UNITED   STATES 


EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


CONTENTS.  vii 

IT-MOUNT  TOFUA— SUBTERRANEAN  STREAMS-GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE  OF  UPOLU 
-STREAMS  OF  LAVA-CAVERNS-SWALLOWS  AT  SANGA— WATERFALLS-GIMBLET 
RELIGION-ATTEMPT  TO  CAPTURE  OPOTUNO— FONO,  OR  COUNCIL  OF  HIGH  CHIEFS- 
ITS  OBJECT— MR.  J.  WILLIAMS  RECOGNISED  AS  CONSUL— REGULATIONS  DISCUSSED 
AND  ADOPTED— DEMAND  FOR  OPOTUNO— FONO  ADJOURNED— ITS  SECOND  MEETING 
—  SPEECH  OF  MALIETOA'S  ORATOR —  REWARD  OFFERED  FOR  THE  APPREHENSION 
OF  OPOTUNO-TERRITORIAL  DIVISIONS  OF  UPOLU— TYRANNY  OF  TAMAFAGO— WAR 
OF  AANA  —  DESOLATION  OF  THAT  DISTRICT  —  ISLAND  OF  MANONO  —  ISLAND  OF 
APOL1MA-PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  PORPOISE  AT  SAVAII— DR.  PICKERING  AND  LIEU- 
TENANT MAURY  LAND  THERE  — SURVEY  OF  THE  COAST  OF  SAVAII  — NATIVE  MIS- 
SIONARY AT  SALACHUA— FELIALUPO— ASAU— BAY  OF  MATAATUA-PECULIARITIES 
OF  ITS  INHABITANTS— SAPAPALE— DR.  PICKERING'S  JOURNEY  IN  THE  INTERIOR  OF 
SAVAII— CURIOSITY  OF  THE  NATIVES— FISHING  ON  THE  CORAL  REEF— DESCRIPTION 
OF  SAVAII— ITS  PEAK— ITS  INTERIOR— ITS  WANT  OF  STREAMS— ITS  CORAL  REEF- 
ITS  SOIL— THE  PORPOISE  PROCEEDS  TO  TUTUILA,  AND  THENCE  TO  UPOLU— RE 
UNION  OF  THE  SQUADRON— REVIEW  OF  THE  MARINES— EARTHQUAKES 85—114 


CHAPTER    V. 

GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION  OF  THE  SAMOAN  GROUP  —  ITS  HARBOURS  — ITS  TIDES  AND 
CURRENTS-ITS  CLIMATE— SIZE  OF  THE  ISLANDS— SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS  OF  THE 
GROUP— ITS  CULTIVATION— ITS  QUADRUPEDS— ITS  BIRDS— ITS  REPTILES— ITS  FISH- 
ITS  PRODUCTS  AVAILABLE  FOR  COMMERCE  —  LANGUAGE  OF  ITS  NATIVES  — THEIR 
DISEASES  —  THEIR  GENERAL  APPEARANCE  —  THEIR  NATIONAL  CHARACTER  — 
LABOURS  OF  THE  MISSIONARIES  — NATIVE  MISSIONARIES  — SELECTION  OF  THEM 
FOR  THE  NEW  HEBRIDES  —  POPULATION  OF  THE  ISLANDS  —  RELIGION  OF  THE 
HEATHEN— THEIR  IDEA  OF  THE  CREATION— OF  A  FUTURE  STATE— THEIR  OMENS— 
THEIR  SUPERSTITION  —  THEIR  DANCES  —  THEIR  MUSICAL  INSTRUMENTS  —  THEIR 
AMUSEMENTS— PAPALANGI  SHIP— THEIR  BIRTHS— THEIR  MARRIAGES  AND  COURT- 
SHIP—THEIR ADOPTION  OF  CHILDREN— THEIR  BURIALS— THEIR  MOURNING— THEIR 
MANNERS  AND  APPEARANCE  — THEIR  DRESS  —  IMPROVEMENTS  IN  THE  ANCIENT 
DRESS— TATTOOING-THEIR  MANUFACTURE  OF  TAPA  AND  MATS-SAMOAN  CANOES 
—BOAT-SONG  —  HOUSES  OF  THE  NATIVES  —  THEIR  LIGHTS  — THEIR  FOOD  — THEIR 
HABITS— THEIR  MALANGAS  — THEIR  PUNISHMENTS  FOR  CRIMES  — THEIR  WARS  — 
THEIR  OLOS— THEIR  PEACE-MAKING-CLASSES  OF  SAMOAN  SOCIETY— ALLOTMENT 
OF  LANDS  — MODE  OF  GOVERNMENT  — DESCENT  OF  CHIEFTAINSHIP  — CEREMONIES 
AT  THE  FONOS 115—154 

CHAPTER    VI. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  SAMOAN  GROUP— WALLIS  ISLAND— DISPOSITION  MADE  OF 
TUVAI  -  CATHOLIC  MISSIONARIES  AT  WALLIS  ISLAND  -  HOORN  ISLAND  -  MAT- 


viii  C  O  N  T  E  N  T  S. 

THEWS'  ROCK— REMARKABLE  THUNDER-STORM—BALL'S  PYRAMID— PORT  JACKSON 
ENTERED— ARRIVAL  AT  SYDNEY— VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOR— FORT  MACdUARIE— 
FATE  OF  REV.  MR.  WILLIAMS  —  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  TOWN  OF  SYDNEY  — ITS 
STREETS  — ITS  RESEMBLANCE  TO  AMERICAN  TOWNS— RELIGIOUS  SECTS— PREVA- 
LENCE OF  INTOXICATION-GOVERNMENT-HOUSE— DRIVE  TO  SOUTH  HEAD-PUBLIC 
GROUNDS— MR.  CUNNINGHAM  THE  BOTANIST— HIS  MELANCHOLY  FATE-COUNTRY 
AROUND  SYDNEY  — THE  NATURALISTS  LEFT  IN  NEW  SOUTH  WALES  — GENERAL 
DESCRIPTION  OF  THAT  COLONY  — ITS  FORESTS  — ITS  GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE  — 
COUNTRY  SOUTHWEST  OF  SYDNEY— LIVERPOOL  MOUNTAINS— COUNTRY  NORTH  OF 
THE  LIVERPOOL  MOUNTAINS  — ILLAWARRA  — DROUGHTS  AND  FLOODS- REMARKS 
OF  MAJOR  MITCHELL— RIVERS  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES— ITS  MINERAL  PRODUCTS- 
ITS  WATER— THE  HEIGHT  OF  ITS  MOUNTAINS— ITS  CLIMATE— ITS  TEMPERATURE- 
PREVAILING  WINDS— ITS  VEGETATION— MONOTONY  OF  ITS  SCENERY— ITS  HORTI- 
CULTURE—NATIVES OF  AUSTRALIA— THEIR  NUMBERS— THEIR  PHYSICAL  TRAITS— 
THEIR  CHARACTER  — THEIR  WANDERING  HABITS  — THEIR  TIMIDITY— THEIR  CON- 
FLICTS—THEIR CORROBORY  DANCES  — ACCOUNT  OF  ONE  OF  THEIR  BATTLES  — 
THEIR  MODE  OF  SETTLING  PRIVATE  QUARRELS— THEIR  WEAPONS-THEIR  MODE 
OF  CLIMBING— THEIR  CANOES— THEIR  SOCIAL  SYSTEM— THEIR  CUSTOM  OF  MAKING 
YOUNG  MEN  — THEIR  MARRIAGES  — BURIAL  OF  THEIR  DEAD  — THEIR  RELIGIOUS 
OPINIONS 155—198 

CHAPTER    VII. 

EXTENT  OF  SEA-COAST  OF  AUSTRALIA— PROGRESS  OF  DISCOVERY— EXTENT  OF  THE 
GOVERNMENT  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES— HISTORY  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES— AUSTRA- 
LIAN LAND  COMPANY— LAND  FUND— POLICY  OF  GOVERNOR  MACQUARIE— CONVICT- 
SHIP—  VALUE  OF  CONVICT  LABOUR —DISPOSITION  OF  CONVICTS  ON  ARRIVAL  — 
ALLOWANCES  TO  CONVICT  SERVANTS— WORKING  OF  THE  ASSIGNMENT  SYSTEM- 
SEPARATION  OF  FEMALE  CONVICTS  FROM  THEIR  CHILDREN— FACTORY  AT  PARA- 
MATTA—ITS DISCIPLINE  — CHILDREN  IN  THE  FACTORY  — IRON-GANGS  — CAPTAIN 
MACONOCHIE'S  SOCIAL  SYSTEM  —  ITS  OPERATION  —  ITS  PARTIAL  ADOPTION  AT 
SYDNEY,  AND  AT  NORFOLK  ISLAND— TWO  DIFFERENT  FORMS  OF  SOCIAL  SYSTEM- 
CONDITION  OF  CONVICTS  AND  SOLDIERS  COMPARED —  TICKET  OF-LEAVE  MEN  — 
DISTINCTIONS  IN  SOCIETY— FREE  EMIGRANTS— LABOURING  CLASS  OF  FREE  EMI- 
GRANTS-CRIMPS—HIGHER CLASS  OF  SOCIETY— GOVERNOR,  HOW  APPOINTED,  AND 
FOR  WHAT  TERM— HIS  POWERS-HIS  SUCCESSOR  IN  CASE  OF  DEATH  OR  ABSENCE- 
LEGISLATIVE  COUNCIL— COLONIAL  RULES  AND  REGULATIONS— EXPENDITURE  AND 
MODE  OF  TAXATION- WORKING  OF  THE  LEGISLATIVE  SYSTEM— STATUTE  OF  NEW 
SOUTH  WALES— DESIRE  FOR  A  NEW  CONSTITUTION— BOUNTY  ON  IMMIGRATION- 
EMIGRATION— MODE  OF  PROCURING  GRANTS  OF  LAND— STATE  OF  CRIME  IN  NEW 
SOUTH  WALES-JUDGE  BURTON'S  CHARGE-HIS  REPORT  ON  THE  JURY  SYSTEM- 
OPINIONS  OF  OTHER  JUDGES  — COURTS  OF  LAW  — EDUCATION  — BISHOPRIC  OF  NEW 
SOUTH  WALES-COLLEGES 199—239 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

JAUNT  TO  PARAMATTA  —  DESCRIPTION  OF  THAT  PLACE— OBSERVATORY— GOVERN- 
MENT-HOUSE AND  FARM— VISIT  OF  NATURALISTS  TO  ILLAWARRA— WOOLONGONG 
-VEGETATION  OF  ILLAWARRA— LAKE  OF  ILLAWARRA-JAUNT  OF  MESSRS.  HALE 
AND  AGATE  TO  HUNTER'S  RIVER— TOWN  OF  NEWCASTLE— COAL  MINES— CONVICT 
MARRIAGES— CONVICT  STOCKADE— NATIVES— JOURNEY  TO  LAKE  MACdUARIE-MR. 
THRELKELD  — MACaUARIE  LAKE  — CONVICT  SERVANTS  — M'GILL,  THE  NATIVE  — 
SHEEP-SHEARING— VISIT  TO  PEUEN  BEUEN— BANKS  OF  HUNTER  RIVER— MR.  KALE'S 
JOURNEY  TO  WELLINGTON  VALLEY— MAIL  CARRIAGE— POST-OFFICE  DEPARTMENT 
— PENRITH— BLUE  MOUNTAINS-MOUNT  VICTORIA— VALLEY  OF  CLWYD— BATHURST 
—LAKES— BUSH-RANGERS— WELLINGTON— NATIVE  CHILDREN— MR.  WATSON— SHEEP- 
SHEARING— PROFITS  OF  SHEEP-FARMS—FLOODS  OF  THE  MACQUARIE— POPULATION 
OF  THE  WEST— NATIVE  LANGUAGES— MR.  PEALE'S  JOURNEY— CLIFTON— CAPTAIN 
M'ARTHUR— HE  INTRODUCES  THE  FINE-WOOL  SHEEP— LIVERPOOL— DAM  IN  COOK'S 
RIVER  — NEPEAN  RIVER  — BIRDS— WALLABIES— STRATHARA— BIRDS-DECREASE  OF 
NATIVE  ANIMALS— VISIT  TO  NEWINGTON— SALT-WORKS— PREVALENCE  OF  SALT  IN 
AUSTRALIA— DECREASE  OF  LAKES— ANCIENT  FLOODS— DESCRIPTION  OF  FISSURES— 
EARTHQUAKES-BURNING  MOUNTAIN— TRADE  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES-FISHERIES 
—BANKS— EXPORTS— DEPOTS  FOR  GRAIN— COLONY  AT  SWAN  RIVER-SOUTH  AUS- 
TRALIA—FETE AT  FORT  MACQUARIE  —  SURPRISE  OF  THE  COLONISTS  AT  OUR 
WANT  OF  PREPARATION— STATE  OF  THE  PEACOCK— ARRIVAL  OF  H.  B.  M.  SHIP 
DRUID  — SEASON  OF  OUR  VISIT  —  FACILITIES  FOR  OUTFITS  AT  SYDNEY  — KINDNESS 
AND  HOSPITALITY  OF  CITIZENS— CHRISTMAS  DINNER— DEPARTURE  OF  THE  SQU AD- 
RON—  DESERTERS  FOUND  ON  BOARD 241—277 


CHAPTER    IX. 

PRELIMINARY  REMARKS  —  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  SQUADRON  TO  THE  SECOND  OF 
JANUARY— SEPARATION  OF  THE  FLYING-FISH  AND  PEACOCK— FIRST  ICEBERG  SEEN 
—  FALL  IN  WITH  THE  ICY  BARRIER  —  PORPOISE  LOST  SIGHT  OF  —  PROCEEDINGS  OF 
THE  PEACOCK  FROM  THE  THIRD  OF  JANUARY  —  HER  VISIT  TO  MACQUARIE'S 
ISLAND  — FIRST  ICEBERG  SEEN  BY  HER  —  SHE  FALLS  IN  WITH  THE  ICY  BARRIER  — 
PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  PORPOISE— SEA-ELEPHANTS  SEEN  AND  TAKEN— LAND  SEEN 
FROM  ALL  THE  VESSELS  —  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  VINCENNES  FROM  THE  SIX- 
TEENTH OF  JANUARY— SHE*  ENTERS  A  DEEP  BAY  IN  THE  BARRIER— PEACOCK  AND 
PORPOISE  SEEN  —  PEACOCK  SPOKEN  —  LAND  DISTINCTLY  SEEN  FROM  THE  VIN- 
CENNES AND  PEACOCK— FIGHT  BETWEEN  A  WHALE  AND  KILLER,  SEEN  FROM  THE 
PEACOCK  —  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  PEACOCK  — SOUNDINGS  OBTAINED  BY  HER -HER 
PERILOUS  SITUATION  AND  PROVIDENTIAL  ESCAPE  — HER  CRIPPLED  CONDITION  — 
VOL.  IT.  B 


C  C  O  N  T  E  N  T  S. 

CAPTAIN   HUDSON   RESOLVE?  TO   RETURN— HIS   ADMIRABLE    CONDUCT,    AND  THAT 
OK  HIS  OFFICERS  AND  CREW...  ...279—306 


CHAPTER    X. 

PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  VINCENNES  FROM  THE  TWENTY  SECOND  OF  JANUARY— DIS- 
APPOINTMENT BAY— WATERING  ON  THE  ICE— DIAGRAMS  OF  THE  ICE  ISLANDS— 
THEIR  UTILITY  —  VIOLENT  GALE  AND  SNOW-STORM  —  NARROW  ESCAPE  FROM 
STRIKING  THE  ICE  —  THE  OPEN  SEA  REACHED  —  RETURN  OF  FINE  WEATHER  — 
VINCENNES  STANDS  AGAIN  TO  THE  SOUTH,  AND  REACHES  THE  ICY  BARRIER— 
PINER'S  BAY  —  SOUNDINGS  IN  THIRTY  FATHOMS  —  ANOTHER  VIOLENT  GALE — 
REPORT  OF  THE  MEDICAL  OFFICERS-OPINION  OF  THE  WARD  ROOM  OFFICERS- 
DETERMINATION  TO  PROCEED  WITH  THE  CRUISE— ITS  EVENTS  UP  TO  THE  FOUR- 
TEENTH OF  FEBRUARY  — LANDING  ON  AN  ICEBERG  —  SPECIMENS  OF  ROCKS  OB- 
TAINED—INQUIRY IN  RELATION  TO  THE  FORMATION  OF  ICEBERGS— THEIR  SEPARA- 
T1ON  FROM  THE  LAND  — THEIR  PROGRESS  — FURTHER  EVIDENCE  IN  RELATION  TO 
THE  ANTARCTIC  CONTINENT  -  ESTIMATE  OF  THE  RATE  AT  WHICH  THE  FLOAT- 
ING ICE  MOVES— THE  VINCENNES  BEGINS  HER  RETURN  TO  THE  NORTH 307—338 

CHAPTER    XL 

PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  PORPOISE  FROM  THE  TWENTY  SECOND  TO  THE  THIRTIETH  OF 
JANUARY— FRENCH  SQUADRON  SEEN— ITS  COMMANDER  REFUSES  TO  SPEAK  THE 
PORPOISE— PROCEEDINGS  UP  TO  THE  THIRD  OF  FEBRUARY  —  GALE— FURTHER 
PROCEEDINGS  TO  THE  TWELFTH  OF  FEBRUARY— SPECIMENS  OF  ROCK  OBTAINED— 
WESTERN  LIMIT  OF  HER  CRUISE— RETURN  TO  THE  EASTWARD— PORPOISE  STANDS 
TO  THE  NORTHWARD  — AUCKLAND  ISLANDS  —  PORPOISE  ARRIVES  AT  THE  BAY  OF 
INLANDS— CRUISE  OF  THE  FLYING-FISH—LANDING  AT  MACQUARIE'S  ISLAND— PRO- 
CEEDINGS OK  THE  FLYING  FISH  UP  TO  THE  FOURTH  OF  FEBRUARY  —  STATE  OF 
HER  CREW— THEIR  LETTER  TO  LIEUTENANT  PINKNEY— HE  RESOLVES  TO  RETURN 
—ARRIVAL  OK  THE  FLYING  FISH  AT  THE  BAY  OK  ISLANDS— EVENTS  DURING  THE 
RETURN  OF  THE  VINCENNES  —  SHE  FAILS  TO  REACH  VAN  DIEMEN'S  LAND  — AR- 
RIVAL OF  THE  VINCENNES  AT  SYDNEY— PEACOCK  FOUND  THERE— RETURN  OF  THE 
PEACOCK  FROM  THE  ICY  BARRIER  —  SHE  MAKES  MACQUARIE'S  ISLAND  —  SHE 
ARRIVES  AT  SYDNEY  —  STATE  OF  THE  PEACOCK  —  HOSPITALITIES  RECEIVED  AT 
SYDNEY 339—365 

CHAPTER    XII. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  SYDNEY— PASSAGE  TO  NEW  ZEALAND-ARRIVAL  AT  THE  BAY  OP 
ISLANDS-MEETING  WITH  THE  SCIENTIFIC  CORPS-THEIR  PASSAGE  FROM  SYDNEY 
—BAY  OK  ISLANDS -RIVERS  WHICH  FALL  INTO  IT  —  FACE  OF  THE  COUNTRY  — 


CONTENTS.  xi 

ACTIVE  VOLCANO— HOT  SPRING  OF  TAIAIMI— CRATER  OF  POERUA— DR.  PICKERING'S 
VISIT  TO  HOKIANGA  — MISSIONARY  ESTABLISHMENT  AT  PAHIA  — KORORARIKA  — 
ENGLISH  POLICE  MAGISTRATE  AND  ACTING  GOVERNOR  — TREATY  OF  CESSION  TO 
ENGLAND-CONDUCT  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONSUL— INSTALLATION  OF  THE  LIEU- 
TENANT-GOVERNOR—OPINION OF  THE  CHIEFS  IN  RELATION  TO  THE  TREATY  — 
ARRIVAL  OF  ENGLISH  REVENUE  OFFICERS  — LAND  CLAIMS  —  BURDENSOME  TAXES 
AND  TARIFF— THEIR  EFFECT  ON  AMERICAN  COMMERCE-EXPENSE  OF  THE  NEW 
GOVERNMENT  —  CASE  OF  JOHN  SAC  —  HIS  LETTER  TO  MR.  WALDRON  —  FURTHER 
REMARKS  ON  THE  TREATY  OF  CESSION  —  VIOLENT  GALE  —  ITS  EXTENT  AND 
ROTARY  CHARACTER  — FOREIGN  RESIDENTS  — HIGH  PRICE  OF  LAND  — MISSIONS- 
TABOO— PAS,  OR  FORTIFIED  TOWNS— DWELLINGS-TOMB-DRESS  OF  THE  NATIVES 
—THEIR  STOREHOUSES  —  THEIR  FOOD  —  THEIR  ARMS  AND  ORNAMENTS  —  KING 
POMARE— MAUPARAWA— CHARLEY  POMARE— POMARE'S  WARS-CEREMONY  OF  HIS 
RETURN-HIS  MEANNESS— POPULATION  OF  NEW  ZEALAND— VISIT  TO  WANGARARA 
—POLITENESS  OF  KO-TOWATOW A— WANGARARA  BAY— CHARACTER  OF  THE  NEW 
ZEALANDERS  —  THEIR  PERSONAL  APPEARANCE  —  TRADITION  IN  RELATION  TO 
THEIR  ORIGIN -TATTOOED  HEADS— CANNIBALISM— CONDITION  AND  PROSPECTS  OF 
THE  NATIVES— NATIVE  DANCES— MUSIC— CHATHAM  ISLAND— CHART  OF  THE  BAY 
OF  ISLANDS— MR.  COUTHOUY'S  PASSAGE  FROM  SYDNEY— HIS  ACCOUNT  OF  MOUNT 
EGMONT— OF  PORT  COOPER— WARS  OF  ROBOLUA— PORT  LEVY— KORAKIBARURU— 
PIGLON  BAY  — CAPE  CAMPBELL  AND  SNOWY  PEAKS  — CLOUDY  BAY— ROBOLUA  — 
HABITS  OF  THE  NATIVES,  AND  PREVAILING  WINDS  AT  CLOUDY  BAY  — CLIMATE 
OF  NEW  ZEALAND  — DISEASES  — SOIL  — CULTIVATION— VEGETABLE  PRODUCTIONS- 
TIMBER— CANOES-QUADRUPEDS— BIRDS— COMMERCE 367—414 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


VOLUME  II. 

PLATES. 

PORTRAIT  OF  COMMANDER  WM.  L.  HUDSON,  U.  S.  N.     Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  TITLE 

BROOM  ROAD.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  W.  H.  Dougal,  31 

EMMA.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  87 

MALIETOA.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  117 

SAMOAN  DANCE.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  Alfred  Jones,  134 

SYDNEY.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  Rawdon,  Wright  and  Hatch,  157 
CORROBORY  DANCE.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  E.  G.  Dunnel,  188 

FOREST,  ILLAWARRA.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  J.  A.  Rolph,  241 

PEACOCK  IN  CONTACT  WITH  THE  ICE.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  M.  Osborne,  302 

VINCENNES  IN  DISAPPOINTMENT  BAY.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  C.  A.  Jewett,  310 

ANTARCTIC  CONTINENT.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  325 

VIEW  IN  NEW  ZEALAND.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  G.  H.  Cushman,  369 

NEW  ZEALAND  TOMB.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  387 

KO-TOWATOWA.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  V.  Balch,  396 

(•an 


XIV 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


SWINGING,  TAHITI. 

FISHERY,  TAHITI. 

EIMEO. 

HARBOUR  OF  PAGO-PAGO. 

APOLIMA. 
PAPALANGI  SHIP. 
ACROSTICHUM  GRANDE. 
SETTLER'S  COTTAGE. 
VlNCENNES  IN  A  STORM. 
AURORA  AUSTRALIS. 
PORPOISE  IN  A  GALE. 
AURORA  AUSTRALIS. 
NEW  ZEALAND  PA. 
POMARE'S  HOUSE. 


VIGNETTES. 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  T.  House,  8 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  A.  C.  Warren,  43 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  Smillie  and  Hinchelwood,  56 

Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  V.  Balch,  71 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  E.  Hobart,  107 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  J.  A.  Rolph,  137 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  J.  A.  Rolph,  181 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  W.  H.  Ellis,  261 

Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  314 

Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  W.  H.  Dougal,  322 

Sketched  by  G.  M.  Totten,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  N.  Gimbrede,  346 

Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N. 

Engraved  by  W.  H.  Dougal,  360 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  A.  W.  Graham,  379 

Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Engraved  by  W.  E.  Tucker,  386 


WOOD-CUTS. 

PAOFAI.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler, 

COMMON  TAHITIAN  CANOE.     Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 
NATIVE  HOUSE,  TAHITI.     Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.t     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 
TAHITIAN   GIRL   WITH  THE  HAU.     Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  R.  H. 
Pease, 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.t     Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler, 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Sketched  by  T.  R.  Peale. 


MALE  COSTUME. 

Music. 

TRADING  CANOE. 

BEATING  TAPA. 

Music. 

NAVIGATOR  CLUBS,  &c. 

FANS,  BASKETS,  &c. 

OHWA  TREE. 


Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease. 
Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler, 


11 
21 
22 

23 

24 

25 

36 

60 

77 

83 

114 

120 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


XV 


Music. 

Music. 

DEVIL  MAN. 

SAMOAN  GIRL. 

TATTOOING. 

SAMOAN  CANOE. 

Music. 

SAMOAN  HOUSE. 

SAMOAN  PET  PIGEON. 

NATIVE  HUT,  N.  S.  W. 

NATIVE  OF  AUSTRALIA. 

Music. 

Music. 


Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.t 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.t 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton. 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.t     Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 
Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.t     Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler, 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.t     Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly, 
Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 


Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert, 
Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert, 
Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 
Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease, 


134 
135 
139 
140 
141 
143 
145 
146 
154 
185 
186 
189 
190 


Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton, 
NATIVE  THROWING  THE  BOOMERENG.    Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.t    Engraved  by  R.  S. 

Gilbert,  192 

FLIGHT  OF  THE  BOOMERENG.     Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.     Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert,       198 
NATIVE  WEAPONS  AND  SHIELD.     Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.    Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  238 


M'GlLL. 

NEW  HOLLAND  BOY. 
DAISY  BANK. 
MACO.UARIE  ISLAND. 
LAND  AND  FIELD-!CE. 
PEACOCK  BAY. 
ICEBERG. 


Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert,  254 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler,  254 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  277 

Sketched  by  F.  D.  Stuart.     Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler,  287 

Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler,  294 
Sketched  by  F.  D.  StuarU  Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert,  304 
Sketched  by  G.  M.  Totten,  U.  S.  N.t  Engraved  by  R.  H. 

Pease,  306 

DIAGRAM.  Sketched  by  J.  A.  Underwood,  U.  S.  N.     Engraved  by  R.  S. 

Gilbert,  311 

TABULAR  ICEBERG.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.     Engraved  by  B.  F.  Childs,  330 

INCLINED  ICEBERG.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.     Engraved  by  B.  F.  Childs,  331 

ICEBERG.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.     Engraved  by  B.  F.  Childs,  332 

ICE-ISLAND.  Sketched  by  G.  M.  Totten,  U.  S.  N.     Engraved  by  B.  F. 

Childs,  338 

AUCKLAND  ISLES.  Sketched   by   G.   M.   Totten,   U.  S.   N.     Engraved  by  R. 

O'Brien,  351 

ICEBERG.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.     Engraved  by  B.  F.  Childs,  365 

NEW  ZEALAND  CARVING.     Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  385 

WOMAN  AND  CHILD,  N.  Z.     Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler,          388 
NEW  ZEALAND  GIRL.        Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.     Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler,  395 

NEW  ZEALAND  IHU  AND  WEAPONS.    Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.t    Engraved  by  R.  H. 

Pease,  414 


MAPS. 

TAHITI.  Engraved  by  Sherman  and  Smith, 

SAMOAN  GROUP.  Engraved  by  Sherman  and  Smith, 

AUSTRALIA  AND  NEW  SOUTH  WALES.     Engraved  by  E.  Tappan, 


39 

63 

201 


Those  marked  with  a  t,  were  drawn  on  the  wood  by  J.  H.  Manning ;  those  marked 
with  a  t,  by  W.  G.  Armstrong.     Those  not  marked,  by  the  Artists  of  the  Expedition. 


CHAPTER  I. 


CONTENTS. 

GENERAL  ASPECT  OF  TAHITI— ARRIVAL  AND  RECEPTION— GENERAL  FIGURE  OF  THE 
ISLAND-ITS  GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE— OVERHAUL  OF  THE  VESSELS— AN  OBSERVA- 
TORY ESTABLISHED— SURVEY  OF  HARBOURS— LONGITUDE  OF  POINT  VENUS— HEIGHT 
OF  MOUNTAINS- VISITERS— TAUA,  THE  GOVERNOR  OF  MATAVAI— HIS  HOSPITALITY- 
CHURCH  AT  MATAVAI— CONCOURSE  OF  NATIVES— CHARACTER  OF  THE  NATIVES  — 
SCHOOL  AT  PAPIETI— ADDRESS  TO  THE  SCHOLARS  — REPLY  OF  PAOFAI— GENERAL 
DIFFUSION  OF  EDUCATION— COMPLAINTS  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONSUL— COUNCIL  OF 
THE  CHIEFS-INFLUENCE  OF  THE  MISSIONARIES-CHARACTER  OF  A  PART  OF  THE 
FOREIGN  RESIDENTS— CHANGE  OF  THE  NATIONAL  DRESS— GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE 
LABOURS  OF  THE  MISSIONARIES  —  IMPROVEMENT  IN  THE  NATIVE  CHARACTER  — 
CAUSES  OF  WANT  OF  INDUSTRY— CONSTITUTION  OF  TAHITI— COURTS  OF  JUSTICE— 
QUEEN  AND  ROYAL  FAMILY— JUDGES  OF  THE  SUPREME  COURT— STATE  OF  PARTIES 
—CASE  OF  THE  CATHOLIC  PRIESTS— DWELLINGS  OF  THE  NATIVES— APPEARANCE  OF 
THE  FEMALES-DRESS  OF  THE  TWO  SEXES— TASTE  OF  THE  NATIVES  FOR  FLOWERS 
—COOKERY  AND  MODE  OF  EATING— MUSIC  OF  THE  ISLANDERS— THEIR  DANCES  — 
EXPEDITION  TO  LAKE  WAIHEREA  — ABORTIVE  ATTEMPT  TO  ASCEND  OROHENA  — 
DESCENT  TO  THE  COAST— RETURN  ALONG  THE  SOUTHERN  AND  WESTERN  COAST  TO 
PAPIETI-NAVAL  ARCHITECTURE  AND  FOREIGN  TRADE. 


(1) 


NARRATIVE 


OF 


THE  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  I. 

TAHITI. 

1839. 

THE  beauty  of  the  distant  view  of  Tahiti  has  been  celebrated  by 
all  navigators,  but  I  must  confess  that  it  disappointed  me.  The  entire 
outline  of  the  island  was  visible  for  too  short  a  time  and  at  too  great  a 
distance  to  permit  its  boasted  features  to  be  distinctly  seen.  Upon  a 
second  and  nearer  view,  its  jagged  peaks  and  rugged  inaccessible 
mountains  were  visible,  but  we  looked  in  vain  for  the  verdant  groves 
which  are  said  by  all  writers  to  clothe  it.  These  indeed  exist,  but  are 
confined  to  a  narrow  belt  of  low  land,  lying  between  the  mountains 
and  the  shore,  and  being  unseen  at  a  distance,  the  general  aspect  of 
the  island  is  that  of  a  land  recently  thrown  up  by  volcanic  action. 

When,  however,  Tahiti  is  approached  so  near  as  to  make  separate 
objects  visible,  the  contrast  between  it  and  the  barren  coast  of  Peru 
becomes  striking.  Even  upon  the  steep  surface  of  its  cliffs,  vegetation 
abounds ;  the  belt  of  low  land  is  covered  with  the  tropical  trees  pecu- 
liar to  Polynesia;  while  the  high  peaks  and  wall-faced  mountains  in 
the  rear  are  covered  with  vines  and  creeping  plants.  This  verdure  is 
seen  to  rise  from  a  quiet  girdle  of  water,  which  is  again  surrounded 
by  a  line  of  breakers,  dashing  in  snow-white  foam  on  the  encircling 

(3) 


4  T  A  H  IT  I. 

reefs  of  coral.  Such  objects  are  sufficient  to  form  a  beautiful  land- 
scape, and  my  disappointment  probably  arose  in  part  from  finding 
every  thing  more  diminutive  than  I  had  been  led  to  imagine  from  the 
highly-wrought  descriptions  I  had  been  perusing  only  a  few  days 
before. 

We  were  surrounded,  even  before  we  anchored,  by  canoes  of  all 
shapes  and  sizes,  whose  crews  made  a  prodigious  clamour.  I  at  once 
interdicted  any  one  who  was  not  a  chief  from  coming  on  board ;  but 
upon  this  being  announced,  every  one  claimed  to  be  a  chief  of  some 
description  or  other.  Only  the  great  chiefs,  therefore,  were  admitted. 
These  came  oft"  in  whale-boats,  which  are  now  superseding  the  canoe, 
and  brought  with  them  trifling  presents  of  fruit.  It  was  soon  found 
that  their  errand  was  not  one  of  mere  ceremony,  but  was  intended  to 
solicit  the  washing  of  our  dirty  linen,  a  business  which  is  among  the 
prerogatives  of  the  queen  and  chiefs.  I  was  informed  that  the  queen, 
being  enceinte,  was  residing  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  island,  which 
would  prevent  her  from  paying  us  a  visit.  I  was,  therefore,  at  liberty 
to  choose  a  less  distinguished  laundress,  and  spared  the  pain  of  resisting 
her  royal  solicitations  for  soap,  an  article  much  needed  and  in  great 
request  at  Tahiti. 

I  was  glad  when  the  night  closed  in,  to  be  rid  of  our  numerous 
visitors.  The  pilot,  who  goes  by  the  name  of  "  English  Jim,"  was 
equally  so,  for  he  chose  to  be  considered  as  the  only  privileged  person, 
and,  besides,  was  looking  somewhat  to  his  own  profit  in  the  line  of 
clothes-washing,  a  business  which  the  presence  of  the  chiefs  threatened 
to  interfere  with.  Jim  is  quite  a  respectable-looking  man,  dresses  in 
the  European  fashion,  and  speaks  English,  which  he  has  acquired  on 
board  of  whale-ships,  tolerably  well.  Although  a  good  pilot,  so  far  as 
a  knowledge  of  the  shoals  goes,  he  does  not  understand  what  to  do 
with  a  vessel,  in  case  of  difficulty.  He  told  me  that  he  had  been 
looking  out  for  vessels  for  some  days,  for  it  had  thundered. 

Although  the  shape  and  extent  of  Tahiti  are  well  known,  I  venture 
to  give  a  map  of  it,  which  has  been  made  as  correct  as  our  opportu- 
nities would  permit.  The  twro  peninsulas,  if  they  may  be  so  termed, 
of  which  it  is  made  up,  are  of  very  different  characters.  The  smaller 
one,  called  Tairaboo,  and  usually  spoken  of  as  "  the  small  island,"  is 
said  to  be  the  most  fertile:  it  possesses  some  harbours,  but  they  are 
little  better  known  than  they  were  half  a  century  ago.  Both  peninsulas 
possess  twenty-four  harbours,  including  the  good  and  bad.  Tahiti 
proper  contains  the  best,  and  therefore  engrosses  all  the  commerce.  It 
has  in  consequence  been  for  many  years  the  seat  of  government. 

The  whole  island  is  of  volcanic  formation,  but  there  is  no  longer 


TAHITI.  5 

any  active  igneous  action,  nor  is  there  any  well-defined  crater  to  be 
seen.  Coral  reefs,  with  occasional  openings,  are  attached  to  the 
shores,  and  the  larger  island  (Tahiti)  has  also  a  sea  reef.  Between  the 
two  reefs  is  an  almost  continuous  channel  for  boat  navigation,  and  on 
the  northern  side  they  enclose  many  safe  and  commodious  harbours 
for  shipping.  On  this  side  also  vessels  may  pass  from  harbour 
to  harbour,  within  the  outer  reef.  This  reef  varies  in  breadth  from 
a  few  yards  to  fifty,  or  even  a  hundred.  The  shore  that  adjoins 
the  coral  reef  is  formed  of  black  volcanic  sand,  occasionally  mixed 
with  comminuted  shells,  which  give  it  a  grayish  hue.  Basaltic  ridges 
reach  the  sea  at  intervals,  and  form  projecting  points  of  moderate 
elevation. 

We  began  without  delay  to  overhaul  the  vessels,  and  the  few  sick 
persons  we  had  on  board  were  sent  on  shore  to  a  shed  hired  for  the 
purpose  on  Point  Venus. 

An  observatory  was  established  at  the  same  place,  and  furnished 
with  both  astronomic  and  magnetic  instruments ;  and  as  soon  as  the 
repairs  of  the  vessels  had  made  such  progress  as  to  permit  it,  parties 
were  formed  for  the  survey  of  the  four  principal  harbours  and  the 
channels  between  them.  These  harbours,  Matavai,  Papaoa,  Toanoa, 
and  Papieti,  are  so  important  to  the  many  whale-ships  which  visit  this 
island,  that  I  felt  it  an  imperative  duty  to  obtain  accurate  charts  of 
them  all.  At  the  same  time,  a  large  party  of  officers  and  naturalists 
was  ordered  to  cross  the  island,  1o  reach,  if  possible,  Orohena,  one  of 
the  highest  peaks,  and  to  visit  Lake  Waiherea. 

I  had  been  in  hopes  of  obtaining  a  full  series  of  moon  culminating 
stars  on  Point  Venus  ;  but  I  was  disappointed,  for  it  rained  almost 
every  night.  I  was,  therefore,  compelled  to  rely  for  the  longitude  on 
the  chronometers  alone,  and  restricted  even  in  that  method  to  observa- 
tions of  the  sun.  I  was,  however,  well  pleased  to  find  that  my  results 
differed  from  the  best  preceding  authorities  no  more  than  1'  33"  of 
space.  These  authorities  give  149°  29'  43"  W.,  for  the  longitude  of 
Point  Venus. 

The  mountains  were  obscured  by  clouds  during  the  whole  time  of 
my  stay,  and  no  angles  could  be  taken  for  the  measurement  of  their 
heights,  nor  could  the  party  I  detached  for  the  purpose  reach  their 
summits;  but  the  Peacock  remained  for  some  days  after  my  departure, 
and  Captain  Hudson,  with  his  officers,  succeeded  in  measuring  the 
height  of  Aorai,  the  peak  which  is  next  in  height  to  Orohena.  This 
he  found  to  be  six  thousand  nine  hundred  and  seventy-nine  feet ;  and 
as  Orohena  appeared  to  be  about  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet 
higher,  the  height  of  the  latter  peak  may  be  set  down  as  about  eight 


6  T  A  H  I  T  I. 

thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  these  two 
peaks,  ridges  diverge  to  all  parts  of  the  coast,  throwing  off  spurs  as 
they  descend.  These  ridges  are  precipitous,  and  for  the  most  part 
narrow.  In  many  instances  their  summit  is  a  mere  edge,  making 
walking  upon  them  not  only  dangerous,  but  often  impossible. 

Soon  after  my  arrival,  I  was  visited  by  S.  R.  Blackler,  Esq.,  our 
consul,  who  resides  at  Papieti,  distant  eight  miles  from  Matavai.  The 
resident  missionaries,  with  Mr.  Pritchard,  Her  Britannic  Majesty's 
acting  consul,  and  Mr.  Morenhout,  the  French  consul,  also  favoured 
me  with  a  visit,  as  did  several  other  persons,  who  all  expressed  their 
desire  of  being  serviceable  to  us. 

The  governor  of  the  district  of  Matavai,  Taua,  was  the  first  ac- 
quaintance of  any  distinction  that  we  made.  He  had  already  visited 
the  Vincenncs  on  her  anchoring.  He  is  a  fine-looking  man,  of  huge 
proportions,  and  has  a  large  establishment  near  Point  Venus,  where  he 
monopolized  nearly  all  the  washing,  which  was  performed  by  his 
numerous  dependants.  By  this  business  he  derives  some  remuneration 
for  the  cost  of  feeding  and  clothing  them,  putting  the  gains  of  their 
labour  into  his  own  pocket.  Such,  at  least,  is  his  own  account  of  the 
transaction. 

Taua's  usual  dress  was  a  striped  cotton  shirt,  nankeen  pantaloons 
that  had  once  been  yellow,  and  a  round  jacket  of  blue  cloth.  Both 
shirt  and  pantaloons  were  too  tight,  and  he  had  neither  suspenders 
nor  stockings,  although  he  wore  shoes.  In  this  guise  he  had  an 
awkward  look,  which  he  probably  would  not  have  exhibited  in  a 
native  costume. 

He  was  profuse  in  offers  of  hospitality  at  his  own  house,  and  many 
of  the  officers  were  induced  to  accept  his  invitations.  His  entertain- 
ments appear  to  have  been  of  the  same  general  character  with  that  to 
which  I  was  treated,  and  which  will,  therefore,  serve  as  a  specimen  of 
the  mode  in  which  such  things  are  done  by  the  "  good  society"  of 
Tahiti. 

We  reached  his  dwelling  in  time  to  sec  the  preparations  for  the 
feast.  These  were  entrusted  to  his  man  of  all  work,  Stephen,  or  as  he 
called  him,  "  Stiih'n."  This  useful  personage  exhibited  his  dexterity, 
not  only  in  cooking,  but  in  killing  the  poultry.  The  bird  selected  was 
a  cock,  for  the  Tahitians  well  understand  the  difference  in  value 
between  it  and  the  hens  ;  and  Stephen  exhibited  much  adroitness  in 
the  slaying,  plucking,  and  dressing.  While  this  was  going  on,  the 
stones  for  the  Tahitian  oven,  so  often  described  by  voyagers,  were 
heating,  and  when  they  had  acquired  the  proper  temperature,  the  ashes 
were  carefully  swept  ofi", — bread-fruit,  taro,  and  plantains,  wrapped  in 


TAHITI.  7 

leaves,  were  then  laid  on  the  stones,  with  the  fowl  in  the  centre,  and 
the  whole  covered  up.  In  about  an  hour  the  oven  was  carefully 
opened,  the  contents  exposed,  and  found  to  be  thoroughly  cooked. 
The  dinner  was  then  served  in  an  earthen  dish,  with  a  knife  and  fork, 
when,  although  the  fowl  was  somewhat  tough,  it  was  greatly  relished. 
The  dinner  hour  was  one  o'clock. 

Taua,  according  to  the  universal  opinion  of  the  squadron,  did  not 
improve  upon  a  closer  acquaintance.  His  intrusive  and  greedy  dis- 
position, not  to  mention  his  fondness  for  the  bottle,  rendered  him  daily 
a  less  welcome  visiter  than  at  first.  I  must,  however,  do  him  the 
justice  to  say,  that  if  he  were  wanting  in  other  traits  of  character  that 
ought  to  distinguish  a  chief,  he  did  the  honours  of  his  house  admirably, 
and  that  he  must  be  seen  in  the  capacity  of  a  host,  if  a  favourable 
opinion  is  to  be  formed  of  his  character. 

On  the  invitation  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Wilson,  I  visited  him  at  the 
mission-house,  and  was  kindly  received.  This  gentleman  is  seventy- 
two  years  of  age,  and  is  the  oldest  missionary  on  the  island.  In  spite 
of  his  advanced  age,  he  still  performs  all  the  duties  of  his  cure.  The 
church  and  the  parsonage  are  both  frame  houses.  The  former,  which 
is  neatly  built,  is  capable  of  containing  a  large  congregation.  The 
Sabbath  occurred  on  Saturday,  by  our  reckoning,  and  all  labour  was 
suspended.  I  thought  the  attendance  on  worship  small,  compared  with 
what  I  had  been  led  to  anticipate.  There  were  less  than  two  hundred 
persons  present,  and  they  did  not  appear  to  be  as  attentive  as  they  had 
been  represented.  The  women  were  more  numerous  than  the  other 
sex,  and  were  dressed  in  a  most  unbecoming  manner.  They  wore 
high  flaring  chip  bonnets  of  their  own  manufacture,  loose  gay-coloured 
silk  frocks,  with  showy  kerchiefs  tied  around  their  necks.  Nothing 
can  appear  more  outre  than  they  do  in  these  habiliments,  and  I  was  at 
a  loss  to  conceive  how  they  could,  in  particular,  have  been  induced  to 
adopt  a  covering  for  the  head,  which  affords  no  protection  from  the 
sun,  and  is  in  consequence  so  ill-adapted  to  the  climate. 

On  Sunday,  15th  September,  as  many  of  the  officers  and  crews  as 
could  be  spared  from  the  vessels,  attended  divine  service  in  the  Mission 
church.  Our  chaplain  performed  the  service,  with  the  aid  of  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Pratt.  This  exercise  attracted  great  crowds  of  the  natives,  of 
whom  an  unusual  number  had  collected  at  Matavai.  They  flock, 
on  the  arrival  of  vessels,  and  particularly  of  ships  of  war,  to  the 
port  in  which  they  lie,  partly  from  curiosity  and  a  desire  of  amuse- 
ment, but  more  from  a  hope  of  gain.  A  Tahitian  changes  his  residence 
without  difficulty  or  inconvenience ;  food  is  every  where  to  be  had  in 
abundance,  and  lodgings  never  enter  into  his  calculation.  While  the 


8  TAHITI. 

squadron  was  at  Matavai  Bay,  the  number  of  those  who  appeared  to 
inhabit  ils  shores  would  have  given  a  very  erroneous  estimate  of  the 
usual  population.  They  were  assembled  from  every  part  of  the  island, 
and  the  right  of  occupying  each  spare  nook  in  the  houses  of  the  per- 
manent settlers,  seems  to  be  universally  admitted.  When  this  resource 
fails,  they  are  to  be  seen  beneath  trees,  or  upon  the  beach,  within  a 
few  feet  of  the  water's  edge,  sleeping  as  soundly,  although  without  any 
covering,  as  if  they  were  beneath  their  own  roofs. 

Saturday  is  a  holiday,  and  on  it  the  children  may  be  seen  engaged 
in  innocent  plays  and  amusements,  among  which  is  swinging  with  a 
single  rope  from  a  tall  cocoa-nut  tree.  This  pastime  is  picturesque, 
and  in  good  keeping  with  the  landscape. 


This  people  exhibits  great  curiosity,  but  does  not  manifest  it  by 
intrusive  inquisitiveness.  In  our  whole  intercourse  with  them,  we 
did  not  hear  of  a  single  act  of  theft,  although  there  were  innumerable 
opportunities  for  its  commission,  without  the  possibility  of  immediate 
detection.  They  seemed  always  in  a  good  humour,  gay,  happy,  and 
cheerful ;  nor  did  I  witness  a  single  quarrel  among  all  the  crowds  that 


TAHITI.  9 

were  assembled  at  Point  Venus,  during  our  stay.     They  are,  however, 
inveterate  beggars. 

At  the  invitation  of  Mr.  Pritchard,  I  visited  the  school  under  his 
direction  at  Papieti.  This  gentleman  was,  a  few  years  since,  a 
missionary,  but  now  holds  the  station  of  Her  Britannic  Majesty's 
Consul.  He  has  not,  however,  abandoned  all  his  missionary  duties. 
We  were  also  invited  to  visit  the  school  at  Matavai  Bay,  under  the 
direction  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Wilson.  There  was  so  much  similarity  in 
the  two  schools,  that  I  shall  content  myself  with  a  description  of  the 
former,  and  a  circumstance  or  two  that  occurred  at  the  latter. 

The  school  at  Papieti  is  held  in  the  church,  a  large  frame  building, 
much  like  a  New  England  meeting-house.  It  has  numerous  windows, 
a  large  gallery,  and  pews  capable  of  containing  a  great  number  of 
people.  All  who  were  present  were  well  dressed,  and  the  assemblage, 
except  from  the  colour  of  their  skins,  could  have  been,  with  difficulty, 
distinguished  from  a  Sunday  school  in  the  United  States. 

The  exercises  were  opened  with  prayer.  The  children  then  sang  the 
ABC  song,  and  went  through  the  a-b  ab,  at  the  word  of  command 
from  Mr.  Pritchard.  To  this  succeeded  an  examination  of  the  larger 
children,  and  an  exhibition  of  some  of  their  performances.  The  number 
of  scholars  was  from  three  hundred  and  fifty  to  four  hundred,  between 
eight  and  sixteen  years  of  age.  A  large  proportion  of  them  read,  sang, 
and  wrote  on  a  slate,  manifesting  a  fair  proficiency  in  each,  and 
answered  intelligently  the  questions  that  were  put  to  them. 

To  test  the  character  of  the  instruction  given  in  this  school,  I  felt 
desirous  of  putting  some  questions  on  subjects  foreign  to  the  ordinary 
routine,  and  particularly  in  relation  to  natural  phenomena.  For  this 
purpose  I  called  the  attention  of  the  schojars  to  the  eclipse  of  the  sun 
which  had  happened  a  few  days  before.  This  was  received  with  a 
variety  of  expression  of  countenance  by  different  scholars,  but  among 
them  I  could  only  remark  stupid  wonder,  indifference,  or  listlessness, 
which  showed  too  clearly  that  no  attempt  had  been  made  to  awaken 
their  attention  to  such  subjects. 

When  the  examination  was  concluded,  I  made  a  trifling  present  to 
the  native  teachers  in  the  name  of  the  American  government,  and 
desired  Mr.  Pritchard  to  express  the  satisfaction  it  had  given  myself 
and  officers  to  witness  the  exhibition  of  a  progress,  which  in  the  elemen- 
tary branches  of  education  had  exceeded  our  expectations;  and  to  state 
that  I  was  assured  it  would  be  gratifying  to  our  country  to  hear 
of  their  improvement.  I  concluded  by  expressing  my  hope  that 
thev  would  persevere  in  their  attention  to  the  missionaries,  who 

VOL.  n.  2 


10  TAHITI. 

were  so  zealously  endeavouring  to  instruct  them  in  knowledge  and 
religion. 

This  short  address  was  immediately  answered  by  Paofai,  a  chief 
who  holds  the  office  of  chief  judge,  and  who  is  generally  considered  as 
the  ablest  and  most  clear-headed  man  in  the  nation.  His  reply  was 
delivered  in  an  earnest  and  animated  manner,  and  contained  many 
expressions  of  gratitude  for  the  attention  and  kindness  shown  them  by 
the  people  of  the  United  States. 

The  exhibition  of  the  schools  did  not  surprise  me  so  much  as  the  fact 
that  few  natives  are  to  be  met  with  who  cannot  both  read  and  write. 
This  was  not  confined  to  the  younger  part  of  the  population,  but  was 
true  even  of  those  advanced  in  years.  I  also  learned  that  they  had 
schools  among  themselves,  and  that  parents  were  well  aware  of  the 
advantages  attendant  on  sending  their  children  to  them.  In  these 
schools  great  pains  are  taken  to  inculcate  cleanly  and  industrious 
habits,  with  sound  moral  and  religious  principles. 

The  hours  of  attendance  are  confined  to  the  forenoon,  and  during 
these  the  schools  are  crowded.  The  parents  are  unwilling  that  their 
children  should  be  confined  for  a  longer  time. 

Our  consul,  Mr.  Blackler,  had  made  complaints  to  me,  as  soon  as  I 
arrived,  of  the  conduct  of  the  queen  and  government,  and  asked  my 
interference.  The  charges  consisted  in  the  following  items : 

1.  The  seizure  of  an  American  whale-boat  and  ill  treatment  of  the 
crew. 

'2.  That  fines  had  been  unjustly  imposed  on  American  seamen. 

3.  The  refusal  to  apprehend  deserters  from   American  ships,  or  to 
provide  a  place  for  their  safe  keeping. 

4.  The  evasion  of  a  promise  to  provide  a  place  for  the  transaction 
of  the  consular  business. 

In  consequence  of  these  complaints,  I  had  immediately  requested 
that  a  council  of  the  chiefs  might  be  held,  and  the  17th  September 
was  appointed  for  the  purpose.  On  this  day  I  ordered  all  the  officers 
that  could  be  spared  from  the  vessels  to  attend.  Captain  Hudson  and 
myself  set  out  at  an  early  hour,  accompanied  by  several  boats.  We 
passed  down  through  the  reefs,  and  reached  Papieti  at  ten  o'clock, 
where  we  were  joined  by  our  consul,  and  in  his  company  proceeded 
to  the  building  which  has  been  mentioned  as  the  scene  of  the  exhibition 
of  the  schools.  Here  we  were  received  by  Mr.  Pritchard,  who 
politely  showed  us  to  the  seats  we  were  to  occupy.  He  then  called 
the  names  of  the  chiefs,  and  each  answering  in  his  turn,  took  his  seat 
on  the  side  of  the  building  opposite  to  us. 


TAHITI. 


11 


The  meeting  being  ready  for  business,  I  read  from  a  paper  a  list  of 
the  grievances  complained  of.  This  was  translated  sentence  by 
sentence  by  a  Mr.  Darling.  When  I  had  finished,  Paofai  again 
appeared  to  make  a  reply.  He  began  by  apologizing  for  the  absence 
of  the  queen,  caused  by  her  approaching  confinement,  and  then 
requested  a  copy  of  the  paper  which  had  been  read,  in  order  that  it 
might  be  considered  and  answered.  He  stated  that  it  included  too 
many  points  to  be  decided  upon  and  answered  at  once,  but  promised 
that  the  matter  should  be  examined,  and  the  business  concluded  as 
speedily  as  possible. 


This  request  was  so  reasonable  that  I  at  once  assented  to  it.  I 
thought  the  proposed  mode  far  better,  and  it  was  more  agreeable  to 
me  than  a  public  discussion  would  have  been,  in  which  confusion 
could  hardly  be  avoided.  I  therefore  broke  up  the  meeting,  after 
stating  that  I  should  look  for  a  satisfactory  reply  on  my  coming  in  the 
Vincennes  to  Papieti. 

Many  of  the  chiefs  seemed  disposed  to  act  correctly  and  do  justice, 
at  least  they  repeatedly  expressed  their  good  intentions.  It  was  also 
evident  to  me,  that  their  minds  were  greatly  relieved  by  the  mode- 
ration of  the  demands,  for  they  had  feared  that  these  were  to  be  of 
some  extraordinary  kind,  and  might  perhaps  include  a  claim  for 
heavy  damages.  Indeed,  since  the  large  contribution  levied  on  this 
island  by  the  French,  the  government  has  entertained  apprehensions, 
and  dreads  the  arrival  of  men-of-war.  These  fears  are  taken  advan- 
tage of  bv  many  ill-disposed  residents,  who  omit  no  opportunity  to 


12  TAHITI. 

practise  upon  their  alarms,  and  to  threaten  them  with  foreign  inter- 
ference. 

Much  complaint  has  been  made  of  the  influence  which  the  mission- 
aries, and  Mr.  Pritchard  in  particular,  exercise  over  the  government 
of  Tahiti.  They  have,  unquestionably,  great  influence ;  but  I  am 
satisfied  that  they  are  justly  entitled  to  it.  Indeed  I  cannot  but 
consider  it  as  part  of  their  duty,  nay,  the  great  object  of  their  mission, 
to  acquire  and  exercise  a  salutary  control  over  their  converts,  both  of 
high  and  low  degree.  My  own  observations  satisfied  me  that  this 
control  is  exerted  solely  for  the  purpose  of  fulfilling  the  laudable  object 
for  which  they  were  sent.  It  is  possible  that  their  views  of  the  proper 
method  of  instructing  an  ignorant  people  are  not  at  all  times,  or  in 
every  respect,  the  most  enlightened ;  but  no  one  can  with  propriety 
question  their  pious  zeal,  or  the  honesty  of  their  intentions.  We  may 
perhaps  lament  their  intolerance  towards  other  sects,  but  no  one  can 
visit  the  island  without  perceiving  on  every  side  the  most  positive 
evidence  of  the  great  benefits  they  have  already  bestowed,  and  are 
daily  conferring  upon  the  inhabitants. 

All  this  good  has  .been  done  in  the  face  of  many  and  great  difficulties. 
The  most  serious  of  these  is  the  evil  influence  of  a  large  portion  of  the 
other  foreign  residents.  Although  among  these  are  some  who  are  truly 
respectable,  the  majority  is  made  up  of  runaways  from  the  English 
convict  settlements,  and  deserters  from  vessels.  These  men,  the  out- 
casts and  refuse  of  every  maritime  nation,  are  addicted  to  every 
description  of  vice,  and  would  be  a  pest  even  in  a  civilized  community. 
It  may  easily  be  conceived  what  an  injurious  influence  such  a  band  of 
vagabonds,  without  trade  or  occupation  by  which  they  can  support 
themselves,  guilty  of  every  species  of  profanity  and  crime,  must  exert 
upon  the  morals  of  the  natives,  and  what  a  barrier  they  must  oppose 
to  their  improvement  in  morals  and  religion. 

Tahiti,  when  first  visited,  was  proverbial  for  its  licentiousness,  and 
it  would  be  asking  too  much,  to  require  that  after  so  short  an  enjoy- 
ment of  the  means  of  instruction,  and  in  the  face  of  such  obstacles,  its 
inhabitants  should  as  a  body  have  become  patterns  of  good  morals. 
Licentiousness  does  still  exist  among  them,  but  the  foreign  residents 
and  visitors  are  in  a  great  degree  the  cause  of  its  continuance,  and  an 
unbridled  intercourse  with  them  serves  to  perpetuate  it.  Severe  laws 
have  been  enacted,  but  they  cannot  be  put  in  force  in  cases  where  one 
of  the  parties  is  a  foreigner.  I  see  no  reason,  however,  why  this 
island  should  be  pointed  out  as  conspicuous  for  licentiousness.  When 
compared  with  many  parts  of  the  world  that  arrogate  a  superior 
civilization,  it  appears  almost  in  an  advantageous  light.  Vice,  at  any 


TAHITI.  13 

rate,  does  not  stalk  abroad  in  the  open  day,  as  it  did  in  some  places 
we  had  lately  visited  upon  the  American  continent.  It  would  be  unfair 
to  judge  of  these  natives,  before  they  had  received  instruction,  by  our 
rules  of  propriety ;  and  now  many  of  those  who  bear  testimony  to  the 
laxity  of  their  morals,  visit  their  shores  for  the  very  purpose  of  enticing 
thorn  into  guilt,  and  of  rioting  without  fear  or  hindrance  in  debauchery. 
Coming  with  such  intentions,  and  finding  themselves  checked  by  the 
influence  of  the  missionaries,  they  rail  against  them  because  they  have 
put  an  end  to  the  obscene  dances  and  games  of  the  natives,  and  pro- 
cured the  enactment  of  laws  forbidding  illicit  intercourse. 

The  missionaries  are  far  from  overrating  their  own  success  in 
effecting  an  improvement  in  morals,  and  inculcating  the  obligations  of 
religion.  So  far  from  this,  I  found  that  they  generally  complained  that 
sincere  piety  was  rarely  to  be  found  among  the  natives.  However 
this  may  be,  the  external  signs  of  moral  arid  religious  improvement 
are  conspicuous.  Many  of  the  natives  are  scrupulous  in  their  attention 
to  Christian  duties,  and  members  in  communion  of  the  church.  All 
are  strict  observers  of  the  Sabbath  ;  indeed,  nowhere  is  its  institution 
more  religiously  attended  to  than  in  those  Polynesian  islands  which 
are  under  missionary  influence.  On  that  day  no  canoe  is  launched 
upon  the  waters,  and  no  person  is  seen  abroad  except  while  on  his 
way  to  or  return  from  church.  When  thus  seen,  they  are  neatly  and 
decently  clothed,  although  in  very  bad  taste.  At  church  they  form  a 
respectable-looking  congregation,  and  listen  with  attention  to  the 
preacher. 

The  success  of  the  missionaries  in  introducing  this  strict  observance 
of  a  Sabbath  is  ascribed  by  themselves  in  a  great  degree  to  its  analogy 
to  the  taboo-days  of  heathen  times,  and  the  continuance  of  its  sanctity 
is  now  insured  by  the  penalties  which  await  an  infraction  of  it.  The 
punishment  for  Sabbath-breaking  consists  in  the  offender  being  com- 
pelled to  make  a  certain  number  of  fathoms  of  road,  and  upon  a 
repetition  of  the  offence,  the  number  of  fathoms  is  much  increased. 

I  cannot  pass  without  notice  the  untiring  efforts  of  many  of  the 
foreign  residents  to  disparage  the  missionaries  and  vilify  the  natives. 
They  endeavour  on  all  occasions  to  prepossess  the  minds  of  visiters 
against  both.  These  efforts,  however,  generally  fail  of  success ;  for 
no  reflecting  mind  can  fail  to  perceive  how  devoid  they  are  of  any 
foundation,  nor  avoid  noticing  the  baneful  effects  these  residents  are 
themselves  producing,  by  inculcating  principles  for  which  many  of 
them  have  been  compelled  to  fly  their  own  countries,  or  teaching  the 
practice  of  crimes  from  whose  penalty  they  have  made  their  escape. 

There  are  about  a  hundred  characters  of  this  description  on  the 


14  TAHITI. 

island,  and  to  give  a  better  idea  of  them  I  shall  divide  them  into  three 
Classes. 

The  first  class  comprises  merchants,  if  they  can  be  so  called.  The 
sole  object  of  these  is  to  make  money.  I  regret  to  say  that,  as  far  as 
my  observation  went,  this  purpose  is  not  accomplished  without  injury 
to  the  welfare  of  the  natives.  This  class  endeavours  to  place  both  the 
persons  who  compose  it  and  the  premises  they  occupy  beyond  the 
reach  of  the  local  laws. 

The  second  class  is  composed  of  the  children  born  upon  the  island 
of  missionary  parents.  Of  these  many  seem  to  have  forgotten  utterly 
the  principles  instilled  into  them  in  their  infancy. 

The  third  class  is  much  the  most  numerous,  and  those  I  include  in 
it  appear  destitute  of  all  moral  or  religious  principle.  They  stand  out 
openly  and  boldly  in  defiance  of  all  law  and  decency.  Among  them 
continual  complaints  are  to  be  heard  against  the  missionaries,  the 
government,  and  the  people.  On  being  asked  to  state  the  ground  of 
their  complaints,  most  of  them  fail  in  presenting  any  other  charges 
than  that  the  missionaries  are  endeavouring  to  make  the  natives  too 
good ;  that  they  deprive  them  of  their  innocent  luxury  of  intoxicating 
liquors;  that  they  interdict  promiscuous  intercourse,  and  have  ruined 
the  trade  of  the  island  by  preventing  the  women  from  going  on  board 
ship;  that  they  have  interfered  with  their  amusements  by  abolishing 
lascivious  dances  and  songs,  and  requiring  from  them  instead,  prayers 
and  hymns  ;  that  they  have  introduced  too  strict  an  observance  of  a 
Sabbath,  translated  the  Scriptures,  and  taught  the  natives  to  read 
them.  Others  argue  seriously,  that  this  mild  and  amiable  people  had 
no  need  of  instruction  in  divine  revelation ;  that  they  would  have  been 
much  happier  had  they  been  left  to  follow  their  own  inclinations  ;  and 
that  they  have  been  rendered  miserable  by  being  taught  their  respon- 
sibility as  accountable  beings. 

The  missionaries,  however,  receive  countenance  and  support  from  a 
more  respectable  portion  of  the  foreign  residents.  These,  although 
they  do  not  approve  of  the  whole  of  the  course  the  missionaries  have 
pursued,  are  united  in  upholding  the  moral  and  religious  principles 
which  they  endeavour  to  inculcate. 

Although  much  has  been  done  for  the  improvement  of  the  natives, 
still  it  appears  evident  that  much  more  might  have  been  done  if  the 
missionaries  had  not  confined  themselves  so  exclusively  to  teaching 
from  the  Scriptures.  The  natives,  by  all  accounts,  are  extremely  fond 
of  story-telling,  and  marvellous  tales  of  their  ancestors  and  ancient 
gods,  are  even  now  a  source  of  amusement.  The  missionaries,  as  I 
am  told,  possess  much  information  in  relation  to  the  history  and 


T  A  II  I  T  I.  ]  5 

mythology  of  the  island,  embodied  in  the  superstitious  tales  still  occa- 
sionally current  among  its  inhabitants.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  they 
will  preserve  a  record  of  these,  before  they  are  obliterated  by  their 
exertions  to  destroy  the  ancient  superstition.  But  they  would  have 
succeeded  sooner  in  eradicating  the  practice  of  reciting  these  legends, 
had  they  provided  a  substitute  in  works  of  fiction,  inculcating  moral 
and  religious  lessons,  or  teaching  useful  knowledge.  So  also,  while 
it  was  indispensable  to  put  down  those  amusements  which  were  the 
means  or  incentives  to  debauchery,  this  measure  ought  to  have  been 
accompanied  by  the  introduction  of  innocent  modes  of  recreation. 
For  want  of  the  first  resource,  much  time  is  now  spent  in  unmeaning 
gossip,  and  the  necessity  for  the  other  is  often  shown  in  a  listless 
idleness. 

No  attempt  has  been  made  by  the  missionaries  to  introduce  the 
mechanic  arts,  or  improvements  in  agriculture,  yet  it  cannot  be 
doubted,  that  to  have  taught  them  even  the  simplest  of  these,  would 
have  materially  aided  the  progress  of  civilization,  and  reacted  favour- 
ably upon  that  of  religion.  The  failure  of  a  cotton  manufactory,  with 
expensive  machinery,  which  was  erected  on  the  island  of  Eimeo, 
affords  no  argument  against  the  probable  success  of  less  complex  arts. 
The  natives  were  not  prepared  to  pass  at  once  from  habits  of  desultory 
exertion,  to  the  regular  and  stated  occupation  of  the  mill.  But  the 
spinning-wheel,  the  hand-loom,  and  the  plough,  would  not  have  required 
such  a  decided  change,  in  the  number  of  hours  of  labour,  and  would 
have  served  as  a  preparation  for  more  continuous  industry.  The  two 
former  implements  have  at  length  been  introduced  by  other  hands,  and 
have  already  been  adopted  with  eagerness  by  some  of  the  natives. 

The  change  of  dress  which  has  been  introduced  by  the  missionaries 
and  other  foreigners,  has,  on  the  contrary,  had  an  injurious  effect  on 
the  industry  of  this  people.  While  they  wore  their  native  tapa,  the 
fabric,  though  of  little  value,  gave  employment  to  numbers  of  women ; 
and  this  change  of  dress,  intended  as  an  advance  in  civilization,  has 
had  the  effect  of  superseding  employments  which  formerly  engaged 
their  attention,  and  occupied  their  time.  The  idleness  hence  arising, 
and  the  artificial  wants  thus  created,  have  no  little  influence  in  perpe- 
tuating licentiousness  among  the  females,  to  whom  foreign  finery  is  a 
great  temptation.  The  European  dress,  at  least  as  worn  by  them,  is 
neither  as  becoming,  nor  as  w^ell  adapted  to  the  climate  as  that  which 
it  has  almost  superseded.  Many  of  the  missionaries  now  see  these 
thino-s  in  their  true  light,  and  informed  me  that  they  were  endeavouring 
to  pursue  a  more  enlightened  course. 

Upon  the  whole,  although  the  missionaries  may  be  chargeable  with 


16  TAHITI. 

misjudging  zeal,  and  have  exhibited  a  want  of  practical  knowledge  of 
human  nature  in  their  efforts,  and  in  the  solution  of  the  difficult 
problem  of  bringing  barbarians  to  civilization,  they  ought  to  receive 
due  credit  for  what  they  have  actually  accomplished.  I  am  decidedly 
of  opinion,  that  in  spite  of  all  the  drawbacks  I  have  mentioned,  as 
much  would  not  have  been  done  by  any  other  class  of  persons.  It  has 
demanded  a  sense  of  religious  duty,  to  enable  them  to  persevere  in  a 
constant  devotion  to  the  cause  in  which  they  have  embarked,  to  enable 
them  to  undergo  the  privations  and  trials  to  which  they  have  been 
subjected,  while  continually  at  the  mercy  of  uncivilized  men.  No 
desire  of  pecuniary  emolument  has  been  evinced  by  them,  nor  are 
they  sustained  by  any  expectation  of  temporal  reward  ;  and  I  can 
testify,  from  personal  observation,  that  their  position  in  a  worldly 
sense,  is  not  to  be  envied. 

To  judge  of  the  amount  of  good  they  have  accomplished,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  turn  back  to  the  records  of  early  voyages,  and  compare  the 
present  with  the  former  condition  of  these  islanders.  Now  they  are  seen 
enjoying  peace,  possessing  a  written  instead  of  a  mere  oral  language, 
living  under  wholesome  laws,  and  receiving  the  advantages  of  school 
education  and  church  discipline.  In  former  times,  we  read  of  perpetual 
intestine  broils,  of  the  worship  of  idols  propitiated  by  human  sacrifice, 
of  the  depraved  association  of  the  Ariore,  and  its  accompanying  crime 
of  infanticide.  In  making  this  comparison,  we  cannot  but  acknowledge 
that  the  persons  who  have  effected  these  changes,  are  both  Christians 
and  philanthropists,  and  that  they  have  been  reasonably  successful  in 
implanting  the  principles  of  civilization. 

As  a  proof  of  the  value  of  their  labours,  my  experience  warrants  me 
in  saying  that  the  natives  of  Tahiti  are  honest,  well-behaved,  and 
obliging ;  that  no  drunkenness  or  rioting  is  to  be  seen,  except  when 
provoked  by  their  white  visitors  and  inmates,  and  that  they  are  obe- 
dient to  the  laws  and  to  their  rulers.  That  they  should  be  compara- 
tively indolent  is  natural,  in  a  climate  where  the  fruits  of  the  earth 
almost  spontaneously  supply  the  wants  of  nature,  and  where  a  mere 
animal  existence  may  be  maintained  without  labour.  No  People  are,  in 
truth,  so  independent  of  the  aid  even  of  their  fellows  as  the  Tahitians. 
A  native  may  in  the  morning  be  wholly  destitute  even  of  implements 
wherewith  to  work,  and  before  nightfall  he  may  be  found  clothed, 
lodged,  and  have  all  the  necessaries  of  life  around  him  in  abundance. 
These  he  derives  from  the  cocoa-nut,  the  poorou  (Hibiscus  tiliaceus), 
banana,  bread-fruit,  and  bamboo.  That  he  does  not  find  it  necessary 
to  call  upon  others  for  assistance,  does  not  make  him  forget  the  duties 
of  hospitality,  but  it  does  produce  a  thoughtlessness  about  his  own 


TAHITI. 


17 


wants,  and  takes  away  that  incitement  to  labour,  which  is  so  powerful 
an  aid  in  the  promotion  of  civilization.  Still,  I  am  satisfied  that  the 
Tahitians  do  not  avoid  labour,  when  they  can  work  with  profit  to  them- 
selves. Those  who  were  employed  on  board  the  squadron,  where  their 
pay  was  liberal  and  regular,  performed  their  tasks  faithfully  and  well ; 
and  they  bear  the  same  character  for  fidelity  in  the  whale-ships,  on 
board  of  which  they  are  much  employed.  Some  of  them  are  now 
engaged  in  the  culture  of  the  sugar-cane ;  and  a  single  native  planta- 
tion was  mentioned  to  me,  of  which  the  preceding  year's  crop  had 
amounted  to  five  tons.  Coffee  has  also  been  planted,  and  succeeds 
remarkably  well.  Much  more,  too,  would  have  been  done  in  these 
productions  had  their  industry  been  encouraged  by  the  missionaries,  as 
a  body ;  but,  while  some  of  them  have  done  their  utmost  to  stimulate 
the  natives  to  exertion,  others  have  altogether  discountenanced  any 
attempts  to  introduce  new  articles  of  culture. 

One  of  the  most  important  consequences  of  the  introduction  of  civili- 
zation has  been  the  establishment  of  a  settled  constitution.  This  was 
framed  by  the  missionaries  in  1823,  upon  the  model  of  that  of  England, 
and  was  revised  in  1826.  The  royal  authority  includes  the  power  of 
the  veto,  the  nomination  of  the  supreme  judges,  and  of  all  officers  con- 
nected with  the  person  of  the  sovereign.  The  crown  is  hereditary, 
descending  either  to  males  or  females.  The  legislative  power  is  lodged 
in  an  assembly,  composed  of  two  members  from  each  district,  chosen 
triennially  by  the  people.  This  assembly  is  convened  annually  for  the 
purpose  of  remodelling  existing  laws,  or  enacting  new  ones.  It  has 
also  semi-annual  meetings,  and  may  be  convened  more  frequently,  if 
necessary,  for  the  discussion  of  questions  of  importance.  All  enact- 
ments of  the  legislature,  before  they  become  laws,  are  laid  before  the 
queen  for  her  approbation  and  signature.  When  this  is  affixed,  they 
are  carried  into  effect  by  the  judges  and  the  officers  of  the  crown. 
Should  she  refuse  her  signature,  they  are  revised  and  remodified,  or 
laid  aside  altogether. 

The  island  is  divided  into  seven  districts,  each  of  which  has  an 
inferior  court  for  the  trial  of  ordinary  cases.  This  consists  of  two 
judges,  who  are  not  unfrequently  also  members  of  the  legislature.  The 
decision  of  these  courts  must  be  founded  upon  evidence,  and  appeal  lies 
to  the  supreme  tribunal. 

This  supreme  court  is  composed  of  seven  judges,  two  of  whom  are 
residents  of  the  island  of  Eimeo.  The  judges  are  also  executive 
officers,  and  nearly  all  are  chiefs.  This  double  capacity  gives  them 
great  influence,  and  their  power  is  sufficient  to  supply,  in  part,  the 

VOL.  n.  3 


18  TAHITI. 

queen's  want  of  energy,  but  at  the  same  time  serves  as  a  check  against 
any  encroachment  upon  the  prerogatives  of  the  sovereign. 

The  powers  of  this  court  even  extend  to  an  impeachment  of  the 
royal  ruler. 

The  mode  of  trial,  both  of  civil  and  criminal  cases,  is  by  a  jury,  and 
free  argument  is  allowed.  The  testimony  is  not  given  upon  oath,  but 
the  penalty  for  giving  false  evidence  is  severe.  The  jury  is  composed 
of  six  persons ;  and  every  one  has  the  right  of  being  tried  by  his  peers. 

The  reigning  queen  is  named  Aimata,  but  is  more  usually  known  as 
Pomare  IV.  She  is  the  sister  of  the  late  king,  and  grand-daughter  to 
that  Pomare  I.  who  acquired  the  sovereignty  of  Tahiti,  soon  after  its 
discovery.  She  is  now  (1839)  about  twenty-seven  years  of  age,  and 
has  been  twice  married :  the  first  time  to  Pomare,  a  young  chief  of 
Tahaa,  from  whom  she  was  divorced ;  the  second,  to  a  young  chief 
of  the  island  of  Huaheine,  by  whom  she  has  one  son,  the  heir  of  the 
throne.  The  general  appellation  he  goes  by  is  Pomare  taue,  equiva- 
lent to  king-consort. 

Next  in  rank  to  the  queen,  is  her  aunt,  Ariapaca,  the  eldest  sister  of 
her  mother,  and  at  one  time  queen-regent.  She  still  possesses  great 
influence. 

In  case  of  failure  of  the  queen's  posterity,  the  next  heirs  to  the 
throne  are  the  princesses  Ninito  and  Taii,  who  are  the  queen's  cousins, 
and  nieces  to  Pomare  II. 

Uata,  the  godfather  of  the  queen,  although  not  a  chief  by  birth,  has 
from  this  connexion  obtained  great  influence  in  the  queen's  councils, 
and  may  be  termed  prime  minister. 

The  seven  judges  of  the  supreme  tribunal  are  nominated  by  the 
queen,  but  the  nomination  must  be  confirmed  by  the  legislature.  Those 
who  at  present  hold  the  office  are  all  large  landholders,  and  men  of  the 
highest  character  and  intelligence  to  be  found  in  the  population.  They 
are  in  fact  the  rulers  of  the  kingdom.  Five  of  them,  viz. :  Paofai, 
Mare,  Utami,  Taati,  and  Tanoni,  reside  on  the  island  of  Tahiti ;  the 
other  two,  Ruetone  and  Mahine,  at  Eimeo. 

In  spite  of  the  small  extent  of  the  kingdom,  it  is  not  without  sub- 
jects to  distract  its  councils.  There  are  two  distinct  parties :  the  one 
led  by  the  queen  and  the  missionaries ;  the  other,  by  some  of  the 
chiefs.  The  leaders  of  the  latter  are  Paofai,  Hitoti,  and  Taua,  who 
are  descended  from  the  ancient  kings  dethroned  by  Pomare  I.  These 
chiefs  have  large  domains,  and  many  of  the  raatiras  (landholders)  take 
part  with  them.  They  are,  besides,  distinguished  by  qualities  which 
give  them  consideration  among  the  islanders.  Paofai,  who  has  more 


TAHITI.  19 

than  once  been  spoken  of,  holds  the  office  of  chief  judge,  and  is  con- 
sidered as  the  best  statesman  on  the  island.  Hitoti  is  distinguished  for  a 
dignity,  uprightness,  and  good  sense,  which  command  universal  respect. 
Taua  possesses  a  high  reputation  as  a  brave  and  skilful  warrior. 

Of  these  three  leaders,  Hitoti  alone  is  wholly  free  from  reproach. 
Paofai  is  accused  of  covetousness,  and  a  propensity  to  intrigue ;  and 
Taua,  of  a  fondness  for  intoxicating  drinks. 

The  queen,  however,  contrives  to  rule  in  all  matters  that  rightfully 
belong  to  her;  and,  by  the  aid  of  the  missionaries,  maintains  her 
ground  against  this  strong  opposition,  although  its  leaders  have  gene- 
rally the  power  to  determine  the  course  of  policy  to  be  pursued,  and 
entire  authority  over  the  execution  of  the  laws.  They  are  much 
opposed  to  foreigners,  and  have  made  several  attempts  to  have  them 
banished  from  the  island.  They  are  supposed  to  entertain  the  design 
of  setting  aside  the  queen,  on  account  of  her  irregular  behaviour  and 
vices ;  but  this  plan  is  not  likely  to  succeed,  because  of  the  personal 
popularity  she  enjoys,  and  the  number  of  adherents  she  possesses 
among  the  people.  In  conformity  with  such  a  design,  these  chiefs  are 
said  to  be  continually  watching  for  opportunities  to  increase  their  own 
power  and  diminish  the  royal  authority.  Among  the  occasions  of 
which  they  endeavoured  to  avail  themselves,  was  the  celebrated  affair 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  priests,  the  circumstances  of  which,  as  nearly 
as  I  could  learn  from  the  statements  of  both  parties,  are  as  follows : 

Two  priests  of  this  denomination,  who  had  been  stationed  at  the 
Manga  Reva,  or  Gambier  Group,  landed  on  the  southern  side  of  the 
island,  and  travelled  towards  Papieti,  preaching  the  doctrines  of  their 
church.  They,  however,  found  none  willing  to  listen,  and  it  is  said, 
that  no  native  would  receive  them  into  his  house.  On  their  arrival  at 
Papieti,  however,  Paofai,  Hitoti,  and  some  other  chiefs,  gave  them 
countenance,  and  they  were  hospitably  received  by  Mr.  Morenhout, 
the  acting  American  consul,  who,  however,  did  not  lodge  them  under 
his  own  roof,  but  in  an  adjacent  building.  The  people,  however, 
excited  by  the  preaching  of  the  English  missionaries,  broke  into  the 
building,  and  compelled  the  priests  to  embark  on  board  a  small  vessel, 
which  carried  them  to  Uea,  or  Wallis  Island,  about  two  thousand 
miles  to  the  west  of  Tahiti. 

In  considering  this  question  calmly,  and  stripping  it  of  the  exagge- 
rations with  which  both  parties  have  loaded  it,  it  is  difficult  to  say 
which  was  most  in  the  wrong.  The  Protestant  religion  was  established 
by  law  upon  the  island,  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others,  and  this  the 
priests  well  knew ;  nor  can  any  but  zealots,  who  think  that  those  whom 
they  style  heretics  are  worse  than  infidels,  excuse  their  intrusion  upon 


20  T  A  H  I  T  I. 

missionary  ground  already  fully  and  successfully  occupied.  On  the 
other  hand,  their  precipitate  expulsion,  under  circumstances  of  great 
hardship,  exhibited  an  unchristian  spirit,  for  which  the  resident  mis- 
sionaries may  justly  be  held  responsible,  as  they  unquestionably  had  it 
in  their  power  to  prevent  any  positive  ill  treatment  on  the  part  of  the 
natives. 

The  consequences  of  this  expulsion  of  the  priests  remain  to  be 
related.  In  due  course  of  time  the  French  frigate  Venus,  commanded 
by  M.  Du  Petit  Thouars,  arrived  at  the  island,  and  anchored  in  the 
harbour  of  Papieti.  The  commander  immediately  demanded  satisfac- 
tion for  the  outrage  committed  on  his  countrymen  the  priests,  and 
threatened  that  unless  two  thousand  dollars  were  paid  him  within 
twenty-four  hours,  he  would  fire  upon  and  burn  the  town  of  Papieti. 
The  queen  had  no  money,  and  was  inclined,  as  I  was  told,  to  let  the 
French  do  their  worst;  but  as  in  this  case  the  loss  would  have  fallen 
wholly  on  the  foreign  residents,  the  required  sum  was  collected  from 
them  by  Mr.  Pritchard,  and  paid  to  M.  Du  Petit  Thouars.  A  treaty 
was  also  forced  upon  the  government,  allowing  all  Frenchmen  to  visit 
the  island  freely,  to  erect  churches,  and  to  practise  their  religion. 
Thus  the  local  laws  were  abrogated  under  the  threats  of  an  irresistible 
force,  and  the  national  independence  virtually  surrendered. 

This  was  a  high-handed  measure  on  the  part  of  the  French  com- 
mander, and  one  that  hardly  admits  of  justification,  particularly  the 
demand  for  money ;  for  he  had  himself  been  received  with  great 
hospitality,  and  not  long  before  another  of  his  sovereign's  frigates,  the 
Artemise,  (I  think),  had  been  saved  from  wreck  by  the  unrecompensed 
exertions  of  the  Tahitians.  The  amount  demanded  also  was  at  least 
four  times  as  great  as  the  pecuniary  damage  incurred  by  the  priests 
would  be  reasonably  valued  at.  The  French  commander,  therefore, 
appears,  in  thus  bullying  a  defenceless  people  into  the  payment  of  an 
exorbitant  indemnity,  and  into  a  relinquishment  of  the  right  of  admitting 
or  excluding  foreigners  and  strange  religious  creeds,  by  municipal 
regulation,  in  a  light  far  from  advantageous. 

We  have  seen  that  Paofai  and  his  party  at  first  countenanced  the 
French  priests.  This  they  no  doubt  did  in  the  hope  of  introducing  an 
influence  which  might  be  opposed  to  that  of  the  English  missionaries. 
Subsequently  to  these  transactions,  and  after  an  attempt  by  two 
foreigners  to  murder  Mrs.  Morenhout,  they  have  endeavoured  to  obtain 
the  passage  of  a  law  for  the  expulsion  of  all  foreigners  whatsoever. 

The  aversion  to  the  permanent  residence  of  foreigners  is  general, 
and  although  there  is  no  law  forbidding  the  sale  of  land  to  them,  yet 
no  offers  have  hitherto  been  found  sufficient  to  induce  the  chiefs  to 


TAHITI.  21 

dispose  of  any  portion  of  their  soil.  They  find  in  its  possession  an 
acknowledged  right  to  rank  and  respectability,  and  it  spontaneously 
yields  them  and  their  followers  the  means  of  subsistence.  So  powerful 
is  this  repugnance  to  the  admission  of  foreigners  to  any  of  the  privileges 
arising  from  a  possession  of  land,  that  those  who  are  attempting  to 
cultivate  sugar,  &c.,  hold  their  leases  by  so  uncertain  a  tenure  as  to 
prevent  their  making  any  permanent  improvement. 

The  canoes  at  Tahiti  show  an  evident  improvement  on  those  of  the 
Disappointment  Islanders ;  the  bottom  is  constructed  of  one  piece. 
They  use  an  out-rigger,  and  have  a  projection  over  the  stern  for  land- 
ing. The  paddle  is  also  different. 


COMMON  TAHITIAN  CANOE. 


The  fertile  portion  of  the  island  of  Tahiti  lies  in  the  valleys,  which 
are  of  small  extent,  and  in  the  plain  which  extends  from  the  sea-shore 
to  the  spurs  of  the  mountains.  These  produce  tropical  plants  in  great 
abundance  and  luxuriance,  and  are  probably  not  exceeded  in  fertility 
by  any  portion  of  the  earth's  surface.  The  climate  of  this  region  is 
warm  but  not  enervating,  and  is  well  adapted  for  the  enjoyment  of  all 
the  pleasures  of  life.  To  this  climate  the  habits  and  pursuits  of  the 
natives  are  well  adapted,  or  rather  they  are  its  necessary  results. 
Their  disposition  leads  them  to  the  quiet  enjoyment  of  the  beautiful 
scenes  around  them.  Their  cottages  are  to  be  found  in  retired  and 
lovely  spots,  and  are  usually  surrounded  by  neatly-fenced  enclosures. 
In  these,  which  are  often  of  considerable  extent,  are  to  be  seen  grow- 
ing the  bread-fruit,  vi-apple,  and  orange,  and  sometimes  extensive 
groves  of  tall  cocoa-nut  trees.  In  one  corner  are  the  patches  of  taro 
and  sweet-potatoes. 

The  cottages  are  of  an  oval  form,  usually  about  fifty  or  sixty  feet 
in  length,  and  twenty  in  breadth.  The  walls  are  formed  of  bamboos 
set  in  the  ground,  with  intervals  of  about  an  inch  between  them,  for 
the  admission  of  light  and  air.  To  the  top  of  these  a  plate-piece  of 
the  hibiscus,  a  light  and  strong  wood,  is  lashed  with  sinnet.  From 
this  the  rafters  rise  on  all  sides,  and  meet  in  a  ridge,  which  is  about 
half  the  length  of  the  building.  The  rafters  touch  each  other,  and  are 
covered  with  small  mats  made  of  the  pandanus-leaf.  These  are  closely 
fitted  together,  and  lapped  over  each  other,  forming  an  impervious  and 
durable  roof.  The  floor  is  the  natural  earth ;  there  are  no  partitions, 


22  TAHITI. 

but  tapa  or  matting  is  employed  as  an  occasional  screen.     A  building 
of  this  description  may  be  erected  for  about  fifty  dollars. 


NATIVE  HOUSE,  TAHITI. 

The  Tahitians  use  neither  tables  nor  chairs.  Their  bedsteads  are 
formed  of  a  framework  of  cane,  raised  a  short  distance  from  the 
ground,  upon  which  a  few  mats  are  laid.  A  pillow  stuffed  with 
aromatic  herbs  is  in  general  use  among  the  better  class. 

The  natives  are  generally  to  be  found  in  their  houses,  in  a  circle, 
chatting,  reading,  and  singing,  or  smoking,  unless  they  be,  as  is  often 
the  case,  asleep.  They  are  seldom  to  be  seen  engaged  in  manual 
labour,  except  on  the  sides  of  the  streams  where  they  are  employed  in 
washing,  or  at  the  residences  of  the  chiefs. 

I  hesitate  to  speak  of  the  females  of  this  island,  for  I  differ  from  all 
who  have  gone  before  me  in  relation  to  their  vaunted  beauty.  I  did 
not  see  among  them  a  single  woman  whom  I  could  call  handsome. 
They  have,  indeed,  a  soft  sleepiness  about  the  eyes,  which  may  be 
fascinating  to  some,  but  I  should  rather  ascribe  the  celebrity  their 
charms  have  obtained  among  navigators,  to  their  cheerfulness  and 
gaiety.  Their  figures  are  bad,  and  the  greater  part  of  them  are 
parrot-toed.  They  are  exceedingly  prone  to  prattling,  or  may  rather 
be  said  to  have  a  tattling  disposition,  for  they  cannot  keep  even  their 
own  secrets. 

This  want  of  reserve  is  not  confined  to  the  women :  the  men  are 
also  incapable  of  keeping  a  secret.  A  crime  is  divulged  almost  as 
soon  as  committed,  and  for  a  small  reward  they  will  become  informers 
against  their  nearest  relatives  and  friends. 

I  have  spoken  of  the  incongruous  character  of  the  dress  of  the 
females.  Among  the  men  this  is  not  as  strongly  marked  as  it  is  said 
formerly  to  have  been,  and  they  are  no  longer  content  with  cast-off 
clothing.  Those  who  can  obtain  it  are  dressed  in  sailors'  garb.  Others 
wear  around  their  bodies,  a  wrapper  called  pareu,  which  extends  to 
the  calf  of  the  leg.  This  is  now  usually  made  of  blue  cotton  cloth, 
and  with  it  some  wear  a  cotton  shirt  of  gaudy  colours.  Others 


TAHITI. 


23 


luxuriate  in  a  pair  of  duck  trousers,  and  carry  the  pareu  upon  their 
shoulders. 

The  appearance  of  the  dress  of  the  women  while  at  church,  has 
already  been  spoken  of.  On  ordinary  occasions,  they  wear  the  pareu 
alone,  but  when  dressed,  put  over  it  a  loose  dress,  resembling  a 
night-gown,  buttoned  at  the  wrists,  and  confined  in  no  other  place. 
Relics  of  their  ancient  dress  may  still  occasionally  be  seen  in  wreaths 
of  flowers  around  the  head,  and  in  the  hair.  The  hau  is  a  sort  of 
rim  made  of  pandanus,  and  when  it  has  flowers  beneath,  it 


TAHITJAN  GIRL,  WITH  THE  HAU. 

a  pleasing  and  rural  look  to  the  women,  to  whom  it  also  affords  a 
convenient  and  easily-procured  protection  from  the  sun.  The  wreaths 
are  usually  composed  of  the  Cape  Jasmine  and  Rosa  Sinensis,  the 
latter  of  which  is  often  stuck  through  the  lobes  of  their  ears,  and  in 
their  glossy  black  hair. 

The  natives  of  both  sexes  seem  passionately  fond  of  flowers,  but 
the  use  of  these  in  dress  has  been  discouraged  by  their  teachers,  who 
have  taught  them  that  such  vanities  are  unbecoming  to  Christians. 
I  am  at  a  loss  to  understand  why  so  innocent  a  pleasure  should  not 
have  been  encouraged  rather  than  discountenanced.  In  conformity 
with  this  opinion,  the  absence  of  flowers  around  the  missionaries' 
dwellings  is  universal,  and  cannot  fail  to  be  remarked  in  a  climate 
•where  the  plants  most  admired  in  their  own  country,  as  exotics,  are  of 
almost  spontaneous  growth. 

Cooking  and  eating  occupy  but  a  small  portion  of  their  time.  The 
latter  indeed  is  performed  with  more  of  the  air  of  a  business  which 
requires  despatch,  than  any  thing  else  they  do.  Their  food  consists 
principally  of  bread-fruit,  taro,  banana,  vi-apple  (Spondias),  oranges, 


24 


TAHITI. 


cocoa-nuts,  sugar-cane,  fowls,  and  fish.  They  eat  no  salt,  but  employ 
instead  of  it  a  sort,  of  sop,  made  of  sea-water,  cocoa-nut  milk,  and  the 
root  of  the  ti.  Their  mode  of  eating  is  somewhat  disagreeable,  for 
the  bread-fruit  or  taro  is  dipped  in  the  sop,  and  then  sucked  into  the 
mouth  with  a  smacking  sound,  that  may  be  heard  at  some  distance.  The 
vessel  most  commonly  used  is  a  cocoa-nut  shell.  The  children  are  fed 
upon  poe,  which  is  made  of  bread-fruit  and  taro,  pounded  together  with 
a  little  sugar.  The  child  is  laid  on  its  back,  and  is  crammed  with 
balls  of  poe  of  the  size  of  a  walnut,  at  which  it  shows  its  delight  by 
flapping  its  arms,  kicking,  and  chirping  like  a  young  bird. 

At  Tahiti  the  mode  of  carrying  burdens  is  the  same  as  we  found 
prevailing  throughout  Polynesia ;  the  wood-cut  will  best  explain  it. 


MALE  COSTUME,  TAHITI. 


The  men  of  Tahiti  care  little  about  music,  but  the  women  appear  to 
be  passionately  fond  of  it,  and  have  very  correct  ears.  Many  of  them 
have  rich  contralto  voices,  and  can  descend  to  very  low  notes,  while 
others  do  not  differ  in  this  respect  from  the  females  of  our  own  country  • 
occasionally  one  may  be  found  that  can  sound  exceedingly  clear  and 
very  high  notes.  Their  voices  accord  well  with  each  other,  and  a 
party  of  four  or  five  will  make  excellent  harmony. 

If  they  ever  had  any  native  music,  it  has  long  been  forgotten,  and  no 
other  sinking  is  now  heard  but  hymns  and  sailors'  songs ;  you  observe, 


TAHITI.  25 

however,  a  peculiar  nasal  sound,  particularly  in  those  who  indulge  in 
the  latter  class  of  singing. 

Social  amusements  are  prohibited  by  severe  penalties,  although  the 
people  are  evidently  fond  of  them :  I  neither  saw  nor  heard  myself  of 
any  dancing  or  theatrical  amusements  during  our  stay.  Some  of  the 
officers,  however,  persuaded  a  few  females  to  exhibit  a  dance,  upon  the 
strict  assurance  that  they  should  not  be  informed  against.  Mats  were 
spread  upon  the  floor,  on  which  two  of  the  girls  stood  up  to  dance, 
while  the  others  sat  cross-legged  around.  One  of  the  latter  began  by 
uttering  a  few  words  of  no  delicate  import,  in  reply  to  which  all  the 
others  made  a  sort  of  grunt,  with  the  mouth  shut.  To  this  succeeds 
another  set  of  sounds  uttered  with  the  mouth  open. 

Mouth  open. 
f f 


umh        umh         umh  ha 

To  this  all  keep  time,  by  drawing  up  the  legs,  thrusting  out  the  arms, 
and  making  all  sorts  of  contortions.  In  the  meantime  the  two  dancers 
proceed,  twisting  their  bodies  into  all  kinds  of  lascivious  postures. 
Little  can  be  said  for  the  gracefulness  of  these  motions,  although  many 
have  described  them  as  such.  The  whole  finishes  by  a  simultaneous 
clapping  of  the  hands. 

The  party  that  was  despatched  for  the  purpose  of  making  an  attempt 
to  reach  the  top  of  Orohena,  consisted  of  fifteen  persons,  including  four 
natives  as  guides,  and  an  American  of  the  name  of  Lewis  Sacket,  as 
interpreter.  This  man  was  from  the  State  of  New  York,  and  was 
admirably  qualified  for  his  duties. 

By  the  advice  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Wilson,  the  party  took  the  route 
across  the  island  which  follows  the  Pappino  valley.  The  distance  on 
this  line,  to  Lake  Waiherea,  is  no  more  than  twenty-five  miles,  while 
by  that  which  follows  the  shores,  it  is  fifty  miles  before  the  point  at 
which  the  ascent  begins  is  reached.  None  of  the  guides  wrere 
acquainted  with  this  route,  and  it  was  therefore  necessary  to  find  a 
person  who  was.  For  this  purpose  they  in  the  first  place  proceeded 
towards  the  eastward  from  Matavai,  for  about  five  miles,  to  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Pappino,  which  they  reached  about  2  p.  M.  Here  they 
found  a  guide,  and  were  informed  that  the  stream  was  much  swollen : 
they  however  determined  to  go  forward,  and  were  accompanied  by  a 
troop  of  boys  and  girls  with  flowers.  Before  they  had  proceeded  far, 
they  reached  a  place  where  it  was  necessary  to  ford  the  stream,  which 
they  found  difficult  on  account  of  the  rapidity,  although  the  water  was 


26  TAHITI. 

only  three  feet  deep.  Other  fords  of  the  same  description  occurred 
every  few  rods,  until  they  at  last  reached  one  in  which  the  water 
reached  to  their  necks.  This  was  of  course  dangerous  to  those  who 
could  not  swim,  but  all  crossed  in  safety.  A  young  native,  as  if  in 
derision  of  the  difficulty  which  they  appeared  to  experience,  and  of 
their  effeminate  bringing  up,  dashed  into  the  flood,  and  was  seen 
plunging  down  the  rapids  in  sport,  and  evidently  with  great  enjoy- 
ment, although  frequently  wholly  immersed  in  the  foam.  Our  gentlemen 
had  now  an  opportunity  of  comparing  their  own  awkwardness  and 
want  of  ease  in  the  new  position  in  which  they  were  placed,  with  the 
agility  and  freedom  of  motion  exhibited  by  the  natives. 

The  whole  afternoon  was  thus  spent  in  travelling  about  three  miles, 
at  the  end  of  which  they  reached  some  huts,  in  which  they  passed  the 
night  comfortably.  These  huts  they  were  informed  had  been  erected 
by  natives,  who  wished  to  enjoy  a  carouse  of  ava,  far  from  the  notice  of 
the  judges,  and  free  from  the  intrusion  of  their  spies.  Here  they  were 
able  to  indulge  in  their  old  habits  of  debauchery,  which  not  unfre- 
quently  ended  in  riot  and  bloodshed. 

In  the  morning,  after  three  hours'  travelling,  during  which  they 
frequently  crossed  the  stream,  they  reached  a  place  where  a  branch 
of  it  came  in  from  the  southwest.  Some  natives  assured  them  that  by 
taking  this  route  they  might  reach  the  top  of  Pitohiti,  and  stated  that 
this  had  been  done  during  the  last  war  by  some  natives,  who  occupied 
it  as  a  place  of  refuge.  In  support  of  this  statement,  they  mentioned 
that  these  refugees  had  found  the  birds  so  tame  that  they  might  be 
taken  by  hand.  This  circumstance,  which,  from  its  apparent  incredi- 
bility, might  seem  to  disprove  the  statement,  is  in  fact  almost  positive 
evidence  of  its  truth,  when  compared  with  what  we  had  seen  of  the 
birds  in  uninhabited  islands,  where  their  habits  would  naturally  cor- 
respond to  those  secluded  in  the  mountain  solitudes  of  Tahiti. 

Here  they  learned  that  it  would  be  impracticable  to  accomplish  both 
objects  of  their  mission  within  the  time  for  which  they  were  furnished 
with  provisions.  It  was  therefore  resolved  to  divide  the  party  into  two 
detachments,  one  of  which  should  proceed  towards  the  lake,  and  the 
other  endeavour  to  ascend  the  mountain. 

It  was  in  this  place  that  the  last  battle  was  fought  between  the 
Christian  and  heathen  parties.  Paura,  their  guide,  pointed  out  all  the 
places  where  any  remarkable  incidents  of  the  conflict  had  occurred. 
He  seemed  to  take  particular  pleasure  in  drawing  the  attention  of  the 
party  to  two  places.  In  one  of  these  a  captain  had  his  head  beaten  to 
pieces,  and  the  other  was  a  precipice,  several  hundred  feet  in  height, 
over  which  the  defeated  party  had  been  driven  and  dashed  to  pieces. 


TAHITI.  27 

The  detachment  for  the  lake  pursued  its  route,  and  before  dark 
reached  the  solitary  residence  of  a  native  family,  called  Waiipi,  where 
they  were  hospitably  received,  and  lodged  in  a  building  used  as  a 
family  chapel.  This  dwelling  is  situated  in  a  romantic  gorge  at  the 
point  of  a  mountain,  and  its  existence  appears  to  have  been  unknown 
to  the  white  residents  of  the  coast. 

The  next  day  this  detachment  proceeded  up  the  bed  of  the  torrent, 
which  was  even  more  swollen  than  before.  They  were  now  sur- 
rounded with  the  wild  banana  or  fahie  (Musa  rubra),  having  its 
upright  spikes  loaded  with  its  beautiful  fruit.  Besides  these,  there 
were  many  tree-ferns  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  high.  Most  of  the  trees 
were  covered  with  parasitic  plants,  which  grow  with  great  luxuriance. 
Leaving  the  bed  of  the  torrent,  they  soon  reached  the  dividing  ridge, 
which  from  observations  with  the  sympiesometer,  is  twenty-seven 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  The  summit  of  this  ridge  was  only  a  few 
paces  in  width,  and  was  covered  with  groves  of  fahies,  clinging,  and 
as  it  were  bound  by  numerous  vine?,  to  the  rock.  In  these  respects, 
the  surrounding  peaks  closely  resemble  it. 

The  view  from  the  point  of  the  ridge  which  they  had  reached,  is 
magnificent.  The  lake  lay  almost  beneath  them,  at  a  depth  of  about 
one  thousand  feet,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  perpendicular  cliffs,  and 
appearing  as  if  inaccessible,  while  numerous  streams  rushed  in  silvery 
foam  down  the  rocks ;  and  the  lake  itself  seemed  diminished  in  size 
by  the  vastness  of  the  precipices  which  enclose  it. 

In  spite  of  the  steepness  of  the  cliffs,  the  descent  to  the  lake  was 
accomplished  without  accident,  by  scrambling  down  the  bed  of  a 
small  stream,  although  they  were  compelled  to  stop  from  time  to  time, 
resting  upon  their  staves,  or  clinging  to  the  shrubs  and  roots,  while 
the  stones  they  had  set  in  motion  rushed  onwards,  accumulating  others 
in  their  course,  until  the  united  mass  equalled  an  avalanche. 

When  they  reached  the  edge  of  the  lake,  their  guides  constructed  a 
hut,  in  which  they  passed  the  night.  The  next  day  Lieutenant  Em- 
mons  made  a  survey  of  the  lake,  and  sounded  its  depth  from  a  raft. 
It  was  found  to  be  half  a  mile  in  length,  a  third  of  a  mile  in  breadth, 
and  in  shape  nearly  oval.  The  depth  in  the  middle  was  ninety-six 
feet,  whence  it  gradually  decreases  to  the  edge.  It  had  rained  the 
whole  of  the  preceding  night,  and  the  lake  was  observed  to  rise  about 
five  feet  in  twenty  hours.  As  far  as  could  be  discovered,  it  has  no 
outlet ;  but  the  natives  assert  that  if  a  bread-fruit  be  thrown  into  the 
water,  it  will  make  its  appearance  at  a  spring,  which  gushes  from 
the  hill-side,  about  two  miles  north  of  Ooaigarra,  and  near  the 
sea.  The  height  of  the  surface  of  the  lake,  measured  by  the  sym- 


28  TAHITI. 

piesomcter,  is  about  one  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea. 

This  detachment  suffered  not  a  little  from  the  continual  rains,  by 
which  they  \vere  kept  constantly  wet,  and  from  being  obliged  to  sleep 
in  their  damp  clothes.  Their  guides  also  became  apprehensive  that 
they  would  experience  much  difficulty  in  their  descent  to  the  southern 
side  of  the  island,  in  consequence  of  the  Ooaigarra,  by  whose  valley 
the  only  route  lay,  becoming  so  much  swollen  as  to  be  dangerous. 
It  was,  therefore,  resolved  to  set  out  without  delay  ;  but  before  their 
preparations  were  completed,  they  were  joined  by  the  other  detach- 
ment. 

This  detachment  having  failed  in  reaching  the  summit  of  Orohena 
had  followed  the  route  of  the  others.  The  guides  who  led  the  moun- 
tain detachment  were  not  found  as  skilful  as  they  had  pretended.  On 
the  first  day,  after  many  unnecessary  turnings,  they  stated  that  it 
would  be  necessary  to  halt,  as  the  hour  was  late,  and  there  was  a  risk 
of  accident  from  falling,  or  from  being  crushed  by  stones,  for  which 
their  queen  would  be  held  responsible.  They  then,  after  much  search- 
ing, led  the  detachment  to  the  shelter  of  a  vast  projecting  boulder, 
where  the  ground  was  dry,  and  afforded  sufficient  room  to  lodge  fifty 
persons.  This  place  was  estimated  to  be  two  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  commanded  a  splendid  view  over  two  rich  valleys,  beyond 
which  the  sea  was  visible. 

The  fahies  were  in  great  abundance  around  them.  This  plant  is 
not  found  at  levels  lower  than  six  hundred  feet,  and  is  in  its  greatest 
perfection  at  the  height  of  fifteen  hundred  feet.  It  is  the  vai  of  Cook, 
and  is  thought  to  be  the  banana  in  its  wild  state.  It,  however,  differs 
much  in  the  manner  of  its  growth  from  the  cultivated  variety,  for  the 
fruit  grows  upon  an  upright  spike  rising  from  a  crown  of  leaves. 
The  fruit  has  the  same  shape  as  the  banana,  but  is  twice  as  large,  and 
is  of  a  deep  golden  hue,  with  pulp  of  dark  orange  colour.  It  is  desti- 
tute of  seeds,  has  a  taste  resembling  that  of  the  common  banana,  but 
of  a  higher  flavour,  and  the  natives  are  very  fond  of  it. 

This  shelter  was  reported  to  be  the  favourite  retreat  of  wild  hogs, 
but  the  detachment  was  not  disturbed  by  them,  and  passed  the  night 
without  any  other  disquiet  but  that  arising  from  the  possibility  that  the 
projecting  boulder,  under  which  they  were  lodged,  might  fall  and  crush 
them.  Old  Paura  made  fire  by  rubbing  a  pointed  stick  in  a  groove 
formed  in  another,  and  by  its  blaze  they,  after  a  change  of  clothing, 
found  themselves  very  comfortable. 

Mr.  Dana,  who  was  one  of  this  detachment,  was  so  unwell  the  next 
morning  as  to  be  compelled  to  return,  taking  one  of  the  guides  with 


TAHITI.  29 

him.  The  other  gentlemen,  Messrs.  Peale,  Pickering,  Couthouy,  and 
Brackenridge,  proceeded  forwards;  but  they  soon  found  that  the  guides 
had  no  intention  to  lead  them  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  during  the 
continuance  of  the  heavy  rains,  but  pursued  a  course  so  devious  and 
circuitous  as  to  make  it  probable  that  they  would  lose  the  chance  of 
seeing  either  the  mountain  or  the  lake.  They  felt  assured  that  the 
ascent,  under  more  favourable  circumstances,  would  have  been  practi- 
cable, but  were  satisfied  that  it  would  require  more  time  than  they 
could  spare.  Notwithstanding  their  disappointment,  they  were  com- 
pelled at  last  to  admit  that  the  guides  had  acted  wisely ;  for  during  the 
continuance  of  such  rains  as  afterwards  fell,  the  ascent  of  the  mountain 
would  not  only  have  been  difficult,  but  extremely  dangerous. 

Compelled  to  abandon  the  attempt,  they  followed  and  overtook  Mr. 
Dana,  and  then  turned  up  the  valley.  About  noon,  after  having 
crossed  the  stream  so  often  that  a  fourth  of  the  way  might  be  said  to 
be  by  water,  they  reached  the  residence  of  the  native  family  Waiipi. 

Dr.  Pickering  is  of  opinion  that  this  dwelling  would  be  an  excellent 
station  for  a  botanist.  It  has  a  rich  field  around  it.  and  is,  besides, 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  most  elevated  parts  of  the  island. 

They  did  not  stop  at  this  place,  but  proceeding  forwards  reached  a 
spot  called  by  the  natives  Opua,  where,  in  a  shelter  of  the  same  kind 
as  that  which  has  been  described  as  their  previous  bivouac,  they  spent 
the  night.  The  rain  fell  in  torrents,  and  about  midnight  a  violent 
thundergust  passed  through  the  valley. 

The  next  morning  they  went  on  towards  the  lake,  and  on  reaching 
the  crest  of  the  intervening  ridge,  the  weather  moderated,  and  gave 
them  an  opportunity  of  enjoying  the  extensive  prospect  it  commands. 
Besides  the  lake  at  their  feet,  as  seen  by  the  other  detachment,  they 
had  a  view  of  the  cleft  peak  of  Orohena,  at  the  distance  of  about  seven 
miles,  rising  from  five  thousand  to  six  thousand  feet  above  the  spot 
where  they  stood.  Descending  the  steep  sides  of  the  basin  of  the  lake, 
they  joined  the  other  detachment  about  noon. 

It  has  been  stated  that  the  lake  had  been  observed  to  rise  five  feet. 
It  was  now  evident  that  it  had  reached  as  high  a  level  as  its  waters 
ever  attain.  Many  plants  (such  as  the  Polygonums)  which  could  not 
live  long  under  such  circumstances,  were  found  entirely  submerged, 
and  the  water  had  reached  the  woody  plants  on  the  shores,  and 
threatened  their  speedy  destruction. 

The  proposed  line  of  descent  lay  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake, 
and  the  shores  are  so  precipitous  as  to  prevent  walking  around  it.  It 
became  necessary,  therefore,  to  cross  it  upon  a  raft,  which  was  a  slow 
process.  The  natives  swam  over.  After  crossing  the  lake,  the 


30  TAHITI. 

journey  was  continued,  but  it  became  necessary  to  stop  before  night, 
in  order  to  build  a  shelter  and  make  a  fire.  The  latter  was  a  difficult 
operation,  where  every  thing  was  dripping  with  water.  A  hut  was 
soon  built  of  boughs  of  the  banana,  and  thatched  with  its  leaves. 
This,  although  not  perfectly  water-tight,  served  their  purpose. 

Their  provisions  fortunately  held  out.  The  natives  after  every  meal 
had  been  careful  to  gather  up  all  the  remnants  of  food,  and  to  wrap 
them  in  banana-leaves,  by  which  all  waste  was  avoided.  They  had 
been  disappointed  in  obtaining  any  game,  or  any  fish  from  the  lake, 
both  of  which  had  been  calculated  upon.  Mr.  Peale  saw  nothing  to 
shoot  except  a  few  birds,  which  were  limited  to  four  or  five  species, 
among  which  were  swallows,  tropic-birds,  and  small  herons.  In  the 
lake,  nothing  was  seen,  although  it  had  been  represented  as'  full  of 
huge  eels. 

In  the  morning  they  rose  early  and  began  the  descent,  which  was 
slow  and  fatiguing.  They  found  the  Ooaigarra  very  rapid,  and  were 
compelled  to  cross  it  frequently.  In  this  their  clothing  was  an  encum- 
brance, for  it  remained  wet,  and  was  consequently  heavy,  while  the 
natives,  being  naked,  became  dry  in  a  few  minutes  after  they  emerged 
from  the  water.  This  toilsome  descent  occupied  about  four  hours. 

The  first  inhabited  place  they  reached  was  Mirapahe,  where  the 
Ooaigarra  runs  into  the  sea.  This  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
island,  near  the  isthmus  by  which  the  two  peninsulas  are  united. 

Most  of  the  party  were  now  exhausted  by  fatigue,  so  that  it  was 
with  some  difficulty  that  any  of  them  proceeded  onwards  to  Ooari- 
teeva,  while  a  canoe  was  procured  for  those  who  were  most  overcome. 
Here  they  were  hospitably  received  by  Teharo,  the  son  of  the  governor, 
Taati,  who  was  himself  absent,  and  took  up  their  quarters  at  the  house 
of  the  latter. 

It  was  Wednesday  evening,  (by  the  account  of  the  island,)  and  the 
natives  were  attending  lecture  in  the  church.  Some  of  our  gentlemen 
entered  the  congregation,  and  excited  some  sensation  among  the 
younger  part  of  the  assembly;  far  less,  however,  than  would  be 
evinced  should  a  Tahitian  enter  one  of  our  churches.  The  service 
was  performed  by  a  native,  and  consisted  of  praying,  reading  the 
Bible,  and  singing.  The  old  people  appeared  very  devout,  and  it  was 
remarked  that  many  of  them  were  provided  with  spectacles,  to  enable 
them  to  follow  the  reader  in  their  own  books. 

The  reading  was  performed  in  a  low  monotonous  tone ;  and  the 
hymn  was  sung  to  an  old  English  tune,  with  considerable  taste,  by 
the  female  part  of  the  congregation. 

The  assembly  consisted  of  about  one  hundred  persons,  three-fourths 


TAHITI. 


33 


mond  of  the  Mission  resides.  Taati,  who  has  been  named  as  one  of 
the  great  chiefs,  has  his  usual  abode  here,  but  was  absent  on  a  visit  to 
the  ships.  Mr.  Orsmond  was  kind  enough  to  offer  to  such  of  the  party 
as  felt  too  much  fatigued  to  proceed  farther  on  foot,  a  passage  to 
Papieti  in  his  boat. 

The  coral  reef  is  interrupted  in  front  of  the  small  bay  which  makes 
up  to  Papara,  and  the  surf  dashes  with  some  violence  against  the 
shore  ;  but  the  passage,  except  for  a  short  distance,  was  made  within 
the  reef,  and  in  smooth  water. 

As  Taati  was  absent,  one  of  his  sons,  (and  he  is  reported  to  have  a 
dozen,)  did  the  honours  of  the  house,  and  provided  them  with  break- 
fast. This  consisted  of  pig,  taro,  and  bread-fruit,  the  standing  dishes 
of  Tahiti.  The  table  was  covered  with  a  cloth  made  of  Russia 
sheeting,  and  furnished  with  plates,  cups  and  saucers,  knives,  forks,  and 
spoons. 

In  this  place,  also,  a  large  portion  of  the  population,  and  particularly 
of  the  women,  assembled  to  have  a  look  at  the  strangers.  It  was  re- 
marked that  there  was  more  beauty  among  the  young  girls  than  they 
had  before  seen  upon  the  island.  Many  of  them  had  their  heads  gaily 
and  tastefully  ornamented  with  flowers. 

On  leaving  Papara  they  were  accompanied  by  a  bevy  of  these  gay 
damsels,  laughing  and  enjoying  themselves  with  each  other,  and  with 
the  guides.  The  latter  had  also  stuck  the  scarlet  Rosa  Sinensis  through 
the  lobes  of  the  ears,  and  decorated  their  heads  with  wreaths  after  the 
manner  of  the  girls. 

At  Papara,  the  coast  begins  to  wind  to  the  northwest,  and  gradually 
inclines  more  to  the  northward.  Their  route  again  lay  along  the 
Broom  Road,  which  extends  completely  around  the  island.  It  is  in 
places  almost  arched  over  by  trees,  that  grow  on  each  side  of  it,  and 
form  a  delightful  shade.  It  may  be  termed  a  national  work,  and  but 
for  its  want  of  width,  would  bear  comparison  with  many  of  the  turn- 
pikes in  the  United  States.  The  streams  which  intersect  it  have  all 
been  once  crossed  by  good  bridges  of  plank,  but  these  are  now  going 
to  decay. 

At  short  intervals  are  groves  of  cocoa-nut  trees,  planted  along  the 
road  ;  these  are  called  the  queen's,  and  travellers  are  at  liberty  to  help 
themselves  to  the  fruit.  The  private  groves  whose  fruit  it  is  wished  to 
protect,  are  tabooed.  This  is  indicated  by  tying  a  girdle  of  leaves 
around  them,  and  this  simple  signal  is  still  respected,  although  the 
superstition  on  which  its  sanctity  was  founded  has  ceased  to  prevail. 
The  natives  travel  a  great  deal  on  this  road,  and  some  use  it  in  going 

VOL.  II.  5 


34  T  A  H  I  T  I. 

to  visit  places  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  island,  in  preference  to 
passing  over  the  mountains. 

At  sunset  they  reached  Otapuna,  which  is  a  large  village,  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  low  point  of  land,  covered  with  orange,  bread-fruit,  and 
cocoa-nut  trees.  In  this  place  Utami,  one  of  the  principal  chiefs, 
who  is  governor  of  this  district,  resides.  With  him  our  travellers  took 
up  their  quarters.  His  dwelling  differs  from  other  native  houses,  in 
being  divided  into  rooms,  and  having  floors  of  plank ;  indeed  every 
thing  about  his  establishment  indicated  more  refinement  than  they  had 
yet  met  with.  His  table  was  set  out  after  the  European  fashion,  and 
he  gave  them  tea  made  of  a  native  herb. 

Utami  is  a  very  intelligent  person,  and  had  been  one  of  Pomare's 
great  captains.  He  related  many  anecdotes  of  the  struggle  in  1815, 
which  by  his  account  appeared  to  have  been  a  sanguinary  one.  He 
stated,  that  on  the  retreat  of  the  heathen  party,  all  their  prisoners 
were  put  to  death,  by  beating  out  their  brains  with  clubs ;  that 
numbers  of  them  had  been  forced  over  precipices  ;  and  that,  many 
had  fled  even  to  the  summits  of  the  mountains,  where  they  remained 
until  a  general  pardon  and  amnesty  had  been  proclaimed  by  Pomare. 
Even  this  was  not  accepted  by  all,  for  many  remained  in  the  wild  and 
dreary  regions  of  the  mountains,  refusing  to  embrace  the  new  religion  ; 
and  of  these  some  had  continued  to  exist  until  within  the  last  five  or 
six  years.  Utami  was  of  opinion  that  this  remnant  was  now  extinct. 

Among  other  things,  he  informed  them  that  the  wild  race  which  had 
previously  inhabited  the  island,  were  accustomed  to  roam  all  over  it ; 
but  that  since  they  had  been  subdued  or  exterminated,  none  but  the 
cutters  of  sandal-wood  had  been  accustomed  to  enter  the  mountainous 
regions.  These  had  been  in  the  habit  of  ascending  the  most  difficult 
peaks  by  the  aid  of  ropes,  and  of  steps  cut  in  the  rock,  but  he  was  of 
opinion  that  no  one  now  remained  who  knew  the  way. 

Utami  was  a  fine-looking  white-headed  man,  of  giant  proportions, 
and  when  speaking  of  his  former  deeds  in  arms,  showed  a  great  deal 
of  fire  and  animation.  Before  he  retired  to  rest  he  read  a  chapter  in 
the  Bible,  and  made  a  prayer,  with  much  apparent  devotion.  He 
seems  to  have  a  great  disposition  to  adopt  European  improvements, 
and  was  engaged  in  building  a  house,  which  when  finished  will  be  the 
best  in  the  island.  The  floors  will  be  all  laid  with  plank  ;  it  will  have 
partitions  of  boards,  and  large  windows  with  Venetian  blinds. 

This  village  is  the  next  in  size  and  importance  to  Papieti. 

When  this  party  first  descended  to  the  beach  and  reached  Mirapahe, 
they  found  a  vessel  on  the  stocks  there.  This  enabled  them  to  obtain 


TAHITI.  35 

some  information  in  relation  to  the  naval  architecture  of  Tahiti.  The 
vessel  was  a  small  schooner,  and  the  building  of  it  was  superintended 
by  a  Yankee.  The  timber  employed  was  that  called  by  the  natives 
mape,  (Inocarpus  edulis,)  which  is  said  to  be  of  excellent  quality. 
The  supply  of  this  wood  is,  however,  limited.  The  poorou  (Hibiscus 
tiliaceus,)  is  also  employed  in  ship-building,  but  it  can  only  be  pro- 
cured of  small  size,  and  is  therefore  unfit  for  the  structure  of  many 
parts  of  a  vessel. 

Several  vessels  of  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  tons  burden  have 
already  been  built  upon  the  island.  These  have  been  employed  in  the 
trade  to  New  South  Wales,  whither  they  carry  sugar,  cocoa-nut  oil, 
and  arrow-root,  and  whence  they  bring  back  in  return  hardware, 
cloths,  calicoes,  &c.  In  the  ports  of  New  South  Wales  they  pay  the 
same  duties  and  charges  as  British  bottoms. 

The  commercial  resources  of  these  islands  are  very  limited ;  most 
of  the  vessels  that  visit  Tahiti  are  those  belonging  to  our  whaling 
fleet :  these  average  less  than  a  hundred  annually.  From  them  the 
natives  are  enabled  to  dispose  of  some  of  the  supplies  they  raise,  and 
in  return  obtain  such  articles  as  will  promote  their  comfort  and  add 
to  their  pleasure.  The  whale-ships,  for  the  most  part,  have  articles 
of  trade  which  they  barter  with  the  natives,  so  that  little  money  is 
required  to  carry  on  their  business.  The  natives,  particularly  the 
chiefs,  are  however  well  acquainted  with  the  value  of  money.  An  esti- 
mate has  been  made  that  each  of  these  vessels  introduces  goods  into  the 
islands  to  the  amount  of  8500  each,  making  a  total  amount  of  850,000  ; 
but  I  very  much  question  whether  it  can  reach  this  extent;  and  if  this 
amount  be  sold,  it  must  include  the  profits :  half  the  sum,  I  should 
think,  was  a  large  estimate. 

The  few  other  vessels  that  visit  the  islands  bring  little  cargo ;  if 
two  arrive  at  the  same  time,  they  destroy  each  other's  ventures  by 
glutting  the  markets. 

The  pearl-shell  fishery  of  the  Paumotu  Group  centres  here.  I  was 
told  it  was  principally  in  the  hands  of  the  French  consul.  For  a  few 
years  before  our  arrival,  viz.,  from  1832  to  '38,  it  had  been  very  pro- 
ductive. The  amount  obtained  was  about  nine  hundred  tons,  which 
was  estimated  to  be  valued  at  845,000  to  850,000 ;  the  greater  part  of 
this  was  sent  to  France.  Of  the  agricultural  products  they  have  little 
to  dispose  of  as  yet;  neither  is  the  island  susceptible  of  any  very 
extended  operations,  to  induce  vessels  to  visit  it  exclusively  for  its 
trade  or  productions.  The  three  chief  articles  of  production  are 
sugar,  cocoa-nut  oil,  and  arrow-root.  The  following  statement  was 
furnished  me  of  the  quantities  produced. 


in  .a      i  ,iiiv!  v»  ..,  i. ,.-..,i. i.h 


T A  I  AR ABF 


i:    :«i 


CHAPTER  II. 

TAHITI   AND    E  I  M  E  O. 

1839. 

THE  Porpoise,  having  been  refitted,  was  sent  to  sea  on  the  20th 
September,  for  the  purpose  of  again  visiting  the  west  end  of  Nairsa  or 
Dean's  Island,  with  Krusenstern's  and  Lazareff.  She  was  also  ordered 
to  pass  over  the  supposed  locality  of  Recreation  Island,  and  then  to 
meet  the  Vincennes  at  Rose  Island,  the  easternmost  of  the  Samoan  or 
Navigator's  Group.* 

A  stormy  evening  having  occurred  previous  to  our  leaving  Matavai 
Bay,  "  Jim,"  the  pilot,  desired  to  see  me ;  on  his  coming  into  the 
cabin,  to  my  great  amusement,  he  urged  me  to  allow  him  to  go  to 
Papieti,  where  he  was  sure  he  would  be  wanted ;  and  when  I  asked 
for  what  purpose,  he  told  me  that  the  "  thunder  and  lightning  would 
bring  in  ships  of  war."  He  was  displeased  when  I  laughed  and  said, 
that  as  he  was  engaged  on  board  my  ship,  I  would  wait  until  I  saw 
the  ships  before  I  could  give  him  permission.  He  then  reminded  me 
of  the  night  before  we  arrived,  when  there  was  plenty  of  thunder  and 
lightning,  and  that  he  had  told  me  as  soon  as  he  came  on  board  that 
he  expected  us.  He  went  on  to  repeat  that  he  was  sure  that  they 
would  want  him  early  in  the  morning  at  Papieti,  but  I  persisted  in  my 
refusal;  and  in  the  morning  he  appeared  much  disconcerted  to  find 
that  there  was  nothing  in  sight  out  of  which  he  could  make  a  ship  of 
war. 

The  surveys  of  the  four  harbours  of  Matavai,  Papaoa,  Toanoa,  and 
Papieti,  had  been,  as  stated  in  the  preceding  chapter,  commenced  soon 
after  our  arrival ;  they  had  made  considerable  progress  before  the 

*  A  copy  of  the  orders  will  be  found  in  Appendix  III. 

(33) 


40  T  A  II  I  T  I    A  N  D    E  I  M  E  O. 

departure  of  the  Vincennes,  and  were  subsequently  completed  by  the 
officers  of  the  Peacock.* 

I  was  desirous,  in  addition,  of  ascertaining  with  precision  the  least 
depth  of  water  on  the  Dolphin  Shoal,  and  had  employed  boats  in 
making  accurate  soundings.  The  results,  however,  were  so  unsatis- 
factory, on  account  of  the  ever-varying  level  of  the  tide,  that  I  could 
not  hope  that  they  would  serve  for  a  reference  by  which  to  ascertain 
the  future  increase  of  this  bank,  by  the  growth  of  the  coral.  I  there- 
fore planted  a  large  stone,  with  a  horizontal  surface,  and  having  found 
the  shoalest  place  on  the  bank,  carefully  measured  the  difference  in  the 
height  of  the  surface  of  the  stone  and  the  rock  of  the  bank,  by  an 
excellent  spirit-level.  I  then  caused  a  mark  to  be  traced  upon  the 
surface  of  the  stone  pointing  towards  the  place  on  the  bank  where  the 
levelling-staff  had  been  placed.  The  difference  of  level  was  twenty- 
five  feet  seven  inches.  Old  Taua,  the  chief  of  the  district,  promised 
me  that  he  would  taboo  the  stone,  and  that  it  should  not  be  touched  or 
disturbed  on  any  account ;  and,  to  preserve  it  from  any  accidental 
disturbance,  it  was  set  four  feet  into  the  ground. 

The  Vincennes  moved  to  the  harbour  of  Papieti  on  the  22d  Septem- 
ber. At  the  same  time,  orders  were  given  to  the  Peacock  and  Flying- 
Fish  to  take  on  board  their  articles  from  Point  Venus,  and  to  follow 
as  soon  as  they  had  done  so.  The  tender  required  some  repairs,  which 
could  be  done  with  more  safety  at  Papieti.  Both  vessels  joined  us  in 
that  harbour  on  the  24th. 

In  proceeding  to  Papieti,  we  left  Matavai  Bay  in  the  morning,  and 
within  a  few  hours  had  anchored  in  the  harbour  of  the  former  place. 
No  soundings  are  to  be  had  beyond  the  line  of  reefs,  and  consequently 
there  is  no  anchorage ;  the  outer  wall  of  the  reef  surrounding  the 
island  is  in  fact  perpendicular,  with  the  exception  of  some  projecting 
patches  in  Matavai  Bay,  and  to  the  eastward  of  Point  Venus.  On  the 
latter  the  French  frigate  Artemise  struck,  in  1836. 

At  the  season  of  the  year  when  we  made  this  short  passage,  there 
is  some  danger  to  be  apprehended  in  entering  the  harbour  of  Papieti, 
and  much  caution  is  therefore  necessary.  The  trades  at  this  season 
are  irregular,  and  the  winds  which  prevail  are  light ;  they  also  are 
most  apt  to  fail  at  the  critical  moment  when  the  vessel  is  at  the 
entrance  of  the  narrow  passage  through  the  reefs,  in  which  case  the 
current,  which  rushes  strongly  out  and  sometimes  across  the  passage, 
may  cause  a  vessel  to  drift  upon  the  western  reef.  The  proper  mode 
of  guarding  against  this,  is  to  keep  the  vessel  as  close  as  possible  to 
the  eastern  reef. 

*  The  chart  of  these  harbours  will  be  found  in  the  Hydrographical  Atlas. 


TAHITI    AND    E  I  M  E  O. 


41 


The  scenery  at  Papieti  is  remarkable ;  the  background  is  filled  up 
with  a  number  of  pinnacle-shaped  mountains,  jutting  up  in  a  great 
variety  of  forms  ;  beneath,  and  directly  in  front  of  them,  lies  the  semi- 
circular harbour,  surrounded  by  the  white  cottages  and  churches  of 
the  village,  embosomed  in  luxuriant  foliage ;  these  dwellings  have  a 
peaceful  and  home-like  look,  to  the  eye  of  an  American.  In  front,  the 
little  coral  island  of  Moto-utu  forms  an  embellished  foreground,  and 
serves  to  break  the  regularity  of  the  line  of  the  harbour,  while  by  con- 
cealing its  extent,  it  gives  it  an  air  of  greater  magnitude  than  it  in 
reality  possesses.  To  my  eye,  this  view  combined  within  itself  a 
perfect  picture  of  Polynesian  scenery,  enhanced  in  beauty  by  the  signs 
of  civilization,  among  which  was  the  national  flag  of  Tahiti,  waving 
from  a  fortress  on  Moto-utu. 

The  purpose  of  my  visit  to  Papieti  had  originally  been  to  go  through 
the  ceremony  of  receiving  the  great  chiefs  on  board,  when,  according 
to  custom,  presents  are  made  them  ;  but  before  this  was  done,  I  deter- 
mined that  the  business,  which  I  had  laid  before  the  council,  as  stated 
in  the  preceding  chapter,  should  be  adjusted.  This  was  done  satisfac- 
torily on  the  22d,  when  they  assented  to  all  that  had  been  asked  of 
them.  I  am  convinced  that  their  conduct  in  this  matter  was  dictated 
throughout  by  a  sense  of  what  is  right,  and  am  satisfied  that  if  griev- 
ances do  exist,  it  is  only  necessary  to  state  them,  when,  if  redress  is 
within  their  power,  it  will  be  granted. 

Agreeably  to  my  invitation,  Uata,  who  appeared  as  the  representa- 
tive of  the  queen,  the  two  princesses,  IXinito  and  Taii,  and  all  the  head 
chiefs,  visited  the  ship,  accompanied  by  the  foreign  consuls.  The  ship 
was  dressed  for  the  occasion  with  flags,  and  they  were  received  with 
every  mark  of  respect.  Luncheon  was  prepared  for  them  ;  and  when 
they  were  all  seated  at  it,  it  struck  me  that  I  had  never  seen  such  a 
collection  of  corpulent  persons.  Previous  to  eating,  one  of  the  oldest 
chiefs  said  grace.  Their  appetites  were  good ;  none  of  the  food 
appeared  to  come  amiss.  They  seemed  heartily  to  enjoy  themselves, 
and  conducted  themselves  with  a  propriety  that  surprised  us  all.  They 
were  cautious  in  partaking  of  the  wine  which  was  set  before  them, 
and  seemed  evidently  upon  their  good  behaviour.  This  was  the  case 
with  the  high  chiefs,  who,  to  the  number  of  about  fifteen,  had  been 
invited  ;  but,  besides  these,  about  an  equal  number  of  others  contrived 
to  get  on  board  without  invitation ;  the  latter  thrust  themselves  forward 
with  eagerness  to  occupy  places  at  the  table,  but  were  compelled  to 
give  place  to  those  of  higher  rank.  A  second  table  was,  however, 
prepared  for  them,  at  which  they  took  their  seats,  and  did  ample  justice 
to  what  was  set  before  them. 


42  TAHITIANDEIMEO. 

The  variety  of  costume  which  was  exhibited  at  this  banquet  was 
amusing.  The  princesses  were  dressed  in  white  frocks,  shoes  and 
stockings,  and  chip  bonnets,  but  looked  awkwardly  in  them,  and 
appeared  more  like  boys  in  girls'  clothes  than  women.  Some  of  the 
men  wore  full  suits, — coats,  vests,  and  pantaloons, — of  a  variety  of 
colours ;  others  had  sailors'  round  jackets  ;  others  again  had  only  shirts 
and  pantaloons,  all  too  small,  both  in  breadth  and  length.  Some  had 
black  felt  hats,  of  all  possible  fashions,  and  others  wore  them  of  straw  ; 
some  had  shoes  on  their  feet,  others  had  none. 

Paofai's  son  attracted  attention  by  his  ridiculous  appearance :  he 
wore  a  red  check  shirt,  light  white  pantaloons,  that  reached  only  half 
way  down  his  legs,  coarse  shoes  without  stockings,  and  a  short-skirted 
drummer's  coat  of  blue,  plentifully  faced  with  scarlet.  The  latter  was 
so  small  for  him,  that  no  force  would  make  it  button  upon  him.  To 
finish  all,  he  had  a  high-crowned  conical  felt  hat  stuck  upon  the  top  of 
his  head. 

After  luncheon,  they  repaired  to  the  deck,  to  receive  the  presents 
prepared  for  them.  These  I  had  been  advised,  in  order  to  avoid 
unpleasant  scenes,  to  pack  in  bundles,  assorted  to  the  rank  of  the 
parties.  In  spite  of  this  precaution,  much  consultation  took  place 
among  them,  and  a  desire  to  exchange  with  one  another  was  mani- 
fested. This  was  particularly  the  case  with  our  old  acquaintance 
Taua,  and  his  friend  Otore,  the  ex-minister  and  former  favourite  of 
the  queen.  The  presents  for  the  queen  and  royal  family  were  com- 
mitted to  the  charge  of  Uata,  who,  as  has  been  stated,  appeared  as  the 
representative  of  her  majesty. 

Otore,  who  has  been  just  named,  is  only  a  petty  chief,  but  had  been 
the  queen's  favourite  and  minister,  until  he  was  dismissed  in  conse- 
quence of  his  frequent  indulgence  in  intoxication.  He  is  considered  as 
the  greatest  orator  on  the  island.  He  and  Taua  are  boon  companions, 
and  were  continually  on  board  the  vessels,  where  they  so  timed  their 
visits  that  the  hour  of  breakfast  was  sure  to  find  them  either  actually 
seated  at  table  or  awaiting  an  invitation.  Although  at  first  welcome, 
the  habitual  intrusion  of  these  and  others  upon  the  messes,  finally  became 
an  annoyance,  and  on  board  the  Peacock  they  had  at  last  recourse  to 
"  clearing  the  ship  of  strangers"  during  meals.  Taua  did  not  mind 
this ;  and  when  we  left  Matavai,  he  was  so  kind  as  to  remove  to 
Papieti,  in  order  to  be  near  his  friends. 

Among  other  visitors  on  this  occasion,  I  had  the  honour  of  the 
company  of  General  Freyre,  formerly  President  of  Chili,  who  has 
chosen  Tahiti  as  his  residence.  It  gave  me  great  pleasure  to  become 
acquainted  with  him,  particularly  as  I  had  it  in  my  power  to  give  him 


TAHITI    AND    EIMEO. 


43 


recent  news  from  his  own  country  and  Peru,  which  he  was  desirous 
of  hearing.  He  spoke  much  of  the  deprivation  he  suffered  by  a  sepa- 
ration from  his  family,  and  from  the  want  of  society,  but  uttered  not  a 
\vord  of  complaint  against  his  enemies. 

He  lives  in  a  small  cottage  on  the  bank  of  the  harbour  at  Papieti, 
where  he  is  highly  respected  ;  his  manner  and  whole  deportment  are 
gentlemanly;  he  is  tall  and  robust,  with  a  florid  complexion,  and 
appears  about  fifty-five  years  of  age.  In  the  chapter  on  Chili,  his 
public  acts  have  been  sufficiently  enlarged  upon;  and  although  his 
political  course  may  have  been  much  condemned,  I  can  bear  testimony 
to  the  high  estimation  in  which  his  private  character  is  held  in  his 
native  country. 


There  are  many  pretty  walks  about  Tahiti ;  the  small  streams,  flow- 
ing through  luxuriant  woods,  add  much  to  its  beauty ;  these  run  bubbling 
along  to  the  sea,  passing  many  cool  and  pleasant  places  :  their  entrances 
are  usually  closed  up  by  the  natives,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  fish,  a.  sort 
of  darn  being  constructed,  over  which  the  waters  flow,  and  the  natives, 
standing  on  the  outside  up  to  their  waists  in  water,  are  often 
seen  taking  the  fish  in  baskets.  The  sketch  by  Mr.  Agate  is  charac- 
teristic. 

On  arriving  at  Tahiti,  or  indeed  at  any  of  the  islands,  respect  is  natu- 
rally due  to  the  chiefs ;  this,  I  am  assured,  was  felt  by  us  all ;  but  long 


44  TAHITI    AND    EIMEO. 

before  sailing  we  became  disgusted  with  seeing  these  large  and  n  ible- 
looking  men  passing  from  ship  to  ship,  even  including  Paofai  himself, 
soliciting  foul  linen  to  wash,  and  performing  other  services  that  were 
not  in  keeping  with  their  rank.  There  is  one,  however,  whom  I  must 
do  justice  to, — Hitoti.  He  maintained  the  character  given  him  by 
Captain  Beechey.  I  was  much  pleased  with  his  whole  deportment  on 
his  visit  to  me,  and  also  when  I  saw  him  at  his  own  house ;  he  paid  but 
two  visits  to  the  ship,  and  those  within  a  day  or  two  of  our  departure. 
That  he  did  not  visit  the  vessels  before,  was  in  order,  as  was  supposed, 
to  avoid  the  suspicion  of  trespassing  on  our  liberality ;  he  refused  to 
accept  any  presents,  and  would  only  drink  wine  when  requested,  per- 
forming all  the  little  couriesies  of  the  table  with  grace  and  politeness. 

On  his  visit  to  the  Peacock,  Lieutenant  Emmons  and  Mr.  Hale  being 
the  only  gentlemen  on  board,  received  him  with  the  attentions  due  his 
rank;  when  taking  leave,  he  requested  to  know  their  names,  which 
were  given  to  him  in  English  orthography ;  he  at  once  took  out  his 
pencil,  and  with  great  readiness  wrote  them  in  the  Tahitian  dialect,  as 
"  Emaani"  and  "  Helavi !" 

Dr.  Pickering  and  Mr.  Couthouy  being  desirous  of  making  another 
attempt  to  reach  the  top  of  Orohena,  I  willingly  gave  them  the  longest 
leave  possible,  to  effect  their  object.  They  determined  on  attempting 
the  ascent  of  the  ridge  leading  directly  up  from  Matavai  Bay,  as  the 
one  that  had  appeared  to  them  most  practicable.  Lewis  Sacket.  who 
has  already  been  spoken  of,  was  again  their  interpreter ;  for  guide,  Mr. 
Wilson  recommended  an  old  man  by  the  name  of  Vahaore,  who  was 
said  to  be  the  only  person  now  living  who  had  visited  the  top  of  Oro- 
hena ;  in  this  selection  they  were  fortunate :  Vahaore  had  been  in  his 
youth  a  great  warrior,  and  his  looks  did  not  belie  it ;  he  was  of  the 
middle  size,  thin  and  sinewy,  and  with  a  fine  eye;  although  past  sixty 
years  of  age,  he  had  scarcely  a  gray  hair ;  his  gait  was  firm  and  his 
carriage  erect ;  he  was  constant  in  his  attention  to  his  duties,  and 
rarely  spoke  unless  relative  to  his  business. 

After  the  guides  had  been  engaged,  our  gentlemen  passed  the  night 
in  a  native  house  close  by,  ready  to  start  at  an  early  hour.  At  day- 
light, Vahaore  and  his  son  were  provided  with  ropes ;  the  reason  the 
old  man  gave  for  taking  his  son  was  that  he  might  be  able  to  learn  the 
way.  They  now  set  out,  and  by  nine  o'clock  had  reached  a  higher 
point  than  at  any  time  on  their  former  journey :  this  was  about  three 
thousnnd  five  hundred  feet,  and  was  attained  after  having  walked  six 
miles ;  when  they  had  reached  the  altitude  of  fifteen  hundred  feet  they 
no  longer  found  any  paths ;  on  arriving  at  this  point,  they  halted  for 
some  time  to  make  collections  of  land-shells,  and  some  very  interesting 


TAHITI   AN  DEIMEQ.  45 

specimens  were  obtained  of  Helices,  Palulas,  Cyclostomas,  Curocollas, 
and  Pupas ;  after  this  they  continued  ascending,  the  ridge  gradually 
becoming  narrower,  until  they  reached  a  spot  on  the  ridge  where  there 
was  not  room  for  one  person  to  pass  by  another,  and  where  they  could 
look  down  a  precipice  on  each  side  to  depths  of  two  thousand  feet. 

Plants  that  were  below  of  small  size  here  grew  into  large  woody 
shrubs  ;  among  them  a  species  of  Epacris  was  found  growing  luxuri- 
antly along  the  crest  of  the  ridges,  and  magnificent  arborescent  ferns 
on  the  mountain  sides,  some  of  them  forty  feet  in  height ;  another 
species  was  seen  whose  fronds  were  more  than  twenty  feet  in  length. 
Their  path  was  much  impeded  by  the  tangled  ferns  and  wiry  grass 
(Gleichenia),  which  it  was  impossible  to  get  through  without  the  aid 
of  a  knife  or  a  hatchet.  They  had  now  reached  four  thousand  five 
hundred  feet,  the  highest  point  yet  attained,  according  to  the  guide,  by 
white  men;  two  o'clock  had  arrived,  and  as  there  was  no  place  where 
they  could  encamp,  or  any  chance  of  reaching  a  point  suitable  for 
passing  the  night  in,  by  the  advice  of  Vahaore  they  allowed  him  to 
look  for  one.  The  mountain  top  was  still  estimated  to  be  six  miles 
distant ;  they  had  little  doubt  that  it  could  be  ascended  by  following  the 
ridge,  and  it  was  thought  that  they  could  accomplish  the  task  if  time 
permitted.  The  day  was  fine,  and  they  enjoyed  a  view  of  the  whole 
mountain,  which  appeared  as  if  it  were  the  centre,  from  which  the 
different  ridges  of  the  island  radiate  in  ten  or  twelve  directions  towards 
the  coast,  having  deep  and  narrow  valleys  between  them,  through 
which  the  mountain  torrents  rush  ;  these  valleys  spread  out  as  they 
approach  the  coast,  and  the  ridges  become  more  rounded  and 
accessible. 

After  reconnoitring  the  ground  for  some  time,  Vahaore  recollected 
a  place  where  they  might  pass  the  night,  which  he  thought  was  not  far 
distant.  He  therefore  immediately  began  to  break  a  road,  which  he 
continued  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  along  the  ridge.  He  then 
reached  a  place  where  the  descent  might  be  made,  which,  however, 
to  all  appearances,  presented  as  few  facilities  for  the  purpose  as  any 
they  had  before  looked  at.  They,  however,  tried  it,  and  after  a  hard 
scramble  reached,  about  sunset,  the  place  he  sought.  The  descent  was 
estimated  to  be  about  two  thousand  feet,  and  was  performed  partly  by 
leaping  from  tree  to  tree,  and  partly  by  lowering  one  another  by  ropes 
over  precipitous  ledges  from  ten  to  twelve  feet  in  height.  In  the 
words  of  Sacket,  "  No  man  in  his  senses  ever  went  down  such  a  place 
before,  and  none  but  a  fool  would  attempt  to  do  so  again."  At  the  foot 
of  the  descent  lay  the  first  valley,  and  they  found  themselves  among 
groves  of  the  wild  banana  (fahics). 


46  TAHITI    AND    EIMEO. 

A  temporary  shelter  was  soon  constructed  on  the  banks  of  a  moun- 
tain stream,  which  ran  headlong  by.  In  this,  Vahaore  amused  himself 
by  catching  eels,  a  sport  in  which  he  was  expert,  and  which  he  per- 
formed in  the  following  manner:  having  found  a  small  basin  at  the  foot 
of  the  cliff,  in  which  an  eel  was  concealed,  he  placed  a  large  flat  stone 
in  the  middle  of  it,  and  began  to  bale  out  the  water  with  his  hands ;  he 
next  disturbed  the  fish,  which  sought  shelter  beneath  the  stone,  when, 
by  cautiously  introducing  his  hands,  he  contrived  to  grasp  it,  and  by  a 
sudden  jerk  threw  it  thirty  or  forty  feet  into  the  woods,  where  he 
easily  secured  it.  In  this  manner,  two  eels  were  taken,  nearly  four  feet 
in  length,  and  as  thick  as  a  man's  arm.  The  eels  were  not  skinned, 
but  carefully  cleaned  and  washed ;  they  were  then  wrapped  in  leaves, 
and  cooked  in  the  usual  Polynesian  manner.  Thus  prepared,  they 
proved  a  great  delicacy.  These  eels,  although  much  esteemed  by  the 
natives,  appear  to  be  almost  unknown  to  the  white  residents. 

The  idea  of  ascending  the  peak  was  now  abandoned,  and  in  the 
morning  they  set  out  on  their  return  to  the  coast.  In  their  route,  they 
crossed  several  spurs  of  the  main  ridge ;  about  noon  they  again  halted, 
and  employed  themselves  in  making  collections,  while  Vahaore  again 
went  a  fishing.  He  soon  returned  with  three  eels,  the  largest  of  which 
was  upwards  of  three  feet  in  length.  These  eels  are  of  a  uniform  dark 
olive  colour  on  the  back,  which  passes  on  the  belly  to  a  dirty  white. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  they  reached  the  lower  valley,  with  the  stream 
called  Pappiamatia,  about  twenty  yards  wide,  and  from  two  to  three 
feet  deep,  running  down  it.  About  five  miles  from  the  coast  they 
passed  a  range  of  basaltic  columns,  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  length ;  the 
cliff  presenting  a  perpendicular  wall,  rising  up  at  the  east  side  of  the 
stream,  formed  columns,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high  ;  the  number 
of  sides  varied  from  four  to  seven,  and  their  diameter  from  nine  inches 
to  two  feet.  The  ridge  at  whose  base  this  was  found,  was  upwards 
of  two  thousand  feet  high.  The  party  reached  Matavai  Bay  at  sunset. 

The  ridge  that  our  gentlemen  followed,  is  considered  by  them  as 
the  most  feasible  route  to  the  summit  of  Orohena  ;  the  greatest  difficulty 
with  which  the  attempt  is  attended  arises  from  the  dislike  of  the  natives 
to  visit  places  where  they  have  not  been  before,  and  their  anxiety  to 
keep  themselves  within  the  region  of  the  fahies. 

Pitohiti  might  also  be  reached  by  the  same  route;  there  is  little 
doubt  that  the  latter  has  also  been  ascended  by  following  the  western 
branch  of  the  Pappino  valley,  a  route  which  was  also  considered 
feasible  by  our  party ;  a  third  route  might  also  be  found  by  following 
the  main  branch  of  the  Pappino,  which,  as  will  be  seen  on  the  map, 
rises  behind  Pitohiti. 


TAHITIANDEIMEO.  47 

This  excursion  furnished  more  full  information  in  relation  to  the 
geological  structure  of  the  island  than  had  before  been  obtained.  This 
is  exclusively  volcanic,  and  the  rocks  are  either  compact  basalts,  or 
conglomerates  of  basalt  and  tufa,  although  no  active  volcano  exists, 
nor  any  well-defined  crater,  unless  Lake  Waiherea  can  be  considered 
as  one.  Through  these  rocks  olivine  and  pyroxene  are  copiously 
disseminated ;  cellular  lava  was  found  in  some  places,  but  neither 
pummice  nor  obsidian  ;  quartz  and  mica  were  not  observed,  nor  any 
carbonate  of  lime,  except  in  the  form  of  coral  rock. 

There  is  no  conformity  between  the  rocks  of  the  centre  of  the  island 
and  those  which  in  most  places  extend  inwards  for  a  few  miles  from 
the  coast.  The  former  are  usually  compact,  of  columnar  structure, 
and  exhibit  no  appearance  of  horizontal  stratification  ;  the  latter  lie  in 
horizontal  layers,  composed  of  scoriaceous  and  vesicular  lava.  In  both 
of  these  structures,  singular  twistings  and  contortions  were  observed. 
Many  dikes  were  seen  to  occur,  not  only  in  the  mountains,  but  near 
the  sea-coast ;  these  were  from  three  to  six  feet  in  width. 

All  the  rocks  of  the  island  appear  to  be  undergoing  rapid  decompo- 
sition. Even  in  places  where  the  rock  seemed  to  have  retained  its 
original  form  of  sharp  edges  and  pointed  pinnacles,  it  was  found  so 
soft,  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  or  more,  as  to  crumble  in  the  hand.  The 
earth  thus  formed  varies  in  colour  from  that  of  Indian  red  to  a  light 
ochrey  tint ;  in  consequence,  many  of  the  hills  are  of  a  red  hue,  and 
one  immediately  behind  Papieti,  takes  its  name  (Red  Hill)  from  this 
appearance. 

This  decomposed  earthy  matter,  mixed  with  the  abundant  decayed 
vegetation  of  a  tropical  climate,  forms,  as  may  be  readily  imagined,  a 
soil  of  the  greatest  fertility,  adapted  to  every  kind  of  cultivation.  On 
the  higher  grounds,  the  soil  thus  constituted  has  the  character  of  a 
clay,  and  is  in  wet  weather  slippery  and  unctuous  ;  in  lower  positions 
it  is  mixed  with  lime  derived  from  coral  and  shells,  which  often  tends 
to  augment  its  fertility. 

Iron  abounds  throughout ;  on  the  mountains  to  such  an  extent  that 
compasses  were  found  of  little  use  from  the  local  attraction  by  which 
they  were  affected  ;  and  on  the  shore,  the  sand  was  composed  in  part 
of  iron,  which  could  be  separated  by  the  magnet. 

Water  gushes  out  near  the  coast  in  copious  springs,  but  none  of  them 
were  found  hot,  nor  were  any  warm  springs  reported  to  exist. 

Papieti,  in  whose  harbour  we  were  now  lying,  is  one  of  the  largest 
villages  on  the  island ;  being  the  ordinary  residence  of  the  queen,  and 
the  abode  of  the  foreign  consuls.  The  foreign  residents  are  also,  for 
the  most  part,  collected  here.  Among  all  its  dwellings,  the  royal 


48  TAHITI    AND    EIMEO. 

residence,  and  the  house  of  Mr.  Pritchard,  are  the  only  ones  which 
possess  the  luxury  of  glazed  windows.  The  houses  of  the  foreigners 
are  scattered  along  the  beach,  or  built  immediately  behind  it. 

The  bay  of  Papieti  is  the  safest,  and  its  port  affords  the  greatest 
facilities  for  the  repair  and  supply  of  vessels,  of  any  belonging  to  the 
island.  For  the  first  purpose  a  wharf  and  warehouse  have  been  con- 
structed, which  are  let  to  those  who  wish  to  use  them.  We  occupied 
them  for  ten  days,  for  which  we  paid  thirty  dollars.  The  tender  was 
hove  out  at  the  wharf,  and  her  equipment  secured  in  the  warehouse. 
A  limited  supply  of  ships'  stores  and  chandlery  is  kept  for  sale,  and 
rnay  also  be  purchased  from  the  vessels  which  frequent  the  port. 

The  greater  part  of  the  commercial  business  of  Tahiti  is  transacted 
here,  whither  the  articles  for  export  from  other  parts  of  the  island  are 
brought  to  be  re-shipped.  The  number  of  vessels  which  visit  this  port 
annually,  is  about  sixty,  of  which  the  largest  portion  are  whalers ;  the 
remainder  are  transient  merchantmen,  or  regular  traders  from  New 
South  Wales.  The  latter  bring  cotton  fabrics,  which  they  exchange 
for  sugar,  molasses,  arrow-root,  and  cocoa-nut  oil.  The  value  of  the 
exports  in  this  direction  is  supposed  to  be  about  $35,000. 

The  amount  of  American  manufactured  goods  imported  into  the 
island  is  estimated  at  an  equal  sum ;  they  find  their  way  here  in 
transient  ships  from  the  coast  of  South  America,  and  the  supplies 
furnished  our  whale-ships  are  generally  paid  in  American  goods. 

It  is  almost  impossible,  in  the  absence  of  all  statistics,  to  arrive  at 
any  correct  statement  of  the  amount  of  foreign  manufactures  annually 
consumed  here ;  but  the  quantity  is  evidently  on  the  increase. 

By  a  regulation  of  the  colonial  government  of  New  South  Wales, 
Tahitian  vessels  are  allowed  to  enter  their  ports  on  the  same  footing 
with  the  English.  There  are  several  vessels  engaged  in  the  trade,  and 
others  building. 

The  position  of  this  island,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  cruising-ground  of 
our  whale-ships,  and  the  resources  it  possesses  for  supplying  shipping, 
make  it  a  desirable  point  of  rendezvous. 

The  following  statement  will  show  the  number  and  value  of  Ame- 
rican vessels  visiting  this  island  in  the  years  1836,  '37,  and  '38. 

WHALE-SHIPS.  TONS.  VALUE  OF  CARGO. 

1836  .         .      52      ....      18,090      .        .        .        81,307,500 

1837  .         .      57      .        .        .        .      20,500      .        .        .          1,817,000 

1838  .         .      42      .        .        .        .      15,000      .        .        .  1,268,000 

9  merchant-ships,  1,700      .         .         .  75,000 


55,290  $4,467,500 

A  census  recently  taken,  gives  for  the  population  of  Tahiti  nine 


TAHITI    AND    EIMEO.  49 

thousand,  and  for  that  of  Eimeo  one  thousand.  When  this  is  compared 
with  the  estimates  of  the  navigators  who  first  visited  these  islands,  an 
enormous  decrease  would  appear  to  have  taken  place.  The  first  esti- 
mates were,  however,  based  on  erroneous  data,  and  were  unquestion- 
ably far  too  high ;  yet  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  population  has  fallen 
off  considerably  in  the  interval.  The  decrease  may  be  ascribed  in 
part  to  the  remains  of  the  old  custom  of  infanticide,  in  part  to  new  dis- 
eases introduced  from  abroad,  and  the  evils  entailed  upon  them  by 
foreigners,  and  in  part  to  the  transition  now  going  on  from  a  savage 
to  a  civilized  life. 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  case,  during  the  first  years  after  it 
was  visited  by  Europeans,  the  population  for  the  last  thirty  years  has 
been  nearly  stationary ;  the  births  and  deaths  are  now  almost  exactly 
in  equal  numbers.  One  of  the  oldest  of  the  missionaries  informed  me, 
that  although  he  saw  much  change  in  the  character  and  habits  of  the 
people,  he  could  perceive  none  in  their  apparent  numbers. 

Tahiti  does  not  appear  to  be  afflicted  by  many  diseases.  Some 
have  been  introduced  by  foreign  ships,  and  among  others,  the  venereal, 
from  which  the  natives  suffer  much,  being  in  possession  of  no  method 
of  arresting  its  ravages,  and  ignorant  of  the  proper  mode  of  treating 
it.  In  connexion  with  this  subject,  the  want  of  a  physician  as  a  part 
of  the  missionary  establishment,  struck  me  as  an  instance  of  neglect 
in  its  managers;  and  I  was  surprised  to  hear  that  the  London  Society 
did  not  employ  any  medical  men.  From  this  cause,  not  only  are  the 
natives  deprived  of  the  benefits  which  might  so  easily  have  been 
conferred  upon  them,  but  the  missionaries  themselves  are  compelled 
to  pay,  out  of  their  private  purses,  for  medical  aid,  when  it  ca.n  be 
procured.  They  are  even  at  times  wholly  without  a  physician.  This 
happened  to  be  the  case  at  the  time  of  our  arrival,  when  a  medical 
practitioner  who  had  formerly  resided  on  the  island,  had  just  taken  his 
departure. 

The  effects  of  intoxication  from  ardent  spirits  and  ava  are  said  to 
have  swept  off  many  of  the  inhabitants.  Secondary  syphilis  is  in 
some  cases  severe,  but  their  usual  vegetable  diet  and  simple  mode  of 
living,  together  with  frequent  ablutions,  tend  to  mitigate  this  disease. 
Its  continued  prevalence,  as  well  as  the  severity  of  some  of  the  cases, 
are  ascribable  to  the  inordinate  use  of  mercury,  administered  by  a 
physician  who  was  accustomed  to  distribute  it  in  inordinate  quantities 
among  the  affected,  who  were  of  course  ignorant  of  its  nature  and 
consequences. 

While  lying  at  Papieti,  we  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  manner 
in  which  justice  is  administered  in  criminal  cases.  The  court  was 

VOL.  n.  7 


50  TAHITI   AND    E  I  M  E  O. 

held  in  the  council-house,  an  oblong  building,  in  the  native  style ;  the 
alleged  crime  was  assault  with  intention  of  rape.  The  judges  were 
seated  on  mats,  having  Paofai,  their  chief,  a  little  in  front  of  the  rest; 
and  the  audience  sat  or  stood  around.  The  culprit  was  a  petty  chief, 
called  .Ta-ma-hau,  a  man  of  huge  size,  and  apparently  somewhat  of  a 
bully  ;  he  stood  during  the  trial  leaning  against  one  end  of  the  house, 
with  an  air  of  cool  indifference.  His  accuser  was  a  damsel  not 
remarkable  for  personal  beauty;  she  sat  near  the  door  among  a  number 
of  other  women.  The  witnesses  were  patiently  heard,  and  the  matter 
argued,  after  which  the  six  judges  severally  gave  their  opinions  and 
made  remarks  on  the  evidence,  to  which  Paofai  listened  in  an  attentive 
and  dignified  manner,  expressing,  as  occasion  demanded,  his  assent  or 
dissent.  He  then  pronounced  the  verdict  of  the  court,  by  which  the 
prisoner  was  acquitted,  but  did  not  dismiss  him  without  a  brief  and 
merited  admonition.  It  appeared,  that  although  not  guilty  of  the  crime 
alleged,  he  had  while  intoxicated  addressed  indecent  language  to  his 
accuser. 

Cultivation  has  undergone  a  great  change  within  a  few  years,  from 
the  introduction  of  the  guava,  which  has  overrun  the  lower  plain;  the 
pasturage  has  not  only  suffered,  but  to  its  destructive  effects  are 
attributed  many  evils.  Ten  years  prior  to  our  visit,  about  which  time 
the  guava  was  introduced  by  the  missionaries,  the  plain,  from  the  sea 
to  the  base  of  the  hills,  was  covered  with  verdure ;  and  now  it  is  over- 
run with  an  almost  impenetrable  thicket,  before  which  all  other  vege- 
tation disappears.  I  am  inclined  to  think,  that  although  this  tree  is 
now  looked  upon  by  the  natives  as  a  great  curse,  it  will  in  time  be 
beneficial  to  them,  and  cause  them  to  become  industrious,  when  they 
are  obliged  to  get  rid  of  it  to  make  room  for  their  sugar-cane,  cotton, 
and  indigo  plantations ;  which  products  succeed  remarkably  well,  can 
be  raised  at  small  cost,  and  will  before  many  years  be  in  great  demand. 

The  cocoa-nut  trees  were  also  reported  to  have  been  decreasing,  but 
our  inquiries  did  not  confirm  this  statement. 

The  manner  of  ascending  the  trees  by  the  natives,  has  been  fre- 
quently described,  but  can  scarcely  be  imagined  until  witnessed  ;  the 
feat  is  performed  by  leaping  without  any  cessation,  even  in  climbing 
the  highest  tree ;  the  body  of  the  tree  being  rough  or  composed  of 
rings,  affords  some  hold  for  the  thong  which  spans  the  tree  between  the 
feet ;  at  every  jump,  the  body  is  thrown  entirely  free  from  the  tree. 

The  bread-fruit  tree  is  also  said  to  have  decreased,  and  this  is  no 
doubt  the  case ;  the  seeds  are  said  to  be  often  abortive  at  Tahiti,  for 
which  reason  the  cultivation  in  this  way  has  been  neglected  of  late,  and 
the  plants  raised  in  other  modes  have  become  less  productive  in  conse- 


TAHITI    AND    E  I  M  E  O.  51 

quence  ;  its  timber  is  used  for  many  purposes ;  the  fruit  was  not  in 
season  while  we  were  at  Tahiti. 

Wild  sugar-cane  was  found  in  the  interior,  commonly  growing  in 
tufts,  but  so  small  in  size  that  it  was  with  difficulty  recognised ;  the 
cultivated  kind  is  derived  from  this,  and  is  also  of  small  size. 

The  fruits  we  met  with  were  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  shaddocks, 
pine-apples,  papayas,  bananas,  figs,  vi-apple,  fahies,  cocoa-nut,  and 
bread-fruit;  the  six  first  mentioned  have  been  introduced  since  Cook's 
time. 

The  vegetables  are  sweet-potatoes  (Convolvulus),  yams  of  small  size, 
taro  (Caladiurn  esculentum),  the  ape  (Caladium  macrorhizon),  turnips, 
onions,  and  leeks ;  but  there  were  no  common  potatoes  cultivated.  I 
gave  Mr.  Wilson  some  of  the  yellow  Peruvian  potato  (Papas  amarillas), 
but  he  informed  me  that  all  their  attempts  to  raise  potatoes  in  the  low 
ground  had  failed. 

The  tacca,  from  which  arrow-root  is  manufactured,  grows  in  quan- 
tities, but  we  did  not  see  it  cultivated. 

In  the  botanical  researches  it  was  remarkable  that  not  a  single  stem 
of  paper  mulberry  (Broussonetia)  was  found,  although  former  visitors 
speak  of  it  as  the  tree  from  which  their  cloth  was  made. 

There  are  a  vast  variety  of  ornamental  shrubs,  and  many  aromatic 
plants,  which  the  natives  use  to  perfume  their  cocoa-nut  oil. 

The  tutui  tree  (Aleurites  triloba),  the  nut  of  which  is  used  in  tattoo- 
ing, is  very  common  all  over  the  island. 

Tobacco  is  grown  in  small  quantities. 

Mr.  Henry  informed  me  that  grapes  succeeded  well  on  the  south- 
east side  of  the  island. 

The  price  of  labour  is  from  two  to  four  dollars  a  month,  but  for 
occasional  labour  fifty  cents  a  day  is  usually  paid. 

Wild  hogs  are  said  to  be  numerous  in  the  mountain  region;  none  of 
our  parties,  however,  met  any.  Horses  are  possessed  by  many  persons 
on  the  island,  and  goats  were  seen.  Dogs  and  cats  were  abundant. 
The  island  is  well  supplied  with  cattle ;  they  are  suffered  to  run  wild, 
and  frequent  the  neighbourhood  of  the  hills,  whither  they  are  obliged  to 
go  for  pasturage,  which  is  now  very  scarce  on  the  island,  on  account 
of  the  thick  growth  of  the  guava. 

After  the  departure  of  the  Vincennes,  a  party  from  the  Peacock, 
consisting  of  Mr.  Dana  and  some  others,  obtained  leave  of  absence  from 
Captain  Hudson  for  five  days,  with  the  design  of  ascending  Mount 
Aorai.  They  commenced  the  ascent  immediately  in  the  rear  .of 
Papieti,  and  by  noon  on  the  second  day  had  reached  an  elevation  of 


52  T  A  II  I  T  I    A  N  D    E  I  M  E  O. 

five  thousand  feet,  where  they  stood  upon  a  platform  about  twelve  feet 
square  ;  thence  they  looked  down  eastward  two  thousand  feet  into  the 
Matavai  Valley ;  to  the  westward  they  had  a  gorge  about  a  thousand 
feet  deep  running  into  Toanoa  Valley ;  to  the  south,  the  platform  on 
which  they  stood  was  united  by  a  narrow  ridge  with  Mount  Aorai, 
which  was  apparently  only  a  short  distance  before  them.  In  this  place 
they  were  compelled  to  pass  the  night,  by  a  fog  which  enveloped  them, 
through  which  the  guides  were  unwilling  to  lead  them,  refusing  to  pro- 
ceed further  along  the  dangerous  path  until  the  clouds  should  clear 
away. 

The  next  morning  was  clear,  and  they  pursued  their  ascending  route 
along  the  edge  of  a  ridge  not  more  than  two  or  three  feet  in  width, 
having  on  each  side  an  abyss  two  thousand  feet  deep.  Seen  from  this 
ridge,  looking  south,  Mount  Aorai  seemed  a  conical  peak,  but  as  it 
was  approached  it  proved  to  be  a  mountain  wall,  whose  edge  was 
turned  towards  them.  The  only  ascent  was  by  a  similar  narrow 
path  between  precipices,  and  surpassed  in  steepness  those  they  had 
already  passed.  The  width  of  the  crest  seldom  exceeded  two  feet, 
and  in  some  cases  they  sat  upon  it  as  if  on  horseback,  or  were  com- 
pelled to  creep  along  it  upon  their  hands  and  knees,  clinging  to  the 
bushes.  At  last  they  reached  the  summit,  where  they  found  barely 
room  to  turn  around.  The  ridge  continued  for  only  a  short  distance 
beyond  them,  being  then  cut  across  by  the  Punaania  Valley. 

From  the  summit  of  Aorai  they  had  a  magnificent  view ;  to  the 
south,  it  was  speedily  bounded  by  the  peaks  of  Orohena  and  Pitohiti, 
whose  steep  sides  rose  from  the  valley  beneath  them ;  to  the  east, 
they  had  the  rapid  succession  of  ridge  and  gorge  which  characterizes 
Tahitian  scenery  ;  to  the  west,  over  a  similar  scries  of  jagged  ridges, 
Eimeo  and  Tetuaroa  stood  out  from  the  horizon  of  the  sea  in  bold 
relief;  to  the  north,  they  looked  down  upon  the  plain,  studded  with 
groves  of  cocoa-nut  and  orange,  and  upon  the  harbour  with  its  ship- 
ping, and  the  encircling  reefs  of  coral. 

A  short  distance  below  the  summit  of  Mount  Aorai,  a  mass  of  turrets 
and  pinnacles,  which  from  its  singular  outline  is  called  the  crown, 
runs  along  the  top  of  a  narrow  ledge. 

Except  the  plain  of  the  coast,  no  level  land  is  in  sight  but  the  valley 
of  Punaania ;  this  is  divided  from  that  of  Matavai  by  a  ridge  of  the 
usual  edge-like  form,  running  upwards  towards  Orohena. 

Very  few  of  the  natives  who  are  now  alive  have  been  on  the  summit 
of  Aorai ;  their  paths  in  this  direction,  as  in  other  places,  do  not  lead 
beyond  the  limit  of  the  groves  of  wild  banana  (fahie).  Beyond  the 


TAHITI   AND   EIMEO.  53 

height  at  which  these  cease  to  grow,  the  ground  is  chiefly  covered 
with  a  wiry  grass  (Gleichenia),  which  springs  up  in  many  places  to 
the  height  often  feet,  and  is  everywhere  almost  impenetrable.  When 
this  was  not  too  high,  they  broke  it  down  by  casting  their  bodies  at 
full  length  upon  it ;  and  when  of  larger  growth,  they  had  recourse  to 
cutting  away  or  breaking  its  stiff  and  crowded  stems,  until  they  had 
formed  a  way  beneath  it,  whence  the  light  was  almost  excluded. 

The  want  of  water,  which  after  a  few  days  of  dry  weather  is 
seldom  found  even  in  the  elevated  valleys,  was  an  additional  discom- 
fort. It  is  to  be  recommended  to  future  travellers  in  the  mountains 
of  Tahiti  to  make  provision  against  this  inconvenience.  The  party 
was  so  much  distressed  from  this  cause  as  to  enjoy  the  dew  upon  the 
leaves  as  a  luxury. 

Mr.  Dana  reported  that  the  visit  to  Aorai  conclusively  settled  one 
questionable  point  in  the  geology  of  the  island.  He  found  upon  its 
summit  neither  corals  nor  "screw-shells,"  which  vague  rumours  have 
long  located  on  the  top  of  the  Tahitian  mountains.  Every  one  who 
has  visited  this  island  has  probably  heard  that  such  formations  exist  in 
these  lofty  positions  ;  but  the  report  rests  wholly  on  native  authority. 
Moera,  the  guide  who  accompanied  the  party,  and  who  resides  near 
One-Tree  Hill,  insisted  that  he  had  seen  both,  and  promised  to  show 
them.  On  reaching  the  summit,  he  began  digging,  and  the  rest  of  the 
party  aided  him.  He  soon  brought  up  what  he  called  coral,  but  which 
proved  to  be  a  grayish  trachytic  rock  ;  and,  although  he  continued  to 
dig  for  some  time  longer,  he  could  find  nothing  which  he  could  venture 
to  exhibit  as  screw-shells. 

In  their  descent  from  Mount  Aorai  they  followed  the  western  side 
of  the  valley  of  Papoa,  along  a  narrow  ledge,  similar  to  that  by  which 
they  had  ascended.  After  proceeding  for  two  hours  they  reached  a 
small  plain,  which  speedily  narrowed  to  a  mere  edge  of  naked  rock, 
with  a  steep  inclination ;  this  they  were  compelled  to  traverse  on 
their  hands  and  knees,  taking  the  greatest  care  to  avoid  detaching  the 
rock,  which  in  many  places  overhung  a  precipice ;  next  followed  a 
perpendicular  descent  of  about  twenty-five  feet,  down  which  they  let 
themselves  by  ropes  ;  this  difficulty  overcome,  the  rest  of  the  route 
presented  no  dangerous  features,  and  was  performed  in  safety. 

The  manufactures  of  Tahiti  are  of  little  amount.  Among  them  is 
that  of  arrow-root  from  the  Tacca  pinnatifida,  which  employs  a  por- 
tion of  the  population.  Cocoa-nut  oil  is  also  made,  and  preserved  for 
use  in  pieces  of  bamboo,  cut  off  at  the  joints,  when  the  natural  dia- 
phragms form  a  bottom,  and  the  piece  is  thus  a  convenient  bucket. 


54  TAHITI    AND    El  MEO. 

This  oil  is  often  scented  with  aromatic  herbs,  to  be  employed  by  the 
natives  in  anointing  the  hair  and  body ;  it  is  also  used  for  burning  in 
lamps,  and  is  exported  in  considerable  quantities.  The  lamps,  which 
are  always  kept  burning  in  their  houses  at  night,  are  made  of  the  shell 
of  a  cocoa-nut.  The  wick  is  formed  of  wild  cotton,  and  is  kept 
upright  in  the  centre  of  the  bowl  by  two  elastic  strips  of  cocoa-nut 
leaf  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles. 

Sugar  is  beginning  to  attract  attention,  and  some  attempts  have  also 
been  made  in  the  culture  and  preparation  of  indigo. 

Making  straw  or  chip  hats  is  a  favourite  occupation  among  the 
women,  whose  former  employment  of  making  tapa  has,  as  was  stated 
in  the  preceding  chapter,  been  much  diminished  by  the  introduction  of 
European  fashions. 

I  have  also  before  referred  to  the  abortive  attempt  of  the  mission- 
aries to  introduce  machinery  for  the  manufacture  of  cotton,  which  will 
be  again  mentioned  in  speaking  of  the  island  of  Eimeo,  where  the 
experiment  was  made. 

Before  closing  my  remarks  on  Tahiti,  I  consider  it  my  duty  to  say 
a  few  words  in  relation  to  the  transgression  of  the  local  laws  by  many 
of  the  vessels  which  visit  it,  and  some  of  which,  I  regret  to  be  com- 
pelled to  confess,  bear  the  flag  of  the  United  States.  I  have  particular 
reference  to  the  license  always  allowed  to  the  crews,  and  in  which  the 
masters  and  officers  often  themselves  indulge,  in  making  brothels  of 
their  ships.  They  also  do  not  scruple  to  retail  ardent  spirits  to  the 
natives,  although  they  well  know  that  it  is  contrary  to  a  law  of  the 
island,  most  strictly  enforced  on  shore.  Such  conduct  not  unlrequently 
gives  rise  to  difficulties  very  prejudicial  to  the  interests  of  the  owners; 
but  it  is  still  more  disgraceful  when  considered  in  its  destructive  effect 
upon  the  people  whose  hospitality  they  are  enjoying,  and  as  a  practice 
that  they  would  not  dare  to  indulge  in,  when  in  the  ports  of  any 
civilized  nation. 

The  influence  of  the  example  of  these  visitors  upon  the  natives  is 
demoralizing  in  the  extreme,  is  calculated  to  retard  their  advancement 
in  civilization,  and  throws  countless  difficulties  and  obstructions  in  the 
way  of  the  laudable  exertions  of  the  missionaries. 

Litlle  idea  can  be  formed  by  those  who  have  not  witnessed  it,  of 
the  extent  to  which  the  practice  of  vending  spirits  is  carried,  not  only 
at  Tahiti,  but  throughout  the  Polynesian  islands.  I  am  satisfied,  that 
if  the  owners  of  the  vessels  which  indulge  in  it  were  aware  of  the 
traflic,  and  had  a  just  sense  of  their  own  interest,  they  would  interdict  the 
sale  of  this  pernicious  article,  and  prohibit  the  carriage  of  it  in  their  ships. 


TAHITI    AND    EIMEO. 


55 


Captain  Hudson,  who  was  much  troubled  with  the  illicit  supply  of 
spirits  to  his  men,  and  was  aware  of  the  fact  that  the  practice  of 
vending  it  was  contrary  to  law,  endeavoured  to  discover  the  parties 
engaged  in  this  traffic.  He  did  this  not  only  for  the  sake  of  his  own 
crew,  who,  when  questioned,  stated  that  their  intoxication  was  pro- 
duced by  gin,  bought  at  the  rate  of  three  dollars  a  bottle,  but  to  aid  the 
natives  in  their  exertions  to  prevent  the  infraction  of  their  laws  by  the 
white  residents.  In  pursuance  of  these  objects,  he  called  a  meeting  of 
the  chiefs,  and  stated  his  complaint.  They  forthwith  ordered  search  to 
be  made  for  the  offenders  by  the  police,  by  which  some  of  them  were 
discovered  and  immediately  fined.  At  the  examination,  however,  the 
chiefs  stated  to  Captain  Hudson,  with  what  truth  I  do  not  pretend  to 
say,  that  seventy  cases  of  gin  had  been  landed  by  our  own  consul,  from 
whom  they  believed  that  the  retailers  had  obtained  it,  while  the  main 
stock  being  upon  his  premises,  under  the  United  States  flag,  was  pro- 
tected from  search. 

The  repairs  of  the  Flying-Fish  were  not  completed  before  the  10th 
October,  up  to  which  time  the  Peacock  was  detained,  not  only  in  order 
that  they  might  sail  in  company,  but  because  her  officers  were  still 
engaged  in  the  survey  of  the  harbours.  In  the  interval  of  leisure  which 
wras  thus  afforded  them,  the  crew  of  the  Peacock  asked  and  obtained 
permission  to  get  up  a  theatrical  entertainment,  for  the  amusement  of 
the  natives  and  themselves.  The  council-house  was  placed  at  their 
disposal  for  the  purpose  by  the  native  authorities.  The  play  chosen 
was  Schiller's  "  Robbers,"  the  parts  of  which  had  been  rehearsed  at 
sea,  in  the  afternoons — a  task  which  had  been  the  source  of  much 
amusement.  An  opportunity  was  now  presented  of  getting  it  up  well : 
the  dresses  having  been  prepared,  the  day  was  appointed,  and  when  it 
arrived  the  piece  was  performed ;  the  acting  was  thought  by  the 
officers  very  tolerable,  and  finally  gave  great  delight  to  the  natives. 
The  latter,  however,  were  somewhat  disappointed  in  the  early  parts 
of  the  performance,  for  they  had  expected  an  exhibition  of  juggling, 
such  as  had  been  given  for  their  entertainment  on  board  of  a  French 
frigate.  While  under  this  feeling,  they  were  heard  to  say  there  was 
too  much  "  parau"  (talk).  After  they  began  to  enter  into  the  spirit  of  the 
performance,  the  murders  took  their  fancy  ;  and  they  were  diverted  with 
the  male  representatives  of  the  female  characters. 

A  number  of  comic  songs,  which  formed  the  relief  of  the  more 
serious  play,  were  exceedingly  applauded ;  among  others  they  laughed 
heartily  at  "  Jim  Crow"  sung  in  character,  and  could  not  be  persuaded 
that  it  was  a  fictitious  character. 


56 


TAHITI    AND    E  I  M  E  O. 


On  the  25th  September,  the  Vincennes  sailed  from  the  port  of 
Papieti  for  the  island  of  Eimeo.  The  distance  between  its  reef  and 
that  of  Tahiti,  measured  by  the  patent  log,  is  ten  miles. 

Eimeo  is  a  beautiful  object  in  the  view  from  Tahiti,  and  its  beauty 
is  enhanced  on  a  nearer  approach ;  its  hills  and  mountains  may, 
without  any  great  stretch  of  the  imagination,  be  converted  into 
battlements,  spires,  and  towers,  rising  one  above  the  other;  their  gray 
sides  are  clothed  here  and  there  with  verdure,  which  at  a  distance 
resembles  ivy  of  the  richest  hue. 


Taloo  harbour  is  an  inlet  about  three  miles  in  depth,  situated  in  a 
glen  enclosed  by  precipitous  sides  rising  in  places  to  the  height  of  two 
thousand  feet ;  at  its  head  is  an  extensive  flat  of  rich  alluvial  soil,  now 
employed  in  the  culture  of  sugar,  and  studded  with  trees,  shrubs,  and 
other  interesting  objects.  The  ship  lay  at  anchor  close  beneath  a  high 
mountain  on  the  left,  in  contrast  with  which  her  dimensions  seerred 
those  of  a  cock-boat. 

I  had  been  furnished  with  letters  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Simpson,  who  is 
stationed  as  missionary  at  Eimeo;  when  we  landed,  he  met  us  upon 
the  beach,  and  gave  us  a  most  cordial  reception;  we  were  soon 
surrounded  by  nearly  all  the  natives  in  the  place,  male  and  female, 
old  and  young,  who  followed  us  with  expressions  of  wonder;  their 
conduct  reminded  me  of  the  manner  in  which  an  Indian  chief  is  run 
after  in  the  streets  of  our  American  cities.  In  spite  of  their  excite- 


TAHITI    AND    E  I  M  E  O. 


57 


ment  they  were  all  extremely  civil,  and  said  they  only  wished  to  look 
at  us,  although  some  were  disposed  to  feel  us. 

Mr.  Simpson  led  the  way  to  his  house,  passing  by  a  thick  and  well- 
built  stone  wall,  the  only  one  which  I  had  seen  used  as  an  enclosure 
in  these  islands ;  on  my  inquiring  if  it  was  the  work  of  native  labour, 
I  was  informed  that  it  had  been  erected  by  an  Irishman,  who  is  now 
the  overseer  of  Mr.  Simpson's  sugar  plantation.  This  wall  encloses  a 
large  lawn,  with  a  number  of  fine  bread-fruit  trees ;  on  each  side  of 
the  walk  was  a  row  of  low  acacias,  which  were  at  the  time  in 
full  bloom,  with  flowers  of  many  colours, — yellow,  orange,  red,  and 
variegated ;  at  the  end  of  the  walk  was  a  low  thatched  white 
cottage. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Simpson  have  the  care  of  a  school  for  the  children 
of  missionaries  and  respectable  white  parents :  these  are  kept  entirely 
separate  from  the  children  of  the  natives ;  the  reason  assigned  for  this 
exclusiveness  is,  that  the  danger  of  the  former  receiving  improper 
ideas  is  such  as  to  preclude  their  association  with  the  latter.  This 
may  be  good  policy  as  far  as  the  white  children  are  concerned, 
although  I  doubt  its  having  a  good  effect  on  their  minds  if  they  are 
destined  to  spend  their  lives  among  the  islands.  The  habit  they  will 
thus  acquire  of  looking  upon  the  natives  as  their  inferiors,  cannot  foil 
to  have  an  injurious  influence  on  both.  The  exclusiveness  is  carried 
so  far,  that  the  children  of  whites  by  native  women,  although  they  are 
united  in  the  relation  of  husband  and  wife,  are  not  admitted  into  these 
schools,  because,  as  they  say,  they  do  not  wish  their  children  to  be 
contaminated  by  intercourse  with  such  a  mixture  of  blood.  In  pur- 
suance of  the  same  policy  they  have,  as  it  is  said,  procured  the 
enactment  of  a  law  prohibiting  marriage  between  whites  and  the 
natives. 

This,  I  must  say,  appeared  to  me  the  worst  feature  I  had  seen  in  the 
missionary  establishment.  It  is  placed  here  for  the  avowed  purpose 
of  reclaiming  the  natives  from  idolatry,  and  the  vices  which  are  its 
concomitants.  In  doing  this,  their  most  successful  efforts  have  been 
in  the  conversion  and  moral  improvement  of  the  young ;  yet  they  bring 
up  their  own  children  to  look  down  upon  them  as  beings  of  an  inferior 
order.  In  becoming  acquainted  with  this  feature,  I  no  longer  wondered 
at  the  character,  which  I  was  compelled  by  a  regard  for  truth  to  give, 
of  the  children  of  missionary  parents  in  Tahiti. 

The  missionaries  are  now  aware  that  their  proper  plan  is  to  devote 
their  time  and  attention  to  the  young ;  and  in  pursuance  of  this  object, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Howe  have  lately  arrived  from  England,  for  the  purpose 
of  establishing  an  infant  school. 

VOL.    II.  8 


58  TAHITI    AND    EIMEO. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  schools  of  manual  labour  have,  for 
what  reason  I  could  not  learn,  been  discontinued.  Some  of  the  natives 
who  had  been  instructed  in  them  evinced  a  knowledge  of  the  trade  of 
the  carpenter,  and  furnished  the  ships  with  very  good  boards  sawn  by 
themselves. 

The  natives  of  Eimeo  have  an  advantage  over  those  of  Tahiti  in 
being  free  from  the  influence  of  evil  example ;  many  of  them  are 
industrious,  and  possess  a  proper  feeling  of  the  benefits  they  have 
derived  from  the  missionaries,  of  whom  they  speak,  whenever  ques- 
tioned, as  friends. 

Three  of  our  crew  having  become  enamoured  of  these  islands, 
deserted  while  the  Vincennes  lay  at  Eimeo.  They  left  the  ship  about 
ten  o'clock  at  night,  soon  after  which  their  absence  was  discovered, 
and  parties  sent  out  in  every  direction  to  intersect  the  roads  and  drive 
them  to  the  hills.  This  w'as  effected  the  following  morning,  and  a 
large  party  of  natives  was  employed  to  hunt  them  up.  This  task 
they  speedily  performed,  and  at  last  drove  the  deserters  to  one  of  the 
highest  ridges,  in  full  view  of  the  ship.  Here  the  runaways  appeared 
at  first  disposed  to  make  fight  with  stones ;  but  when  they  saw  the 
odds  against  them,  and  witnessed  the  alertness  of  the  natives  in 
leaping  from  cliff  to  cliff,  they  thought  it  best  to  give  themselves 
up ;  which  they  did  to  three  natives,  naked  except  the  maro,  and 
armed  respectively  with  a  rusty  sword,  an  old  cutlass,  and  a  piece 
of  iron  hoop.  These  bound  their  hands,  and  led  them  down  to  the 
shore,  whence  they  were  brought  on  board,  where  the  three  natives 
received  the  reward  offered  for  their  apprehension.  The  chase  and 
capture  was  an  amusing  sight  to  those  who  watched  the  proceedings 
from  the  ship. 

Eimeo  has,  if  possible,  a  more  broken  surface  than  Tahiti,  and  is 
more  thrown  up  into  separate  peaks  ;  its  scenery  is  wild  even  in  com- 
parison with  that  of  Tahiti,  and  particularly  upon  the  shores,  where 
the  mountains  rise  precipitously  from  the  water,  to  the  height  of 
twenty-five  hundred  feet.  The  reef  which  surrounds  the  island  is 
similar  to  that  of  Tahiti,  and  as  we  have  seen  to  be  the  case  there,  no 
soundings  are  found  on  the  outside  of  it.  Black  cellular  lava  abounds, 
and  holes  are  found  in  its  shattered  ridges,  among  which  is  the  noted 
one  through  which  the  god  Oroo  is  said  to  have  thrown  his  spear. 

While  we  remained  at  Eimeo,  I  visited  Papoa  or  Cook's  Harbour, 
which  lies  to  the*  east  of  that  of  Taloo.  There  is  a  marked  resem- 
blance between  the  two  ports,  except  that  the  shores  of  Papoa  are  not 
quite  as  precipitous  as  those  of  Taloo,  and  the  entrance  of  the  former 
not  as  practicable. 


TAHITI    AND   El MEa  59 

Wood  and  water  may  be  had  at  both  harbours  in  abundance,  but 
in  other  respects  the  island  is  not  well  adapted  as  a  place  for  the 
supply  of  ships.  No  more  than  a  single  ship  would  probably  be  able 
to  find  refreshments  at  a  time.  It  is,  therefore,  seldom  visited,  and 
its  surplus  produce  is  carried  to  Tahiti  for  sale.  Notwithstanding,  the 
articles  of  traffic  are  quite  as  dear  as  at  Tahiti. 

The  inhabitants  of  Eimeo  reside  upon  the  shores,  and  there  are 
several  large  villages  on  the  southern  side  of  the  island  ;  among  these 
is  Afareaitu,  at  which  the  Rev.  Mr.  Hale,  whose  recent  arrival  has 
been  spoken  of,  is  about  to  take  up  his  residence. 

It  was  in  this  island  that  the  establishment  of  a  factory  for  spinning 
cotton,  and  weaving  cloth  and  carpets,  was  attempted  by  Messrs. 
Armitage  and  Blossom,  who  were  sent  out  for  the  purpose  by  the 
London  Missionary  Society.  Its  failure  and  cessation  after  a  fair  trial 
have  already  been  mentioned. 

It  has  been  seen  that  the  alluvial  plain  at  the  head  of  the  harbour 
of  Taloo,  is  partly  occupied  by  plantations  of  sugar.  The  cane  is  of 
superior  quality,  and  the  climate  well  adapted  to  its  production ;  the 
plant  is  indeed  indigenous,  and  it  is  well  known  that  the  variety  of  it 
found  at  Tahiti  has  been  introduced  advantageously  into  the  West 
Indies.  At  Eimeo  the  crop  is  liable  to  injury  from  the  ground-rat,  and 
there  are  difficulties  attending  the  management  of  the  crop,  which 
cause  the  cultivators  to  speak  despondingly.  About  one  hundred  tons, 
however,  are  made  annually. 

Coffee,  cotton,  and  all  other  tropical  plants,  succeed  well  at  Eimeo, 
and  the  quantity  of  tapa  manufactured  is  greater  in  proportion  than  at 
Tahiti. 

I  took  the  opportunity  of  my  anchorage  in  the  harbour  of  Eimeo,  to 
verify  the  chart  made  by  Captain  Von  Schantz,  of  the  Russian  ship 
America,  and  found  it  accurate.  I  have  added  some  soundings,  and 
laid  down  the  topography  of  the  shores,  and  the  outline  of  the  reefs, 
more  minutely  than  he  had  attempted. 

On  leaving  Eimeo,  I  bade  adieu  to  the  Tahitian  islands  ;  but  I  cannot 
close  the  portion  of  the  Narrative  which  is  devoted  to  them,  without 
again  expressing  the  pleasure  I  and  all  my  officers  derived  from  our 
intercourse  with  the  missionaries,  and  our  obligations  for  the  kindness 
received  from  them  and  other  residents.  Among  those  to  whom  we 
are  indebted,  I  cannot  refrain  from  naming  George  Pritchard,  Esq., 
H.  B.  M.  Consul,  of  whose  strenuous  exertions  to  advance  the  welfare 
of  the  people,  and  sustain  the  government  in  its  efforts  to  promote  their 
best  interests,  I  became  by  observation  fully  aware.  It  is  to  be  regretted 


60 


TAHITI    AND    EIMEO. 


that  his  very  activity  in  thus  labouring  in  many  ways  for  the  good  of 
the  community  in  which  he  resides,  should  be  the  probable  cause  of 
unkind  and  unfounded  imputations,  from  those  actuated,  if  not  by 
motives  positively  bad,  at  least  by  a  less  enlightened  or  less  ardent 
zeal. 


BEATING  TAt'A. 


CHAPTER  III. 


CONTENTS. 

DEPARTURE  OF  THE  VINCENNES  FROM  TAHITI  —  BELLINGHAUSEN'S  ISLAND  — ROSE 
ISLAND  — MANUA  — ITS  DESCRIPTION  — THREATENED  WAR— ITS  CAUSE— CANOES  OF 
MANUA— APPEARANCE  AND  CONDUCT  OF  THE  NATIVES— VILLAGE— DRESS  OF  THE 
NATIVES— PRODUCTIONS  OF  MANUA— OLOOSINGA— ITS  DESCRIPTION— HOUSE  OF  THE 
KING— HIS  ENTERTAINMENT— RETURN  TO  THE  SHIP— CORAL  REEF  OF  OLOOSINGA— 
OFOO— TEMPERATURE  DURING  THE  PASSAGE— PLAN  OF  THE  OPERATIONS  OF  THE 
SQUADRON— APPEARANCE  OF  TUTUILA— HARBOUR  OF  PAGO-PAGO— ANCHORAGE— TOA 
—  OBSERVATORY  — GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE  OF  TUTUILA— APPEARANCE  AND  CHA- 
RACTER OF  ITS  INHABITANTS  — MASSACRE  OF  M.  DE  LANGLE— VILLAGE  OF  PAGO- 
PAGO-GOVERNMENT— WAR-MATS— VISIT  TO  TOA— HIS  FEAST— PRICE  OF  PROVISIONS 
—WAR  SONG— BATHING— MODE  OF  LIVING— EMPLOYMENTS  AND  AMUSEMENTS  —  MR. 
MURRAY,  THE  MISSIONARY-CUSTOMS  OF  THE  NATIVES— PUBLIC  WORSHIP— MISSION- 
ARY—JUNCTION  OF  THE  PEACOCK  AND  FLYING-FISH—SURVEYS—CLIMATE—VISIT  TO 
HEATHEN  VILLAGES-SAVAGE  FEAST— TEMPERATURE  AT  THE  TOP  OF  MATAFOA— 
SUPPOSED  MURDER— REMARKABLE  PHENOMENA  OF  THE  TIDES. 


(61) 


D  Ar 


HUSK         I. 


CHAPTER   III. 

T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

1839. 

ON  the  29th  of  September,  at  daylight,  having  the  wind  from  the 
northward  and  eastward,  we  got  under  way,  and  made  sail  to  the  west- 
ward, passing  the  Society  Island  Group:  viz.,  Sir  Charles  Saunders' 
Isle,  Huaheine,  Tahaa,  Borabora,  Maufili,  and  Moutoiti.  All  of  these, 
with  the  exception  of  the  last,  are  high  lands. 

On  the  30th,  we  made  Bellinghausen's  Island,  which  is  a  low  coral 
island,  similar  to  those  which  have  been  already  described.  It  was 
uninhabited,  and  is  of  a  triangular  form,  with  the  usual  vegetation, 
with  the  exception  of  cocoa-nut  palms.  We  landed  upon  it,  and  made 
the  magnetic  experiments. 

Birds  were  in  great  plenty,  and  as  tame  as  we  had  found  them  at 
other  uninhabited  islands  we  had  visited.  No  lizards  or  rats  were 
observed,  nor  was  the  common  fly  seen.  The  lagoon  had  no  passage 
into  it  at  low  water,  but  the  tide  flowed  into  it  over  the  reef. 

During  the  time  of  our  stay  on  the  island,  the  tide  rose  and  fell 
upwards  of  two  feet,  and  it  was  high  water  at  8  A.  M.  Many  specimens 
of  fish  were  obtained  here,  of  which  the  department  of  Natural  History 
will  treat. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  again  made  sail  to  the  westward,  for  Rose 
Island,  and  on  the  6th  of  October,  we  passed  near  the  locality  of  the 
Royal  George  Shoal,  but  saw  nothing  of  it. 

On  the  7th,  which  was  the  day  appointed  for  our  rendezvous  off 
Rose  Island,  we  came  in  sight  of  it,  and  at  the  same  time  descried  the 
Porpoise.  That  vessel  had  passed  by  Nairsa  or  Dean's  Island,  and 
connected  the  survey  of  it  with  that  of  Krusenstern's  and  Lazareff. 
Both  of  these  were  found  to  have  entrances  into  their  lagoons ;  they 

(63) 


64  T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

are  uninhabited,  though  occasionally  visited  by  the  natives  of  Nairsa 
Island.  The  position  of  Recreation  Island  was  passed  over,  but  no 
signs  of  land  discovered. 

Rose  Island,  the  most  eastern  of  the  Samoan  Group,  was  discovered 
by  Freycinet,  who  gave  it  its  name.  It  appears,  at  first,  like  a  round 
knoll  of  land,  but  on  a  nearer  approach,  this  is  found  to  arise  from  a 
large  clump  of  Pisonia  trees,  similar  to  those  found  growing  in  the  low 
archipelago.  It  is  a  low  annular  coral  island,  of  small  dimensions, 
inundated  at  high  water,  with  the  exception  of  two  small  banks,  one 
of  which  is  entirely  covered  by  the  clump  of  trees.  The  other  is  formed 
of  dead  coral,  without  any  vegetation.  The  tide  was  found  here  to  rise 
about  four  and  a  half  feet,  the  flood  setting  to  the  eastward.  The 
breakers  on  its  weather  or  southeast  side  are  heavy ;  and  there  is  an 
entrance  into  the  lagoon,  having  four  fathoms  depth  of  water  through 
it.  The  lagoon  has  from  six  to  twelve  fathoms  in  it.  A  remarkable 
coral  formation,  like  a  submerged  tree,  thirty  feet  in  diameter  over  its 
top,  was  found  in  the  centre  of  the  lagoon,  rising  to  the  level  of  low 
water,  and  having  all  around  it  a  depth  of  six  fathoms.  The  currents 
set  regularly  out  and  in  to  the  lagoon,  according  to  the  state  of  the  tide. 
In  stormy  weather  the  sea  must  make  a  complete  breach  over  the  reef. 

Some  boulders  of  vesicular  lava  were  seen  on  the  coral  reef;  they 
wrere  from  twenty  to  two  hundred  pounds  weight,  and  were  found 
among  blocks  of  coral  conglomerate. 

Birds  were  seen  flying  over  the  island,  and  on  landing  we  found  them 
in  great  numbers  and  very  tame.  The  frigate-birds,  and  boobies  (sula), 
whose  nests  had  before  been  observed  on  low  bushes,  were  here  found 
on  the  tops  of  trees  fifty  feet  high.  The  noddies  laid  their  eggs  on  the  parts 
of  the  island  destitute  of  vegetation.  Tern  were  in  great  numbers; 
their  breeding-place  was  in  a  thicket  on  the  weather  side  of  the  island, 
or  that  which  was  exposed  to  the  wind  and  sea,  and  was  remarkable 
from  the  regularity  with  which  the  eggs  were  placed,  about  three  feet 
apart,  without  any  nest,  and,  with  but  few  exceptions,  out  of  many 
thousands,  each  egg  lay  separately.  The  colour  of  the  eggs  is  a  dirty 
white,  mottled  with  brown.  The  noise  made  by  these  birds  when  dis- 
turbed was  almost  deafening;  but  on  making  a  loud  sound,  such  as  the 
firing  of  a  gun,  their  cries  would  cease  for  a  moment  or  two,  producing 
a  singular  stillness. 

Several  small  turtles,  similar  to  those  seen  at  Honden  Island,  were 
observed  here.  One  of  them  was  taken,  but  its  flesh  proved  coarse, 
and  was  drier  than  that  of  the  green  turtle :  they  feed  upon  a  species 
of  fucus  that  grows  upon  the  reefs.  Here  we  made  observations  for 
intensity  and  dip. 


T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 


65 


On  the  7th,  \vc  left  Rose  Island  and  stood  to  the  westward,  makin^ 
at  sunrise  the  island  of  Manua,  which  is  two  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  has  the  form  of  a  regular  dome, 
rising  in  most  places  precipitously  from  the  water  to  the  height  of 
three  or  four  hundred  feet,  after  which  its  ascent  appears  more  gentle 
and  even.  It  is  sixteen  miles  in  circumference,  is  well  covered  with 
a  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  has  many  cocoa-nut  groves  on  its  north- 
west side. 

On  approaching  it,  Oloosinga  was  in  sight,  and  shortly  after  Ofoo. 
These  two  islands  lie  to  the  northwestward,  at  the  distance  of  about 
four  miles. 

The  boats  were  lowered,  and  sent  to  trace  the  shores  of  the  island 
of  Manua,  for  the  purpose  of  surveying  it ;  whilst  the  Vincennes  and 
the  Porpoise  passed  on  each  side. 

This  island  is  inhabited.  The  principal  settlement  is  on  the  north- 
west side,  and  there  is  anchorage  for  a  small  vessel  near  the  shore, 
where  there  is  a  cove  to  land  in,  with  but  little  surf  during  the  fine 
season,  or  from  April  to  November.  It  has  a  shore-reef  of  coral,  and 
the  soundings  extend  off  some  distance,  eight  fathoms  being  found  four 
hundred  yards  from  the  shore. 

Some  large  blocks  of  vesicular  lava  were  seen  on  its  northeast 
point,  but  the  general  structure  was  a  conglomerate  of  a  drab  colour, 
in  horizontal  strata ;  yet  the  beach  was  of  light-coloured  sand,  formed 
by  a  mixture  of  coral  and  shells. 

Our  arrival  off  Manua  was  opportune.  According  to  the  statement 
of  one  of  the  brothers  of  the  king,  who  spoke  a  little  English,  hostili- 
ties had  been  threatened  between  the  "  missionary"  party,  and  the 
"  devil's  men."  A  native  missionary,  resident  in  the  island,  had  already 
prevented  a  battle,  by  telling  them  that  if  they  wished  to  fight  with 
each  other  they  must  first  kill  him.  Through  his  influence  and  exem- 
plary conduct,  peace  had  hitherto  been  preserved.  It  was  stated  that 
several  "  very  bad"  white  men  were  on  the  island,  and  that  they  made 
"  plenty  of  fight ;"  but  that  on  seeing  "  mannawa"  (man-of-war),  they 
had  gone  into  the  "  bush." 

Eight  of  these  men  had  deserted  from  an  English  whaler,  whose 
boat  they  had  stolen.  Three  of  them  came  alongside  of  us  next  day, 
clad  after  the  manner  of  the  natives,  and  were  very  anxious  to  be  taken 
off  the  island. 

The  canoes  of  these  islanders  were  the  best  we  had  seen.  They 
are  built  of  a  log,  having  upon  it  pieces  fastened  together,  to  raise 
them  sufficiently  high.  They  are  thirty  or  forty  feet  long,  and  are 

VOL.  II.  9 


60  T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

partly  covered  in  at  both  ends.  Some  of  them  are  capable  of  con- 
taining twenty  or  twenty-five  men,  and  are  very  swift.  The  chief 
usually  sits  cross-legged  on  the  forward  platform  or  deck.  They  have 
an  out-rigger,  which  is  not  so  for  removed  from  tne  canoe,  and  renders 
them  more  liable  to  be  upset. 

Several  of  the  natives  came  on  board.  They  were  a  finely-formed 
race,  and  appeared  lively  and  well-disposed,  though  in  a  much  wilder 
state  than  those  of  the  Society  Islands. 

Our  party,  on  landing,  were  immediately  surrounded  with  natives 
willing  to  trade,  and  calling  out  for  "  bacca"  (tobacco),  which  is  in 
great  request  among  them.  Fish-hooks  were  also  much  sought  for. 
A  fowl,  a  bunch  of  bamboos,  and  a  dozen  of  cocoa-nuts  were  procured 
for  a  small  one. 

They  seemed  willing  to  exchange  any  thing  they  had,  viz.,  baskets, 
mats,  spears,  clubs,  &c.,  to  obtain  these  articles.  They  were  not 
found  altogether  honest,  though  this  did  not  consist  in  stealing,  but  in 
selling  their  articles  twice  over ;  for  after  we  had  made  a  purchase 
from  one,  another  would  claim  the  article  as  belonging  to  himself,  and 
insist  on  also  receiving  a  price  for  it. 

Near  the  village  are  thick  stone  walls,  intended  to  all  appearances 
for  defence.  The  houses  are  elliptical,  supported  on  stout  posts,  about 
four  feet  high,  from  which  the  roof  or  thatching  rises  to  the  height  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet ;  they  are  generally  erected  on  a  raised  terrace 
of  stone,  two  feet  above  the  ground.  The  floors  are  covered  with 
coarse  matting. 

The  king  or  chief  of  these  islands  resides  at  Oloosinga,  in  conse- 
quence of  its  being  more  easily  defended. 

The  dress  of  the  natives  consists  only  of  the  maro,  made  of  the 
leaves  of  the  Dracaena,  which  has  a  graceful  appearance.  The  leaves 
are  slit,  and  form  a  kind  of  short  petticoat. 

The  tattooing  is  of  the  same  kind,  as  will  be  described  in  the  general 
account  of  the  Samoan  Islands. 

These  islands  furnish  pigs,  fowls,  sweet-potatoes,  fruit,  and  some 
taro.  The  vegetation  was  thought  to  be  more  luxuriant  than  at  Tahiti, 
and  the  climate  moister. 

Many  running  streams  were  observed  coursing  down  the  sides  of 
the  island.  When  off  the  eastern  end,  we  were  much  surprised  to  see 
the  natives  plunge  off  the  rocks  into  the  heavy  surf  to  reach  our  boats. 

After  our  party  reached  the  ship,  we  made  sail  for  Oloosinga, 
where  I  went  on  shore  to  see  the  king  or  chief,  who  was  old  and 
decrepit.  .  His  name  is  Lalelah.  His  brother,  and  presumptive  successor, 


TUTUILA.  t»7 

was  with  him,  and  met  me  as  I  landed  from  the  boat.  His  mode  of 
salutation  was  by  taking  my  hand  and  rubbing  the  back  of  it  against 
his  nose. 

The  old  man,  I  was  told  by  the  interpreter,  could  speak  a  little 
English,  but  I  could  not  understand  him.  This  he  attributed  to  his 
age,  and  would  not  admit  that  it  was  owing  to  his  ignorance  of  the 
language.  They  led  the  way  to  his  hut,  situated  under  a  mural 
precipice  twelve  hundred  feet  in  height. 

The  island  of  Oloosinga  is  a  narrow  ledge  of  rocks,  rising  nearly 
perpendicular  on  both  sides,  and  is  three  miles  in  length.  So  preci- 
pitous is  it  at  its  ends,  that  it  is  impossible  to  pass  around  it  on  the 
rocks.  The  strip  of  land  is  about  five  hundred  yards  in  width,  on 
which  bread-fruits  and  cocoa-nuts  grow  in  great  profusion  and  suffi- 
cient abundance  for  all  the  wants  of  the  natives.  They  told  me  that 
this  island  had  been  chosen  as  a  place  of  safety,  since  the  other 
became  unsettled  in  consequence  of  the  wars  of  the  Christian  and 
Devil's  parties ;  and  that  the  island  of  Manua.  had  formerly  been  the 
residence  of  the  king,  but  that  he  found  himself  unsafe  there,  and  had 
taken  up  his  abode  at  Oloosinga,  on  its  northwestern  side. 

His  house  was  elliptical  in  form,  and  thirty  feet  long,  erected  on  a 
well-flagged  terrace  of  stone,  about  four  feet  above  the  ground.  It 
was  well  shaded  with  cocoa-nut  and  bread-fruit  trees,  and  was 
supported  around  by  ten  stout  posts,  with  three  others  in  the  centre 
reaching  the  top.  The  roof  came  down  within  three  and  a  half  feet 
of  the  ground,  and  projected  as  eaves  about  eighteen  inches  or  two 
feet.  In  the  centre  the  hut  was  fifteen  feet  high  and  well  thatched. 

The  whole  floor  was  ordered  to  be  spread  with  fine  mats,  which 
were  carefully  unrolled,  and  laid  over  the  coarser  ones  on  the  floor. 
The  king  then  seated  himself  in  the  centre,  and  desired  me  to  take 
a  seat  between  himself  and  brother.  Shortly  afterwards  two  large 
wooden  trays  were  brought  in,  filled  with  cooked  bread-fruit  and 
covered  over  with  leaves.  One  of  these  was  placed  before  me,  when 
the  king  made  a  long  speech,  giving  me  welcome  and  offering  food  to 
eat.  I  was  then  desired  to  hand  some  to  the  king  and  his  brother,  and 
to  others  who  were  pointed  out  to  me.  This  I  did,  but  unfortunately 
continued  my  task,  and  handed  it  to  one  of  the  Kanakas,  or  common 
people,  who  were  sitting  close  around  us ;  much  displeasure  was 
evinced,  accompanied  with  angry  looks.  I  now  looked  around  for 
my  men,  but  they  were  out  of  sight,  on  their  return  to  the  boat.  In 
order  to  make  the  best  of  my  situation,  I  asked  what  was  meant,  and 
feigned  to  be  quite  ignorant  of  having  given  any  offence.  After  a 


08  T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

minute  they  were  apparently  appeased,  and  pleasant  looks  were 
restored. 

They  handed  round  a  shell  containing  cocoanut-oil  to  dip  the 
bread-fruit  in,  arid  another  containing  salt  water.  After  we  had  eaten, 
they  hegan  a  careful  examination  of  my  clothes,  and  appeared  much 
pleased  with  the  buttons.  My  pocket-handkerchief  was  taken  out  of 
my  pocket,  and  spread  on  the  mat  to  be  examined  by  the  king.  His 
brother  took  off  my  hat  and  put  it  on  the  top  of  his  large  bushy  head. 
They  then  had  ava  made,  of  which  I  could  not  partake,  after  seeing 
the  process  of  making  it.  It  is  first  chewed  by  the  women  and  thrown 
into  a  large  bowl;  water  is  added  to  it,  and  it  is  then  strained  through 
leaves.  This  was  partaken  of  by  them  all,  while  they  gave  me  a 
fresh  cocoa-nut. 

They  were  becoming  more  familiar  every  moment,  and  it  was 
getting  late,  so  I  thought  it  time  to  make  a  move.  I  therefore  rose  up, 
and  was  followed  by  the  natives,  in  number  upwards  of  a  hundred, 
including  the  king  and  his  brother,  to  the  boat.  I  looked  carefully 
around  for  arms,  but  saw  none  among  them.  My  boat  was  aground: 
the  king,  his  brother,  and  several  others,  got  into  it,  saying  they  must 
have  some  presents.  They  seemed  disposed  to  resist,  and  showed  a 
determination  to  contest  our  getting  oft*.  I  on  the  other  hand  was 
determined  to  get  rid  of  them,  and  peaceably  if  I  could ;  I  therefore 
ordered  the  boat's  crew  to  arm  themselves,  and  drive  every  one  of  the 
natives  from  the  boat,  at  the  same  time  intimating  to  the  king  to  use 
his  authority,  which  I  found,  however,  existed  only  in  name.  We  thus 
succeeded  in  getting  clear  of  the  crowd,  until  we  had  no  more  than 
eight  left ;  to  eacli  of  these  I  presented  a  small  fish-hook,  and  ordered 
lhem  to  get  into  the  water,  which  was  about  a  foot  deep,  and  go;  this 
they  did,  one  by  one.  At  last  came  the  king  and  his  brother's  turn,  to 
whom  I  presented,  with  great  ceremony,  first  a  small  and  then  a  large 
fish-hook ;  after  which  they  left  me,  apparently  in  great  good  humour. 
I  was  liQartily  glad  to  be  rid  of  such  rapacious  troublesome  fellows  so 
easily  and  without  a  fight.  We  then  pushed  our  boat  off.  When  just 
beyond  the  reef,  in  taking  up  our  anchor,  the  boat  had  the  appearance 
of  returning  again  on  shore.  On  seeing  this,  a  great  shout  was  set  up 
by  the  natives,  and  one  of  them  immediately  advanced  with  my 
powder-flask.  He  said  it  had  been  taken  by  a  boy  out  of  the  boat,  and 
had  been  dropped  into  the  water,  to  be  picked  up  after  we  had  shoved 
oft".  I  gave  the  man  a  small  present  for  his  apparent  honesty ;  but  I 
am  inclined  to  believe  it  was  the  fear  of  detection,  and  the  belief  that 
we  had  missed  the  article,  and  were  returning  for  it,  that  induced  them 


T  U  T  U  I  L  A.  69 

to  give  it  up  so  willingly.  It  was  some  time  before  he  could  be  made 
to  understand  what  the  reward  was  for,  but  when  he  found  it  was  for 
his  honesty,  he  laughed  heartily. 

This  having  excited  our  suspicions,  the  boat's  crew  informed  me 
that  a  canoe  that  was  paddling  off  had  been  alongside  of  the  gig,  and 
that  they  felt  satisfied  that  the  natives  had  taken  something  from  us. 
It  being  in  our  course  towards  the  ship,  we  gave  chase,  and  being 
favoured  by  the  wind,  soon  overtook  the  canoe,  to  the  great  fright  of 
the  two  natives,  who  were  paddling  with  all  their  might,  and  whose 
eyes  were  full  of  tears  when  overtaken.  They  had  nothing  at  all  in 
their  canoe,  and  after  examination  it  proved  we  had  lost  nothing.  To 
console  them  for  this  alarm,  I  gave  them  a  few  trifles,  and  they 
became  easy  and  cheerful. 

The  coral  reef  around  this  island  was  different  from  any  I  had 
hitherto  seen.  It  consisted  of  two  regular  shelves,  the  outer  one  from 
fifty  to  sixty  feet  wide,  and  the  inner  in  places  measuring  one  hundred 
and  forty  feet.  A  distinct  mark  of  high  water  was  measured  along 
the  beach,  and  found  to  be  twenty  feet  above  the  ordinary  sea-tide, 
which  has  from  four  to  five  feet  rise. 

The  rock  at  Manna  was  volcanic  conglomerate,  with  large  blocks 
of  vesicular  lava  lying  loose  on  the  coral  beach. 

Before  sunset  the  boats  returned  to  the  ship,  having  completed  the 
survey  of  both  islands. 

Ofoo  lies  to  the  westward  of  Oloosinga.  There  is  a  passage  for 
boats  of  about  a  fourth  of  a  mile  in  width  between  them,  and  anchor- 
age on  the  western  side.  Ofoo  resembles  Oloosinga ;  and,  from  the 
accounts  we  received,  it  has  but  few  inhabitants :  those  of  Oloosinga 
having  made  war  upon  them,  and  killed  the  "natives"  off.  There  is  a 
small  and  comparatively  low  islet  off  its  western  end,  near  which  there 
is  an  anchorage.  After  sunset  wre  bore  away  for  Tutuila,  which  can 
be  seen  in  fine  weather  from  these  islands. 

The  temperature  in  the  passage  from  Tahiti  to  the  Samoan  Islands 
had  increased  from  77-6°  to  81-11°  in  the  air;  and  that  of  the  water 
from  79-6°  to  81-6°. 

As  it  was  my  intention  to  make  a  thorough  examination  of  this 
group,  I  resolved,  in  order  to  accomplish  it  in  the  least  possible  time, 
to  divide  the  squadron,  so  as  to  put  all  the  remaining  islands  under 
examination  at  the  same  time.  The  island  of  Tutuila  being  the  most 
central,  and,  from  the  information  I  had  obtained,  the  best  position  for 
my  astronomical  observations,  I  selected  it  for  the  Vincennes.  That 
of  Upolu  was  reserved  for  the  Peacock  and  Flying-Fish  when  they 
should  arrive ;  and  in  case  of  their  being  detained  longer  than  I  anti- 


70  T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

cipated,  I  should  be  ready  to  take  up  the  survey  of  the  latter,  or  assist 
in  completing  it.  The  Porpoise  was  ordered  to  examine  the  island  of 
Savaii;  and  one  of  the  naturalists,  Dr.  Pickering,  was  directed  to  join 
her,  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  interior  of  the  island  during  her 
operations  in  its  vicinity.  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  was 
therefore  directed  to  land  him  for  the  purpose,  and  take  him  on  board 
when  the  survey  should  be  concluded.* 

On  the  10th  of  October,  we  had  light  winds,  in  consequence  of 
which  we  did  not  reach  Tutuila  that  day.  At  daylight  on  the  llth  we 
were  near  its  eastern  end,  and  off  the  island  of  Anuu. 

About  eight  miles  to  windward  of  the  harbour  of  Pago-pago,  we 
were  boarded  by  several  canoes,  in  which  were  some  natives,  with  a 
white  man,  by  name  William  Gray,  whom  I  retained  as  interpreter 
during  our  stay  here,  and  found  of  much  use. 

The  island  of  Tutuila  is  high,  broken,  and  of  volcanic  appearance. 
It  is  seventeen  miles  long,  and  its  greatest  width  is  five  miles.  The 
harbour  of  Pago-pago  penetrates  into  the  centre,  and  almost  divides 
the  island  into  two  parts.  It  is  less  varied  in  surface  than  the  Society 
Islands;  and  its  highest  peak,  that  of  Matafoa,  was  found  to  be  two 
thousand  three  hundred  and  twenty-seven  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
spurs  and  ridges  that  form  the  high  land  are  like  those  of  Tahiti: 
precipitous,  sharp-edged,  and  frequently  rise  in  mural  walls  from  the 
water  to  a  height  of  three  or  four  hundred  feet,  showing  the  bare 
basaltic  rock.  Above  this  height,  the  surface  is  covered  with  a 
luxuriant  vegetation  to  the  very  top  of  the  mountains ;  the  cocoa-nut 
tree  and  tree-fern  give  the  principal  character  to  this  beautiful  scenery. 
Dead  coral  is  seen  along  the  shores,  above  high-water  mark. 

The  harbour  of  Pago-pago  is  one  of  the  most  singular  in  all  the 
Polynesian  isles.  It  is  the  last  point  at  which  one  would  look  for  a 
place  of  shelter:  the  coast  near  it  is  peculiarly  rugged,  and  has  no 
appearance  of  indentations,  and  ihe  entrance  being  narrow,  is  not 
easily  observed.  Its  shape  has  been  compared  to  a  variety  of  articles: 
that  which  it  most  nearly  resembles  is  a  retort.  It  is  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  inaccessible  mural  precipices,  from  eight  hundred  to  one 
thousand  feet  in  height.  The  lower  parts  of  these  rocks  are  bare,  but 
they  are  clothed  above  with  luxuriant  vegetation.  So  impassable  did 
the  rocky  barrier  appear  in  all  but  two  places,  that  the  harbour  was 
likened  to  the  valley  of  Rasselas  changed  into  a  lake.  The  two  breaks 
in  the  precipice  are  at  the  head  of  the  harbour  and  at  the  Pilot's  Cove. 
The  harbour  is  of  easy  access,  and  its  entrance,  which  is  about  a  third 
of  a  mile  in  width,  is  well  marked  by  the  Tower  Rock  and  Devil's  Point 

*  For  order?,  see  Appendix  V. 


T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 


71 


About  three  miles  to  the  southward,  off  the  mouth  of  the  harbour, 
there  is  a  coral  bank  half  a  mile  long,  on  which  the  sea  breaks  in 
stormy  weather :  the  least  depth  of  water  found  on  it  was  four  and  a 
half  fathoms ;  the  depth  increases  to  the  eastward,  towards  the  island 
of  Anuu. 

As  we  arrived  off  the  harbour  the  wind  grew  light,  and  finally  came 
out  ahead,  thus  compelling  us  to  beat  in  to  our  anchorage,  under  the 
direction  of  Edmund  Foxall,  a  white  pilot.  He  usually  comes  off  to 
vessels  when  within  two  or  three  miles  of  the  harbour,  on  a  signal 
being  made.  We  made  many  tacks  before  we  reached  our  anchorage, 
which  was  in  deep  water,  twenty-rfine  fathoms.  About  half  a  mile 
from  the  entrance  of  the  harbour,  it  bends  at  right  angles.  In  this 
position,  surrounded  by  cliffs,  the  firing  of  a  gun  produces  a  remarkable 
reverberation,  resembling  loud  peals  of  thunder. 

We  were  surrounded,  as  soon  as  we  entered,  by  a  large  number  of 
canoes,  filled  with  natives,  who  all  seemed  delighted  with  the  ship  and 
the  number  of  men  on  board.  When  we  had  moored,  one  of  the 
principal  chiefs,  whose  name  was  Toa,  was  admitted  on  board ;  he 
was  an  athletic,  muscular  man,  of  large  frame,  about  forty  years  of 
age,  with  a  pleasant  expression  of  countenance ;  he  manifested  great 


79  T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

pleasure  in  welcoming  us.  He  began  by  telling  me,  through  the 
interpreter,  that  he  was  a  missionary ;  that  he  had  formerly  been  a 
great  thief,  and  a  doer  of  many  bad  acts,  but  being  now  a  missionary, 
he  was  reformed  and  stole  no  more.  He  told  this  with  such  an  open 
expression  of  countenance  and  so  much  simplicity,  that  I  could  scarcely 
forbear  smiling.  After  I  had  finished  asking  him  questions,  he  con- 
tinued eyeing  me  from  head  to  foot,  as  if  determining  my  dimensions. 
I  told  the  interpreter  to  ask  him  why  he  looked  at  me  so  intently.  He 
replied,  that  he  had  a  coat  on  shore  that  was  too  tight  for  him  about 
the  arms  and  chest,  and  he  believed  it  would  fit  me :  if  so,  he  should 
be  glad  to  exchange  it  for  the  jacket  I  had  on.  Not  being  inclined  to 
this  exchange,  I  ordered  a  small  hatchet  to  be  given  him.  This 
gratified  him  much,  and  he  instantly  went  over  the  ship's  side  to  show 
it  to  his  friends.  This  same  Toa  is  chief  of  the  village  of  Fungasar, 
about  three  miles  distant  from  the  harbour,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
island.  He  learns  to  read  and  write,  being  taught  by  some  of  the 
small  children,  and  attends  school  regularly.  He  became  of  great  use 
to  us,  and  was  a  constant  visiter.  During  one  of  his  visits  on  board, 
he  espied  some  red  umbrellas  among  the  presents,  and  from  that  time 
was  continually  endeavouring  to  obtain  one  for  his  wife,  and  brought 
many  articles  in  the  hope  of  inducing  us  to  part  with  it  in  exchange 
for  them. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  a  place  was  chosen  for  our  observatory, 
and  the  tents  and  instruments  were  landed.  Understanding  that  I 
wanted  to  see  the  sun  and  stars,  I  was  told  by  Mr.  Murray,  the  white 
residents,  and  natives,  that  I  should  have  little  weather  for  observations 
for  the  next  fortnight,  which  proved  literally  true  with  the  exception 
of  the  last  two  days. 

The  geological  character  of  this  island  is  similar  to  that  of  Manua ; 
it  has  only  a  shore-reef  of  coral,  and  soundings  extend  some  distance 
from  it.  It  has  many  desirable  ports  or  bays  on  its  north  side,  where 
vessels  may  obtain  wood,  water,  and  supplies.  The  best  and  safest 
port,  however,  is  that  of  Pago-pago,  on  its  south  side,  which  affords  a 
safe  harbour  for  vessels  to  overhaul,  and  where  supplies  may  be 
obtained  in  abundance. 

Tutuila  is  thickly  settled  round  its  shores,  and  particularly  at  its 
southwestern  end :  this  is  lower  and  more  easily  cultivated  than  the 
eastern,  which  is  high  and  rugged.  The  only  communication  is  by  the 
sea-shore,  the  hills  being  too  precipitous  and  difficult  of  ascent  to  pass 
over. 

The  men  of  Tutuila  are  a  remarkably  tall   fine-looking   set,  with 


T  U  T  U  I  L  A.  73 

intelligent  and  pleasing  countenances.  In  comparison  with  the  Tahi- 
tians,  they  would  be  called  sedate. 

The  women  are  far  from  being  good-looking,  with  the  exception  of 
some  of  the  younger  ones.  They  are  remarkably  domestic  and 
virtuous,  exhibiting  a  strange  contrast  to  those  of  Tahiti.  Here  there 
is  no  indiscriminate  intercourse,  the  marriage  tie  is  respected,  and 
parents  are  extremely  fond  of  their  offspring.  The  inhabitants  are  dis- 
posed to  be  hospitable  to  strangers,  although  they  expect  remuneration 
for  it.  Travelling  is  generally  believed  to  be  safe  throughout  the  island 
of  Tutuila,  and  the  natives,  as  far  as  our  experience  goes,  are  not  the 
blood-thirsty  race  they  have  been  reported  to  be.  The  unfavourable 
estimate  of  their  character  has,  I  presume,  been  derived  from  those 
who  first  knew  them,  and  particularly  from  their  attack  upon  the  expe- 
dition of  La  Perouse.  Of  this  conflict  I  obtained  the  following 
particulars  from  the  Rev.  Mr.  Murray,  who  had  them  from  an  old 
man,  who  was  a  witness  of  the  affray.  The  latter  is  the  only  individual 
now  alive  in  the  settlement  who  was  present  when  it  occurred,  and  his 
testimony  was  corroborated  by  others  who  had  heard  of  it  from  those 
who  witnessed  the  scene. 

On  the  morning  of  the  massacre,  the  vessels  stood  in  towards  the 
land.  About  noon  the  boats  went  ashore,  as  recorded  by  La  Perouse, 
and  while  on  shore,  a  number  of  canoes,  belonging  to  the  island  of 
Upolu  (to  which  Tutuila  was  at  the  time  subject),  went  from  the  shore, 
and  proceeded  directly  to  the  vessels.  When  these  canoes  were 
alongside,  a  young  man  in  one  of  them  laid  his  hand  on  an  iron  bolt  in 
some  part  of  the  ships,  with  the  intention,  it  is  supposed,  of  stealing  it. 
He  was  fired  upon  by  the  French.  The  ball  passed  through  his 
shoulders,  and  mortally  wounded  him.  The  natives,  on  seeing  the 
effect  of  the  shot  on  one  of  their  number,  were  greatly  enraged,  and 
immediately  left  the  vessels,  and  hastened  to  the  shore,  where  they 
found  the  boats  that  had  gone  to  get  water.  On  reaching  them,  they 
began  the  attack,  which  resulted  in  the  massacre  of  M.  De  Langle,  and 
of  those  who  were  with  him  on  shore.  When  the  natives  began  this 
attack,  the  great  body  of  the  French  were  absent  from  their  boats; 
some  were  in  the  bushes  gathering  plants,  and  others  talking  to  the 
females.  On  the  commencement  of  the  disturbance,  they  all  rushed 
towards  their  boats,  and  the  confusion  became  general.  The  minute 
circumstances  of  the  affray,  farther  than  the  above,  cannot  now  be 
ascertained  from  the  natives.  They  are,  however,  very  clear  in  refer- 
ence to  the  cause,  and  to  those  who  were  the  actors  in  it,  viz.,  the 
natives  of  Upolu.  The  Tiiuilians  maintain  that  they  endeavoured  to 
save  the  lives  of  the  French  ;  and,  on  the  following  day,  as  soon  as  they 

VOL.  n.  10 


74  T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

dared  to  venture  from  the  mountains,  whither  they  had  fled  during  the 
massacre,  they  collected  the  bodies,  which  they  found  in  a  state  of 
nudity,  dressed  them  in  native  cloth,  and  buried  them  in  the  beach,  as 
they  were  accustomed  to  bury  their  own  chiefs.  The  actors  in  the 
massacre  proceeded  at  once  to  Upolu,  which  will  account  for  their 
having  been  afterwards  seen  there,  and  recognised  by  the  French.  Our 
inquiries  relative  to  the  spot  where  they  had  buried  the  bodies,  were  not 
satisfactorily  answered.  How  the  carpenter's  son  escaped  is  not  known. 
He  is  said  to  be  still  living  at  a  village  on  the  eastern  part  of  the 
island.  There  appears  to  be  mention  made  of  a  boy  among  the 
missing,  in  La  Perouse's  account.  Levasii,  a  chief  of  the  district  of 
Faleletai,  was  at  the  massacre  of  the  party  of  La  Perouse.  He  was  then 
a  boy  of  thirteen  years  of  age.  He  remembered  the  occurrence,  and 
that  three  of  the  Papalangi  were  killed. 

The  perpetrators  of  the  deed  were  some  young  chiefs  from  the  dis- 
trict, who  were  on  a  "  tnalanga"  to  Tutuila.  At  that  time  Aana  district 
had  the  rule,  or  was  the  "  Malo"  party,  and  domineered  over  the 
inhabitants  of  the  other  islands  and  districts. 

The  village  of  Pago-pago  contains  about  thirty  dwellings,  and  a 
council-house,  which  is  in  use  as  a  church,  until  the  large  one  they 
are  engaged  in  building  shall  be  finished.  Every  village  has  a  council- 
house  for  the  entertainment  of  visitors,  and  the  accommodation  of 
meetings. 

This  island  is  under  several  chiefs,  each  of  whom  rules  over  a 
town,  district,  or  bay.  The  present  chief  of  Pago-pago  is  Mowna, 
the  adopted  son  of  the  last  chief,  Pomale,  who  died  not  long  since, 
leaving  an  only  son,  also  called  Pomale,  who  from  his  great  modesty 
lost  his  inheritance.  Mowna  was  more  crafty  than  Pomale,  and 
understood  well  his  rival's  character.  After  the  death  of  the  old  chief, 
these  two  young  men,  about  the  same  age,  became  candidates  for  the 
succession.  Mowna,  through  his  intrigues,  succeeded  in  getting  the 
whole  family  together  to  decide  between  them.  Both  Mowna  and 
Pomale  were  present,  the  former  appearing  dejected,  silent,  and 
willing  to  leave  the  decision  to  the  meeting;  whilst  Pomale,  when 
asked  who  should  be  chief,  said  with  his  usual  modesty  that  he  was  in 
favour  of  Mowna,  who  was  accordingly  made  chief.  Mowna,  how- 
ever, is  now  so  in  name  only,  for  Pomale  rules  in  fact.  This  arises 
from  his  good  character,  and  the  influence  he  derives  from  the  mis- 
sionaries, of  whom  he  is  one  of  the  most  active  and  pious  supporters, 
and  withal  a  great  preacher.  So  great  is  the  confidence  Mr.  Murray 
has  in  Pomale,  that  he  is  frequently  left  to  take  charge  of  the  congre- 
gation, during  the  absence  of  Mr.  Murray  in  another  part  of  the  island. 


T  U  T  U  I  L  A.  75 

The  greatest  restraint  on  the  conduct  of  the  chiefs,  appears  to  be 
the  fear  of  losing  the  good  name  of  their  ancestors,  and  of  not  handing 
it-down  to  posterity  pure  and  unspotted.  This  feeling  seems  to  govern 
their  conduct,  and  from  the  information  I  received,  may  be  made  use 
of  as  an  appeal  to  them,  to  avoid  doing  evil,  and  to  do  right. 

The  missionary,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Murray,  deserves  the  greatest  credit 
for  this  state  of  things.  He  has  unbounded  influence  over  the  natives, 
and  deserves  it.  The  ten  commandments  are  the  common  law  of  the 
island,  wherever  Christianity  has  taken  root,  and  any  infringement  of 
them  is  surely  punished  ; — the  guilty  persons  being  put  out  of  the 
church,  and  denied  the  privilege  of  attending  worship.  They  are 
looked  upon  as  having  fallen,  and  are  consequently  avoided.  This 
fear  of  public  opinion,  I  was  informed,  was  found  to  be  sufficient  to 
deter  them  from  the  commission  of  crimes  and  immoral  practices. 

The  tapa  or  rugs  worn  by  distinguished  chiefs,  were  preserved,  and 
were  formerly  much  venerated  by  them.  Since  the  introduction  of 
Christianity,  however,  such  has  been  its  influence  that  they  will  now 
readily  part  with  any  thing  of  the  kind.  Pomale  was  induced  to  let 
us  have  those  in  his  possession,  and  also  exchanged  the  "  war  spirit" 
mat  for  a  small  present  for  his  wife. 

On  the  17th,  our  friend  Toa  gave  us  an  invitation  to  visit  him  at 
his  town  of  Fungasar,  on  the  north  side  of  the  island.  It  is  situated 
on  the  next  bay  to  that  now  called  Massacre  Bay,  where  De  Langle 
was  killed.  The  path  across  the  island  is  a  very  difficult  one  to 
travel ;  it  leads  up  through  the  valley,  and  across  the  dividing  ridge, 
which  is  quite  precipitous.  The  rain  which  had  fallen  made  it  very 
slippery,  and  the  journey  was  fatiguing  to  those  not  accustomed  to  this 
kind  of  walking. 

I  was  much  struck  here  with  the  manliness  and  intelligence  of  the 
natives,  and  with  their  frank  open  expression  of  countenance.  The 
colour  of  their  complexion  is  rather  darker  than  that  of  the  natives 
of  Tahiti.  The  outlines  of  face  and  figure  are  very  like  those  we  had 
left,  their  hair  and  eyes  black,  and  their  teeth  good  and  white.  Some 
of  them  had  frizzled  hair,  but  it  was  generally  straight. 

Just  before  arriving  at  the  village,  we  were  met  by  Toa,  and  some  of 
his  relations  and  attendants,  who  welcomed  us  to  his  village,  saluting 
me  by  rubbing  his  nose  with  my  hand ;  this  is  the  usual  custom. 

He  ordered  a  pig,  taro,  bread-fruit,  &c.,  &c.,  for  our  entertainment. 
These  were  cooked  in  the  universal  Polynesian  mode,  by  being 
covered  up  in  a  hole  with  hot  stones.  We  were  soon  told  that  the 
feast  was  ready,  but  having  had  some  experience  of  their  cooking,  we 


76  T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

desired  it  might  remain  in  the  oven  a  little  while  longer.  Their  usual 
custom  is  to  take  it  out  the  moment  that  the  taro  is  cooked,  and  from 
daily  practice  they  are  well  acquainted  with  the  time  required  to  cook 
it.  This  is  scarcely  sufficient  to  give  the  pig  time  to  be  warmed 
through.  Our  request  prevailed,  and  in  the  course  of  half  an  hour  we 
were  summoned  to  the  council-house  or  fale-tele,  where  strangers  are 
always  entertained.  We  were  shown  our  seats,  on  one  side  of  a  circle, 
.while  Ton,  with  his  family  and  friends,  occupied  the  other.  The 
mats,  except  one,  were  not  very  clean.  The  pig,  which  must  have 
weighed  one  hundred  pounds,  was  brought  in,  and  laid  with  the  taro 
and  bread-fruit  on  banana-leaves.  A  butcher's  knife  was  all  that  we 
possessed  to  carve  it  with.  The  whole  village,  old  and  young,  men, 
women,  and  children,  who  were  waiting  in  anxious  expectation  for 
their  share,  now  surrounded  us,  and  made  it  uncomfortable  to  eat, 
with  so  many  hungry  expectants  ;  I  made  haste,  therefore,  to  divide 
it,  and  with  it  they  soon  dispersed.  The  taro  was  exceedingly  well 
cooked,  dry,  and  farinaceous.  The  bread-fruit  they  said  was  too 
young,  and  not  being  considered  good  by  them,  they  objected  to 
giving  us  any  of  it,  but  did  not  hesitate  to  eat  it  themselves.  A  pig  is 
a  great  treat  to  them,  for  although  they  have  plenty,  they  prefer  selling 
to  eating  them. 

All  kinds  of  provisions  in  these  islands  are  enhancing  in  value,  and 
will  continue  to  do  so.  It  is  remarkable  how  the  prices  fluctuate.  On 
some  days  provisions  of  all  kinds  will  be  exceedingly  cheap,  and  almost 
any  article  will  be  taken  in  exchange  ;  and  then  again  nothing  can  be 
found  to  please  the  natives,  or  induce  them  to  trade,  although  the 
quantity  for  sale  is  equally  as  great.  It  was  not  a  little  amusing  to  see 
the  natives  sitting  whole  days  to  obtain  the  price  of  their  fowl  or  pig, 
and  persisting  in  their  refusal  of  the  offer  made;  and  this  was  some- 
times done  by  a  large  number  at  the  same  time,  all  remaining  true  to 
each  other  until  their  poe  or  food  became  exhausted,  when  they  would 
take  the  earliest  opportunity  of  disposing  of  their  different  parcels. 

In  the  grove  near  the  village,  we  saw  several  piles  of  stones.  I  was 
told  they  were  the  graves  in  which  they  formerly  buried  the  dead,  just 
below  the  surface.  On  the  top  were  placed  stones,  forming  a  high 
pile.  Now  they  bury  their  dead  in  graves  about  three  feet  deep,  and 
enclose  them  with  the  Dracaena,  which  grows  rapidly,  and  forms  a 
pretty  and  neat  trellis, 

Toa  became  quite  communicative,  and  as  he  showed  me  about  his 
village,  he  told  me,  through  the  interpreter,  that  before  the  missionaries 
came,  the  chiefs  all  had  their  "  aitu"  or  spirits,  which  they  worshipped, 


T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 


77 


and  that  they  felt  themselves  obliged  to  do  every  thing  they  com- 
manded. His  aitu  were  fresh-water  eels,  which  he  constantly  fed  in 
the  brook  near  the  village.  I  visited  it,  and  requested  him  to  catch 
one,  which  he  attempted  to  do  ;  but  after  a  long  search,  turning  over 
large  stones,  and  examining  holes,  he  was  unsuccessful.  He  said  there 
were  many  in  it  formerly,  and  quite  tame;  but  since  he  had  embraced 
Christianity,  they  had  all  been  caught  and  destroyed.  On  farther  ques- 
tioning him,  he  told  me  that  he  had  himself  eaten  them  ;  and  that 
formerly  if  any  one  had  touched,  disturbed,  or  attempted  to  catch  one, 
he  should  have  killed  him  immediately.  He  said  his  eels  were  very 
good  to  eat,  and  was  sorry  he  could  not  find  any  more;  and  laughed 
very  heartily  when  I  spoke  to  him  about  eating  his  aitu.  I  mention 
this  circumstance  to  show  the  powerful  effect  the  Christian  religion 
has  had  upon  the  ancient  customs  of  this  people. 

After  much  persuasion,  they  were  induced  to  sing  some  of  their  old 
war-songs.  Mr.  Drayton  wrote  one  down  as  a  specimen  of  their 
music  ;  the  words  were  written  by  one  of  the  interpreters. 


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faa  -  fi    tui  -  le 


a    -   la    a    -    la        po  -  po  -  to      ar    -     fi    -    ti 


To  the  above  they  sing  a  kind  of  second,  with  very  correct  harmony. 
They  do  not  seem  to  have  any  particular  air  among  them,  and  in  sing- 
in"-  the  above,  they  did  not  sound  the  same  notes  every  time.  All  their 
music  sounds  alike,  and  the  above  will  give  a  good  idea  of  it.  A  trans- 
lation of  the  song  was  made  by  the  same  interpreter,  and  is  as  follows. 

A  chief  of  Samoa  attacks  an  enemy  on  another  island  and  conquers. 
After  the  victors  have  embarked  safely  for  their  island,  they  sing  as 
follows : 

"Keep  her  away,  and  mind  the  helm." 

And  when  they  get  home,  the  people  sing, — 

"  We  are  glad  you  have  come  to  your  island  of  plenty, 
We  have  waited  a  long  time  for  our  chief  and  canoes." 


78  T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

Toa,  after  his  unsuccessful  search  for  his  favourite  eels,  went  into  the 
brook  for  a  bath,  which  he  told  me  he  very  frequently  did  during  the 
day ;  and  it  was  delightful  to  see  the  pleasure  he  took  in  it.  The 
natives,  indeed,  are  almost  constantly  in  the  water,  and,  consequently, 
very  cleanly  in  their  persons.  Finding  that  it  occupied  too  much  of 
their  thoughts  on  the  Sabbath,  bathing  on  that  day  has  been  forbidden. 

This  village  contained  about  forty  houses,  of  a  large  and  commo- 
dious size,  and  about  two  hundred  inhabitants,  a  number  of  whom 
were  absent  on  a  visit  to  Upolu. 

Towards  evening,  we  took  our  leave  of  Toa,  thanking  him  warmly 
for  his  kindness ;  we  were  escorted  to  the  outside  of  the  village  by  his 
friends  and  relations,  whilst  Toa  himself  accompanied  us  to  Pago- 
pago. 

The  natives  have  no  fixed  time  for  meals,  eating  whenever  they  feel 
hungry.  Their  food  consists  of  pork,  fish,  bread-fruit,  cocoa-nuts, 
bananas,  &c.,  but  principally  of  taro.  All  of  these  are  produced  in 
abundance.  Water  is  their  common  drink,  and,  notwithstanding 
cocoa-nuts  are  so  abundant,  the  milk  is  seldom  used :  the  trouble  of 
procuring  them  is  too  much  for  them.  They  use  ava  made  from  the 
Piper  mythisticum,  and  it  is  the  only  intoxicating  drink  they  have.* 
It  is  never  used  to  excess,  although  old  and  young,  male  and  female, 
are  very  fond  of  it.  The  taste,  to  one  unaccustomed  to  it,  is  not 
pleasant,  being  somewhat  similar  to  that  of  rhubarb  and  magnesia. 
Their  mode  of  preparing  it  is  the  same  as  has  already  been  described. 

They  sleep  on  the  large  coarse  mats  with  which  they  always  cover 
the  floors  of  their  houses.  Over  these  they  spread  coloured  tapas, 
some  of  which  are  also  used  for  nets  of  protection  against  the  numerous 
musquitoes.  For  a  pillow  they  use  a  piece  of  bamboo  supported  on 
small  legs.  Their  hair  is  frequently  shorn  close,  and  coral,  lime,  or 
ashes  sprinkled  over  it  to  destroy  the  vermin,  which  are  generated  in 
great  numbers  in  their  tapas  and  mats. 

According  to  old  Toa,  a  native  is  in  a  comfortable  condition  when 
he  has  a  good  house;  a  well-made  visiting  canoe;  a  neat,  handy,  large 
and  well-formed  woman  for  a  wife;  a  taro-patch  with  a  good  fence; 
cocoa-nut,  and  bread-fruit  trees,  with  a  reasonable  number  of  pigs. 

The  women  are  now  admitted  to  the  same  privileges  as  the  men. 
The  chiefs  have  still  great  power  over  the  people,  although  the  influ- 
ence of  the  missionaries  has  tended  greatly  to  diminish  it.  Most  of 
the  people  look  back  to  the  days  when  polygamy  existed  with  regret, 

*  The  ava  does  not,  according  to  the  whites,  intoxicate  in  the  same  manner  as  ardent 
spirits,  but  produces  a  temporary  paralysis,  tremors,  and  a  confused  feeling  about  the  head, 
indistinctness  and  distortion  of  vision,  somewhat  resembling  the  effect  of  opium. 


T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 


79 


and  cannot  understand  why  they  are  restricted  to  one  wife.  They  say, 
"  Why  should  God  be  so  unreasonable  as  to  require  them  to  give  up 
all  their  wives  but  one  for  his  convenience  ?"  They  pay  just  attention 
to  their  religious  duties;  morning  and  evening  prayers  are  always  said, 
as  is  grace  before  their  meals,  and  with  a  devotion  rarely  to  be  seen 
among  civilized  men. 

Their  amusements  seem  to  be  few ;  their  books  are  constantly  before 
them,  and  a  great  portion  of  their  time  is  employed  over  them.  Old 
gray-headed  men  may  be  seen  poring  over  the  alphabet,  and  taught  by 
some  of  the  youngest  of  the  family.  The  employment  of  the  men  is  to 
cultivate  and  weed  the  taro,  and  to  take  care  of  the  fences ;  they  also 
make  sennit  for  their  houses,  and  canoes  for  fishing.  The  women  are 
engaged  in  making  mats,  and  the  boys  and  girls  play,  and  wait  upon 
their  seniors. 

Next  to  study,  fishing  is  their  great  employment.  This  is  performed 
by  driving  the  fish  towards  the  nets  in  shoal  water,  where  they  are 
easily  caught.  The  cast-net  is  also  used. 

The  only  amusement  we  saw,  is  a  game  called  lafo-tupe,  which  is 
pbyed  with  cocoa-nut  shells,  and  resembles  shuffle-board. 

Mr.  Murray  is  an  amiable  as  well  as  a  truly  pious  man,  and  the 
natives  have  imitated  the  example  set  by  him.  He  studiously  avoids 
any  intercourse  with  them  in  the  way  of  trade  or  barter,  except  so 
much  as  is  necessary  for  the  provision  of  his  own  family,  and  devotes 
his  whole  time  to  preaching  and  teaching  the  gospel.  He  is  one  of 
the  missionaries  engaged  in  translating  the  Bible,  many  parts  of  which 
are  now  completed,  and  extensively  used  by  the  natives,  many  of  whom 
read  and  write  well. 

Their  observance  of  the  Sabbath  is  very  strict ;  and  it  is  impossible 
to  get  a  native  to  do  any  thing  whatsoever  on  that  day,  but  perform 
his  religious  duties.  They  attend  church  regularly.  In  Mr.  Murray's 
congregation  there  are  about  thirty  communicants,  and  nearly  one 
thousand  attendants  on  public  worship.  They  come  from  many  of  the 
surrounding  villages.  Mr.  Murray  has  been  here  about  three  years, 
and  the  native  preachers  nine  or  ten ;  he  is  well  acquainted  with  the 
difficulties  of  his  station,  but  seemed  to  feel  assured  that  his  exertions 
were  about  being  crowned  with  success.  He  represented  to  me  that 
the  natives  were  very  tractable,  and  desired  exceedingly  to  be  taught  ; 
that  they  had  much  application,  seemed  to  comprehend  many  things, 
and  were  certainly  not  surpassed  in  intelligence  by  any  of  the  natives 
of  Polynesia. 

Polygamy,  which  formerly  was  practised  to  a  great  extent,  still 
exists  among  those  who  have  not  been  converted. 


80  T  U  T  U  I  I-  A. 

Circumcision  is  practised  among  them. 

They  carry  their  children  in  the  same  singular  manner  on  the  hip, 
as  was  shown  in  wood-cut  of  the  low  archipelago.     They  are  early 
betrothed,  without  regard  to  age,  the  girl  being  saa,  or  tabooed,  until 
of  marriageable  age.     During  the  intervening  time,  all  kinds  of  native 
property  are    accumulated,  such    as    mats,  &c.,  for  the    bridal    day. 
Two  days  previous  to  it,  the  inhabitants  of  the  district  are  gathered 
together  for  feasting  and  dancing.      On  the  third    day.  the  bride  is 
produced  before  the  assembled  multitude,  and  the  ceremony  attendant 
on  marriage  that  was  customary  among  the  Jews  performed.     After 
the  marriage  had  been  consummated,  the  dowry  was  exhibited,  and 
each  article  being  held  up  it  was  proclaimed  by  whom  it  was  pre- 
sented ;  the  multitude,  having  consumed  all  the  eatables,  and  exhausted 
their  strength  in  rioting  and  debauchery,  dispersed. 
Infanticide  has  never  been  practised  on  this  island. 
I  have  seldom  seen  a  more  devout  or  attentive  collection  of  people 
than  I  observed  at  times  in  the  church  meeting,  which  was  held  in  the 
council-house  at  Pago-pago  ;  the  new  church  was  undergoing  altera- 
tions;  for  on  its  being  completed,  it  was  found  it  would  not  accommo- 
date the  congregation,  when  they  determined  to  enlarge  it. 

Upon  the  conclusion  of  a  long  service,  they  were  observed  to  divide 
themselves  into  three  parties  ;  one  remaining  in  the  church,  and  the 
other  two  repairing  to  different  buildings.  The  object  of  this  was,  that 
they  might  listen  to  instructions  from  their  native  teachers  explanatory 
of  the  sermon,  and  also  receive  exhortations  to  put  away  all  that  is 
unbecoming  to  the  Christian  character.  The  afternoon  is  employed 
in  further  explanations  and  examinations  by  the  missionaries.  The 
native  missionaries  have  also  meetings  on  Fridays. 

Their  mode  of  singing  hymns  is  peculiar,  the  \vhole  mass  joining 
in  some  parts,  with  all  the  lungs  they  could  muster.  This  exercise 
appeared  to  a  fiord  them  great  delight.  The  congregation  weje  mostly 
dressed  in  tapas,  or  clothed  in  one  sort  of  garment  or  other ;  but  the 
person  who  attracted  our  attention  most,  was  the  consort  of  Pomale. 
From  being  the  wife  of  the  most  influential  personage,  she  had 
received  more  presents  from  us  than  any  other;  and  she  endeavoured, 
on  this  occasion,  to  display  on  her  person  the  greater  part,  if  not  all, 
that  she  had  thus  acquired.  These  consisted  of  a  red  calico  gown, 
four  or  five  petticoats  of  different  colours,  woollen  socks,  green  slip- 
pers, cap  and  bonnet,  a  large  plaid  blanket  shawl,  and  a  pair  of  polar 
gloves,  the  whole  surmounted  by  a  flaming  red  silk  umbrella — and  this 
with  the  thermometer  at  87°  !  It  was  difficult  to  keep  our  eyes  off 
her  during  the  service,  and  before  the  end  of  it,  all  her  finery  became 


T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 


81 


awry.  The  other  natives  also  seemed  to  have  the  desire  of  exhibiting 
their  acquisitions,  though  these  consisted  frequently  of  no  more  than  a 
vest,  or  a  pair  of  pantaloons,  without  shirt,  or  occasionally  of  a  long- 
skirted  coat,  without  either  of  the  former  garments,  so  that  a  small 
roll  of  tapa  was  needed  to  cover  their  nether  parts. 

Some  unauthorized  attempts  were  made  to  induce  the  natives  to 
break  the  missionary  laws,  by  offers  of  great  value  in  their  eyes ;  they 
were  told  the  missionaries  would  not  see  them.  On  understanding 

O 

which,  they  pointed  to  the  heavens,  and  replied,  "  There  missionary 
see."  This  was  conclusive,  and  a  just  and  severe  rebuke. 

The  Peacock  and  Flying-Fish  again  joined  us  on  the  18th  of 
October,  in  eight  days  from  Papieti.  Orders  were  at  once  given  them 
to  proceed  to  Upolu,  to  commence  the  survey  of  that  island.  (See 
Appendix  VI.)  They  did  not  sail,  however,  until  the  20th,  having  been 
detained  by  the  winds.  The  harbour  of  Pago-pago,  though  easy  of 
access,  is  extremely  difficult  to  leave,  in  consequence  of  the  southeast 
trade-winds  blowing  directly  in,  and  rendering  it  necessary  to  make 
short  tacks.  Indeed,  a  vessel  no  sooner  gets  headway  on  one  tack, 
than  it  is  found  necessary  to  tack  again.  The  sea  is  often  heavy  at 
the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  and  the  shore  is  lined  with  a  narrow  coral 
reef  all  around  it.  I  was  glad  to  see  the  Peacock  safe  outside,  after 
beating  about  four  hours. 

During  our  stay  on  this  island,  the  whole  was  examined,  the  harbour 
surveyed,  and  the  principal  heights  determined.  Tide-gauges  were 
kept  on  the  north  and  south  sides,  and  the  observations  for  magnetic 
dip,  variation,  and  intensity,  made.  The  temperature  during  our  stay 
of  fourteen  days  varied  from  73°  to  88°;  the  mean  temperature 
was  80-50°. 

The  climate  of  Tutuila  is  mild  and  agreeable,  particularly  at  Pago- 
pago,  where  the  temperature  is  lower  than  it  is  elsewhere  on  the 
island,  in  consequence  of  its  generally  being  overshadowed  with 
clouds  that  hang  on  the  high  land.  There  is  usually  a  fine  breeze, 
which  sets  in  about  ten  o'clock,  and  continues  until  sunset.  The 
nights  being  calm,  much  dew  falls  in  fine  weather.  We  had  little 
fair  weather  during  our  stay,  and  the  prognostication  of  the  natives 
proved  too  true,  respecting  the  difficulty  of  seeing  the  sun  and  stars. 
The  wind  at  times  was  very  strong,  almost  a  gale,  accompanied  by 
light  rain  and  mist.  I  was  informed  that  there  is  a  good  deal  of  rain 
during  the  year,  but  seldom  such  a  continuance  of  it  as  we  experienced. 
There  does  not  appear  to  be  any  particular  rainy  season,  but  they  are 
liable  to  these  high  winds  during  the  winter  months,  or  from  October 

VOL.  n.  11 


82  T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 

to  March.*  I  obtained  from  the  pilot  a  register  of  the  weather  from 
January,  1839,  till  October  of  the  same  year,  which  will  show  more 
clearly  the  state  of  the  climate.  This  will  be  found  in  Appendix  VII. 

In  our  explorations,  nearly  all  the  villages  of  this  island  vere  visited 
by  some  of  the  officers  of  the  squadron,  and  from  their  report  they 
much  resemble  each  other.  Those  of  Fagaitua  and  Leone,  on  the 
southern  coast,  are  the  largest,  and  are  more  of  the  Devil's  towns  than 
the  others.  One  of  their  customs  is  truly  savage.  They  seldom  use 
pork  as  a  food,  consequently  it  is  a  great  rarity  with  them ;  but  at 
intervals  of  several  months  the  villagers  assemble  at  a  feast,  at  which 
thirty  or  forty  hogs  are  killed,  when  they  gormandize  on  them  for  four 
or  five  days,  or  as  long  as  the  food  lasts.  The  whole  is  eaten,  entrails 
and  all.  Fish  and  taro  are  the  principal  food,  and  large  numbers  of  the 
natives  may  be  seen  fishing  off  the  coast  in  fine  weather.  The  kind  of 
fish  usually  caught  are  mullet. 

There  is  a  large  kind  of  worm  which  they  esteem  a  great  delicacy, 
and  which  is  eaten  with  much  relish.  It  is  impossible  to  see  them 
sucking  down  the  entrails  of  the  biche-de-mar,  holithuria,  and  echina, 
without  disgust.  They  also  eat  many  of  the  shell-fish  that  are  found 
on  the  shore. 

The  temperature  found  on  the  top  of  Matafoa,  at  the  altitude  of  two 
thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty-nine  feet,  was  at  4  r.  M.,  69-4°,  whilst 
that  on  board  the  ship  was  79-5°. 

We  made  an  endeavour  here  to  search  the  reefs  at  night  for  shells, 
with  flambeaux  or  torchlight,  after  the  manner  of  the  Chain  Islanders, 
by  which  means  it  is  said  that  many  species  of  shells  are  taken,  which 
are  never  seen  by  daylight.  We  cannot  vouch  for  this  being  the  case, 
our  experiment  not  having  succeeded.  The  leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut 
were  either  too  green  or  too  wet  to  burn.  If  success  really  attends  this 
method,  it  is  a  singular  trait  in  the  economy  of  mollusca,  which  are 
generally  supposed  to  be  partial  to  daylight.  It  was  my  determination 
to  make  another  trial,  under  more  favourable  circumstances;  but  from 
our  constant  occupation  and  fatigue  of  the  crew  in  the  daytime,  we 
were  unable  to  renew  the  experiment. 

A  few  days  before  leaving  Pago-pago,  Mr.  Murray  brought  to  my 
notice  the  account  of  a  murder  that  was  supposed  to  have  been  com- 
mitted on  a  foreigner  at  the  west  end  of  the  island,  for  the  sake  of  the 
little  property  he  had  about  him.  The  report,  however,  appeared  to  me 
to  be  too  vague  to  authorize  any  delay  for  the  purpose  of  making  an 

*  During  eleven  days  of  our  stay,  the  quantity  of  rain  that  fell  was  4  6    inches. 


T  U  T  U  I  L  A. 


83 


examination  into  it;  and  finding  the  man  was  reported  to  be  a  runaway 
convict,  I  had  no  right  to  interfere  in  the  affair,  and  therefore,  took  no 
steps  to  inquire  into  it. 

On  the  7th  of  November,  1837,  this  harbour  exhibited  one  of  those 
remarkable  phenomena  of  the  oscillation  of  the  tidal  wave.  The  obser- 
vations made  on  it  are  extracted  from  the  letter  of  a  missionary 
resident  at  Pago-pago,  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Mills,  of  Upolu,  who  obligingly 
gave  me  permission  to  copy  them.  They  will  be  found  in  Appendix 
VIII. 

The  weather  during  the  preceding  evening  was  boisterous,  with  fre- 
quent squalls  from  the  east,  which  continued  till  7  A.  M.,  from  which 
time  the  day  was  cloudy,  with  frequent  light  showers.  After  5  p.  M.,  it 
continued  to  rain  until  ten  o'clock  at  night.  On  the  8th,  the  tide  con- 
tinued to  ebb  and  flow  in  an  irregular  manner.  The  day  was  fine  and 
very  warm.  This  phenomenon  does  not  appear  to  have  been  observed 
at  any  other  place  in  the  Samoan  Group,  but  was  experienced,  as  will 
be  noticed  hereafter,  at  the  Group  Hawaii. 

The  peculiar  formation  of  the  harbour  of  Pago-pago,  would  make  it 
more  likely  to  be  observed  there  than  elsewhere.  The  ordinary  rise 
of  the  tide  is  no  more  than  four  and  a  half  feet,  and  neither  before, 
during  the  continuance,  nor  after  this  phenomenon,  wrere  any  shocks 
of  earthquakes  observed  in  any  part  of  the  group  where  missionaries 
are  settled. 


NAVIGATOR  CLUBS,  ETC. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


CONTENTS. 

DEPARTURE  OF  THE  VINCENNES  FROM  TUTUILA  —  HER  NARROW  ESCAPE  FROM 
WRECK  —  APPEARANCE  OF  UPOLU  —  MESSAGE  FROM  CAPTAIN  HUDSON  —  CASE  OF 
TUVAI  —  COUNCIL  OF  THE  CHIEFS  —  ARGUMENTS  IN  BEHALF  OF  TUVAI  — CAPTAIN 
HUDSON'S  REPLY— DECISION  OF  THE  CASE  OF  TUVAI— HIS  BEHAVIOUR— COMPLAINTS 
OF  THE  NATIVES  AGAINST  WHALERS  —  PEA'S  VISIT  TO  TUVAI  -  OUTRAGES  OF 
OPOTUNO— VISIT  TO  MR.  WILLIAMS— INTERVIEW  WITH  MALIETOA— HIS  DAUGHTER 
—  REQUEST  FOR  A  COUNCIL  OF  CHIEFS  — THE  VINCENNES  ORDERED  INTO  PORT  — 
SURVEYING  PARTIES— LAKE  OF  LAUTO— ITS  LEGEND— SUPERSTITION  REGARDING  IT 
—MOUNT  TOFUA— SUBTERRANEAN  STREAMS— GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE  OF  UPOLU— 
STREAMS  OF  LAVA  —  CAVERNS  —  SWALLOWS  AT  SANG  A  —  WATERFALLS  —  GIMBLET 
RELIGION— ATTEMPT  TO  CAPTURE  OPOTUNO— FONO,  OR  COUNCIL,  OF  HIGH  CHIEFS- 
ITS  OBJECT— MR.  J.  WILLIAMS  RECOGNISED  AS  CONSUL— REGULATIONS  DISCUSSED 
AND  ADOPTED— DEMAND  FOR  OPOTUNO— FONO  ADJOURNED— ITS  SECOND  MEETING- 
SPEECH  OF  MALIETOA'S  ORATOR  — REWARD  OFFERED  FOR  THE  APPREHENSION  OF 
OPOTUNO— TERRITORIAL  DIVISIONS  OF  UPOLU-TYRANNY  OF  TAMAFAGO-WAR  OF 
AANA— DESOLATION  OF  THAT  DISTRICT— ISL'AND  OF  MANONO— ISLAND  OF  APOLIMA 
—PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  PORPOISE  AT  SAVAII  — DR.  PICKERING  AND  LIEUTENANT 
MAURY  LAND  THERE— SURVEY  OF  THE  COAST  OF  SAVAII— NATIVE  MISSIONARY  AT 
SALACHUA— FELIALUPO— ASAU— BAY  OF  MATAATUA— PECULIARITIES  OF  ITS  INHABI- 
TANTS —  SAPAPALE  —  DR.  PICKERING'S  JOURNEY  IN  THE  INTERIOR  OF  SAVAII  — 
ri'lMOSITY  OF  THE  NATIVES  —  FISHING  ON  THE  CORAL  REEF  —  DESCRIPTION  OF 
SAVAII  — ITS  PEAK  — ITS  INTERIOR— ITS  WANT  OF  STREAMS— ITS  CORAL  REEF— ITS 
SOI  I. -THE  PORPOISE  PROCEEDS  TO  TUTUILA,  AND  THENCE  TO  UPOLU— REUNION  OF 
THE  FQUADRON— REVIEW  OF  THE  MARINES— EARTHQUAKES. 


(85) 


UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  S  A  V  A  I  I. 


89 


that  Tuvai  should  be  promptly  punished,  in  order  that  others  might  be 
deterred  from  the  commission  of  the  same  crime.  He  suggested, 
however,  that  in  spite  of  the  universal  belief  in  Tuvai's  having  com- 
mitted the  crime,  it  was  proper  that  he  should  undergo  a  trial,  or  at 
least  an  examination,  in  order  that  he  might  have  the  privilege  of 
being  heard  in  his  own  defence. 

This  suggestion  being  approved,  Tuvai  was  brought  on  shore  under 
a  military  guard,  and  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  building.  He  was  an 
ill-looking  fellow,  of  about  twenty-eight  years  of  age,  and  manifested 
no  fear,  but  looked  about  him  with  the  greatest  composure. 

The  trial  was  simple  enough :  he  was  first  asked  by  the  chiefs 
whether  he  was  guilty  of  the  crime,  to  which  he  answered  that  he  was  ; 
being  next  asked  why  he  had  committed  it,  he  replied  that  he  had  done 
it  in  order  to  possess  himself  of  the  man's  property,  (clothes  and  a 
knife.) 

The  chiefs,  among  whom  was  Pea,  of  Apia,  to  whom  the  criminal 
was  distantly  related,  made  every  effort  in  their  power  to  save  his  life  ; 
stating  that  he  was  in  darkness,  and  therefore  unconscious  of  the  guilt 
of  the  action,  when  he  committed  the  murder  ;  that  as  they  had  but  just 
emerged  from  heathenism  they  ought  not  to  be  subjected  for  past 
actions,  to  laws  they  knew  not ;  that  these  laws  were  made  for  people 
who  occupied  a  more  elevated  station  ;  that  Tuvai  was  a  poor  man  of 
no  account,  and  was  not  a  person  of  sufficient  importance  to  be  noticed 
by  a  great  people  like  us;  that  faa  Samoa  (the  Samoan  fashion)  did 
not  allow  men  t<7  be  put  to  death  in  cold  blood,  but  that  after  so  long  a 
time  had  elapsed,  as  in  the  instance  before  them,  it  admitted  of  a 
ransom. 

Pea  went  on  to  say,  that  many  bad  acts  had  been  committed  upon 
natives  by  white  men,  with  impunity,  and  asked  whether  the  Christian 
religion  sanctioned  the  taking  of  human  life.  He  then  appealed  to  our 
generosity  to  pardon  the  present  crime,  and  assured  us  that  no  such 
offences  should  be  committed  in  future. 

Pea  had  one  of  those  countenances  which  exhibits  all  that  is  passing 
in  the  mind.  It  was  amusing  to  see  him  at  one  time  exhibiting  a 
picture  of  whimsical  distress  at  the  idea  of  being  compelled  to  put  his 
kinsman  to  death,  and  immediately  afterwards  laughing  at  something 
ludicrous  which  had  occurred  to  him. 

Pea  was  seconded  in  his  endeavours  by  Vavasa,  of  Manono,  one  of 
the  finest-looking  of  the  chiefs,  whose  attitudes  and  movements  were 
full  of  grace,  and  his  manner  exceedingly  haughty  and  bold. 

In  reply  to  their  arguments,  Captain  Hudson  stated,  that  however 
freely  other  sins  might  be  forgiven,  in  consideration  of  their  late 

VOL.  ii.  12 


90  UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII. 

benighted  state,  even  the  darkness  of  Paganism  could  not  extenuate 
the  crime  of  murder.  He  told  them  that  the  Scriptures  said,  "  Whoso 
sheddeth  man's  blood,  by  man  shall  his  blood  be  shed  ;"  that  nothing 
but  the  life  of  the  offender  could  satisfy  the  demands  of  justice,  and  that 
they  must  execute  the  criminal  themselves. 

This  announcement  caused  much  excitement ;  the  chiefs  again 
asserted  that  they  knew  no  such  laws ;  that  by  the  customs  of  Samoa, 
the  anger  of  the  friends  and  relations  of  a  person  who  had  been  killed 
was  to  be  appeased  by  a  present  from  the  criminal  or  his  relations,  and 
by  a  form  of  submission,  which  consisted  in  knocking  their  heads  three 
times  on  the  ground.  To  this  it  was  replied,  that  the  guilt  of  the 
prisoner  had  been  proved  and  admitted — he  must  die. 

The  chief?,  after  much  reluctance,  consented,  but  expressed  great 
repugnance  to  an  immediate  execution.  They  urged  in  the  most 
strenuous  manner,  that  the  criminal  should  be  carried  on  board  ship, 
and  executed  there,  or  that  he  should  be  taken  to  some  uninhabited 
island  and  left.  These  alternatives  were  refused  by  Captain  Hudson, 
and  the  chiefs  seemed  in  great  distress. 

At  this  point  of  the  discussion,  the  Vincennes  was  announced  as  being 
in  sight,  and  the  proceedings  were  suspended.  An  officer  was  imme- 
diately despatched,  who,  as  has  been  already  mentioned,  boarded  that 
vessel  oft"  the  harbour. 

When  I  landed,  I  found  the  assembly  anxiously  awaiting  the  result 
of  my  arrival.  Captain  Hudson  and  myself  had  a  private  interview,  in 
which  he  detailed  all  the  facts,  and  stated  that  it  had  been  his  intention 
to  compel  the  chiefs  to  make  all  the  preparations  for  the  execution,  but 
before  it  was  carried  into  effect  to  come  forward  and  reprieve  the 
criminal,  at  the  same  time  requesting  Mr.  Mills  to  make  an  appropriate 
speech,  stating  the  reasons  for  the  pardon. 

After  a  full  discussion  of  the  whole  subject,  we  came  to  the  conclu- 
sion, that  it  would  be  best  to  transport  the  criminal  to  some  other 
island  ;  for  it  appeared  probable  that  this  would  have  a  better  effect  than 
even  his  execution,  as  it  would  be  longer  remembered,  while  to  cause 
him  to  be  put  to  death  might  naturally  excite  a  desire  of  revenge. 

This  decision  was  at  once  communicated  to  the  chiefs,  with  a 
statement,  that  in  conformity  with  the  laws  of  Tahiti  in  such  cases, 
Tuvai  should  be  transported  to  a  desert  island,  where  he  would  never 
again  have  an  opportunity  of  killing  a  white  man.  The  chiefs,  although 
evidently  relieved  from  the  most  intense  part  of  their  distress,  were 
still  much  affected  by  this  decision. 

The  prisoner  was  then  ordered  to  be  taken  on  board  the  Peacock, 
whither  he  wras  followed  by  a  crowd  of  natives,  with  many  tears  and 


U  P  O  L  U  —  M  A  N  O  N  O  —  S  A.  V  A  I  I.  91 

lamentations,  among  whom  his  wife  was  the  most  affected.  Among 
others,  Pea,  the  chief  of  Apia,  to  whom,  as  has  been  stated,  the  prisoner 
was  related,  was  very  much  distressed  and  excited.  Unable  to  vent 
his  rage  and  trouble  in  any  other  manner,  he  spent  it  upon  the  crowd 
around  him,  striking  in  all  directions  with  a  huge  stem  of  a  cocoa-nut 
leaf,  by  which  he  soon  dispersed  them.  I  felt  a  curiosity  to  see  what 
effect  the  sentence  would  have  upon  the  prisoner.  Death  he  would 
have  suffered  without  uttering  a  murmur ;  but  when  he  heard  he  was 
to  be  taken  from  his  native  land,  his  firmness  was  overcome,  and  he 
was  observed  to  shed  tears.  He  made  no  resistance  to  his  being  removed 
on  board  ship,  but  after  he  got  there  he  said  he  would  rather  be  put  to 
death  and  buried  in  his  own  native  island,  than  banished  to  a  desert 
one. 

After  this  difficult  business  was  arranged,  they  brought  their  own 
grievances  before  me,  and  particularly  their  complaints  against  the 
American  whalers.  They  said  that  some  of  them  had  evaded  their 
port-charges,  and  refused  to  pay  for  the  provisions  with  which  they 
had  been  furnished.  To  this  I  replied  that  I  was  ready  to  indemnify 
them  for  their  losses,  and  should  ask  no  other  proof  of  them  than  their 
own  statement.  They  appeared  struck  with  the  unexpected  liberality 
of  this  offer ;  but,  after  consultation,  as  if  to  manifest  a  corresponding 
feeling,  declined  to  accept  it.  I  then  informed  them  that  their  port- 
charges  for  the  squadron  should  be  paid,  which  gave  much  satisfaction, 
particularly  to  old  Pea,  who  would  derive  the  principal  benefit  from 
them.  The  fono  then  broke  up  in  great  good  humour. 

Pea  and  some  of  the  other  chiefs  were  very  anxious  to  hear  from 
me  what  sort  of  an  island  Tuvai  was  to  be  put  upon.  They  asked 
many  questions  in  relation  to  it,  and  always  among  the  first,  whether 
there  would  be  any  cocoa-nut  trees,  Nature's  first  and  best  gift  to  them, 
upon  it.  Wishing  to  make  the  intended  punishment  as  terrible  as 
possible  to  them,  I  always  replied  that  there  would  be  none  whatever. 

After  Tuvai  was  again  on  board  ship,  old  Pea  paid  him  a  visit,  in 
the  course  of  which  the  former  melted  into  tears,  howled  bitterly,  and 
begged  that  he  might  be  taken  on  shore  to  be  put  to  death,  in  order 
that  his  body  might  be  buried  in  his  native  soil.  It  appeared  from 
information  that  we  received,  that  this  was  a  part  of  a  concerted  plan 
to  obtain  a  farther  commutation  of  his  sentence,  and  that  this  affecting 
interview  was  got  up  in  order  to  excite  our  sympathies.  Finding  it 
did  not  produce  the  desired  effect,  old  Pea  went  about  the  ship  with  a 
doleful  visage,  exclaiming,  "  Eoloisa-ia-tu  Tuvai" — have  compassion 
on  Tuvai. 

I  was  in  hopes  to  find  the  surveys  of  Upolu  nearly,  if  not  quite 


Q2  UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII. 

finished ;  but  the  Flying-Fish,  which  was  to  have  aided  in  performing 
them,  had  not  yet  been  seen  or  heard  from.  This  was  no  small 
disappointment,  as  it  might  compel  me  to  bring  the  Vincennes  into  the 
harbour,  and  thus  incur  a  serious  delay. 

Before  I  had  decided  upon  this  step,  I  learned  that  a  chief  of  the 
name  of  Opotuno,  whose  capture  had  been  considered  so  important 
by  our  government  that  a  ship  of  war  had  been  despatched  for  the 
express  purpose,  had  again  become  troublesome,  and  was  threatening 
vengeance  upon  all  the  whites  who  might  fall  in  his  power.  I  there- 
fore determined  to  make  an  attempt  to  obtain  possession  of  his  person 
by  stratagem.  Lest,  however,  such  an  attempt  should  create  dis- 
turbance in  the  island,  or  be  productive  of  injury  to  the  white  residents, 
I  determined,  before  putting  my  purpose  into  effect,  to  have  an  inter- 
view with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Williams,  the  principal  missionary  in  these 
islands,  both  to  consult  as  to  the  best  mode  of  accomplishing  this 
object,  and  to  learn  what  effect  it  would  be  likely  to  have  on  the 
operations  of  the  missionaries.*  I  accordingly  set  out  for  his  residence 
at  Fasetootai,  about  twenty  miles  to  the  westward  of  Apia,  in  the  hope 
of  seeing  him.  Mr.  Cunningham,  H.  B.  M.  Vice-consul,  was  kind 
enough  to  accompany  me. 

We  left  the  Peacock  at  sunset,  and  reached  Mr.  Williams's  snug 
cottage  about  midnight.  Nothing  could  be  kinder  than  the  welcome 
he  gave  us  ;  and  the  pleasure  he  expressed  at  our  visit  soon  made  us 
feel  at  home.  lie  gave  us  supper,  and  provided  us  with  comfortable 
beds.  Shortly  after  our  arrival,  another  party  was  welcomed,  consist- 
ing of  three  ladies  and  a  gentleman  of  the  mission,  who  were  in  like 
manner  provided  for,  without  apparent  inconvenience. 

Mr.  Williams  seemed  to  me  exactly  what  a  missionary  ought  to  be, 
pious,  cheerful,  and  meek,  although  resolute.  His  whole  thoughts 
seemed  to  be  directed  to  the  welfare  of  those  whom  he  had  undertaken 
to  enlighten.  His  views  were  pointed  not  only  to  the  diffusion  of  the 
gospel,  but  also  to  the  extension  of  the  useful  arts,  and  whatever  could 
tend  to  elevate  the  condition  and  eradicate  the  vices  of  the  natives. 

After  a  long  consultation,  Mr.  Williams  came  to  the  conclusion  that 
there  was  no  reason  for  fearing  that  the  arrest  of  Opotuno  would  be 
the  cause  of  any  injury  to  the  whites  or  missionaries.  He  said  that 
Opotuno  was  a  blood-thirsty  fellow,  and  that  it  would  be  doing  the 
islands  a  great  service  should  he  be  removed ;  that  there  was  not  a 


*  Mr.  Williams  is  the  author  of  the  well-known  Polynesian  Missionary  Researches,  and 
it  will  he  our  melancholy  office  hereafter,  to  speak  of  his  Hilling  a  martyr  in  his  efforts  to 
propagate  the  gospel. 


UPOLU—  M  ANONO  —  S  A  V  A  I  I.  93 

shadow  of  doubt  that  he  had  murdered  twelve  whites,  of  whom  several 
were  Americans ;  that  he  was  a  determined  enemy  to  the  whites,  and 
in  the  habit  of  saying  that  he  would  omit  no  opportunity  of  killing  all 
who  might  come  within  his  power.  Mr.  Williams,  however,  doubted 
the  success  of  any  attempt  to  take  Opotuno,  unless  it  was  made  under 
disguise ;  for  upon  the  approach  of  all  men-of-war,  and  during  their 
stay,  he  lived  in  the  mountains  of  Savaii,  where  it  was  impossible  to 
find  him. 

The  situation  of  Mr.  Williams's  cottage  is  pretty ;  it  stands  within 
a  few  rods  of  the  beach,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  nicely-dressed  lawn, 
on  which  are  several  fine  trees;  the  background  is  filled  up  with 
cocoa-nut,  bread-fruit,  and  a  variety  of  other  trees.  Near  by  is  the 
tiny  ship-yard  of  his  son,  Mr.  John  Williams,  who  was  taken  by  his 
father  to  England,  and  there  taught  all  the  mechanical  trades.  He 
has  returned  thence  within  a  few  months,  with  his  wife,  and  by  the 
aid  of  a  few  natives  has  already  built  himself  a  vessel  of  about  twenty- 
five  tons  burden,  which  he  proposes  to  employ  in  trading  among  these 
islands. 

The  next  day  we  returned  to  Apia.  On  our  way  we  stopped  at 
Sagana  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  Malietoa,  the  principal  chief  of  the 
Malo  or  conquering  party. 

Sagana  is  a  neat  settlement,  and  is  regularly  laid  out ;  it  is  situated 
on  a  small  peninsula,  across  whose  isthmus  a  stone  wall  has  been 
erected,  for  the  purpose  of  protecting  the  plantations  within  it  from 
the  swine.  The  village  contains  about  six  hundred  inhabitants,  and 
there  is  a  school  composed  of  about  fifty  scholars  kept  by  Mr.  Wilson, 
one  of  the  missionary  teachers,  son  of  the  missionary  at  Matavai  Bay. 

No  preparation  had  been  made  to  receive  us,  for  I  came  unan- 
nounced ;  nor,  indeed,  had  it  been  my  intention  to  stop,  but  hearing 
that  this  was  the  residence  of  Malietoa,  and  that  he  was  at  home,  we 
paid  him  a  visit.  He  was  well  advanced  in  age,  and  it  was  generally 
remarked  that  he  bore  a  striking  resemblance  to  General  Jackson. 
The  resemblance  is  not  confined  to  that  of  person  only ;  for  Malietoa 
possesses  also  not  a  little  of  the  same  energy  of  character. 

I  have  rarely  seen  a  place  where  more  attention  is  paid  to  clean- 
liness than  at  Sagana.  A  similar  regard  to  neatness  prevails  in  the 
walks  around  the  village,  and  in  the  cultivation  of  the  taro,  melons, 
and  bananas,  which  is  carried  on  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The 
paths  leading  to  these  cultivated  grounds  pass  through  fine  shady 
groves.  The  preservation  of  the  broad  walks  and  paths  appears  to  be 
rather  an  amusement  than  a  labour  to  the  villagers. 

Here  Malietoa  was  seen  in  his  domestic  circle,  with  his  wives  and 


94  UPOLU  —  MANONO— SAVAII. 

children  around  him.  I  found  him  in  a  small  house,  enjoying  the 
afternoon  breeze,  with  his  daughter  playing  about  him.  She  was 
about  fifteen  years  of  age,  and  decidedly  the  prettiest  girl  we  had  seen 
in  this  group;  her  name  was  Emma,  and  she  was  as  intelligent  as  she 
was  pretty. 

The  chief,  whose  hair  was  white  with  age,  made  us  warmly  wel- 
come, and  wished  to  go  over  to  his  fale-tele  to  receive  us  as  became 
chiefs,  but  this  I  would  not  permit.  His  wives  busied  themselves  in 
getting  things  in  order,  very  much  after  the  fashion  of  other  parts  of 
the  world,  when  a  stranger  arrives  unexpectedly.  In  a  few  minutes 
the  fine  mats  were  laid,  the  stools,  calabashes,  and  straw  put  away. 
A  clean  shirt  was  slipped  over  the  old  man's  head  while  my  attention 
was  called  off  to  another  object. 

Malietoa's  house  was  not  larger  than  the  others  in  the  village,  and 
exhibited  no  other  difference  from  them  than  in  containing  a  dais  or 
platform,  occupying  about  a  third  of  it,  and  raised  about,  a  foot  higher 
than  the  rest  of  the  floor. 

When  the  domestic  arrangements  were  completed,  large  bunches 
of  bananas  and  fresh  cocoa-nuts  were  brought  in  and  presented  to  us. 
Mr.  Wilson  was  an  excellent  interpreter,  and  by  his  aid  I  had  a  long 
and  agreeable  talk  with  the  old  chief,  who,  when  his  wars  were 
touched  upon,  appeared  full  of  fire  and  animation. 

I  intimated  my  desire  to  have  a  conference  with  the  ruling  chiefs,  for 
the  purpose  of  transacting  business,  whereupon  he  readily  assented  to 
call  a  fono,  and  appointed  the  4th  of  November  as  the  earliest  day  on 
which  he  could  possibly  get  the  chiefs,  a  part  of  whom  must  come  from 
Savaii,  together.  This  day  he  named  himself,  after  having  made  a 
reckoning  of  the  six  intervening  days  upon  his  fingers ;  I  observed, 
however,  that  he  found  it  necessary  to  repeat  the  count  several  times. 
Having  transacted  this  business  with  him,  and  regaled  ourselves  on  his 
hospitable  fare,  we  took  our  leave. 

On  reaching  the  Peacock,  I  found  that  none  of  her  surveying  parties 
had  returned,  and  the  Flying-Fish  was  still  missing  ;  I  thus  became 
satisfied  that  I  should  be  detained  here  for  several  days.  I  therefore 
sent  orders  for  the  Vincenncs  to  make  for  the  harbour,  where  she 
anchored  in  the  afternoon,  near  the  Peacock. 

The  next  day,  parties  were  despatched  in  various  directions,  so  as 
to  bring  all  parts  of  the  island  under  examination  at  the  same  time. 

One  of  these  excursions  was  made  across  the  island.  On  arriving  at 
the  highest  point  of  the  ridge,  between  Siuma  and  Siusinga,  which  has 
an  elevation  of  two  thousand  and  fifty  feet,  and  just  before  the  descent 
began,  a  clearing  was  found,  in  which  were  two  mounds  of  earth,  each 


UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAIL  95 

about  fifteen  feet  high,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  circumfe- 
rence ;  several  stone  walls  were  also  seen.  In  respect  to  these,  there  is 
a  tradition  that  they  were  built  by  the  warriors  of  Vavao,  who  invaded 
Upolu,  and  after  their  predatory  warfare  along  the  coast  was  over, 
occupied  this  commanding  position  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  off  the 
communication  between  the  opposite  sides  of  the  island.  The  trees 
growing  on  these  mounds  are  nearly  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  the 
missionaries  have  inferred  from  their  inquiries  that  the  invasion  referred 
to  occurred  seventy  or  eighty  years  ago. 

Messrs.  Dana  and  Couthouy  visited  a  lake  called  Lauto,  which  lies 
to  the  westward  of  this  pass,  and  in  the  centre  of  an  extinct  crater.  The 
edge  of  the  crater  was  found  to  be  two  thousand  five  hundred  and 
seventy  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  descent  thence  to  the  water  of  the 
lake  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  These  gentlemen  succeeded  in 
obtaining  a  line  of  soundings  across  the  lake,  by  cutting  down  trees, 
and  forming  a  raft  of  them.  They  found  the  depth  in  the  middle  nine 
and  a  half  fathoms,  decreasing  thence  gradually  in  all  directions  to  the 
shore.  The  form  of  the  lake  is  nearly  circular,  and  it  has  a  subterra- 
nean outlet.  The  hill  in  which  this  crater  is  situated  is  conical,  and 
there  is  a  low  knoll  at  some  distance  to  the  south  of  it,  which  is  the 
only  other  elevation  in  the  neighbourhood,  above  the  general  height  of 
the  ridge. 

The  border  of  the  crater  is  clothed  with  the  usual  forest  foliage  of 
these  islands,  which,  however,  exhibits  here  more  than  usual  beauty, 
being  decorated  with  the  finely-worked  fronds  of  the  arborescent  ferns, 
in  widely-spread  stars,  and  the  graceful  plumes  of  a  large  mountain 
palm. 

The  poets  of  the  island  have  appreciated  the  beauty  of  the  place,  and 
allude  to  the  perpetual  verdure  which  adorns  the  banks  of  the  lake,  in 
the  following  line : 

"  Lauuto'o  e  le  toi  a  e  lau  mea." 

"  Lauto,  untouched  by  withered  leaf." 

There  is  a  legend  connected  with  this  lake,  that  has  more  of  poetic 
beauty  and  feeling  than  one  would  have  supposed  to  exist  among  so 
rude  a  people.  It  is  as  follows. 

Many  generations  since,  during  a  war  between  Upolu  and  Savaii,  a 
number  of  war-canoes  from  the  latter  island  crossed  over  to  attack 
Ulatamoa  (or,  as  it  is  now  called,  Ulumoenga),  the  principal  town  in 
the  district  of  Aana.  At  the  time  of  their  approach,  two  brothers, 
To'o  and  Ata,  chanced  to  be  paddling  their  canoes  in  the  channel 
between  the  reef  and  the  shore,  and  before  they  could  reach  the  land 


96  UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII. 

were  attacked  by  a  party  of  Savaiians.  After  a  valiant  defence,  Ata  was 
overpowered  arid  slain,  while  To'o  narrowly  escaped  the  same  fate. 

Overwhelmed  with  sorrow  at  the  loss  of  a  brother  who  in  he  tenderly 
loved,  To'o  retired  to  a  neighbouring  mountain,  and  burying  himself  in 
the  darkest  recesses  of  its  forests,  made  them  resound  with  his  bitter 
lamentations.  At  length  in  his  wanderings  he  came  to  the  summit, 

O  •— ' 

where,  stooping  down,  he  scooped  out  with  his  hands  a  vast  hollow, 
and,  leaning  over  its  brink,  suffered  his  tears  to  fall  in  until  it  was 
filled.  The  lake  thus  formed  has  ever  since  borne  the  appellation  of 
Lauu-to'o. 

The  regard  of  To'o  for  his  brother's  memory  was  further  evinced  by 
his  adoption  of  Ata's  name,  conjoined  to  his  own  as  his  family  title,  and 
the  appellation  of  Toomata,  a  contraction  of  To'o-ma-ata,  is  retained 
by  his  descendants,  who  are  still  chiefs  of  note  in  Upolu,  and  from  whom 
the  tradition  was  derived. 

The  lake  of  Lauto  is  regarded  with  superstitious  dread  by  the 
natives,  who  believe  it  to  be  the  abode  of  the  spirits,  who,  in  former 
times,  were  regarded  with  great  veneration,  and  worshipped.  These 
were  supposed  to  inhabit  the  waters  of  the  lake,  in  the  shape  of  eels, 
as  thick  as  a  cocoa-nut  tree,  and  two  fa'.ioms  long.  The  attempt  of 
our  gentlemen  to  explore  it  was  looked  upon  as  such  a  profanation  that 
their  native  guides  left  them,  and  regarded  them  as  persons  doomed  to 
accident  if  not  to  destruction.  The  eels  were  represented  as  so  savage 
and  fierce  that  they  would  bite  a  person's  leg  off.  No  eels,  however, 
nor  any  other  fish,  were  seen  in  the  lake. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  crater  no  rock  was  observed  in  place, 
nor  any  light  scoria.  Only  a  few  fragments  of  stone  were  scattered 
about. 

The  cone  of  the  crater  of  Lauto,  is  flatter  than  the  others  of  the 
same  character  that  were  visited,  and  particularly  than  that  of  Mount 
Tofua.  This  is  the  westernmost  of  them  all,  and  lies  behind  Fase- 
tootai.  It  rises  so  boldly,  that  it  is  seen  distinctly  from  the  sea.  This, 
with  all  the  other  craters,  are  situated  upon  the  central  ridge,  and  the 
most  conspicuous  of  those  which  remain,  arc  Siusinga,  which  lies 
behind  Sagana  and  Faliata.  There  is  also  one  upon  Mount  Malata, 
in  the  rear  of  Fangaloa,  and  another  on  the  southern  side  of  the  island, 
near  Salomana. 

The  part  of  the  ridge  on  which  Tofua  is  shunted,  is  much  lower 
than  the  cone  itself,  and  has  gradually  declined  from  its  eastern  end. 
The  ascent  from  Fasetootai  has,  for  the  first  three  or  four  miles,  an 
almost  imperceptible  rise ;  after  this,  the  slope  increases  rapidly  until 
it  becomes  quite  abrupt.  Even  in  the  steepest  parts,  however,  the  rock 


U  P  O  L  U  —  M  A  X  O  N  O  —  S  A  V  A  I  I.  97 

was  rarely  visible,  but  is  covered  with  a  deep  and  fertile  soil,  arising 
from  its  decomposition,  and  mixed  with  vegetable  mould.  The  whole 
declivity,  from  the  very  summit  of  the  peak  to  the  shore  of  the  sea,  is, 
like  other  parts  of  the  island,  clothed  with  a  dense  forest,  which  shuts 
out  all  view  of  the  ocean,  except  from  the  top  of  the  mountain.  The 
ridge  whence  the  cone  rises  was  found  to  be  one  thousand  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  angle  of  ascent  thence 
upwards,  was  from  40°  to  50°.  The  top  of  the  peak,  which  forms  the 
edge  of  the  crater,  is  not  more  than  fifteen  feet  wide  in  any  place,  and 
sometimes  not  more  than  half  as  much.  It  is  of  uniform  height,  and 
has  a  circular  form ;  the  cavity  within  it  was  estimated  as  having  a 
circumference  of  about  two  and  a  quarter  miles,  and  occupies  the 
whole  summit.  The  depth  of  the  crater  was  found  to  be  three  hundred 
and  sixty  feet,  and  the  whole  of  its  interior  is  filled  with  lofty  trees. 
The  slope  of  the  inner  declivity  was  60°.  At  the  foot  of  this  is  an 
uneven  plane,  covered  with  earth  and  loose  cinders  or  scoria.  Upon 
this  grow  forest  trees,  many  of  which  were  more  than  one  hundred 
feet  in  height,  beneath  which  is  a  dense  growth  of  shrubbery. 

It  was  remarked,  that  although  it  had  rained  constantly  for  several 
days  before  this  crater  was  visited,  no  water  was  found  within  it. 
This  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  many  of  the  brooks  and  streams 
on  the  island  are  subterranean  throughout  their  whole  course,  while 
others  are  partly  so.  The  former  gush  up  near  the  sea-shore  in  large 
springs  or  fountains,  forming  natural,  or  feeding  artificial  pools,  in 
which  the  natives  bathe.  According  to  our  observations,  such  pools 
are  so  numerous  on  the  western  shore  of  the  island,  as  to  occur  on  the 
average,  at  intervals  of  a  mile. 

The  rocks  of  this  island  are  of  the  volcanic  character  that  might  be 
expected  from  the  existence  of  so  many  craters.  They  are  principally 
composed  of  a  variety  of  basaltic  lava,  in  which  are  found  augite, 
felspar,  albite,  and  chrysolite.  Extensive  currents  of  lava  are  seen,  and 
are  particularly  abundant  on  the  southern  side  of  the  island. 

It  appears  as  if  these  had  flowed  down  towards  the  sea-shore  in 
various  directions,  and  that  after  their  outer  surface  had  cooled,  the 
portion  that  remained  liquid  within  had  run  out,  and  left  a  sort  of 
tunnel.  Such  tunnels  are  numerous,  and  form  the  subterranean  courses 
of  the  streams.  Some  of  these  natural  tunnels  are  remarkable :  among 
them,  one  visited  near  Sanga  will  serve  as  the  type  of  all.  It  was 
found  to  be  a  cavern  nine  hundred  and  fifty-eight  feet  in  length, 
extending  in  a  southeast  direction,  and  to  have  an  average  width  of 
about  fifteen  feet;  its  roof  was  about  eight  feet  in  height.  At  the 
termination  of  this  cave,  there  was  a  pool  of  water  five  feet  in  depth, 

VOL.  n.  13 


98  UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII. 

the  temperature  of  which  was  observed  to  be  72°,  while  that  of  the  air 
within  the  cavern  was  7G-G°,  and  that  of  the  open  air  was  77-4°. 
These  streams  of  lava  are  much  more  frequently  seen  on  the  southern 
than  on  the  northern  side  of  the  island ;  they  are  also  larger  on  the 
former  of  these  sides,  where  they  were  in  some  places  four  miles  in 
width. 

The  path  from  Vivimanga  to  Sanga  is  called  the  Stone  Road, 
formed  in  part  of  blocks  of  lava.  There  are  also  in  this  neighbour- 
hood many  caves  in  the  streams  of  lava.  The  cave  at  Sanga  is  the 
largest  of  these,  and  to  describe  it  will  convey  an  idea  of  those  of 
smaller  dimensions. 

The  cave  at  Sanga  was  dedicated  to  the  god  "  Moso,"  who  was 
supposed  to  reside  in  it.  The  entrance  was  found  to  be  closed  by  an 
artificial  wall  built  across  it,  about  three  feet  thick  ;  it  is  four  feet 
high,  and  six  feet  wide.  The  sides,  roof,  and  floor  of  this  cavern  are 
comparatively  smooth,  and  are  covered  with  stalagmites  of  a  light 
yellowish  colour,  which  are  not  calcareous. 

It  had  been  reported  that  this  cave  was  frequented  by  a  peculiar 
kind  of  swallow,  which  never  ventured  into  the  light  of  day.  Mr. 
Peale,  who  was  one  of  the  party  that  visited  it,  found  swallows  in 
abundance,  which  made  a  bat-like  noise,  or  rather  one  having  a  resem- 
blance to  the  rattling  of  pebbles.  So  far,  however,  from  their  being 
a  peculiar  species,  as  they  had  been  represented,  they  were  the  com- 
mon species  of  the  islands,  and  instead  of  shunning  the  light  of  day, 
they  were  continually  passing  in  and  out  of  the  cavern,  which  was 
merely  a  place  selected  by  them  for  breeding.  On  the  ledges  of  the 
sides  and  roof  their  nests  were  found,  composed  of  pieces  of  moss  glued 
together.  The  eggs  were  white,  and  of  a  large  size  in  proportion  to 
the  bird,  and  no  more  than  one  was  found  in  each  nest. 

In  traversing  the  island  of  Upolu,  many  deep  gorges  were  seen,  in 
which  there  were  waterfalls.  One  of  these  cascades  was  measured, 
and  found  to  be  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  so  that  the 
whole  of  the  water  was  dissipated  in  spray  before  it  reached  the 
bottom.  These  glens  are  wild  in  the  extreme,  and  beautiful,  from  the 
great  variety  and  peculiar  character  of  the  foliage  with  which  thev 
are  clothed. 

The  south  side  of  Upolu,  like  that  of  Tahiti,  is  much  more  luxuriant 
than  the  northern,  which  is  owing  to  a  like  cause,  namely,  that,  it 
receives  more  moisture  from  the  prevailing  winds. 

The  wild  orange  grows  every  where  in  great  abundance,  and  in 
some  places  the  road  was  literally  strewed  with  the  fruit,  which  here 
equals  the  cultivated  variety  in  size. 


UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  S  A  V  A  I  I.  99 

In  the  different  jaunts  across  the  island,  many  of  the  "  Devil's"  or 
unconverted  towns  were  visited,  where  our  parties  were  always 
treated  with  great  hospitality.  At  the  town  of  Siusinga  the  chief  who 
entertained  our  party  was  a  priest  of  the  Gimbkt  religion.  This  new 
faith  has  made  some  progress  among  these  islands,  and  has  the  follow- 
ing singular  origin  : 

A  native  of  Savaii,  by  name  Seeovedi,  was  taken  from  that  island 
by  a  whale-ship,  and  did  not  return  for  several  years.  During  his 
absence  he  visited  several  ports,  where  it  would  seem  he  obtained  some 
notions  of  the  forms  and  ceremonies  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church. 
Possessed  of  considerable  natural  shrewdness,  he  founded  on  this 
knowledge  a  plan  to  save  himself  from  labour  for  the  future,  by  col- 
lecting followers  at  whose  expense  he  might  be  maintained.  During 
his  absence,  and  while  on  board  the  whale-ship,  he  had  received,  as  is 
usual  in  such  cases,  instead  of  his  native  name,  that  of  Joe  Gimblet; 
and  this  cognomen  is  now  firmly  attached  to  the  sect  of  which  he  was 
the  founder. 

Having  formed  the  plan  of  founding  a  sect,  he  did  not  scruple  as  to 
the  means  of  carrying  it  into  effect ;  for  he  boldly  claimed  a  heavenly 
mission,  professing  to  hold  converse  with  God,  and  asserting  that  he 
possessed  the  power  of  working  miracles,  raising  the  dead,  &c.  He 
soon  gained  many  proselytes,  and  had  attained  great  consideration 
and  authority,  when  unfortunately  for  him  he  was  called  upon  to  exert 
his  pretended  power  of  raising  the  dead,  by  restoring  to  life  the 
favourite  son  of  a  powerful  chief  called  Lelomiava,  who  had  been 
murdered. 

Joe  did  not  hesitate  to  undertake  the  accomplishment  of  this  miracle. 
He  in  the  first  place  directed  a  house  to  be  built  for  the  reception  of 
the  body,  and  when  it  was  finished  he  required  that  it  should  be  sup- 
plied with  the  best  provisions.  In  conformity  with  this  requisition,  the 
choicest  articles  of  food  that  could  be  obtained  were  regularly  handed 
to  Joe  for  the  use  of  the  defunct,  upon  whom  he  alone  waited,  while 
every  other  person  except  the  chief  and  himself  was  excluded  from  the 
building. 

The  food  thus  regularly  supplied  as  regularly  disappeared,  and  Joe 
assured 'ihe  chief  that  his  son  had  eaten  it,  and  under  this  bountiful 
allowance  would  soon  recover  his  strength,  and  walk  forth.  In  this 
way  time  wore  on,  until  the  patience  of  the  old  chief  began  to  show 
symptoms  of  being  exhausted.  This  somewhat  alarmed  Joe,  but  as  he 
was  a  fellow  of  infinite  resources,  he  contrived  to  evade  inquiry  and 
procrastinate,  hoping,  no  doubt,  that  some  lucky  incident  might  turn 
up,  by  which  he  should  be  enabled  to  extricate  himself  from  the 


100  UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVA1I. 

dilemma.  Unfortunately  for  him,  however,  after  another  month  of 
anxious  suspense,  the  old  man's  pigs  and  taro  fell  short,  notwithstand- 
ing the  chief's  dependants  had  for  a  long  time  been  restricted  from 
using  them.  All  of  them  were  in  fact  much  reduced  by  their  com- 
pulsory fast,  with  the  exception  of  Joe,  whose  rotundity  of  form  seemed 
to  indicate  that  he  at  least  ran  no  risk  of  starvation.  Whether  it  were 
owing  to  the  suspicions  which  his  jolly  appearance  excited,  or  that 
he  began  to  entertain  doubts  of  Joe's  supernatural  powers,  is  not 
known  ;  but  one  day  old  Lclomiava  determined  to  satisfy  himself  of  the 
progress  making  in  the  restoration  of  his  son.  With  this  design  he 
entered  the  house,  and  was  shocked  with  the  sight  of  his  son's  body  in 
a  stale  of  loathsome  putridity.  He  immediately  summoned  Joe,  and 
informed  him  that  it  was  time  that  the  promised  miracle  should  be 
accomplished,  adding,  that  it  must  be  done  by  the  morrow's  dawn. 
Joe  immediately  redoubled  his  exertions,  and  prayed  hastily  to  all  the 
saints  of  his  calendar.  He,  however,  knew  full  well  what  would  be 
his  fate  if  he  remained  to  encounter  on  the  morrow  the  anger  of  the 
savage  chief.  He  therefore  effected  his  escape  during  the  night,  and 
made  his  way  to  his  native  island.  There  he  remained  for  some 
time  incog.,  but  now  ventures  to  appear  openly,  practising  his  impo- 
sitions boldly,  and  is  the  worst  antagonist  the  missionaries  have  to  deal 
with. 

This  story  was  related  by  the  old  chief  himself,  who,  instead  of  find- 
ing his  son  restored  to  life,  was  compelled  to  bury  his  body,  which  he 
did,  with  the  exception  of  the  head.  This  he  put  in  a  box,  and  sus- 
pended beneath  the  peak  of  the  roof  of  his  house,  where  it  remains,  a 
witness  of  his  credulity  and  of  the  gross  imposition  that  was  practised 
upon  him. 

While  the  party  remained  at  Siusinga,  a  sick  native  was  brought 
from  the  coast  to  a  neighbouring  house,  and  their  host,  the  Gimblet 
priest,  was  called  upon  to  pray  for  him.  This  afforded  them  an  oppor- 
tunity that  might  not  otherwise  have  occurred,  of  learning  some  facts 
in  relation  to  the  ceremonies  of  this  sect. 

On  this  occasion,  the  priest  approached  the  house  where  the  sick  man 
lay,  and  when  upon  the  stone  platform  in  front  of  it,  he  drew  forth  a 
book  from  the  folds  of  tapa  in  which  it  had  been  carefully  enveloped. 
He  then  called  upon  Jehovah,  returning  thanks  for  the  many  blessings 
which  had  been  conferred  on  his  people,  and  asked  for  a  continuance 
of  the  same,  invoking  the  name  of  Jesus.  He  ended  by  inquiring  the 
Divine  pleasure  concerning  the  sick  man,  and  begging  mercy  for  him. 

The  nature  of  the  book  could  not  be  distinctly  seen,  as  it  was  again 
carefully  enclosed  in  the  tapa  as  soon  as  the  ceremony  was  over;  but 


UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII.  101 

so  far  as  it  was  visible,  it  bore  an  unquestionable  resemblance  to  a 
blank  note-book ! 

The  proselytes  of  this  sect,  in  case  of  sickness,  confess  their  sins  to 
one  another,  and  have  a  number  of  fast-days,  which  are  rigidly  kept. 
Their  Sabbath  occurs  only  once  a  month,  and  is  celebrated  by  the 
firing  of  guns  and  the  puerile  mummery  in  which  their  worship  con- 
sists. 

In  pursuance  of  the  resolution  I  had  adopted,  Captain  Hudson  set  out 
on  the  30th  of  October,  with  the  boats  of  his  ship,  for  the  purpose  of 
attempting  the  capture  of  Opotuno.  This  noted  chief  of  the  neigh- 
bouring island  of  Savaii,  had,  as  has  been  stated,  committed  several 
murders  and  other  outrages.  Among  other  acts,  he  had  taken  posses- 
sion of  two  boats,  sent  on  shore  by  the  whale-ship  William  Penn, 
Captain  Swain,  of  Nantucket,  killing  the  chief  mate,  and  the  two  boat- 
steerers.  The  third  officer  of  the  vessel  was  also  wounded,  and  left  for 
dead  upon  the  beach ;  he  was,  however,  picked  up  by  some  females, 
who  removed  him  to  a  hut,  where,  through  their  kind  attentions,  he 
recovered.  He  did  not,  however,  rejoin  his  ship,  but  remained  for  some 
time  on  the  island. 

The  most  surprising  part  of  the  history  of  this  transaction  is,  that 
Captain  Toby,  of  the  ship  Swift,  of  New  Bedford,  afterwards  purchased 
these  boats  from  Opotuno,  although  he  knew  that  chief  had  obtained 
them  by  murdering  this  captain's  own  countrymen. 

Captain  Hudson  fell  in  with  the  Flying-Fish,  on  his  way  to  Savaii, 
and  took  her  with  him,  to  aid  in  carrying  on  the  stratagem  by  which 
the  watchfulness  and  suspicions  of  the  wary  chief  were  to  be  lulled  to 
rest. 

On  their  arrival  off  the  part  of  the  island  where  Opotuno  usually 
resides,  they  made  for  the  shore  under  pretence  of  surveying,  and 
reached  the  village  of  Setipetea,  which  adjoins  that  where  he  dwells. 
We  afterwards  learned  that  no  sooner  had  the  boats  got  within  the 
reef,  than  he  prepared  for  his  flight  to  the  mountains.  The  news  of 
the  capture  of  Tuvai,  and  the  reappearance  of  boats  from  a  vessel  (the 
Peacock)  which  had  passed  about  ten  days  before,  served  to  put  him 
on  the  alert.  He  had,  however,  become  so  daring  that  he  did  not  at 
once  fly,  but  awaited  more  decided  indications  of  hostility ;  and  when 
Captain  Hudson,  accompanied  by  only  two  men,  passed  through  his 
village,  having  left  his  boats  only  a  mile  distant,  he  entertained  the 
intention  of  shooting  him.  He  had  actually  cocked  his  gun  for  this 
purpose,  when  one  of  his  followers  advised  him  not  to  fire,  as  he  would 
bring  great  trouble  on  the  island  if  he  shot  a  chief.  When  the  boats' 
crews  afterwards  entered  Opotuno's  village,  the  inhabitants  showed 


102  UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII. 

much  alarm,  but  the  chief  was  missing.  It  was  therefore  considered 
advisable  to  make  no  hostile  demonstrations;  as  no  good  purpose  could 
have  been  effected  by  following  him  to  the  mountains,  where  it  would 
have  been  impossible  to  apprehend  him. 

The  boats  therefore  returned,  and  although  without  succeeding  in 
the  main  object  of  the  expedition,  something  was  gained  in  reviving 
his  apprehensions  of  being  captured.  His  village  was  not  destroyed, 
because  to  do  so  would  have  been  no  injury  to  him,  but  only  distress- 
ing to  its  poor  inhabitants.  lie  would  have  laughed  at  the  idea  of 
his  being  punished  by  the  burning  of  their  habitations,  as  it  is  said 
he  did  so  when  an  attempt  was  made,  during  a  previous  cruise  of  the 
Vincennes,  by  her  commander,  who  visited  his  village,  and  burned 
two  or  three  of  his  houses. 

The  impunity  he  has  hitherto  enjoyed  has  served  to  render  him 
audacious,  and  it  is  not  long  since  he  put  to  death  an  American  sea- 
man, who  had  been  left  sick  in  his  charge. 

Opotuno  is  detested  by  his  brother  chiefs,  not  only  for  his  aggres- 
sions upon  foreigners,  but  on  his  countrymen  also.  Only  a  short  time 
before  our  arrival,  he  seduced  and  carried  off  the  wife  of  Vavasa. 
This  act  was  considered  so  outrageous,  and  was  so  deeply  resented, 
that  we  were  informed  a  war  was  only  prevented  by  the  near  relation- 
ship of  these  two  chiefs.  The  Samoans  regard  with  horror  the  idea  of 
those  connected  by  ties  of  consanguinity,  fighting  against  each  other. 

Opotuno  is  not  only  related  to  Vavasa,  but  is  the  adopted  son  of  old 
Pea  of  Manono,  a  connexion  which  was  not  without  its  effect  in 
averting  hostilities. 

On  the  4th  of  November,  a  fono  was  held,  according  to  the  appoint- 
ment made  \vith  Malietoa,  in  the  fale-tele  of  Apia.  All  the  officers 
who  could  be  spared  from  the  ships  were  ordered  to  attend.  Old  Pea, 
the  chief  of  Apia,  seemed  to  be  the  master  of  ceremonies  on  the 
occasion.  Clean  mats  were  spread  for  the  chiefs,  and  chairs  and 
benches  borrowed  from  the  missionaries'  houses  were  placed  for  us, 
opposite  to  them.  All  the  highest  chiefs  of  the  "  Malo"  party  were 
present,  except  Pea  of  Manono,  and  two  minor  chiefs  of  Savaii. 
Malietoa  presided.  His  whole  demeanour  was  dignified,  composed, 
and  thoughtful.  His  personal  appearance  has  already  been  spoken  of, 
and  the  form  of  his  head,  his  white  hair,  and  dignified  bearing,  again 
reminded  us  of  General  Jackson.  He  is  slender  and  tall,  although 
somewhat  bent  by  age.  It  was  to  be  regretted  that  his  dress  was  ill 
chosen,  and  rather  detracted  from  the  respect  he  would  have  inspired 
had  he  appeared  in  his  native  garb;  he  wore  pantaloons,  a  round 
jacket,  and  a  pink  and  white  striped  cotton  shirt. 


UPOLU  — MANONO  — SAVAII.  103 

Tooa,  the  nephew  of  Malietoa,  who  acted  as  spokesman,  and  whose 
countenance  betokened  the  interest  he  felt  in  the  business,  attracted 
attention  in  the  second  degree.  Then  came  Mole,  the  son  of  Malietoa, 
Maletau,  their  general,  the  most  renowned  leader  in  the  war  of  Aana, 
and  Tai-ma-le-lagi,  Malietoa's  brother.  There  were  also  present  a 
number  of  chiefs  of  less  distinction,  among  whom  was  old  Pea  of 
Apia ;  although  he  was  compelled  to  take  his  place,  yet  he  did  not 
fail  to  be  conspicuous,  not  merely  by  his  personal  appearance,  but  by 
his  officiousness. 

The  proceedings  were  conducted  with  great  ceremony,  but  there 
was  a  marked  difference  between  this  fono,  and  the  solemnity  of  our 
Indian  councils.  The  Sarnoan  assembly  appeared  more  quiescent, 
the  proceedings  exhibited  more  refinement,  and  the  customs  partook 
of  an  Asiatic  character. 

In  all  such  meetings,  a  rigid  order  of  precedence,  that  seems  well 
understood  by  every  one,  is  established ;  all  conversation  is  carried  on 
in  a  whisper ;  no  one  is  seen  standing  in  the  presence  of  a  superior, 
and  sitting  with  outstretched  legs  is  considered  indecorous.  Articles 
were  never  passed  over  a  person,  and  no  native  ever  ventured  to  come 
in  contact  with  a  chief. 

The  background  on  the  side  of  the  natives  was  filled  up  with 
inhabitants  from  different  parts  of  the  island. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  building,  the  officers  of  the  squadron  and 
the  missionaries  formed  a  numerous  group.  Among  the  latter  was 
our  friend  Mr.  Williams  and  his  son,  whom  I  had  appointed  to  act  as 
consul  until  the  pleasure  of  the  government  of  the  United  States  was 
known,  and  whom  it  was  intended  to  present  in  this  capacity  to  the 
meeting,  in  order  that  he  might  be  recognised  formally  by  the  chiefs, 
Messrs.  Heath,  Mills,  and  Wilson  were  also  present ;  and  Mr.  Heath, 
who  wras  believed  to  be  best  acquainted  with  the  Samoan  language, 
was  kind  enough  to  officiate  as  our  interpreter. 

The  object  I  had  in  view,  in  requesting  the  fono  to  be  called,  was 
to  procure  the  formal  enactment  of  laws  and  regulations  which  might 
secure  to  our  whale-ships  a  certainty  of  protection  and  security,  and 
at  the  same  time  to  prevent  impositions  being  practised  by  them  upon 
the  native  government,  of  which,  as  has  been  stated,  complaint  had 
been  made.  To  the  breach  of  these  laws,  it  was  intended  that  the 
penalty  of  a  fine  should  be  attached,  in  order  to  secure  obedience  to 
them. 

The  meeting  being  organized,  I  in  the  first  place  presented  Mr.  John 
Williams,  as  the  consul  of  the  United  States,  whom  the  chiefs  recog- 
nised as  such  with  great  willingness  and  satisfaction. 


104  UPOLU  — MANONO  — SAVAII. 

We  then  entered  upon  the  discussion  of  the  proposed  regulations, 
which  were  adopted  in  a  form  which  promises  to  be  mutually  bene- 
ficial, being  highly  advantageous  to  them,  and  at  the  same  time  insuring 
a  certainty  of  security  to  American  vessels  that  may  visit  the  islands 
they  could  not  before  enjoy.* 

One  of  the  articles  referred  to  the  redress  of  injuries  committed  by 
the  natives,  and  provided  for  the  punishment  of  those  who  had  been 
guilty  of  crime,  by  giving  them  up. 

Wishing  to  rid  these  islands  of  a  pest  both  to  natives  and  foreigners, 
I  now,  as  authorized  by  the  spirit  of  this  article,  made  a  demand  for 
the  murderer,  Opotuno,  and  stated  that  a  compliance  with  this  would 
settle  all  disputes  between  us.  This  demand  produced  a  great  sensa- 
tion among  the  chiefs,  and  much  excitement  prevailed  in  the  meeting. 
Malietoa,  in  reply  to  it,  expressed  himself  strongly  in  detestation  of  the 
character  of  Opotuno,  and  stated  that  his  capture  by  us  would  give  him 
satisfaction,  but  argued  that  the  regulations  now  enacted  could  not 
apply  to  his  past  misdeeds,  and  that  he  would  only  come  within  its 
operation  should  he  be  again  guilty  of  like  crimes.  He  in  short  pleaded 
that  the  law  could  have  no  ex  post  facto  bearing. 

He  next  argued,  that  the  inevitable  consequence  of  any  attempt  on 
their  part  to  seize  Opotuno,  would  be  to  involve  the  whole  group  in  a 
civil  war,  for  he  was  not  only  a  powerful  chief  himself,  but  connected 
with  others  still  more  so ;  and  that  a  civil  war  was  that  which  he  most 
desired  to  avoid.  He  however  went  on  to  say,  that  so  far  as  he  was 
concerned,  no  opposition  would  be  made  to  any  steps  on  our  part  to 
secure  one  whom  they  knew  to  be  guilty  of  great  outrages  ;  but  he 
could  not  in  any  way  assist. 

In  conclusion,  he  stated  that  the  islands  had,  until  within  the  few 
years  that  had  elapsed  since  he  obtained  the  command,  been  the  seat 
of  continual  wars ;  that  they  were  now  aware  of  the  advantages  of 
peace,  and  had  a  just  sense  of  the  benefits  they  in  consequence  enjoyed  ; 
and  declared  that  he  should  do  all  in  his  power  to  preserve  the  blessings 
of  peace,  and  maintain  the  unwonted  state  of  prosperity.  For  these 
blessings  he  ascribed  high  acknowledgments  to  the  missionaries,  saying 
that  he  hoped  the  Samoan  people  would  in  due  time  profit  by  the 
lessons  taught  them,  and  adopt  all  the  improvements  of  the  Papalangis. 

Few  persons  have  ever  inspired  me  with  more  respect  than  this  old 
chief,  and  his  sentiments  were  delivered  by  Tooa  in  an  impressive 
manner. 

It  was  not  my  object  to  drive  them  to  extremities,  or  to  press  for  an 

*  A  copy  of  these  regulations  will  be  found  in  Appendix  IX. 


UFOLU       M  A  NO  NO  —  S  A  V  A  I  I.  105 

instant  decision.  I  also  wished  to  give  them  time  to  reflect  upon  and 
canvass  the  regulations  just  adopted,  and  perceived  that  they  began  to 
be  fatigued  with  the  length  of  the  conference.  I  therefore  proposed  that 
before  they  gave  me  a  final  answer  in  relation  to  Opotuno,  they  should 
take  time  for  consideration  and  reflection,  for  which  purpose  I  suggested 
that  the  meeting  should  be  adjourned  until  the  next  day,  which  was 
accordingly  done. 

On  the  5th  November  we  again  met,  when  the  arguments  urged  the 
day  before  were  a  second  time  brought  forward,  and  the  necessity  of 
their  taking  measures  that  should  effectually  prevent  outrages  upon  the 
persons  and  depredations  on  the  property  of  white  men,  strongly  set 
before  them.  They  met  these  arguments  with  complaints  against  the 
white  men  who  had  come  to  the  islands  or  been  left  upon  them,  saying 
that  many  of  them  were  bad  fellows,  and  had  caused  much  trouble.  I 
at  once  told  them  that  if  they  would  bring  these  turbulent  persons  to 
me,  I  would  take  them  away  from  the  islands,  and  that  the  laws  they 
had  now  assented  to,  were  such  as  would  secure  their  punishment  for 
any  future  offences. 

In  this  state  of  the  proceedings  we  were  favoured  with  a  set  speech 
from  the  official  orator  of  Malietoa,  an  old  blind  chief,  who  stood  up, 
supporting  himself  by  leaning  with  both  hands  upon  a  long  stick.  In 
this  attitude  he  poured  forth  such  a  torrent  of  words  as  few  of  us  had 
ever  before  heard  ;  and  if  eloquence  be  composed  of  elocution  and  a 
ready  flow  of  language,  he  was  fully  entitled  to  the  praise  of  possess- 
ing it. 

As  we  learned  from  the  translation  of  this  speech,  its  object  was  to 
urge  the  necessity  of  going  to  war,  in  order  to  secure  the  murderer, 
Opotuno,  for  the  purpose  of  delivering  him  up.  This,  however,  was 
intended  only  for  effect ;  for  these,  as  we  well  knew,  were  not  the  real 
sentiments  entertained  by  Malietoa. 

This  speech  was  made  up  of  short  and  distinct  sentences,  was 
spoken  in  a.  loud  voice,  and  contained  many  repetitions. 

However  contrary  this  speech  may  have  been  to  the  cool  determi- 
nation of  Malietoa,  it  seemed  to  meet  the  popular  feeling;  and  there  is 
no  saying  what  might  have  been  the  consequence,  had  not  the  mission- 
aries contrived  to  check  the  outburst.  It  was  now  proposed  that  the 
fono  should  receive  and  publish  a  document,  offering  a  large  reward 
for  the  seizure  and  delivery  of  Opotuno,  dead  or  alive.  This  proposition 
was  a  new  source  of  excitement,  and  old  Malietoa  exclaimed  with 
emphasis,  "  Give  me  the  paper  ! — I  will  put  it  upon  my  house ;  where 
all  the  world  shall  see  it." 

VOL.  II.  14 


106  UPOLU  — MANONO  — SAVAII. 

A  copy  was  then  nailed  on  the  pillars  of  the  council-house,  which 
Pea  was  made  responsible  for,  and  others  were  prepared  and  distri- 
buted to  the  several  chiefs. 

The  meeting  was  then  dissolved,  and  every  one  present  evinced  the 
greatest  satisfaction  that  the  whole  of  the  business  before  it  had  been 
concluded  in  so  satisfactory  a  manner. 

The  island  of  Upolu  is  divided  into  three  districts,  viz.,  Atua,  Tua- 
Masanga,  and  Aana.  Each  of  these  was  formerly  governed  by  a 
separate  and  independent  chief,  styled  Tui.  Atua  occupies  the  eastern 
end  of  the  island,  which  extends  as  far  as  the  town  of  Lauli ;  Tua- 
Masanga  is  the  middle  division,  and  includes  the  towns  of  Siuma  and 
Safata,  on  the  southern  shore;  Aana  lies  wrest  of  this,  and  comprises 
the  remainder  of  the  island.  The  first  of  these  districts  is  of  the 
greatest  extent,  the  second  is  at  present  the  most  powerful,  and  the 
third  is  the  most  fertile.  The  union  of  these  districts  under  one 
general  government,  in  which  the  island  of  Savaii  is  also  included,  is 
a  late  event.  Previous  to  1830,  this  island  had  suffered  from  the 
usurpation  of  a  chief  of  Manono,  called  Tamafago,  who  was  a  great 
tyrant,  but  who  had  contrived  to  cause  his  person  to  be  considered  as 
sacred,  and  to  impress  on  his  countrymen  the  idea  that  it  would  be 
sacrilege  to  disobey,  hurt,  or  even  to  touch  him.  After  the  conquest 
of  a  rival  district  in  Savaii,  he  assumed  the  style  of  king  of  that  island, 
"  O  le  Tupu  o  Savaii,"  a  title  which  Malietoa  now  enjoys,  but  without 
deriving  from  it  any  power. 

Tamafago  not  only  ruled  at  Savaii  with  royal  and  divine  attributes, 
but  obtained  a  complete  ascendency  over  Upolu,  where  he  compelled 
all  to  give  up  their  property  to  him,  and  to  yield  the  women  of  all 
classes  to  his  desires. 

Finally,  his  tyranny  and  excesses  exceeded  the  bounds  of  patience, 
and  the  people  of  Aana  rose  against  him,  conquered,  and  put  him  to 
death.  From  this  arose  the  war  of  Aana,  which  will  be  again  spoken 
of;  for  the  chiefs  of  the  other  islands  considered  themselves  bound  to 
avenge  the  death  of  Tamafago.  The  people  of  the  other  districts  of 
Upolu  were  not  united  in  the  support  of  their  neighbours  of  Aana,  who 
had  made  themselves  almost  universally  odious  by  their  haughty 
bearing.  The  war  was  a  bloody  one,  and  resulted,  after  a  continuance 
of  two  or  three  years,  in  the  entire  defeat  of  the  people  of  Aana,  by 
those  of  Manono,  who  expelled  them  from  their  district,  and  forbade 
their  return  to  it  on  pain  of  death. 

This  fertile  region  remained  entirely  unoccupied  until  the  arrival  of 
the  missionaries ;  but  when  the  Christian  influences  of  their  preaching 


UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII. 


107 


began  to  be  felt,  the  decree  that  condemned  Aana  to  solitude  was 
annulled,  and  the  few  of  its  former  inhabitants  who  had  escaped 
slaughter,  were  permitted  to  return  to  their  ancient  homes. 

The  island  of  Manono,  whose  inhabitants  exerted  such  an  influence 
in  the  closing  scenes  in  the  war  of  Aana,  is  situated  within  the  sea-reef 
of  Upolu.  It  contains  eleven  hundred  inhabitants,  and  is  the  residence 
of  the  chief  Pea,  who  must  be  distinguished  from  the  inferior  personage 
of  the  same  name  who  resides  at  Apia.  This  island  is  covered  with 
forests  throughout  its  whole  extent;  its  circumference  is  about  four 
miles;  and  it  is  the  station  of  one  of  the  English  missionaries. 

In  spite  of  its  small  extent  and  scanty  population,  Manono  is 
identified  with  the  political  history  of  all  the  other  islands  of  the  group; 
for,  during  the  reigns  of  the  two  Tamafagos,  it  held  supremacy  over 
them.  The  reason  of  its  acquiring  and  exercising  this  political  supre- 
macy, is  principally  to  be  ascribed  to  the  possession  by  its  inhabitants 
of  the  small  island  of  Apolima,  which  they  used  as  their  "olo"  or 
citadel.  To  this  retreat,  inaccessible  except  at  a  single  point,  the 
inhabitants  of  Manono  were  in  the  habit  of  retiring  when  pressed  by 
too  powerful  an  enemy,  and  when  his  rage  had  spent  itself,  they  thence 
returned  to  their  home  with  undiminished  numbers. 

This  natural  fortress  lies  between  Manono  and  Savaii,  and  sound- 
ings extend  to  it  both  from  the  shores  of  Upolu  and  Savaii.  The  coral 
reef  attached  to  it  is  but  small. 


108  UPOLU  — MANONO  — SAVAII. 

Apolima,  on  the  most  cursory  examination,  is  evidently  the  crater 
of  an  extinct  volcano.  Perpendicular  clifl's  rise  from  the  sea  around 
its  whole  circuit,  except  at  a  single  point  on  its  northern  side.  Here 
the  lip  of  the  crater  is  broken  down,  and  admits  the  water  of  the  sea 
into  a  small  bay,  which  affords  a  safe  harbour  for  boats.  The  entrance 
to  this  is  so  narrow  as  to  admit  no  more  than  one  boat  at  a  time,  and 
is  dangerous  whenever  there  is  any  surf.  It  may,  therefore,  be  easily 
defended.  There  is  only  one  other  point  on  the  island  where  it  is 
possible  to  effect  a  landing,  namely,  at  a  small  height  to  the  westward 
of  the  bay,  and  here  it  can  only  be  done  when  the  water  is  perfectly 
smooth.  But  an  enemy  landing  here  would  have  made  no  progress, 
for  before  the  interior  can  be  reached  from  this  point,  the  steep  and 
precipitous  rocks  remain  to  be  climbed. 

The  highest  point  of  Apolima  is  on  its  south  side,  where  it  is  four 
hundred  and  seventy-two  feet  above  the  sea.  The  perpendicular 
clifis  which  face  the  sea  are  of  course  bare  of  vegetation;  but  with 
this  exception  the  whole  surface  is  covered  with  cocoa,  bread-fruit, 
and  other  trees,  or  with  plantations  of  taro,  yams,  &c. 

In  the  centre  of  the  island  is  a  village  of  about  twenty  houses,  and 
the  permanent  population  consists  of  no  more  than  about  seventy-five 
persons.  The  people  are  evidently  jealous  of  the  maiden  reputation  of 
their  natural  fortress,  and  showed  much  concern  when  we  visited  it, 
which  the  women  even  manifested  by  shedding  tears. 

It  can  be  readily  understood  from  this  description  of  Apolima,  that 
whatever  parly  held  it  would  be  able  to  maintain  possession  of  it 
against  great  odds,  and  thence  to  take  advantage  of  any  weakness  or 
want  of  watchfulness  on  the  part  of  their  enemies. 

While  we  were  engaged  at  Tutuila  and  Upolu,  the  survey  of  the 
island  of  Savaii  was  performed  by  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold, 
in  the  Porpoise.  It  has  already  been  mentioned  that  this  vessel  had 
been  detached  for  that  purpose,  and  that  Dr.  Pickering,  from  the 
Vincennes,  had  gone  in  her.  The  brig  first  touched  at  Sapapale,  the 
residence  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Hardie,  who  gave  them  a  cordial  welcome, 
although  much  surprised  at  so  unusual  an  arrival. 

Many  of  the  natives  collected  to  view  the  white  men,  of  whom  so 
many  had  never  been  seen  together  on  the  island.  In  their  remarks, 
they,  among  other  things,  praised  our  people  for  their  beauty. 

Dr.  Pickering  and  Lieutenant  Maury  were  landed  here,  to  remain 
upon  the  island  while  the  brig  was  employed  in  surveying  it;  the 
former  to  examine  its  productions,  the  latter  to  observe  the  tides. 
Mr.  Hardie  kindly  afforded  them  accommodations  in  a  new  house  he 
had  just  been  erecting. 


UPOLU  — MANONO  — SAVAII.  109 

Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  after  landing  Dr.  Pickering  and 
Lieutenant  Maury  at  Sapapale,  proceeded  around  the  island  for  the 
purpose  of  surveying  it.  He  began  with  the  examination  of  the  large 
bay  of  Paluale,  near  the  eastern  point  of  the  island.  Here  there  is  a 
missionary  station,  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  M'Donald,  who 
had  resided  there  for  about  six  months,  with  his  wife  and  children. 
The  natives  are  peaceable,  but  are  described  as  inquisitive  and  rude. 
The  village  is  prettily  situated,  and  is  approached  through  a  boat- 
passage  in  the  reef. 

The  south  side  of  the  island  was  found  rocky  and  iron-bound,  with 
a  heavy  surf  breaking  on  it.  Towards  the  western  end  of  the  island, 
the  rocks  around  the  points  were  worn  into  cavities,  and  the  sea  rolling 
into  them  produced  innumerable  spouts  of  water. 

When  the  brig  was  abreast  of  the  deep  inlet  of  Salealua,  a  native 
missionary  came  off  in  a  whale-boat.  He  tendered  every  possible 
civility,  and  was  very  desirous  that  a  trade  might  be  opened  with  the 
village  of  the  same  name.  This  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  bay, 
upon  a  sandy  beach,  and  has  around  it  and  upon  the  sea-shore  a  con- 
siderable extent  of  level  plain,  filled  with  groves  of  cocoa-nut  and 
bread-fruit.  Upon  examination,  no  shelter  was  found  for  vessels  in 
this  bay,  and  the  urgency  of  the  duty  required  that  the  brig  should 
pass  on  without  farther  intercourse  with  the  shore. 

Near  the  northwestern  point  of  Savaii  is  the  large  and  beautiful 
village  of  Felialupo.  with  a  snug  little  cove  for  boats.  This  place  is 
under  the  charge  of  a  Tonga  missionary.  The  natives  were  friendly, 
and  disposed  to  exchange  their  poultry  and  fruit,  for  tools,  cloth,  &c. 

The  next  inlet  on  the  north  side,  was  that  of  Asau.  This  was  sup- 
posed to  be  the  only  place  where  there  was  any  probability  of  finding 
a  harbour.  But  the  hope  of  such  discovery  was  frustrated,  for  there  is 
only  a  small  and  shallow  entrance  through  the  reef,  and  within  the  reef 
the  shore  forms  an  extensive  flat. 

Many  canoes  from  this  village  visited  the  brig,  and  before  they  had 
taken  leave  a  theft  was  discovered.  A  commotion  immediately  took 
place,  and  the  native  missionary  at  once  gave  himself  up  as  a  hostage, 
until  the  article  (a  whetstone)  should  be  brought  back.  A  canoe  was 
then  despatched  to  the  chief,  and  in  the  course  of  an  hour  he  came  on 
board,  bringing  the  article.  Both  the  chief  and  the  native  missionary 
expressed  great  mortification  that  such  an  occurrence  had  taken  place. 
Several  small  presents  were  made  to  them,  and  they  returned  to  the 
shore  highly  pleased. 

Proceeding  on  the  survey,  the  brig  arrived  off  the  north  point  of  the 
island,  and  reached  the  bay  of  Mataatua,  which  was  examined,  and 


HO  POLU  — MANONO  — SAVAII. 

found  to  afford  a  good  anchorage.  The  brig  was  anchored  here,  and 
the  harbour  surveyed.  This  is  the  only  harbour  in  the  island  where  a 
vessel  can  anchor  with  safety,  and  here  supplies  of  hogs,  poultry,  and 
vegetables,  may  be  had  in  abundance ;  wood  and  water  are  also  easily 
obtained,  the  latter  from  copious  springs  near  the  beach. 

A  great  difference  in  form,  physiognomy,  and  manners,  from  those 
of  the  adjacent  villages,  was  observed  here,  as  well  as  a  change  in  the 
character  of  many  articles  of  manufacture.  The  war-clubs  and  spears 
were  of  uncommon  form,  and  neatly  made. 

This  bay  is  surrounded  by  a  white  coral  beach.  The  natives 
appeared  harmless,  but  manifested  great  curiosity.  The  women  are 
more  gracefully  formed  than  at  the  other  islands. 

The  native  missionaries  appeared  to  exercise  much  influence  over 
them,  having  put  a  stop  to  many  of  their  former  evil  practices. 

On  the  24th,  the  brig  again  arrived  oft'  Sapapale,  after  an  absence 
of  nine  days.  Here  they  were  joined  by  Dr.  Pickering  and  Lieutenant 
Maury,  and  found  the  old  chief  Malietoa  and  his  son  Mole,  who  were 
extremely  courteous.  On  the  former  being  presented  with  some 
articles,  he  remarked,  that  "  our  property  wras  very  good,  but  our 
good-will  better." 

Dr.  Pickering  engaged  natives  to  accompany  him  into  the  interior, 
and  to  visit  the  Mu  or  burnt  district.  Preparations  for  the  journey 
were  made  in  advance,  and  among  other  things,  it  was  stipulated  that 
there  should  be  only  two  meals  a  day, — one  early  in  the  morning,  and 
another  in  the  evening.  The  first  day,  however,  was  to  form  an 
exception. 

Mr.  Hardie  accompanied  the  party  for  a  few  miles,  and  they  soon 
after  their  departure  met  a  native  who  was  styled  "  the  Lord  of  the 
Forest."  The  party  were  desirous  that  this  man  should  accompany 
them,  for  his  appearance  promised  more  than  that  of  the  others,  and  it 
seemed  it  was  necessary  to  obtain  his  permission  before  they  could 
enter  the  forest.  In  times  of  scarcity,  his  domains  become  of  great 
value,  in  consequence  of  the  quantity  of  wild  yams  they  yield.  This 
person  agreed  to  accompany  them,  and  they  proceeded  along  a  good 
path  through  cultivated  grounds  of  taro,  draca)na,  &c.  Mr.  Hardie, 
before  leaving  the  party,  endeavoured  to  make  the  natives  understand 
the  nature  of  Dr.  Pickering's  errand ;  the  latter  was  unable  to  make 
himself  understood  by  them.  They  had  not  proceeded  far  before  they 
came  to  an  uninhabited  house,  where  the  natives  stopped  for  the  pur- 
pose of  preparing  dinner,  the  cooking  of  which  occupied  three  hours! 
The  day  was  in  consequence  well  advanced  before  they  again  started, 
and  at  about  4  r.  M.  they  reached  an  open  shed,  about  two  miles  from 


UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII.  HI 

the  last  stopping-place,  where  the  natives  concluded  to  halt  for  the 
night.  The  occupants,  who  consisted  of  two  elderly  women  and  a 
young  man,  were  dispossessed,  and  the  shed  was  enclosed  by  hanging 
up  leaves  of  the  Heliconia,  which  resemble  those  of  the  banana.  They 
then  prepared  some  excellent  cocoa-nut  pudding,  and  heated  some 
cocoa-nut  milk  in  the  shells.  This  beverage  is  usually  taken  by  them 
every  morning  and  evening ;  the  natives  all  saying  grace  before  their 
meal,  and  prayers  before  they  went  to  rest.  It  was  late  the  next  morn- 
ing before  Dr.  Pickering  could  get  the  party  in  motion,  and  pursuing 
their  route,  they  soon  overtook  the  Lord  of  the  Forest,  who  had  pre- 
ceded them,  and  was  employed  in  cutting  a  path  through  the  woods, 
although  that  already  made  might  have  been  easily  passed  through. 
No  inducement  could  make  them  change  their  purpose,  and  they  con- 
tinued to  work  at  their  turnpike,  lopping  off  large  branches,  beating 
down  ferns,  &c.  After  some  time,  they  reached  a  rising  ground,  which 
they  found  to  be  on  one  side  of  a  crater,  about  a  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  seven  miles  inland. 

Dr.  Pickering  now  concluded  that  it  was  a  hopeless  task  to  attempt 
to  penetrate  into  the  interior  with  such  guides,  and  determined  to 
return,  which  he  accordingly  did.  He  found  the  rest  of  his  party  a 
mile  in  advance  of  their  previous  encampment,  where  they  had  built 
for  themselves  a  fine  house,  and  each  man  had  collected  two  large 
baskets  of  yams  for  provisions.  This  was  their  stopping-place  for  the 
night,  and  among  other  cares  for  the  Doctor's  comfort,  they  con- 
structed for  him  a  native  pillow,  formed  of  a  piece  of  bamboo,  with 
legs  lashed  to  it  about  three  inches  high. 

The  natives  were  in  high  spirits  during  the  evening,  talking  and 
laughing  immoderately.  They  succeeded  in  getting  off  by  nine 
o'clock  the  next  day,  and  reached  the  coast  about  noon. 

During  the  stay  of  Dr.  Pickering  and  Lieutenant  Maury  on  this 
island,  they  were  objects  of  great  curiosity ;  and  whenever  they  walked 
out  they  were  followed,  not  only  by  boys,  but  grown  men,  who  did 
not,  however,  offer  to  molest  them  in  any  way.  When  they  passed 
through  the  villages,  all  the  inhabitants,  not  excepting  the  scholars 
from  the  schools,  came  out  to  look  at  them.  The  latter,  however,  did 
not  abandon  their  books,  but  retained  them  in  their  hands ;  for  all, 
whether  young,  middle-aged,  or  old,  are  anxious  to  learn,  and  their 
perseverance,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  group,  is  astonishing. 

Dr.  Pickering  here  witnessed  the  taking  of  fish  in  a  different  mode 
from  that  practised  on  the  other  islands.  Application  was  made  to 
the  chief,  and  through  his  influence  a  meeting  of  the  head  men  of  the 
town  was  called,  and  a  fishing  expedition  agreed  upon.  The  net,  if  it 


112  UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII. 

could  be  so  called,  was  prepared,  and  in  the  course  of  two  days  every 
thing  was  ready.  The  net  was  a  kind  of  cheval-de-frise,  made  of  tho 
leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut  tree,  split  and  wound  round  a  line,  and  was 
little  less  than  half  a  mile  in  length.  It  was  more  formidable  in 
appearance  than  in  reality.  This  net  was  taken  out  at  high  water  to 
the  coral  reef,  in  three  pieces,  then  fastened  together,  and  thus  made 
to  enclose  a  large  extent  of  water.  This  space  was  gradually  con- 
tracted by  doubling  up  the  net,  which  answered  the  same  purpose  as  the 
drawing  of  a  seine.  The  fish  did  not  attempt  to  pass  it,  and  were  thus 
driven  towards  a  certain  point,  where  a  sort  of  sack  of  matting  had 
been  placed  for  them  to  enter.  As  the  fish  were  gradually  enclosed 
by  the  mat,  and  the  tide  fell,  the  scene  became  an  animated  one. 
Men,  women,  and  boys,  to  the  number  of  two  or  three  hundred,  were 
eagerly  engaged  in  picking  up  or  catching  the  stragglers  as  they  were 
seen  leaping  up  ;  the  whole  area  seemed  alive  with  fish,  jumping  in 
every  direction,  some  over  the  heads  of  the  natives,  and  thus  escaping, 
while  others  leaped  into  hand-nets.  About  a  canoe-load  was  caught, 
comprising  thirty  different  kinds  of  fish,  some  of  which  were  six  or 
eight  pounds  in  weight,  but  the  majority  were  smaller.  The  haul  was 
considered  an  unsuccessful  one,  which  was  attributed  to  some  misun- 
derstanding and  mismanagement  among  the  natives,  by  which  a  large 
stone  fell  on  the  net,  and  allowed  many  of  the  fish  to  escape. 

Savaii  is  the  most  western  island  of  the  Samoan  Group,  and  is  also 
the  largest,  being  forty  miles  in  length  and  twenty  in  breadth.  It  is 
not,  however,  as  populous,  or  as  important,  as  several  of  the  others. 
It  differs  from  any  of  the  others  in  its  appearance,  for  its  shore  is  low, 
and  the  ascent  thence  to  the  centre  is  gradual,  except  where  the  cones 
of  a  few  extinct  craters  arc  seen.  In  the  middle  of  the  island  a  peak 
rises,  which  is  almost  continually  enveloped  in  clouds,  and  is  the 
highest  land  in  the  group.  On  account  of  these  clouds,  angles  could 
not  be  taken  for  determining  its  height  accurately,  but  it  certainly 
exceeds  four  thousand  feet. 

The  interior  of  the  island  is  rarely  entered,  even  by  natives,  and 
has  never  been  penetrated  by  strangers.  The  only  settlements  are 
upon  the  shore,  along  which  the  natives  always  journey,  and  there  are 
no  paths  across  it. 

Another  marked  difference  between  Savaii  and  the  other  large 
islands,  is  the  want  of  any  permanent  streams, — a  circumstance 
which  may  be  explained,  notwithstanding  the  frequency  of  rain,  by 
the  porous  nature  of  the  rock  (vesicular  lava)  of  which  it  is  chiefly 
composed.  Water,  however,  gushes  out  near  the  shore  in  copious 
springs,  and  when  heavy  and  continual  rains  have  occurred,  streams 


UPOLU  — MANONO  — SAVAII.  H3 

are  formed  in  the  ravines,  but  these  soon  disappear  after  the  rains 
have  ceased. 

The  coral  reef  attached  to  this  island  is  interrupted  to  the  south  and 
west,  where  the  surf  beats  full  upon  the  rocky  shore.  There  are,  in 
consequence,  but  few  places  where  boats  can  land,  and  only  one 
harbour  for  ships,  that  of  Mataatua;  even  this  is  unsafe  from  November 
to  February,  when  the  northwesterly  gales  prevail. 

The  soil  is  fertile,  and  was  composed  in  every  part  of  the  island  that 
was  visited,  of  decomposed  volcanic  rock  and  vegetable  mould. 

The  Porpoise,  having  taken  Dr.  Pickering  and  Lieutenant  Maury 
again  on  board,  set  sail  for  Tutuila,  for  the  purpose  of  joining  the 
Vincennes,  and  beat  to  windward  along  the  south  side  of  Upolu. 
During  this  passage  many  of  the  crew  became  sick,  which  rendered 
it  necessary  to  stop  for  a  few  days  at  Pago-pago,  in  order  to  recruit 
them.  Here  they  all  speedily  recovered,  except  one  man,  named 
David  Blodget,  who  died.  The  disorder  was  attributed  to  the  damp- 
ness of  the  vessel. 

The  delay  in  the  arrival  of  the  Porpoise  at  Apia  caused  me  to  send 
the  Flying-Fish  to  Tutuila,  whence  they  both  returned  to  Apia. 

Previous  to  sailing,  at  the  pressing  instance  of  the  chiefs,  I  ordered 
the  marines  and  small-arm  men  of  the  squadron,  in  all  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty,  to  be  sent  on  shore,  with  their  music,  for  exercise. 
They  had  been  well  drilled  to  act  on  shore  should  occasion  require, 
and  were  provided  for  the  occasion  with  blank  cartridges.  The 
natives  from  far  and  near  were  collected  to  witness  the  review,  and 
few  scenes  that  occurred  during  the  voyage  were  as  amusing  as  this. 
The  old  and  young  were  equally  delighted,  and  it  was  ludicrous  to  see 
them  endeavouring  to  imitate  the  soldiers,  in  their  marches  and 
countermarches.  They  were  not  satisfied  unless  the  drummers  were 
constantly  beating,  and  were  particularly  delighted  with  the  bass-drum. 
The  firing  occasioned  some  alarm  at  first,  but  when  they  saw  it  did  no 
harm,  they  became  reconciled  1o  it,  although  even  to  the  last  they 
would  scamper  off  to  a  distance  at  each  discharge. 

The  review  left  an  impression  on  their  minds  of  the  superiority  of 
our  arms  that  will  not  soon  be  forgotten. 

The  men  were  embarked  at  sunset,  and  had  many  jokes  to  relate  of 
the  conduct  of  the  natives,  and  particularly  old  Pea,  who  on  this,  as 
on  other  occasions,  acted  as  master  of  the  ceremonies. 

During  our  stay  in  this  group,  we  experienced  two  slight  shocks  of 
earthquakes ;  their  occurrence  here  is  not  unusual,  but  there  is  no 
account  of  any  damage  having  been  done.  Their  motion  is  generally 
tremulous  and  horizontal ;  one,  however,  has  been  experienced  of  a 

VOL.  ii.  15 


114 


UPOLU  —  MANONO  —  SAVAII. 


wavy  description.     They  are  said  by  the  foreigners  often  to  produce 
the  sensation  of  sea-sickness. 

On  the  10th  of  November,  the  whole  squadron  was  assembled  in  the 
harbour  of  Apia,  after  having  been  actively  engaged  since  the  8th  of 
October  in  examining  the  different  islands,  and  making  surveys  of  their 
coasts  and  harbours,  &c.  This  work  was  all  expeditiously  and  well 
done,  with  the  exception  of  the  south  side  of  the  island  of  Upolu,  which 
was  imperfect  in  some  respects ;  it  was  consequently  re-surveyed  in 
the  following  year,  and  the  charts  finished.  Besides  the  surveys,  full 
series  of  experiments  were  made  in  magnetism,  and  extensive  collec- 
tions obtained  in  natural  history,  botany,  &c.,  the  islands  being 
traversed  by  parties  in  several  directions  for  this  purpose.  For  the 
results  in  these  departments,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  Reports  of 
the  Naturalists;  and  to  the  Hydrographic  Atlas,  for  the  charts. 


FAN,  BASKET,  NECKLACE,  COMB,  ETC. 


CHAPTER  V. 


CONTENTS. 

GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION  OF  THE  SAMOAN  GROUP— ITS  HARBOURS-ITS  TIDES  AND 
CURRENTS— ITS  CLIMATE— SIZE  OF  THE  ISLANDS— SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS  OF  THE 
GROUP— ITS  CULTIVATION— ITS  dUADRUPEDS— ITS  BIRDS— ITS  REPTILES— ITS  FISH  — 
ITS  PRODUCTS  AVAILABLE  FOR  COMMERCE  — LANGUAGE  OF  ITS  NATIVES  — THEIR 
DISEASES— THEIR  GENERAL  APPEARANCE— THEIR  NATIONAL  CHARACTER— LABOURS 
OF  THE  MISSIONARIES— NATIVE  MISSIONARIES— SELECTION  OF  THEM  FOR  THE  NEW 
HEBRIDES— POPULATION  OF  THE  ISLANDS-RELIGION  OF  THE  HEATHEN— THEIR  IDEA 
OF  THE  CREATION  — OF  A  FUTURE  STATE— THEIR  OMENS— THEIR  SUPERSTITION  — 
THEIR  DANCES  — THEIR  MUSICAL  INSTRUMENTS— THEIR  AMUSEMENTS  — PAPAL ANGI 
SHIP  — THEIR  BIRTHS  — THEIR  MARRIAGES  AND  COURTSHIP  —  THEIR  ADOPTION  OF 
CHILDREN— THEIR  BURIALS— THEIR  MOURNING— THEIR  MANNERS  AND  APPEARANCE 
—THEIR  DRESS— IMPROVEMENTS  IN  THE  ANCIENT  DRESS— TATTOOING— THEIR  MANU- 
FACTURE OF  TAP  A  AND  MATS  — SAMOAN  CANOES  — BOAT-SONG  — HOUSES  OF  THE 
NATIVES— THEIR  LIGHTS— THEIR  FOOD-THEIR  HABITS  — THEIR  MALANG AS  — THEIR 
PUNISHMENTS  FOR  CRIMES  — THEIR  WARS  — THEIR  OLOS— THEIR  PEACE-MAKING  — 
CLASSES  OF  SAMOAN  SOCIETY— ALLOTMENT  OF  LANDS  — MODE  OF  GOVERNMENT  — 
DESCENT  OF  CHIEFTAINSHIP— CEREMONIES  AT  THE  FONOS. 


(115) 


\    v 


S  A  IVI  O  A  N    G  R  O  U  P.  1 19 

The  islands  of  the  Samoan  Group  contain  two  thousand  six  hundred 
and  fifty  square  miles,  which  are  divided  as  follows,  viz. : 

Savaii 700 

Upolu 560 

Tutuila 240 

Manono  ........  9 

Apolima  ........  7 

Manua  .         . 100 

Oloosinga ........  24 

Ofoo 10 

The  soil  of  all  the  islands  is  rich,  and  arises  chiefly  from  the  decom- 
position of  volcanic  rocks.  At  Tutuila,  it  was  remarked  that  the 
vegetation  was  luxuriant,  and  the  trees  of  large  growth.  At  Upolu 
the  forests  seemed  more  sombre  than  those  of  Brazil,  although  the  same 
kind  of  growth  appeared  to  prevail. 

The  trees  do  not  branch  out  until  near  the  top,  which  renders  it 
difficult  to  obtain  botanical  specimens.  The  trunks  are  covered,  and 
even  the  summits  of  the  trees  sometimes  overgrown,  with  the  leaves 
of  the  scandent  Flagellaria  (Freycinetia,)  a  climbing  Piper,  and  other 
vines,  as  Hoyas,  Convolvulus,  &c.  The  lower  part  of  the  trunks  are 
enveloped  with  ferns,  of  which  there  are  many  varieties,  and  with 
some  species  of  Pothos,  which  give  the  whole  ground  a  matted  or 
woven  appearance. 

The  woods  in  the  interior  of  the  islands  are  very  thick,  and  often 
composed  of  large  and  fine  trees;  among  them  are,  tree-ferns,  a  species 
of  banyan,  pandanus,  and  several  species  of  palms.  Among  other 
plants  a  species  of  Cerbera  was  observed,  with  beautiful  clusters  of 
large  and  odorous  white  flowers,  which  yielded  a  quantity  of  white 
viscous  sap,  that  our  botanist,  Mr.  Rich,  thought  might  be  manufac- 
tured into  caoutchouc.  On  the  whole,  the  species  of  trees  are  much 
more  numerous  than  at  Tahiti,  and  the  vegetation  in  consequence 
richer  and  more  varied.  The  woods,  however,  are  not  enlivened  by 
showy  flowers,  and  the  few  of  these  that  are  seen  are  of  a  white  or 
grayish  hue,  which  is  to  be  ascribed  to  their  being  but  little  exposed  to 
the  rays  of  the  sun,  in  consequence  of  the  umbrageous  foliage.  Many 
of  the  flowers  seen  on  the  ground  were  unknown  to  our  botanist,  as 
were  several  fruits. 

Among  the  trees  which  have  been  named,  that  which  struck  us  as 
most  remarkable  was  the  species  of  banyan  (Ficus  religiosa),  called 
in  these  islands  Ohwa.  Some  of  these  were  seen,  whose  pendant 
branches  had  taken  root  in  the  ground  to  the  number  of  thousands, 
forming  stems  from  an  inch  to  two  feet  in  diameter,  uniting  in  the 
main  trunk  more  .than  eighty  feet  above  the  ground,  and  supporting  a 


120 


SAMOAN    GROUP. 


vast  system  of  horizontal  branches,  spreading  like  an  umbrella  over 
the  tops  of  the  other  trees.  For  the  sketch  of  one  of  these  I  am  in- 
debted to  Mr.  Pealc. 


OH\VA  TREE. 


The  bread-fruit  is  the  most  abundant  of  all  the  trees,  and  grows 
here  to  a  large  size;  the  vi-apple,  the  cocoa-nut,  and  the  wild  orange 
arc  also  found  in  great  numbers ;  and  at  Tutuila  a  large  lime-tree  was 
seen  in  full  bearing,  which  was  said  to  have  been  planted  before  the 
arrival  of  the  missionaries. 

Among  the  most  singular  of  the  vegetable  productions  is  the  stinging 
tree,  of  which  the  natives  are  much  afraid ;  for  if  its  leaves  be  touched 
an  eruption  is  produced,  particularly  if  the  skin  be  wet.  Its  leaf  is 
cordate,  but  quite  smooth. 

The  arborescent  ferns  are  not  as  numerous  as  at  Tahiti,  but  grow  to 
a  larger  size.  The  palms  give  a  character  of  luxuriance  to  the  country, 
from  the  variety  of  their  foliage."  Rattans  ninety  feet  in  length  were 
seen  running  over  the  trees. 

Bamboos  and  the  wild  sugar-cane  were  very  common;  the  latter  is 
used  in  thatching  houses :  the  wild  ginger  also  abounds. 

Of  the  wild  nutmeg  (Myrislica,)  two  species  were  seen,  which  are 
small  trees,  and  likely  to  be  passed  without  notice,  were  it  not  for  the 
peculiar  manner  in  whic-.h  branches  grow  out  of  the  trunk,  which  is 
in  whirls,  at  regular  intervals,  like  the  white  pine  (Pinus  strobus)  of 
our  Northern  Stales. 

Jt  was  remarked  that  the  character  of  the  vegetation  approached 
more  nearly  to  that  of  the  East  Indies  than  of  the  Society  Islands,  and 
the  leafless  acacias  were  the  type  of  those  we  afterwards  saw  in  New 
Holland;  but  there  are  some  plants  which  appear  peculiar  to  these 
islands. 


SA  MOAN    GROUP.  121 

Many  of  the  trees  we  have  named,  as  well  as  other  plants,  are 
objects  of  cultivation;  but  the  ground  cleared  for  this  purpose  doss 
not  extend  far  from  the  coasts,  near  which  all  the  villages  are 
situated. 

To  clear  the  land,  the  bark  is  burnt  off  the  trees,  after  which  they 
are  permitted  to  stand  until  they  become  dry,  when  they  are  cut  down 
and  used  as  fuel. 

The  cultivated  plants  and  trees  are,  bread-fruit  (of  which  they  have 
twenty  varieties),  cocoa-nut,  ti  (Dracaena),  bananas,  taro,  paper-mul- 
berry, tacca,  from  which  arrow-root  is  made,  and  of  which  they  have 
several  sorts ;  sugar-cane,  which  is  not  made  into  sugar,  but  used  only 
for  thatching;  coffee,  ava  (Piper  mythisticum),  sweet-potato,  pine- 
apple (Anana),  brought  by  the  missionaries  from  the  Society  Islands, 
yams,  the  papaya,  and  tobacco  in  small  quantities.  The  agave  has 
not  been  introduced ;  but  in  a  few  years  lemons  and  sweet  oranges 
will  be  produced  in  great  quantities  from  trees  which  have  recently 
been  planted. 

To  the  cultivation  of  the  tacca  they  pay  little  attention,  yet  the 
quality  of  the  fecula  (arrow-root)  made  from  it  is  said  to  be  superior. 

The  missionaries  are  endeavouring  to  teach  the  natives  the  best 
mode  of  cultivating  the  sugar-cane  and  manufacturing  it,  and  it  is  said 
that  a  few  persons  have  adopted  the  new  methods.  At  present  they 
find  a  substitute  for  sugar  in  the  root  of  the  ti  plant,  which  is  baked 
in  ovens,  and  yields  a  large  quantity  of  saccharine  juice  resembling 
molasses. 

Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  cultivation  of  the  yam.  They  are 
planted  in  October,  and  are  ripe  in  February  and  March.  The  vines 
run  up  the  trees,  and  when  they  die,  the  root  is  known  to  be  ripe. 
To  plant  them,  they  are  cut,  like  the  potato,  into  pieces  containing 
eyes,  which  are  laid  in  heaps  and  covered  up  until  the  sprout  appears. 
The  pieces  are  then  set  out  at  distances  of  about  three  feet  from  each 
other. 

Hearing  that  there  were  some  extensive  savannas  in  Upolu,  over- 
grown with  the  wild  sugar-cane,  I  directed  Assistant-Surgeon  Whittle 
and  Mr.  Couthouy,  to  proceed  to  the  east  end  of  the  island,  where 
they  were  said  to  grow.  They,  however,  saw  nothing  of  the  kind 
except  a  few  small  patches  of  that  plant. 

There  are  no  traces  among  these  islands  of  any  native  quadruped, 
nor  any  other  of  the  mammalia,  except  a  species  of  bat  (Pteropus 
ruficollis),  which  is  very  destructive  to  the  bread-fruit.  Swine  have 
now  become  abundant,  and  the  missionaries  have  introduced  cattle, 
which  are  rapidly  increasing,  and  will  in  a  few  years  be  in  sufficient 

VOL.   II.  10 


122  SAMOAN    GROUP. 

numbers  for  the  supply  of  vessels.  Horses  have  also  been  brought  to 
the  islands.* 

The  first  large  quadruped  ever  seen  by  these  islanders  was  a  mule. 
With  it  they  were  much  astonished,  and  it  was  considered  so  great  a 
curiosity  that  it  was  carried  around  the  island  of  Upolu  for  the 
purpose  of  gratifying  the  natives  with  a  sight  of  it.  They  gave  it  a 
name,  signifying — the  hog  that  travels  over  the  ground. 

Poultry  of  all  descriptions  is  plentiful,  and  pigeons  abound,  which, 
however,  are  considered  sacred,  and  not  used  as  an  article  of  food. 
Of  the  latter  bird  (Columba  oceanica),  between  sixty  and  seventy 
specimens  of  different  varieties  were  obtained,  but  it  is  remarkable 
that  of  all  these,  none  were  the  same  as  those  found  in  the  Society 
Islands.  To  the  Zoological  Report  I  would  refer  for  further  informa- 
tion on  this  subject.  There  are  but  few  birds  of  game,  and  none  of 
the  hawk  genus.  A  philomel  was  pointed  out  by  the  missionaries  as 
the  principal  singing  bird,  and  the  woods  of  Tutuila  were  filled  with 
warblers.  The  note  of  the  philornel,  although  much  praised,  did  not 
appear  agreeable  to  me. 

The  pigeon  is  commonly  kept  as  a  plaything,  and  particularly  by 
the  chiefs ;  for  this  purpose  they  are  fastened  to  a  stick  by  a  thread 
about  twelve  feet  in  length.  They  are  taught  to  fly  from  and  return 
to  the  stick,  and  when  well  tutored  to  this  feat,  the  possessor  of  the 
bird  exhibits  it  with  much  pride  and  satisfaction.  One  of  our  officers 
unfortunately  on  one  occasion  shot  a  pigeon,  which  caused  great  com- 
motion, for  the  bird  was  a  king-pigeon,  and  to  kill  it  was  thought  as 
great  a  crime  as  taking  the  life  of  a  man.  The  people  were  not  to  be 
pacified  until  the  interpreter  told  them  that  the  officer  belonged  to 
"  man-of-war,"  which  intelligence,  together  with  a  small  present, 
satisfied  them,  and  the  matter  was  settled. 

To  justify  their  regard  for  them,  we  were  told  that  when  the  in- 
habitants of  Aana  were  driven  away,  about  eight  years  since,  by  the 
people  of  Manono,  the  pigeons  abandoned  the  district,  but  that  upon 
their  return  to  their  homes,  the  pigeons  again  made  their  appearance 
in  their  former  abodes. 

Snakes  were  found  in  Upolu,  and  sea-snakes  are  reported  to  have 
been  seen  off*  the  islands. 

Fish  are  taken  in  the  neighbouring  waters  in  great  abundance  and 
variety.  Besides  other  modes  of  taking  them,  they  are  caught  on  the 
reefs  by  women,  who  place  baskets  near  the  holes  where  they  are 
accustomed  to  take  shelter.  They  are  also  speared  by  torchlight,  and 

*  On  Upolu  there  are  now  twenty  head  of  cattle,  and  seven  horses. 


SAMOAN    GROUP.  123 

taken  in  deep  water  by  the  hook.  Among  the  sea-fish,  mullets  are  very 
numerous,  and  are  frequently  seen  leaping  from  the  water  in  immense 
shoals. 

One  of  the  modes  in  which  fish  are  caught  by  the  Samoans,  was 
witnessed  at  Samatau.  About  a  dozen  canoes  formed  themselves  into 
a  ring  around  what  appeared  to  be  a  dark  circular  spot  in  the  water, 
about  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  which  was  moving  along  with  a  slow 
and  unequal  motion.  This  was  a  shoal  of  the  small  fish  called  lou, 
which  is  about  two  inches  in  length.  The  shoal  being  thus  surrounded, 
the  circle  of  canoes  was  gradually  lessened,  until  the  fish,  finding  them- 
selves enclosed  on  all  sides,  ceased  to  move  forward.  At  this  moment, 
the  head  fisher,  who  was  seen  standing  up  in  the  canoe  with  a  net  in 
his  hand,  threw  it  dexterously  over  the  shoal,  upon  which  all  the  other 
men  dove  at  once  from  the  boats,  and  remained  for  several  seconds 
under  the  water,  where  they  secured  the  sides  of  the  net.  On  reap- 
pearing, all  regained  their  canoes  except  four,  who  remained  to  take 
charge  of  the  net,  which  with  its  prize  they  conveyed  to  the  chief. 

These  islands  furnish  abundant  supplies  for  the  refreshment  of 
vessels,  but  as  yet  there  are  few  articles  which  can  be  rendered  avail- 
able in  foreign  commerce.  Tortoise-shell,  of  which  a  little  has  at  times 
been  procured  at  Savaii,  cocoa-nut  oil,  and  arrow-root,  are  nearly  all 
that  can  be  procured  in  quantities  beyond  the  immediate  wants  of  the 
visitors.  Caoutchouc,  gum  Arabic,  castor  beans,  orris-root,  ginger, 
and  coffee,  might  however  be  easily  added  to  the  list  of  exports.  In 
return  for  what  they  can  furnish,  the  natives  now  look  to  objects  of  real 
utility ;  beads,  jews-harps,  &c.,  once  so  much  in  request,  are  now 
scarcely  prized ;  and  cotton  cloth,  writing-paper,  and  hardware,  par- 
ticularly needles  and  other  small  articles  of  utility,  are  the  kinds  of 
manufactured  goods  which  are  most  sought  after. 

The  Samoan  language  is  soft  and  smooth,  and  is  the  only  one  of  the 
Polynesian  dialects  in  which  the  sound  of  s  is  found.  The  letters  that 
the  missionaries  have  found  necessary  to  adopt  in  order  to  write  it,  are 
only  fourteen  in  number,  viz.  CAEFGILMNOPSTUV.  In  attempt- 
ing to  sound  the  words  of  other  languages,  they  use  L  instead  of  R, 
s  for  H,  and  p  instead  of  B.  The  G  has  a  nasal  sound,  as  in  ong. 

It  has  nearly  the  same  construction  as  the  Tahitian,  nevertheless  the 
Samoan  is  far  from  being  understood  by  the  natives  of  the  Society 
Islands.  The  Samoans  say  that  they  never  can  acquire  it — "  their 
jaws  are  too  stiff."  The  missionaries  also  have  great  difficulty  in 
speaking  it,  and  are  liable  to  make  many  mistakes  which  appear  absurd 
to  the  natives. 


124  SAMOAN    GROUP. 

We  have  seen  that  it  possesses  the  sibilant  sound  of  s,  and  everyone 
of  the  words  terminates  with  a  vowel. 

A  separate  dialect  is  appropriate  to  the  chiefs,  all  of  whose  actions, 
the  parts  of  their  bodies,  &c.,  have  different  names  from  those  of  the 
common  people.  The  Philological  Report  is  referred  to  for  further 
information  upon  this  subject. 

Many  of  the  Samoans  reach  the  age  of  seventy  or  eighty  years. 
There  is,  however,  a  great  mortality  among  the  young  children,  which 
is  probably  owing  to  their  exposure  to  the  weather.  Those  who  sur- 
vive, grow  up  robust  and  healthy. 

Among  the  diseases  which  afflict  the  adults,  one  of  the  most  usual  is 
a  spinal  affection,  which  results  in  caries  and  produces  humpback.  This 
is  no  doubt  owing  to  the  peculiar  manner  in  which  the  children  are 
carried.  Catarrhs  and  bronchial  disorders,  occasioned  by  the  exposed 
life  of  the  natives,  are  prevalent,  and  a  white  resident  died  of  phthisis 
during  our  stay.  The  dysentery,  as  an  epidemic,  is  unknown,  but 
sporadic  cases  of  it  occur,  occasioned  by  imprudence  in  diet. 

There  is  an  eruptive  complaint,  called  ilamea,  which  covers  many 
of  the  children  under  the  age  of  ten  years  with  sores,  and  which  seems 
more  particularly  to  attack  the  face  and  head.  The  mode  in  which  it 
is  treated  is  singular:  the  child  is  rubbed  with  the  husks  of  the  cocoa- 
nut,  until  all  the  scabs  are  removed;  a  soft  preparation  of  the  bread- 
fruit is  then  applied,  after  which  they  are  washed.  This  operation  is 
undergone  every  time  they  bathe,  which  is  daily.  When  the  bread- 
fruit is  not  in  season,  a  decoction  of  the  husk  of  the  cocoa-nut  is  used 
in  its  place. 

The  elephantiasis  prevails  to  a  great  extent  among  men  who  are 
past  the  middle  age ;  and  some  of  the  cases  are  truly  frightful.  There 
are  also  many  instances  in  which  women  are  affected  by  it.  It  does 
not  appear  to  cause  the  least  degree  of  pain.  Among  the  reasons  that 
have  been  assigned  for  the  frequency  of  this  disease  are,  the  habit  of 
eating  their  food  without  salt,  and  the  use  of  cocoa-nut  water ;  to  which 
may  be  added  exposure  at  night,  and  want  of  sufficient  exercise.  The 
latter  cause,  whether  it  be  capable  of  producing  this  disease  or  not, 
unquestionably  exists ;  for  they  are  in  the  habit  of  sitting  for  hours  with 
their  legs  bent  under  them,  which  must  cause  a  stagnation  of  healthy 
circulation.  Laziness,  however,  cannot  be  ascribed  to  them  as  a  part 
of  their  national  character,  for  they  are  disposed  to  exertion,  and 
milling  to  be  employed.  When,  therefore,  they  have  received  sufficient 
instruction,  and  civilization  has  taught  them  new  wants,  they  will 
probably  become  an  industrious  and  thriving  people. 


S  A  M  O  A  N    GROUP.  125 

Ophthalmia,  which  is  supposed  to  arise  from  the  reflection  of  the 
sun  from  the  sandy  beaches  near  which  all  their  villages  are  built,  is 
so  prevalent,  that,  to  speak  within  bounds,  not  less  than  a  fifth  part  of 
the  population  is  affected  with  it.*  In  most  cases  it  was  observed  to 
begin  on  the  inner  corner  of  the  eye,  whence  it  extends  gradually 
over  the  pupil,  until  the  sight  is  completely  lost.  As  the  disease 
advances,  the  thickness  of  the  film  increases,  and  when  it  has  covered 
the  eye,  that  organ  becomes  enlarged  and  appears  to  project.  From 
appearances  it  would  not  be  difficult  to  remove  the  film,  and  thus  cure 
the  disorder;  but  the  natives  have  not  made  any  attempt  of  the  kind. 
Several  cases  of  total  blindness  arising  from  this  disorder  were  seen. 

The  venereal  disease  does  not  exist  at  Tutuila,  and  is  hardly  known 
in  the  other  islands.  This  serves  to  prove  how  great  a  superiority  this 
island  possesses  over  Tahiti  in  the  chastity  of  its  females,  who  in  gene- 
ral observe  their  marriage  vow  with  strict  fidelity. 

Fevers  are  rare,  and  those  of  a  remittent  and  intermittent  type  are 
unknown ;  in  fact,  the  geological  formation  of  these  islands  is  by  no 
means  favourable  to  the  generation  of  the  miasmata  that  cause  them. 

No  means  of  medical  assistance  are  attached  to  the  English  mission, 
and  the  missionaries,  therefore,  can  do  but  little  in  alleviating  the  mala- 
dies of  the  natives.  Even  their  slight  knowledge  of  remedies  affords 
some  alleviation,  and  their  practice  is  far  preferable  to  that  of  the 
natives,  who  always  abandon  to  their  fate  ihose  who  are  very  ill. 

Among  the  few  curative  means  that  the  natives  do  employ  is  a  sort 
of  shampooing.  This  is  performed  by  rubbing  the  body  and  limbs 
with  the  hands,  at  first  gently,  and  gradually  more  and  more  roughly. 
These  manipulations  are  applied  as  a  restorative  after  fatiguej  and  to 
alleviate  pain.  For  the  former  purpose  they  are  effectual,  and  often 
abate,  if  they  do  not  remove,  the  latter. 

Among  all  the  Polynesian  islanders,  the  men  of  Samoa  rank,  in 
point  of  personal  appearance,  second  only  to  the  Tongese ;  and  many 
specimens  of  manly  beauty  are  to  be  seen  among  them.  As  much 
cannot  be  said  of  the  women,  who  are  rather  ill-formed  and  stout. 
When  very  young,  however,  some  of  them  arc  pretty,  and  their  colour 
is  light,  being  little  darker  than  that  of  a  brunette  or  South  American 
Spaniard.  The  girls  are  lively,  have  a  good  expression  of  counte- 
nance, and,  what  is  rare  in  Polynesia,  have  some  degree  of  bashful- 
ness. 

The  average  height  of  the  men  is  five  feet  ten  inches,  and  some  of 

*  It  is  so  common  at  Savaii,  that  at  least  one  case  of  blindness,  in  one  or  both  eyes,  is  to 
be  seen  in  every  family. 


126  SAMOAN    GROUP. 

the  chiefs,  whose  limbs  are  well  rounded,  would  be  called  fine-looking 
men  in  any  part  of  the  world.  Their  features  are  not  in  general 
prominent,  but  are  well  marked  and  distinct,  and  are  all  referable  to  a 
common  type.  The  nose  is  short  and  wide  at  the  base;  the  mouth 
large  and  well  filled  with  white  and  strong  teeth,  with  full  and  well- 
turned  lips;  the  eyes  black,  arid  often  large  and  bright;  the  forehead 
narrow  and  high ;  and  the  cheek-bones  prominent.  It  was  observed 
that  some  of  them  had  the  eye  turned  up  at  the  outer  corner  like  the 
Chinese.  Of  beard,  they  have  but  little,  but  their  hair  is  strong, 
straight,  and  very  black ;  instances,  however,  were  observed,  where  it 
had  been  turned  to  a  carroty  red,  by  washing  it  with  lime-water  for 
the  purpose  of  destroying  the  vermin  (Pediculus  humanus). 

Little  difference  was  perceived  in  the  shape  of  the  heads  of  the  two 
sexes,  for  observing  which  there  is  a  good  opportunity  among  those 
who  have  embraced  Christianity,  who  shave  off  their  hair.  The 
general  form  of  the  skull  is  broad  and  short,  and  is  highest  near  the 
crown. 

When  the  islands  were  first  visited,  the  natives  were  represented  as 
ferocious  and  treacherous.  This  arose  in  a  great  degree  from  the 
bloody  conflict  they  had  with  the  boats  of  La  Perouse's  squadron; 
and  the  opinion  was  kept  up  by  the  just  resentment  they  in  some  cases 
manifested  for  wrongs  committed  on  them  by  lawless  visitors.  The 
instance  of  Opotuno,  however,  shows  that  this  idea  of  their  character 
is  not  entirely  without  foundation.  Viewed  in  a  more  favourable 
light,  they  are,  as  we  found  them,  kind,  good-humoured,  intelligent, 
fond  of  amusements,  desirous  of  pleasing,  and  very  hospitable.  Both 
sexes  show  great  kindness  and  love  for  their  children,  and  age  is  so 
much  respected  that  only  old  men  are  admitted  to  council.  As  a 
shade  on  this  picture,  they  are  indolent,  covetous,  fickle,  deceitful,  and 
little  reliance  can  be  placed  upon  them.  To  illustrate  these  features 
of  their  character :  the  first  question  asked  when  a  chief  receives  a 
visitor  is,  "  What  present  will  you  take?"  for  they  consider  it  incum- 
bent upon  them  to  bestow  some  token  of  regard,  and  a  neglect  to  offer 
it  would  be  indecorous.  This  custom  was  always  complied  with, 
when  any  of  our  officers  visited  them,  and  although  it  was  evident 
they  did  not  wish  to  part  with  any  thing  valuable,  their  choicest 
possessions  were  exhibited  as  if  for  the  choice  of  the  stranger.  On 
the  refusal  of  their  offered  presents,  great  joy  was  always  to  be  ob- 
served in  their  countenance  and  manner,  showing  that  they  rejoiced  in 
an  escape  from  loss,  while  they  had  at  the  same  time  performed  the 
prescribed  rites  of  hospitality.  This  risk  being  over,  they  were  too 
happy  to  supply  us  with  cocoa-nuts  and  fruits.  In  spite,  however,  of 


SAMOAN    GROUP.  127 

the  apparent  liberality  with  which  these  were  furnished,  they  do  it  in 
expectation  of  a  full  return.  In  pursuance  of  this  hospitality,  it  is  the 
custom  when  a  stranger  passes  through  a  village  without  showing  an 
intention  to  stop,  to  follow  him  and  offer  food. 

The  Samoans  are  usually  very  inquisitive,  and  it  was  amusing  to 
excite  their  curiosity.  Among  other  things  mentioned  for  the  purpose 
was,  that  white  men  often  wore  false  teeth  and  wigs.  The  latter 
practice  in  particular  seemed  strange  to  them,  and  they  called  it 
"  thatching  the  head."  A  terrestrial  globe  was  also  shown  to  some  of 
them,  whereon  the  position  of  their  islands  and  their  small  relative 
importance  was  pointed  out.  This  excited  great  surprise,  for  until 
within  a  few  years  they  had  no  idea  that  there  was  any  country  except 
their  own. 

If  the  chiefs  are  liberal  in  their  tenders  of  presents  to  their  visitors, 
they  on  the  other  hand  do  not  hesitate  to  ask  for  whatever  they  see. 
They  may,  in  fact,  be  styled  sturdy  beggars.  One  of  the  most 
persevering  in  his  mendicancy,  was  no  less  a  person  than  Vavasa, 
the  proud  and  overbearing  chief  of  Manono.  They  usually  began 
with  begging  from  the  humblest  individual,  and  ended  with  the  highest ; 
and  when  they  had  obtained  all  they  could,  would  go  over  the  side  of 
the  ship  ridiculing  our  folly  for  giving  so  much. 

Old  Pea,  by  way  of  excusing  himself  when  charged  with  being  a 
great  beggar,  said  he  did  not  keep  any  thing  he  got  for  himself;  that 
it  was  the  Samoan  fashion  always  to  ask  for  every  thing  he  saw.  It 
mattered  not  if  his  request  was  refused,  he  was  as  content  as  if  he 
obtained  what  he  desired,  but  he  said  he  should  have  blamed  himself 
if  he  had  not  asked. 

The  beneficial  effects  of  the  labours  of  the  missionaries  are  more 
evident  among  the  Samoans  than  at  Tahiti.  The  spread  of  the  gospel 
has  not  been  opposed  by  evil  habits  of  the  same  inveterate  character, 
and  the  natives  of  this  group  have  been  more  easily  reclaimed  from 
their  vices  than  those  of  the  Society  Islands.  The  greatest  obstacle  to 
the  success  of  the  missionaries  has  arisen  from  the  presence  of  a  few 
abandoned  white  men,  who  attach  themselves  to  the  heathen  chiefs. 
Their  opposition,  although  injurious  to  the  missionary  cause,  yields 
little  benefit  to  themselves,  for  of  every  thing  they  acquire,  the  chief 
under  whose  protection  they  are,  takes  half;  and  although  no  opposition 
is  ever  made  to  their  departure  from  the  islands,  they  are  not  permitted 
to  take  any  thing  with  them.  The  vices  of  these  men  excite  the 
disgust  of  the  more  well-disposed  of  the  natives,  who  often  express  their 
astonishment  at  their  ignorance  of  sacred  subjects,  and  ask  if  it  be  pos- 
sible that  such  men  can  have  been  brought  up  in  a  civilized  community. 


128  S  A  M  O  A  N    G  R  O  U  P. 

The  first  attempt  to  introduce  Christianity  is  related  to  have  occurred 
in  the  following  manner.  Some  years  before  the  arrival  of  the 
missionaries,  a  vessel  was  wrecked  upon  the  island  of  Upolu,  and  her 
cargo  seized  upon  by  the  natives,  many  of  whom,  even  to  the  present 
day,  regret  that  they  did  not  then  understand  what  riches  were  thus 
placed  at  their  disposal.  Their  mode  of  treating  the  prize  was  farcical 
in  the  extreme :  pipes  were  made  out  of  candlesticks,  clothing  was 
thrown  away  as  valueless,  and  many  injured  themselves  with  the  fire- 
arms. The  crew  were  well  treated,  and  fed  for  a  long  time,  although 
the  natives  were  greatly  astonished  at  the  quantities  of  pigs  required 
for  their  support,  and  entertained  fears  lest  they  should  breed  a  famine 
in  the  land.  The  captain  advised  his  crew  to  turn  missionaries,  and 
set  them  the  example  himself.  He  met  with  much  success,  and 
succeeded  in  building  several  churches,  until,  upon  the  arrival  of  the 
English  missionaries,  he  was  compelled  to  relinquish  his  assumed 
occupation.  It  is  not  probable  that  even  the  captain  was  deeply 
versed  in  religious  knowledge,  and  very  certain  that  the  crew  could 
not  have  been ;  but  their  success  appears  to  have  arisen  from  the  great 
veneration  with  which  white  men  were  at  first  regarded  by  the 
Samoans.  They  looked  upon  them  as  a  sort  of  spirit,  whom  it  was 
impossible  to  hurt  or  to  kill ;  and  the  ships  first  seen  oft*  the  coast  were 
considered  as  heavenly  messengers,  prognosticating  some  dreadful 
calamity.  The  bad  conduct  of  their  nautical  visitors  has  destroyed 
this  reverence,  and  foreigners  generally  no  longer  meet  the  kind 
welcome  they  formerly  received ;  this  observation  does  not  apply  to 
the  missionaries,  who  receive  all  the  honour  that  is  due  to  their  good 
intention,  of  which  the  natives  are  fully  aware. 

The  Wesleyan  missionaries,  and  those  of  the  British  Board,  reached 
these  islands  about  the  same  time,  or  the  former  were  perhaps  the  first 
to  arrive.  The  influence  of  the  Wesleyan  tenets,  and  the  number  of 
their  followers,  increased  rapidly  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Turner.  Difficulties,  however,  arose  between  the  two  parties 
of  missionaries,  which  were  finally  adjusted  between  the  two  boards  in 
London,  and  the  Wesleyans  abandoned  this  field  for  that  of  the  Feejee 
Group.  This  arrangement  was  amicably  made,  and  I  heard  of  only 
one  individual  on  either  side,  who  showed  an  uncharitable  spirit 
towards  his  fellow-labourers  of  the  other  party.  In  spite  of  the  removal 
of  the  Wesleyans,  there  is  still  a  large  number  of  the  natives  who 
adhere  to  the  tenets  and  forms  taught  them  by  Mr.  Turner,  and  still 
retain  a  strong  attachment  to  him. 

The  missionaries  were  from  the  very  first  taken  under  the  protection 
of  the  most  powerful  chiefs,  and  have  never  received  either  insult  or 


S  A  M  O  A  N    G  R  O  U  P.  129 

injury  from  any  of  the  natives.  They  have  established  schools  in 
many  of  the  villages,  but  have  found  a  difficulty  in  obtaining  native 
teachers. 

A  printing-press  has  also  been  established  at  Upolu,  and  rapid 
progress  is  making  in  the  translation  of  the  Scriptures,  of  which  some 
portions  are  already  published.  Many  publications  have  issued  from 
this  press :  among  them  I  regretted  to  observe  a  small  tract  containing 
a  violent  attack  upon  the  Roman  Catholics.  The  sight  of  this  sur- 
prised me,  as  it  contradicted  the  opinion  I  had  formed,  from  my 
intercourse  with  the  missionaries,  of  their  liberality  and  freedom  from 
intolerance.  The  sole  object  of  the  tract  was  to  prepossess  the  minds 
of  the  natives  against  the  missionaries  of  the  Papal  Church,  in  case 
they  should  visit  these  islands.  This  struck  me  as  being  at  variance 
with  the  first  principles  of  our  religion ;  and  I  could  not  refrain  from 
expressing  an  opinion  that  the  tract  was  calculated  to  do  much  harm. 

The  labours  of  the  English  missionaries  have  been  much  aided  by 
native  assistants,  who  have  been  both  industrious  and  successful;  and 
among  them,  those  of  Raratonga  have  the  merit  of  having  led  the 
way.  They  have  acted  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Williams,  and  he 
was  loud  in  praise  of  their  exertions.  I  witnessed  a  most  interesting 
meeting  of  these  native  missionaries,  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  nine 
from  their  number  to  accompany  Mr.  Williams  to  the  New  Hebrides, 
which  has  perhaps  left  a  more  deep  impression  on  my  mind  from  the 
melancholy  result  of  that  attempted  mission. 

Great  anxiety  was  exhibited  by  the  candidates  ;  and  I  have  never 
seen  a  more  proper  state  of  feeling,  or  listened  to  more  correct  senti- 
ments than  were  expressed  on  this  occasion.  All  appeared  devoted  to 
their  calling,  and  some  of  them  were  quite  eloquent.  After  the  choice 
was  announced,  those  upon  whom  it  had  fallen  manifested  a  cheerful 
but  not  unbecoming  triumph,  while  the  rejected  candidates  were 
evidently  grieved  and  disappointed.  The  former  were  now  invested 
with  new  apparel,  which,  although  no  more  than  a  striped  cotton 
shirt,*  gave  them  an  air  of  consequence  among  their  brethren,  which 
was  amusing  to  us  who  could  draw  comparisons  between  this  simple 
garment  and  prouder  kinds  of  canonicals. 

Each  of  the  resident  missionaries  now  delivered  a  long  harangue, 

*  This  garment  is  the  only  remuneration  that  they  receive  during  each  year  from  the 
missionary  funds,  and  with  it  they  feel  themselves  well  requited. 

I  have  to  acknowledge  the  obligation  under  which  I  feel  myself  to  the  missionaries,  both 
individually  and  collectively,  for  their  kindness  and  attention.  They  did  all  in  their  power 
to  further  the  objects  of  the  Expedition,  and  to  them  the  squadron  is  mainly  indebted  for  n 
great  part  of  the  facilities  we  enjoyed  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  manners,  habits,  and 
customs  of  the  Samoans. 

vor,.  n.  1? 


130 


S  A  M  O  A  N    G  R  O  U  P. 


which  was  replied  to  by  one  of  the  selected.  The  subjects  of  these 
discourses  were,  on  the  one  hand,  advice  in  reference  to  the  duties 
about  to  be  entered  upon,  and  on  the  other  a  recognition  of  the  weight 
of  the  responsibility  incurred  by  the  successful  candidates. 

Most,  if  not  all,  of  those  selected  for  the  new  mission  were  fine- 
looking  men,  and  they  were  chosen  out  of  many  applicants,  for  their 
steady  habits  and  strict  moral  conduct.  The  term  of  their  engage- 
ment on  the  new  duty  was  three  years,  after  which  they  were  to  return 
to  their  wives  and  children,  who  were  not  to  accompany  them. 

The  extent  and  influence  of  the  labours  of  the  missionaries  may  be 
best  understood  by  a  comparison  between  the  whole  population  of  the 
islands,  with  the  numbers  of  those  who  have  embraced  Christianity, 
and  attend  the  schools. 

The  entire  population  of  the  group  is  estimated  at  56,600,  of  whom 
14,850  have  embraced  Christianity,  and  12,300  attend  the  schools. 
These  numbers  are  thus  distributed  : 


PROFESSORS  OF 

ISLANDS. 

POPULATION. 

PUPILS. 

CHRISTIANITY. 

Eastern  Group     .     . 

2,000 

150 

150 

Tutuila  

8000 

2,200 

1,900 

Upolu     

25000 

8000 

6,200 

Savaii     

20,000 

4,000 

3,700 

Manono  

1,100 

400 

230 

Apolima      .... 

500 

100 

120 

Total, 

56,600 

14,850 

12,300 

The  whole  number  of  foreign  missionaries  is  eleven,  of  whom  one 
resides  in  Tutuila,  six  in  Upolu,  three  in  Savaii,  and  one  in  Manono. 

The  number  of  native  teachers  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight,  of 
whom  five  are  in  the  Eastern  Group,  thirty-one  in  Tutuila,  fifty  in 
Upolu,  thirty-six  in  Savaii,  twelve  in  Manono,  and  four  in  Apolima. 

Besides  those  counted  as  having  actually  embraced  Christianity,  it 
is  said  that  two-thirds  of  the  whole  population  belong  to  the  Christian 
party. 

Of  those  who  attend  the  schools,  about  ten  thousand  read,  and  this 
newly  introduced  habit  has  of  course  made  a  very  great  change  in  the 
habits  of  a  majority  of  the  people,  but  the  number  of  heathen  still  left 
is  sufficient  to  furnish  an  idea  of  their  original  manners  and  customs, 


SAMO  AN    GROUP.  131 

which  will  in  a  few  years  be  either  entirely  lost,  or  so  modified  by  the 
spread  of  the  gospel  as  to  change  their  character  entirely.  The 
rapidity  with  which  this  change  is  going  on,  rendered  it  desirable  to 
obtain  as  much  information  as  possible  in  relation  to  the  pristine 
manners  of  this  people. 

As  respects  their  ancient  religion,  we  have  obtained  the  following 
particulars  of  the  heathens.  They  acknowledge  one  great  god,  whom 
they  call  Tangaloa-lagi,  but  pay  less  worship  to  him  than  to  their  war- 
gods,  Tamafaiga,  Sinleo,  and  Onafanua.  The  first  entices  them  to 
war,  the  second  leads  them  to  it,  and  the  third  is  a  female  goddess, 
who  encourages  them  to  fight. 

Mafuie  is  their  god  of  earthquakes,  who  was  deemed  to  possess 
great  power,  but  has,  according  to  the  Samoans,  lost  much  of  it. 
The  way  in  -which  they  say  this  occurred  is  as  follows:  One  Talago, 
who  possessed  a  charm  capable  of  causing  the  earth  to  divide,  coming 
to  a  well-known  spot,  cried,  "  Rock,  divide !  I  am  Talago ;  come  to 
work !"  The  earth  separating  at  his  command,  he  went  down  to 
cultivate  his  taro-patch.  His  son,  whose  name  was  Tiitii,  became 
acquainted  with  the  charm,  and  watching  his  father,  saw  him  descend, 
and  the  earth  close  after  him.  At  the  same  spot,  Tiitii  said,  "  Rock, 
divide !  I  am  Talago ;  come  to  work !"  The  rock  did  not  open,  but 
on  repeating  the  words,  and  stamping  his  foot  violently,  the  earth 
separated,  and  he  descended.  Being  a  young  man,  he  made  a  great 
noise  and  bustle,  notwithstanding  the  advice  of  his  father  to  be  quiet, 
lest  Mafuie  would  hear  him.  The  son  then  asked,  "  Who  is  Mafuie, 
that  I  should  be  afraid  of  him  ?"  Observing  smoke  at  a  distance,  he 
inquired  the  cause  of  it.  Talago  said,  "It  is  Mafuie  heating  his  oven." 
Tiitii  determined  to  go  and  see,  notwithstanding  all  the  persuasions  of 
his  father,  and  met  Mafuie,  who  inquired  who  he  was.  "  Are  you  a 
planter  of  taro,  a  builder,  or  a  twister  of  ropes'?"  "I  am  a  twister  of 
ropes,"  said  Tiitii ;  "  give  me  your  arm,  and  I  shall  show  you."  So 
taking  the  arm  of  Mafuie,  he  twisted  it  off  in  a  moment.  Such  a 
practical  illustration  of  his  powers  soon  made  Mafuie  cry  out,  "  Na 
fia  ola,  na  fia  ola !" — I  desire  to  live,  I  desire  to  live  !  Tiitii  then  took 
pity  upon  him,  and  let  him  go.  The  natives,  on  feeling  an  earthquake, 
exclaim,  "  Thanks  that  Mafuie  has  but  one  arm !  if  he  had  two,  he 
would  shake  the  earth  to  pieces." 

The  god  Salefu  supports  the  earth.  They  have  likewise  Mesua, 
Faana,  Tinitini,  Lamamau,  who  are  gods  of  lightning,  rain,  whirl- 
winds, &c.  These  gods  are  said  to  reside  on  an  island  to  the  west- 
ward, from  which  quarter  their  bad  weather  usually  comes. 

They  had,  likewise,  many  inferior  gods,  who  watched  over  particular 


13^  S  A  M  O  AN    G  R  O  U  V. 

districts.  These  various  gods  owned  certain  animals,  reptiles,  fish, 
and  birds.  In  some  few  districts  inanimate  objects  were  worshipped, 
thus :  a  branch  of  bamboo,  with  a  bunch  of  cocoa-nut  fibres  tied  on 
the  top,  was  worshipped  in  Manono.  They  also  had  carved  blocks 
of  wood  and  stone  erected  in  memory  of  dead  chiefs,  which  they 
worshipped. 

The  account  they  give  of  the  creation  of  their  island  is  as  follows : 
Tangaloa,  their  great  god,  who  lives  in  the  sky,  sent  down  the  bird 
Tuli  (a  kind  of  snipe),  his  daughter,  to  look  what  was  below.  She 
reported  to  her  father  that  she  saw  nothing  but  sea.  Tangaloa  then 
rolled  a  stone  from  heaven,  which  became  the  island  of  Savaii,  and 
another  which  produced  Upolu,  and  \he  same  for  the  others. 

This  did  not  suit  Tuli,  who  returned  to  ask  for  inhabitants.  He  gave 
her  orders  to  plant  the  wild  vines  (fuefue),  which  after  growing  were 
ordered  by  him  to  be  pulled  up  and  thrown  into  heaps,  from  which 
worms  were  produced.  Then  it  was  desirable  that  they  should  become 
human.  Spirits  were  accordingly  sent  to  them  by  Tuli,  and  the  worms 
became  man  and  woman. 

Their  notions  of  a  future  existence  are  quite  vague.  They  believe, 
however,  in  a  happy  future  state,  where  every  thing  good  is  provided. 
Some  say  that  it  is  on  their  own  island,  others  on  distant  islands,  and 
for  the  chiefs  at  the  residence  of  the  gods  on  Pulotu,  an  island  to  the 
westward.  They  also  believe  that  the  spirit  goes  there  immediately 
after  death ;  that  in  these  places  it  never  rains  ;  that  they  eat  and  drink 
there  without  labour,  and  are  waited  upon  by  the  most  beautiful 
women,  who  are  always  young,  or  as  a  chief  expressed  it  to  one  of 
our  officers,  "  whose  breasts  never  hang  down." 

The  spirits,  according  to  their  belief,  often  come  down  to  wander 
about  at  night  around  their  former  dwellings  ;  some  spirits  are  believed 
to  die,  while  others  are  immortal ;  some  dwell  in  subterranean  abodes, 
and  are  eaten  by  the  gods.  Some  persons  believe  that  after  death  they 
become  "  aitus,"  or  inferior  gods. 

They  believed  in  many  omens,  which  were  carefully  watched.  If 
the  black  stork,  called  matuu,  flew  before  them  on  a  war  expedition,  in 
the  direction  they  were  going,  they  deemed  it  betokened  success ;  but 
if  in  any  other  direction,  it  was  an  ill  omen.  If  a  dim  moon,  or  very 
bright  starlight,  or  comet,  were  observed,  it  always  indicated  the  death 
of  a  chief;  and  a  rainbow  was  a  sign  of  war. 

The  squeaking  of  rats  was  an  unfortunate  omen.  Sneezing  was  also 
considered  unlucky ;  if  any  one  of  a  party  sneezed  on  a  journey,  their 
further  progress  was  postponed. 

I  was  told  that  the  Samoans  have  a  great  dread  of  being  abroad  in 


SAMOAN    GROUP.  133 

the  dark,  and  that  when  obliged  to  pass  about  their  villages  by  night, 
they  use  flambeaux  made  of  the  dried  stalks  of  the  cocoanut-leaf  to 
light  them  on  their  way.  This  fear  is  partly  owing  to  superstition, 
which  makes  them  fearful  of  encountering  some  spirit  or  aitu,  with 
which  their  imaginations  people  the  groves,  springs,  rocks,  trees,  &c. 
They  are  in  the  habit  of  occasionally  making  a  feast  for  the  king's 
aitu,  when  a  number  of  pigs  are  prepared,  and  a  quantity  of  taro,  fruit, 
&c.,  is  gathered.  The  portion  for  the  aitu  is  placed  near  his  supposed 
dwelling-place,  and  the  dependants  and  others  enjoy  themselves  on  the 
remainder. 

They  were  formerly  in  the  habit  of  presenting  their  first  fruits  to  the 
aitus  and  chiefs.  This  custom  still  continues  among  the  heathen,  but 
the  Christian  party  present  theirs  to  the  missionaries.  The  ceremony 
usually  takes  place  in  January  or  February.  In  drinking  ava,  the  first 
cup  was  always  presented  to  the  gods. 

There  is  an  account  of  a  large  lizard  which  dwells  on  the  south  side 
of  the  island,  and  is  worshipped  as  an  aitu.  The  description  given  of 
it  makes  it  two  fathoms  long  and  as  large  round  as  a  cocoa-nut  tree, 
with  huge  scales,  and  a  mouth  filled  with  sharp  teeth.  It  is  said  to 
dwell  in  a  stream  near  Safata,  into  which  the  natives  frequently  throw 
meat.  Some  of  them  declare  that  they  have  seen  him,  and  that  he  has 
dwelt  there  upwards  of  fifty  years. 

It  is  not  remarkable,  however,  that  they  should  have  this  tradition'; 
and  this  circumstance  affords  an  additional  proof  that  they  have  had 
frequent  intercourse  with  the  Tonga,  or  Friendly  Islands,  where  a 
similar  tradition  is  spoken  of  in  Mariner's  Tonga  Islands. 

Among  their  other  superstitions  is  that  of  a  malignant  spirit  that 
resides  in  the  vicinity  of  Apolima,  in  the  shape  of  an  enormous  eel,  of 
from  six  to  ten  fathoms  long,  and  large  in  proportion,  which  attacks 
canoes  and  drags  them  down. 

A  story  is  told  that  is  said  to  have  happened  only  a  few  years  ago. 
While  two  natives  of  Manono  were  swimming  across  the  channel  in 
the  reef,  they  were  drowned  in  the  sight  of  many  others ;  immediately 
a  large  canoe  was  manned,  and  wrent  in  quest  of  them ;  the  crew  of 
this  canoe  encountered  the  monster,  and  wounded  it.  The  canoe  was 
upset,  and  although  a  few  saved  themselves  by  swimming  to  the  shore, 
the  greater  part  of  them  were  destroyed.  When  asked  if  it  was  not  a 
shark,  (of  which  they  have  two  kinds,  the  tanifa,  or  great  white  shark, 
and  the  masi,  or  small  blue  one,)  they  replied,  it  was  a  monstrous  pasi, 
which  is  the  name  applied  to  the  murrena  or  conger  eel. 

Their  dances  and  other  amusements  are  in  a  great  degree  abolished, 
but  they  are  still  practised  in  the  heathen  villages,  and  even  the 


134  S  A  MO  AN    GROUP. 

Christian  women  may  still  be  induced  to  exhibit  the  former,  which 
they  call  siva.  The  mode  of  performing  it  differs  from  that  of  the 
Tahitians,  but  is  like  it  lascivious,  and  neither  of  them  would  be  called 
dances  in  our  sense  of  the  term.  The  dance  is  usually  performed  by 
young  girls,  who  stand  up  before  the  audience,  throwing  their  arms, 
legs,  feet,  and  hands,  in  numerous  strange  attitudes,  which  are  any 
thing  but  graceful.  The  others  who  are  present  sing  amusing  words, 
in  two  or  three  parts,  while  a  third  or  fourth  part  is  kept  up  in  a 
coarse  grunt  or  guttural  sound,  in  the  bass  clef.  The  words  are  com- 
prised in  short  sentences,  each  of  which  finishes  suddenly  with  a 
staccato  note,  and  a  violent  gesture.  The  music  of  one  of  the  dances 
at  Tutuila  was  as  follows : 


The  females,  unlike  those  of  Tahiti,  have  not  many  musical  voices 
among  them,  but,  in  common  with  other  uncivilized  races,  have  a 
perfect  knowledge  of  time. 

The  men,  on  the  contrary,  produce  round  rich  sounds,  rather  below 
tenor,  but  as  wild  as  nature  would  have  them  to  be. 

The  dance  of  the  girls  at  Upolu  consisted  entirely  of  motions  of  the 
body,  and  was  so  indelicate  as  to  produce  disgust.  The  chaunt  which 
accompanied  it  was  sung  with  a  high  voice,  and  three  or  four  women 
were  employed  in  beating  time  on  the  mats  with  short  sticks,  in  which 
most  of  the  spectators  joined  with  their  hands.  In  all  cases  they  kept 
time  with  the  greatest  accuracy. 

The  Samoan  drum  is  made  of  a  part  of  a  tree,  hollowed  out ;  they 
have  also  an  instrument,  formed  of  a  loose  slat  fitted  into  a  board,  on 
which  they  beat  time  with  two  sticks.  Their  flute,  if  it  may  be  so 
called,  is  made  of  bamboo,  as  are  also  their  pipes,  which  resemble  those 
of  Pan. 

The  dances  of  the  men  are  by  no  means  indecorous.  Those  who 
perform  them  vary  in  number  from  two  to  a  dozen,  and  are  divided 
into  two  parties.  These  parties  alternately  advance  and  retreat, 
which  gives  an  appearance  of  animation.  Clapping  their  hands, 
swinging  them  to  and  fro,  or  clasping  them  over  their  heads,  they 
follow  each  other  in  a  circle,  leaping  up  and  down,  and  turning 
suddenly  around,  keeping  time  to  the  music.  The  dances  continue 
a  considerable  time,  and  end  with  a  sudden  clap  of  the  hands  and  a 
simultaneous  shout. 


136  S  A  MO  A  N    G  R  O  UP. 

"  Lafo  Ktupa"  is  also  played  by  two  persons,  who  place  about  fifty 
beans  of  the  Mimosa  scandium  before  them ;  then  taking  up  four  at  a 
time,  they  throw  them  up  in  the  air,  and  catch  them  on  the  back  of 
the  hand ;  the  player  who  catches  a  hundred  soonest  is  the  winner. 

Tuae-fua:  this  is  played  by  five  or  six  persons.  It  resembles  the 
sport  of  the  Chinese  jugglers  with  iron  balls.  The  first  player  some- 
times takes  as  many  as  eight  oranges,  throwing  them  successively  into 
the  air,  and  endeavours  to  keep  the  whole  in  motion  at  once.  They 
are  very  dexterous  at  this :  if  they  miss  three  times,  the  game  is  lost. 

Tui-muri  affords  the  natives  much  amusement.  Any  number  of 
persons  may  play  at  it.  They  seat  themselves  in  a  circle,  and  divide 
into  two  parties.  An  orange  is  suspended  from  above,  about  two  feet 
from  the  ground,  and  each  person  is  supplied  with  a  small  sharp- 
pointed  stick.  The  orange  is  swung  round,  and  as  it  passes,  each  one 
endeavours  to  pierce  it,  some  with  great  eagerness,  others  quite  calmly, 
and  others  again  with  a  wary  coolness,  all  of  which  affords  much 
amusement  to  the  bystanders.  The  party  wins  who  first  succeeds  in 
fairly  hitting  the  orange  fifty  times. 

It  is  played  for  mats,  trinkets,  &c.,  but  more  generally  for  a  baked 
pig,  which  is  eaten  when  the  play  is  over. 

Litia :  this  is  a  general  sport,  sometimes  whole  villages  playing 
against  each  other ;  it  is  in  fact  an  exercise  in  spear-throwing.  Two 
parties  furnish  themselves  with  light  sticks  of  the  Hibiscus  tiliaceus, 
about  eight  or  ten  feet  long  and  as  thick  as  a  finger.  The  bark  is 
stripped  off,  which  makes  them  very  light.  The  two  parties  arrange 
themselves  in  a  line,  and  strive  to  throw  these  as  far  as  possible ;  the 
party  which  succeeds  in  throwing  fifty  the  farthest  wins  the  game. 
The  usual  distance  to  which  they  are  thrown  is  about  forty  yards,  and 
one  would  conceive  it  almost  impossible  for  them  to  be  thrown  so  far. 
A  grand  feast  usually  terminates  the  sport,  which  the  losing  party 
pays  for. 

"Lafe,"  is  a  game  confined  to  the  chiefs,  who  play  it  for  pastime. 
Four  persons  sit  at  the  corners  of  a  mat,  ten  or  twelve  feet  long,  in 
whose  centre  is  placed  another  of  ten  inches  square ;  the  persons  at 
opposite  corners  are  partners ;  each  party  is  provided  with  five  circular 
pieces  of  cocoa-nut  shells,  from  two  inches  in  diameter  to  half  a  cocoa- 
nut.  The  first  player  lays  his  smallest  piece  on  the  little  mat,  and  his 
opponent  tries  to  knock  it  off,  and  leave  his  own  in  its  place.  Each  in 
his  turn  endeavours  to  knock  his  opponent's  pieces  off.  The  party 
which  first  succeeds  in  knocking  its  opponent's  pieces  off  one  hundred 
times,  wins  the  game.  The  pieces  of  cocoa-nut  are  finely  polished  and 
carved  with  a  varietv  of  devices. 


SAMOAN    GROUP. 


137 


Sham  club-fights  and  wrestling-matches  are  common,  and  frequently 
end  in  broken  heads,  limbs,  and  teeth  knocked  out. 


An  odd  amusement  of  the  natives  was  seen  in  the  forest,  in  one  of 
the  clearings  near  one  of  the  heathen  villages,  and  at  a  short  distance 
from  Apia,  (the  vignette  gives  a  good  idea  of  it.)  A  fine  large  tree 
had  been  lopt  of  its  branches  (except  at  the  very  top),  for  a  mast; 
around  this  a  framework  of  timber,  after  the  model  of  a  vessel,  was 
constructed;  all  the  timbers  were  carefully  fastened  together  with 
sennit,  and  with  the  requisite  curvature ;  from  the  bow  a  large  and 
long  piece  of  timber  projected,  and  at  the  stern  a  rudder  was  contrived, 
with  its  tiller ;  but  instead  of  its  ordinary  movements  as  with  us,  it  was 
intended  to  act  vertically,  in  the  way  to  which  they  are  accustomed 
in  managing  or  steering  their  large  canoes  with  an  oar;  vines  and 
creepers  were  used  for  the  rigging ;  ballast  had  likewise  been  placed  in 
the  hold. 

This  afforded  them  great  amusement,  and  showed  an  ingenuity  in 
the  construction  of  this  Papalangi  ship,  as  they  called  it,  which  had 
cost  them  much  time  and  labour. 

There  is  no  ceremony  at  births,  or  indeed  any  inconvenience.  The 
mother  generally  proceeds  immediately  to  the  spring,  bathes  and 
washes  her  infant,  and  at  the  same  time  her  usual  occupations  are 
resumed.  The  naming  of  the  child  frequently  takes  place  some  time 

VOL.   II.  18 


138  SAMOAN    GROUP. 

before  its  birth,  for  sex  makes  no  difference  in  the  names,  which  are 
given  indiscriminately  to  males  and  females. 

The  mothers  often  suckle  their  children  until  they  are  six  years  old ; 
and  I  was  told  of  an  instance  where  a  woman  gave  nourishment  to 
three  children  of  different  ages  at  once,  the  eldest  removing  the 
youngest  sometimes  by  force  from  the  mother's  breast. 

It  is  their  practice  to  wash  the  children  frequently  in  the  fresh-water 
streams. 

When  a  native  wishes  to  get  a  wife,  the  consent  of  the  chief  is  first 
obtained.  Then  he  takes  a  basket  of  bread-fruit,  and  offers  it  to  the 
girl  of  his  choice.  His  suit  is  considered  as  accepted  if  she  partakes 
of  it.  He  must  then  pay  her  parents  a  certain  price  for  her,  which 
varies  with  the  station  and  ability  of  the  parties.  A  chief's  daughter  is 
valued  high,  viz.,  at  half  a  dozen  hatchets  and  as  many  fathoms  of  cloth. 

Another  mode  of  courtship  is  to  go  to  the  house  of  the  object  of 
attachment  or  desire,  and  be  entertained.  If  the  family  show  a  friendly 
feeling  towards  the  young  man  and  eat  with  him,  his  addresses  are 
favourably  received.  The  formal  offer  is  made  by  a  large  present  to 
the  family  of  the  female,  which  being  accepted,  the  match  is  made,  and 
if  refused,  the  courtship  is  at  an  end.  The  parents  expect  their  children 
to  abide  by  their  decision.  The  "  Malo"  party  have  been  in  the  habit 
of  taking  wives  from  their  conquered  enemies  when  they  thought 
proper.  At  a  marriage  ceremony  a  great  feast  is  made,  particularly 
if  it  be  a  chiefs. 

A  man  is  at  liberty  to  repudiate  his  wife  and  marry  again  on  certain 
conditions,  but  the  woman  cannot  leave  her  husband  without  his 
consent. 

Adultery  was  formerly  punished  with  death,  and  is  very  seldom 
committed.  Among  single  women,  intercourse  with  a  Samoan  before 
marriage,  is  a  reproach,  but  not  with  transient  foreigners. 

It  is  a  common  practice  for  parents  to  make  a  present  of  their 
children  to  chiefs  or  others,  who  adopt  the  child  as  their  own,  and 
treat  it  ever  after  as  such.  After  it  is  grown  up,  one-half  of  its  earn- 
ings goes  to  its  adopted  parent.  This  custom  gives  the  chiefs  many 
adopted  children  of  both  sexes,  who  continue  to  live  with  them,  and 
are  in  all  respects  treated  as  their  own ;  and  spreads  their  connexions 
far  and  wide. 

In  their  burials  at  Upolu,  they  have  but  little  ceremony.  The  body 
is  enveloped  in  many  folds  of  tapa,  and  deposited,  as  has  already  been 
described  at  Tutuila,  with  the  ti  planted  around.  No  utensils,  arms, 
&c.,  are  deposited  with  the  bodies;  for,  according  to  their  belief,  they 
have  these  things  provided  for  them  in  their  Elysium.  A  feast  is  made 


SAMOAN    GROUP.  139 

for  the  attendants,  consisting  of  pigs,  taro,  bread-fruit,  &c. ;  presents 
are  made  by  all  the  relatives  to  the  family  of  the  deceased,  and  if  the 
family  can  afford  it,  a  small  canoe  is  procured  for  a  coffin.  After  the 
body  has  lain  in  the  grave  some  time,  they  take  up  the  skull  and  place 
it  in  a  box  in  their  houses.  The  reason  assigned  for  this  is  to  prevent 
their  enemies  from  possessing  themselves  of  it,  for  it  was  a  custom  in 
their  wars  to  violate  the  sanctity  of  the  grave.  We  heard  that  a  few 
of  the  bodies  of  chiefs  had  been  preserved  by  oil  and  heat ;  and  the 
missionaries  informed  me  that  they  had  seen  the  bodies  of  those  who 
died  thirty  or  forty  years  before,  preserved  in  this  manner. 

Their  mode  of  showing  their  grief  is  to  burn  themselves  to  blisters, 
(forming  indelible  marks,)  with  little  rolls  of  twisted  tapa,  which,  on 
being  lighted,  soon  produced  a  coal.  They  also  scratch  their  bodies. 
The  females  are  said  (in  token  of  affliction  for  deceased  friends)  to 
have  pricked  holes  in  the  corpse,  and  sucked  out  the  fluids.  All  these 
practices  may  be  now  said  to  be  passing  away,  and  are  almost 
obliterated. 

There  is  already  a  very  great  difference,  not  only  in  dress  but  in 
appearance,  between  those  who  have  adopted  Christianity,  and  those 
who  adhere  to  heathenism.  The  latter  have  a  wild  look,  to  which 
their  long  hair,  tied  in  a  bunch  behind,  adds  not  a  little ;  and  when 
going  to  war  they  let  it  hang  down  in  wild  confusion,  which  increases 
their  savage  appearance. 


DEVIL  MAN. 


On  the  other  hand,  the  Christians  crop  their  hair  short, — a  fashion 
which  was  introduced  by  the  missionaries. 

The  hair  of  the  children  is  cropped  close,  except  a  lock  on  each 
side  of  the  head.  The  manners  of  the  people  in  the  Christian  and 


140  SAMOAN    GROUP. 

heathen  villages  are  as  different  as  their  appearance.  In  the  latter 
no  schools  are  seen,  nor  any  of  the  incipient  marks  of  civilization. 
Their  reception  of  strangers  in  the  Christian  villages  is  always  kind 
and  hospitable,  although,  as  has  been  stated,  a  return  is  looked  for. 
Among  the  heathen,  the  manner  of  reception  cannot  be  counted  upon 
with  certainty,  for  they  at  one  time  welcome  their  visitors  with  cor- 
diality, and  at  another  are  rude,  insolent,  and  anxious  to  obtain  all  the 
strangers  possess.  When  in  good  humour,  they  entertain  their  guests 
with  the  lascivious  dances  we  have  described,  performed  by  native 
girls.  Their  whole  manner  and  conduct  are  so  different  from  those 
of  villages  within  a  short  distance  of  them,  that  the  effect  produced 
on  the  latter  by  the  instruction  of  the  missionaries,  appears  almost 
miraculous. 

In  the  heathen  villages  the  dress  of  the  Samoans  is  to  be  seen  in 
its  primitive  simplicity.  It  is  no  more  than  the  titi,  which  is  a  short 
apron  and  girdle  of  the  leaves  of  the  ti  (Dracajna),  tied  around  the 
loins  and  falling  down  to  the  thighs.  The  women  besmear  themselves 
with  cocoa-nut  oil  mixed  with  turmeric,  which  gives  them  a  shining 
yellow  tint,  that  is  considered  as  a  beauty  ;  on  each  breast  is  a  spot  of 
reddish  brown,  of  a  singular  shape,  and  of  various  sizes,  from  that  of 
a  dollar  to  that  of  a  dessert-plate.  They  do  not  show  the  least  sign  of 
feminine  bashfulness,  while  those  of  the  Christian  villages  cover  their 
bosoms,  and  exhibit  as  much  modesty  as  those  of  any  country. 


During  the  last  ten  years  the  dress  of  the  natives  has  undergone 
much  change;  the  titi  has  been  increased  in  length,  and  extends  all 
round  the  body ;  it  has  a  neat  and  pretty  effect  when  first  put  on,  but 
requires  renewing  often,  as  the  leaves  wilt  in  a  few  days ;  this  garment 


SA  MOAN    GROUP.  j41 

is  well  adapted  to  the  climate,  being  cool,  and  the  necessity  of  frequent 
change  insures  cleanliness. 

The  Wesleyan  missionaries  from  the  Friendly  Islands  have  intro- 
duced the  siapo,  of  Tonga,  which  has  now  come  into  common  use.  It 
is  soft,  pliable,  and  not  glazed,  and  is  principally  used  as  a  wrapper, 
after  the  manner  of  the  pareu  of  the  Tahiti  Islanders.  A  piece  of 
cotton  cloth  is  usually  worn  by  the  chiefs  as  a  siapo. 

The  maro  is  worn  when  engaged  in  active  exercise,  or  in  war,  as 
being  less  cumbrous.  The  women  often  wear  a  beautifully  white 
shaggy  mat  (ie  sina),  hanging  from  the  neck  to  the  feet.  It  is  woven 
by  hand  from  the  fine  threads  of  the  hibiscus ;  they  also  sometimes 
wear  wrappers  of  the  siapo  form,  and  the  tiputa,  a  kind  of  poncho,  of 
the  same  material,  after  the  old  fashion  of  the  Tahitians,  which  is 
more  becoming  than  the  loose  gown  introduced  into  that  island  by  the 
missionaries. 

There  is  another  kind  of  mat,  of  very  fine  texture,  worn  on  great 
occasions,  and  used  in  their  dances  as  a  kind  of  cloak.  It  is  orna- 
mented with  a  border  of  red  feathers.  This  is  the  most  valuable 
property  they  possess,  for  they  cost  much  pains  to  the  manufacturers, 
and  are  often  a  year  or  eighteen  months  in  their  hands. 

In  the  way  of  ornaments  they  use  but  few.  The  men  usually  wear 
a  shell  (the  ovula)  suspended  around  the  neck  by  a  string. 

Their  hair  formerly  claimed  much  of  their  attention,  as  it  does  still 
that  of  the  heathen,  who,  as  has  been  seen,  wear  it  long  and  have  it 
nicely  combed  and  twisted  up  in  a  knot  on  the  top  of  the  head.  The 
females  frequently  used  to  wear  a  wreath  of  flowers,  which  gave  them 
a  picturesque  and  pleasant  appearance ;  but  the  use  of  flowers  as  orna- 
ments has  been  interdicted  by  the  missionary  teachers. 

Tattooing,  if  not  in  reality,  at  least  in  appear- 
ance, may  be  said  to  form  a  part  of  dress.  It  is 
performed  by  persons  who  make  it  a  regular 
business.  The  age  at  which  it  takes  place  is 
from  fourteen  to  eighteen,  and  is  usually  con- 
sidered the  initiation  to  manhood.  The  usual 
colouring  matter  is  obtained  from  the  kernel  of 
the  candle-nut.  Tattooing  is  here  called  ta4a- 
tau,  and  is  tastefully  drawn.  The  natives  are 
very  fond  of  it.  It  is  expensive  to  the  family, 
for  the  operator  always  receives  a  high  price 
for  his  labour,  consisting  of  the  finest  mats, 
siapo,  and  other  property,  as  agreed  upon 
before  the  operation  is  begun.  The  instrument 


142  SAMOAN    GROUP. 

used  is  made  of  bone,  sharp  like  the  teeth  of  a  comb,  and  requires  but 
a  slight  blow  to  enter  the  skin.  The  part  tattooed  on  the  males  is  from 
the  loins  to  the  thighs,  but  the  women  have  only  a  few  lines  on  their 
hands  and  bodies. 

The  articles  of  which  their  dress  is  composed  are  manufactured  by 
the  females,  who  are  exceedingly  industrious.  The  common  cloth  or 
tapa  is  made  of  the  inner  bark  of  the  paper-mulberry,  which  is  culti- 
vated for  the  purpose  in  nurseries.  It  is  cut  when  the  stem  is  about  one 
and  a  half  inches  in  diameter ;  the  inner  bark  is  separated  and  washed 
in  water,  which  deprives  it  of  some  of  its  gum  ;  it  is  then  beaten  until 
the  adhesion  of  the  fibres  forms  many  of  the  strips  into  a  single  mass. 
The  mallet  used  for  this  purpose  is  about  two  inches  square,  and  about 
fourteen  inches  long,  with  a  handle  at  one  end ;  two  of  its  faces  are 
grooved  and  the  other  two  smooth ;  the  bark  is  laid  on  a  board,  and 
struck  with  the  mallet  in  a  direction  at  right  angles  with  its  fibres ;  the 
grooved  sides  are  used  to  spread  out  the  fibres,  and  the  smooth  ones  to 
knit  them  together.  The  grooves  also  give  a  thready  appearance  to 
the  surface. 

This  method  differs  from  that  practised  at  Tahiti,  where  the  bark  is 
beaten  with  a  smaller  mallet,  upon  a  spring-board ;  and  the  tapa  made 
here  is  of  inferior  quality.  The  tapa  is  often  printed  with  colours  in 
patterns.  This  is  performed  in  a  mode  similar  to  that  practised  in 
Europe  before  the  introduction  of  copper  rollers.  Instead  of  engraved 
blocks,  they  form  tablets,  about  as  thick  as  binder's  boards,  of  pieces 
of  large  cocoa-nut  leaves,  by  sewing  them  together.  One  side  of  the 
tablet  is  kept  smooth  and  even,  and  upon  this  cocoa-nut  fibres  are 
sewed  so  as  to  form  the  required  pattern,  which  is  of  course  raised 
upon  the  surface  of  the  tablet.  These  tablets  are  wet  with  a  piece  of 
cloth  well  soaked  in  the  dye,  after  which  the  tapa,  which  for  this  pur- 
pose is  well  bleached  and  beautifully  white,  is  laid  upon  them  and 
pressed  into  close  contact.  The  dye  is  made  from  herbs  and  roots,  and 
is  of  various  colours. 

The  women  also  manufacture  the  mats.  Some  of  these  have  been 
mentioned  in  describing  the  dress  of  the  natives :  the  finest  kinds  are 
made  of  the  inner  bark  of  the  paper-mulberry  ;  those  of  coarser  texture 
of  the  leaves  of  the  pandanus,  which  are  nicely  scraped  and  bleached. 
The  mats  are  all  made  by  hand,  and  by  interlacing  the  fibres ;  one  of 
the  finest  description  will  require  the  industrious  labour  of  a  year. 

Among  the  mats  are  some  of  as  fine  a  texture  and  as  soft  as  if  made 
of  cotton.  These  are  rarely  or  never  manufactured  at  present,  and  are 
solely  possessed  by  the  chiefs,  in  whose  family  they  are  handed  down 
from  father  to  son,  as  heir-looms.  They  are  considered  as  their 


SAMOAN    GROUP. 


143 


choicest  treasures,  and  are  so  much  coveted,  that  wars  have  been 
made  to  obtain  possession  of  them.  For  the  latter  reason  they  are 
called  Fala-taua. 

There  are  several  distinct  trades  among  the  men  besides  that  of 
tattooing ;  among  the  most  esteemed  is  that  of  canoe-building,  in  which 
there  is  no  little  skill  displayed. 

The  usual  fishing-canoe  is  made  of  a  single  tree,  with  a  small  out- 
rigger to  balance  it.  They  have  no  large  double  canoes,  such  as  are 
seen  in  Tonga  and  Feejee. 

The  largest  canoes  are  from  thirty  to  sixty  feet  long,  and  capable  of 
carrying  from  ten  to  twelve  persons.  They  are  formed  of  several 
pieces  of  plank,  fastened  together  with  sennit.  These  pieces  are  of  no 
regular  size  or  shape.  On  the  edge  of  each  plank  is  a  ledge  or  pro- 
jection, which  serves  to  attach  the  sennit,  and  to  connect  and 
bind  it  closely  to  the  adjoining  one.  It  is  surprising  to  see  the 
labour  bestowed  on  uniting  so  many  small  pieces,  where  large 
and  good  planks  might  be  obtained.  Before  the  pieces  are 
joined,  the  gum  from  the  bark  of  the  bread-fruit  tree  is  used 
to  cement  them  close  and  prevent  leakage.  These  canoes 
retain  their  form  much  more  truly  than  one  would  have  sup- 
posed, and  I  saw  few  whose  original  model  had  been  impaired 
by  service.  On  the  outside,  the  pieces  are  s"o  closely  fitted  as 
frequently  to  require  close  examination  before  the  seams  can 
be  detected.  This  perfection  of  workmanship  is  astonishing  to 
those  who  see  the  tools  with  which  it  is  executed.  They  are 
now  made  of  no  more  than  a  piece  of  iron  tied  to  a  stick,  and  used  as 
an  adze.  This,  with  a  gimlet,  is  all  they  have,  and  before  they  obtained 
these  iron  tools,  they  used  adzes  made  of  hard  stone  or  fish-bones. 


SAMOAN  CANOE. 


These  canoes  are  built  with  a  deck  forward  and  aft.     They  are  long 
and  narrow,  and  their  shape  is  elegant.    They  are  paddled  by  natives, 


144  SAMOAN    GROUP. 

who  sit  two  abreast,  and  are  guided  by  a  steersman.  The  seat  of 
honour  is  on  the  forward  deck,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  row  of  pegs, 
to  which  the  large  white  ovula  shell  is  attached  by  way  of  ornament. 
The  natives  find  no  difficulty  in  occupying  this  place,  as  they  manage 
to  sit  in  almost  any  position  with  ease  to  themselves ;  but  a  stranger 
who  attempts  it,  and  is  for  any  time  confined  to  one  of  these  places  of 
honour,  will  repent  of  the  distinction  he  enjoys  before  many  minutes  are 
over.  One  of  our  gentlemen  was  treated  with  this  distinction,  and  will 
long  recollect  the  words  of  the  song  they  sing. 

"  Lelei  tusilava  le  tau  mua, 
Leango  tusilava  le  tau  muri." 

"  Good  above  all  is  the  part  before, 
Bad  above  all  is  the  part  behind." 

The  uneasiness,  from  his  account,  does  not  only  proceed  from  the 
small  place  left  to  sit  upon,  but  also  from  the  constant  apprehension  of 
being  precipitated  into  the  sea.  This  faa  Samoa,  or  Samoan  fashion, 
is  any  thing  but  agreeable. 

Having  both  a  prow  and  stern,  these  canoes  cannot  be  manoeuvred 
without  tacking;  consequently  the  out-rigger,  that  constitutes  their 
safety,  is,  in  using  their  sail,  alternately  to  leeward  and  windward,  and 
does  not,  when  to  leeward,  add  much  to  the  stability  of  the  canoe. 
They  carry  less  sail  than  the  canoes  of  the  other  natives  of  Polynesia, 
and  to  guard  against  the  danger  of  upsetting,  the  natives  rig  a  sprit 
or  boom  (suati),  projecting  from  the  opposite  side  to  that  on  which  the 
out-rigger  is  fitted.  This  boom  is  secured  with  guys  to  the  top  of  the 
mast.  When  the  wind  blows  fresh,  some  of  the  men  go  out  upon  it, 
and  thus  balance  or  counteract  the  force  of  the  wind.  Those  on  the 
other  side  of  the  canoe  are  kept  ready  to  go  out  on  the  out-rigger  when 
that  becomes  necessary.  The  sail  is  made  of  a  mat,  of  a  triangular 
shape,  with  its  apex  below :  some  of  these  are  ten  feet  high. 

None  of  the  canoes  we  saw  at  the  Samoan  Group  are  calculated  for 
long  voyages.  Those  used  in  their  intercourse  with  the  Tonga  Islands, 
are  the  large  double  Feejee  canoe,  of  which  I  shall  speak  when  I  treat 
of  those  islanders. 

In  their  trips  from  town  to  town,  they  are  generally  on  parties  of 
pleasure,  termed  malanga,  and  are  frequently  to  be  met  with  singing 
their  boat-songs. 

These  songs  have  but  little  variety,  are  destitute  of  melody,  and 
have  small  pretensions  to  harmony.  They  consist,  for  the  most  part, 
of  two  short  strains,  repeated  alternately,  the  first  by  a  single  indi- 
vidual, and  the  second  by  several.  Their  voices  are  loud,  and  have 


SAMOAN    GROUP. 


145 


generally  a  tenor  character ;  the  strains  are  mostly  in  the  minor  scale, 
and  sung  in  the  key  of  two  or  three  flats. 

The  following  boat-songs  wiH  give  an  idea  of  them : 


First  Voice. 


--^-ttzzLtfizz? 

Fo  -  fa  -  e. 


Another : 

First  Voice. 


na  -  agi        le         foe 


na     ogi  -  le. 


Tu    -    te      ta    -  ma  -  i         le        fou      aue 
Second  Voice. 


Au  ta  -  na  -  lo        fia 


"  Cook*  tells  you  pull  away, 
I  will  do  so,  and  so  must  you." 

The  work  in  which  the  Samoans  show  their  greatest  ingenuity,  is  in 
the  construction  of  their  native  houses,  and  particularly  of  their  fale- 
teles  or  council-houses,  some  of  which  are  of  large  dimensions.  They 
are  built  of  the  wood  of  the  bread-fruit  tree,  and  there  are  two  modes 
in  use,  their  own,  and  that  borrowed  from  the  Friendly  Islands.  The 
true  Samoan  house  is  slightly  oval ;  those  of  the  Friendly  Islands  are 
oblong.  They  may  be  said  to  consist  of  three  parts,  the  centre  and 
two  ends;  the  former  is  erected  first.  For  this  purpose  the  three 
centre  posts,  which  are  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  high,  are  usually 
first  raised ;  on  these  rests  the  ridge-pole.  A  staging  or  scaffolding  is 
now  erected,  nearly  in  the  form  of  the  roof,  which  serves  for  ladders 
and  to  support  the  roof  temporarily.  The  roof  is  commenced  at  the 

*  All  the  natives  have  some  knowledge  of  Captain  Cook,  derived  from  their  communication 
with  the  Friendly  Islands. 

VOL.   II.  19 


14G 


SAMOAN    GROUP. 


ridge-pole,  and  is  worked  downwards.  The  cross-beams  are  lashed  in 
at  different  heights,  connecting  the  centre  portions  of  the  roof  together, 
and  are  fastened  to  the  upright  centre  posts.  The  rafters  are  made  of 
short  pieces,  placed  at  equal  distances  apart,  and  form  the  curve  that 
is  required  to  construct  the  roof.  Between  the  largest  rafters  are 
smaller  ones,  about  one  foot  apart.  Across  the  rafters  are  placed  and 
fastened  many  small  rods,  about  an  inch  in  diameter.  The  whole  is 
neatly  thatched  with  the  sugar-cane  or  pandanus-leaves,  and  the 
rafters  are  terminated  by  a  wall-piece,  made  of  short  pieces  of  wood, 
fastened  together  and  to  the  rafters,  so  as  to  form  the  ellipse  required 
for  the  roof.  The  end  portions,  of  similar  small  pieces,  are  made  to 
correspond  to  the  required  curvature  of  the  roof  and  the  ellipse  of  the 
wall-plate.  Posts  are  now  placed  in  the  ground,  about  three  feet 
apart,  to  receive  the  wall-piece,  which  is  fastened  to  their  tops.  There 
is  no  fastening  used  but  sennit,  made  of  cocoa-nut  fibres.  The  rafters 
are  generally  made  of  the  hibiscus,  which  is  light  and  strong.  The 
eaves  extend  about  a  foot  beyond  the  posts.  The  smaller  houses 
generally  have  permanent  sides ;  the  larger  ones  are  open  all  around, 
but  mats  are  hung  up  as  curtains  by  the  occupants,  and  any  part  may 
be  used  as  a  door. 


SAMOAN  FALE-TELE. 


After  the  whole  is  finished,  the  interior  has  the  appearance  of  an 
extensive  framework,  from  the  number  of  cross-beams,  which  are  used 
as  depositories  for  their  property,  tapas,  mats,  &c. ;  and  in  some  cases 
the  favourite  canoe  of  the  chiefs  is  placed  on  them.  After  a  full 
inspection  of  one  of  these  fabrics,  one  cannot  but  view  these  natives 
not  only  as  industrious,  but  as  possessing  great  skill  and  ingenuity. 
The  thatching  lasts  four  or  five  years.  There  is  no  floor  to  the  house, 
but  the  ground  is  covered  with  stones  about  the  size  of  a  small  egg. 
There  is  usually  a  paved  platform  on  the  outside,  about  three  feet  wide. 
In  some  cases  this  is  raised  a  foot,  and  serves  to  keep  the  house  dry, 


SAMOAN    GROUP. 


147 


as  the  stones  allow  a  free  passage  to  water.  On  the  pavement  are 
laid  coarse  mats,  and  the  finer  ones  are  spread  above,  covering  about 
half  the  area. 

These  fine  mats  are  rolled  up  until  required.  Many  baskets  hang 
here  and  there,  with  some  cocoa-nut  shells  to  contain  water,  and  the 
ava-bowl.  Mats  are  suspended  about  as  screens.  At  night,  each 
sleeper  is  usually  supplied  with  a  musquito-curtain,  called  tai-namu, 
which,  forming  a  kind  of  tent,  by  being  passed  over  a  ridge-pole  or 
rope,  and  falling  on  the  ground,  answers  all  the  purposes  required.* 

On  one,  and  sometimes  on  both  sides  of  the  centre-post  of  the 
houses,  is  a  small  circular  hearth,  enclosed  by  stones  of  larger  size ; 
this  is  the  place  for  burning  the  dried  leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut,  which 
serve  them  for  light  at  night.  Although  these  do  not  give  out  much 
smoke,  yet  as  they  burn  for  a  long  time,  the  house  gradually  becomes 
filled  with  soot,  for  there  is  no  outlet  above  for  its  escape.f 

As  they  always  use  the  flambeau  to  light  them  on  their  return 
from  their  feasts,  it  produces  a  singular  and  pretty  effect  to  see  an 
assembly  breaking  up,  and  the  different  parties  winding  through  the 
groves  with  torches,  throwing  the  whole  into  bold  relief.  A  rude 
lamp  is  also  used,  made  of  a  cocoa-nut  shell,  with  a  little  oil  in  it,  and 
a  piece  of  vine-stalk  for  a  wick,  and  likewise  the  nut  of  the  Aleurites 
triloba,  or  candle-nut,  several  of  which  are  strung  on  a  thin  stick. 

Many  white-washed  houses  are  now  to  be  seen,  for  the  natives  have 
been  taught  the  use  of  lime  by  the  missionaries,  and  are  beginning  to 
use  it  in  their  dwellings.  All  the  missionaries'  houses  have  plastered 
walls,  and  board  floors,  and  are  very  comfortable.  There  is  a  great 
quantity  of  fine  timber  on  these  islands,  for  building  purposes.  The 
timber  of  the  bread-fruit  tree  and  hibiscus,  are  alone  made  use  of  by 
the  natives.  The  missionaries  have  their  planks  or  boards  sawed  by 
hand,  and  generally  by  foreign  carpenters. 

The  food  of  the  Samoans  is  prepared  in  the  way  practised  at  Tahiti, 
and  generally  consists  of  bread-fruit,  bananas,  taro,  sweet-potatoes, 
and  yams.  Fish  is  supplied  in  quantities  from  the  reef,  and  they  also 
eat  the  large  chestnut,  vi-apple,  and  arrow-root,  the  fecula  of  which 
they  begin  to  manufacture  in  some  quantities.  Although  it  would 
scarcely  be  supposed  necessary,  where  every  thing  is  so  bountifully 
supplied  by  nature,  yet  they  make  provision  for  times  of  scarcity  and 
for  their  voyages,  of  the  bread-fruit,  made  when  green  into  a  kind  of 

*  Musquitoes  are  exceedingly  annoying  to  strangers,  but  I  did  not  remark  that  the  natives 
were  troubled  with  them.  Their  bodies  being  well  oiled  is  a  great  preservation  against  the 
bites  of  these  insects. 

t  The  prevalence  of  sore  eyes  is  said  to  be  owing  to  the  smoke  of  the  lamps. 


148  SAMOAN    GROUP. 

paste,  and  rolled  in  banana-leaves.  This  undergoes  a  partial  fermen- 
tation, and  is  called  mahi.  It  is  not  unlike  half-baked  dough,  and  has 
a  sour  unwholesome  taste.  They  eat  birds,  &c.,  but  a  large  wood- 
maggot  which  is  found  on  the  trees,  is  looked  upon  as  the  most 
delicious  food  they  have. 

They  have  much  variety  in  their  cooking,  and  some  of  their  dishes 
are  exceedingly  rich  and  agreeable  to  the  taste.  They  practise  several 
modes  of  cooking  the  taro-tops ;  one,  by  tying  them  up  with  cocoa-nut 
pulp  and  baking  them,  in  which  state  they  resemble  spinach  cooked 
with  cream,  but  are  sweeter.  Another  dish  is  called  faiai,  made  of  the 
scraped  and  strained  cocoa-nut  pulp  boiled  down  to  the  consistency  of 
custard.  It  is  eaten  both  hot  and  cold. 

The  habits  of  the  Samoans  are  regular.  They  rise  with  the  sun, 
and  immediately  take  a  meal.  They  then  bathe  and  oil  themselves, 
and  go  to  their  occupations  for  the  day.  These  consist  in  part  of  the 
cultivation  of  taro  and  yams ;  building  houses  and  canoes.  Many 
fish ;  others  catch  birds,  for  which  purpose  they  use  nets  affixed  to 
long  poles.  They  generally  find  enough  to  employ  the  mornings,  in 
getting  their  daily  supply.  After  this  is  done,  they  lounge  about,  or 
play  at  their  various  games,  eat  about  one  o'clock,  and  again  at  night, 
retiring  to  rest  about  nine  o'clock.  The  men  do  all  the  hard  work, 
even  to  cookery. 

The  women  are  held  in  much  consideration  among  this  people,  are 
treated  with  great  attention,  and  not  suffered  to  do  any  thing  but  what 
rightfully  belongs  to  them.  They  take  care  of  the  house,  and  of  their 
children,  prepare  the  food  for  cooking,  do  all  the  in-door  work,  and 
manufacture  the  mats  and  tapa. 

They  are  cleanly  in  their  habits,  and  bathe  daily ;  after  which  they 
anoint  themselves  with  oil  and  turmeric.  This  custom,  I  have  no 
doubt  tends  to  preserve  the  health  by  preventing  the  excessive  perspi- 
ration which  the  heat  of  the  climate  naturally  brings  on.  It  is, 
however,  at  times  offensive,  for  the  oil  is  apt  to  become  rancid. 

The  Samoans  are  of  a  social  disposition,  more  so,  indeed,  than  the 
other  natives  of  the  Polynesian  islands,  and  they  are  fond  of  travelling. 
The  reasons  they  have  for  taking  these  journeys  are  various :  thus, 
when  there  is  a  scarcity  of  food  in  one  part,  or  a  failure  of  the  crops, 
they  are  in  the  habit  of  making  a  "  faatamilo,"  or  circuit,  around  a 
portion  of  these  islands,  so  that  by  the  time  they  return,  (which  is  at 
the  expiration  of  three  months,)  their  own  taro  has  grown  and  the 
bread-fruit  season  come  around.  They  are  now  in  their  turn  prepared 
to  afford  the  same  hospitality  and  accommodation  to  others.  The  old 
people  are  usually  left  at  the  village  to  take  care  of  it,  whilst  the 


S  A  M  O  A  N    G  R  O  U  P.  149 

younger  portions  are  gone  on  one  of  these  malangas,  or  journeys. 
During  these  expeditions,  a  sort  of  trade  is  frequently  carried  on.  The 
different  portions  of  the  inhabitants  are  each  celebrated  for  a  particular 
staple.  Some  excel  in  making  mats  ;  others  in  building  canoes  ;  the 
districts  in  which  the  seaports  are,  obtain  a  variety  of  articles  from 
ships,  which  are  subsequently  distributed  over  the  whole  group. 

It  may  readily  be  supposed  that  there  are  many  circumstances 
which  make  this  mode  of  communication  inconvenient,  particularly 
when  the  travelling  party  is  a  large  one,  in  which  case  it  absolutely 
breeds  a  famine  in  its  progress. 

I  have  before  stated  that  every  village  has  its  "  fale-tele,"  which  is 
the  property  of  the  chief.  In  this  their  "  fonos"  or  councils  are  held, 
and  it  is  also  the  place  where  strangers  are  received.  The  mode  of 
receiving  visitors  is  attended  with  much  ceremony.  A  party  enters 
the  village  without  inquiring  where  or  how  they  are  to  be  entertained, 
and  take  up  their  quarters  in  the  "  fale-tele."  In  a  short  time  the  chief 
and  principal  personages  collect  and  visit  the  strangers,  telling  them  in 
a  set  speech  the  pleasure  they  enjoy  at  their  arrival,  and  their  delight 
to  entertain  them.  This  is  mostly  said  in  what  they  term  "  tala-gota," 
the  speech  of  the  lips,  and  much  complimentary  language  ensues. 
The  Samoan  language  abounds  in  phrases  adapted  to  this  use,  and 
worthy  of  a  refined  people. 

After  this  interchange  of  compliments,  the  young  women  assemble 
to  treat  the  strangers  to  "  ava."  This  is  prepared  after  the  usual 
mode,  by  chewing  the  Piper  mythisticum.  During  this  time  the 
young  men  are  employed  collecting  and  cooking  food.  This  is  all 
done  with  great  despatch.  The  pigs  are  killed;  the  taro  collected; 
the  oven  heated ;  and  baskets  made  to  hold  the  viands.  In  the  feast 
they  are  well  assured  of  sharing,  and  therefore  have  a  strong  stimulus 
to  exertion. 

The  strangers,  on  receiving  the  food,  always  return  part  of  it  to  the 
entertainers.  Thus  all  the  village  is  occupied  with  the  entertainment, 
and  a  scene  of  frolicking  ensues  until  the  strangers  see  fit  to  take  their 
departure. 

Among  the  heathen,  dancing  during  the  evening  always  follows  this 
feast;  but  the  Christian  villages  have  abolished  all  dancing. 

These  visits  are  not  always  paid  or  received  in  a  spirit  of  hospitality. 
The  chief  of  a  powerful  district  takes  this  mode  to  exact  tribute  from 
his  less  powerful  neighbours,  and  they  are  on  such  occasions  extremely 
overbearing  and  insolent  to  their  entertainers. 

For  crimes,  they  have  many  forms  of  punishment,  among  which 
are :  expulsion  from  the  village  in  which  the  offender  resides ;  expo- 


150  SAMOAN    GROUP. 

sure  of  the  naked  body  to  the  sun ;  flogging ;  cutting  off  the  ears  and 
nose ;  confiscation  of  property ;  and  the  compulsory  eating  of  noxious 
herbs. 

When  a  murder  has  been  committed,  the  friends  of  the  person  slain 
unite  to  avenge  his  death;  and  the  punishment  does  not  fall  upon  the 
guilty  party  alone,  but  on  his  friends  and  relatives,  who  \vith  their 
property  are  made  the  subjects  of  retaliation.  If  any  delay  in  seeking 
redress  in  this  manner  occurs,  it  is  received  as  an  intimation  that  the 
injured  party,  whether  the  family,  the  friends,  the  village,  or  whole 
district  to  which  the  murdered  person  belonged,  are  willing  to  accept 
an  equivalent  for  the  wrong  they  have  sustained.  The  friends  of  the 
murderer  then  collect  what  they  hope  may  be  sufficient  to  avert  retri- 
bution, and  a  negotiation  is  entered  into  to  fix  the  amount  of  com- 
pensation. When  this  is  agreed  upon,  it  is  offered  to  the  nearest 
relative  of  the  deceased,  and  the  parties  who  present  it  perform  at  the 
same  time  an  act  of  submission,  by  prostrating  themselves  before  him. 
This  closes  the  affair. 

For  some  crimes  nothing  but  the  death  of  the  offender  could  atone. 
Among  these  was  adultery ;  and  when  the  wives  of  chiefs  eloped  with 
men  of  another  district,  it  generally  produced  a  war.  This  was  one 
of  the  causes  of  the  wars  waged  by  Malietoa. 

There  existed,  however,  means  by  which  the  code  was  rendered 
less  bloody,  in  places  of  refuge  for  offenders,  such  as  the  tombs  of 
chiefs,  which  were  held  sacred  and  inviolate. 

Wars  were  frequent  among  the  Samoans  before  the  introduction  of 
the  gospel,  and  scarcely  a  month  passed  without  quarrels  being 
avenged,  and  with  blows.  The  last  and  perhaps  the  most  bloody  war 
that  has  ever  occurred  on  these  islands,  was  about  the  time  of  the  first 
visit  of  Mr.  Williams,  the  missionary,  in  1830,  when  the  inhabitants 
of  one  of  the  finest  districts,  that  of  Aana,  in  the  western  part  of 
Upolu,  were  almost  exterminated.  This  war  continued  for  eight 
months,  and  only  those  were  saved  who  escaped  to  the  olos,  or  inac- 
cessible places  of  refuge,  or  were  protected  by  the  "  Malo,"  the  ruling 
or  conquerind  party. 

When  the  missionaries  arrived,  in  1836,  and  for  upwards  of  a 
year  afterwards,  Aana  was  without  a  single  inhabitant;  but  through 
their  influence  upon  the  Malo  party,  it  was  agreed  at  a  large 
"  fono"  to  restore  the  exiles  to  their  lands.  Aana  is  again  (in  1839) 
the  finest  part  of  the  island,  and  will  be  in  a  few  years  quite  a 
garden. 

These  wars,  like  those  of  all  savage  people,  were  attended  with  great 
cruelty,  and  neither  old  nor  young  of  either  sex  wrere  spared.  It  is 


SAMOANGROUP.  151 

related  that  after  the  last  battle  of  Aana,  a  fire  was  kept  burning  for 
several  days,  into  which  hundreds  of  women  and  children  were  cast. 

Their  wars  were  seldom  carried  on  in  open  fight,  but  stratagem 
was  resorted  to,  and  all  enemies  that  could  be  attacked  were  killed, 
whether  in  their  houses,  or  when  accidentally  met  with  at  their  work 
in  the  taro-patches. 

Their  arms  consisted  of  clubs  and  spears,  made  of  the  iron-wood 
(Casuarina),  bows  and  arrows,  and  of  late  years,  the  musket.  The 
man  who  could  ward  off  a  blow  and  at  the  same  time  inflict  a  wound 
on  his  adversary,  was  considered  the  best  warrior.  Each  village  had 
its  separate  commander,  and  there  was  no  general,  their  operations 
being  from  time  to  time  decided  in  council.  Their  spears  were 
pointed  with  the  sting  of  the  ray-fish,  which,  on  breaking  off  in  the 
body,  caused  certain  death. 

The  olos,  above  mentioned,  were  usually  on  the  top  of  some  high 
rock,  or  almost  inaccessible  mountain,  where  a  small  force  could 
protect  itself  from  a  larger  one.  One  of  these  olps,  or  strongholds,  of 
the  people  of  Aana,  during  the  late  war,  was  on  a  high  perpendicular 
ridge,  which  forms  the  western  boundary  of  the  bay  of  Faleletai,  and 
it  was  the  scene  of  many  a  bloody  contest.  The  Manono  people, 
coming  by  night,  would  land  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  attempt  its 
ascent,  while  those  on  the  top  would  roll  and  hurl  down  stones, 
generally  overcoming  them  with  ease,  and  driving  the  invaders  back 
with  great  slaughter.  The  latter,  however,  took  a  fearful  and  truly 
savage  revenge  for  their  various  defeats.  Laying  in  wait  until  the 
women  came  down  to  fish  on  the  reefs,  they  set  upon  them,  and 
massacred  them  all.  The  bm~ning  of  houses,  the  destruction  of  the 
bread-fruit,  cocoa-nut  trees,  taro-patches,  and  yam-grounds,  &c.,  were 
the  ordinary  features  of  these  conflicts. 

Prisoners  were  sometimes  spared,  but  they  were  usually  held  as 
subjects  of  retaliation,  in  case  of  any  of  the  adverse  party  being 
killed. 

Upon  the  occurrence  of  a  cause  of  war,  the  parties  sent  to  their 
respective  friends  in  the  different  towns  to  solicit  their  aid.  Such 
solicitations  usually  resulted  in  the  whole  district,  arid  sometimes  the 
whole  of  the  island,  being  engaged  in  a  civil  war. 

On  going  to  war,  they  were  accustomed  to  cast  their  hair  loose,  or 
to  tie  it  up  in  various  forms,  and,  to  add  to  the  fierceness  of  their 
appearance,  they  wore  large  bunches  of  false  hair,  which  also  in- 
creased their  apparent  height. 

In  making  peace,  the  conquered  party  was  required  to  make  submis- 


152  SA  MOAN    GROUP. 

sion,  by  bringing  loads  of  stones,  fire-wood,  and  green  boughs,  and  to 
bow  down  very  abjectly  in  the  presence  of  the  chief.  They  were 
also  required  to  pay  a  large  amount  of  tapa,  mats,  and  other  property. 

The  government  of  the  Samoans  is  more  refined  in  principle  than 
could  well  be  expected.  The  rule  of  hereditary  chiefs  is  acknow- 
ledged, and  the  distinction  of  the  several  classes  well  defined.  Great 
respect  is  paid  to  the  chiefs,  and  particularly  to  the  "Tupu,"  or  highest 
class.  To  this  belong  Malietoa,  Pea  of  Manono,  &c.  The  second 
class  consists  of  the  near  relatives  of  the  first,  and  of  others  who  have 
large  possessions ;  the  third,  of  the  petty  chiefs  of  villages ;  next 
come  the  tulafales,  who  are  a  well-defined  class  between  the  chiefs 
(alii)  and  common  people.  These  tulafales  are  proprietors  of  the  soil, 
and  householders;  they  possess  considerable  influence,  and  act  as 
advisers  of  the  chiefs,  and  the  executors  of  their  orders.  Like  the 
chiefs,  they  derive  their  rank  from  descent.  There  is  no  distinct 
name  for  the  common  people  as  a  class,  but  the  chiefs  in  speaking  of 
them  always  apply  some  opprobrious  epithet.  The  son  of  a  low-born 
woman  by  a  chief  ranks  as  a  chief,  although  he  has  no  authority,  and 
the  son  of  a  noble  woman  by  a  man  of  mean  birth,  may  be  either  a 
chief  or  a  commoner. 

The  lands  are  allotted  and  distinguished  by  known  boundaries. 
The  natural  heir  of  the  former  owner  succeeds,  and  is  the  feudal 
chief  or  leader  in  war,  but  all  his  dependants  are  free  to  cultivate  it. 
Lands  may  be  sold,  which  is  done  at  public  meetings,  and  the  bargain 
is  made  binding  by  sticking  their  staves  into  the  ground,  or  digging  a 
portion  of  it  up. 

The  whole  power  lies  in  the  high  chiefs  of  the  "  Malo"  or  con- 
quering party.  They  assemble  in  fono,  and  determine  the  general 
laws  and  rules  of  action.  At  the  head  of  this  is  Malietoa,  who  is  now 
considered  the  head  chief  of  Atua,  and  is  supposed  will  shortly 
acquire  that  of  Tui  of  Aana.  Each  of  these  districts  formerly  had  a 
separate  chief,  bearing  the  same  title  of  Tui,  but  in  their  wars  with 
Manono,  nearly  all  the  descendants  of  these  princes  were  killed  off. 
To  obtain  this  title  requires  the  consent  of  the  chiefs  of  Manono,  and 
part  of  Savaii,  which  belongs  to  the  ruling  party. 

The  fono  may  levy  what  contributions  it  pleases,  particularly  on 
those  they  have  conquered.  The  present  "  Malo"  or  government  is 
designated  "  Malo-to-toa" — the  gentle  government. 

Although  there  is  no  supreme  authority  acknowledged  in  any  one 
individual,  yet  there  are  instances  of  chiefs  of  districts  assuming  and 
maintaining  it.  The  late  Tamafago,  of  whom  some  account  has  already 


SAMOAN    GROUP. 


153 


been  given,  was  one  of  these.  He  assumed  the  attributes  not  only  of 
a  king,  but  of  a  god,  and  after  conquering  a  rival  district  on  Savaii,  he 
took,  as  has  been  stated,  the  name,  "  O  le  Tupu  o  Savaii" — the  King 
of  Savaii.  After  he  was  killed,  Malietoa  succeeded  to  the  same  title ; 
but  it  now  confers  no  power,  and  is  considered  merely  as  compli- 
mentary. 

Each  district  and  town  has  its  own  government.  An  elderly  chief 
generally  presides,  or  is  considered  as  the  head  of  the  village,  town,  or 
district.  In  these  primary  fonos  or  meetings,  the  affairs  are  generally 
discussed  by  the  alii  (chiefs)  and  tulafales  (landholders),  and  what  they 
determine  on  is  usually  followed.  The  great  fono,  or  general  assembly, 
is  seldom  called,  except  on  matters  affecting  the  whole  of  the  island  or 
district.  The  subject  is  calmly  debated,  and  most  thoroughly  discussed ; 
the  final  decision,  however,  is  not  by  vote,  but  is  adopted  after  consul- 
tation, and  is  governed  by  the  opinions  of  the  most  influential  chiefs.  It 
thus  appears  that  these  assemblies  have  little  influence  upon  the  course 
the  chiefs  may  have  determined  to  pursue,  and  serve  chiefly  to  insure 
the  united  action  of  the  district  in  carrying  the  designs  of  the  chiefs 
into  effect.  The  tulu-fano  or  decree,  promulgated  by  the  council,  is  to 
be  obeyed,  and  those  who  fail  are  punished  by  the  Malo,  being  plun- 
dered by  them  of  their  lands,  &c. 

In  the  descent  of  the  office  of  chief,  the  rule  of  primogeniture  is  not 
strictly  followed,  but  the  authority  and  title  always  remain  in  the  same 
family. 

It  is  the  custom  at  the  fonos  to  compliment  the  head  chiefs,  and 
invoke  blessings  on  them  in  prayers,  that  their  lives  may  be  prolonged 
and  prosperous.  I  was  informed  that  these  assemblies  were  conducted 
with  much  ceremony,  but  I  was  much  disappointed  in  the  one  I 
witnessed.  The  forms  of  proceeding  may,  however,  be  different  when 
strangers  are  not  present.  The  fonos  generally  begin  at  an  early  hour 
in  the  morning,  and  last  until  late  in  the  afternoon.  One  of  the  most 
pleasing  of  the  ceremonies  is  that  in  which  the  chiefs  are  supplied  with 
food  during  the  time  the  meeting  is  in  session.  After  the  food  is  pre- 
pared and  dished  in  fresh  banana-leaves,  the  wives  and  daughters  of 
the  chiefs  attire  themselves  in  their  best  dresses.  They  then  enter  the 
fale-tele,  and  approach  their  fathers,  husbands,  and  brothers,  &c.,  before 
whom  they  stop,  awaiting  their  instructions  as  to  whom  they  shall  hand 
the  viands.  When  they  have  obeyed  their  directions,  they  retire.  The 
whole  duty  is  conducted  with  the  utmost  decorum,  and  while  it  is  going 
on,  no  conversation  is  permitted  except  in  a  low  voice.  I  learned  from 
the  missionaries  who  had  attended  some  of  their  meetings,  that  the 

VOL.  n.  20 


154 


SAMOAN    GROUP. 


manner  of  speaking  was  good,  and  the  self-possession  of  the  orators 
remarkable.  The  speakers  generally  have  persons  near  them  who  act 
as  a  sort  of  prompters,  and  remind  them  of  the  subjects  it  is  desirable 
they  should  speak  of.  The  whole  proceedings  are  conducted  with  the 
utmost  quiet,  and  no  disturbance  is  allowed. 


SAMOAN  PET  PIGEON. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


CONTENTS. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  SAMOAN  GROUP— WALLIS  ISLAND— DISPOSITION  MADE  OF 
TUVAI— CATHOLIC  MISSIONARIES  AT  WALLIS  ISLAND— HOORN  ISLAND— MATTHEWS' 
ROCK-REMARKABLE  THUNDER  STORM— BALL'S  PYRAMID— PORT  JACKSON  ENTERED— 
ARRIVAL  AT  SYDNEY— VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOR— FORT  MACdUARIE-FATE  OF  MR. 
WILLIAMS— DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  TOWN  OF  SYDNEY— ITS  STREETS  — ITS  RESEM- 
BLANCE TO  AMERICAN  TOWNS— RELIGIOUS  SECTS— PREVALENCE  OF  INTOXICATION— 
GOVERNMENT-HOUSE—DRIVE  TO  SOUTH  HEAD— PUBLIC  GROUNDS— MR.  CUNNINGHAM 
THE  BOTANIST— HIS  MELANCHOLY  FATE— COUNTRY  AROUND  SYDNEY— THE  NATURAL- 
ISTS LEFT  IN  NEW  SOUTH  WALES— GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  THAT  COLONY— ITS 
FORESTS-ITS  GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE— COUNTRY  SOUTHWEST  OF  SYDNEY— LIVER- 
POOL MOUNTAINS— COUNTRY  NORTH  OF  THE  LIVERPOOL  MOUNTAINS— ILLAWARRA 
—DROUGHTS  AND  FLOODS— REMARKS  OF  MAJOR  MITCHELL— RIVERS  OF  NEW  SOUTH 
WALES— ITS  MINERAL  PRODUCTS— ITS  WATER— THE  HEIGHT  OF  ITS  MOUNTAINS-ITS 
CLIMATE— ITS  TEMPERATURE— PREVAILING  WINDS  — ITS  VEGETATION  — MONOTONY 
OF  ITS  SCENERY— ITS  HORTICULTURE— NATIVES  OF  AUSTRALIA-THEIR  NUMBERS— 
THEIR  PHYSICAL  TRAITS— THEIR  CHARACTER— THEIR  WANDERING  HABITS— THEIR 
TIMIDITY  — THEIR  CONFLICTS  — THEIR  CORROBORY  DANCES— ACCOUNT  OF  ONE  OF 
THEIR  BATTLES— THEIR  MODE  OF  SETTLING  PRIVATE  QUARRELS— THEIR  WEAPONS— 
THEIR  MODE  OF  CLIMBING-THEIR  CANOES— THEIR  SOCIAL  SYSTEM— THEIR  CUSTOM 
OF  MAKING  YOUNG  MEN  — THEIR  MARRIAGES  — BURIAL  OF  THEIR  DEAD  — THEIR 
RELIGIOUS  OPINIONS. 


•155) 


CHAPTER   VI. 

NEW   SOUTH    WALES. 
1839. 

ON  the  10th  of  November  we  weighed  anchor  from  Apia,  and  made 
all  sail  to  the  westward;  and  on  the  llth  had  lost  sight  of  Savaii. 
Officers  were  stationed  for  the  three  following  nights  to  look  out  for 
the  periodic  showers  of  meteors,  but  the  nights  were  cloudy,  and  none 
were  seen. 

On  the  12th  we  made  Uea  or  Wallis  Island,  and  at  3  p.  M.  were 
off  its  southern  end,  which  is  situated  in  latitude  13°  24'  S.,  longitude 
17G°  09'  22"  E.  Instead  of  a  single  island  as  might  be  expected  from 
the  name,  there  are  nine  separate  islands,  varying  in  circuit  from  one 
to  ten  miles,  and  enclosed  with  one  extensive  reef.  The  land  is,  in 
general,  high.  We  made  a  running  survey  of  this  group. 

While  off  Wallis  Island,  we  were  boarded  by  a  canoe,  in  which 
was  a  native  who  spoke  a  little  English.  I  had  thus  the  means  of  com- 
municating with  the  shore,  and  resolved  to  take  advantage  of  it  by 
landing  the  prisoner  Tuvai.  I  conceived  that  this  would  accomplish 
all  the  ends  I  had  in  view  in  removing  him  from  his  native  island, 
particularly  as  the  course  of  the  wind  is  such,  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  year,  as  to  prevent  canoes  proceeding  from  Wallis  Island  to  the 
Samoan  Group,  and  there  is  in  consequence  no  communication  between 
them.  His  fate  would  of  course  remain  a  mystery  to  his  countrymen, 
and  the  impression  I  had  hoped  to  produce  on  their  minds  would  be 
effectually  made.  My  original  intention  had  been  to  land  him  at 
Hoorn  Island,  which  is  two  days'  sail  further  to  the  south ;  but  a  similar 
opportunity  might  not  perhaps  have  presented  itself  there. 

Having  decided  on  this  course,  I  committed  him  to  the  charge 
of  the  person  who  had  boarded  us,  and  gave  particular  directions  that 

(157) 


158  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

he,  with  his  rolls  of  tapa,  should  be  immediately  taken  and  presented 
to  the  chief.  The  customs  of  the  islanders  promised  that  this  would 
insure  him  good  treatment,  by  giving  him  at  once  a  protector;  or  at 
least  that  he  would  be  only  robbed  by  a  single  person,  and  not  exposed 
to  the  pillage  of  the  whole  population,  who  would  in  all  probability 
have  stripped  him  of  his  property  the  instant  he  landed,  if  not  restrained 
by  the  authority  of  a  chief. 

Tuvai  seemed  delighted  at  being  released  from  his  confinement  on 
shipboard,  and  took  his  leave  by  shaking  hands  with  the  sentry.  Thus, 
while  the  culprit  has  not  been  exposed  to  any  unnecessary  severity  of 
punishment,  I  feel  satisfied  that  I  fully  accomplished  my  object  of 
convincing  his  countrymen  that  they  could  not  hope  to  commit  murders 
upon  their  white  visitors  with  impunity. 

These  islands  appear  to  be  well  wooded,  and  we  saw  many  large 
native  houses  upon  them.  As  we  drew  near,  we  perceived  upon  a 
rocky  flat  a  few  natives  waving  a  white  flag.  The  native  who  came 
on  board  informed  me  that  the  inhabitants  were  numerous,  and  that 
among  them  there  were  ten  white  men. 

It  is  said  that  the  Catholic  missionaries  who  were  expelled  from 
Tahiti  were  landed  on  this  island,  when,  the  moment  they  reached  the 
shore,  they  were  stripped  of  all  they  possessed.  They,  notwithstanding, 
commenced  their  good  work,  and  are  reported  to  have  performed  it 
effectually.* 

The  entrance  to  the  lagoon  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  group,  and 
the  pilot,  if  so  he  may  be  called,  informed  me  that  there  was  ample 
room  for  the  ship  to  pass  within  the  reef.  Wood,  water,  and  refresh- 
ments may  be  obtained  here. 

Towards  evening  we  stood  on  our  course  with  a  strong  breeze, 
regretting  that  time  did. not  permit  of  landing  and  obtaining  a  more 
full  account  of  this  little-known  land.  But  the  season  for  operating  in 
high  southern  latitudes  was  rapidly  approaching,  and  I  was  aware  that, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  extent  of  sea  that  was  to  be  traversed,  I  must 
spend  a  considerable  time  at  Sydney  in  making  the  necessary  pre- 
parations for  a  long  and  arduous  cruise. 

Hoorn  Island  was  made  the  following  day.  It  was  discovered  in 
1616  by  Schouten  and  Le  Maire.  Its  highest  point  is  two  thousand 
five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea ;  on  its  northern  side  many  rocks  are 
visible,  and  the  whole  surface  appears  bold  and  precipitous,  affording, 
as  far  as  we  could  perceive,  little  soil  for  cultivation.  Cocoa-palms  in 

*  While  in  the  Feejee  Group,  I  learned  that  a  Catholic  mission  had  already  been  esta- 
blished there ;  that  it  was  prospering',  and  that  it  had  already  been  the  means  of  saving  an 
English  vessel  from  capture,  by  a  timely  notice  to  the  crew. 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  159 

considerable  numbers,  were,  however,  observed   upon   a  low   point 
projecting  from  its  southern  side. 

This  island  is  inhabited,  and  I  have  been  informed  that  an  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  to  establish  a  mission  upon  it  was  made  by  the  Catho- 
lics in  1840. 

Taking  our  departure  from  Hoorn  Island,  we  made  all  sail  to  the 
southward,  passing  about  sixty  miles  to  the  westward  of  the  Feejee 
Group,  which  was  to  be  afterwards  a  subject  of  close  examination. 
On  crossing  the  meridian  of  180°  we  dropped  the  14th  of  November, 
in  order  to  make  our  time  correspond  to  that  of  the  Eastern  Hemi- 
sphere, to  which  our  operations  were  for  some  months  to  be  confined. 

On  the  18th,  we  saw  Matthews'  Rock,  whose  height  we  ascertained 
to  be  one  thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty-six  feet.  It  is  of  a  conical 
shape,  about  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  principally  composed  of 
conglomerate.  A  dike  of  basalt  was  observed  occupying  about  a 
third  of  the  width  of  the  island.  In  order  to  obtain  specimens,  a  boat 
was  despatched  to  endeavour  to  effect  a  landing:  the  undertaking 
proved  difficult,  but  was  accomplished  by  Dr.  Fox  and  Midshipman 
Henry,  who  swam  through  the  surf.  They  brought  off  some  speci- 
mens of  porphyritic  rock,  and  a  few  small  crystals  of  selenite. 
Patches  were  seen  on  the  northern  side  of  the  island  appearing  as  if 
covered  with  sulphur.  As  has  been  so  often  mentioned  in  speaking 
of  other  uninhabited  islands,  great  numbers  of  birds  were  seen 
upon  and  around  it.  This  island  is  in  latitude  22°  27'  S.,  longitude 
172°  10'  33"  E. 

For  several  days  preceding  the  18th,  a  current  had  been  perceived 
setting  southwest ;  it  was  tried  here,  and  found  to  set  in  that  direction 
at  the  rate  of  three  fathoms  per  hour.  The  wind  began  here  to  haul 
to  the  northward  and  eastward. 

We  had  the  misfortune  on  this  day  to  lose  one  of  our  Six's  ther- 
mometers, after  having  made  a  cast  of  two  hundred  fathoms  with  it. 
The  difference  between  the  temperature  at  the  surface  and  at  that 
depth,  was  14°,  the  former  being  76°.  The  following  day  (19th),  a 
cast  of  six  hundred  fathoms  was  made  by  the  Peacock.  The  tem- 
perature below  was  50°,  while  that  at  the  surface  was  73°. 

On  the  24th,  we  had  a  remarkably  severe  storm  of  thunder  and 
lightning ;  the  ship  appeared  filled  with  the  electric  fluids ;  the  points 
of  the  conductors,  the  mastheads,  and  yardarms  were  illuminated  with 
Corpo  Santos ;  and  several  of  the  officers  declared  that  they  had  felt 
electric  shocks.  The  gale  blew  violently,  beginning  from  the  north- 
west, and  then  shifting  to  the  southwest.  During  its  continuance  the 
thermometer  fell  seventeen  degrees. 


160  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

For  the  two  following  days  we  had  head  winds,  and  a  heavy  cross 
sea. 

On  the  26th  November,  we  made  Ball's  Pyramid,  which  appears  to 
be  a  barren  rock  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea. 

On  the  24th,  25th,  26th,  and  27th,  we  experienced  a  current  setting 
at  the  rate  of  twenty-four  miles  a  day  to  the  northeast.  On  the  28th 
it  set  east-northeast  at  the  rate  of  twenty-five  miles  per  day.  From 
the  latter  date  the  current  began  to  set  strongly  to  the  southwest, 
showing  that  we  had  entered  the  stream  which  sets  in  that  direction 
along  the  coast  of  New  South  Wales. 

At  sunset  on  the  29th  November,  we  made  the  light-house  on  the 
headland  of  Port  Jackson.  We  had  a  fair  wind  for  entering  the 
harbour,  and  although  the  night  was  dark,  and  we  had  no  pilot,  yet 
as  it  was  important  to  avoid  any  loss  of  time,  I  determined  to  run  in. 
I  adopted  this  resolution,  because,  although  we  were  all  unacquainted 
with  the  channel,  I  was  assured  that  the  charts  in  our  possession 
might  be  depended  upon,  and  I  stood  on  under  a  press  of  sail,  accom- 
panied by  the  Peacock.  At  8  p.  M.  we  found  ourselves  at  the  entrance 
of  the  harbour.  Here  a  light  erected  on  a  shoal  called  the  Sow  and 
Pigs,  since  the  publication  of  the  charts,  caused  a  momentary  hesita- 
tion, but  it  was  not  long  before  it  was  determined  where  it  was  placed, 
and  with  this  new  aid,  I  decided  to  run  up  and  anchor  off  the  Cove. 
In  this  I  succeeded,  and  the  Peacock,  directed  by  signal,  followed  the 
Vincennes.  At  half-past  10  p.  M.  we  quietly  dropped  anchor  off  the 
Cove,  in  the  midst  of  the  shipping,  without  any  one  having  the  least 
idea  of  our  arrival. 

When  the  good  people  of  Sydney  looked  abroad  in  the  morning, 
they  were  much  astonished  to  see  two  men-of-war  lying  among  their 
shipping,  which  had  entered  their  harbour  in  spite  of  the  difficulties 
of  the  channel,  without  being  reported,  and  unknown  to  the  pilots. 
Their  streets  were  speedily  alive  with  our  officers  and  men,  who  were 
delighted  at  finding  themselves  once  more  in  a  civilized  country,  and 
one  where  their  own  language  was  spoken. 

The  Porpoise  and  Flying-Fish  arrived  the  next  day. 

The  morning  of  the  30th  was  beautiful,  and  the  scene  that  broke 
upon  us  was  totally  unlike  any  we  had  hitherto  witnessed  during  our 
voyage.  In  particular,  the  strong  resemblance  of  all  that  we  saw  to 
our  own  homes,  and  the  identity  of  language,  gave  us  indescribable 
feelings  of  pleasure. 

Our  consul,  J.  W.  Williams,  Esq.,  came  early  on  board  to  welcome 
us.  He  communicated  the  information  that  the  Relief  had  arrived 
safely,  and  landed  all  our  stores,  which  were  ready  for  us  and  close 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  jgj 

at  hand  ;  after  which,  and  about  ten  days  before  our  arrival,  she  had 
sailed  for  the  United  States. 

Our  arrival  was  duly  announced  by  an  officer,  and  through  him  I 
was  informed  that  the  governor,  Sir  George  Gipps,  would  be  happy 
to  receive  me  at  eleven  o'clock.  In  compliance  with  this  intimation, 
I  had  the  honour  of  waiting  upon  his  Excellency  at  that  hour,  in 
company  with  Captain  Hudson,  and  our  consul.  I  made  my  apolo- 
gies for  having  entered  the  harbour  in  so  unceremonious  a  manner, 
and  stated  the  reasons  why  I  could  not  tender  the  customary  salutes. 

The  reception  I  met  with  was  truly  kind :  every  assistance  which 
lay  in  his  power  was  cordially  offered ;  and  I  was  assured  that  I  had 
only  to  make  my  wants  known  to  have  them  supplied.  The  use  of 
Fort  Macquarie  was  immediately  granted  me  for  an  observatory,  a 
position  which,  being  within  hail  of  my  ship,  gave  me  great  facilities 
for  conducting  my  experiments,  and  at  the  same  time  superintending 
my  other  duties. 

Fort  Macquarie  is  situated  on  Bennilong's  Point,  which  forms  the 
eastern  side  of  Sydney  Cove;  it  covers  about  half  an  acre  of  ground, 
and  is  twenty  feet  above  high- water  mark;  it  has  a  few  guns  mounted, 
but  they  are  in  no  condition  for  service.* 

A  few  days  before  our  arrival,  it  had  been  debated  in  council, 
whether  more  effectual  means  of  fortification  were  not  necessary  for 
the  harbour.  The  idea  of  this  being  wanted  was  ridiculed  by  the  ma- 
jority ;  but  the  entrance  of  our  ships  by  night  seems  to  have  changed 
this  opinion.  Had  war  existed,  we  might,  after  firing  the  shipping, 
and  reducing  a  great  part  of  the  town  to  ashes,  have  effected  a  retreat 
before  daybreak,  in  perfect  safety.f 

I  may  in  this  place  acknowledge  the  open-hearted  welcome  we  met 
with  from  all  the  government  officers,  military  and  civil,  as  well  as 
from  the  citizens.  Our  reception  was  gratifying  in  the  extreme,  and 
cannot  be  too  highly  appreciated.  The  Australian  ClubJ  was  thrown 
open  to  us  by  its  committee,  and  parties,  balls,  &c.,  were  given  in 
our  honour ;  in  short,  all  our  leisure  time  was  fully  occupied  in  the 
receipt  of  these  hospitable  attentions. 

The  day  after  we  anchored  at  Sydney,  the  brig  Camden  also 
arrived.  By  her  we  learned  the  melancholy  intelligence  of  the  death 
of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Williams,  from  whom  we  had  parted  so  short  a  time 
before  at  the  Samoan  Group.  He  was  then,  as  will  be  recollected, 

*  I  understand  that  since  our  visit  to  Sydney,  Fort  Macquarie  has  been  demolished. 
t  Since  our  visit,  however,  several  new  fortifications  have  been  erected. 
t  At  the  Australian  Club,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  Count  Strezleski,  well  known  in 
the  United  States,  who  was  travelling  in  New  South  Wales. 
VOL.  II.  21 


102  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

about  setting  forth  to  propagate  the  gospel  among  the  savages  of  the 
New  Hebrides,  and  was  in  full  health  and  high  spirits,  in  the  ardent 
hope  of  success  in  his  mission.  My  information  in  respect  to  this  sad 
event,  was  derived  from  his  associate,  Mr.  Cunningham.  They  had 
placed  native  missionaries  at  llotuma  and  Totoona.  Mr.  Williams 
then  landed  at  Tanna,  which  they  found  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation, 
and  where  they  were  hospitably  received  by  the  natives.  These  were 
Papuans,  and  spoke  a  language  much  like  that  of  the  Hervey  Islanders. 
At  Tanna,  Samoan  missionaries  were  also  left,  and  they  thence  pro- 
ceeded to  Erromango.  Here  they  found  a  barren  country  and  a 
different  race  of  men,  black,  with  woolly  hair,  who  did  not  comprehend 
a  word  of  any  of  the  languages  known  to  the  missionaries. 

The  natives,  although  apparently  suspicious,  exhibited  no  symptoms 
of  actual  hostility.  Mr.  Williams,  with  Mr.  Harris,  Mr.  Cunningham, 
and  the  master  of  the  vessel,  landed,  and  were  strolling  about,  amusing 
themselves  with  picking  up  shells.  While  thus  engaged,  they  had 
separated  from  each  other,  and  Messrs.  Harris  and  Williams  were  in 
advance  of  the  others.  On  a  sudden  the  war-shout  was  heard,  and 
Mr.  Harris  was  seen  running,  pursued  by  a  crowd  of  natives.  He 
was  soon  overtaken  by  them,  and  killed.  Mr.  Williams  then  turned 
and  endeavoured  to  reach  the  boat,  but  he  had  delayed  too  long,  and 
although  he  reached  the  water,  he  was  followed  into  it  and  slain  also. 

Mr.  Cunningham  and  the  captain  escaped,  although  with  difficulty, 
and  after  some  fruitless  attempts  to  recover  the  body,  left  the  island. 
Mr.  Cunningham  was  of  opinion  that  the  attack  had  not  been  pre- 
meditated, but  arose  from  a  sudden  desire  to  obtain  possession  of  the 
clothes  of  the  persons  who  were  on  shore;  he  was  also  satisfied  that 
a  single  loaded  musket  in  the  hands  of  those  left  in  the  boat,  would 
have  been  the  means  of  saving  these  two  valuable  lives. 

I  had,  in  a  conversation  with  Mr.  Williams  at  Upolu,  expressed  my 
belief  that  the  savage  inhabitants  of  the  New  Hebrides  would  not  be 
safely  visited  without  the  means  of  defence.  He  had  in  reply  declared 
himself  averse  to  the  use  of  fire-arms  or  any  other  weapon  in  the  pro- 
pagation of  the  gospel ;  being  of  opinion  that  it  would  be  more  easily 
and  effectually  disseminated  without  them. 

The  missionary  cause  has  sustained  a  great  loss  in  Mr.  Williams's 
death ;  for  in  him  were  united  a  true  spirit  of  enterprise  and  fervent 
zeal,  with  great  perseverance  and  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  native 
character.  I  still  think  with  melancholy  pleasure  of  the  acquaintance 
I  had  the  good  fortune  to  form  with  him. 

The  town  of  Sydney  may,  for  convenience  of  description,  be  con- 
sidered as  divided  into  two  parts  ;  the  line  that  separates  them  coincides 


N  E  W    S  O  U  T  II    W  A  L  E  S.  1G3 

nearly  with  that  of  George  Street,  the  Broadway  of  Sydney.  The  old 
town  lies  on  the  east  side  of  this  line,  and  occupies  the  eastern  promon- 
tory of  the  Cove;  it  is  the  least  reputable  part,  and  is  almost  filled 
with  grog-shops  and  brothels,  except  at  its  extreme  eastern  quarter, 
where  there  are  a  few  genteel  buildings,  in  agreeable  situations.  The 
streets  to  the  south  and  west  of  George  Street  are  well  laid  out,  and  are 
rapidly  filling  up  with  good  houses. 

George  Street  extends  in  a  direction  nearly  north  and  south  for  two 
or  three  miles,  as  far  as  Brickfield  Hill,  which  is  also  nearly  covered 
with  buildings.  On  George  Street  are  many  of  the  public  buildings, 
among  which  are  the  barracks,  the  markets,  the  post-office,  and  the 
banks.  The  remaining  buildings  which  front  upon  it  are  chiefly  occu- 
pied as  shops,  in  which  almost  every  description  of  European  manu- 
factures may  be  procured,  and  some  of  them  at  moderate  prices. 
Several  streets  run  parallel,  and  others  at  right  angles  to  George  Street. 

The  houses  of  Sydney  are  for  the  most  part  well  built  and  commo- 
dious. On  the  western  side  of  the  town  are  many  handsome  buildings 
and  extensive  public  grounds ;  towards  the  eastern  side  is  a  large 
square,  called  Hyde  Park,  upon  which  are  situated  the  offices  of  the 
colonial  government,  the  church  of  St.  James,  and  the  Catholic 
cathedral. 

Sydney  contains  about  twenty-four  thousand  inhabitants,  which  is 
about  one-fifth  part  of  the  whole  population  (120,000)  of  the  colony; 
and  about  one-fourth  of  this  number  are  convicts.  In  truth,  the  fact 
that  it  is  a  convict  settlement  may  be  at  once  inferred  from  the  number 
of  police-officers  and  soldiers  that  are  every  where  seen,  and  is  rendered 
certain  by  the  appearance  of  the  "  chain-gangs."  The  latter  reminded 
us,  except  in  the  colour  of  those  who  composed  them,  of  the  coffee- 
carrying  slaves  at  Rio  ;  but  the  want  of  the  cheerful  song,  and  the 
apparent  merriment  which  the  Brazilian  slaves  exhibit  in  the  execution 
of  their  tasks,  was  apparent. 

When  viewed  from  the  water,  Sydney  appears  to  great  advantage. 
It  lies  on  the  south  side  of  the  harbour,  and  covers  two  narrow 
promontories,  separated  and  bounded  by  coves.  The  ground  rises 
gradually,  and  thus  exhibits  its  buildings  to  great  advantage,  giving  it 
the  air  of  a  large  commercial  city.  It  is  chiefly  built  of  a  drab- 
coloured  sandstone,  resembling  that  employed  in  the  new  public  build- 
ings at  Washington,  but  of  a  lighter  hue.  Red  brick  is  also  used  in 
building,  and  the  suburbs  contain  many  neat  cottages  and  country- 
seats.  The  sandstone  is  a  beautiful  material,  but  is  not  very  durable. 
The  view  of  the  town  is  diversified  with  the  peculiar  foliage  of  Austra- 
lian tree1?,  amon<*  which  the  pines  of  Norfolk  Island  and  Moreton  Bay 


164  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

are  most  conspicuous.  At  the  time  of  our  arrival,  the  trees  were  in- 
fested with  locusts  (Cicada),  which  made  a  noise  absolutely  deafening. 
The  sound  this  insect  produces  is  the  same  as  that  made  by  the  analo- 
gous species  in  the  United  States,  but  is  continued  here  during  the  heat 
of  the  day,  and  ten  times  more  deafening. 

Handsome  equipages  abound ;  and  the  stage-coaches  are  numerous. 
These,  with  the  costume  and  demeanour  of  the  more  respectable  part 
of  the  population,  struck  us  as  being  more  like  what  is  seen  in  our  towns 
than  in  those  of  Europe.  Every  thing  has  a  new  look  about  it,  and  the 
people  manifest  more  of  the  bustle  and  activity  of  our  money-making 
and  enterprising  population  than  are  to  be  seen  in  old  countries.  The 
acquisition  of  wealth  seems  to  be  the  only  object  of  all  exertion  here, 
and  speculation  was  as  rife  as  we  had  left  it  in  the  United  States. 
Cutting  down  hills,  filling  up  valleys,  laying  out  and  selling  lots,  were 
actively  going  on.  There  are  in  truth  many  particulars  in  which  the 
people  of  Sydney  resemble  those  of  America.  This  is  observable, 
among  other  things,  in  the  influence  of  the  public  press.  In  Australia, 
however,  it  is  more  licentious  than  any  except  the  lowest  of  our  news- 
papers ;  taking  unwarrantable  liberties  with  private  character,  and  is 
far  from  being  remarkable  for  discrimination. 

All  the  religious  sects  of  the  British  Islands  have  their  representa- 
tives here.  Each  has  its  ardent  advocates,  who  appear  to  be  in  con- 
tinual war  with  those  of  the  others.  The  contest  between  them  had 
risen  to  a  great  height  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  which  is  probably  to  be 
ascribed  to  the  agitation  of  a  question  in  relation  to  the  distribution  of 
the  school-fund. 

In  one  particular,  a  most  striking  difference  is  to  be  observed 
between  the  scenes  to  be  witnessed  at  Sydney,  and  in  the  cities  of 
the  United  States.  This  consists  in  the  open  practice  of  the  vice  of 
drunkenness,  which  here  stalks  abroad  at  noonday.  It  is  not  rare  at 
any  time,  but  on  holidays  its  prevalence  surpasses  any  thing  I  have 
ever  witnessed.  Even  persons  of  the  fair  sex  (if  they  may  be  so 
called)  wrere  there  to  be  seen  staggering  along  the  most  public  streets, 
brawling  in  the  houses,  or  borne  off  in  charge  of  the  police.  However 
highly  coloured  this  picture  may  be  thought,  it  is  fully  corroborated 
by  the  police  reports  of  the  Sydney  papers  on  Monday  mornings. 
The  police-officers  themselves  are  among  the  venders  of  the  intoxi- 
cating liquid. 

The  facilities  for  indulgence  in  this  vice  are  to  be  seen  every  where 
in  the  form  of  low  taverns  and  grog-shops,  which  attract  attention  by 
their  gaudy  signs,  adapted  to  the  taste  of  the  different  orders  of  custo- 
mers, as  " the  King's  Arms,"  the  "Punch-Bowl,"  the  "Shamrock," 


N  E  W    S  O  U  T  H    W  A  L  E  S.  ]  65 

the  "Thistle,"  the  "Ship,"  the  "Jolly  Sailors."  Of  these,  two 
hundred  and  fifty  are  licensed  by  the  government,  or  more  than  one 
to  each  hundred  souls.  Among  them  a  small  shop  was  pointed  out, 
which  from  the  extent  of  its  custom,  yielded  the  enormous  amount  of 
£200  for  rent  to  its  owner  annually,  a  sum  far  beyond  the  apparent 
value  of  the  whole  property.  The  quantity  of  rum  which  is  consumed 
in  the  colony  may  be  estimated  from  the  facts,  that  the  revenue  derived 
from  its  importation  w7as  in  1838  £189,450,  and  that  the  supply 
amounts  nearly  to  eight  gallons  annually  for  every  individual  in  the 
colony. 

This  state  of  things  arose,  of  course,  originally  from  the  habits  of 
the  abandoned  persons  who  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  population.  It 
might,  therefore,  have  appeared  to  be  the  duty  of  the  successive  gover- 
nors to  restrain  the  vice,  or  even  to  render  its  commission  impossible, 
by  prohibiting  importation.  So  far  as  penalty  goes,  this  has  been 
attempted,  and  a  fine  of  five  shillings  is  levied  on  all  who  are  con- 
victed of  drunkenness  before  a  magistrate ;  but,  on  the  other  hand, 
rum  was  actually  at  one  time  the  only  circulating  medium,  and  in  it 
the  prices  of  land,  labour,  and  food  were  estimated,  and  for  it  they 
were  freely  exchanged.  Even  for  the  charitable  purpose  of  erecting 
a  public  hospital,  Governor  Macquarie  granted  to  four  individuals, 
who  defrayed  the  whole  expense,  the  monopoly  of  the  right  of  pur- 
chasing all  the  spirits  imported  into  the  colony,  and  of  landing  them 
free  of  duty,  for  several  years,  with  the  additional  consideration  of  a 
quantity  of  rum  from  the  king's  stores.* 

The  old  Government-House,  w7here  I  had  the  honour  of  seeing  Sir 
George  Gipps,  is  a  low,  cottage-shaped  building,  which  has  no  preten- 
sions to  beauty,  and  appears  to  have  been  built  at  different  times, 
having  been  enlarged  as  often  as  additional  accommodation  was 
needed.  During  the  summer  months  the  Governor  resides  at  the 
Government-House  at  Paramatta. 

A  new  palace  or  government-house  is  at  present  building,  in  the 
public  grounds  which  lie  to  the  eastward  of  the  old  one,  from  which 
a  road  extends  through  them  towards  the  South  Head  of  Port  Jackson. 
This  road  is  the  usual  promenade  and  drive  of  the  citizens  of  Sydney. 
After  leaving  the  government  domain,  it  enters  Wooloomoloo,  a  re- 
gion covered  with  the  country-seats  and  cottages  of  the  higher  classes, 
which  although  originally  little  more  than  a  barren  rock,  has  been 

*  It  is  related,  that  a  highly  respectable  individual  transmitted  complaints  against  Go- 
vernor Macquarie  to  the  home  government ;  and  that,  by  way  of  answering  these  expostu- 
lations, the  reply  of  the  Governor  was:  "There  are  but  two  classes  of  persons  in  New 
South  Wains,  those  who  have  been  convicted,  and  those  who  ought  to  be." 


1GG  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

brought  into  a  high  state  of  cultivation  by  its  occupants.  The  drive 
in  this  direction  may  challenge  comparison  for  beauty  with  any  part 
of  the  world.  It  presents  innumerable  and  picturesque  views  of  the 
noble  bay,  and  of  the  promontories  that  jut  into  it,  occupied  by  man- 
sions and  ornamental  grounds.  On  reaching  the  South  Head,  a  view 
of  great  beauty  is  also  seen.  The  point  thus  named,  is  a  bold  head- 
land, about  two  hundred  and  fifty-four  feet  in  height,  on  which  stands 
the  light-house,  a  fine  tower,  with  a  brilliant  revolving  light. 

The  public  grounds  are  in  part  occupied  by  a  Botanical  Garden, 
which  was  laid  out  by  Mr.  Cunningham,  the  botanist  of  the  colony, 
to  whose  memory  a  monument  is  about  to  be  erected  in  the  garden, 
which  is  itself  a  memorial  of  his  fine  taste,  and  his  successful  cultiva- 
tion of  the  science  he  professed.  Mr.  Cunningham  perished  by  a 
melancholy  death,  which  is  still  spoken  of  with  regret.  He  had,  in 
his  capacity  of  botanist,  accompanied  Major  Mitchell,  the  Surveyor- 
General  of  the  colony,  on  a  tour  of  exploration  in  1835.  In  the 
pursuit  of  his  researches,  he  wandered  from  the  party,  and  did  not 
return.  As  soon  as  he  was  missed,  the  native  guides  were  sent  in 
search  of  him,  but  returned  without  having  succeeded  in  finding  his 
traces.  Major  Mitchell  then  instituted  a  fresh  search,  in  which  the 
tracks  of  Mr.  Cunningham's  horse  were  found,  and  followed  for  ninety 
miles.  Within  this  space  three  places  were  seen  where  he  had  stopped 
and  encamped.  From  the  last  of  these,  the  tracks  of  the  horse  were 
again  followed,  until  the  carcass  of  the  animal  was  found  dead  through 
fatigue  and  starvation,  with  the  whip  tied  to  the  bridle,  and  all  his 
accoutrements  about  him.  Retracing  their  steps  to  his  last  encamp- 
ment, they  ascertained,  on  close  examination,  that  he  had  there  killed 
his  dog  for  food,  and  his  footsteps  were  seen  as  if  making  rapid  strides 
for  the  bed  of  a  river,  which  he  had  followed  to  a  pool,  into  which  he 
had  plunged.  Farther  down  the  river,  some  shells  were  found  near  the 
remains  of  a  fire,  which  had  evidently  been  kindled  by  a  white  man. 
Here  all  further  traces  of  him  were  lost,  and  the  search  abandoned  in 
despair. 

Some  months  afterwards,  a  second  search  was  made  by  Lieutenant 
Vouch.  In  the  course  of  this,  some  natives  were  taken  near  the 
Brogan  river,  in  whose  possession  a  part  of  Mr.  Cunningham's 
clothing  was  found.  They  stated  that  a  white  man  had  come  to  them 
in  a  state  of  great  exhaustion ;  that  he  was  hungry,  and  they  fed  him, 
but  that  during  the  night  they  had  become  afraid,  and  killed  him. 
The  body  was  never  found. 

Lieutenant  Vouch  inferred  that  Mr.  Cunningham  had  become  de- 
ranged by  the  severity  of  his  sufferings,  and  that  this  had  caused  him 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  10? 

to  wander  about  at  night,  which,  with  other  suspicious  movements, 
had  alarmed  the  natives,  who,  under  the  influence  of  their  terrors,  had 
murdered  him. 

Thus  ended  the  useful  life  of  one  who  had  raised  himself  to  eminence 
by  his  own  exertions,  and  had,  by  his  virtues  and  scientific  acquire- 
ments, gained  the  esteem  of  all  the  pure  and  good  of  the  colony,  by 
whom  he  will  be  long  affectionately  and  honourably  remembered. 

These  grounds  have  many  pleasant  shady  walks,  and  afford  an 
agreeable  promenade  for  the  inhabitants  of  Sydney ;  and  one  of  them 
encircles  the  whole,  with  occasionally  a  rural  seat  and  arbour.* 

The  aspect  of  the  country  around  Sydney  is  sufficient  to  prove  that 
New  South  Wales  is  very  different,  in  its  general  features,  from  other 
parts  of  the  globe.  This  is  chiefly  owing  to  two  causes :  the  aridity 
of  its  climate,  and  the  prevalence  of  sandstone  rock.  This  rock  may 
be  readily  examined  at  the  Heads  of  Port  Jackson,  and  on  the  shores 
of  the  many  coves  that  surround  this  beautiful  harbour.  Its  colour  is 
pale  yellow  or  drab,  and  it  lies  in  beds  nearly  horizontal  and  of  various 
thickness,  whose  upper  surface,  except  where  broken  by  ravines  and 
water-courses,  forms  a  table-land.  The  average  elevation  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Sydney  is  from  three  hundred  and  fifty  to  four  hundred 
feet.  At  this  level  it  extends  in  gentle  undulations  to  a  great  distance 
inland. 

This  arid  soil  yields  but  a  scanty  growth  of  vegetable  products, 
which,  consisting  of  burnt  pasture,  and  thinly-scattered  trees  and 
shrubbery,  give  to  the  whole  region  a  look  of  desolation.  The  grass 
does  not  every  where  conceal  the  bare  rock,  and  the  thin  soil  supports 
only  a  few  gum  trees  (Eucalypti),  and  bushes.  Throughout  the  wide 
plain  there  is  little  to  relieve  the  eye,  except  here  and  there  a  small 
cultivated  spot. 

As  I  did  not  consider  it  necessary  that  any  of  the  naturalists  should 
accompany  the  squadron  on  its  southern  cruise,  they  were  left  at 
Sydney,  with  orders  to  visit  such  parts  of  the  country  as  might  appear 
to  offer  the  best  opportunities  for  making  collections  in  their  respective 
departments.f  This  enabled  me  to  obtain  much  information  in  rela- 

*  At  the  end  of  the  walk  around  the  government  domain,  the  following  inscription  is 
calculated  to  excite  a  smile  :  "  Be  it  recorded,  that  this  road  round  the  inside  of  the  govern- 
ment domain,  called  Mrs.  Macquarie's  Road,  so  called  by  the  Governor  on  account  of  her 
having  originally  planned  it,  three  miles  and  three  hundred  and  seventy-seven  yards  in 
length,  was  finally  completed  on  the  13th  day  of  June,  1816." 

Governor  Macquaric  has  literally  put  his  mark  on  the  town  of  Sydney,  where  hardly  a 
single  street,  square,  or  public  building  can  be  passed,  without  seeing  his  name  cut  in  stone. 

t  For  orders,  propositions  of  officers,  and  letters  respecting  their  employment,  see 
Appendix  XI. 


168  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

tion  to  the  interior  of  this  interesting  country,  its  productions,  and  its 
original  inhabitants.  The  narratives  of  several  of  these  journeys  will 
be  given  hereafter,  but  so  much  of  what  they  learned  as  is  general, 
together  with  such  additional  information  as  was  gained  from  other 
sources,  will  form  an  appropriate  introduction  to  the  account  of  their 
tours. 

The  interior  of  the  country,  for  a  distance  of  sixty  or  eighty  miles 
to  the  north  and  south  of  Sydney,  presents  the  same  characters  which 
have  just  been  described,  except  that  deep  gorges  are  from  time  to 
time  met  with,  and  that  some  parts  of  it  are  of  a  more  undulating 
character. 

On  proceeding  inwards  from  the  coast,  the  country  at  a  distance 
seems  to  be  traversed  by  ridges,  but  on  approaching  their  apparent 
position,  they  melt  away  into  rounded  elevations,  of  very  gradual 
inclination.  Still  farther  to  the  westward,  the  undulating  region  is 
bounded  by  inaccessible  declivities  and  lofty  mural  precipices.  These 
are  the  edges  of  the  Blue  Mountains,  which  are  seen  from  Sydney, 
skirting  the  horizon  like  low  hills,  which  have  so  little  appearance  of 
elevation  that  it  at  first  seems  to  be  difficult  to  conjecture  how  they 
came  to  be  called  mountains,  when  seen  only  from  the  coast.  This 
ridge  runs  north  and  south,  and  rises  at  some  points  to  the  height  of 
three  thousand  five  hundred  feet. 

It  is  not  many  years  since  this  ridge  was  considered  as  inaccessible, 
and  the  deep  gorges  which  intersect  its  sandstone  rocks  as  impassable. 
Its  peaks  rise  in  many  places  abruptly,  and  present  such  difficulties,  as 
to  have  deterred  travellers  from  attempting  to  scale  their  summits,  or 
from  seeking  a  passage  through  the  ravines,  which  in  the  season  of 
rains  are  swept  by  impetuous  torrents. 

The  same  description  will  apply  to  the  mountains  which  bound  the 
Illawarra  district  to  the  west,  where  sandstone  also  occurs,  broken 
into  precipitous  heights,  and  deep  gorges.  At  the  Kangaroo  Pass, 
the  Illawarra  Mountain  is  nearly  two  thousand  feet  high ;  its  rapid 
acclivity  is  covered  with  a  dense  vegetation,  until  within  three  hundred 
feet  of  the  summit ;  whence  upwards  a  perpendicular  face  of  rock  is 
exposed.  The  path  through  this  pass  winds  among  the  narrow  breaks 
of  the  rock,  and  is  toilsome  to  both  beast  and  rider. 

In  one  of  the  gorges  which  open  upon  this  pass  is  a  beautiful  water- 
fall. The  deep  narrow  glen  opens  abruptly  upon  the  passenger,  and 
exhibits  its  bare  rocks,  and  the  tiny  stream  is  seen  leaping  from  one 
projection  of  the  rocky  shelves  to  another,  which  break  its  headlong 
course,  until,  lost  in  spray,  it  reaches  the  bottom,  where  its  waters 
collect,  at  the  depth  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  below  its  upper  edge, 


N  E  W    S  O  U  T  II    W  A  L  E  S.  l(jg 

in  a  limpid  pool.  This  gorge  opens  to  the  westward,  and  looks  out 
upon  a  mountain  range. 

Seven  miles  further,  a  descent  by  a  similar  path  leads  into  the 
Kangaroo  Valley.  This  valley  is  nearly  twenty  miles  in  length,  and 
has  an  average  breadth  of  about  three  miles ;  it  is  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  vertical  precipices,  from  one  thousand  to  one  thousand  eight 
hundred  feet  in  height. 

In  consequence  of  the  aridity  which  has  been  mentioned  as  a 
character  of  the  soil  about  Sydney,  and  which  is  also  a  prevailing 
character  throughout  the  rest  of  the  country,  there  are  many  con- 
tinuous miles  of  waste  lands,  which  by  the  inhabitants  are  called 
"  forests."  These  are  very  different  from  what  we  understand  by  the 
term,  and  consist  of  gum  trees  (Eucalypti),  so  widely  scattered  that  a 
carriage  may  be  driven  rapidly  through  them  without  meeting  any 
obstruction,  while  the  foliage  of  these  trees  is  so  thin  and  apparently 
so  dried  up  as  scarcely  to  cast  a  shade.  Thus  miles  may  be  traversed 
in  these  forests  without  impediment.  A  few  marshy  spots  are  occa- 
sionally seen,  covered  with  thickets  of  brush ;  and  in  other  places  there 
are  tracts  so  dry  that  even  the  gum  tree  will  not  grow  upon  them,  and 
which  receive  the  direct  and  scorching  rays  of  the  sun. 

The  exceptions  to  this  general  character  are  found  in  the  occasional 
rising  of  basalt  in  conical  peaks.  The  productions  of  the  soil  where 
this  rock  prevails,  are  in  striking  contrast  to  those  of  the  arid  lands  of 
the  sandstone  formations ;  and  the  geological  character  of  a  basaltic 
ridge  can  be  detected  at  a  distance  by  the  luxuriant  vegetation  with 
which  it  is  clothed.  These  ridges  become  more  and  more  frequent  as 
the  distance  from  the  coast  increases,  and  are  occasionally  interspersed 
with  granite. 

The  latter  rock  is  first  seen  in  the  Clwyd  Valley,  near  Mount 
Victoria,  and  about  eighty  miles  from  Sydney.  This  valley  lies  in  the 
western  mountain  range,  which  separates  the  waters  that  flow  towards 
the  east  and  west.  The  land  falls  gradually  to  the  westward,  until,  in 
the  Darling  Valley,  at  a  distance  of  four  hundred  miles,  it  is  only  about 
four  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 

For  some  distance  beyond  Mount  Victoria,  granite  characterizes 
some  extensive  ridges,  and  basaltic  mountains  are  occasionally  com- 
bined with  those  of  granite. 

Beyond  Bathurst,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  to  the  west 
of  Sydney,  a  compact  limestone,  in  which  there  are  many  caverns, 
occurs  between  ridges  of  granite  and  basalt ;  but,  according  to  Major 
Mitchell,  the  sandstone  reappears  on  proceeding  further  west,  towards 

VOL.  n.  22 


1 70  NEW   SOUTH   WALE& 

the  Darling  Valley,  and  is  accompanied  by  the  same  sterility  as  upon 
the  coast. 

Before  reaching  the  western  barrens  there  are  many  fine  and  fertile 
valleys,  among  which,  besides  Bathurst,  is  that  of  Wellington,  distant 
about  two  hundred  miles  from  Sydney.  Both  of  these  are  already 
settled. 

As  to  the  more  remote  parts  of  the  interior  of  New  Holland,  no 
positive  knowledge  has  yet  been  obtained.  The  prevailing  opinion 
appears  to  be,  that  an  extensive  desert  extends  throughout  it ;  and  this 
opinion  is  supported  by  citing  the  dry  and  scorching  character  of  the 
winds  which  blow  from  the  west.  The  greatest  distance  to  the  west- 
ward which  has  been  explored,  is  only  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 
which  is  not  a  fourth  part  of  the  distance  to  the  western  coast.  It 
will  thus  be  seen  that  a  vast  field  of  discovery  is  still  open,  which  will 
no  doubt  be  ere  long  explored,  under  the  auspices  of  the  British 
government. 

To  the  southwest  of  Sydney  the  same  compact  limestone  seen  at 
Bathurst  makes  its  appearance  at  Argyle,  also  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  distant  from  the  former  place.  This  stone  yields  lime  of 
good  quality,  and  is  also  a  valuable  material  for  building. 

According  to  the  best  accounts,  the  range  of  granite  appears  to 
begin  in  Van  Diemen's  Land,  and  after  being  interrupted  by  Bass's 
Straits,  runs  through  New  South  Wales  in  a  broad  belt.  Near  Bass's 
Straits  it  rises  into  a  lofty  group  of  mountains,  called  the  Australian 
Alps,  the  only  snowy  ridge  known  in  Australia,  and  continuing  thence 
northward,  it  forms  the  dividing  range  of  the  waters. 

The  basaltic  ridges  of  this  southern  region  are  said  occasionally  to 
reach  a  height  of  four  thousand  feet,  and  a  limestone  similar  to  that 
of  Argyle  and  Bathurst,  which  contains  many  fossils,  extends  to  the 
"  Limestone  Plains,"  where  it  is  succeeded  by  the  usual  sandstone. 
How  far  this  limestone  extends  to  the  southward  has  not  been  ascer- 
tained. The  finest  districts  in  this  southern  section  are  those  of  Port 
Philip,  Argyle,  Bass,  and  Bong-Bong. 

To  the  northward,  beyond  the  Hunter  river,  the  country  is  inter- 
sected by  basaltic  ridges,  which  increase  in  number  until  they  merge 
in  the  Liverpool  Mountains,  of  which  many  of  them  are  spurs. 
Between  these  ridges,  and  to  the  north  of  the  Goulburn  branch,  sand- 
stone again  prevails,  and  forms  a  great  extent  of  barren  country;  but 
the  smaller  valleys  being  generally  bordered  by  ridges  of  basalt,  are 
for  the  most  part  fertile. 

The  Liverpool  range  of  mountains,  although  it  has  been  traced  for 


N  E  W    SOUTH    W  AL  E  S.  171 

many  miles  in  an  east  and  west  direction,  is  said  by  Major  Mitchell 
to  be  a  prolongation  of  the  range  which  runs  parallel  to  the  coast. 
According  to  him,  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  miles  inland,  the 
range  trends  to  the  northward,  and  thence  pursues  a  course  to  the 
northeast. 

To  the  northward  of  the  Liverpool  range,  plains  of  considerable 
extent  spread  over  the  country,  and  form  the  district  of  New  England, 
which  affords  fine  pasturage.  These  plains  lie  at  an  altitude  of  be- 
tween two  and  three  thousand  feet,  and  from  that  circumstance  enjoy 
a  much  cooler  climate  than  Sydney,  although  five  degrees  nearer  the 
equator. 

The  most  remarkable  part  of  New  South  Wales  is  the  district  of 
Illawarra,  situated  on  the  coast,  about  sixty  miles  to  the  south  of  Port 
Jackson.  This  is  a  narrow  strip,  that  seems  to  be  formed  by  the 
retreat  of  the  sandstone  cliffs  from  the  sea,  to  a  distance  which  varies 
from  one  to  ten  miles.  The  cliffs  or  mountains  vary  in  height  from 
one  thousand  to  two  thousand  feet.  This  region  is  extremely  fruitful ; 
its  forests  are  rich  with  a  great  variety  of  foliage,  and  of  creeping 
plants  which  twine  around  the  trees.  The  great  size  and  number  of 
the  trees  served  to  remind  the  gentlemen  who  visited  it,  of  the  vege- 
tation of  the  tropical  islands,  luxuriant  with  tree-ferns,  bananas, 
banyans,  &c.  This  luxuriance  is  in  part  owing  to  a  rich  and  light 
soil,  composed  of  decomposed  basalt  and  argillaceous  sandstone,  mixed 
with  vegetable  mould,  but  more  to  the  peculiarity  of  its  climate.  The 
high  cliffs  which  bound  it  to  the  west,  keep  off  the  scorching  winds 
which  reach  other  parts  of  the  coast  from  that  quarter,  and  the  moisture 
of  the  sea-breeze  intercepted  by  them,  is  condensed,  falling  in  gentle 
showers.  For  this  reason,  it  is  not  subject  to  the  long  and  frequent 
droughts  that  occur  in  other  parts  of  New  South  Wales. 

These  droughts  are  sometimes  of  such  long  continuance,  that  we  at 
one  time  read  of  the  whole  country  having  been  burnt  up  for  want  of 
rain,  a  famine  threatened,  and  the  sheep  and  cattle  perishing  in  im- 
mense numbers. 

These  have  been  succeeded  by  long-continued  rains,  which  have 
raised  the  rivers  thirty  or  forty  feet,  flooded  the  whole  country,  deluged 
the  towns  and  villages,  and  completely  destroyed  the  crops.  Such 
floods  carry  with  them  houses,  barns,  stacks  of  grain,  &c.,  drown  the 
cattle,  and  even  the  inhabitants  are  in  some  cases  saved  only  by  being 
taken  from  the  tops  of  their  houses  in  boats. 

The  year  of  our  visit,  1839,  added  another  instance  to  the  list  of 
disasters  of  the  latter  kind ;  and  the  published  accounts  state  that 
twenty  thousand  sheep  were  lost  in  the  valley  of  the  Hawkesbury  by 


172  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

the  floods.  Such  evils  indeed  appear  to  be  of  frequent  occurrence, 
and  the  settler  in  New  South  Wales  has  to  contend  with  the  elements 
in  an  unusual  degree. 

Such  disasters  are  equally  injurious  to  the  husbandman  and  the 
wool-grower;  for  the  same  cause  that  destroys  the  crops,  also  carries 
off  the  stock,  so  that  it  is  only  the  large  capitalist  who  can  successfully 
struggle  against  or  overcome  such  adverse  circumstances.  It  is  some 
recompense  for  this  state  of  things,  that  one  or  two  favourable  years 
will  completely  repay  all  former  losses ;  and  it  is  due  to  the  perseverance 
and  industry  of  the  inhabitants  of  New  South  Wales  to  say,  that  they 
have  already,  in  spite  of  the  difficulties  they  have  had  to  encounter, 
made  it  one  of  the  most  flourishing  colonies  on  the  globe. 

What  these  difficulties  are,  may  be  better  understood  by  quoting  some 
remarks  of  Major  Mitchell,  the  Surveyor-General,  who  has  had  greater 
opportunities  than  any  other  person  of  examining  the  country,  every 
accessible  portion  of  which  he  has  visited. 

"  Sandstone  prevails  so  much  more  than  trap,  limestone,  or  granite, 
as  to  cover  six-sevenths  of  the  whole  surface  comprised  within  the 
boundaries  of  nineteen  counties,  from  Yass  Plains  in  the  south,  to  the 
Liverpool  range  in  the  north.  Wherever  this  happens  to  be  the 
surface,  little  besides  barren  sand  is  found  in  the  place  of  soil. 
Deciduous  vegetation  scarcely  exists  there ;  no  turf  is  found,  for  the 
trees  and  shrubs  being  very  inflammable,  conflagrations  take  place  so 
frequently  and  extensively  in  the  woods  during  summer,  as  to  leave 
very  little  vegetable  matter  to  turn  to  earth. 

"  In  the  regions  of  sandstone,  the  territory  is  in  short  good  for 
nothing,  and  is,  besides,  generally  inaccessible ;  thus  presenting  a 
formidable  obstruction  to  any  communication  between  spots  of  a 
better  description." 

The  information  obtained  from  other  sources  does  not,  however, 
sustain  so  very  unfavourable  a  picture;  it  may,  indeed,  be  true,  when 
applied  to  the  labours  of  husbandry  alone,  but  there  is  reason  to  believe, 
on  the  other  hand,  that  the  excellence  of  the  great  staple  of  the  country, 
its  wool,  is  in  a  great  measure  to  be  ascribed  to  the  short  and  sweet 
pasturage  which  these  very  sandstone  districts  afford.  These  lands 
produce,  except  during  the  prevalence  of  excessive  droughts,  a 
nutritious  herbage,  and  form  a  dry  healthy  soil,  on  which  sheep  thrive 
particularly  well,  although  it  is  said  that  one  hundred  acres  of  this 
description,  of  average  quality,  will  not  support  more  than  five  or  six 
head  of  cattle. 

In  seasons  of  drought,  the  flocks  and  herds  are  driven  into  the 
interior  The  year  of  our  visit  (1839)  was  accounted  a  wet  one,  and 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  173 

some  parts  of  the  sandstone  district  which  produced  good  crops  of 
grain,*  in  drier  seasons  would  have  been  dry  to  barrenness. 

In  such  a  climate  it  is  not  surprising  that  there  are  hardly  any  streams 
that  merit  the  name  of  rivers.  It  is  necessary  to  guard  against  being 
misled  by  the  inspection  of  maps  of  the  country,  and  forming  from  them 
the  idea  that  it  is  well  watered.  Such  an  impression  would  be  erro- 
neous, and  yet  the  maps  are  not  inaccurate ;  streams  do  at  times  exist 
in  the  places  where  they  are  laid  down  on  the  maps,  but  for  the  greater 
part  of  every  year  no  more  is  to  be  seen  than  the  beds  or  courses,  in 
which,  during  the  season  of  floods,  or  after  long-continued  rains, 
absolute  torrents  of  w-ater  flow,  but  which  will  within  the  short  space 
of  a  month  again  become  a  string  of  deep  pools.  Were  it  not  for  this 
peculiar  provision  of  nature,  the  country  for  the  greater  part  of  the 
year  would  be  without  water,  and,  consequently,  uninhabitable. 

The  principal  rivers  which  are  found  to  the  east  of  the  Blue  Moun- 
tains are,  the  Hunter,  George,  Shoalham,  and  Hawkesbury.  None  of 
these  streams  are  navigable  further  than  the  tide  flows  in  the  estuaries, 
which  sometimes  extend  twenty  or  thirty  miles  inland,  for  beyond  them 
they  are  usually  no  more  than  twenty  inches  in  depth.  Each  of  these 
streams  has  numerous  tributaries,  which  drain  a  large  area  of  country, 
and  during  heavy  rains  the  main  branches  are  suddenly  swelled,  and 
cause  the  floods  which  have  been  spoken  of.  To  the  west  of  the 
mountains,  the  water-courses  are  of  a  very  different  character.  The 
Darling,  for  instance,  through  a  course  of  seven  hundred  miles,  does 
not  receive  a  single  tributary,  although  it  is  said  to  drain  an  extent  of 
sixty  thousand  square  miles.  It  possesses  the  other  character  which 
has  been  mentioned,  of  being  frequently  reduced  to  a  mere  string  of 
pools.  The  Darling,  Morrumbidgee,  and  Lachlan,  unite  about  one 
hundred  miles  from  the  ocean,  and  their  joint  stream  is  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Murray,  which  after  passing  through  Lake  Alexandria, 
enters  the  sea  at  Encounter  Bay.  The  surface  drained  by  these  streams 
is  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  square  miles. 

Another  remarkable  occurrence  observed  in  these  western  waters,  is 
the  disappearance  of  a  river  in  swampy  lands,  where,  as  is  supposed, 
it  is  swallowed  up  by  the  caverns  in  the  limestone  rocks.  This  is  the 
case  with  the  Macquarie,  which  has  its  source  near  Bathurst. 

According  to  all  accounts,  salt  is  very  generally  diffused  throughout 
New  South  Wales,  and  even  all  Australia.  It  has  been  reported  as 
being  found  in  masses  in  the  sandstone,  but  no  specimens  of  it  were 

*  In  the  diluvial  flats  along  the  rivers,  the  wheat  crop  is  usually  about  twenty-five 
bushels  to  the  acre.  Forty  to  forty-five  bushels  have  been  obtained,  but  such  crops  are 
very  unusual. 


174  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

obtained  by  the  Expedition.  Scarcely  a  well  is  dug  in  the  interior 
\vhich  is  not  brackish ;  and,  according  to  Major  Mitchell,  Captain 
Sturt,  Oxley,  and  others,  many  of  the  rivers  are  quite  saline  in  parts 
of  their  course.  The  northern  tributaries  of  the  Hunter  and  Darling 
are  instances  of  this. 

The  lakes  are  also  said  to  be  saline,  and  in  some  instances  suffi- 
ciently strong  to  afford  a  large  and  profitable  yield  of  salt ;  but  being 
very  far  in  the  interior,  and  without  the  means  of  transportation,  they 
are  of  little  value.  Along  the  south  coast  of  Australia,  such  lakes  are 
described  as  existing  near  the  sea,  and  may  possibly  prove  of  some 
value  to  that  portion  of  New  Holland. 

Lead  and  iron  have  been  found  in  small  quantities ;  the  deposits  of 
the  former  are  all  trifling.  Those  of  the  latter  afford  too  impure  an 
ore,  and  not  in  sufficient  abundance,  to  be  worked. 

The  minerals  stated  to  be  found  in  Australia,  specimens  of  which 
were  procured  for  the  Expedition,  are,  chalcedony,  agates,  jasper, 
quartz,  augite,  and  stilbite ;  feldspar,  arragonite,  gypsum,  chlorite,  mica 
in  granite;  sulphur  and  alum,  galena  and  plumbago,  magnetic  iron, 
iron  pyrites,  and  basalt. 

Fossils  appear  to  be  confined  to  particular  localities,  but  are  by  no 
means  rare. 

Columns  of  basalt  of  great  regularity  are  found  on  the  coast  of 
Illawarra,  but  the  articulations  are  all  plane. 

The  water  is  much  impregnated  with  alum  and  iron,  and  its  use  is 
avoided  by  the  inhabitants. 

Deserts  covered  with  saline  plants  are  said  to  be  frequently  met  with. 

Mitchell,  in  his  travels  in  New  South  Wales,  speaks  of  the  different 
heights  of  the  ranges  of  mountains  in  this  country,  some  of  them  in 
the  southern  and  some  in  the  eastern  portion  as  being  covered  with 
snow,  and  rising  four  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  To 
the  Blue  Mountain  range  he  ascribes  a  height  of  three  thousand  four 
hundred  feet,  composed  entirely  of  sand ;  beyond  this  the  granite  or 
dividing  range  occurs,  which  is  only  two  thousand  two  hundred  feet 
in  height.  The  Canobolus  Mountains,  further  to  the  westward,  are 
four  thousand  four  hundred  and  sixty-one  feet  high,  and  of  primitive 
rock ;  beyond  these,  the  extensive  plains  of  the  interior,  the  valley  of 
Millewa  or  Murray  river,  seem  again  to  be  entirely  composed  of 
sedimentary  rocks,  similar  to  the  sandstone  of  the  coast. 

The  climate  of  Australia  may  be  considered  generally  as  very  dry; 
the  irregularity  of  the  rains,  and  the  nature  of  the  soil,  all  prove  that 
it  is  so ;  yet  the  aridity  is  not  marked,  as  in  other  countries,  by  a 
general  tendency  in  the  plants  to  produce  thorns,  although  the  pecu- 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  175 

liarity  of  the  vegetation  makes  the  dry  ness  apparent  in  other  ways. 
From  all  accounts,  New  South  Wales  is  subject  to  as  great  atmo- 
spheric vicissitudes,  as  the  middle  United  States.  For  a  series  of 
years,  droughts  will  occur,  which  in  turn  give  place  to  years  of 
successive  floods,  and  these  prevail  to  an  extent  that  can  hardly  be 
credited,  were  it  not  that  the  account  has  been  received  from  good 
authority.  As  a  striking  instance  of  it,  Oxley,  in  his  exploring 
journeys  into  the  interior,  in  1817,  found  the  country  every  where 
overflowed,  so  as  to  prevent  him  from  proceeding;  while  Mitchell, 
in  1835,  in  the  same  districts,  was  continually  in  danger  of  perishing 
from  thirst.  The  latter  states  that  he  found  unios  (or  fresh-water 
mussels)  sticking  in  the  banks  of  rivers  and  ponds  above  the  level  of 
the  water ;  and  also  dead  trees  and  saplings  in  similar  situations. 

This  alternate  change  must  exert  a  great  influence  on  the  produc- 
tions of  the  soil ;  the  rivers  ceasing  to  flow,  and  their  beds  becoming 
as  it  were  dry,  with  the  exception  of  the  pools  heretofore  spoken  of, 
must  likewise  have  an  influence.  The  prevailing  westerly  winds 
sweep  with  force  over  the  whole  country,  blighting  all  they  touch. 
The  effect  of  these  hot  winds  is  remarkable,  for  they  will  in  a  few 
hours  entirely  destroy  the  crops,  by  extracting  all  the  moisture  from 
the  grain,  even  after  it  is  formed,  and  almost  ready  for  harvest;  and 
the  only  portion  that  is  left  is  that  which  has  been  sheltered  by  trees, 
hedges,  or  fences.  They  thus  destroy  the  prospect  of  the  husband- 
man when  his  crops  are  ready  for  the  sickle.  It  is  thought,  and  I 
should  imagine  with  reason,  that  were  the  Blue  Mountains  a  more 
lofty  range,  this  would  not  be  the  case,  as  they  would  have  a  tendency 
to  continue  the  supplies  to  the  streams  throughout  the  year,  by  the 
condensation  of  the  vapour  from  the  sea. 

These  hot  winds  come  from  the  direction  of  the  Blue  Mountains, 
and,  what  seems  remarkable,  are  not  felt  on  the  other  side  of  the 
mountains,  or  in  their  immediate  vicinity.  Yet  the  extent  between 
the  coast  and  the  mountains  is  not  sufficient  to  produce  these  winds, 
being  only  forty-five  miles;  and  if  they  proceed  from  the  interior, 
they  must  pass  over  those  mountains,  an  elevation  in  some  places  of 
three  thousand  four  hundred  feet.  Their  great  destructiveness  is 
undoubtedly  caused  by  their  capacity  for  moisture,  although  few 
observations  have  as  yet  (as  far  as  I  was  able  to  obtain  information) 
been  made  upon  them,  except  in  relation  to  the  blight  they  occasion. 
It  has  been  found  that  fields  which  have  a  line  of  woods  on  the  side 
whence  they  blow,  escape  injury.  The  harvest  immediately  on  the 
line  of  the  coast  does  not  suffer  so  much,  being  exempted  in  part  from 
their  withering  influence  by  the  moisture  that  is  imbibed  from  the  sea. 


170  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

There  is  a  portion  of  this  country  that  is  an  exception  to  the  general 
rule  of  aridity,  namely,  the  district  of  Illawarra.  This  forms  a  belt  of 
from  one  to  ten  miles  wide,  and  has  the  range  of  the  Kangaroo  Hills 
just  behind  it,  of  one  thousand  feet ;  these  are  sufficiently  high  at  this 
distance  from  the  coast  to  condense  the  moisture,  and  also  to  protect 
the  district  from  the  blighting  effects  of  the  blasts  from  the  interior. 

One  is  entirely  unprepared  for  the  alleged  facts  in  relation  to  this 
country  ;  for  instance,  Mitchell,  in  his  journey  to  the  south  and  west, 
during  the  four  winter  months,  witnessed  no  precipitation  of  moisture 
except  frosts  in  the  mornings,  and  the  thermometer  was  often  below 
the  freezing  point.  Violent  winds  occur,  which  have  obtained  the 
name  of  brick-fielders.  They  are  nothing  more  than  a  kind  of  gust, 
peculiar  to  the  environs  of  Sydney,  after  a  sultry  day.  During  one  of 
these  gusts  little  or  no  rain  falls,  though  the  wind  frequently  approaches 
a  hurricane  in  force.  These  winds  get  their  name  from  bringing  the 
dust  from  the  brick-fields,  formerly  in  the  suburbs  of  Sydney,  but  which 
are  now  almost  entirely  built  over.  The  temperature  during  the  blow 
generally  falls  twenty  or  twenty-five  degrees,  in  the  space  of  as  many 
minutes;  the  dust  is  very  great,  and  the  wind  so  strong,  as  to  cause 
apprehension  lest  the  houses  should  be  unroofed,  or  the  chimneys 
thrown  down.  Our  standard  barometer  was  carefully  watched  during 
the  coming  on  of  two  of  these  gusts,  and  found  to  fall  0-200  in.,  the 
first  time  ;  and  the  second  only  0-020  in. ;  but  the  temperature  fell  each 
time  about  ten  degrees.  They  were  not,  however,  true  brick-fielders, 
or  such  as  a  resident  would  so  denominate. 

Snow  has  been  known  to  fall  in  Sydney,  but  so  rarely,  that  we  were 
told  some  of  the  inhabitants  were  doubtful  as  to  its  nature.  On  the 
mountains  it  is  not  uncommon,  and  in  the  winter  season  is  always  seen 
on  those  in  the  New  England  district,  which,  although  three  or  four 
degrees  to  the  northward  of  Sydney,  enjoys  a  much  cooler  climate. 

Major  Mitchell  often  found  that  the  temperature  exceeded  100°  of 
Fahrenheit.  The  heat  was,  of  course,  very  oppressive,  and  more  so 
on  account  of  the  little  shade  the  native  trees  afford.  The  difference 
of  temperature  between  the  day  and  night  is  great,  but  upon  this  point 
I  was  able  to  get  but  little  information  ;  the  meteorological  registers  that 
have  been  kept  at  Sydney,  have  omitted  the  night  hours  altogether. 

I  have  been  favoured  since  my  return  with  the  abstract  returns  of 
the  meteorological  registers  during  parts  of  the  years  1810  and  '41, 
kept  at  the  South  Head  of  Port  Jackson,  two  hundred  and  fifty-four 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Being  kept  immediately  at  the  sea- 
coast,  this  record  does  not  furnish  so  satisfactory  an  account  of  the 
climate,  as  if  the  place  of  observation  had  been  farther  in  the  interior. 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  177 

I  have  also  those  kept  at  Port  Macquarie,  to  the  north,  and  at  Port 
Philip,  to  the  south  ;  the  following  are  some  of  the  results  from  them. 

During  the  winter  months,  June,  July,  August,  and  September,  on 
the  eastern  coast,  they  have  the  winds  from  the  south  to  the  west 
quarter,  blowing  strong  and  cold,  not  unlike  our  northeast  winds, 
accompanied  by  rain.  The  quantity  of  rain  which  fell  in  the  winter 
of  1840  was  35-25  inches;  in  1841,45-00  inches.  The  temperature 
during  this  season  is  from  40°  to  78°,  mean  temperature,  66°.  During 
the  summer  months,  October,  November,  December,  January,  and 
February,  easterly  winds  prevail,  and  the  temperature  varies  from  56° 
to  90°  ;  the  mean  temperature  being  about  78°.  On  the  south  coast, 
as  appears  from  the  tables  kept  at  Port  Philip,  the  winds  pursue  a 
reversed  order ;  for  during  the  summer  months  they  are  found  to  pre- 
vail from  the  southward  and  westward,  whilst  in  winter  they  come 
from  the  eastward.  The  mean  standing  of  the  barometer  seems  to  be 
higher  at  Port  Philip  than  at  Port  Jackson  and  Port  Macquarie ;  its 
range  is  within  0-5  in.,  and  at  the  two  latter  places  it  seldom  reached 
30-000  in.  During  our  stay  at  Sydney,  the  range  of  the  barometer 
was  generally  higher  than  this.  The  temperature  of  the  winter  months 
varies  from  35°  to  65°:  the  mean  is  about  47°;  and  that  of  the  summer 
months  from  50°  to  98°,  the  mean  being  68°. 

The  above  observations  relative  to  the  winds  •  on  the  south  and 
eastern  coast,  will  serve  to  explain  some  of  the  difficulties  that  have 
resulted  from  vessels  taking  the  southern  route  round  New  Holland,  to 
proceed  west.  These,  during  some  seasons  of  the  year,  have  met 
constant  head  winds  and  storms.  It  would  seem  that  the  most  feasible 
time  to  make  the  southern  passage  to  the  westward,  is  during  the 
winter  months.  The  probable  cause  of  this  difference  is  the  immense 
vacuum  which  is  formed  on  the  vast  plains  in  the  interior  of  New 
Holland  during  the  summer,  that  is  supplied  by  these  southerly  winds. 
But  it  is  not  altogether  certain  that  these  winds  prevail  at  any  distance 
from  the  land.  They  were  described  to  me  rather  as  regular  breezes, 
prevailing  during  the  day,  moderating  towards  night,  and  succeeded 
by  light  land-winds  until  the  following  morning.  The  intermediate 
months  between  the  summer  and  winter,  or  those  about  the  equinoxes, 
are  attended  with  variable  winds  and  uncertain  weather,  but  from 
information  I  received,  they  do  not  appear  to  suffer  here  from  very 
violent  gales  during  these  seasons.  Severe  gales  are,  however,  expe- 
rienced at  these  seasons  at  New  Zealand,  in  the  same  latitude,  of 
which  I  shall  speak  hereafter. 

Our  own  results  for  the  time  we  stayed  in  Australia  will  be  found 
under  their  appropriate  head.  At  Sydney  I  found  a  great  variety  of 

VOL.  n.  23 


178  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

opinions  existing  about  the  climate.  During  our  stay,  the  weather  was 
unfavourable  for  all  astronomical  observations,  and  almost  the  whole 
time  cloudy  or  rainy.  It  was  amusing  to  find  many  of  those  to  whom 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  an  introduction,  apologizing  for  the  badness  of 
the  weather.  It  brought  forcibly  to  my  recollection,  the  fault  that 
Captain  Basil  Hall  finds  with  the  people  of  the  United  States,  but  was 
far  from  being  annoying  to  me.  I  have  but  little  doubt,  that  the 
climate  is,  generally  speaking,  a  healthy  one,  and  not  unlike  that  of 
some  parts  of  our  own  country.  The  colony  is  subject  to  occasional 
epidemics,  and  from  the  best  information  I  could  procure,  it  is  thought 
that  the  mortality  is  about  one  in  forty-three ;  this  may  be  called  a 
very  small  proportion,  when  one  takes  into  consideration  the  great 
quantity  of  ardent  spirits  that  is  consumed. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  vegetation  of  New  South  Wales 
presents  many  peculiarities.  The  character  of  its  productions  is 
totally  distinct  from  those  of  the  other  portions  of  the  globe.  The 
gum  trees,  Norfolk  pines,  and  those  of  Moreton  Bay,  attract  attention 
from  their  scattered  appearance,  and  peculiar  foliage.  All  these  have 
a  dark  and  sombre  hue.  A  remark  made  by  one  of  our  gentlemen  is 
characteristic  of  the  former,  "  that  they  were  ghosts  of  trees."  The 
leaves  being  set  edgewise  causes  this  appearance,  and  in  consequence 
give  little  or  no  shade.  This  peculiar  position  of  the  leaf  is  more 
conspicuous  in  the  Eucalypti  than  in  other  genera,  for  in  them  the 
leaves  are  all  pendant,  while  the  leaves  in  the  other  genera  are  usually 
upright,  rigid,  and  somewhat  as  may  be  seen  in  the  acacias  and  other 
tribes.  It  was  observed  that  both  surfaces  of  the  leaves  were  much 
alike,  having  as  it  were,  two  upper  surfaces.  Whether  any  physiolo- 
gical purpose  has  been  assigned  for  such  an  arrangement  I  have  not 
been  informed. 

According  to  observations  made  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  Expedition, 
the  great  mass  of  the  vegetation  of  Australia  belongs  to  the  natural 
orders  of  Myrtacese,  Lcguminosao,  Proteacea?,  Epacridea?,  and  Com- 
posilro. 

The  most  common  genera  are  Eucalyptus  and  Acacia.  Many 
trees  of  one  of  the  species  of  the  former  genus  were  seen  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  with  a  girth,  about  six  feet  from  the 
ground,  of  eighteen  feet.  This  species  is  called  by  the  settlers  black 
gum,  and  is  much  used  for  domestic  purposes,  particularly  its  bark, 
with  which  they  cover  their  huts  and  houses.  The  dilated  foliaceous 
acacias  are  very  numerous,  and  are  objects  of  attraction  from  their 
gay  and  fragrant  blossoms.  The  trees  which  present  the  greatest 
variety  of  species,  are  those  known  as  gum  trees,  viz. :  blue  gum, 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  179 

gray  gum,  flooded  gum,  iron  bark,  and  stringy  bark.  The  leaves  of 
these  gum  trees  have  a  powerful  aromatic  flavour,  and  a  taste  ap- 
proaching to  camphor.  They  are  used  in  the  colony  for  a  variety  of 
purposes,  according  to  their  quality.  Thus,  the  blue  gum,  (Eucalyptus 
piperita,)  is  employed  for  ship-building ;  the  iron  gum,  (Eucalyptus 
resinifera,)  for  fencing ;  and  the  gray  gum  and  black-butted  gum,  for 
boards  and  plank. 

The  Norfolk  Island  pine,  (Araucaria  excelsa,)  is  used  for  cabinet- 
work; the  swamp  oak,  (Casuarina  torulosa,)  for  shingles  and  cabinet- 
work, as  is  the  cedar  (Cedrela  australis,)  which  grows  to  a  very  large 
size  ;  the  turpentine-wood,  (Tristania  arbicans,)  for  boat  building ;  the 
pear  tree,  (Xylomelum  pyriforme,)  the  apple,  (Angophora  lanceolata,) 
the  mountain-ash,  sallow,  sassafras,  and  several  kinds  of  wood  which 
they  called  "  Curagong,"  were  also  observed  in  use,  but  the  trees  were 
not  seen. 

The  grass  tree  (Xanthorrhcca  hastilis)  did  not  equal  our  expecta- 
tions, which  were  probably  too  highly  raised  by  the  descriptions  of 
those  who  had  gone  before  us ;  yet  when  in  flower  it  must  be  a  con- 
spicuous object,  and  in  all  stages  of  growth  suits  well  for  the  fore- 
ground of  a  picture. 

Among  the  most  singular  of  the  productions  of  Australia  are  the 
wooden  pears,  as  they  are  called.  These  have  a  close  external  resem- 
blance to  the  fruit  whose  name  they  bear,  but  are  ligneous  within. 
Another  of  the  fruits  is  a  cherry,  whose  stone  is  external,  and  would  be 
similar  to  our  fruit  of  that  name  were  the  kernel  in  its  proper  place. 
The  pit  adheres  firmly  to  the  pulp,  which  is  of  the  size  of  a  pistol- 
bullet,  but  the  fruit  shrinks  when  ripe  to  that  of  a  buck-shot.  The  pear 
grows  on  a  low  shrub,  the  cherry  on  a  large  bush. 

I  have  before  remarked  how  different  the  "  forest,"  so  called  in  New 
South  Wales,  is  from  what  is  understood  by  the  term  elsewhere.  The 
want  of  close  growth  is  not  the  only  remarkable  appearance,  but  the 
absence  of  all  decayed  foliage  is  also  extraordinary.  The  ground  is 
clear  of  any  fallen  leaves,  and  every  thing  betokens  that  perennial 
verdure  is  here  the  order  of  things.  These  two  features  combined, 
give  the  forests  of  Australia  the  air  of  a  neatly-kept  park.  Annual 
plants,  (if  so  they  can  be  called,)  abound  in  the  forest,  requiring,  it  is 
said,  more  than  a  single  year  to  bring  their  seeds  to  maturity.  There 
were  instances  we  were  told  of  crops  of  grain  remaining  three  years 
in  the  ground.  A  few  plants  found  in  other  parts  of  the  world,  are,  it 
is  well  known,  only  brought  into  existence  after  a  lapse  of  years,  and 
others  give  repeated  crops  during  the  same  year.  That  these  types,  so 
rare  in  other  countries,  should  be  abundant  in  Australia,  is  not  remark- 


180  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

able,  when  it  is  considered  that  they  are  but  instances  of  an  almost 
complete  diversity  between  the  natural  history  of  this  country  and  that 
of  other  regions. 

The  timber  of  the  Australian  trees  is  generally  of  greater  specific 
gravity  than  water. 

The  remark,  that  the  leaves  of  the  trees  are  wood,  and  their  wood 
iron,  is  not  inappropriate  to  most  of  the  plants  of  this  country.  It  is 
not,  however,  to  be  inferred  that  all  the  plants  are  different  from  those 
of  other  countries ;  so  far  from  this  being  the  case,  a  considerable 
admixture  of  ordinary  forms  was  met  with.  Among  these  were  a  great 
variety  of  grasses,  some  of  which  were  before  considered  to  be  peculiar 
to  North  America.  Many  other  forms  decidedly  North  American  were 
also  met  with,  a  circumstance  which,  from  the  difference  of  geogra- 
phical position,  distance,  and  climate,  was  not  to  be  expected ;  but  for 
these  details  I  must  refer  to  the  Botanical  Report. 

All  seem  to  have  been  struck  with  the  apparent  monotony  of  the 
scenery,  foliage,  and  flora,  although  in  reality  the  latter  presents  great 
variety.  The  general  sentiment  was,  that  they  were  fatigued  by  it, 
which  is  not  a  little  surprising,  as  the  Australian  Flora  rivals  in  number 
of  species  that  of  Brazil.  This  feeling  may  be  accounted  for  by  the 
overpowering  impression  that  is  made  by  the  gum  trees,  whose  foliage 
is  of  a  dark  sombre  green.  There  is  also  something  in  the  general 
absence  of  underbrush  ;  and  the  trees  are  so  distant  from  one  another 
that  there  is  no  need  of  roads,  so  that  a  carriage  may  drive  any 
where. 

The  trees  are  in  general  tall  in  proportion  to  their  diameter,  with  an 
umbrella  top,  and  have  the  appearance  of  being  thinly  clad  in  foliage. 
No  woody  vines  are  to  be  seen,  nor  any  parasitic  plants.  In  many 
places  a  stunted  growth  of  detached  shrubs,  called  in  the  colony 
"scrub,"  exists,  which  might  be  termed  one  of  their  " forests"  in  a 
dwarf  shape. 

In  the  Illawarra  district  a  totally  distinct  state  of  things  exists.  Here 
is  to  be  found  all  the  luxuriance  of  the  tropics — lofty  palms,  among  them 
the  Corypha  australis,  with  tree-ferns  of  two  or  more  varieties,  diffe- 
rent species  of  Ficus,  a  scandent  Piper,  and  very  many  vines.  The 
forest  of  this  district  is  thick,  and  alive  with  animal  life. 

This  district  is  about  fifty  miles  long,  and  forms  a  semicircular  area 
about  thirty  miles  in  its  greatest  width.  The  peculiarity  of  the  situation 
of  this  district  would  tend  to  show  what  would  have  been  the  probable 
state  of  New  Holland,  or  rather  its  eastern  side,  if  the  mountains  were 
sufficiently  high  to  intercept  the  moisture  of  the  ocean,  and  prevent  the 
access  to  it  of  the  dry  hot  winds  from  the  interior.  Illawarra  may  be 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 


181 


termed  the  granary  of  New  South  Wales ;  here  the  crops  seldom  if  ever 
fail,  and  are  very  abundant. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  visiting  the  seat  of  the  Hon.  Mr.  M'Leay. 
It  is  situated  on  Elizabeth  Bay,  beyond  or  within  Wooloomoloo. 
The  house,  which  displays  much  taste,  is  built  of  sandstone,  and  is 
situated  beneath  a  hill,  and  on  a  knoll  about  fifty  feet  above  the 
water.  In  front  of  it  is  a  lawn  bounded  by  a  parapet  wall,  and  between 
this  and  the  water  are  several  acres  of  land  very  tastefully  laid  out  as 
an  arboretum  and  flower-garden.  Copses  of  native  trees  have  been 
judiciously  left  on  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  grounds,  and  not 
only  protect  them  from  the  injurious  winds,  but  add  greatly  to  their 
beauty.  A  splendid  specimen  of  the  Acrostichum  grande,  or  Stag 
horn,  from  Moreton  Bay,  was  seen  suspended  from  a  tree. 


The  garden  is  intersected  by  many  walks,  leading  to  the  best  points 
of  view.     It  contains  many  rare  and  fine  specimens  of  plants  from 


182  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

England,  Mauritius,  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  the  East  Indies,  and 
America.  The  flower-gardens  at  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Sydney 
would  do  credit  to  any  part  of  the  world. 

The  Norfolk  Island  pine,  and  that  from  More  ton  Bay,  (the  Arau- 
caria  Cunninghamii,)  thought  by  some  to  be  as  handsome  a  tree  as  the 
one  from  Norfolk  Island,  were  also  among  the  plantations.  From  the 
flower-garden  a  walk  leads  through  a  lattice-work  bower,  covered  with 
native  Bignonias  and  passion-flowers,  into  the  kitchen  and  fruit-garden. 
These  we  found  well  stocked  with  fruit  and  vegetables  of  almost  all 
European  kinds,  which  seem  to  thrive  particularly  well  here.  The 
kindness,  attention,  and  hospitality,  with  which  we  were  received  and 
treated,  will  long  be  gratefully  remembered.  To  Mr.  M'Leay,  the 
Expedition  is  indebted  for  much  aid,  and  through  him  our  collections 
were  increased.  The  English  oak  thrives  well,  and  many  fine  speci- 
mens of  it  were  seen.  From  the  information  I  have  received,  very 
many  of  the  Australian  plants  succeed  admirably  in  England. 

The  soil  of  Sydney  consists  of  black  mould,  mixed  with  a  clean 
white  sand.  The  quantity  of  sand  is  such,  as  in  the  dry  seasons  to 
affect  the  vegetation.  This  sand  I  understood  is  now  exported  to 
England  at  a  great  profit,  being  found  a  valuable  article  in  the 
manufacture  of  plate  glass.  This  soil,  however,  is  made  to  yield  a 
plentiful  supply  of  fruits  and  vegetables;  and  the  display  exhibited  at 
the  Horticultural  Exhibition  was  highly  creditable,  not  only  for  the 
perfection  to  which  the  productions  had  been  brought,  but  for  their 
great  variety.  The  exhibition  was  held  in  the  large  market-house  in 
George  Street,  which  was  tastefully  decorated  for  the  occasion  with 
branches  and  festoons  of  flowers.  In  front  of  the  door  was  an  arch 
formed  of  beautiful  flowers,  with  the  motto  "  Advance,  Australia !" 
surmounted  by  a  crown,  and  the  letters  V.  R.  in  yellow  flowers. 
Behind  this  the  band  was  stationed,  which,  on  our  entrance,  struck  up 
Yankee  Doodle.  Tickets  were  sent  to  the  consul  for  those  belonging 
to  the  squadron.  There  were  a  great  many  South  American  plants  in 
pots.  A  premium  was  received  for  Tropxolum  pentaphyllum,  Mau- 
randya  Barclayana,  and  for  two  species  of  Calceolaria.  There  were 
likewise  Amaryllis  belladonna  and  umbellata,  Bouvardia  triphylla, 
Cobrca  scandcns,  and  several  Passifloras,  and  a  variety  of  hyacinths, 
dahlias,  tuberoses,  &c.,  all  fine. 

The  grapes  exhibited  were  beautiful,  and  some  of  them  in  very 
large  clusters.  Nectarines,  peaches,  apples,  pears,  small  oranges, 
shaddocks,  pine-apples,  chestnuts,  and  walnuts,  were  also  in  abun- 
dance. 

After  viewing  the  fruit  we  examined  the  vegetables,  which  consisted 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  183 

of  potatoes,  carrots,  turnips,  very  large  pumpkins,  cucumbers,  cabbages 
of  different  kinds  and  very  fine,  particularly  the  curled  Savoy  and  early 
York,  tomatoes,  celery,  squashes,  vegetable  marrow,  beets,  capsicums, 
and  beans. 

After  the  vegetables  came  specimens  of  native  wines,  and  a  silver 
cup  was  given  as  a  premium  for  the  best.  The  white  wine  resembled 
hock  in  taste ;  the  red,  claret.  The  climate  is  thought  to  be  favourable 
to  the  production  of  the  grape.  The  first  wine  made  in  the  colony 
was  by  Mr.  Blaxland,  on  his  estate  at  Newington. 

The  premiums  were  silver  medals.  A  very  handsome  gold  one  was 
exhibited,  which  was  to  be  given  the  next  year  for  the  best  crop  of 
wheat. 

There  was  a  large  concourse  of  visiters,  all  seemingly  much  inte- 
rested in  the  exhibition,  which  was  open  from  one  o'clock  until  six. 
The  proceeds  of  the  exhibition  of  the  following  day  were  for  the  benefit 
of  the  poor. 

There  are  a  variety  of  other  fruits  and  vegetables  grown  near 
Sydney,  which,  being  out  of  season,  were  not  exhibited  ;  but  to  show 
the  great  variety  this  climate  produces  it  is  as  well  to  mention  them, 
viz. :  English  cherries,  plums,  raspberries,  figs,  water  and  musk-melons, 
filberts,  citrons,  lemons,  strawberries,  granadillas,  olives,  and  a  species 
of  cherimoyer;  and  for  vegetables,  asparagus,  cauliflower,  lettuce, 
radishes,  spinach,  broccoli,  artichokes,  egg-plant,  mustard,  and  capers. 

They  have  many  imported  varieties  of  grapes.  Sir  John  Jamison 
is  now  making  experiments  on  his  estate  to  effect  their  successful 
growth,  and  manufacture  wine.  He  has  obtained  cullivators  both  from 
Madeira  and  the  Rhine,  to  superintend  his  vineyard  and  vintage. 
The  reports  made  yearly  to  the  Agricultural  Society,  hold  out  well- 
founded  hopes  of  success. 

Several  good  nurseries  of  fruit  trees  exist  in  the  vicinity  of  Para- 
matta, and  the  Botanical  Garden  at  Sydney  also  furnishes  trees  to  the 
cultivators. 

The  grains  grown  in  the  colony  are,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  Indian  corn, 
and  oats.  The  wheat  yields  from  six  to  twenty-five  bushels  to  the 
acre,  and  some  low  ground  as  high  as  thirty-five  bushels.  Its  weight 
per  bushel  is  sixty-two  pounds.  The  crops  of  this  grain  are  subject  to 
great  fluctuations,  and  the  most  promising  appearance  may  in  a  single 
day  be  entirely  destroyed. 

Tobacco  has  been  cultivated,  and  it  is  thought  will  succeed  ;  but 
the  frequent  frosts  render  it  a  very  uncertain  crop. 

Cotton  has  been  attempted,  but  with  little  success.  The  value  of 
pasturage,  and  its  profitable  yield  in  sheep-walks,  will  long  be  a  bar  to 


184  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

the  extensive  cultivation  of  any  plants  that  require  much  labour  in 
their  production.  Our  horticulturist  remarks,  that  cherries  do  not 
succeed  well,  being  a  flee  ted  by  the  dry  cutting  winds  which  occur  in 
the  blossoming  season. 

The  orange,  citron,  and  lemon  trees  present  a  scraggy  and  yellow 
appearance,  and  produce  small  and  insipid  fruit,  in  comparison  with 
that  of  the  tropics.  Peaches  thrive,  and  grow  in  large  quantities,  and 
of  high  flavour.  Every  farmer  has  his  peach  orchard ;  and  the  fruit 
is  so  plenty  that  they  fatten  their  pigs  on  them. 

The  natives  of  Australia  are  fast  disappearing.  The  entire  aborigi- 
nal population  has  been  estimated  as  high  as  two  hundred  thousand ; 
this  estimate  is  founded  on  the  supposition  that  the  unexplored  re- 
gions of  the  country  do  not  difler  materially  from  that  part  of  it 
which  is  known,  which  cannot  well  be  the  case.  Other  estimates,  and 
probably  much  nearer  the  truth,  are  given  at  from  sixty  to  seventy-five 
thousand. 

The  ravages  of  intoxication  and  disease,  combined  with  their  occa- 
sional warfare,  will  readily  account  for  the  rapid  disappearance  of  the 
native  population ;  and  but  a  few  more  years  will  suffice  for  the  now 
scanty  population  to  become  extinct.  In  1835,  the  Surveyor-General, 
Mitchell,  estimated  that  in  about  one-seventh  of  the  whole  colony, 
which  he  had  examined,  the  natives  did  not  exceed  six  thousand  in 
number;  they  are  in  many  parts  most  wretched-looking  beings,  and 
incorrigible  beggars  :  the  moment  they  see  a  stranger,  he  is  fairly 
tormented  to  give  something ;  a  shilling  or  a  sixpence  contents  many, 
and  when  laid  out  for  rum,  or  bread,  is  shared  by  all  present. 

The  introduction  of  European  arts  has  caused  but  little  improve- 
ment, while  the  vices  which  accompany  them  have  been  the  bane  of 
the  native  population,  which  has  thus  acquired  a  fondness  for  ardent 
spirits  and  tobacco.  The  natives  usually  lead  a  wandering,  vagabond 
life,  hanging  about  the  houses  of  the  settlers  where  they  are  well 
treated,  and  doing  little  jobs  for  a  slight  recompense  in  the  above 
articles.  Their  habitations  are  mere  temporary  shelters,  formed  of 
boughs  and  bark  piled  up  against  the  stump  of  a  fallen  tree,  rather  to 
shield  them  from  the  wind  than  for  a  regular  habitation ;  the  reason 
for  this  may  be,  that  owing  to  superstitious  scruples  they  never  encamp 
in  one  spot  three  nights  in  succession.  At  Illa\varra,  their  huts  were 
made  by  setting  two  forked  sticks  upright,  on  which  another  was  laid 
horizontally ;  on  the  latter,  one  end  of  pieces  of  bark,  taken  from  the 
nearest  gum  tree,  is  laid,  while  the  other  end  rests  upon  the  ground. 
A  fire  is  built  on  the  open  side,  which  not  only  warms  them,  but 
keeps  oft'  the  myriads  of  musquitoes  and  other  insects.  As  many  as 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  185 

can  enter  such  a  hut,  take  shelter  in  it,  lying  upon  the  soft  bark  of  the 
ti  tree. 

f 


<jp* 

NATIVE  HUT,  NEW  SOUTH  WALES. 


The  natives  of  Australia  differ  from  any  other  race  of  men,  in 
features,  complexion,  habits,  and  language.  Their  colour  and  features 
assimilate  them  to  the  African  type ;  their  long,  black,  silky  hair  has 
a  resemblance  to  the  Malays;  in  their  language  they  approximate 
more  nearly  to  our  American  Indians ;  while  there  is  much  in  their 
physical  traits,  manners,  and  customs,  to  which  no  analogy  can  be 
traced  in  any  other  people. 

The  natives  are  of  middle  height,  perhaps  a  little  above  it ;  they  are 
slender  in  make,  with  long  arms  and  legs.  From  their  wandering 
life,  irregular  habits,  and  bad  food,  they  are  extremely  meager;  and 
as  their  thinness  is  accompanied  by  considerable  protuberance  of  the 
abdomen,  it  gives  to  their  figure  a  distorted  and  singular  appearance. 
The  cast  of  the  face  is  between  the  African  and  Malay ;  the  forehead 
usually  narrow  and  high;  the  eyes  small,  black,  and  deep-set;  the 
nose  much  depressed  at  the  upper  part  between  the  eyes,  and  widened 
at  the  base,  which  is  done  in  infancy  by  the  mother,  the  natural  shape 
being  of  an  aquiline  form ;  the  cheek-bones  are  high,  the  mouth  large, 
and  furnished  with  strong,  well-set  teeth ;  the  chin  frequently  retreats ; 
the  neck  is  thin  and  short.  Their  colour  usually  approaches  chocolate, 
a  deep  umber,  or  reddish  black,  varying  much  in  shade;  and  indi- 
viduals of  pure  blood  are  sometimes  as  light-coloured  as  mulattoes. 
Their  most  striking  distinction  is  their  hair,  which  is  like  that  of  dark- 
haired  Europeans,  although  more  silky.  It  is  fine,  disposed  to  curl, 
and  gives  them  a  totally  different  appearance  from  the  African,  and 
also  from  the  Malay,  and  American  Indian.  Most  of  them  have  thick 
beards  and  whiskers,  and  they  are  more  hairy  than  the  whites.  The 
proportions  of  two  of  them  will  be  found  in  the  table  of  comparative 
proportions  at  the  end  of  the  fifth  volume. 

They  are  difficult  to  manage,  taking  offence  easily  when  they  are 
ill  treated ;  and  if  any  one  attempts  to  control,  thwart,  or  restrain  their 

VOL.  ii.  24 


186 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 


wandering  habits,  they  at  once  resort  to  the  woods,  and  resume  their 
primitive  mode  of  life,  subsisting  upon  fish,  grubs,  berries,  and  occa- 
sionally enjoying  a  feast  of  kangaroo  or  opossum-flesh.  They  eat 
the  larvas  of  all  kinds  of  insects  with  great  gusto.  Those  who  reside 
upon  the  coast,  fish  with  gigs  or  spears,  which  are  usually  three- 
pronged  ;  they  have  no  fish-hooks  of  their  own  manufacture. 


NATIVE  OF  AUSTRALIA. 


When  they  feel  that  they  have  been  injured  by  a  white  settler,  they 
gratify  their  revenge  by  spearing  his  cattle;  and  it  is  said  upon  good 
authority,  that  not  a  few  of  the  whites,  even  of  the  better  class,  will, 
when  they  can  do  so  with  impunity,  retaliate  in  the  blood  of  these 
wretched  natives;  and  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  they  are  not  very 
scrupulous  in  distinguishing  the  guilty  from  the  innocent. 

The  natives  of  New  South  Wales  are  a  proud,  high-tempered  race: 
each  man  is  independent  of  his  neighbour,  owning  no  superior,  and 
exacting  no  deference;  they  have  not  in  their  language  any  word 
signifying  a  chief  or  superior,  nor  to  command  or  serve.  Each  indi- 
vidual is  the  source  of  his  own  comforts,  and  the  artificer  of  his  own 
household  implements  and  weapons;  and  but  for  the  love  of  com- 
panionship, he  might  live  with  his  family  apart  and  isolated  from  the 
rest,  without  sacrificing  any  advantages  whatever.  They  have  an  air 
of  haughtiness  and  insolence  arising  from  this  independence,  and 
nothing  will  induce  them  to  acknowledge  any  human  being  as  their 
superior,  or  to  show  any  marks  of  respect.  In  illustration  of  this, 
Mr.  Watson  the  missionary  is  the  only  white  man  to  whose  name  they 


NEW    SOUTH    W  A  L  ES.  187 

prefix  "  Mr.,"  and  this  he  thinks  is  chiefly  owing  to  the  habit  acquired 
when  children  under  his  authority.  All  others,  of  whatever  rank,  they 
address  by  their  Christian  or  surname.  This  does  not  proceed  from 
ignorance  on  their  part,  as  they  are  known  to  understand  the  distinc- 
tions of  rank  among  the  whites,  and  are  continually  witnessing  the 
subservience  and  respect  exacted  among  them.  They  appear  to  have 
a  consciousness  of  independence,  which  causes  them,  on  all  occasions, 
to  treat  even  the  highest  with  equality.  On  being  asked  to  work,  they 
usually  reply,  "  White  fellow  work,  not  black  fellow ;"  and  on  entering 
a  room,  they  never  remain  standing,  but  immediately  seat  themselves. 

They  are  not  great  talkers,  but  are  usually  silent  and  reserved. 
They  are  generally  well-disposed,  but  dislike  to  be  much  spoken  to, 
particularly  in  a  tone  of  raillery.  An  anecdote  was  mentioned  of  a 
gentleman  amusing  himself  with  a  native,  by  teasing  him,  in  perfect 
good-humour,  when  the  man  suddenly  seized  a  billet  of  wood,  threw 
it  at  him,  and  then  in  a  great  rage  rushed  for  his  spear.  It  was  with 
great  difficulty  that  he  could  be  pacified,  and  made  to  know  that  no 
insult  was  intended ;  he  then  begged  that  they  would  not  talk  to  him 
in  that  manner,  as  he  might  become  wild  and  ungovernable.  They 
look  upon  the  whites  with  a  mixture  of  distrust  and  contempt,  and  to 
govern  them  by  threats  and  violence  is  found  impossible.  They  are 
susceptible  of  being  led  by  kind  treatment,  but  on  an  injury  or  insult 
they  immediately  take  to  the  bush,  and  resume  their  wandering  habits. 
They  do  not  carry  on  any  systematic  attacks,  and  their  fears  of  the 
whites  are  so  great,  that  large  companies  of  them  have  been  dispersed 
by  small  exploring  parties  and  a  few  resolute  stockmen. 

Though  they  are  constantly  wandering  about,  yet  they  usually  con- 
fine themselves  to  a  radius  of  fifty  or  sixty  miles  from  the  place  they 
consider  their  residence.  If  they  venture  beyond  this,  which  they 
sometimes  do  with  a  party  of  whites,  they  always  betray  the  greatest 
fear  of  falling  in  with  some  Myall  or  stranger  blacks,  who  they  say 
would  put  them  to  death  immediately. 

Their  great  timidity  has  caused  a  false  estimate  to  be  put  upon  their 
character,  by  ascribing  to  it  great  ferocity ;  and,  as  an  instance  of  it, 
it  is  mentioned,  that  if  a  party  of  natives  be  suddenly  approached  in 
the  interior,  who  are  unacquainted  with  white  men,  and  taken  by  sur- 
prise, supposing  that  they  are  surrounded  and  doomed  to  death,  they 
make  the  most  furious  onset,  and  sell  their  lives  as  dearly  as  possible : 
this  arises  from  the  panic  with  which  they  are  seized,  depriving  them 
temporarily  of  reason. 

They  have  not,  properly  speaking,  any  distribution  into  tribes.  In 
their  conflicts,  those  speaking  the  same  language,  and  who  have 
fought  side  by  side,  are  frequently  drawn  up  in  battle-array  against 


188  NEW    SOUTH     WALES. 

each  other,  and  a  short  time  after  may  be  again  seen  acting  together. 
Their  conflicts,  for  they  do  not  deserve  the  name  of  wars,  are  con- 
ducted after  the  following  manner.  The  quarrel  or  misunderstanding 
generally  arises  from  some  trivial  affair;  when  the  aggrieved  party 
assembles  his  neighbours  to  consult  them  relative  to  the  course  to  be 
pursued.  The  general  opinion  having  been  declared,  a  messenger  is 
sent  to  announce  their  intention  to  commence  hostilities  to  the  oppo- 
site party,  and  to  fix  a  day  for  the  combat.  The  latter  immediately 
assemble  their  friends,  and  make  preparations  for  the  approaching 
contest.  The  two  parties  on  the  day  assigned  meet,  accompanied 
by  the  women  and  children.  The  first  onset  is  made  by  the  oldest 
women  (hags  they  might  be  termed)  vituperating  the  opposite  side. 
Then  a  warrior  advances,  and  several  throws  of  spears  take  place. 
These  are  parried  with  much  dexterity,  for  all  the  natives  possess 
great  art  and  skill  in  avoiding  missiles  with  their  shields.  This  ex- 
change of  missiles  continues  for  some  time,  and  not  unfrequently  ends 
without  any  fatal  result.  When  one  of  either  party  is  killed,  a  separa- 
tion takes  place,  succeeded  by  another  course  of  recrimination,  after 
which  explanations  are  made,  the  affair  terminates,  and  hostility  is  at 
an  end ;  the  two  parties  meet  amicably,  bury  the  dead,  and  join  in  the 
corrobory  dance. 

These  dances  are  not  only  the  usual  close  of  their  combats,  but  are 
frequent  in  time  of  peace.  They  appear  almost  necessary  to  stir  up 
their  blood;  and  under  the  excitement  they  produce,  the  whole  nature 
of  the  people  seems  to  be  changed.  To  a  spectator,  the  effect  of  one 
of  these  exhibitions  almost  equals  that  of  a  tragic  melodrame. 

A  suitable  place  for  the  performance  is  selected  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  their  huts.  Here  a  fire  is  built  by  the  women  and  boys, 
while  such  of  the  men  as  are  to  take  a  share  in  the  exhibition,  usually 
about  twenty  in  number,  disappear  to  arrange  their  persons.  When 
these  preparations  are  completed,  and  the  fire  burns  brightly,  the  per- 
formers are  seen  advancing  in  the  guise  of  as  many  skeletons.  This 
effect  is  produced  by  means  of  pipe-clay,  with  which  they  paint  broad 
white  lines  on  their  arms  and  legs,  and  on  the  head,  while  others  of 
less  breadth  are  drawn  across  the  body,  to  correspond  to  the  ribs. 
The  music  consists  in  beating  time  on  their  shields,  and  singing,  and 
to  it  the  movements  of  the  dancers  conform.  It  must  not  be  supposed 
that  this  exhibition  is  a  dance  in  our  sense  of  the  word,  nor  is  it  like 
any  thing  that  we  saw  in  the  South  Sea  islands.  It  consists  of  violent 
and  odd  movements  of  the  arms,  legs,  and  body,  contortions  and  vio- 
lent muscular  actions,  amounting  almost  to  frenzy.  The  performers 
appear  more  like  a  child's  pasteboard  supple-Jack  than  any  thing 
human  in  their  movements. 


exhibition,  Ut 


N  E  W    S  O  U  T  H    W  A  L  E  S.  191 

Some  of  their  personal  or  private  quarrels  are  settled  by  a  sort  of 
duel,  or  rather  a  trial  of  whose  head  is  hardest.  The  accused  or 
challenged  party  extends  his  head,  with  the  crown  uppermost,  towards 
his  adversary,  who  strikes  a  blow  with  his  utmost  force  with  a  waddy, 
which  is  the  weapon  they  usually  carry  about  them,  and  with  which 
they  punish  their  wives,  who  exhibit  generally  many  marks  from  the 
use  of  it.  The  challenger  then  presents  his  head  in  return,  and  blows 
are  thus  continued  alternately,  until  one  or  the  other  is  disabled,  or 
both  declare  themselves  satisfied.  Those  who  have  witnessed  these 
encounters  are  quite  astonished  that  every  blow  does  not  stun  or  kill, 
for  each  of  them  would  be  fatal  to  a  white  man;  but  the  great  thickness 
of  their  skulls  enables  them  to  sustain  this  violence  with  but  little 
injury. 

Their  weapons  are  the  spear,  club,  or  nulla-nulla,  boomereng, 
dundumel,  and  the  bundi,  of  which  drawings  are  given  in  the  tail- 
piece at  the  end  of  the  last  chapter.  Their  spears  are  about  ten  feet 
long,  and  very  slender,  made  of  cane  or  wood  tapering  to  a  point, 
which  is  barbed.  They  are  light,  and  one  would  scarcely  be  inclined 
to  believe  that  they  could  be  darted  with  any  force ;  nor  could  they 
without  the  aid  of  the  warnmera,  a  straight  flat  stick,  three  feet  in 
length,  terminating  in  a  socket  of  bone  or  hide,  into  which  the  end  of 
the  spear  is  fixed.  The  wammera  is  grasped  in  the  right  hand  by 
three  fingers,  the  spear  lying  between  the  fore-finger  and  thumb. 
Previous  to  throwing  it,  a  tremulous  or  vibratory  motion  is  given  to  it, 
which  is  supposed  to  add  to  the  accuracy  of  the  aim ;  in  projecting  the 
spear,  the  wammera  is  retained  in  the  hand,  and  the  use  of  this  simple 
contrivance  adds  greatly  to  the  projectile  force  given  to  the  spear. 
They  are  well  practised  in  the  use  of  these  weapons. 

The  nulla-nulla,  or  uta,  is  from  thirty  to  thirty-six  inches  in  length, 
the  handle  being  of  a  size  to  be  conveniently  grasped. 

The  dundumel  is  a  weapon  used  by  the  natives  of  the  interior;  it 
has  a  curved  flat  handle  thirty  inches  in  length,  and  terminates  in  a 
projection  not  unlike  a  hatchet;  it  is  thrown  from  the  hand  before 
coming  to  close  quarters,  and  usually  at  a  very  short  distance. 

But  the  most  extraordinary  weapon  is  the  boomereng.  This  is  a 
flat  stick,  three  feet  long  and  two  inches  wide  by  three  quarters  of  an 
inch  thick,  curved  or  crooked  in  the  centre,  forming  an  obtuse  angle. 
At  first  sight  one  would  conclude  it  was  a  wooden  sword,  very  rudely 
and  clumsily  made;  indeed  one  of  the  early  navigators  took  it  for  such. 
It  is  an  implement  used  both  for  war  and  in  the  chase.  In  the  hands 
of  a  native  it  is  a  missile  efficient  for  both,  and  is  made  to  describe 
some  most  extraordinary  curves  and  movements. 


192 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 


NATIVE  THROWING  THE  BOOMERENG. 


It  is  grasped  at  one  end  in  the  right  hand,  and  is  thrown  sickle-wise, 
either  upwards  into  the  air,  or  downwards  so  as  to  strike  the  ground  at 
some  distance  from  the  thrower.  In  the  first  case  it  flies  with  a  rotary 
motion,  as  its  shape  would  indicate;  after  ascending  to  a  great  height  in 
the  air,  it  suddenly  returns  in  an  elliptical  orbit  to  a  spot  near  its  start- 
ing-point. The  natives  in  its  use  are  enabled  to  strike  objects  which  lie 
behind  others  with  great  precision,  and  to  reach  those  near  as  if  by  a 
back-stroke,  by  throwing  it  at  a  particular  angle.  The  diagram  at  the 
end  of  the  chapter,  exhibits  the  curves  at  the  angles  of  22°,  45°,  and  65°, 
respectively,  which  I  have  obtained  in  making  experiments  with  it. 
Some  facts  which  were  spoken  of  in  its  use,  are  remarkable.  On  throw- 
ing it  downwards  on  the  ground,  it  rebounds  in  a  straight  line,  pursuing 
a  ricochet  motion  until  it  strikes  the  object  at  which  it  is  thrown.  Birds 
and  small  animals  are  killed  with  it,  and  it  is  also  used  in  killing  ducks. 
The  most  singular  curve  described  by  it,  is  when  thrown  into  the  air, 
above  the  angle  of  45°  ;  its  flight  is  always  then  backwards,  and  the 
native  who  throws  it  stands  with  his  back,  instead  of  his  face,  to  the 
object  he  is  desirous  of  hitting.  The  diagram  also  exhibits  its  fall  in 
case  it  loses  its  rotary  motion.  It  is  a  favourite  weapon  with  the 
natives,  and  is  frequently  seen  ingeniously  carved. 

As  a  .defence,  they  use  a  shield  made  of  the  thick  bark  of  the  gum 
tree  ;  this  they  call  hiclernara.  It  is  peculiar  in  shape,  and  on  the 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  193 

coast  is  three  feet  long  by  six  or  eight  inches  wide,  with  a  handle  in 
the  centre;  it  is  made  rounding.  Those  in  the  interior  are  only  a 
three-cornered  piece  of  wood,  with  a  hole  on  each  side,  through  which 
the  hand  is  thrust.  The  size  of  the  latter  is  smaller,  being  only  two 
feet  long  and  three  or  four  inches  broad.  It  would  seem  almost  im- 
possible that  so  small  a  shield  should  be  sufficient  to  guard  the  body  of 
a  man ;  and  nothing  but  their  quickness  of  eye  and  hand  could  make 
it  of  any  value  as  a  protection  against  the  spear  or  club. 

The  mode  in  which  the  natives  climb  trees  was  considered  ex- 
traordinary by  those  who  witnessed  it,  although  they  had  been 
accustomed  to  the  feats  of  the  Polynesians  in  the  ascent  of  the  cocoa 
nut  trees.  The  Australians  mount  a  tree  four  or  five  feet  in  diameter, 
both  with  rapidity  and  safety.  As  they  climb  they  cut  notches  above 
them,  with  a  stone  or  metal  hatchet,  large  enough  to  admit  two  of 
their  toes,  which  are  inserted  in  them,  and  support  their  weight  until 
other  holes  are  cut. 

The  natives  who  reside  upon  the  coast  use  canoes  which  are  con- 
structed as  follows. 

A  gum  tree  that  has  a  thick  and  tough  bark  is  selected ;  this  is 
girdled,  and  the  bark  slit  so  that  by  care  a  piece  of  it  may  be  stripped 
from  the  tree  large  enough  to  make  the  canoe,  which  is  usually  about 
fourteen  feet  long  and  seven  wide.  This  piece  of  bark  is  charred  on 
the  inside,  after  which  it  is  folded  in  each  end,  so  as  to  bring  the  edges 
of  the  two  halves  of  the  entire  circuit  of  the  bark  together ;  in  this 
position  these  edges  are  fastened  by  cords  and  wooden  rivets.  The 
simple  canoe  is  now  complete,  is  usually  about  three  feet  wide  in  the 
middle,  and  will  convey  half  a  dozen  persons. 

They  use  paddles  of  different  sizes,  say  from  two  to  five  feet  in 
length.  In  using  the  shorter  kind,  a  paddle  is  held  in  each  hand. 

A  fire  is  commonly  carried  upon  a  layer  of  gravel  in  the  middle  of 
the  boat :  a  custom  which  appears  to  arise  either  from  a  natural  or 
superstitious  reluctance  to  be  without  a  fire  at  any  time.  In  this 
custom,  as  will  be  recollected,  they  resemble  the  Fuegians,  who,  how- 
ever, far  excel  them  in  the  art  of  constructing  canoes. 

The  social  system  and  intercourse  of  the  Australians  is  regulated 
by  custom  alone.  As  no  system  of  government  exists,  or  any  acknow- 
ledgment of  power  to  enact  laws,  they  are  solely  guided  by  old  usage, 
and  can  give  no  account  whatever  of  its  origin.  The  universal  repro- 
bation of  their  associates,  which  follows  a  breach  of  ancient  customs, 
has  a  strong  tendency  to  preserve  a  strict  observance  of  them.  Many 
of  these  customs  struck  us  as  remarkable ;  those  that  have  not  been 

VOL.  ii.  25 


194  M  E  W    S  O  U  T  H    W  A  L  E  S. 

actually  seen  by  the  officers  of  the  Expedition,  have  been  described  by 
persons  entitled  to  the  fullest  credit. 

The  custom  (to  use  the  language  of  the  settlers)  "  of  making 
young  men,"  is  singular.  The  object  of  the  institution  seems  to  be  to 
imprint  forcibly  upon  the  youth  the  rules  and  observances  by  which 
his  after  life  is  to  be  governed ;  and  so  strikingly  are  they  adapted  to 
insure  good  conduct,  that  it  can  hardly  be  believed  that  they  could 
have  originated  among  savages,  such  as  the  natives  of  Australia 
now  are. 

When  the  boys  reach  the  age  of  fourteen,  or  that  of  puberty,  the 
elders  of  the  tribe  prepare  to  initiate  them  into  the  privileges  of 
manhood.  A  night  or  two  previous,  a  dismal  cry  is  heard  in  the 
woods,  which  the  boys  are  told  is  the  Bulu  calling  for  them.  There- 
upon all  the  men  of  the  tribe  set  off  for  some  secluded  spot,  previously 
fixed  upon,  taking  with  them  the  boys  or  youths  to  be  initiated.  No 
white  man  is  allowed  to  be  present,  and  the  precise  nature  of  the 
ceremony  is  therefore  unknown ;  but  it  is  certain  that  the  ceremonies 
arc  designed  to  try  their  courage,  fortitude,  and  the  expertness  of  the 
boys  in  reference  to  their  future  employments  in  the  chase  and  in  war. 
There  is  probably  some  difference  in  these  ceremonies  among  the 
different  tribes.  The  Wellington  station,  or  those  of  the  interior,  for 
instance,  never  knock  out  a  front  tooth,  which  is  always  done  on  the 
coast. 

From  the  time  the  youths  are  initiated,  they  are  required  to  yield 
implicit  obedience  to  their  elders.  This  is  the  only  control  that  seems 
to  prevail,  and  is  very  requisite  to  preserve  order  and  harmony  in  their 
social  intercourse,  as  well  as  to  supply  the  place  of  distinctions  of  rank 
among  them. 

The  youths  are  likewise  restricted  to  articles  of  diet,  not  being 
allowed  to  eat  eggs,  fish,  or  any  of  the  finer  kinds  of  opossum  or 
kangaroo.  Their  fare  is  consequently  of  a  very  poor  description,  but 
as  they  grow  older  these  restrictions  are  removed,  although  at  what 
age  we  have  not  learnt ;  but  after  having  passed  the  middle  age,  they 
are  entirely  at  liberty  to  partake  of  all.  The  purpose  of  this  is  thought 
to  be  not  only  to  accustom  them  to  a  simple  and  hardy  way  of  living, 
but  also  that  they  should  provide  for  the  aged,  and  not  be  allowed  to 
appropriate  all  to  themselves.  Selfishness  is  therefore  no  part  of  their 
character,  and  all  observers  are  struck  with  their  custom  of  dividing 
any  thing  they  may  receive  among  each  other,  a  disinterestedness  that 
is  seldom  seen  among  civilized  nations. 

To  protect  the  morals  of  the  youths,  they  are  forbidden  from  the  time 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  195 

of  their  initiation  until  their  marriage  to  speak  to  or  even  to  approach 
a  female.  They  must  encamp  at  a  distance  from  them,  and  if,  per- 
chance, one  is  seen  in  the  pathway,  they  are  obliged  to  make  a  detour 
in  order  to  avoid  her.  Mr.  Watson  stated  he  had  been  often  put  to 
great  inconvenience  in  travelling  through  the  woods  with  a  young 
native  for  his  guide,  as  he  could  never  be  induced  to  approach  an 
encampment  where  there  were  any  women. 

The  ceremony  of  marriage  is  peculiar.  In  most  cases  the  parties 
are  betrothed  at  an  early  age,  and  as  soon  as  they  arrive  at  the  proper 
age,  the  young  man  claims  his  gin  or  wife. 

The  women  are  considered  as  an  article  of  property,  and  are  sold 
or  given  away  by  the  parents  or  relatives  without  the  least  regard  to 
their  own  wishes.  As  far  as  our  observation  went,  the  women  appear 
to  take  little  care  of  their  children.  Polygamy  exists,  and  they  will 
frequently  give  one  of  their  wives  to  a  friend  who  may  be  in  want  of 
one ;  but  notwithstanding  this  laxity  they  are  extremely  jealous,  and 
are  very  prompt  to  resent  any  freedom  taken  with  their  wives.  Their 
quarrels  for  the  most  part  are  occasioned  by  the  fair  sex,  and  being  the 
cause,  they  usually  are  the  greatest  sufferers ;  for  the  waddy  is  applied 
to  their  heads  in  a  most  unmerciful  style,  and  few  old  women  are  to 
be  seen  who  do  not  bear  unquestionable  marks  of  the  hard  usage  they 
have  received.  The  husband  who  suspects  another  of  seducing  his 
wife,  either  kills  one  or  both.  The  affair  is  taken  up  by  the  tribe,  if 
the  party  belongs  to  another,  who  inflict  punishment  on  him  in  the 
following  manner. 

The  guilty  party  is  furnished  with  a  shield,  and  made  to  stand  at  a 
suitable  distance,  and  the  whole  tribe  cast  -their  spears  at  him ;  his 
expertness  and  activity  often  enable  him  to  escape  any  serious  injury, 
but  instances  do  occur  in  which  the  party  is  killed.  Such  punishments 
are  inflicted  with  great  formality,  upon  an  appointed  day,  and  the 
whole  tribe  assemble  to  witness  it.  The  person  most  injured  has  the 
first  throw,  and  it  depends  upon  the  feelings  of  the  tribe  respecting  the 
offence  committed,  whether  they  endeavour  to  do  injury  to  the  culprit 
or  not;  and  thus  it  maybe  supposed  that  there  is  some  judgment 
evinced  in  this  mode  of  punishment. 

The  following  account  of  the  burial  of  their  dead,  was  received  from 
the  missionary  who  was  an  eye-witness  to  it.  He  was  called  out  one 
evening  to  see  a  native,  who  they  said  was  dying.  On  repairing  to 
the  camp,  he  was  too  late,  for  the  man  was  already  dead,  and  not- 
withstanding the  short  space  of  time  that  had  elapsed,  the  corpse  was 
already  wrapped  up  for  burial.  The  legs  had  been  bent  at  the  knees 
and  hips,  and  tied  to  the  body,  and  the  head  bent  downwards  towards 


196  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

the  legs.  In  this  position  the  corpse  was  enveloped  in  a  blanket,  and 
bound  round  with  many  ligatures,  so  as  to  form  a  shapeless  lump. 
There  were  about  fifty  natives  present,  seated  within  a  small  space  in 
front.  The  women  were  raising  dismal  lamentations  and  cutting 
themselves  with  sharp  sticks ;  while  the  men  were  engaged  in  an 
earnest  consultation  as  to  the  place  which  should  be  fixed  upon  for  the 
burial.  At  length  it  was  determined  to  be  on  the  banks  of  the  Mac- 
quarie,  at  no  great  distance  from  the  mission  station.  On  the  following 
day  the  missionary  proceeded  to  the  place,  and  found  that  the  natives 
had  already  cleared  the  grass  from  a  space  about  twenty  feet  in 
diameter;  in  the  centre  of  this  the  grave  was  marked  out,  of  an  oval 
shape,  six  feet  long  by  three  feet  wide.  After  digging  to  the  depth  of 
about  a  foot,  they  left  a  ledge  all  around  the  grave  of  a  few  inches  in 
width:  the  excavation,  thus  diminished  in  size,  was  continued  to  the  depth 
of  five  feet,  the  sides  not  being  exactly  perpendicular,  but  sloping  slightly 
inwards.  At  the  bottom  of  the  grave  was  laid  a  bed  of  leaves,  covered 
with  an  opossum-skin  cloak,  and  having  a  stuffed  bag  of  kangaroo-skin 
for  a  pillow  ;  on  this  couch  the  body  was  laid,  and  the  implements  of 
hunting  and  war  which  the  deceased  had  used  during  his  lifetime  were 
laid  beside  him.  Leaves  and  branches  of  bushes  were  strewed  over 
him,  until  the  grave  was  filled  up  to  the  ledge  or  shelf  above  mentioned. 
Across  the  grave  were  laid  strong  stakes,  with  the  ends  resting  on  this 
shelf,  and  on  these  a  layer  of  stones,  which  filled  the  hole  to  the  level 
of  the  soil.  The  excavated  earth  was  then  put  over  the  whole,  forming 
a  conical  heap  eight  or  nine  feet  high.  The  trees  on  each  side  were 
marked  with  irregular  incisions,  but  whether  intended  as  symbols,  or 
merely  to  identify  the  place  of  sepulture,  was  not  understood.  All  the 
time  this  was  going  on,  fires  were  kept  burning  around  the  place,  to 
drive  away  evil  spirits,  and  the  women  and  children  uttered  loud 
lamentations,  inflicting  at  the  same  time  wounds  upon  themselves. 
When  the  grave  was  completed,  all  the  women  and  children  were 
ordered  away,  and  the  missionary,  perceiving  that  it  was  expected 
that  he  would  do  the  same,  retired  also.  His  presumption  was  that 
they  intended  to  give  utterance  to  their  grief,  and  that  they  were 
ashamed  to  do  it  in  his  presence,  or  before  the  women  and  children. 

The  day  after  the  burial  the  natives  visited  every  spot  in  which  they 
recollected  to  have  seen  the  deceased,  and  fumigated  it,  for  the  purpose 
of  driving  away  the  evil  spirits.  They  even  went  into  the  missionaries' 
houses,  greatly  to  the  annoyance  of  the  ladies. 

Their  style  of  mourning  consists  in  bedaubing  themselves  with  pipe- 
clay ;  and  a  more  hideous  object  than  an  old  woman  thus  tricked  out 
can  hardlv  be  conceived.  The  bodv  and  limbs  are  streaked  with  itr 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  197 

and  the  face  completely  covered  as  with  a  mask,  in  which  holes  are 
left  for  the  eyes,  nostrils,  and  mouth.  The  mask  is  gradually  removed, 
until  the  last  that  is  seen  of  it  is  a  small  patch  on  the  top  of  the  head. 

They  have  some  idea  of  a  future  state,  although  some  assert  that  the 
whole  man  dies,  and  that  nothing  is  left  of  him ;  while  others  are  of 
opinion  that  his  spirit  yet  lives,  either  as  a  wandering  ghost  or  in  a 
state  of  metamorphosis,  animating  a  bird  or  other  creature  of  a  lower 
order  than  man. 

Their  opinions  on  religious  subjects  generally  partake  of  the  same 
unsettled  character,  which  makes  it  very  difficult  to  obtain  any  clear 
idea  of  them.  The  great  difficulty  is  the  unwillingness  of  the  natives 
to  talk  upon  the  subject,  either  from  superstition  or  shame ;  and  it  is  the 
opinion  of  the  missionaries  that  no  full  account  of  their  religious  notions 
will  be  obtained,  until  one  of  the  well-informed  adults  is  converted  to 
Christianity,  an  event  which  is  not  soon  to  be  expected.  The  mission- 
aries have  had  little  or  no  success ;  none  of  the  adults  have  hitherto 
shown  any  desire  to  embrace  Christianity ;  and  it  is  remarked,  that 
there  appears  to  be  a  want  of  susceptibility  in  their  character  to 
religious  impressions.  Some  of  their  ceremonies  which  partook  of  that 
character  have  been  discontinued  of  late  years,  and  no  others  have  been 
adopted  in  their  place.  They  have,  however,  some  indistinct  notions 
of  a  Deity.  The  missionaries  at  Wellington  have  heard  from  them  of 
a  being  whom  they  call  Bai-a-mai,  and  whom,  with  his  son  Burambin, 
they  deem  the  creator  of  all  things.  To  this  Bai-a-mai  they  pay  a  kind 
of  annual  worship  by  dancing  and  singing  a  song  in  his  honour.  This 
song,  they  say,  was  brought  from  a  distant  country  by  strangers  who 
went  about  teaching  it.  This  annual  worship  took  place  in  the  month 
of  February,  and  all  who  did  not  join  in  it  were  supposed  to  incur  the 
displeasure  of  the  god. 

Bai-a-mai  was  supposed  to  live  on  an  island  beyond  the  great  sea  of 
the  coast,  and  to  eat  fish,  which,  when  he  required  food,  came  up  at  his 
call  from  the  water.  Burambin,  others  say,  was  brought  into  existence 
by  Bai-a-mai,  when  the  missionaries  first  came  to  Wellington. 

Dararwirgal  is  a  brother  of  Bai-a-mai,  and  lives  in  the  far  west.  To 
him  they  ascribe  the  origin  of  the  small-pox,  which  has  made  such 
ravages  among  them.  They  say  that  he  was  vexed  for  want  of  a 
tomahawk,  and  therefore  sent  that  disease  among  them ;  but  they  now 
suppose  that  he  has  obtained  one,  and  that  the  disease  will  corne  no 
more. 

Balumbals  are  angels,  said  to  be  white,  who  live  on  a  mountain  to 
the  southwest,  at  a  great  distance.  Their  food  is  honey,  and  their 
employment  like  that  of  the  missionaries. 


198 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 


Wandong  is  their  evil  spirit,  whom  they  have  learnt  from  the  whites 
to  call  the  "  Devil."  They  describe  him  as  a  gigantic  black  man, 
always  prowling  about  at  night,  ready  to  seize  and  devour  any  unfor- 
tunate wanderer.  So  great  is  their  horror  of  this  imaginary  being, 
that  they  never  venture  from  their  fires  at  night,  except  under  the 
pressure  of  great  necessity,  when  they  always  carry  a  firebrand  to 
intimidate  the  monster. 


FLIGHT  OF  THE  BOOMEREXG. 


CHAPTEE  VII. 


CONTENTS. 

EXTENT  OF  SEA-COAST  OP  AUSTRALIA-PROGRESS  OF  DISCOVERY— EXTENT  OF  THE 
GOVERNMENT  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES— HISTORY  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES— AUSTRA- 
LIAN LAND  COMPANY— LAND  FUND— POLICY  OF  GOVERNOR  MACQUARIE— CONVICT- 
SHIP  —  VALUE  OF  CONVICT  LABOUR  —  DISPOSITION  OF  CONVICTS  ON  ARRIVAL  — 
ALLOWANCES  TO  CONVICT  SERVANTS— WORKING  OF  THE  ASSIGNMENT  SYSTEM  — 
SEPARATION  OF  FEMALE  CONVICTS  FROM  THEIR  CHILDREN-FACTORY  AT  PARA- 
MATTA—ITS DISCIPLINE  —  CHILDREN  IN  THE  FACTORY  —  IRON  •  GANGS  —  CAPTAIN 
MACONOCHIE'S  SOCIAL  SYSTEM  —  ITS  OPERATION  —  ITS  PARTIAL  ADOPTION  AT 
SYDNEY,  AND  AT  NORFOLK  ISLAND— TWO  DIFFERENT  FORMS  OF  SOCIAL  SYSTEM- 
CONDITION  OF  CONVICTS  AND  SOLDIERS  COMPARED  —  TICKET  -  OF  -  LEA VE  MEN — 
DISTINCTIONS  IN  SOCIETY  — FREE  EMIGRANTS  — LABOURING  CLASS  OF  FREE  EMI- 
GRANTS—CRIMPS—HIGHER CLASS  OF  SOCIETY— GOVERNOR,  HOW  APPOINTED,  AND 
FOR  WHAT  TERM— HIS  POWERS— HIS  SUCCESSOR  IN  CASE  OF  DEATH  OR  ABSENCE- 
LEGISLATIVE  COUNCIL-COLONIAL  RULES  AND  REGULATIONS  —  EXPENDITURE  AND 
MODE  OF  TAXATION— WORKING  OF  THE  LEGISLATIVE  SYSTEM— STATUTE  OF  NEW 
SOUTH  WALES— DESIRE  FOR  A  NEW  CONSTITUTION  — BOUNTY  ON  IMMIGRATION  — 
EMIGRATION— MODE  OF  PROCURING  GRANTS  OF  LAND— STATE  OF  CRIME  IN  NEW 
SOUTH  WALES  — JUDGE  BURTON'S  CHARGE  — HIS  REPORT  ON  THE  JURY  SYSTEM  — 
OPINIONS  OF  OTHER  JUDGES-COURTS  OF  LAW  — EDUCATION  — BISHOPRIC  OF  NEW 
SOUTH  WALES— COLLEGES. 


(199) 


'••'-»„,     r-       o.o'---^;; 

-::3<?v\    /'''" 
"  ^ 


-  Sr.Ja,+  Mm 

J>f  •'/    ^ 

^Bo.anvBav 

b.^K      „      ,      ,       -  4 ^"— 

^ 


'•       I  I  ' 


CHAPTER   VII. 

HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    AND    SOCIAL    STATE 
OP    NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

1839. 

NEW  SOUTH  WALES  is  known  in  the  United  States  almost  by  its 
name  alone. 

It  happened  from  the  circumstances  of  our  visit,  that  we  were 
enabled  to  obtain  much  information  in  relation  to  this  rising  colony. 

Australia,  or  New  Holland,  of  which  New  South  Wales  is  as  yet 
the  most  important  part,  requires  no  description  of  its  dimensions  and 
geographical  position.  It  is  sufficient  to  note  the  fact  that  it  possesses 
a  sea-coast  of  the  vast  extent  of  eight  thousand  miles.  It  was  first 
discovered  by  the  Dutch,  while  engaged  in  exploring  the  coast  of 
New  Guinea,  who  saw  the  portion  of  it  to  the  south  of  Endeavour 
Straits,  and  gave  it  a  name  from  that  of  their  own  country,  in  1606. 
A  few  months  after  this  discovery,  Louis  de  Torres  made  the  north- 
eastern point  of  Australia. 

In  1616,  Theodoric  Hartog  fell  in  with  that  part  of  the  western 
coast  which  lies  within  the  tropic  and  latitude  28°  S.  This  he  called 
Endracht's  Land,  after  the  name  of  his  vessel. 

In  1618,  the  coast  between  latitude  11°  and  15°  S.,  reaching  from 
the  Gulf  of  Carpentaria  to  Cape  Talbot,  was  seen  by  Zeachem. 

In  1628,  De  Witt  and  Carpenter  discovered  that  part  of  the  western 
coast  known  as  De  Witt's  Land,  and  surveyed  the  Gulf  of  Carpentaria. 

In  1667,  Van  Nuyt  sailed  along  the  southern  coast,  from  Cape 
Leeuwin  to  Spencers  Gulf;  and  to  this  part  of  Australia  his  name 
has  of  late  been  restored  upon  the  maps. 

Tasman,  in  1642,  discovered  Van  Diemen's  Land,  which  was  long 
after  considered  to  be  connected  with  the  main  land  of  Australia. 
Finally,  between  1766  and  1770,  after  an  interval  of  a  century,  during 
which  no  researches  had  been  made,  and  some  of  the  discoveries 

VOL.  ii.  26  (201> 


202  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

already  mentioned  had  been  forgotten,  Cook  explored  the  eastern 
coast,  from  Cape  Home  to  Cape  York,  and  called  its  whole  extent 
New  South  Wales. 

Researches  were  again  suspended  until  after  the  establishment  of  the 
convict  colony,  and  in  1798  Flinders  and  Bass  discovered  the  straits 
which  bear  the  name  of  the  latter,  which  separate  Van  Diemen's  from 
the  main  land,  and  sailed  around  that  island.  To  the  country  adjacent 
to  these  straits,  the  name  of  Bass's  Land  was  given;  and  in  1803, 
Grant  explored  the  coast  to  the  west  of  it.  Flinders,  who  was  for 
several  years  engaged  in  making  surveys  on  the  eastern  coast,  also 
connected  the  land  discovered  by  Grant,  with  that  of  Van  Nuyt,  and 
re-examined  the  latter.  It  is  to  Flinders  that  we  owe  our  most  precise 
knowledge  of  the  general  geographical  features  of  the  eastern  and 
southern  coast  of  Australia ;  and  since  the  close  of  his  labours, 
Captain  P.  P.  King,  of  H.  B.  M.  Navy,  has  been  engaged,  and  other 
officers  are  now  assiduously  employed,  in  surveying  the  northern  coast. 
The  interior,  as  has  been  already  stated,  has  been  made  the  subject  of 
numerous  exploring  tours  by  the  surveyors  of  the  colony,  and  other 
persons  employed  by  the  British  government. 

The  territory  included  under  the  name  of  New  South  Wales  is  the 
eastern  portion  of  Australia,  and  extends  from  the  twenty-third  to  the 
thirty-eighth  degree  of  south  latitude.  The  power  of  its  governor, 
however,  extends  further,  and  within  his  jurisdiction  are  included  the 
whole  eastern  coast,  from  Cape  York  to  Wilson's  Promontory,  or 
between  latitude  10°  37'  and  39°  2'  S. ;  with  the  country  inland  as  far 
as  the  meridian  of  129°  E.  Moreton  Bay  on  the  northern,  and  Port 
Philip  on  the  southern  coast,  with  Norfolk  Island,  and  all  others 
between  it  and  the  coast,  are  also  placed  under  his  authority. 

The  epoch  whence  the  history  of  the  colony  dates,  is  the  year  1787, 
when  the  eastern  coast  wras  chosen  by  the  British  government  as  the 
site  of  a  penal  colony.  The  convicts  hold  so  prominent  a  part  in  the 
events  which  have  occurred  since  that  period,  that  their  history  may 
be  almost  considered  as  that  of  New  South  Wales. 

Botany  Bay,  in  consequence  of  extravagant  ideas  formed  of  its 
excellence  as  a  harbour,  and  the  fertility  of  the  country  around  it, 
was  the  portion  chosen  for  the  settlement.  The  first  gang  of  convicts 
sent  out  was  composed  of  six  hundred  male  and  two  hundred  and 
fifty  female  criminals,  who  were  guarded  by  a  body  of  troops  con- 
sisting of  two  hundred  officers  and  soldiers.  About  forty  of  the 
soldiers  were  married,  and  had  their  wives  and  children  with  them. 
The  whole  were  under  the  direction  of  Captain  Philips,  who  held  the 
appointment  of  governor. 


OF   NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  203 

The  expedition,  in  conformity  to  the  instructions,  proceeded  in  the 
first  instance  to  Botany  Bay.  This,  to  their  disappointment,  was 
found  an  unsafe  harbour;  and  the  country  far  from  suitable  for  the 
intended  purpose.  On  exploring  the  coast,  they  unexpectedly  found, 
about  seven  miles  to  the  northward,  a  capacious  and  beautiful  harbour, 
which  Cook  had  reported  as  fit  only  for  boats ;  this,  which  they  called 
Port  Jackson,  proved  to  be  adapted  to  the  intended  purpose,  and  to  it 
they  removed.  The  people  of  the  colony  were  landed  on  the  26th  of 
January,  1788.  The  Governor  delivered  an  address  to  his  settlers  on 
the  7th  of  February,  strongly  recommending  marriage  to  the  con- 
victs ;  and  in  consequence  of  this  admonition,  fourteen  marriages  took 
place  the  succeeding  week. 

In  1790,  one  of  the  severe  droughts  to  which  the  country  is  liable 
occurred,  and  the  colony  was  reduced  to  great  distress  for  provisions. 
All  the  live-stock,  which  had  been  imported  for  breeding,  was  killed 
off  for  food,  and  the  inhabitants  were  reduced  to  an  ear  of  corn  per  day. 
From  the  exhaustion  which  prevailed,  all  labour  was  suspended. 

In  February,  1792,  the  first  lieutenant-governor  arrived.  He  was 
also  commandant  of  the  New  South  Wales  corps.  This  corps  was 
specially  raised  for  service  in  the  colony,  and  was  one  of  the  greatest 
evils  under  which  it  suffered  for  many  years. 

In  December,  1792,  Governor  Philips  returned  to  England. 

In  September,  1795,  Governor  Hunter  arrived,  and  assumed  the 
direction  of  affairs.  His  administration  lasted  until  1802. 

During  the  interregnum  between  Governors  Philips  and  Hunter, 
Captain  Paterson  acted  as  governor. 

In  1794,  the  first  free  settlers  arrived  in  the  colony. 

The  officers  of  the  New  South  Wales  corps  soon  became  merchants, 
and  dealt  in  all  that  was  issued  from  the  public  stores.  Rum  was  the 
great  article  of  traffic ;  and  an  act  was  passed,  that  on  the  arrival  of 
any  vessel  with  stores,  an  issue  of  spirits  from  her  cargo  should  be 
made  to  each  officer  in  proportion  to  his  rank. 

The  officers  also  obtained  the  manifest  of  every  vessel  that  arrived, 
selected  what  they  thought  proper  from  her  cargo,  and  afterwards 
disposed  of  it  to  the  soldiers,  settlers,  and  convicts,  at  a  large  profit. 

They  claimed  the  privilege  of  importing  spirits,  which  was  refused 
to  others,  and  of  selling  it  to  the  non-commissioned  officers,  many  of 
whom  held  licenses  to  sell  spirits  by  retail.  In  this  way,  many  of 
the  officers  of  the  New  South  Wales  corps  realized  large  sums  by 
trade,  and  counteracted  all  the  endeavours  of  the  governor  to  effect  a 
reform  in  the  colony. 

In  September,  1800,  Captain  King  assumed  his  duties  as  governor, 


204  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

and  during  the  whole  of  his  administration,  which  lasted  till  1806, 
provisions  continued  to  be  imported  into  the  colony  at  the  expense  of 
the  home  government,  principally  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and 
Batavia. 

The  military  were  gradually  acquiring  more  power,  and  their 
officers  generally  set  the  laws  at  defiance,  assuming  the  right  of 
landing  spirits  from  every  vessel  that  arrived.  Governor  King  endea- 
voured to  put  a  stop  to  this  practice;  but  the  military,  who  had  become 
powerful  and  influential,  overawed  him.  In  an  evil  hour,  hoping  to 
check  their  power  and  influence,  he  gave  licenses  not  only  to  the 
constables,  but  to  the  jailer,  to  sell  rum ;  and  the  latter,  it  is  said,  was 
allowed  to  keep  a  public  tap-room  opposite  the  jail  door. 

In  consequence  of  this  state  of  things,  the  Governor's  power  was 
very  much  weakened,  if  not  entirely  destroyed,  and  the  whole  settle- 
ment was  thrown  into  confusion.  The  convicts  were  under  no  effi- 
cient control,  and  bands  of  them,  under  the  name  of  Bush-rangers,* 
traversed  the  country,  and  entered  the  houses  of  the  settlers  even  in 
the  open  day,  committing  the  most  fearful  atrocities.  Anarchy  and 
confusion  reigned  every  where. 

The  Castle  Hill  convicts  now  mutinied,  but  were  overcome,  and 
some  of  them  executed. 

Captain  Bligh,  R.  N.  (who  had  commanded  the  Bounty),  succeeded 
Captain  King.  During  his  administration,  rum  was  the  medium  of 
exchange,  and  the  settlers  had  no  other  purchasers  for  their  produce 
but  the  privileged  dealers  in  that  article,  who  took  every  advantage 
of  them. 

In  1807,  two  stills  for  manufacturing  spirits  were  imported  by  Mr. 
M'Arthur  and  Captain  Abbot,  of  the  102d  regiment.  The  Governor 
seized  them,  and  prohibited  distillation  in  the  colony.  Much  discontent 
grew  out  of  this  prohibition ;  and  other  difficulties  occurred,  which 
resulted  in  the  arrest  of  Governor  Bligh  by  the  military,  and  other 
turbulent  persons  in  the  colony,  in  1808.  The  home  government  now 
saw  the  necessity  of  putting  down  this  lawless  spirit,  and  reinstated 
Governor  Bligh ;  but  although  he  was  also  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
admiral,  he  is  said  to  have  died  of  a  broken  heart. 

Governor  Macquarie  was  his  successor.     He  seems  to  have  endea- 

*  The  Bush-rangers  arc  still  very  troublesome  at  times.  In  addition  to  the  runaway 
convicts,  of  which  their  bands  arc  principally  composed,  they  also  include  soldiers  who  have 
deserted.  They  occasionally  commit  great  barbarities,  and  are  consequently  much  dreaded. 
Few  indeed  of  the  lonely  settlements  are  safe  from  their  depredations.  In  order  to  suppress 
them,  there  is  a  body  of  mounted  police ;  but  its  numbers  arc  too  small  to  put  an  effectual 
stop  to  the  evil. 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  205 

voured  to  build  up  Sydney  and  Paramatta  at  the  expense  of  the  morals 
of  the  community,  and  appears  to  have  discouraged  free  emigration. 
The  emancipated  convicts  were  admitted  by  him  to  the  same  privileges 
and  immunities  as  the  free  settlers ;  and  he  treated  the  whole  colony  as 
if  it  were  the  gift  of  the  mother  country  to  those  of  her  subjects  who 
had  outraged  her  laws.  This  policy  soon  had  its  effect  at  home,  where 
it  is  said  that  crimes  were  committed  in  the  hope  of  being  sentenced  to 
transportation  ;  and  it  is  asserted  that  the  emancipated  convicts,  known 
as  ticket-of-leave  men,  were  much  more  desirably  situated  than  honest 
persons  of  their  own  rank  of  life  in  the  mother  country.  Many  of 
these  in  consequence  wrote  to  their  friends  to  come  out  to  them,  and 
pointed  out  the  means  of  doing  so  at  the  expense  of  the  crown.  This 
state  of  things  was  offensive  to  the  free  settlers,  who  opposed  the 
endeavours  of  the  colonial  government  to  break  down  the  distinctions 
that  naturally  exist  between  the  polluted  and  unpolluted.  Their  repug- 
nance was  increased  by  the  attempt,  on  the  part  of  the  emancipated 
convicts,  to  make  property  the  only  qualification  for  acquiring  civil  and 
political  rights.  So  strongly  was  the  line  of  distinction  drawn  by  the 
free  settlers  at  that  time,  that  it  remains  unbroken  to  the  present  day, 
and  affects  even  the  third  and  fourth  generation.  From  the  countenance 
shown  to  the  convicts  by  Governor  Macquarie,  their  minds  have 
become  impressed  with  the  idea  that  the  colony  is  intended  for  their 
benefit ;  and  they  consider  that  they  have  the  best  right  to  administer 
the  government,  while  the  free  emigrants  in  their  opinion  are  inter- 
fering with  their  rights,  by  occupying  all  places  of  emolument  and 
trust.  Sufficient  interest  was  excited  by  the  complaints  of  the  free 
emigrants  to  cause  a  commission  of  inquiry  to  be  appointed.  Much 
good  resulted  from  its  action,  and  a  settled  policy  was  at  length 
adopted  in  relation  to  the  treatment  of  the  convicts. 

Governor  Macquarie  was  succeeded,  in  1821,  by  Sir  Thomas  Bris- 
bane, during  whose  administration  all  restrictions  on  the  press  were 
removed. 

In  1824,  by  an  act  of  Parliament,  a  Supreme  Court  was  established, 
having  equity,  common  law,  admiralty,  and  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction. 
Trial  by  jury  was  authorized  under  certain  limitations,  and  the  Legis- 
lative Council  instituted.  This  was  a  great  improvement  upon  the 
former  system,  and  reduced  the  power  of  the  Governor,  which  had 
before  been  absolute,  while  it  at  the  same  time  gave  him  the  best 
advisers. 

The  Legislative  Council  consisted  of  the  Governor,  with  three  civil 
officers,  and  three  gentlemen  not  holding  office.  The  establishment  of 


200  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

this  body  was  a  step  towards  a  constitutional  form  of  government.  ] 
continued  in  the  original  form,  until,  by  an  act  of  Parliament  in  1826 
it  was  increased  to  not  less  than  ten  or  more  than  fifteen  members,  a 
of  whom  were  appointed  by  the  crown.  At  the  same  time  an  Exect 
tive  Council  was  created,  and  in  these  two  bodies  the  government  o 
the  colony  is  still  vested. 

During  the  administration  of  Sir  Thomas  Brisbane  and  Sir  Ralp 
Darling,  many  improvements  in  policy  took  place.  Among  them  wer 
inducements  to  free  settlers,  and  many  officers  of  the  army  and  nav) 
with  other  respectable  persons,  received  grants  of  land.  The  acqui 
sition  of  a  population  of  a  better  character  furnished  the  means  o 
enforcing  the  laws,  and  removed  the  necessity  of  employing  those  wh 
had  been  guilty  of  crime,  to  effect  its  suppression.  A  better  state  c 
things  succeeded.  Agriculture,  and  particularly  the  raising  of  herd 
and  flocks,  were  promoted  by  the  facilities  afforded  by  the  governmer 
under  the  assignment  system  ;  and  the  resources  of  the  colony  wer 
developed,  particularly  in  the  growth  of  wool,  which  has  now  becom 
its  great  staple.  The  success  of  these  agricultural  efforts,  excited  i 
England,  particularly  among  its  manufacturers,  a  more  direct  intere: 
in  the  colony,  and  attracted  much  attention  to  it ;  in  consequence  o 
which  the  Australian  Agricultural  Company,  in  which  many  influentir 
persons  in  England  became  interested,  was  incorporated  under  a  royj 
charter.  The  avowed  objects  of  this  association  were  to  further  th 
improvement  of  the  cultivation  of  land  in  New  South  Wales,  and  th 
rearing  of  cattle,  horses,  and  fine-woolled  sheep.  The  capital  of  th 
Company  was  a  million  of  pounds  sterling,  and  government  agreed  t 
grant  in  addition  a  million  of  acres  of  land,  in  any  part  of  the  territor 
that  might  be  selected. 

The  agent  of  the  Company,  Mr.  Dawson,  commenced  operations  i 
1826,  at  Port  Stephens,  to  the  north  of  Hunter's  river,  on  a  trac 
selected  by  him  and  the  surveyor-general;  he  continued  to  manag 
their  affairs  until  1829,  when,  in  consequence  of  a  misunderstandin 
between  Mr.  Dawson  and  the  Company,  growing  out  of  the  unavoid* 
ble  difficulties  he  had  to  contend  with,  and  the  many  misrepresent* 
tions  made  by  his  enemies,  he  was  removed,  and  Sir  Edward  Parn 
the  celebrated  polar  navigator,  appointed  in  his  stead. 

Sir  Edward  Parry  continued  in  the  management  until  1836,  whe 
he  retired,  and  was  succeeded  by  Captain  P.  P.  King,  the  able  sui 
veyor,  and  who  still  conducts  the  affairs  of  the  Company.  I  regrette 
much  not  having  been  able  to  accept  of  the  pressing  invitation  to  vis 
Captain  King.  It  affords  me  great  pleasure  to  bear  testimony  to  th 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  207 

correctness  of  his  charts  and  sailing  directions,  which  I  have  on  seve- 
ral occasions  been  called  upon  to  verify  and  trust  to  in  navigating  the 
squadron. 

The  difficulties  encountered  by  Mr.  Dawson,  were  chiefly  owing 
to  the  excessive  droughts  that  occurred  in  the  years  1827,  1828,  and 
1829.  In  these  years  there  was  in  some  districts  an  entire,  and  in 
others  a  partial  failure  of  the  crops,  while  the  pasture-grounds  were 
all  dried  up. 

At  other  times,  continued  rains  would  cause  great  floods;  whole 
districts  of  country  were  overflowed ;  and  along  the  rivers,  not  only 
stacks  of  grain,  but  the  buildings,  were  swept  away.  From  this  it 
may  be  easily  understood  what  difficulties  the  settlers  of  this  country 
have  to  contend  with.  To  these  also  are  to  be  added  the  contests 
between  the  two  parties,  as  to  whether  this  shall  remain  a  penal 
colony  or  become  a  free  one. 

It  is  only  to  be  wondered  that  it  should  have  continued  to  flourish, 
notwithstanding  all  the  impediments  it  has  met  with  from  misrule  and 
anarchy,  growing  out  of  a  neglect  to  establish  any  well-combined 
system  of  policy  in  its  early  stages.  The  governors,  for  want  of  any 
positive  enactments,  were  left  free  to  adopt  such  measures  as  circum- 
stances might  dictate,  and  having  their  attention  engrossed  by  the 
difficulties  with  which  they  were  continually  surrounded,  were  com- 
pelled to  neglect  the  improvement  of  society,  and  took  no  pains  to 
frame  prospective  regulations  for  the  well-being  of  the  colony. 

In  1831,  Governor  Darling  was  superseded  by  Sir  Richard  Bourke. 
The  country  had,  during  the  administration  of  his  two  predecessoi's, 
improved  rapidly  by  the  aid  of  convict  labour.  When  the  latter  gen- 
tleman came  into  office,  the  policy  of  selling  lands,  instead  of  making 
free  grants,  was  adopted ;  this  was  considered  an  important  change 
for  the  colony. 

The  money  arising  from  the  sales  of  land  was  set  apart  by  the  home 
government,  to  be  applied  to  the  immigration  of  free  settlers ;  but  great 
complaints  have  been  made  that  this  fund  has  been  diverted  from  the 
original  object,  or  that  a  surplus  remained  in  the  government  coffers 
unexpended.  Labour  is,  in  consequence,  in  the  greatest  demand  in 
all  parts  of  the  colony,  and  the  inconveniences  of  convict  labour  begin 
to  show  themselves.  From  what  I  could  understand,  the  assignment 
system  is  getting  into  disrepute,  and  all  the  respectable  settlers  are 
now  turning  their  attention  to  the  moral  condition  of  the  colony. 
Strong  representations  have  been  made  to  the  home  government,  and 
an  act  has  been  passed,  by  which  New  South  Wales  is  no  longer  to 
be  a  penal  settlement,  and  transportation  thither  is  to  cease.  The 


208  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

only  points  that  are  now  used  for  this  purpose  are  Moreton  Bay  and 
Norfolk  Island. 

The  principles  upon  which  free  grants  are  made,  have  been  subject 
to  great  fluctuation.  In  Governor  Macquarie's  time,  no  grants  to  a 
single  individual  could  exceed  one  hundred  and  fifty  acres.  Many 
of  the  difficulties  and  evils  that  resulted  from  these  free  grants,  are 
said  to  have  grown  out  of  his  disposition  (miscalled  humane),  which 
led  him  to  view  the  convicts  as  men  in  misfortune,  rather  than  as  the 
outcasts  of  society. 

His  regulations  in  entering  on  his  duties  were  explicit,  "  that  a 
convict  should  receive  a  grant  of  land  only,  when  from  good  conduct 
and  a  disposition  to  industry  he  should  be  found  deserving  of  favour, 
and  of  receiving  emancipation."  In  contradiction  to  the  spirit  of  this 
regulation,  he  made  grants  of  land  to  any  emancipated  convicts,  and 
even  appointed  them  to  ofiice  as  constables,  &c.  These  emancipa- 
tions were  easily  obtained,  and  transportation  became,  as  has  already 
been  stated,  rather  a  reward  than  a  punishment  for  crime.  Instead 
of  bestowing  his  indulgences  only  on  the  deserving,  a  rule  of  action 
which,  if  strictly  carried  into  execution,  would  have  been  productive 
of  good,  both  to  the  rising  community  and  the  convicts  themselves, 
he  dispensed  his  favours  indiscriminately.  He  committed  a  double 
error,  when  in  addition  he  appointed  them  to  office,  thus  placing 
them  over  their  companions  in  crime.  Good  could  not  be  expected 
to  result  from  such  a  course,  and  the  profusion  with  which  land  was 
distributed  among  the  whole  class  of  emancipated  convicts,  whether 
they  had  been  set  free  before  the  expiration  of  their  term  for  good 
behaviour,  or  had  served  their  time  out,  produced  positive  injury. 

During  our  stay  at  Sydney,  a  convict-ship  arrived;  and  being 
desirous  of  obtaining  a  view  of  her  accommodations,  and  the  mode  of 
treating  the  convicts,  I  visited  her.  This  vessel  was  prepared  expressly 
for  the  purpose.  Between  decks,  a  strong  grated  barricade,  well 
spiked  with  iron,  is  built  across  the  ship  at  the  steerage  bulkhead. 
This  affords  the  officers  a  free  view  of  all  that  is  going  on  among  the 
prisoners. 

Bunks  for  sleeping  are  placed  on  each  side  all  the  way  to  the  bow, 
resemblino-  those  in  a  guard-room.  Each  of  these  will  accommodate 

O  cu 

five  persons.  There  is  no  outlet  but  through  a  door  in  the  steerage 
bulkhead,  and  this  is  always  guarded  by  a  sentry.  Light  and  air  are 
admitted  through  the  hatches,  which  are  well  and  strongly  grated. 
The  guard  is  under  the  command  of  a  sergeant,  and  is  accommodated 
in  the  steerage,  the  whole  being  under  the  orders  of  a  surgeon,  whose 
duty  it  is  to  superintend  and  regulate  every  thing  that  relates  to  the 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  209 

prisoners,  inspect  the  ship  daily,  and  administer  punishment,  even  unto 
death  if  necessary.  The  surgeon  also  has  control  over  the  master  of 
the  vessel,  and  his  regulations.  The  master  and  mates,  on  receiving 
a  certificate  from  the  surgeon,  are  allowed  a  small  sum  for  every 
convict  landed,  in  addition  to  their  pay. 

The  criminals  have  prison  fare,  and  are  supplied  \vith  wooden-ware 
for  their  eating  utensils,  which  are  kept  in  very  nice  order.  The 
quarter-deck  is  barricadoed  near  the  main-mast,  abaft  of  which  all  the 
arms  and  accoutrements  of  the  guard  and  vessel  are  kept.  The 
master  and  officers  are  usually  lodged  in  the  poop-cabin.  The  pri- 
soners are  habituated  to  the  discipline  of  the  ship,  on  board  the  hulks, 
before  leaving  England.  The  usual,  and  most  effectual,  punishment 
for  misbehaviour  is  to  place  the  culprit  in  a  narrow  box  on  deck,  in 
which  he  is  compelled  to  stand  erect.  This  punishment  is  said  to  be 
effectual  in  reducing  the  most  refractory  male  convicts  to  order,  but 
it  was  not  found  so  efficacious  in  the  female  convict-ship ;  for,  when 
put  in  the  box,  they  would  bawl  so  loudly,  and  use  their  tongues  so 
freely,  that  it  was  found  necessary  to  increase  the  punishment  by 
placing  a  cistern  of  water  on  the  top  of  the  box.  This  was  turned 
over  upon  those  who  persist  in  using  their  tongues,  and  acted  on  the 
occupant  as  a  shower-bath,  the  cooling  effect  of  which  was  always  and 
quickly  efficacious  in  quieting  them.  I  was  informed  that  more  than 
two  such  showers  were  never  required  to  subdue  the  most  turbulent. 

I  was  struck  with  the  ruddy,  healthy,  and  athletic  looks  of  the 
young  convicts  that  were  arriving,  and  from  their  deportment  and 
countenances  I  should  hardly  have  been  inclined  to  believe  that  they 
had  been  the  perpetrators  of  heinous  crimes. 

I  am  not  at  all  surprised  that  many  of  the  settlers  of  the  colony 
should  be  opposed  to  the  change  in  the  assignment  system  ;  for  when 
such  a  fine  body  of  men  is  seen,  the  reason  is  easily  understood,  as  the 
possession  of  such  strong  and  hale  persons  to  all  intents  and  purposes 
as  slaves,  and  at  the  expense  of  their  maintenance  alone,  must  be  very 
lucrative  to  those  requiring  labourers.  I  am,  on  the  other  hand,  at  a 
loss  to  conceive  how  the  assignment  system  can  be  looked  upon  in  any 
other  light  than  as  a  great  evil,  which  must  be  abolished  if  it  be 
designed  to  make  the  inhabitants  of  New  South  Wales  a  moral 
community,  and  to  reform  the  convicts.  It  acts  most  unequally  on  the 
parties,  and  is  a  barrier  to  the  reformation  that  the  punishment  of 
transportation  is  intended  to  effect. 

The  convicts  on  arriving  are  sent  to  the  barracks  at  Sydney.     The 
government  selects  from  them  such  mechanics  as  are  required  for  the 
public    service,  and  then  the  numerous   applicants  for  labourers  are 
VOL.  n.  27 


210  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

supplied.  Those  assigned  to  private  employers,  are  sent  to  the  interior 
under  the  charge  of  a  constable  or  overseer. 

They  build  their  own  huts,  and  the  climate  being  very  fine,  require 
but  little  shelter.  The  hours  of  labour  are  from  six  to  six,  and  the 
quantity  of  labour  exacted  from  them  is  about  two-thirds  of  what 
would  be  required  in  England.  They  are  treated  in  all  respects  as  if 
they  were  free,  and  no  restraint  is  imposed,  except  that  they  cannot 
leave  their  masters,  who,  when  they  have  no  further  use  for  them, 
return  them  to  the  government  to  be  reassigned. 

When  on  ticket  of  leave,  they  may  reside  in  any  place  they  choose 
to  select. 

The  convict's  time  of  probation  depends  upon  the  original  term  of 
his  sentence  ;  but  on  a  commission  of  crime  within  the  colony,  it  begins 
from  his  last  conviction.  For  refractory  conduct,  they  may  be  taken 
to  the  nearest  magistrate,  who  orders  punishment  on  the  oath  of  the 
master.  The  magistrate  has  also  power  to  send  them  to  the  nearest 
chain-gang  employed  on  public  works.  Here  they  are  worked  in 
irons,  and  kept  on  scanty  food  for  a  limited  period,  after  which  they 
may  be  returned  to  their  masters.  If  badly  treated,  the  convict  may 
have  the  aflair  investigated,  but  redress  comes  slowly. 

One  of  the  great  evils  of  the  system  is,  that  many  of  the  convicts 
on  arriving  are  assigned  to  persons  in  Sydney  and  other  towns,  the 
consequence  of  which  is  that  they  are  exposed  to  the  contaminations 
and  temptations  that  are  likely  to  beset  them  in  those  thickly-peopled 
places,  and  this  too  only  a  few  months  after  their  conviction  in  the 
mother  country.  This  influence  removes  all  hopes  of  reform,  and  they 
are  usually  soon  found  among  the  criminals  of  New  South  Wales. 

All  persons  who  are  landholders  may  receive  convicts  as  assigned 
servants,  in  the  proportion  of  one  to  every  three  hundred  and  twenty 
acres,  but  no  one  proprietor  can  have  in  his  employ  more  than  seventy- 
five  convicts. 

Written  application  for  labourers  is  made  to  the  Board  of  Assignment, 
and  the  applicants  must  bind  themselves  to  keep  the  assigned  convict 
for  at  least  one  month,  and  to  furnish  him  with  food  and  clothing 
agreeably  to  the  government  regulations,  which  are  as  follows,  viz. : 

The  weekly  rations  consist  of  twelve  pounds  of  wheat,  or  nine 
pounds  of  seconds  flour;  or,  in  lieu  thereof,  at  the  discretion  of  the 
master,  three  pounds  of  maize  meal,  and  nine  pounds  of  wheat,  or 
seven  pounds  of  seconds  flour ;  with  seven  pounds  of  beef  or  mutton, 
and  four  pounds  of  corned  pork,  two  ounces  of  salt,  and  two  ounces 
of  soap. 

The  r lothing  for  a  year  is  as  follows,  viz. :  two  frocks  or  jackets, 


OFNEWSOUTHWALES.  211 

three  shirts,  of  strong  linen  or  cotton,  two  pairs  of  trousers,  three  pairs 
of  shoes,  of  stout  durable  leather,  one  hat  or  cap,  and  the  use  of  a  good 
blanket  and  mattrass  belonging  to  the  master. 

Custom,  however,  has  extended  the  above  allowances,  and  the 
quantity  of  luxuries  added  in  tobacco,  sugar,  tea,  and  grog,  makes 
the  amount  nearly  double.  These  additions  have  become  absolutely 
necessary  in  order  to  procure  work  from  the  convicts,  and  ihe  free 
supply  of  them  is  the  only  way  in  which  they  can  be  made  to  work 
in  the  harvest  season.  I  was  informed  that  a  settler  considered  it  all- 
important  to  have  a  large  stock  of  these  luxuries  on  hand  at  the  season 
of  pressure ;  for  although  the  assigned  servants  do  not  actually  refuse 
to  work,  they  do  so  little,  that,  in  order  to  save  his  crop,  the  master 
must  yield  them  the  extra  indulgences. 

Another  evil  attendant  on  the  assignment  system  is  the  difference  in 
the  treatment  they  receive  from  those  to  whom  they  are  assigned. 
On  the  arrival  of  a  convict-ship,  a  large  number  of  persons  who  have 
made  applications  to  the  Board,  are  in  waiting ;  they  of  course  know 
nothing  of  the  character  of  the  convicts,  and,  as  I  learned  from  a  good 
source,  no  record  is  kept,  or  sent  with  the  convicts  themselves.  The 
Board  is  entirely  ignorant  of  their  character  or  crimes,  and  thus  can 
exercise  no  discrimination  in  assigning  the  convict  to  the  hands  of  a 
good  or  of  a  hard  master.  The  greatest  villains  may,  therefore,  fall 
into  kind  hands,  while  one  who  is  comparatively  innocent  may  suffer 
much  more  than  he  deserves. 

The  punishment  of  transportation  must  continue  very  unequal  until 
a  classification  be  resorted  to.  Many  convicts,  by  bad  treatment,  are 
confirmed  in  their  vices. 

For  any  misbehaviour,  they  are,  as  has  been  seen,  subject  to  severe 
castigation  upon  their  master's  making  oath  before  a  magistrate.  This 
not  unfrequently  drives  the  culprit  or  convict  to  further  crime,  and  in 
revenge  for  these  wrongs,  he  either  neglects  his  master's  interest,  or 
has  been  known  to  set  fire  to  his  harvest  when  gathered. 

The  present  system  appears  fitted  to  entail  evil  and  misery  on  the 
colony,  and  there  are  few  disinterested  men  who  do  not  view  it  as 
calculated  to  prevent  any  moral  improvement.  Murders,  robberies, 
and  frauds  are  brought  about  by  it,  for  which  extreme  punishments 
are  of  such  frequent  occurrence  that  it  is  a  matter  of  astonishment 
that  a  stranger  should  remark  that  an  execution  had  taken  place. 
The  day  before  our  arrival  five  criminals  had  been  hung,  and  more 
were  to  suffer  in  a  few  days. 

These  executions  take  place  without  causing  any  unusual  excite- 
ment. There  is  little  doubt  that  the  convict  population  contains 


212  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

among  its  members  many  of  the  most  abandoned  wretches,  and  I  am 
also  aware  that  the  Governor  and  Council  are  making  every  exertion 
to  put  a  stop  to  the  immorality  and  vice  which  so  generally  prevail ; 
yet  I  am  satisfied  that  the  convicts  who  are  assigned  are,  in  some 
cases,  goaded  on  to  crime  by  the  treatment  they  receive  from  their 
masters,  who  hold  them  as  slaves,  and  degrade  them  to  the  level  of  the 
beast  with  whom  they  arc  forced  to  labour. 

Although  Great  Britain  has  a  right  to  assume  a  proud  pre-eminence 
in  her  exertions  to  emancipate  the  blacks,  yet  it  behooves  her  to  look 
to  her  penal  settlements,  and  examine  into  the  tyranny  and  degradation 
that  a  large  number  of  her  subjects  are  suffering  there,  many  of  them 
for  slight  crimes. 

Few  except  those  who  have  visited  this  colony  can  be  aware  of  the 
extent  to  which  the  lash  is  administered,  and  oftentimes  on  the  mere 
pretence  of  unruly  and  bad  behaviour  to  their  masters,  or  for  the  most 
trivial  offences.  So  many  facts  of  this  sort  were  stated  to  me  by 
persons  in  office,  and  of  the  highest  respectability,  that  there  cannot  be 
a  doubt  of  their  correctness.  The  following  extract  from  a  report  of 
the  Committee  of  Transportation  in  1835  will  show  it  in  its  true  light. 

"  In  1835,  the  number  of  convicts  in  the  colony  of  New  South 
Wales  was  above  twenty-eight  thousand,  and  the  summary  convic- 
tions in  that  year  were  estimated  at  twenty-two  thousand.  In  one 
month  in  1833,  two  hundred  and  forty-seven  convicts  were  flogged,  and 
nine  thousand  seven  hundred  and  eighty-four  lashes  inflicted,  which 
would  make  for  the  whole  year  two  thousand  nine  hundred  and  sixty- 
four  floggings,  and  about  one  hundred  and  eight  thousand  lashes. 
This  amount  does  not  embrace  one-third  of  the  convicts  convicted 
summarily,  but  only  those  sentenced  to  be  flogged,  and  there  yet 
remain  those  to  be  added  who  were  sentenced  to  other  degrees  of 
punishment :  male  convicts  to  the  iron-gangs  and  treadmill,  and  females 
to  the  solitary  cells  of  the  factory." 

The  inquiries  that  I  made  in  relation  to  the  native-born  inhabitants, 
were  universally  answered  by  all  in  favour  both  of  their  morals  and 
habits.  Judge  Burton  bears  testimony  that  the  free  immigrants  and 
native  colonists  are  as  exempt  from  the  commission  of  crime  as  the 
inhabitants  of  any  other  country. 

The  defect  in  the  female  assignments  is  equally  obvious.  They  are 
assigned  only  to  married  settlers  who  are  considered  respectable.  They 
are  accompanied  by  their  children  from  the  mother  country,  but  imme- 
diately upon  arriving  the  assignment  takes  place,  and  as  the  party  to 
whom  the  convict  is  assigned  does  not  wish  to  be  encumbered  with  her 
offspring,  they  are  at  once  separated.  The  child  is  not  unfrequently 


OF   NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  313 

removed  from  the  mother  when  at  the  breast,  and  taken  to  the  factory 
at  Paramatta,  where  convicts'  children  are  nursed  and  brought  up. 
The  mother  is  thus  severed  from  her  progeny  for  months,  and,  perhaps, 
for  ever.  The  scenes  that  occur  at  these  separations  are  often  heart- 
rending, and  ought  to  condemn  the  whole  system.  The  feelings  of  the 
poor  creatures  may  be  more  readily  conceived  than  described. 

Connected  with  the  convict  system,  are  the  convict  prisons,  where 
the  road  and  iron-gangs  are  lodged  for  safe  keeping.  There  is  one  on 
the  hill  at  Sydney,  which,  like  most  of  the  buildings  at  Sydney,  bears 
the  name  of  Governor  Macquarie,  1817.  In  it  are  shown  the  guard- 
room, the  working  and  eating-rooms,  and  dormitories,  all  of  which  are 
well  ventilated.  The  prisoners  sleep  in  hammocks,  swung  from 
parallel  bars  a  few  feet  above  the  floor.  A  whipping-post  was  shown 
in  an  adjoining  yard.  The  older  prisoners  are  kept  at  work  making 
brooms. 

The  female  convicts  who  do  not  conduct  themselves  well,  are  sent 
back  to  the  factory  at  Paramatta,  where  they  are  engaged  in  prison 
labour.  The  practice  of  keeping  them  in  great  numbers  there,  after 
they  have  been  sent  back,  is  liable  to  many  objections,  and  is  not 
calculated  to  produce  reformation.  It  is  very  questionable  whether 
their  employment  in  small  parties  would  not  have  a  greater  tendency 
to  produce  the  desired  reform. 

The  factory  at  Paramatta  is  situated  on  the  river,  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  centre  of  the  town,  near  the  place  where  the  steamboats  stop. 
It  is  a  large  stone  building,  enclosed  with  high  walls,  and  usually  con- 
tains one  thousand  inmates.  A  part  of  these  are  those  female  convicts 
who  have  not  yet  been  assigned ;  and  the  rest,  those  who  have  been 
remanded  for  their  refractory  conduct.  Many  of  the  settlers  have,  from 
necessity,  taken  these  females  into  their  service,  and  have  been  quite 
glad  to  get  rid  of  them ;  for  their  corrupting  influence  had  often 
resulted  in  the  total  ruin  of  the  male  servants  who  had  been  assigned  in 
the  same  family. 

It  is  only  lately  that  good  order  has  been  introduced  into  this  esta- 
blishment, and  this  is  owing  to  the  supervision  and  care  of  Sir  George 
Gipps.  The  accounts  of  the  disorder  in  it  in  former  times  are  truly 
disgusting. 

These  females  are  now  divided  into  three  classes,  according  to  their 
ability  and  behaviour,  of  which  the  latter  is  more  especially  attended 
to.  The  first  class  is  employed  in  making  linen  clothing,  such  as 
shirts,  children's  clothes,  &c.,  and  do  much  work  for  the  shop-keepers 
in  Sydney.  The  second,  in  making  up  coarse  articles  of  apparel  for 


214  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

government,  and  shop-keepers ;  the  third,  in  picking  oakum,  washing 
for  the  establishment,  and  plaiting  straw. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  a  more  hideous  community;  and 
those  who  visited  this  establishment  could  scarcely  realize  the  possi- 
bility that  Great  Britain  could  have  produced  such  an  assemblage  of 
ugly  creatures.  It  is  hardly  conceivable  that  the  feminine  character 
could  ever  have  existed  under  faces,  in  which  all  traces  of  gentle 
expression  have  long  since  been  annihilated,  and  where  the  countenance 
now  indicates  only  the  prevalence  of  the  baser  passions. 

Some  of  the  rooms  were  crowded,  the  inmates  sitting  on  two  rows 
of  benches.  Upon  our  entrance  they  discontinued  their  occupations, 
and  saluted  us  with  disgusting  leering  faces,  staring  at  us  with  a 
malignity  and  hatred  that  were  not  soon  forgotten. 

The  rooms  appeared  well  ventilated,  and  scrupulously  clean.  I 
wish  I  could  say  as  much  for  the  prisoners  themselves :  they  were  dirty 
and  slovenly  in  their  appearance,  and  were  clothed  in  a  coarse  drug- 
get gown,  a  cap  and  neckerchief  of  cotton. 

The  discipline  is  very  strict,  and  maintained  by  a  person  who  at 
one  time  was  the  most  unmanageable  convict  they  ever  had  confined 
there.  She  now  holds  the  place  of  matron,  and  has  the  management 
of  the  females,  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  Bell,  who  is  the  superin- 
tendent of  the  whole  establishment. 

Until  she  was  appointed,  no  sort  of  order  was  maintained.  We 
understood  that  her  conduct  has  been  excellent  since  she  filled  the 
place.  She  is  a  tall  masculine  woman,  of  some  intelligence,  and  has 
a  watchfulness  of  manner  that  shows  she  is  an  adept  at  her  busi- 
ness. She  told  us  that  the  punishment  for  misconduct  was  solitary 
confinement,  on  bread  and  water,  and  for  smaller  misdemeanours, 
working  at  the  crank  of  the  pumps  which  supply  the  establishment 
with  water. 

The  children  are  in  a  room  by  themselves,  and  there  are  about  one 
hundred  of  them,  from  the  infant  to  the  child  of  seven  or  eight  years 
of  age.  They  all  looked  healthy,  were  very  playful,  and  appeared  to 
be  well  taken  care  of.  There  are  twenty  nurses  who  attend  to  them. 
It  gave  us  much  pleasure,  when  the  matron  entered  with  us,  to  see 
them  all  come  running  up  to  her,  demonstrating  her  kind  treatment  of 
them,  and  the  affection  they  bear  her. 

To  Mr.  Bell,  the  superintendent,  we  were  much  indebted  for  his 
civility.  He  appeared  well  qualified  for  the  management  of  so  ex- 
tensive and  dilficult  a  concern.  He  explained  every  thing  to  us, 
answering  the  numerous  questions  put  to  him  with  great  pleasure  and 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  315 

politeness.  This  visit  was  particularly  gratifying,  as  affording  a  view 
of  one  of  the  most  important  features  of  this  great  penal  establishment. 

Around  Paramatta  and  Sydney,  another  such  feature  is  to  be  seen 
in  the  iron-gangs.  These  consist  of  the  men  who  have  not  been 
assigned,  and  likewise  of  all  those  who  are  returned  by  their  masters. 
They  are  met  with  upon  the  roads,  working  in  pairs,  chained  together. 
Their  dress  is  peculiar,  and  they,  in  consequence,  cannot  readily 
escape  detection  in  case  of  absconding.  On  the  back  of  the  jacket  is 
marked,  in  conspicuous  letters,  "  chain-gang."  They  wear  a  canvass 
jacket  and  trousers,  and  a  jockey-cap.  They  were  a  rough-looking 
set,  with  bad  countenances,  and,  like  all  other  prisoners,  stared  us 
broadly  in  the  face.  Sentinels  or  guards  constantly  accompanied 
them. 

The  English  are  very  partial  to  this  mode  of  treating  criminals, 
and  cannot  be  persuaded  that  any  better  course  can  be  devised ;  yet  it 
is  attended  with  obvious  evils. 

For  a  trifling  and  first  offence,  a  perpetual  brand  of  infamy  is  set 
upon  a  fellow-mortal,  his  family,  and  connexions.  The  natural  con- 
sequence has  been  to  foster  and  keep  alive  a  public  opinion  which 
tends  to  the  disorganization  of  society,  and  to  obliterate  all  that  re- 
mains of  principle  in  the  criminal. 

The  convict  who  has  just  arrived,  is  regarded  by  the  others  as  a 
simpleton  and  a  mere  novice ;  and  they  undertake  to  complete  his 
education. 

The  exploits  and  crimes  performed  and  committed  by  these  hard- 
ened offenders  in  Australia,  New  Zealand,  and  the  islands  of  Poly- 
nesia, exhibit  a  dark  picture ;  and  the  annoyance  thus  inflicted  upon 
their  inhabitants  would  not  be  borne,  had  they  the  strength  to  resist  it. 
Power  is  the  only  right  that  can  be  urged  by  Great  Britain  as  a  justi- 
fication of  this  infliction,  arid  that  it  would  be  useless  to  question. 

The  majority  of  convicts  are  either  assigned  servants  or  ticket-of- 
leave  men,  and  their  condition  is  not  unlike  that  of  the  slaves  in  our 
Southern  States.  They  form  a  distinct  class,  and  may  be  considered 
as  the  original  groundwork  of  the  colony.  At  present  they  constitute 
about  a  third  of  the  population,  but  when  transportation  ceases,  their 
relative  numbers  will  rapidly  decrease. 

This  colony,  take  it  all  in  all,  is  in  spite  of  these  drawbacks  a  noble 
one,  and  is  a  new  proof  of  the  superiority  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race, 
and  of  its  enterprise  and  perseverance  in  overcoming  difficulties. 

I  understood  that  Sir  George  Gipps  had  determined  to  adopt  Captain 
Maconochie's  system  in  the  management  of  the  road-gangs,  and  shall 
therefore  proceed  to  examine  it. 


21G  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

Captain  Maconochie's  argument  for  the  necessity  of  a  change  is 
founded  on  the  admitted  fact,  that  the  example  of  severe  suffering  on 
the  conviction  of  crime,  has  not  hitherto  been  found  effective  in  pre- 
venting its  recurrence.  He  maintains  that  the  sole  and  direct  object 
of  secondary  punishments  should  be  the  reformation  of  the  individual 
culprit,  or  at  all  events  his  subjugation,  and  his  training  to  self-com- 
mand, by  the  latter  of  which  he  may  give  satisfactory  proof  that  he 
deserves  a  restoration  to  his  privileges  in  society.  He  does  not  pro- 
scribe punishment,  but  on  the  contrary  believes  it  indispensable  to 
induce  penitence  and  submission;  he  regards  it  as  necessary  as  a 
deterring  example,  and  not  for  a  vindictive  end. 

An  entire  reform,  or  a  self-control  tantamount  to  it,  can,  in  his 
opinion,  be  obtained  only  by  specific  punishments  for  the  past,  and  by 
a  training  for  the  future.  To  effect  this  latter  he  proposes  to  group 
prisoners  together  in  associations,  made  to  resemble  those  of  common 
life  as  closely  as  possible,  subdividing  them  into  small  parties  or 
families,  as  may  be  agreed  on  among  themselves,  with  common 
interest ;  that  they  shall  receive  wages  in  the  form  of  marks  of  com- 
mendation, which  they  may  exchange  at  will  for  immediate  gratifi- 
cations, but  of  which  a  fixed  accumulation  should  be  required  before 
receiving  freedom.  He  thus  hopes  to  prepare  them  for  society  in 
society,  giving  them  a  field  for  the  exercise  and  cultivation  of  social 
virtues,  as  well  as  for  the  voluntary  restraint  of  vices. 

Captain  Maconochie  deems  the  union  of  punishment  for  the  past, 
with  training  for  the  future,  as  totally  incompatible  with  each  other, 
and,  therefore,  thinks  that  the  former  must  in  all  cases  precede  the 
latter,  and  be  effectual  of  itself.  He  argues,  that  success  in  medical 
treatment  by  beginning  to  administer  restoratives  before  the  disease 
is  eradicated,  might  as  well  be  expected  as  reform  while  punishment 
is  undergone;  and  that  it  is  just  as  necessary  to  prepare  for  society  in 
society,  as  to  train  man  by  a  preliminary  education  to  the  useful 
employments  of  life ;  that  it  seems  idle  to  expect  that  mere  theoretical 
instruction,  however  strongly  enforced  by  short  but  severe  suffering, 
should  be  sufficient  to  enable  persons  advanced  in  life  to  guide  their 
future  conduct,  as  it  would  be  to  hope  to  teach  a  trade,  or  any  other 
practical  employment,  by  abstract  rules ;  and  that  moral  lessons,  to  be 
taught  profitably,  require  a  field  of  progressive  experimental  applica- 
tion just  as  much  as  engineering. 

On  these  elementary  principles  Captain  Maconochie  founds  his  plan 
of  convict  management,  to  which  he  applies  the  name  of  "  Social 
System,"  and  trusts  for  its  success  to  the  application  of  moral  force  in 
the  place  of  physical  coercion.  He  considers  that  hitherto  the  reform 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  217 

of  culprits  has  not  been  thought  the  principal  object  in  regulating  their 
treatment. 

The  object  of  deterring  from  the  commission  of  crime  has  been  the 
duty  of  the  law  for  the  protection  of  society,  and  the  association  of 
prisoners  has  been  deemed  morally  hurtful  to  them. 

The  Social  System  proposes  to  change  this  course  to  one  in  fact 
directly  opposite  to  it.  In  criminal  administration,  according  to  his 
views,  society  is  at  present  placed  in  one  scale,  and  the  culprit  in  the 
other,  and  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  weight  of  the  former  should 
predominate. 

He  proposes,  that  the  nature  of  the  punishment  should  be  severe  and 
short;  that  it  should  melt  into  probation,  and  this  again  into  entire 
freedom,  by  changes  as  gradual  as  possible ;  thus  taking  nature  as  the 
guide,  and  copying  what  occurs  on  any  severe  misfortune  befalling  us, 
at  first  overwhelming  grief,  then  a  retrospective  one,  which  afterwards 
slowly  gives  place  to  hope  and  encouragement. 

To  carry  this  out,  it  would  be  necessary  to  have  solitary  impri- 
sonment, with  moral  and  religious  exhortations  inculcated  during 
sequestration  from  external  influences,  with  permission  to  work,  and 
instructions  in  its  performance,  but  without  the  power  of  exchanging 
the  proceeds  for  indulgences;  next,  separate  imprisonment,  with  the 
power  of  exchanging  marks  of  good  conduct  for  gratifications,  to  be 
prolonged  until  the  accumulation  of  a  certain  number  of  marks  over 
and  above  all  those  exchanged  for  indulgences,  should  exhibit  the 
acquisition  of  habits  of  self-control. 

To  this  second  stage  should  succeed  social  labour  through  the  day, 
with  separate  confinement  at  night,  and  at  length  a  complete  admission 
to  a  society,  in  which  the  convicts  should  choose  their  associates,  and 
be  mutually  responsible  for  the  good  behaviour  of  each  other. 

In  passing  through  such  a  course  of  discipline,  both  of  the  ends 
which  have  been  spoken  of  will  be  attained.  The  guilty  will  be  first 
punished,  and  afterwards  rendered  fit  for  society  by  reformation  and 
training,  and  will  be  thus  restored  to  that  state  in  which  he  was  before 
he  committed  the  crime,  after  he  has  been  well  tried  and  found  worthy 
of  being  re-established  in  it. 

As  far  as  I  could  understand,  Captain  Maconochie  was  not  prepared 
to  prescribe  the  exact  manner  in  which  his  views  were  to  be  carried 
out,  and  did  not  appear  to  set  much  value  upon  the  mode,  provided  his 
principles  were  kept  in  view.  He  was  of  opinion  that  the  principal 
error  in  modern  penal  science  is  the  importance  attached  to  physical 
arrangement  in  the  construction  of  prisons. 

According  to  him,  the  less  stress  that  is  set  upon  them  the  better, 
VOL.  n.  28 


218  HISTORY,    GOVERNTMENT,    ETC., 

for  it  is  not  the  body  alone  that  is  to  be  kept  captive,  but  the  will  also ; 
and  the  more  care  that  is  taken  to  guard  the  former,  the  less  can  the 
latter  be  attended  to. 

The  peculiar  trait  in  the  Social  System  is,  that  after  punishment 
every  culprit's  lot  would  be  in  his  own  hands.  His  companions  would 
be  of  his  own  choice,  and  the  length  of  his  detention  and  comfort 
would  depend  upon  the  conduct  of  himself  and  his  associates. 

In  seeking  the  reformation  of  the  culprit,  the  mutual  action  of 
companions  on  each  other  would  be  resorted  to,  and  this  would  be 
productive  of  great  advantages.  No  system  could  be  more  just ;  and 
its  language  to  the  criminal  would  be, — "  Having  made  you  pay  the 
penalty  for  your  crime,  I  now  retain  you  until  you  are  qualified  to 
meet  the  requisitions  of  society  on  your  return  to  it,  that  you  may  not 
fail  as  you  have  before  done." 

The  results  of  this  system  could  not  but  be  far  different  from  the 
plans  in  present  use,  which  have  reference  only  to  crime  and  retribu- 
tion, and  may  be  considered  useless  in  promoting  reformation.  I 
understood  that  Sir  George  Gipps  had  already  partially  and  success- 
fully adopted  the  Social  System  with  the  convicts  in  government 
employ,  by  associating  them  in  bands  of  ten  to  twenty,  and  letting 
them  work  on  the  public  roads.  Some  of  them  were  pointed  out  to 
me,  and  in  point  of  appearance  were  as  orderly  and  cheerful  as  any 
free  labourers.  I  was  informed  that  they  do  more  work  than  when 
watched  by  overseers  or  soldiers. 

I  saw,  however,  many  iron-gangs,  but  was  informed  that  they  were 
composed  of  individuals  who  had  committed  offences  in  the  colony. 
After  the  commission  of  several  crimes  in  the  colony,  they  are  again 
transported,  to  Norfolk  Island,  where  Captain  Maconochie  is  stationed ; 
and  it  may  well  excite  surprise  if  he  should  succeed  in  reforming  these 
double-refined  villains. 

Many  circumstances  have  been  told  me,  by  those  who  are  well 
acquainted  with  the  facts,  that  such  is  their  detestation  of  Norfolk 
Island,  and  their  horror  of  remaining  there,  that  convicts  have  drawn 
lots  to  commit  crimes,  and  even  murder,  in  order  to  be  sent  back  to 
Sydney  for  trial.* 

Captain  Maconochie's  system  is  looked  upon  by  many  as  Utopian, 
and  it  has  excited  no  little  astonishment  that  any  one  should  conceive 
the  idea  of  affording  to  criminals  the  refined  amusements  of  society, 
or  that  books,  music,  &c.,  should  be  furnished  them. 

I  have  given  this  short  sketch  of  the  Social  System  in  order  to  show 

*  It  is  the  intention  of  the  government  to  erect  on  Norfolk  Island  a  penitentiary,  on  the 
plan  of  that  at  Sing  Sing,  in  the  State  of  New  York.  The  estimated  cost  was  .£200,000. 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  219 

its  general  plan.  For  a  more  full  account  of  il,  I  would  refer  to 
Captain  Maconochie's  papers,  published  at  different  times.  I  spent 
several  agreeable  hours  with  him ;  and  am  satisfied  that  with  the  well- 
educated  description  of  criminals,  and  with  those  who  may  have 
friends  to  return  to,  it  will  probably  answer ;  but  I  am  disposed  to 
think  that  the  great  objection  lies  in  the  feelings  of  society,  and  its 
reluctance  to  readmit  its  outcasts  on  any  terms,  much  less  place  them 
on  a  footing  of  equality. 

There  are  two  forms  of  social  management  proposed,  one  by 
Captain  Maconochie,  the  other  by  Lord  Howick :  the  former  has  been 
sufficiently  explained;  the  latter  includes  both  punishment  and  train- 
ing in  the  insular  penitentiaries,  from  which  release  may  be  complete, 
or  merely  through  the  medium  of  a  ticket-of-leave  in  the  colonies. 

The  latter  form  I  believe  is  that  which  has  been  adopted,  and  from 
what  I  learn,  it  seems  to  be  succeeding,  although  I  have  not  been 
informed  that  any  public  account  has  yet  been  given  of  it.  The 
system  is  about  being  adopted  in  Van  Diemen's  Land,  which  is  a 
convincing  proof  that  government  has  become  somewhat  satisfied 
with  its  efficacy ;  and  it  is  noticed  in  one  of  the  late  Gazettes,  that 
Captain  Maconochie  had  treated  his  prisoners,  on  the  Queen's  birth- 
day (with  the  approbation  of  the  government),  to  a  play  and  punch  ; 
which  is  a  proof  that  some  had  already  reached  the  probationary  state. 

The  ration  of  the  soldiers  in  New  South  Wales  consists  of  one 
pound  of  meat,  one  pound  of  bread,  two-thirds  of  a  pint  of  rum,  and 
an  allowance  of  five-pence  for  small  stores,  consisting  of  salt,  sugar, 
tea,  &c.  They  receive  as  pay  eight-pence  per  day,  and  are  obliged 
to  serve  twenty  years  before  they  can  claim  their  discharge. 

The  convict  gets  one  pound  of  bread,  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
meat,  and  one  pint  of  meal.  Indeed,  there  is  very  little  difference  in 
the  condition  of  a  soldier  and  a  convict,  and  were  it  not  for  the  name, 
one  would  be  almost  induced  to  prefer  the  situation  of  the  latter. 

There  is  a  description  of  convicts,  as  has  been  mentioned,  known 
under  the  title  of  ticket-of-leave  men.  These,  from  good  behaviour 
before  the  expiration  of  their  term  of  sentence,  are  permitted  to  hire 
themselves  out,  upon  the  employer  entering  into  a  stipulation  to  main- 
tain a  strict  watch  over  them.  This  custom  has  no  doubt  been  forced 
upon  the  community  by  the  want  of  servants,  and  the  necessity  of 
obtaining  them.  The  action  of  this  part  of  the  system  will  be  shown 
more  clearly  by  the  following  anecdote. 

One  day,  passing  along  George  Street  with  a  friend,  my  attention 
was  called  to  a  fashionable  equipage,  with  a  well-dressed  man  driving 
it.  On  my  asking  to  whom  it  belonged,  I  was  informed  that  the  person 


220  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

driving  it  was  the  owner,  and  that  although  a  ticket-of-leave  man,  he 
was  married  to  a  free  woman  of  handsome  fortune,  living  in  one  of 
the  finest  houses  in  Sydney ;  that  their  house  was  built  on  the  very 
spot  where  he  stood  under  the  gallows  some  years  since,  although 
through  a  reprieve,  or  some  accident,  he  had  not  been  hung  ;  and  that 
it  was  at  any  time  within  the  power  of  the  wife  to  send  him  off  to  the 
whipping-post,  and  have  him  severely  flogged.  There  are  many 
convicts  who  are  now  the  most  wealthy  people  of  New  South  Wales. 
I  do  not  intend  to  be  understood  that  they  mix  at  all  in  the  society  of 
the  better  class ;  on  the  contrary,  the  convicts  and  their  descendants, 
even  to  the  third  and  fourth  generation,  are  excluded  from  it. 

Society  here  is  composed  of  many  distinct  circles.  All  those  of  the 
first  class  are  entitled  to  be  received  at  the  Government  House,  or  are 
invited  there.  This  privilege  seems  at  present  to  be  the  touchstone  of 
gentility;  and  if  an  inquiry  is  now  made  of  the  standing  of  any  one,  it 
is  quite  sufficient  to  say  he  visits  at  the  Government  House. 

Any  connexion  with  convicts  would  at  once  preclude  admission  to 
this  circle ;  and  so  distinctly  has  this  line  been  drawn,  and  so  closely 
is  it  adhered  to,  that  should  an  officer,  or  other  person,  contract 
marriage  ties  with  any  one  of  the  lower  classes,  he  would  forthwith 
be  shut  out.  This  state  of  things  naturally  leads  to  many  heartburnings 
among  the  rising  generation,  who  have  every  thing  to  recommend 
them  but  a  pure  descent ;  whose  behaviour  is  acknowledged  by  all  to 
be  irreproachable,  and  who  among  the  community  stand  deservedly 
very  high,  some  of  them  occupying  posts  of  high  trust  and  responsibility 
among  men  of  business,  and  not  a  few  of  them  being  at  the  head  of 
large  moneyed  institutions. 

These  differences  frequently  break  out  when  subscription  balls  are 
given,  and  result  in  challenges  being  sent  to  the  managers.  One  oc- 
curred on  the  giving  of  the  St.  Patrick's  ball.  A  Mr.  D.  was  admitted 
as  a  subscriber  by  the  committee;  he  afterwards  asked  for  a  ticket  for 
a  friend  of  his,  which  was  refused.  Objections  were  then  taken  to 
himself,  and  he  was  requested  to  withdraw  his  name,  and  receive  back 
his  money.  This  brought  forth  a  challenge,  which  was  disposed  of  in 
a  summary  manner  by  the  committee  handing  him  over  to  the  police, 
by  which  he  was  obliged  to  apologize  to  the  committee,  and  bound 
over  to  keep  the  peace.  I  cannot  but  believe  that  this  state  of  society- 
is  destined  in  a  very  short  time  to  undergo  a  great  change ;  and  many 
of  the  inhabitants  seem  to  be  of  the  same  opinion,  particularly  if  they 
obtain  a  colonial  legislature.  This  it  seems  almost  indispensable  they 
should  have,  for  the  wishes  and  wants  of  the  rising  community  are  too 
little  known  and  heeded,  at  the  distance  of  sixteen  thousand  miles,  to 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  221 

insure  good  government ;  and  the  acts  and  the  varying  policy  of  the 
mother  country  are  so  ill  adapted  to  the  state  of  things  here,  as  to 
strike  the  most  common  observers,  and  only  tend  to  loosen  the  ties  of 
affection  that  bind  the  colonists  to  it. 

The  introduction  of  free  emigration,  and  the  discontinuance  of  the 
use  of  the  colony  as  a  penal  settlement,  must  soon  produce  the  necessity 
of  legislative  bodies,  and  the  elections  will  give  the  wealthy  part  of  the 
citizens,  emancipists  and  their  descendants,  a  powerful  voice  in  those 
bodies  when  constituted,  which  will  finally  lead  to  their  amalgamation 
with  the  higher  classes.  I  was  surprised  to  find  among  the  emancipists 
themselves  the  same  distinctions  kept  up. 

The  labouring  class  of  free  emigrants  form  another  class.  They 
have  great  difficulties  to  contend  with  on  their  landing.  As  few  of 
them  will  consent  to  serve  as  domestics  in  association  with  ticket-of- 
leave  men  or  convicts,  they  find  themselves  placed  in  many  difficult 
situations.  They  are  compelled  to  resort  to  the  public  inns  kept  by 
these  people,  who  endeavour  to  take  every  advantage  of  them,  and 
cause  them  to  part  with  what  little  amount  they  may  have  brought 
with  them  from  the  mother  country.  They  soon  become  destitute,  and 
from  disappointment  betake  themselves  to  all  the  vices  of  the  convict 
class.  Some  steps  have  been  taken  to  provide  for  the  emigrants  on 
their  first  arrival,  under  the  government  system  ;  but  they  have  not  yet 
been  carried  into  effect,  and  it  is  difficult  to  enforce  them. 

There  is  yet  another  class,  and  one,  as  far  as  my  experience  goes, 
now  unknown  elsewhere,  which  sets  at  defiance  both  law  and  regula- 
tions. I  mean  a  class  known  here  by  the  name  of  "  Crimps,"  who  are 
a  pest  to  the  trade  of  the  port,  and  the  destruction  of  all  the  sailors 
who  visit  it.  Their  trade  or  employment  may  be  summed  up  in  a 
few  words :  it  is  to  entice  or  kidnap  sailors  from  their  ships,  and  keep 
them  drunk  and  concealed  in  some  out-of-the-way  place.  Whole 
crews  of  merchantmen  are  frequently  carried  off  by  these  fellows,  and 
they  are  in  consequence  at  times  detained  until  the  master  or  assignee 
resorts  to  the  agents  of  these  crimps,  who  are  ready  to  give  them 
a  crew  at  four  or  five  guineas  for  each  sailor.  I  was  told,  a  few 
days  after  my  arrival,  that  the  crimps  had  determined  to  get  some  of 
the  men  of  the  squadron ;  and  they  succeeded  in  enticing  away  the 
crew  of  the  tender  Flying-Fish  and  three  or  four  other  men  belonging 
to  the  ships.  The  vigilance  and  system  of  these  crimps  bid  defiance 
to  the  laws  and  police,  who  although  quite  aware  of  the  existence 
of  the  evil,  find  it  out  of  their  power  to  put  a  stop  to  it.  Since  my 
departure,  the  shipping  interests  have  memorialized  the  Government 
and  Council,  and  there  is  a  prospect  that  this  nuisance  will  be  abated. 


222  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

As  respects  the  higher  class  of  society,  it  is  in  all  respects  the  same 
as  is  met  with  in  England  and  America,  among  well-educated  persons. 
Perhaps  as  to  fashion  it  is  a  little  more  colonial,  but  not  more  so  than 
the  distance  from  whence  fashions  originate  would  account  for.  The 
cordial  welcome  and  hospitality  we  met  with  could  not  be  surpassed 
any  where. 

The  Governor  is  appointed  by  letters  patent,  under  the  great  seal 
of  the  United  Kingdom ;  but  he  acts  under  the  direction  of  the 
legislature. 

The  Legislative  Council  consists  of  a  number  not  exceeding  fifteen, 
and  not  less  than  ten ;  the  members  are  appointed  by  the  King,  and 
are  all  residents  within  the  colony. 

The  Governor  is  president  of  this  council,  and  is  entitled  to  vote  as 
a  member  upon  all  questions ;  when  it  is  equally  divided,  he  has  an 
additional  or  casting  vote.  To  the  Governor  and  Council  is  delegated 
the  power  to  make  laws  for  the  peace,  welfare,  and  good  government 
of  the  colony,  not  repugnant  to  any  act,  charter,  &c.,  which  may  have 
been  issued,  or  to  the  laws  of  England ;  and  no  law  or  ordinance  can 
be  passed,  unless  first  laid  before  the  Council  by  the  Governor. 

The  Governor  is,  by  statute,  invested  with  the  right  of  property  in 
the  services  of  offenders  or  convicts  who  have  been  transported,  and 
he  may  assign  this  right  to  others.  He  is  captain-general  and 
governor-in-chief,  and  has  full  control  over  all  the  military  and  civil 
authorities.  He  is  empowered,  and  required,  to  administer  oaths  to 
the  Chief  Justice,  and  the  members  of  the  Executive  Council;  to  keep 
the  public  seal ;  and  is  invested  with  authority  to  suspend  members  of 
the  Executive  Council,  and  to  supply  their  place,  as  well  as  to  appoint 
temporary  members  to  fill  vacancies. 

He  appoints  all  justices  of  the  peace,  coroners,  constables,  and  other 
necessary  officers. 

He  has  the  power  to  grant  pardons,  reprieves,  &c.,  and  to  remit 
punishments  for  offences,  treason,  or  wilful  murder,  only  excepted ; 
for  which  upon  extraordinary  occasions,  he  can  reprieve  until  the 
pleasure  of  the  crown  be  known.  His  power  to  shorten  the  time  of 
transportation  is  limited,  by  the  condition  that  all  instruments  in  writing 
for  that  purpose  are  to  be  approved  by  the  crown. 

With  the  advice  of  the  Executive  Council,  he  is  empowered  to  divide 
the  territory,  and  its  dependencies,  into  districts,  counties,  towns,  &c., 
to  fortify  and  erect  forts,  and  provide  for  the  defence  of  the  country. 

All  public  moneys  are  issued  for  the  support  of  the  government 
by  warrant  from  the  Governor,  but  only  for  purposes  particularly 
pointed  out. 


OF   NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  223 

He  may  give  titles  to  crown  lands.  He  has  also  power  to  appoint 
fairs,  marts,  markets,  ports,  harbours,  bays,  and  havens. 

The  person  who  succeeds,  in  case  of  the  death  or  absence  of  the 
Governor,  is  the  Lieutenant-Governor,  and  next  to  him,  the  Commander 
of  the  Forces. 

The  Executive  Council  consists  of  four  persons  holding  office  in  the 
colony. 

1st.  The  senior  officer  of  the  Forces.  2d.  The  Bishop  of  Australia. 
3d.  The  Colonial  Secretary  of  New  South  Wales ;  and  4th,  the  Colo- 
nial Treasurer :  the  two  latter  for  the  time  being.  These  are  appointed 
by  letters  patent,  under  the  great  seal.  It  is  a  council  of  advice  and 
restraint,  and  the  matters  on  which  they  are  to  be  consulted  are 
especially  mentioned  in  their  commission. 

The  Legislative  Council  consists  of  fifteen  persons,  including  the 
Governor,  seven  of  whom  hold  offices  under  the  government,  and 
during  royal  pleasure,  viz. : 

1st.  Chief  Justice.  2d.  Bishop  of  Australia.  3d.  The  Commander 
of  the  Forces.  4th.  The  Colonial  Secretary.  5th.  The  Attorney- 
General.  6th.  The  Collector  of  the  Customs.  7th.  The  Auditor- 
General  ;  with  seven  others  who  do  not  hold  offices,  but  are  nominated 
by  the  crown. 

As  is  truly  said  in  the  colony,  they  are  governed  by  the  royal  pre- 
rogative, exercised  in  the  person  of  the  Governor. 

The  rules  for  his  guidance,  and  that  of  all  colonial  officers,  are 
issued  by  the  Secretary  of  State,  and  are  to  be  found  in  a  pamphlet 
form,  under  the  title  of  "  Colonial  Rules  and  Regulations."  Great 
complaints  are  made  in  the  colony  that  these  are  altogether  one- 
sided. In  them  it  is  notified  that  the  appointment  or  term  of  the 
Governor's  office  is  limited  to  a  period  of  six  years,  from  the  time  of 
his  assumption  of  his  duties ;  the  crown  reserving  the  power  of  pro- 
longing that  period. 

The  great  complaint  in  the  colony  is,  that  the  policy  of  the  govern- 
ment at  home  is  always  fluctuating  with  the  change  of  the  incumbent 
who  holds  the  office  of  Secretary  of  State.  This  happens  with  every 
change  in  political  parties  in  the  mother  country,  and  the  office  is  often 
held  by  persons  who  have  very  little  knowledge  or  experience  in  colo- 
nial affairs,  and  consequently  regulations  are  from  time  to  time  issued, 
and  particular  orders  for  the  guidance  of  the  Governor  are  frequently 
sent  him,  which  leaves  him  little  or  no  independence  in  the  perform- 
ance of  his  duties. 

At  the  distance  at  which  New  South  Wales  is  situated,  it  may 
readily  be  conceived  what  inconvenience  is  felt  by  the  Governor  and 


224  HISTORY,   GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

Council  in  carrying  out  what  they  deem  best  for  the  interests  of  the 
colony.  They  have  no  power  or  control  over  the  revenue,  which  in 
reality  is  under  the  supervision  and  direction  of  the  Lords  Commis- 
sioners of  her  Majesty's  treasury. 

The  Governor  is  not  allowed  to  expend  any  sum  over  £200  for  any 
one  service,  (unless  under  very  urgent  circumstances,)  without  the 
previous  sanction  of  the  home  government ;  and  although  at  liberty  to 
draw  that  amount,  it  is  on  his  own  responsibility ;  he  must  account  for 
it,  and  show  the  absolute  necessity  for  its  use. 

The  estimates  for  the  ensuing  year  are  made  in  June,  and  forwarded 
for  approval.  The  expenditure  must  be  limited  by  this  estimate,  and 
no  further  disbursements  applied  for  on  account  of  that  year,  unless 
under  circumstances  entirely  unforeseen. 

The  estimate,  after  undergoing  the  supervision  of  the  colonial  legis- 
lative body,  must  also  undergo  the  scrutiny  of  the  commissioners  of 
the  treasury  officers,  before  any  instructions  are  given  by  the  Secretary 
of  State. 

The  estimates  for  taxation  follow  the  same  course,  and  the  Council 
has  no  control  over  the  funds  arising  from  the  property  or  droits  of  the 
crown. 

The  Governor,  in  transmitting  his  accounts  for  audit,  sends  them 
accompanied  by  certified  copies  of  all  estimates  of  expenditures  to 
wrhich  the  accounts  relate,  and  of  all  ordinances  for  the  imposition  of 
taxes,  with  copies  of  the  despatches  sent  him  by  the  Secretary  of 
State,  conveying  the  sentiments  of  her  Majesty's  government  upon 
them  ;  and  it  is  required  that  full  detailed  statements  of  the  revenue  and 
expenditures  of  the  colony  be  published  in  the  Colonial  Gazette  imme- 
diately after  the  accounts  are  transmitted. 

These  are  some  of  the  regulations,  wrhich  will  tend  to  show  how 
great  is  the  authority  still  retained  by  the  crown,  or  in  reality  by  the 
ministers,  and  how  little  discretionary  power  the  Governor  has.  He 
is  required  personally  to  superintend  or  authorize  things  of  such  small 
concern  that  it  almost  approaches  the  ridiculous ;  for  instance,  a  wheel- 
barrow cannot  be  mended  without  an  order  in  writing  attested  by  his 
signature.  Such  an  order  may  be  necessary,  but  one  would  think  that 
other  persons  might  be  authorized  and  trusted  to  perform  "such  acts. 
The  colony  is  treated  as  though  it  were  a  den  of  rogues,  and  required 
the  constant  supervision  of  the  ministry  at  home.  I  was  told  that  no 
one  could  conceive  the  mass  of  despatches  containing  instructions  that 
a  single  year  produced,  and  these  are  often  found  conflicting  with  those 
that  had  gone  before,  and  thus  require  a  reference  back  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  State.  The  practical  inconvenience  is  apparent,  and  it  is  not 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  225 

surprising  that  it  should  excite  the  ridicule  as  well  as  disgust  of  all 
thinking  men  in  the  colony,  to  see  the  attempt  to  govern  the  affairs  of 
this  rising  state  by  the  royal  prerogative,  exercised  by  one  of  her 
Majesty's  principal  secretaries  of  state,  in  despatches  to  a  governor, 
whose  recommendations  are  usually  adopted,  thus  making  him,  at  least 
in  part,  his  own  instructor.  When  the  time  necessary  to  pass  these 
communications,  which  is  at  least  eight  months,  is  considered,  there 
appears  great  reason  for  reform,  and  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  think- 
ing part  of  the  population  are  very  urgent  for  it. 

The  high  and  confidential  officer  of  the  crown,  which  the  Governor 
really  is,  is  looked  upon  as  the  mere  agent  of  the  ministry  at  home. 

The  community  do  not  feel  themselves  at  all  protected  by  the  Legis- 
lative Council,  although  they  have,  apparently,  a  voice  in  its  proceed- 
ings ;  as  its  members  are  composed,  to  the  extent  of  one  half,  of  persons 
who  do  not  hold  office.  In  practice,  it  is  not  found  that  this  amounts 
to  a  check ;  for  on  all  government  questions  the  members  who  hold 
office  will  be  present,  and  therefore  vote  in  their  full  strength ;  while 
the  members  of  the  people,  appointed  from  the  most  respectable  land- 
holders by  the  crown,  do  not  take  sufficient  interest  in  the  proceedings 
to  give  that  punctual  attendance  that  might  be  required  for  the  interest 
of  those  whom  they  are  intended  to  represent.  But  even  if  all  were 
present,  the  Governor,  with  his  two  votes,  would  always  decide  the 
matter  in  favour  of  the  government;  and  as  before  stated,  no  new  law 
can  be  considered  in  council,  unless  prepared  by  the  Governor,  which 
must  effectually  prevent  any  innovations  being  brought  forward  by 
those  who  represent  the  interest  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  colony.  The 
only  power  they  have  is  a  negative  one:  that  of  entering  their  protest, 
and  having  it  sent  home  for  consideration  by  her  Majesty's  ministers; 
but  in  such  case  there  is  little  likelihood  of  its  meeting  with  favour. 
The  official  members,  on  the  other  hand,  arc  considered  as  bound  to 
support  the  Governor  or  to  lose  their  seats  and  offices,  notwithstanding 
their  oaths  faithfully  to  advise,  to  the  best  of  their  ability  and  judgment, 
the  government  of  the  colony. 

The  principal  check  on  the  Governor  and  his  Council  is  the  public 
press,  whose  conductors  are  strenuous  advocates  for  reform  and  colo- 
nial rights,  and  exhibit  much  ability. 

The  statute  of  New  South  Wales  expired  in  1839,  when  it  was 
renewed  for  a  year,  and  has  subsequently  been  renewed  from  year  to 
year  until  the  present  time  (1840).  So  evident,  however,  were  the 
defects  in  the  administration,  that  a  clause  was  added  to  the  act  of 
renewal,  declaring  that  the  statute  was  deemed  in"  many  respects 

VOL.  ii.  29 


226  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

inapplicable  to  the  circumstances  of  the  colony  and  the  wants  of  the 
inhabitants. 

It  was  made  lawful  for  the  colonial  legislature  to  enact  any  laws  or 
ordinances,  subject  to  the  provisions  of  the  statute,  for  the  belter 
administration  of  justice,  and  to  define  the  constitution  of  the  courts 
of  law,  equity,  and  juries.  This  conclusively  proves  that  great  diffi- 
culty is  experienced  in  governing  these  rising  colonies,  and  in  giving 
that  attention  to  their  wants  that  they  demand;  yet  Great  Britain  still 
manifests  a  strong  desire  to  retain  her  control  over  these  subjects,  and 
does  not  see  the  necessity  of  letting  them  stand  alone,  and  being 
allowed  to  feel  that  they  are  able  to  take  care  of  themselves.* 

Petitions  have  been  sent  home  to  Parliament  and  to  the  Queen 
praying  for  the  formation  of  a  new  constitution,  such  as  they  could 
place  confidence  in,  and  in  which  the  people  of  the  colony  might  be 
represented.  The  model  of  the  constitution  that  they  desire  is  that 
of  the  Canadas,  and  the  expectation  is  that  by  the  great  influx  of  free 
emigrants,  the  day  will  soon  arrive  when  it  will  be  vouchsafed  to  them. 

From  the  reports  of  a  committee  of  the  Legislative  Council  of  this 
colony,  it  is  shown  that  by  offering  bounties,  immigration  may  be  more 
economically  conducted  than  by  the  government  system.  The  report 
states,  that  during  the  year  1838  there  arrived  in  the  colony  seven 
thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty  individuals,  (exclusive  of  convicts,) 
of  whom  one  thousand  six  hundred  and  sixty-two  made  a  claim  for 
bounty.  In  the  latter  six  months  of  the  year  1839,  six  thousand 
arrived.  The  total  arrivals  from  January,  1837,  to  the  end  of  Sep- 
tember, 1839,  were  sixteen  thousand  four  hundred:  by  government 
ships,  eight  thousand  four  hundred  and  eighty-five ;  by  the  aid  of 
bounty,  four  thousand  two  hundred  and  sixty-six ;  unassisted,  three 
thousand  six  hundred  and  forty-nine.  The  amount  of  bounty  to  the 
four  thousand  two  hundred  and  sixty-six  who  were  introduced  by 
private  enterprise,  was  sixty-five  thousand  five  hundred  and  eighty-six 
pounds, — at  the  rate  of  fifteen  pounds  six  shillings  each ;  while  the  cost 
of  introducing  eight  thousand  seven  hundred  and  twenty-one  persons 
by  the  government  system,  was  one  hundred  and  sixty-eight  thousand 
seven  hundred  and  seventy-five  pounds,  showing  an  increase  of  cost 
of  thirty-seven  thousand  six  hundred  and  thirty  pounds  to  the  colony 
by  the  government  system.f  This  subject  engrosses  the  attention  of 

*  The  Legislative  Council  has  agreed  to  take  upon  the  colony  the  charge  of  defraying 
the  expenses  of  the  police  and  jail  out  of  the  revenue.  This  has  also  caused  much  dis- 
satisfaction. •  . 

t  Many  curious  dcvelopcmcnts  have  taken  place  relative  to  the  colony  of  South  Australia, 
which  was  established  upon  the  principles  of  self-support,  having  been  carried  out ;  no  colony 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  337 

all,  now  that  the  transportation,  and  consequently  the  assignment 
system,  is  to  cease.  They  are  desirous  of  securing  workmen  and 
servants,  and  every  exertion  is  to  be  made  to  that  end. 

There  is  now  a  great  influx  of  all  kinds  of  people  into  this  colony, 
from  the  capitalist  to  the  labouring  man.  The  colony  offers  advan- 
tages to  all  of  these,  but  in  a  very  different  proportion.  There  is  no 
country  where  provisions  and  the  actual  necessaries  of  life  are  as 
high  as  here,  and  this  particularly  affects  the  poor  man,  for  although 
he  receives  high  wages  his  expenses  are  proportionately  great.  He 
will  therefore  be  disappointed,  if  he  calculates  upon  making  great 
savings.  On  the  other  hand,  the  capitalist  may  at  once  enter  the 
market  and  invest  his  money  profitably,  and  from  all  that  I  could 
learn,  securely.  Money,  however,  according  to  several  intelligent 
and  well-informed  persons,  commanded  more  than  its  value;  or,  in 
other  words,  the  rate  of  interest  is  too  high  to  be  sustained.  This 
was  in  part  attributed  to  the  improvements  going  on,  partly  for  specu- 
lating purposes,  but  generally  as  permanent  investments,  the  result  of 
profits  in  business.  Money  is  in  fact  the  best  merchandise  to  cany  to 
New  South  Wales. 

The  poor  labouring  man,  if  he  be  sober  and  industrious,  will  soon 
acquire  the  means  of  support  for  himself  and  family,  but  he  must 
carefully  avoid  the  contamination  to  which  he  will  be  subject,  and 
avoid  improper  associates.  There  is  no  place  where  he  will  be  so 
much  led  into  temptation  as  here.  For  the  middle  class — those  who 
have  a  small  income  and  do  not  work — there  is  every  thing  to  strive 
against.  Labour  is  high,  and  so  are  the  necessaries  of  life.  New 
South  Wales  is  not  a  place  to  economize  in.  A  moderate  fortune, 
unless  employed  in  some  lucrative  and  growing  business,  will  finally 
involve  its  owner  in  difficulties ;  and  if  he  engage  in  farming,  a  few- 
bad  seasons  (very  likely  to  happen)  will  completely  ruin  him.  From 
all  the  information  I  could  obtain,  emigration  to  New  South  Wales  is 
attended  with  risk,  unless  a  person  be  very  prudent  and  can  keep 
himself  within  his  means.  The  moment  he  begins  to  borrow  money, 
he  is  sure  to  get  behindhand;  for  few  can  stand  the  payment  of  an 
interest  of  fifteen  per  cent.  The  great  difficulty  with  all  emigrants 
seems  to  be,  that  as  land  is  very  cheap  in  comparison  to  what  they 
have  been  accustomed  to,  they  immediately  desire  to  possess  large 
tracts.  This  it  is  necessary  to  look  for,  and  much  time  and  money 

under  the  Britisli  dominions  has  cost  the  mother  country  more,  nor  has  any  one  been  con- 
ducted  so  badly,  having  cost  the  government  about  one  million  pounds  for  bounty.  Some 
extraordinary  circumstances  were  related  to  me  of  the  manner  in  which  the  government 
was  defrauded,  in  spite  of  their  stipulations  directly  to  the  contrary. 


228  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

is  spent  in  wandering  about  the  country  in  search  of  what  is  not 
very  easy  of  attainment.  Another  difficulty  of  the  newly-arrived 
settler  consists  in  getting  information  concerning  the  unoccupied  terri- 
tory. No  land-oilice  or  land-agent  is  found  here  for  the  emigrant  to 
apply  to,  and  he  not  unfrequently  falls  into  the  hands  of  those  who 
defraud  him,  or  is  led  astray  by  the  reports  of  the  ignorant  or  preju- 
diced, and  at  last  is  induced  to  purchase  much  more  than  he  requires, 
and  in  consequence  fails  of  success.  The  government  lands  are  dis- 
posed of  in  a  different  way  from  what  ours  are.  A  certain  parish 
having  been  surveyed  and  mapped,  is  advertised  as  being  open  for 
sale;  persons  select  and  make  application,  and  if  a  less  quantity  than 
six  hundred  and  forty  acres  is  desired,  he  is  obliged  to  state  the  reasons 
of  his  wish  to  obtain  it,  and  the  use  to  which  he  purposes  to  put  it:  the 
land  is  then  advertised  to  be  sold  on  a  certain  day  (of  the  month),  at 
public  auction.  If  the  land  offered  for  sale  happen  to  be  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  some  wealthy  proprietor,  he  cannot  fail  to  become  informed 
of  it ;  the  section  is  bid  up,  and  the  person  may  be  disappointed  in  ob- 
taining the  allotment  selected  and  advertised  by  his  own  desire. 

The  minimum  price  must  be  paid,  at  any  rate:  this  originally  was 
five  shillings  an  acre;  it  is  now  twelve.  Ten  per  cent,  must  be  paid 
down,  and  the  remainder  in  one  month,  or  the  deposit  is  forfeited. 
On  payment  of  the  money  the  title-deed  is  given,  subject  to  the 
nominal  quit-rent  of  a  peppercorn.  Before  delivery  of  the  deeds,  the 
law  provides  that  forty  shillings  shall  be  paid  to  the  colonial  secretary, 
and  five  shillings  to  the  register.  The  crown  reserves  to  itself  the 
right  of  making  roads  and  bridges,  as  well  as  of  taking  timber,  stone, 
and  other  materials  for  making  and  keeping  them  in  repair;  as  well 
as  all  mines  of  coal  and  precious  metals.  No  land  within  one  hun- 
dred feet  of  high-water  mark  on  the  sea-coast,  harbours,  or  bays,  is  to 
be  considered  open  to  purchase,  unless  for  purposes  of  commerce  and 
navigation. 

As  respects  the  discontents  arising  from  what  the  colonists  call  the 
misapplication  of  the  land-fund,  her  Majesty's  ministers  have  deter- 
mined that  she  has  a  right  to  alienate  the  waste  lands,  and  divert  the 
appropriation  of  the  proceeds,  and  that  the  doubts  raised  would,  if 
sustained,  be  laid  aside  by  a  declaratory  act  of  Parliament. 

All  free  persons  are  admitted  as  purchasers  of  land,  without  any 
limitation  whatever  as  to  quantity. 

In  order  to  show  that  the  statement  of  the  extent  of  crime  in  the 
colony,  however  extraordinary  it  may  appear,  is  not  exaggerated,  I 
will  give  extracts  from  the  charge  of  Judge  Burton  to  the  jury,  at  the 
close  of  the  session  of  the  Supreme  Court,  in  November,  1835,  and 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  229 

afterwards  a  report  by  him  to  the  colonial  secretary,  in  1836.  Both  of 
these  may  be  classed  as  official  documents  of  the  highest  authority.* 

Judge  Burton  remarked,  that  "  It  was  now  his  duty  to  discharge 
them  (the  jury)  from  any  further  attendance  this  session,  but  before  he 
did  so,  he  must  make  a  few  observations,  which  they  ought  to  carry  to 
their  homes,  and  there  give  them  a  calm  and  serious  consideration ;  his 
own  mind  was  sufficiently  impressed  with  their  importance. 

"  It  had  been  his  lot  to  preside  alternately  with  his  brother  judges  in 
that  court,  he  might  say,  for  three  years.  It  was  a  period  at  which 
he  might  himself  well  pause  and  inquire  what  he  had  been  doing, 
what  had  been  the  effect  of  his  labours,  and  especially,  considering 
the  numbers  of  capital  convictions  which  had  taken  place  before  him, 
and  the  number  of  sentences  passed,  it  was  fitting  that  he  should  ask 
himself  the  question,  what  has  been  the  effect  of  those  sentences  in  the 
wray  of  example  1 

"  He  felt  they  were  equally  interested  in  the  same  questions ;  he 
would  therefore  lay  before  them  the  views  and  conclusions  at  which 
his  own  mind  had  arrived.  He  had  requested  a  return  to  be  made  out 
by  the  chief  clerk  of  the  court  of  all  the  capital  convictions  that  had 
taken  place  during  the  last  three  years,  and  he  thought  when  he  stated 
the  number  of  them,  they  would  feel  he  was  fully  justified  in  the  course 
of  observations  he  was  about  to  make. 

"  In  1833,  there  had  been  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  capital  con- 
victions, on  which  sixty-five  sentences  of  death  had  been  passed ;  forty- 
five  of  these  capital  convictions,  and  fifteen  of  these  sentences  of  death, 
had  taken  place  upon  his  judicial  responsibility. 

"  In  1834,  thei'e  were  one  hundred  and  forty-eight  capital  convic- 
tions, on  eighty-three  of  which  sentence  of  death  had  been  passed ; 
forty-eight  of  which  convictions,  and  thirty-six  of  wrhich  sentences, 
had  been  before  himself. 

"  In  1835,  one  hundred  and  sixteen  capital  convictions,  and  seventy- 
one  sentences  of  death ;  fifty-six  of  which  had  taken  place  before  him, 
and  twenty-eight  of  which  sentences  he  had  passed.  In  addition  to 
which,  there  are  thirty-three  prisoners  who  have  been  capitally  con- 
victed, waiting  sentence,  whether  death  might  be  recorded,  or  passed 
upon  them.  The  number  of  capital  convictions  was  a  feature  sufficiently 
striking  in  the  administration  of  justice  in  the  colony ;  for  it  was  to  be 
remarked,  that  capital  punishment  had  been  taken  away  from  several 
offences,  ever  since  the  1st  of  August,  1833, — such  as  forgery,  cattle- 
stealing,  stealing  in  a  dwelling-house  under  the  value  of  five  pounds 

*  Sec  Appendix  X.  for  tabular  statements  of  crime  in  New  South  Wales. 


230  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

(these  were  fruitful  sources  of  capital  conviction  in  former  times) ;  so 
that  those  which  had  taken  place  since  that  time,  were  all  of  crimes 
of  violence  :  murder,  rape,  robbery,  burglary,  maliciously  stabbing, 
shooting,  and  wounding,  and  offences  of  similar  character. 

"  The  calendar  for  the  present  sessions  presents  the  following  facts, 
and  had  been  furnished  him  by  the  crown  solicitor : 

" '  There  had  been  convicted  of  murder,  two  ;  stabbing  with  intent, 
&c.,  shooting  at,  with  intent  to  kill,  cutting  and  maiming,  assault,  with 
intent  to  do  bodily  harm,  six;  manslaughter,  two;  arson,  one;  piracy 
and  burglary,  eight ;  house-breaking,  ten ;  highway  robbery,  seven ; 
receiving,  one;  forgery,  two;  larceny  on  the  high  seas,  one;  larceny, 
four  ;  cattle-stealing,  one  ;  piracy  only,  one ;  robbery,  eight ; — total, 
fifty-four. 

"  The  prisoners  in  jail  on  the  18th  of  November,  1835,  untried,  were 
seventy-four,  from  various  causes  of  delay ;  they  were,  however,  neither 
unknown  nor  unheeded.  With  respect  to  the  causes  of  this  state  of 
crime,  he  had  formed  his  own  conclusions,  and  begged  them  to  weigh 
and  examine  them,  and  judge  for  themselves ;  he  thought  the  number 
of  capital  convictions  alone,  enough  to  point  his  own  and  their  attention 
to  it,  as  an  indication  of  the  state  of  the  country  as  to  crime. 

"  He  did  not  think  it  necessary  to  mention  the  number  of  convictions 
before  the  Supreme  Court,  during  the  same  period,  for  offences  not 
capital.  He  would,  however,  briefly  refer  to  them,  and  to  all  offences 
which  were  tried  before  the  several  Courts  of  Quarter  Sessions 
throughout  the  colony,  in  the  exercise  of  their  summary  jurisdiction, 
and  by  juries;  the  mass  of  offences  which  were  summarily  disposed  of 
by  the  magistrates;  and,  added  to  all  those,  the  numerous  undiscovered 
crimes,  which  every  man  who  had  heard  him,  and  to  whom  the  report 
of  his  words  should  come,  would  at  once  admit  to  have  occurred  within 
his  own  circle  of  knowledge.  There  the  picture  presented  to  their 
minds  would  be  one  of  the  most  painful  reflection.  It  would  appear  to 
one  that  could  look  down  upon  the  community,  that  the  main  business 
of  us  all  was  the  commission  of  crime,  or  the  punishment  of  it;  as  if 
the  whole  colony  was  in  motion  towards  the  several  courts  of  justice; 
and  the  most  painful  reflection  of  all  must  be  that  so  many  capital 
sentences,  and  the  execution  of  them,  had  not  had  the  effect  of  prevent- 
ing crime,  by  way  of  example. 

"  In  his  opinion,  one  grand  cause  of  such  a  state  of  things  was  the 
overwhelming  defect  in  the  religious  principles  of  the  community;  a 
principle,  which  he  considered  as  the  polar  star,  to  guide  a  man  in  all 
his  conduct,  and  without  which  none  other  would  prevent  him  from 
crime. 


OF   NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  231 

"But  that  he  might  not  be  said  to  make  so  grave  a  charge  upon 
light  foundation,  he  would  instance  the  crimes  of  violence,  the  murders, 
manslaughters,  in  drunken  revels,  the  perjuries,  the  false  witnessing, 
from  motives  of  reward  or  revenge,  which  in  the  proceedings  before 
him  had  been  brought  to  light.  There  were  some  indeed  of  so  atro- 
cious a  character  which  had  occurred  before  him,  that  he  would 
briefly  instance  some  of  them,  which  the  time  that  had  elapsed  might 
have  caused  to  pass  away  from  their  memory. 

"  The  case  of  Mullany  and  his  wife,  who  were  convicted  of  stealing 
from  the  person  of  Patrick  Sherry,  by  administering  to  him  some 
deleterious  drug,  which  for  a  time  deprived  him  of  sense,  and  perhaps 
only  the  quantity  prevented  his  losing  his  life.  The  case  of  Armstrong, 
the  overseer,  who  was  acquitted  upon  a  false  charge,  brought  against 
him  by  a  convict  under  his  superintendence,  of  shooting  him  with 
intent  to  murder. 

"  The  case  of  Cowan  and  his  wife,  who  were  acquitted  of  the 
murder  of  a  man  named  Kerr,  embodies  in  itself  a  picture  of  those 
evils  with  which  the  colony  is  visited.  A  person  of  the  name  of 
Campbell,  and  the  deceased  Kerr,  lived  near  Liverpool,  and  kept  an 
unlicensed  still,  and  a  house  to  which  the  gangs  of  prisoners  in  this 
neighbourhood  resorted  for  drink,  and  they  were  cattle-stealers.  On 
a  Sunday  evening  this  house  was  visited  by  a  constable  from  Liver- 
pool, who  arrived  about  eight  o'clock,  and  found  the  parties,  as  he 
expressed  it,  'beastly  drunk,'  and  the  two  prisoners  of  the  crown  in 
the  same  state ;  this  was  the  last  time  Kerr  was  seen  alive  by  any 
respectable  person. 

"  Information  was  given  the  next  day,  by  two  of  Cowan's  servants, 
to  the  magistrates  of  Liverpool,  against  him,  for  cattle-stealing,  and  it 
was  proved  that  their  having  done  so  was  known  to  Peter  Montgo- 
mery, a  convict,  employed  as  overseer  at  the  Liverpool  Hospital,  in 
the  afternoon  of  the  same  day,  and  that  he  had  visited  Cowan  after- 
wards, and  understood  from  expressions  made  by  Cowan,  during  his 
intoxication,  that  he  expected  Kerr  would  give  evidence  against  him. 
Kerr  was  murdered  by  some  one  on  that  night,  and  his  body  was 
afterwards  found  at  fifty  rods'  distance,  but  the  blood  was  traced  to 
within  seventeen  yards  of  Cowan's  door. 

"  Campbell  had  given  a  statement  before  the  magistrates,  which,  if 
he  had  adhered  to  on  the  trial,  would  have  brought  home  the  guilt  of 
that  murder  to  both  the  prisoners ;  but  he  recanted  the  whole  of  his 
previous  statement,  and  they  were  acquitted. 

"  It  appeared  in  evidence,  that  Campbell  had  been  forwarded  from 
Liverpool  to  Sydney,  handcuffed  with  Cowan,  and  was  confined  in 


232  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

the  same  jail-yard  with  him.  It  further  appeared,  (and  it  deserves 
mention  as  an  instance  of  retributive  justice,  as  well  as  showing  the 
character  of  the  case,)  that  another  dead  man  was  found  in  the  same 
place  three  months  before,  and  upon  that  occasion  a  coroner's  jury  had 
acquitted  the  prisoner  Cowan,  upon  the  evidence  of  the  man  Kerr; 
and  this  deposition  of  Kerr's  after  his  death,  was  given  in  the  court, 
on  evidence  in  favour  of  the  same  prisoner,  when  Cowan  was  subse- 
quently tried,  and  was  the  main  ground  of  his  acquittal. 

"  In  another  case,  an  old  man  was  acquitted  of  maliciously  shooting 
at  a  servant  in  his  employment,  and  the  means  taken  to  procure  that 
acquittal,  was  a  charge  of  felony  set  up  against  the  principal  witness. 

"These,  and  many  other  instances  still  more  disgusting,  had  brought 
him  to  the  conclusion,  that  there  wras  an  overwhelming  defect  of  reli- 
gious principle  in  this  colony.  There  was  a  great  deficiency  of  reli- 
gious instruction  and  instructors. 

"  He  had  visited  the  penal  settlement,  where  he  saw  them  herding 
together  without  any  chance  of  improvement.  A  man  who  had  been 
brought  before  him  for  sentence,  observed,  in  a  manner  which  drew 
tears  from  his  eyes,  and  wrung  his  heart,  '  That  let  a  man  be  what  he 
will,  when  he  comes  here,  he  is  soon  as  bad  as  the  rest ;  a  man's  heart 
is  taken  from  him,  and  there  is  given  to  him  the  heart  of  a  beast.' 

"  He  felt  bound  to  say,  that  masters  of  convicts  were  not  sufficiently 
attentive  to  the  morals  of  their  men.  It  had  been  proved  before  him, 
that  highly  respectable  persons  near  a  church  in  the  same  town,  not 
only  neglected  to  oblige  them  to  attend  the  worship,  but  actually 
suffered  them  to  spend  the  Lord's  day  amidst  scenes  of  drunkenness 
and  debauchery.  It  had  been  further  proved,  that  the  Lord's  day,  by 
some  masters,  was  made  a  day  of  labour,  some  other  day  being 
allowed  to  them  as  an  equivalent.  He  was  sorry  to  add,  that  many 
of  the  worst  crimes  which  had  been  brought  under  his  notice,  were 
committed  on  the  Lord's  day,  and  he  was  led  to  apprehend  that  there 
was  a  very  general  disregard  and  desecration  of  it. 

"  He  had  been  induced,  by  what  had  been  proved  before  him  in 
that  court,  gravely  to  consider  the  question  of  convicts  working  out 
of  irons,  and  felt  convinced  that  it  was  one  of  the  most  fruitful  sources 
of  crime  to  be  found  in  the  colony.  He  had  before  him  a  return,  from 
which  it  appeared  that  the  number  of  convicts  at  this  time  employed 
upon  the  roads,  is  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  forty ;  of  whom  one 
thousand  one  hundred  and  four  are  out  of  irons.  And  when  they  (the 
jury)  considered  who  these  men  were,  and  what  they  had  been;  that 
they  left  their  huts  in  any  number,  armed  or  unarmed,  as  they  pleased; 
from  the  evidence  he  possessed  respecting  the  conduct  of  these  road- 


OF   NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  233 

parties  of  the  colony,  it  would  appear  that  those  establishments  were 
like  bee-hives,  the  inhabitants  busily  pouring  in  and  out ;  but  with  this 
difference :  the  one  works  by  day,  the  other  by  night ;  the  one  goes 
forth  to  industry,  the  other  to  plunder. 

"  To  the  careless  or  worse  than  careless  conduct  of  the  overseers, 
he  did  attribute  a  vast  proportion  of  the  burglaries  and  robberies  that 
were  committed  in  the  country  districts.  It  had  been  proved  in  a 
recent  case  that  a  party  of  these  men  had  committed  a  robbery,  under 
such  circumstances  of  aggravation,  that  sentence  of  death  had  been 
passed  upon  four  of  them. 

"The  settlers  themselves  were  to  blame  for  many  of  the  crimes 
committed  by  convicts  belonging  to  road-parties.  It  appears  they 
have  frequently  employed  these  men,  in  their  leisure  hours,  or  on  a 
Sunday,  paying  them  for  their  labours  in  money,  which  was  spent  in 
drink,  and  so  prepared  them  for  crime ;  and  it  also  appeared  that  after 
using  their  services  in  harvest,  they  remunerated  them  for  their  ser- 
vices, by  granting  passes  for  several  days  more  than  was  necessary 
for  them  to  return  to  their  gangs,  during  which  time  the  whole 
country  they  passed  through  is  laid  under  contribution  by  their  depre- 
dations. 

"  Another  source  of  crime  was  the  occupation  of  the  waste  lands  of 
the  colony  by  unauthorized  and  improper  persons,  both  bond  and  free, 
who,  commencing  with  nothing,  or  a  very  small  capital,  soon  after 
acquire  a  degree  of  wealth,  which  must  lead  every  reasonable  man  to 
the  conclusion  that  they  do  not  get  it  honestly. 

"  The  congregation  of  large  numbers  of  convict  servants  in  the  town 
of  Sydney,  to  which  were  to  be  attributed  the  vast  proportion  of  the 
burglaries  and  robberies  committed  there,  the  master  allowing  the 
convict  servants  to  wander  about  when  and  where  they  please  after 
his  work  is  done. 

"  The  allowing  improper  persons  to  have  licensed  public  houses.  It 
had  been  proved  that  a  great  many  robberies  had  been  committed  at 
such  places,  many  of  the  proprietors  of  these  low  houses  being  not 
far  removed  from  the  class  of  life  in  which  the  prisoners  were  them- 
selves placed. 

"  Another  cause,  which  comes  home  to  all,  is  the  almost  total  want 
of  the  superintendence  of  masters  over  their  assigned  servants.  It 
had  been  proved  to  him  that  many  of  the  robberies  which  had  been 
committed  are  attributed  to  this  alone;  also,  that  convicts,  six  or 
seven  in  number,  armed  with  muskets,  and  masked,  had  committed 
various  robberies  on  their  adjoining  neighbours.  One  of  them  at- 
tempted a  robbery  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  on  a  Sunday,  on  the  high- 

VOL.  ii.  30 


234  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

road  from  Sydney  to  Paramatta,  armed  with  a  musket,  another  person 
being  in  his  company ;  and  very  many  robberies  were  committed 
through  convict  servants  being  left  too  much  at  liberty  to  roam  where 
they  pleased,  during  the  hours  of  night." 

In  Judge  Burton's  report  to  the  colonial  secretary,  as  to  whether 
juries  in  the  colony  have  answered  the  ends  of  justice,  he  gives  a  full 
account  of  the  jury  system,  its  formation,  &c.,  some  passages  of  which 
I  shall  also  quote,  as  it  will  tend  to  show  the  manner  in  which  the  law 
is  administered  in  the  colony,  and  the  difficulties  encountered  in  the 
proper  punishment  of  crime. 

"  In  civil  cases,  such  as  form  the  ordinary  business  of  the  court,  the 
matters  in  dispute  are  so  simple  as  to  afford  but  little  field  for  any 
undue  bias  on  either  side. 

"  It  is  only  in  cases  occurring  between  the  government  and  an  indi- 
vidual, or  involving  some  point  of  political  or  party  feeling,  that  any 
trial  can  be  had  of  the  principles  of  the  jurymen,  and  happily  there 
have  been  no  instances  of  any  such  during  the  time  (the  last  three 
years)  that  jury  trial  has  been  established. 

"  In  criminal  cases,  there  is  a  greater  and  more  constant  ground  for 
apprehension  of  improper  influences,  and  undue  bias  upon  the  minds 
of  the  jurymen.  The  prisoners  for  trial  before  the  court,  are  chiefly 
of  a  class  transported  hither  for  crimes  committed  out  of  the  colony; 
and  persons  of  the  same  condition,  and  others  very  low  in  respecta- 
bility and  character,  and  frequently  allied  to  them,  are  qualified,  ac- 
cording to  colonial  law,  to  serve  as  jurymen. 

"  The  qualifications  are,  a  clear  income,  arising  out  of  lands,  houses, 
or  other  real  estate,  of  at  least  thirty  pounds  per  annum,  or  a  clear 
personal  estate  of  three  hundred  pounds. 

"The  disqualifications  as  they  now  stand  are:  'Every  man  not  a 
natural-born  subject  of  the  king,  and  every  man  who  hath  been  or 
shall  be  attainted  of  any  treason  or  felony,  or  convicted  of  any  crime, 
(unless  he  shall  have  received  for  such  crime  a  free  pardon,  or  shall 
be  within  the  benefit  and  protection  of  some  act  of  Parliament,  having 
force  and  effect  of  a  pardon  under  the  great  seal,)  or,  secondly,  if  any 
person  who,  either  while  serving  under  any  sentence  passed  upon  him 
in  any  part  of  the  British  dominions,  or  after  the  expiration  of  remis- 
sion of  such  sentence,  shall  have  been  convicted  of  any  treason,  felony, 
or  other  infamous  offence.'  ' 

Respecting  the  qualifications  arising  from  property,  Judge  Burton 
says,  "  The  possession  of  such  an  amount  as  is  specified  in  the  act 
affords  no  criterion  in  the  colony,  where  property  is  notoriously  accu- 
mulated by  every  variety  of  dishonest  means.  It  may  be  a  test  of 


OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  335 

respectability  and  trustworthiness  in  a  community  differently  consti- 
tuted, but  wholly  fails  in  a  community  like  this,  lacking  honesty,  but 
abounding  in  property.  In  consequence  of  this  qualification  being 
requisite,  many  honest  and  respectable  persons  in  the  community,  very 
proper  to  serve  on  juries,  are  excluded. 

"  Within  this  range  are  included  a  class  of  persons  in  the  colony 
who  have  been  transported  hither  for  offences  committed  out  of  the 
colony.  They  are  qualified  to  act  as  jurymen  under  the  Local  Act, 
without  any  proof  being  required  that  they  had  regained  that  good 
repute  which  they  once  lost,  and  the  mere  circumstance  of  their  having 
served  the  period  of  their  several  sentences,  does  not  establish  that  fact. 

"  There  are  others  who,  possessing  the  qualifications  in  property, 
have  arrived  in  the  colony  as  free  emigrants,  the  near  relatives  of 
transported  persons,  under  such  circumstances  as  justly  to  lead  to  the 
suspicion  of  an  undue  bias  existing  in  any  case  affecting  them,  and  who 
have  connexions  in  England,  not  unlikely  to  follow  them  to  the  colo- 
nies, possessing  ready  means  of  importing  into  this  country  property 
dishonestly  acquired,  and  who  speedily  accumulate  wealth  by  that, 
and  other  dishonest  means.  There  is  no  provision  for  guarding  the 
administration  of  justice  against  the  predominance  of  such  persons 
upon  the  jury-list.  The  effect  of  the  colonial  law  in  practice  has  been, 
that  juries  actually  empannelled  under  it  have  been  frequently  formed 
of  very  improper  persons." 

From  the  data  submitted  with  Judge  Burton's  report,  he  says,  "  It 
appears  that  a  party  accused,  inclined  to  exercise  his  right  of  peremp- 
tory challenge,  might  insure  a  large  predominance  of  convicted  persons 
on  the  jury,  inasmuch  as  the  law  allows  in  cases  of  felony  the 
peremptory  challenge  of  twenty  in  number,  and  if  a  prisoner  has  pro- 
fessional assistance  in  his  defence,  this  right  of  challenge  is  fully 
exercised.  In  one  instance  I  knew  gentlemen  of  high  character  and 
respectability  thus  peremptorily  rejected  on  the  part  of  the  prisoner.  I 
took  the  liberty  of  asking  some  of  them  afterwards  if  the  prisoner  was 
known  to  them,  and  was  answered  that  he  was  not.  The  conclusion 
in  my  own  mind  was,  that  they  were  challenged  on  account  of  their 
respectability.  In  another  case  before  me,  every  person  of  apparent 
respectability  who  was  called,  was  peremptorily  challenged  on  the  part 
of  the  prisoner,  which  the  crown  officer  observing,  challenged  all  the 
others,  and  the  case  remained  over  in  default  of  jurors.  In  both  cases 
the  accused  had  professional  assistance. 

"  Again,  the  jurors  are  placed  alphabetically  on  the  list,  and  are 
summoned  in  that  order ;  the  relatives  of  convicted  persons,  qualified, 
and  bearing  the  same  name,  are  sure  to  be  on  the  same  panel  with 


236  HISTORY,    GOVERNMENT,    ETC., 

them.  A  party  may  be  well  informed  beforehand,  who  will  be 
summoned  on  his  jury.  An  opportunity  thus  offers  for  the  exertion  of 
improper  influence. 

"  A  large  proportion  of  those  who  have  appeared  and  served  are 
publicans,  as  many  in  some  cases  as  eight  out  of  twenty-nine,  three 
having  been  convicted  persons ;  in  other  cases,  ten  out  of  thirty-one, 
five  having  been  also  convicted  persons ;  and  again,  eleven  out  of 
thirty-five,  four  of  them  convicted  persons. 

"  Respecting  the  large  proportion  of  this  class  of  persons  on  the  jury 
panels,  and  the  state  of  crime,  and  the  causes  of  it,  I  addressed  a  letter 
to  his  Excellency  the  Governor,  and  I  now  repeat,  that  the  evils  arising 
from  the  very  great  number  of  licensed  houses  for  the  sale  of  ardent 
spirits,  are  not  restricted  to  the  stimulus  which  they  give  to  the  com- 
mission of  crime,  and  concealment  of  it  which  they  afford,  but  I  have 
found  a  very  great  proportion  out  of  the  panel  of  jurymen  before  the 
Supreme  Court  (who  actually  attend),  to  be  holders  of  licensed  public 
houses,  frequently  very  low  in  respectability,  to  whose  houses,  prose- 
cutors, and  parties  accused,  on  bail,  and  their  witnesses,  bond  and 
free,  resort  for  the  purpose  of  drinking,  during  the  period  of  time  they 
are  in  attendance  on  court ;  and  a  reasonable  fear  is  thus  excited  for 
the  purity  of  the  administration  of  justice,  which  I  have  had  occasion 
as  a  judge  to  see  realized. 

"Upon  reference  to  the  jury-list  of  1835,  I  have  found  that  the 
number  to  be  summoned  from  criminal  issues  before  the  Supreme 
Court  is  nine  hundred  and  fifty-three,  of  whom  two  hundred  and  three 
are  publicans  and  innkeepers.  The  proportion  of  those  who  actually 
serve,  far  exceeds  that  number;  and  in  June,  1835,  no  less  a  number 
than  two  hundred  and  twenty-four  licenses  were  granted  for  public 
houses  in  the  town  of  Sydney  alone.  Few  of  them  do  not  possess  the 
necessary  qualifications,  and  many  are  highly  respectable  persons ;  but 
the  proportion  which  they  bear  to  the  whole  is  small." 

The  keepers  of  the  low  public  houses  in  Sydney,  are  chiefly  per- 
sons who  have  been  transported  to  this  colony,  or  are  married  to  con- 
victs, and  many  of  them  are  notorious  drunkards,  obscure  persons, 
fighters,  gamblers,  receivers  of  stolen  goods,  harbourers  of  thieves,  and 
the  most  depraved  of  both  sexes ;  they  exist  upon  the  vices  of  the  lower 
orders,  and  inasmuch  as  there  are  no  licensed  pawnbrokers  in  Sydney, 
they  act  as  such,  but  not  as  occurs  in  other  countries,  upon  occasion 
of  some  temporary  pressure  on  the  poor,  for  some  necessary  of  life,  but 
for  intoxicating  liquor. 

There  is  a  great  unwillingness  on  the  part  of  respectable  persons  to 
appear  and  serve  on  juries,  arising  from  a  natural  repugnance  to  asso- 


OF   NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  237 

elation  and  confinement  in  the  jury-room  with  disreputable  persons. 
Judge  Burton  goes  on  to  give  many  instances  of  the  behaviour  of  the 
jury  in  their  room,  and  their  determination  to  acquit ;  stating,  that  he 
had  been  informed  by  a  respectable  inhabitant  of  Sydney,  on  whose 
veracity  he  could  fully  rely,  that  upon  one  occasion,  when  a  prisoner 
was  on  trial  for  cattle-stealing,  he  was  defended  by  one  of  the  practi- 
tioners of  the  court,  when,  during  the  progress  of  the  trial,  a  juryman 
leaned  over  him  towards  the  practitioner,  calling  him  by  name,  and 
said,  "  It's  all  right,  we'll  acquit  him."  When  the  prisoner  was  called 
on  for  his  defence,  the  practitioner  advised  him  to  say  nothing,  and 
call  no  witnesses,  which  course  was  adopted  ;  and  he  was  acquitted. 

It  is  proper  to  state  that  the  other  judges  think  that  the  jury  trials 
have  met  with  the  success  reasonably  to  be  expected,  and  that  matters 
will  grow  daily  better  as  the  free  emigrants  arrive  and  are  qualified. 
From  what  I  understood  from  gentlemen  of  the  legal  profession,  there 
has  some  improvement  taken  place  since  the  year  1836. 

The  courts  still  adhere  to  the  use  of  wigs  and  gowns,  and  the 
opinion  seems  to  be  that  such  appendages  cannot  be  dispensed  with 
without  injuring  their  respectability  and  solemnity  in  the  eyes  of  the 
people. 

Under  the  additional  clause,  amendments  have  been  made  by  the 
Legislative  Council  in  the  laws  regulating  trials,  and  they  have  also 
abolished  military  juries. 

Education  in  the  colony  of  late  years  has  claimed  some  portion  of 
the  attention  of  the  government,  which  has  made  allowances  to  the 
different  sects  of  Christians  for  the  maintenance  of  schools.  I  was 
obligingly  provided  with  the  school  return  for  the  year  1838,  by 
William  Lithgow,  Esquire.  This  will  be  found  in  Appendix  XII. 

It  appears  that  the  whole  number  educated  is  only  six  thousand  and 
thirty-seven,  and  that  the  expense  incurred  by  government  is  twelve 
thousand  four  hundred  and  twenty-six  pounds,  or  upwards  of  two 
pounds  per  head.  The  number  of  children  attending  schools  is  to  the 
aggregate  of  population  as  about  one  to  twenty,  which  is  the  same  as 
in  1836.  In  the  return  above  mentioned,  it  will  be  found  that  there 
are  seventy-six  schools,  of  different  denominations ;  three  colleges,  and 
sixty-seven  private  schools :  showing  an  increase  more  than  fourfold 
during  the  last  five  years.  Several  attempts  have  been  made  to 
establish  the  Irish  national  school  system,  or  a  general  system  of 
education,  but  thus  far,  without  success.  The  chief  opposition  to  this 
has  been  from  the  Church  of  England. 

Among  the  colleges,  two  are  under  the  guidance  of  the  Church  of 
England,  viz. :  King's  College  or  School,  at  Paramatta,  and  Sydney 


238         HISTORY,    ETC.,    OF    NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

College.  The  third,  called  the  Australian  College,  was  established 
by  the  Reverend  Dr.  Lang.  Of  this  institution  that  gentleman  is  the 
principal.  The  college  edifices  consist  of  four  large  buildings,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  professors  and  their  families,  with  recitation- 
rooms  in  each,  besides  apartments  for  the  students.  The  expenses, 
including  board,  are  about  forty  pounds  per  annum.  The  charge  at 
Sydney  College  is  about  ten  pounds  more.  Of  the  latter  college,  Sir 
John  Jamison  is  the  president.  It  is  in  a  great  measure  under  the 
control  of  the  Bishop  and  Episcopal  laity  of  Sydney.  An  examination 
was  witnessed  at  the  latter  institution,  and  was  thought  very  creditable 
to  the  students.  Medals  were  awarded  and  appropriate  remarks 
made  by  the  Bishop. 

The  system  of  giving  to  the  clergy  an  allowance  from  the  govern- 
ment, for  their  support,  is  the  fertile  cause  of  dissension  in  this 
community.  Many  hard  thoughts,  and  harsh  expressions,  are  occa- 
sionally felt  and  uttered,  by  one  sect  against  the  others,  in  the  contest 
for  the  stipend  distributed  among  the  several  denominations.  An  act 
was  passed  in  1836,  which  appears  as  liberal  as  could  be  expected. 
The  amount  appropriated  annually  is  about  twenty  thousand  pounds, 
of  which  about  three-fourths  go  to  the  Episcopal  Church,  and  the 
remainder  is  divided  among  other  sects,  Roman  Catholics  included. 
Regrets  were  occasionally  heard,  (perhaps  to  flatter  us,)  that  the 
voluntary  system  of  supporting  the  clergy  had  not  been  introduced.  It 
will  be  well  to  remark,  before  quitting  the  subject,  that,  in  all  other 
matters  appertaining  to  the  general  good  and  benefit  of  the  community, 
there  appeared  a  co-operation  highly  commendable. 

The  Australian  colony  was  erected  into  an  Episcopal  See  in  1836, 
and  Archdeacon  Broughton  was  consecrated  as  the  first  Bishop.  To 
his  lordship  we  are  indebted  for  many  kind  attentions,  and  the  lively 
interest  he  took  in  our  proceedings. 

The  exertions  that  the  colonial  government  and  private  individuals 
appear  to  be  making  to  afford  religious  instruction,  cannot  but  bring 
about,  in  a  few  years,  a  very  desirable  and  necessary  reform  among 
the  lower  classes  of  this  colony,  of  which  the  facts  previously  exhibited 
in  the  account  of  the  country  fully  establish  the  necessity. 


\\TIVK   \VK.\ro\S   AM)   S1I1KI.I). 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


CONTENTS. 

JAUNT  TO  PARAMATTA  — DESCRIPTION  OF  THAT  PLACE  — OBSERVATORY  — GOVERN- 
MENT-HOUSE, AND  FARM— VISIT  OF  NATURALISTS  TO  ILLAWARRA— WOOLONGONG— 
VEGETATION  OF  ILLAWARRA— LAKE  ILLAWARRA— JAUNT  OF  MESSRS.  HALE  AND 
AGATE  TO  HUNTER'S  RIVER  —  TOWN  OF  NEWCASTLE  —  COAL  MINES  —  CONVICT 
MARRIAGES— CONVICT  STOCKADE— NATIVES— JOURNEY  TO  LAKE  MACQUARIE  —  MR. 
THRELKELD— MACQUARIE  LAKE— CONVICT  SERVANTS— M'GILL,  THE  NATIVE— SHEEP- 
SHEARING— VISIT  TO  PEUEN  BEUEN— BANKS  OF  HUNTER  RIVER— MR.  KALE'S  JOUR- 
NEY TO  WELLINGTON  VALLEY  — MAIL  CARRIAGE  —  POST  -  OFFICE  DEPARTMENT  — 
PENRITH-BLUE  MOUNTAINS  — MOUNT  VICTORIA— VALLEY  OF  CLWYD— BATHURST  — 
LAKES-BUSH  -  RANGERS  —  WELLINGTON  —  NATIVE  CHILDREN  —  MR.  WATSON-SHEEP- 
SHEARING—PROFITS  OF  SHEEP  -  FARMS— FLOODS  OF  THE  MACQUARIE— POPULATION 
OF  THE  WEST— NATIVE  LANGUAGES  — MR.  PEALE S  JOURNEY  — CLIFTON  — CAPTAIN 
M'ARTHUR— HE  INTRODUCES  THE  FINE- WOOL  SHEEP— LIVERPOOL— DAM  IN  COOK'S 
RIVER  — NEPEAN  RIVER  —  WALLABIES  -  STRATHARA— BIRDS— DECREASE  OF  NATIVE 
ANIMALS— VISIT  TO  NEWINGTON— SALT-WORKS— PREVALENCE  OF  SALT  IN  AUSTRA- 
LIA—DECREASE OF  LAKES— ANCIENT  FLOODS  — DESCRIPTION  OF  FISSURES— EARTH- 
QUAKES—BURNING  MOUNTAIN— TRADE  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES— FISHERIES— BANKS 

—  EXPORTS  —  DEPOTS  FOR  GRAIN  —  COLONY    AT  SWAN  RIVER  — SOUTH  AUSTRALIA 

—  FETE    AT   FORT   MACQUARIE  —  SURPRISE   OF   THE   COLONISTS   AT   OUR   WANT   OF 
PREPARATION— STATE   OF  THE  PEACOCK— ARRIVAL  OF  H.  B.  M.  SHIP  DRUID— SEASON 
OF  OUR  VISIT— FACILITIES  FOR   OUTFITS  AT  SYDNEY— KINDNESS  AND  HOSPITALITY 
OF   CITIZENS  — CHRISTMAS   DINNER  — DEPARTURE   OF   THE   SQUADRON  —  DESERTERS 
FOUND  ON  BOARD. 


(239) 


CHAPTER   VJII. 

NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 
1839. 

MY  own  time  was  so  completely  occupied  during  the  stay  of  the 
squadron  at  Sydney,  as  to  prevent  my  making  any  excursions  in  the 
colony,  with  the  exception  of  a  brief  visit  to  Paramatta,  by  invitation 
of  his  Excellency  the  Governor. 

The  distance  of  Paramatta  from  Sydney  is  fifteen  miles.  There  are 
two  methods  of  going  to  it  from  Sydney :  by  a  carriage  on  a  good 
macadamized  road,  or  by  a  steamer  up  the  Paramatta  river.  The 
latter  is  the  most  agreeable  mode,  and  the  scenery  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  is  fine.  The  whole  distance  abounds  in  positions  which  would 
furnish  beautiful  sites  for  villas,  upon  the  bays,  inlets,  and  headlands. 
Should  the  progress  of  the  colony  in  wealth  and  population  continue, 
these  sites  will  doubtless  be  occupied  ere  long  with  handsome  resi- 
dences. 

The  passage  by  steamer  to  Paramatta  occupies  about  two  hours ; 
here  the  river  becomes  narrow,  and  a  mile  higher  up  the  stream  the 
tide  ceases  to  flow,  and  farther  navigation  ceases. 

The  town  of  Paramatta  is  situated  about  a  mile  from  the  steamboat 
landing.  Although  regularly  laid  out,  it  has  a  straggling  air,  each 
house  having  a  large  space  enclosed  as  a  garden,  and  the  attempt  at 
regularity  rather  injures  its  appearance  by  giving  it  a  look  of  stiffness. 
It  has,  and  I  suppose  deserves,  the  reputation  of  being  a  dull  place.  It 
is  built  principally  on  a  single  street,  about  a  mile  long,  at  the  head  of 
which,  on  an  eminence,  is  situated  the  Government-House,  where  his 
Excellency  the  Governor  resides  during  the  summer  season. 

The  Paramatta  Observatory,  established  by  Sir  Thomas  Brisbane,  is 
a  small  building,  with  several  good  instruments  by  Jones,  Ramsden, 

VOL.  II.  31  (24» 


242  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

and  Troughton ;  but  I  regretted  to  see  the  dilapidated  state  it  was  in. 
Mr.  Dunlap,  the  present  incumbent,  obligingly  showed  me  the  instru- 
ments, and  I  passed  an  agreeable  morning  with  him.  He  is  allowed  a 
small  salary,  but  I  understood  that  no  allowance  was  made  for  repairs 
of  the  building,  &c. 

Paramatta  contains  some  public  buildings  and  works,  among  which 
are  the  female  penitentiary  or  factory,  which  has  already  been  de- 
scribed, a  stone  court-house,  barracks,  and  a  fine  stone  bridge  over  the 
Paramatta  river.  I  feel  greatly  indebted  to  Sir  George  and  Lady 
Gipps,  with  whom  I  passed  two  days,  for  the  kindness  and  atten- 
tion they  showed  me. 

Previous  to  Sir  George  Gipps's  going  to  New  South  Wales,  he  had 
been  in  Canada,  and  on  his  return  had  paid  a  short  visit  to  the  United 
States.  It  afforded  me  pleasure  to  find  the  liberal  views  and  feelings 
he  evinced  towards  our  country.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  at  the 
Government-House  my  time  passed  agreeably,  and  that  I  sensibly  felt 
the  exchange  of  such  agreeable  society  for  the  routine  of  my  duties  on 
shipboard.  Here,  also,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  several  agree- 
able people. 

The  houses  of  Paramatta  are  generally  no  more  than  two  stories 
high,  and  are  built  of  sandstone.  The  town  contains  several  churches. 
The  Government-House  is  a  commodious,  unpretending  two-story 
building.  The  grounds  are  extensive,  but  not  remarkable  for  beauty. 
A  farm  is  attached  to  the  domain,  where  many  government  cattle  are 
kept,  and  there  are  numerous  outbuildings  and  dairies.  The  ground 
had  a  familiar  look  to  me,  for  the  grass  was  burnt  up,  and  reminded 
me  of  my  home  at  Washington  during  the  heat  of  summer.  It  was, 
therefore,  an  unfavourable  time  to  see  its  beauties.  I  understood  that 
this  place  was  laid  out  as  an  experimental  farm ;  but  this  plan,  I  should 
suppose,  is  now  laid  aside,  for  the  people  of  the  colony  are  abundantly 
able  to  take  care  of  themselves. 

A  telegraph  is  placed  in  a  conspicuous  position  within  a  short  walk 
of  the  house,  which  communicates  with  Sydney,  and  was  formerly  in 
constant  use.  It  is  now  in  contemplation  to  remove  it,  as  it  is  rto  more 
needed,  which  is  a  farther  proof  of  the  advancement  of  this  colony 
towards  a  well-regulated  government. 

There  are  also  schools  at  Paramatta  under  the  direction  of  the  resi- 
dent chaplain. 

Several  of  the  gentlemen  who  were  left  at  Sydney,  visited  the  Illa- 
warra  district,  which  has  already  been  more  than  once  spoken  of.  They 
made  the  passage  from  Sydney  to  Woolongong  in  a  steamer.  Owing 
to  the  steamer  not  being  well-adapted  for  a  sea-voyage,  much  incon- 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  245 

through  which  the  sea  forces  a  passage  to  the  distance  of  one  hundred 
yards  or  more,  sweeping  along  at  a  furious  rate;  and  when  the  noise 
of  its  progress  has  nearly  died  away,  loud  thunderings  are  heard 
rushing  through  its  vaults.  The  Blow-Hole  of  Kiama  Point  is  already 
a  place  of  some  celebrity,  and  it  merits  to  be  so.  A  subterranean 
passage  of  about  twenty  feet  broad  by  eighteen  high,  receives  the 
advancing  wave,  which  passes  quietly  along  for  two  hundred  feet.  It 
then  meets  a  basaltic  wall,  against  which  it  dashes  with  a  sullen  roar, 
and  passes  upwards  through  a  narrow  opening  above,  rising  at  times 
to  a  height  of  one  hundred  feet,  throwing  off  innumerable  jets  in  all 
directions,  and  which  fall  around  in  ever-changing  forms. 

Some  of  the  basaltic  scenery  about  Kiama,  will  bear  comparison 
with  the  far-famed  Giant's  Causeway,  and  the  rocks  of  Stafta,  if  it  does 
not  surpass  them,  united  as  it  is  with  the  luxuriant  and  splendid  forests 
of  palms,  tree-ferns,  and  the  woody  creepers  of  the  tropics. 

About  Shoalhaven  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  farming  and 
grazing  districts  in  the  colony.  Its  scenery  is  extremely  picturesque, 
particularly  when  viewed  from  the  summit  of  Coolomgata.  The  broad 
Shoalhaven  river  is  seen  to  the  southward,  flowing  through  rich 
meadows  and  farms,  enclosing  a  delta ;  while  the  deep  and  sinuous 
bays  with  which  the  coast  is  indented,  and  which  enclose  innumerable 
islets,  appear  like  a  crowded  cluster  of  lakes. 

To  the  north,  a  wide  verdant  plain  extends  to  a  mountain  bluff', 
called  Broughton's  Head.  Through  this  the  Broughton  river  winds, 
and  beyond  it  is  seen  the  Illawarra  mountain  range. 

On  a  wide  platform  around  Woolorigong  Point,  are  to  be  seen  at 
high-water  mark,  globular  concretions,  that  resemble  cannon-balls  in 
appearance.  They  vary  in  size,  from  one  inch  to  four  in  diameter, 
and  are  very  compact  and  tough.  They  generally  contain  some  foreign 
body,  and  in  about  a  thh'd  of  them,  Mr.  Dana  found  a  single  fossil 
shell  in  a  beautiful  state  of  preservation.  For  a  full  detail  of  the 
geological  structure  of  this  district,  which  is  exceedingly  interesting,  I 
must  refer  to  the  Geological  Report. 

Mr.  Hale  and  Mr.  Agate  made  a  jaunt  to  the  Hunter  river,  and 
thence  to  Lake  Macquarie,  to  the  establishment  of  Mr.  Threlkeld,  the 
missionary  employed  among  the  aborigines. 

The  passage  to  Hunter  river,  a  distance  of  eighty  miles  to  the  north 
of  Sydney,  is  made  in  a  steamer.  The  boat  was  small  and  ill-adapted 
for  the  sea. 

Leaving  Sydney  just  before  dark,  they  reached  Newcastle,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Hunter  river,  about  noon  the  next  day.  They,  however, 
had  a  head  wind  and  much  sea  to  contend  against. 


246  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

Among  other  accidents,  the  shipping  of  a  sea  caused  much  fright 
among  the  women  on  board,  and  threw  one  poor  girl  into  hysterics. 
They  were  all  glad  to  pass  within  the  island  of  Nobboy,  off  the  mouth 
of  Hunter  river,  and  to  get  on  shore  at  Newcastle. 

The  town  of  Newcastle  is  a  small  village  of  seventy  or  eighty 
houses,  built  on  the  side  of  a  hill ;  it  contains  two  taverns  and  several 
grog-shops,  a  jail,  convict  stockade,  hospital,  court-house,  and  a  vene- 
rable old-looking  church.  On  one  of  the  neighbouring  hills  is  a  flag- 
staff, and  on  another  a  windmill.  The  business  of  a  coal-mine  and 
that  of  the  building  of  a  breakwater  for  the  protection  of  the  harbour, 
give  the  place  an  air  of  life  and  animation. 

Our  travellers  put  up  at  RowelPs  "Commercial  Hotel;"  and  on 
proceeding  to  make  inquiries  relative  to  the  mode  of  reaching  Mr. 
Threlkeld's,  they  were  referred  to  Dr.  Brook,  the  surgeon  of  the 
hospital,  and  a  friend  of  Mr.  Threlkeld.  He  offered  them  every 
attention,  and  advised  them  to  wait  for  Mr.  Threlkeld's  conveyance. 
This  delay  gave  them  an  opportunity  of  seeing  something  of  the  place, 
and  the  natives,  as  well  as  to  make  drawings.  The  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  from  the  windmill  was  extensive,  overlooking  the 
town ;  the  Hunter  river  was  seen  winding  through  a  well-wooded 
country,  rising  occasionally  into  low  hills.  At  a  bend  of  the  river  the 
steamer  was  seen  aground,  on  her  way  to  Maitland,  about  twenty- 
five  miles  farther  up  the  river.  The  coast  trended  to  the  north,  and 
was  visible  as  far  as  Port  Stephens,  about  fifty  miles  distant. 

There  are  two  coal-pits,  one  on  the  hill,  the  other  in  the  valley. 
The  former  is  the  older,  and  has  been  worked  about  eight  years. 
Both  are  the  property  of  the  Australian  Agricultural  Company,  and 
are  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  James  Steel.  The  coal  is  first  seen 
along  the  cliffs,  forming  black  horizontal  strata,  separated  by  sandstone 
and  clay  shale,  from  twenty  feet  to  forty  feet  in  thickness.  They 
formerly  quarried  it  from  the  cliff,  but  the  greater  part  of  the  coal  is 
now  obtained  by  mining. 

From  the  older  coal-pit  they  have  excavated  an  area  of  twenty-four 
acres.  The  shafts  are  carried  down  about  one  hundred  feet,  to  the 
fifth  or  lowermost  coal-seam,  which  is  about  sixty  feet  below  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  coal  is  at  first  taken  out  in  small  narrow  areas,  the 
passages  in  which  are  but  four  feet  high,  leaving  about  as  much 
standing  as  is  removed,  the  roof  above  being  of  fragile  shale,  and 
requiring  propping  every  three  or  four  feet.  The  work  is  all  per- 
formed by  convicts,  who,  after  digging  the  coal  out,  take  it  in  small 
carriages  on  railways,  which  pass  to  the  shaft,  where  it  is  raised  by 
steam-power.  The  lower  bed  only  is  considered  sufficiently  extensive 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  247 

and  pure  to  pay  for  its  exploration,  and  is  about  three  feet  thick.  The 
coal  is  pure,  except  a  layer  of  one  and  a  half  inches  of  bluish  sand- 
stone. It  is  bituminous,  and  burns  readily,  with  abundance  of  flame, 
somewhat  like  kennel  coal.  It  is  compact,  though  less  so  than  the 
best  Pittsburg  and  Liverpool,  and  is  of  fair  quality,  although  some- 
times impregnated  with  clay,  which  causes  it  to  leave  a  large  quantity 
of  ashes. 

Pyrites  is  occasionally  disseminated  in  masses  through  it.  Coal 
abounds  throughout  the  valley  of  the  Hunter,  appearing  at  the  surface 
in  many  places. 

The  average  quantity  of  coal  produced  is  sixty  tons  a  day,  which 
is  piled  up  near  the  mouth  of  the  pif,  and  thence  sent  to  the  pier  on  a 
railway,  where  it  is  shipped  to  Sydney,  Van  Diemen's  Land,  and  even 
to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  new  shaft  in  the  valley  is  only  sixty  feet  deep,  the  difference  of 
the  two  being  in  the  height  of  the  hill. 

Dr.  Brook  was  formerly  superintendent  of  this  station,  and  gave  a 
droll  account  of  the  summary  manner  in  which  marriages  were  con- 
cluded with  the  female  convicts.  If  he  saw  a  man  who  had  just  come 
in  from  the  country  with  a  clean  shirt  on,  he  was  sure  he  had  come 
for  a  wife,  and  the  event  always  justified  his  surmise.  The  man 
usually  intimated  his  wish  with  a  modest  sheepish  grin.  The  fair 
frail  candidates  for  matrimony  were  paraded  for  his  inspection,  and  if 
he  found  one  whose  looks  pleased  him,  he  put  the  plain  question  at 
once,  "Will  you  have  me?"  He  was  seldom  answered  in  the  nega- 
tive, for  marriage  liberates  the  lady  from  the  restraint  she  was  under. 
The  banns  were  then  announced  by  the  parson  for  three  Sundays, 
when  the  lucky  swain  returned  to  claim  his  bride. 

From  the  known  licentious  and  unruly  character  of  the  female  con- 
victs, it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  these  marriages  can  be  very  fruitful 
of  happiness;  but  as  both  parties  had  been  felons,  they  are  probably 
as  well  matched  as  could  be  expected. 

The  greatest  difficulty  the  superintendent  of  a  station  has  to  con- 
tend with,  is  the  management  of  the  female  convicts. 

Captain  Furlong,  commandant  of  the  garrison,  was  kind  enough  to 
show  the  convict  stockade;  it  encloses  a  prison  for  the  convicts,  and 
a  guard-house  for  the  soldiers.  The  convicts  all  belong  to  the  iron- 
gang,  composed  here,  as  at  Sydney,  of  those  who  have  been  guilty  of 
some  crime  in  the  colony.  They  were  kept  constantly  in  irons,  and 
are  employed  on  the  public  works.  They  eat  and  sleep  in  the  same 
apartments,  and  their  bed  is  a  blanket  on  the  floor;  to  guard  two 
hundred  convicts,  there  are  seventy  soldiers  stationed  here. 


248  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

At  Dr.  Brook's  they  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  with  Mr.  Dawson, 
the  first  agent  of  the  Australian  Land  Company,  and  the  founder  of 
Port  Stephens,  who  is  well  acquainted  with  this  colony,  and  has  pub- 
lished a  popular  work  in  relation  to  it.  He  of  course  possessed  much 
information,  and  among  other  opinions  seemed  to  entertain  the  idea 
that  no  free  colony  can  succeed,  and  that  in  all  cases  the  first  settlers 
of  a  new  country  ought  to  have  the  use  of  slave  labour,  in  order  to  be 
successful.  He  argued  that  these  only  had  realized  fortunes ;  where 
they  had  been  left  to  their  own  resources  they  had  generally  failed, 
and  left  it  to  their  successors  to  reap  the  advantages  of  their  labour. 
As  evidence  of  this  opinion  he  contrasted  the  settlements  of  New 
South  Wales  and  Swan  River.  At  the  latter  establishment  it  is  well 
known  that  the  first  settlers  have  lost  almost  every  thing,  and  have 
struggled  with  every  difficulty,  and  that  they  now  desire  to  have  the 
advantages  of  convict  labour.  This  remark,  however,  is  not  true  as 
respects  South  Australia ;  and  its  general  accuracy  would  undoubt- 
edly much  depend  upon  the  location. 

In  their  walks  they  came  across  a  group  of  several  blacks  (natives) 
seated  around  a  small  fire ;  they  were  pointed  out  as  the  remnant  of 
the  tribes  which  about  forty  years  ago  wandered  in  freedom  over  the 
plains  of  the  Hunter  and  around  the  borders  of  Lake  Macquarie. 
Their  appearance  was  wretched  in  the  extreme :  emaciated  limbs, 
shapeless  bodies,-  immense  heads,  deep-set  glaring  eyes,  thickly- 
matted  hair,  and  the  whole  begrimed  with  dirt  and  red  paint,  gave 
them  an  aspect  hardly  human.  The  dress  (if  such  it  could  be  called) 
of  the  women,  was  a  loose  ragged  gown,  and  of  the  men,  a  strip  of 
blanket  wrapped  round  the  middle,  or  a  pair  of  tattered  pantaloons, 
which  but  half  performed  their  office. 

Mr.  Threlkcld's  conveyance  did  not  arrive,  and  not  being  able  to 
get  another,  they  determined  to  walk  to  Lake  Macquarie,  and  for  this 
purpose  they  resorted  to  the  natives  as  guides,  and  by  a  great  deal  of 
coaxing  and  promises  of  bull  (grog),  their  natural  repugnance  to  make 
an  exertion  was  overcome.  An  evidence  of  the  pride  which  cha- 
racterizes these  natives  was  shown  in  this  interview.  One  of  them, 
whose  sobriquet  was  Big-headed  Blackboy,  was  stretched  out  before 
the  fire,  and  no  answer  could  be  obtained  from  him,  but  a  drawling 
repetition,  in  grunts  of  displeasure,  of  "  Bel  (not)  me  want  to  go." 
After  promises  and  expostulations  enough  to  overcome  all  patience, 
Mr.  Hale,  tired  of  his  obstinacy  and  stupidity,  touched  him  slightly 
with  his  foot,  telling  him  to  get  up  and  listen.  He  immediately  arose, 
and  seizing  his  spear,  which  was  lying  near  him,  turned  his  side 
towards  Mr.  Hale,  and  stood  looking  at  him  askance,  with  an  expres- 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  049 

sion  of  demoniac  malice,  as  though  he  would  have  run  him  through 
•with  pleasure ;  but  he  did  not  speak  a  word  in  reply  to  all  that  was 
said  to  him. 

Friday,  13th  December,  the  morning  being  chilly,  the  blacks,  who 
are  very  susceptible  to  cold,  did  not  make  their  appearance  till  some 
hours  after  sunrise.  At  half-past  eight  our  travellers  set  out  in  com- 
pany with  a  troop  of  natives,  headed  by  the  two  whom  they  had  hired. 
The  first  of  these  was  named  Jemmy,  the  best-natured  and  most  intel- 
ligent of  all;  the  other  was  Big-headed  Blackboy,  who  had  got  over 
his  sulks.  Jemmy  refused  to  start  until  he  had  received  a  couple  of 
shillings,  which  he  forthwith  converted  into  a  loaf  of  bread  and  a 
bottle  of  grog.  When  about  a  mile  from  the  town  he  asked  permis- 
sion to  take  a  drink  ;  and  a  cup  of  bark  was  produced  from  a  thicket 
where  it  had  been  hidden,  whereupon  the  contents  of  the  bottle  as  well 
as  the  loaf  were  shared  out  among  the  troop.  The  two  guides  took  no 
more  than  an  equal  portion  ;  for,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  natives, 
all  share  alike.  The  cup  was  made  of  a  piece  of  the  bark  of  the  ti 
tree,  which  resembles  that  of  the  birch,  about  a  foot  square.  The  ends 
were  folded  in  and  tied  together,  to  form  a  cavity  of  trough-like  shape. 
Such  cups  are  called  by  them  taude.  The  path  or  cart-road  they 
followed,  passed  through  a  hilly  country  covered  with  forests.  The 
gum  trees  were  the  most  prevalent,  and  many  of  them  were  of  great 
size,  growing  close  together  without  any  underwood. 

The  gum  tree,  of  which  there  are  many  kinds,  is  peculiar  to  New 
Holland.  It  has  an  inner  bark  of  about  an  inch  thick,  enclosed  by  an 
outer  one  which  is  quite  thin.  The  latter  is  shed  every  year,  which 
gives  their  trunks  and  branches  a  peculiar  appearance  of  many 
colours,  from  pure  white,  through  all  the  shades  of  yellow,  olive,  and 
red,  to  a  deep  brown.  These  colours,  showing  through  the  green 
foliage,  produce  a  very  striking  effect  on  a  stranger,  and  the  contrast 
is  heightened  by  an  occasional  sight  of  a  black  and  withered  trunk, 
from  which  the  bark  had  been  stripped  by  the  natives  to  make  canoes, 
or  by  settlers  to  roof  their  houses. 

Ten  miles  brought  them  to  Lake  Macquarie,  but  on  the  opposite 
side  to  Mr.  Threlkeld's  house,  and  they  found  themselves  disappointed 
in  finding  a  canoe,  which  they  were  assured  would  be  met  with  at 
a  settler's  on  the  banks  of  the  lake.  They  were  thus  obliged  to  walk 
ten  miles  further.  The  guides  were  here  again  taken  with  sullenness, 
and  refused  to  proceed.  They  were  proof  against  all  promises  and 
abuse,  and  kept  replying,  "  Me  marry  (very)  tired,  bel  (not)  me  want 
to  go."  Through  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Warren,  the  settler  referred  to, 
this  obstacle  was  overcome,  by  his  offering  to  send  his  son  as  guide, 

VOL.  ii.  32 


250  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

with  a  horse  to  carry  the  portmanteau.  This  offer  was  thankfully 
accepted. 

After  proceeding  a  few  miles  they  came  upon  a  little  encampment 
of  natives,  crouching  around  fires  in  front  of  their  huts,  which  were 
as  rude  as  possible,  made  of  a  few  pieces  of  bark  laid  against  a  stump 
and  covered  with  bushes ;  they  barely  sufficed  as  a  screen  to  keep  off 
the  wind.  One  of  the  women  was  quite  good-looking,  with  largo 
black  eyes,  white  teeth,  and  small  features.  She  was  better  dressed, 
too,  than  any  of  the  others,  and  the  pretty  half-caste  child  that  was 
clinging  to  her  skirts,  made  it  sufficiently  evident  in  what  manner  her 
finery  had  been  obtained.  As  a  part  of  the  lake  was  said  to  be 
fordable,  it  was  determined  to  take  advantage  of  it,  in  order  to  shorten 
the  route.  One  mounted  the  horse  to  pass  over.  Whilst  they  were 
proceeding  quietly  along,  the  horse  suddenly  reared  and  plunged, 
relieving  himself  of  his  rider  and  load,  which  were  thrown  into  water 
two  feet  deep,  without  any  further  injury  than  a  good  ducking,  and  the 
disparagement  of  the  wardrobe.  It  was  found  that  the  horse  had 
trodden  upon  a  stingray,  which  fully  accounted  for  his  sudden  gambols. 
It  was  sunset  when  they  arrived  at  Mr.  Threlkeld's  station,  which  at 
first  sight  appeared  like  a  comfortable  farm-house,  such  as  is  often  seen 
in  our  western  country.  Mr.  Threlkeld  was  found  busy  attending  to 
his  cattle,  and  gave  them  a  warm  and  friendly  reception,  which  made 
them  at  once  feel  at  home. 

As  Mr.  Threlkeld  has  occupied  a  conspicuous  place  in  this  colony, 
it  may  be  well  to  give  a  short  sketch  of  his  labours  in  the  missionary 
field,  in  order  to  show  the  progress  he  has  made,  and  the  difficulties 
he  has  had  to  contend  with.  I  do  this  more  readily  from  the  feeling 
that,  great  injustice  has  been  done  him,  and  that  he  has  suffered  much 
contumely  and  persecution  from  those  who  were  too  prone  to  listen  to 
the  scandalous  reports  of  interested  individuals. 

Mr.  Threlkeld  left  England  in  1814,  as  a  missionary  to  the  Society 
Islands;  he  resided  with  Mr.  Williams,  at  Raiatea,  until  1824,  when 
the  death  of  his  wife  determined  him  to  pay  a  visit  to  England.  About 
this  time  the  inspectors  of  missionaries,  Messrs.  Tyerman  and  Bennet, 
arrived  at  the  islands,  and  he  took  passage  with  them  to  Sydney.  On 
their  arrival  at  Sydney,  these  gentlemen,  supposing  that  a  favourable 
opportunity  offered  to  establish  a  mission  among  the  Australian 
aborigines,  requested  him  to  take  charge  of  it,  which  he  consented  to 
do.  Moreton  Bay  was  at  first  proposed  as  the  location,  but  it  was 
afterwards  changed  to  Lake  Macquarie,  the  latter  place  being  a 
favourite  resort  of  the  natives.  Ten  thousand  acres  were  granted  by 
government  to  the  Missionary  Society,  in  trust  for  the  natives.  The 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  251 

establishment  was  accordingly  begun  on  this  lake,  on  the  opposite  side 
to  that  now  occupied  by  Mr.  Threlkeld,  who  at  once  planned  his 
station  on  the  only  footing  by  which  he  thought  a  reasonable  chance 
of  success  would  be  insured,  that  of  a  farming  establishment,  extensive 
enough  to  give  employment  to  the  natives,  and  induce  them  to  settle. 
Their  number,  as  is  usually  the  case,  had  been  greatly  overrated  ;  he 
soon,  however,  collected  about  fifty  around  him,  and  began  to  employ 
them  in  felling  trees,  turning  up  the  ground,  and  building ;  at  the  same 
time  labouring  with  them  himself,  in  order  to  obtain  such  a  knowledge 
of  their  character,  language,  habits,  &c.,  as  might  enable  him  to 
become  useful  on  the  great  subjects  of  his  mission. 

The  expense  of  forming  such  an  establishment  was  far  greater  than 
had  been  anticipated,  but  was  indispensable  in  a  country  like  New 
South  Wales,  where  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  at  the  commencement 
of  a  settlement,  have  to  be  purchased.  Added  to  this  are  the  droughts 
to  which  they  are  subject,  and  the  expenses  of  transportation. 

In  consequence  of  the  demands  made  upon  them,  the  directors  of 
the  Society  became  alarmed,  and  after  reproving  him  severely  for  his 
extravagance,  finally  dishonoured  one  of  his  drafts,  and  refused  to  pay 
it  until  compelled  by  a  lawsuit.  This,  of  course,  broke  his  connexion 
with  the  Society,  as  Mr.  Threlkeld  was  naturally  indignant  at  the 
undeserved  disgrace  to  which  they  had  subjected  him. 

The  directors  offered  to  pay  his  passage  to  England,  but  this  he 
refused,  having  determined  to  carry  on  the  work  by  his  own  unassisted 
efforts. 

That  he  might  be  independent  of  any  funds  of  the  Society,  and  to 
prevent  its  being  said  that  he  had  derived  any  profit  from  them,  he 
removed  in  1828  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  a  position  far  less 
advantageous. 

After  struggling  for  two  years  to  conduct  the  mission  and  maintain 
his  large  family,  he  received  a  stipend  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds 
from  the  government,  with  the  assignment  of  four  convicts.  With  this 
assistance  he  has  been  able  to  provide  for  his  family,  and  devote  him- 
self to  the  instruction  of  the  aborigines ;  but  he  has  found  his  means 
inadequate  to  keep  a  number  employed  about  his  station,  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  overcome  their  natural  tendency  to  a  wandering  life. 

The  consequence  was,  that  the  blacks,  from  the  attraction  held  out 
to  them  of  indulging  in  drunkenness  and  other  vices,  left  his  neighbour- 
hood to  frequent  the  towns,  where  they  had  been  rapidly  diminishing 
in  number. 

Mr.  Threlkeld  did  not  find  the  natives  deficient  in  intelligence ;  but 
he  has  not  been  able  to  overcome  their  aversion  to  a  fixed  residence. 


252  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

In  proof  of  this,  they  abandoned  comfortable  and  substantial  huts, 
which  he  built  for  them,  after  a  few  days'  residence,  on  the  plea  that 
they  were  infested  with  vermin. 

Frequently,  they  would  all  quit  him  to  attend  some  meeting  of  their 
tribe,  for  war,  hunting,  or  some  religious  ceremony,  and  stay  away 
for  months. 

He  laboured  in  vain  against  these  disadvantages,  and  it  is  not  diffi- 
cult to  perceive  how  impossible,  under  such  circumstances,  it  would 
be  to  meet  with  success  in  teaching  and  converting  a  set  of  savages, 
so  wedded  to  their  usages. 

Mr.  Threlkeld's  labours  have,  however,  been  turned  to  some  advan- 
tage. He  has  published  a  grammar,  and  translated  several  of  the  books 
of  the  New  Testament.  His  influence  has  been  productive  of  a  better 
tone  of  feeling  between  the  blacks  and  the  settlers  than  prevails  else- 
where, and  has  prevented  those  outrages  which  have  occurred  in  other 
parts  of  the  country.  He  has  been  able  to  render  essential  service  as 
an  interpreter,  both  to  the  natives  and  government,  in  the  courts. 

A  circumstance  occurred  about  two  years  ago,  which  was  the  means 
of  setting  Mr.  Threlkeld's  whole  conduct  in  its  true  light  before  the 
public. 

The  Rev.  Dr.  Lang,  a  minister  of  considerable  notoriety  in  New 
South  Wales,  established  a  newspaper,  which  was  in  the  habit  of  hold- 
ing up  and  assailing  all  the  abuses  in  the  colony.  Among  others,  he 
attacked  Mr.  Threlkeld,  accusing  him  of  malversation,  unfaithfulness, 
and  incapacity  in  his  trust,  and  in  a  style  of  gross  abuse,  seconded  by 
vulgar  doggerel,  gave  grounds  to  the  belief  that  he  was  actuated  by  any 
other  than  a  proper  zeal  in  the  cause  of  missions.  After  great  for- 
bearance, Mr.  Threlkeld  wrote  him  a  letter  of  remonstrance,  which 
was  at  once  published  in  the  newspaper,  accompanied  with  insulting 
comments.  Mr.  Threlkeld  then  instituted  an  action  for  libel,  and 
obtained  a  verdict  in  his  favour,  which,  although  the  damages  were 
only  nominal,  is  an  uncommon  thing  in  New  South  Wales,  when  a 
libel  case  is  submitted  to  a  jury.  In  the  progress  of  the  trial,  the  merits 
and  sacrifices  of  the  missionary  were  made  apparent,  and  the  faithful- 
ness and  diligence  with  which  he  had  laboured,  under  so  many  disad- 
vantages, became  well  known,  for  ever  silencing  the  aspersions  of  his 
enemies.  He  had,  in  consequence,  the  satisfaction,  not  long  since,  of 
receiving  a  letter  from  the  directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
expressing  their  regret  that  they  should  have  been  led  into  such  unjust 
suspicions  and  misplaced  severity  towards  him. 

Macquarie  Lake  communicates  with  the  sea  by  a  narrow  inlet.  Its 
shape  is  irregular,  having  several  long  narrow  bays  extending  into  the 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  253 

land,  and  from  this  cause  it  is  in  reality  much  more  extensive  than  it 
appears.  The  soil  around  is  sterile,  and  its  principal  ingredient  is 
sandstone.  The  lake  is  surrounded  by  the  sombre  green  of  the  gum 
trees,  and  the  landscape  is  uninviting. 

Many  ant-hills  were  passed,  each  appearing  to  contain  a  numerous 
colony  of  different  species  of  ants.  They  are  of  various  colours,  red, 
black,  gray,  and  yellow,  and  of  all  sizes,  from  that  of  minute  animal- 
cules, to  that  of  a  wasp.  Most  of  them  were  said  to  give  poisonous 
bites,  and  those  of  the  largest  kinds  had  visible  stings.  Most  of  the 
snakes,  small  as  well  as  large,  are  venomous  to  a  high  degree. 

Mr.  Threlkeld,  like  many  others  in  the  colony,  had  convict  servants 
assigned  for  the  use  of  the  station.  It  is  thought  almost  impossible  for 
a  settler  to  manage  his  affairs  without  them,  and  it  is  somewhat 
curious  to  see  a  clergyman  associated  and  in  daily  intercourse  with 
thieves  and  abandoned  felons.  There  is  scarcely  a  person  in  comfort- 
able circumstances,  who  has  not  derived  much  of  his  fortune  from 
their  exertions,  although  not  without  suffering  very  much  from  the 
constant  vexations  attendant  on  such  aid.  Mr.  Threlkeld  had  hired  a 
family  of  emigrants  as  intermediate  assistants,  but  he  was  doubtful  if 
he  had  benefited  himself  by  it. 

The  difference  between  the  two  kinds  of  servants  is  great.  The 
convict,  on  the  one  hand,  is  obliged  to  do  the  work  his  master  appoints, 
and  in  the  exact  manner  he  directs ;  but  the  master  suffers  from  his 
vices  and  dishonesty ;  and  on  the  other  hand,  the  emigrant  is  under  all 
his  English  prejudices :  self-willed,  and  conscious  of  his  superiority 
over  the  other  servants,  he  will  not  be  driven,  and  is  hardly  to  be 
coaxed  into  adopting  the  necessary  alterations  which  the  difference  of 
soil  and  climate  requires.  Both  try,  in  no  small  degree,  the  temper  of 
a  settler  in  New  South  Wales. 

At  Mr.  Threlkeld's,  Mr.  Hale  saw  M'Gill,  who  was  reputed  to  be 
one  of  the  most  intelligent  natives ;  and  his  portrait  was  taken  by  Mr. 
Agate.  His  physiognomy  was  much  more  agreeable  than  that  of  the 
other  blacks,  being  less  strongly  marked  with  the  peculiarities  of  his 
race.  He  was  about  the  middle  size,  of  a  dark  chocolate  colour,  with 
fine  glossy  black  hair  and  whiskers,  a  good  forehead,  eyes  not  deeply 
set,  a  nose  that  might  be  described  as  aquiline,  although  depressed  and 
broad  at  the  base.  It  was  very  evident  that  M'Gill  was  accustomed  to 
teach  his  native  language,  for  when  he  was  asked  the  name  of  any 
thing,  he  pronounced  the  word  very  distinctly,  syllable  by  syllable,  so 
that  it  was  impossible  to  mistake  it.  Though  acquainted  with  the 
doctrines  of  Christianity,  and  all  the  comforts  and  advantages  of  civi- 
lization, it  was  impossible  for  him  to  overcome  his  attachment  to  the 


254 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 


customs  of  his  people,  and  he  is  always  a  prominent  leader  in  the 
corrobories  and  other  assemblies. 


M'GILL. 


Mr.  Threlkeld  has  a  son,  who  is  also  engaged  in  missionary  labours 
near  Darling  river,  about  three  hundred  miles  in  the  interior,  and 
who  understands  the  language.  A  boy  was  sent  down  by  the  son  for 
the  father  to  take  charge  of.  There  was  no  difference  perceived 
between  him  and  the  natives  of  the  Hunter  river. 


NEW  HOLLAND  BOY. 


Inquiries  for  their  implements  of  the  chase  and  warfare,  caused 
M'Gill,  King  Ben,  and  Shingleman,  to  set  to  work  to  furbish  up  their 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  255 

arms,  including  spears,  shields,  boomerengs,  clubs,  &c.  The  natives 
are  seldom  seen  -without  arms,  for  they  have  not  only  to  fear  attacks 
from  other  tribes,  but  assaults  from  their  own.  This  not  unfrequently 
happens ;  and  it  is  not  long  since  the  brother  of  King  Ben  was  speared 
while  asleep,  for  some  private  grudge,  by  Dismal ;  and  it  is  said  that 
Big-headed  Blackboy,  who  has  already  been  introduced  to  the  reader, 
has  committed  several  murders,  and  not  long  since  burnt  his  mother 
nearly  to  death,  in  revenge  for  the  loss  of  his  brother,  who  died  whilst 
under  her  care.  This  was  not  because  he  had  any  suspicions  of  unfair 
conduct,  but  simply  from  one  of  the  unaccountable  customs  or  super- 
stitions of  these  people,  which  holds  the  nearest  relative  of  a  person 
accountable  for  his  death,  if  it  takes  place  under  his  care. 

From  the  destructive  influence  of  their  own  vices,  and  those  of  the 
community,  these  blacks  are  rapidly  dying  off.  As  an  instance  of 
this,  Mr.  Threlkeld  mentioned  that  a  tribe  which  occasionally  visited 
the  lake,  and  consisted  at  the  time  of  his  arrival  of  sixty,  is  now 
reduced,  after  a  lapse  of  fifteen  years,  to  twenty,  only  five  of  whom 
are  females. 

During  our  travellers'  stay,  two  natives  of  some  note  arrived :  King 
Ben  and  King  Shingleman.  The  natives  had  no  distinctions  of  rank 
among  themselves,  but  when  a  native  had  performed  any  great  service 
for  one  of  the  settlers,  he  was  rewarded  by  giving  him  a  large  oval 
brass  plate,  with  his  royal  title  inscribed  thereon.  At  first  the  natives 
were  greatly  pleased  and  proud  of  this  mark  of  distinction,  but  as  is 
the  case  every  where,  when  the  novelty  was  over,  and  these  honorary 
medals  became  common,  they  began  to  hold  them  in  disrepute,  and 
now  prefer  the  hard  silver. 

Sheep-shearing  is  performed  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lake  Mac- 
quarie  by  men  who  make  it  their  business.  This  operation  was 
witnessed  by  some  of  our  party,  and  was  thought  to  be  performed  in  a 
slovenly  manner.  It  generally  takes  place  in  November  and  December. 

Some  others  of  our  gentlemen  paid  a  visit  to  Peuen  Beuen,  the 
seat  of  Mr.  Stevens,' near  the  head  waters  of  the  Hunter  river.  The 
route  was  by  steamboat  to  Newcastle  and  thence  to  Maitland.  The 
river  at  Newcastle  is  about  one-third  of  a  mile  across,  and  the  dis- 
tance to  Maitland,  by  water,  about  thirty  miles,  although  it  is  only 
about  twenty  miles  by  land.  The  tide  reaches  Maitland,  where  the 
water  is  found  to  be  brackish. 

The  banks  of  the  river  are  extended  flats.  This  is  one  of  the 
principal  agricultural  districts  of  the  colony,  the  soil  enjoying  the 
advantages  of  being  naturally  irrigated ;  but  on  the  other  hand,  the 
crops  are  liable  to  destruction  from  heavy  floods.  These  floods  fre- 


256  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

quently  occur,  when  there  has  been  no  sign  of  bad  weather  on  the 
coast ;  but  storms  of  rain  occur  seventy  or  eighty  miles  in  the  interior, 
which  raise  the  streams  thirty  or  forty  feet,  doing  great  damage. 

On  the  way  up  the  Hunter,  a  steamboat  was  seen  building.  The 
best  ship-timber  is  said  to  be  the  flooded  gum  tree.  The  steamboat 
stopped  at  Green  Hill,  and  they  rode  to  Maitland,  about  three  miles. 
Maitland  is  a  widely-scattered  village,  with  many  neat  dwellings, 
stores,  and  shops,  &c.,  built  of  brick  and  other  materials,  and  much 
better  than  could  have  been  anticipated.  Near  Harper's  Hill,  a  place 
noted  for  the  fossils  which  have  been  found  there,  a  chain-gang  was 
seen  at  work  on  the  road,  with  their  attendant  guard.  They  were 
generally  young  and  hearty-looking  men. 

Some  natives  were  passed  who  were  quite  naked,  but  they  did  not 
attempt  to  approach.  There  are  no  wild  tribes  in  this  vicinity.  These 
poor  creatures  are  becoming  rapidly  exterminated  by  the  whites,  who 
are  not  over-scrupulous  as  to  the  means.  The  natives  have  now  and 
then  committed  a  murder,  but  in  general  they  are  more  sinned  against 
than  sinning.  It  is  remarkable  that  they  do  not  complain  of  their 
lands  being  taken  from  them,  but  confine  their  lamentations  to  the 
destruction  of  the  kangaroos  by  the  whites ;  and  they  think  it  very 
hard  that  they  should  be  punished  for  killing  the  white  man's  kangaroo, 
(a  sheep  or  a  bullock.) 

Mr.  Hale  made  a  journey  to  the  Wellington  Valley,  about  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty  miles  to  the  northwest  of  Sydney,  and  on  the  frontiers 
of  the  colony.  It  was  first  occupied,  seventeen  years  ago,  as  a  military 
post,  when  several  small  brick  buildings  were  erected,  and  some  of  the 
land,  which  is  considered  the  most  fertile  in  the  colony,  brought  into 
cultivation.  It  was  afterwards  converted  into  a  penal  station,  for  a 
description  of  convicts  called  "  Specials,"  or  such  as  were  superior  in 
education  and  social  rank. 

In  1832,  it  was  granted  by  government  to  the  Church  Missionary 
Society,  in  trust  for  the  aborigines,  with  an  annuity  of  five  hundred 
pounds,  in  part  as  the  support  of  a  mission  establishment  on  the 
grant ;  and  ever  since,  there  have  been  two  ministers  of  the  Society 
resident  at  the  place,  employed  in  endeavouring  to  convert  and 
civilize  the  natives. 

The  only  conveyance  is  the  mails,  unless  a  vehicle  is  purchased,  the 
outlay  for  which  would  be  about  four  hundred  dollars.  The  mail  was 
taken  in  preference  to  this  mode,  both  as  avoiding  cost  and  as  less 
liable  to  the  dangers  of  journeying  alone.  On  account  of  the  numerous 
Bush-rangers  and  runaway  convicts,  travelling  in  New  South  Wales  is 
not  considered  safe. 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  257 

The  mail  leaves  Sydney  once  a  week  for  Wellington  Valley.  There 
is  some  difficulty  in  procuring  a  seat,  and  the  fare  is  thirty-two  dollars 
and  fifty  cents ;  a  very  exorbitant  charge  considering  the  mode  of  con- 
veyance, which  was  a  two-wheeled  vehicle,  with  seats  for  five  persons. 
It  had  no  top,  and  was  in  all  respects  a  very  uncomfortable  convey- 
ance. Formerly  more  commodious  coaches  were  employed ;  but  the 
government,  finding  that  the  contractors,  in  their  anxiety  to  obtain 
passengers,  were  accustomed  to  delay  the  mail,  ordered  that  none  but 
two-wheeled  vehicles  should  be  used.  The  party  left  Sydney  about 
5  p.  M.  Three  miles  from  town  is  an  inn  at  which  the  mail-carts  from 
all  parts  of  the  country  meet,  so  as  to  enter  the  city  in  company  at  8 
A.M.  For  every  minute  of  delay  after  this  hour,  the  penalty  of  a 
shilling  is  exacted. 

The  post-office  department  is  now  under  excellent  regulations ;  the 
number  of  miles  of  mail  route  travelled  in  the  colony  is  nearly  three 
hundred  thousand,  and  the  gross  revenue  amounts  to  eight  thousand 
three  hundred  and  ninety  pounds,  being  two  thousand  pounds  more 
than  the  expenditure.  The  rate  of  postage  is  high,  especially  on  ship- 
letters.  The  post  was  established  in  1828,  and  at  the  end  of  the  first 
year  only  eight  post-offices  were  opened.  In  1839,  there  were  forty, 
showing  the  great  increase  of  population  and  business. 

The  route  towards  Wellington  Valley  lay  through  Paramatta ;  and 
about  11  p.  M.  Penrith,  thirty-six  miles  from  Sydney,  and  on  the 
Nepean,  was  reached.  The  mail  left  Penrith  at  four  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and  crossed  the  river  on  a  raft.  The  Nepean,  on  its  course 
towards  the  sea,  assumes  the  name  of  Hawkesbury,  and  becomes  the 
largest  stream  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  colony.  At  Penrith  it  is  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of 
the  Emu  Plains, — an  interval  of  level  ground,  five  or  six  miles  broad, 
between  the  river  and  the  Blue  Mountains. 

These  mountains  are  the  dividing  range  between  the  lands  of  the 
coast  and  the  interior,  and  were,  for  many  years  after  the  establishment 
of  the  colony,  considered  as  impassable,  although  many  unsuccessful 
attempts  to  cross  them  wrere  made  previous  to  the  administration  of 
Governor  Macquarie.  During  his  administration,  he  sent  out  many 
expeditions  by  land  and  sea,  and  in  1814,  a  passage  was  effected,  and 
the  plains  of  Bathurst  were  discovered. 

On  reaching  this  part  of  the  country,  one  is  no  longer  surprised  that 
these  mountains  were  considered  impassable.  The  barrier  consists  of 
a  broad  belt  of  mountainous  country,  about  fifty  miles  in  width,  and 
varying  in  height  from  one  thousand  to  three  thousand  five  hundred 
feet,  according  to  Mitchell.  The  route  which  was  followed  through 
VOL.  n.  33 


258  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

them  was  about  eighty  miles  in  length,  and  for  the  whole  distance  there 
were  not  more  than  five  or  six  miles  of  level,  and  those  are  chiefly 
due  to  the  planning  of  the  engineers.  The  road  is  constantly  ascending 
or  descending,  and  on  every  side,  as  far  as  the  view  extends,  is  a  suc- 
cession of  mountain  ridges,  their  summits  rising  in  detached  peaks,  and 
their  declivities  terminating  in  narrow  and  deep  gorges.  Their  sides 
are  sometimes  clothed  with  a  scanty  growth  of  dark  evergreens,  but 
in  very  many  places  presented  only  bare  and  rugged  masses  of  brown 
sandstone  rock.  The  whole  scene  for  the  first  forty  miles,  is  wild, 
dismal,  and  monotonous  beyond  description.  In  the  latter  part  of  the 
route  through  the  mountains,  the  scenery  begins  to  improve,  and  finally 
becomes  very  striking,  the  sandstone  being  succeeded  by  trap  and 
granite.  The  descent  of  Mount  Victoria  is  celebrated  for  its  beauty 
throughout  the  colony.  This  road  was  laid  out  by  Major  Mitchell,  the 
Surveyor-General  of  the  colony,  and  by  him  the  mountain  was  named. 
The  descent  of  this  mountain  is  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  and  in  some 
parts  is  inclined  at  an  angle  of  five  degrees.  The  road  is  cut  in  the 
solid  rock,  it  is  hard,  smooth,  and  accurately  graduated,  and  notwith- 
standing its  great  angle  of  declivity,  heavily  laden  teams  ascend  with 
less  difficulty  than  would  be  supposed.  At  the  foot,  the  road  is  carried 
along  a  high  embankment  or  viaduct,  which  has  been  thrown  across  a 
deep  chasm,  and  the  river  flowing  on  either  side  is  fine.  On  the  left  is 
a  wide  deep  gorge,  encircled  by  high  and  naked  precipices  topped 
with  the  sombre  hue  of  the  gum  trees ;  on  the  right,  an  open  valley, 
with  a  rivulet  winding  through  it,  sloping  gently  towards  the  northeast, 
gives  a  totally  different  current  to  the  feelings.  Governor  Macquarie 
has  named  this  the  Vale  of  Clwyd,  after  a  similar  scene  in  Wales. 

A  little  beyond  this  descent  is  the  Weatherboard  Inn,  the  land  about 
which  is,  according  to  Major  Mitchell,  the  only  spot  among  the  moun- 
tains fit  for  cultivation.  He  mentions,  in  order  to  show  the  difficulties 
the  surveyors  had  to  encounter,  that  one  of  them,  a  Mr.  Dixon,  pene- 
trated the  valley  of  the  Grose,  which,  until  then,  had  not  been  visited, 
where  he  was  lost  for  four  days,  having  been  bewildered  by  the  intri- 
cate character  of  the  valleys ;  and  when  he  finally  emerged  from  them, 
he,  in  his  official  letter,  "  thanked  God  he  had  found  his  way  out  of 
them." 

Shortly  after  leaving  the  inn,  two  small  rivulets  are  passed,  pursuing 
opposite  directions.  One  of  them  falls  into  Cox's  river,  a  branch  of 
the  Hawkesbury ;  the  other,  the  Fish  river,  discharges  into  the  Mac- 
quarie. Not  far  distant  is  Mount  Lambie,  the  last  and  highest  emi- 
nence of  the  range,  from  whose  summit  the  lighthouse  of  Port  Jackson 
is  visible,  at  a  distance  of  sixty  miles.  The  road  passes  within  a  few 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  259 

yards  of  this  place,  and  it  was  here  that  Major  Mitchell  encamped 
when  he  was  employed  in  laying  down  his  plans  for  the  construction 
of  it  across  the  whole  range.  This  road  will  compare  advantageously 
with  almost  any  work  of  the  kind  in  any  country ;  and  this  and  other 
public  improvements  are  frequently  adduced  as  the  benefits  conferred 
upon  the  colony  by  convict  labour.  There  can  be  but  little  doubt  that 
the  colonial  government  has  many  facilities  to  carry  forward  improve- 
ments, but  I  very  much  question,  if  all  things  were  taken  into  the  cal- 
culation, that  it  would  be  found  to  result  in  so  great  a  difference  as  is 
generally  supposed. 

After  leaving  the  mountains,  the  road  leads  for  several  miles  through 
an  undulating  country,  covered  with  an  open  forest  of  stunted  gum 
trees,  and  then  comes  in  sight  of  the  plains  of  Bathurst.  These  are 
of  moderate  extent,  being  little  more  than  the  valley  through  which 
the  river  Macquarie  finds  a  channel.  In  the  month  of  December  there 
was  no  flowing  stream,  and  the  river,  which  at  some  seasons  is  a  broad 
and  powerful  current,  consisted  merely  of  a  string  of  pools. 

The  appearance  of  the  town  of  Bathurst  disappoints.  It  consists  of 
a  few  hundred  houses,  scattered  in  detached  groups  over  the  plain. 
The  absence  of  trees  and  cultivation  serves  to  increase  the  want  of 
interest  in  the  landscape.  The  town-plot  was  first  laid  out  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  river,  but  after  several  houses  had  been  erected,  it 
was  removed  to  the  opposite  bank,  a  circumstance  which  accounts  for 
the  dispersed  appearance  of  the  village.  Most  of  the  wealthy  in- 
habitants have  their  dwellings  two  or  three  miles  removed  from  the 
town,  among  the  low  hills  in  the  neighbourhood ;  from  which  circum- 
stance, the  importance  of  the  place  and  the  extent  of  the  settlement  is 
not  at  first  apparent. 

The  low  bottom-land  in  which  Bathurst  stands  is  believed  from 
various  indications  to  have  been  at  no  distant  period  a  lake.  At  the 
time  of  its  discovery  it  was  little  better  than  a  marsh,  and  the  Mac- 
quarie was  flowing  in  a  deep  and  strong  current  nearly  on  a  level 
with  its  banks,  and  was  navigable  for  large  boats.  The  plain  was 
covered  with  long  prairie  grass,  which  led  to  the  belief  that  it  was  of 
inexhaustible  fertility ;  but  the  general  opinion  of  the  intelligent  resi- 
dents is,  that  for  the  last  twenty  years  the  country  west  of  the  Blue 
Mountains  has  been  gradually  drying  up.  Lakes  which,  when  first 
discovered,  were  extensive  sheets  of  water,  deep  enough  to  float  a 
seventy-four,  are  now  inconsiderable  ponds ;  swamps  have  been  con- 
verted into  dry  pasture-lands ;  and  there  is  hardly  a  river  which  now 
continues  running  throughout  the  year.  It  is  remarkable,  that  in  these 
lakes  and  ponds,  which  have  become  dry,  there  are  found  the  stumps 


2GO  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

of  large  trees,  showing  conclusively  that  these  places  must  have  been 
dry  at  some  former  period,  and  that  they  had  continued  so  for  a  long 
time,  giving  rise  to  the  opinion  that  the  country  must  be  subject  to 
long  periodical  alterations  of  climate. 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th,  Mr.  Hale  started  in  the  mail-cart  for 
Wellington.  For  the  first  twenty  miles  the  road  was  a  mere  cart- 
track,  through  a  piece  of  hilly  country  called  "  the  Rocks,"  which  is  a 
repetition  of  the  Blue  Mountains  on  a  smaller  scale.  Beyond,  there  is 
a  succession  of  valleys,  bounded  by  ranges  of  low  hills,  and  covered 
with  open  woods,  like  a  continuous  orchard.  This  kind  of  country 
continues  to  Wellington  Valley,  and  for  the  distance  of  a  hundred  miles 
beyond,  when  it  gradually  subsides  into  a  level  plain,  in  which  many 
exploring  parties  have  continued  their  progress  for  weeks,  without 
meeting  any  elevation  deserving  the  name  of  mountain.  These  plains 
stretch  away  towards  the  interior  of  the  continent,  but  of  their  extent 
in  that  direction  nothing  certain  is  yet  known. 

Twenty  miles  from  Bathurst  brought  them  to  an  inn  kept  by  a  man 
named  Luck,  which  had  been,  about  six  weeks  before,  the  scene  of  a 
tragical  incident.  During  the  absence  of  the  landlord,  a  party  of 
Bush-rangers  entered  the  house  at  night,  and  began  to  plunder.  Al- 
though they  had  taken  the  precaution  to  disguise  themselves  with 
masks  of  black  crape,  the  landlady  recognised  one  of  them,  and  was 
so  imprudent  as  to  threaten  him  with  the  consequences  of  his  crime, 
whereupon  the  robber  without  hesitation  drew  his  pistol,  and  shot  her 
dead  on  the  spot.  What  will  add  to  the  illustration  of  the  state  of 
society  here,  is  the  fact  that  the  murdered  woman,  though  living  with 
Luck  as  his  wife,  was  not  married  to  him.  The  laxity  of  morals 
which  prevails  throughout  the  interior  among  the  lower  orders,  can 
hardly  be  exaggerated. 

The  next  public  house  to  Luck's  was  a  low  tavern,  in  which  it  was 
not  unusual  for  stockmen,  sheep-shearers,  wagon-drivers,  &c.,  to  meet 
and  spend  a  week  in  drunkenness  and  debauchery,  dissipating,  not 
unfrequently,  the  earnings  of  a  year,  amounting  to  twenty  or  thirty 
pounds.  Another  inn  was  kept  by  the  brother  of  the  proprietor,  he 
having  committed  some  crime  for  which  he  had  been  transported  to 
Norfolk  Island.  The  last  of  the  public  houses  was  kept  by  a  native 
of  the  colony,  and  was  the  best  met  with.  This  was  another  instance 
of  the  good  character  and  general  deportment,  and  temperate  habits  of 
this  class,  who  in  spite  of  their  unhappy  parentage,  evil  example,  and 
inauspicious  connexions,  offer  a  remarkable  example  of  the  improve- 
ment .which  education,  when  aided  by  a  change  of  condition,  may 
effect  in  a  single  generation. 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  2GI 

The  stopping-places  for  the  next  two  days  were  the  huts  of  stock- 
men, and  dwellings  of  settlers,  all  of  which  resembled  each  other  in 
their  construction.  The  sides  were  made  of  slabs  of  wood  placed 
upright  in  the  earth,  and  were  sometimes  fastened  to  a  frame;  the 
roof  was  composed  of  strips  of  the  bark  of  the  gum  tree.  In  the  better 
sort  of  houses  there  were  chimneys  of  brick,  and  glazed  windows  ; 
but  these  were  comparatively  few;  and  in  the  others  an  elevated 
hearth  of  clay,  in  a  recess  of  the  hut,  supplied  the  former,  the  smoke 
escaping  through  the  roof.  A  cupboard,  a  camp  bedstead,  a  rude 
table,  with  a  few  stools,  supplied  the  want  of  furniture.  In  houses  of 
this  description,  were  living  gentlemen  of  education  and  refined  habits, 
who  were  submitting  to  a  few  years  of  hardship  and  banishment  from 
social  life,  in  hopes  of  realizing  rapid  fortunes. 


On  the  18th,  Wellington  Valley  was  reached.  It  is  a  beautiful 
plain,  about  four  miles  square,  bounded  by  low  hills,  and  watered  in 
seasons  of  freshet  by  the  Bell  river,  which  winds  through  it,  and  falls 
into  the  Macquarie  about  two  miles  below  the  station.  During  the 
season  of  Mr.  Hale's  visit  the  channel  was  dry. 

The  buildings  at  Wellington  consist  of  a  dozen  small  brick  houses, 
erected  formerly  as  barracks  for  soldiers,  and  having  undergone  some 
slight  alteration  and  repair,  they  are  now  inhabited  by  the  missiona- 


2C2  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

ries  and  a  police  magistrate.  The  former  are  three  in  number,  two 
clergymen  and  an  agriculturist.  They  have  under  instruction  forty 
men,  women,  and  children,  but  the  wandering  and  capricious  habits  of 
these  aborigines  render  it  impossible  to  keep  the  adults  with  them. 
Mr.  Watson,  the  eldest  of  the  missionaries,  has  now  with  him  fifteen 
children,  whom  he  does  not  allow  to  leave  his  house,  and  is  endea- 
vouring to  teach  them  the  habits  of  Europeans,  and  the  English 
language.  He  considers  them  as  equal  to  white  children  in  docility 
and  intelligence,  and  several  of  them  had  made  as  much  proficiency 
in  the  various  branches  of  education,  as  could  be  expected  at  their 
age.  They  could  read  and  write  with  facility,  and  solve  questions  in 
elementary  arithmetic.  They  had  a  natural  aptitude  for  music,  and 
they  joined  with  much  harmony  in  singing  common  English  tunes. 

Mr.  Hale  was  greatly  indebted  to  the  chief  missionary,  Mr.  Watson, 
for  his  hospitality  and  the  aid  he  furnished  in  his  researches  into  the 
language,  manners,  and  customs  of  the  natives. 

While  at  Wellington,  he  passed  a  few  days  at  the  station  of  W.  O. 
Raymond,  Esq.,  one  of  the  magistrates  of  the  colony,  who  is  owner 
of  a  large  stock  of  cattle  and  sheep.  His  house  is  situated  on  the 
Macquarie,  and  here  an  opportunity  presented  itself  of  seeing  the 
operation  of  washing  and  shearing  the  sheep.  This  took  place  at  the 
time  of  their  visit,  and  was,  on  account  of  the  lateness  of  the  season, 
about  a  month  later  than  usual. 

The  sheep  were  plunged  and  held  in  a  tub  of  hot  water,  until  their 
fleeces  were  thoroughly  soaked ;  they  were  then  taken  out  and  made 
to  swim  about  in  one  of  the  deep  pools  of  the  Macquarie,  for  half  an 
hour ;  after  this  they  were  held  under  the  spout  of  a  pump,  where  they 
were  rubbed,  combed,  and  rinsed,  until  their  wool  was  considered 
sufficiently  clean. 

The  sheep  are  shorn  when  dry,  and  the  fleeces  assorted  according 
to  their  fineness,  in  lots,  which  are  afterwards  packed  in  bales  of  from 
two  to  three  hundred  pounds:  these  are  then  compressed  by  a  lever-press. 

The  average  weight  of  a  fleece  is  about  two  and  a  half  pounds. 
Mr.  Raymond  calculates  the  cost  of  transportation  to  Sydney  at  about 
two  pence  per  pound,  and  the  average  price  of  the  wool  there  is 
eighteen  pence  per  pound.  The  freight  to  England  is  one  and  a  half 
pence ;  and  there  it  has  to  compete  with  fine  wools  from  other  coun- 
tries. As  to  the  question  whether  this  can  be  done  profitably,  there  is 
a  considerable  difference  of  opinion  between  well-informed  persons  in 
the  colony.  According  to  some,  it  can  be  afforded  even  at  a  much 
lower  rate,  but  in  this  estimate  the  labour  of  those  who  are  employed 
as  shepherds  is  no  doubt  calculated  as  being  that  of  convicts,  and  it 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  203 

may  be  questionable  whether,  when  this  source  of  labour  fails,  the  price 
will  be  a  remunerating  one. 

The  flocks  of  sheep  kept  near  Wellington  are  pastured  beyond  the 
legal  limits,  which  is  a  meridian  line,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  that 
place.  Beyond  this  line  the  government  refuses  to  make  any  grants  of 
land ;  but  any  respectable  inhabitant,  on  the  payment  of  ten  pounds, 
may  obtain  a  license  to  pasture  his  flocks  beyond  this  artificial 
boundary. 

Each  flock  consists  of  from  five  hundred  to  a  thousand  sheep,  and 
is  under  the  care  of  a  single  shepherd.  There  are  usually  two  flocks 
to  each  station,  where  a  servant  is  employed  as  hut-keeper.  The  cost 
of  these  when  convicts,  is  no  more  than  their  food  and  clothing,  which 
is,  however,  rendered  greater  than  would  at  first  seern  probable,  by 
the  necessity  of  bringing  even  flour  from  Sydney. 

The  land  and  labour  may,  however,  be  put  down  at  an  expense 
merely  nominal,  for  the  increase  of  the  flocks  at  present  more  than 
counterbalances  this  item ;  but  this  advantage  will  cease  when  the 
assigned  convicts  are  withdrawn  from  the  colony ;  the  wages  of  a 
hired  servant  will  then  amount  to  from  seventeen  to  twenty  pounds  a 
year,  exclusive  of  his  clothing  and  food. 

The  cost  of  a  sheep  varies  much  in  different  parts  of  the  colony ; 
the  average  price  is  from  three  shillings  to  one  pound,  so  that  the 
outlay  for  the  smallest  flock  would  be  from  seventy-five  to  five  hun- 
dred pounds.  Comparing  this  with  the  price  of  wool,  (eighteen  pence 
per  pound,)  an  estimate  may  be  formed  of  the  probable  profits. 

The  climate  seems  peculiarly  well  adapted  to  a  fine-woolled  sheep, 
and  it  is  calculated  that  the  flocks  double  themselves  in  three  or  four 
years.  In  1807,  the  quantity  of  wool  exported  was  not  more  than 
two  hundred  and  forty-five  pounds,  in  1838  and  1839  it  exceeded  five 
millions  of  pounds.  With  these  facts,  the  rapid  accumulation  of  for- 
tunes in  New  South  Wales  will  no  longer  be  a  mystery. 

It  is  said  that  the  owners  of  stock  have  already  pushed  their  stations 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  beyond  the  boundary,  and  the  only  im- 
pediment to  their  farther  extension  seems  to  be  the  scarcity  of  water, 
of  which  the  more  remote  country  is  almost  destitute. 

The  country  about  Wellington  becomes  almost  impassable  during 
heavy  rains,  for  the  waters  are  then  so  much  swelled  as  to  put  a  stop 
to  travelling.  Mr.  Hale  was  detained  a  week  from  this  cause;  and  at 
Wellington,  the  Macquarie,  which  was  before  only  a  string  of  pools, 
became  a  large  river,  flowing  with  a  rapid  current ;  yet  at  a  distance 
of  twenty  miles  farther  down,  it  had  ceased  to  flow,  thus  exhibiting 
the  phenomenon  of  a  large  stream  losing  itself.  This  remarkable  cir- 


264  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

cumstance  is  usually  ascribed  to  the  many  dry  pools  it  has  to  fill  on 
its  route,  each  of  which  must  be  overflowing  before  there  can  be  any 
farther  current;  but  this  is  hardly  sufficient  to  account  for  the  almost 
sudden  disappearance  of  a  body  of  water  sixty  feet  wide  and  two  feet 
deep,  flowing  at  the  rate  of  three  or  four  miles  per  hour.  It  would 
seem  more  probable  that  water  may  make  its  way  into  some  of  the 
vast  caverns  that  are  known  to  exist  in  this  limestone  region. 

The  population  beyond  the  Blue  Mountains  amounts  to  ten  thousand, 
and  it  is  supposed  that  there  is  little  room  for  its  farther  increase,  as 
all  the  stations  capable  of  supporting  flocks  are  now  occupied,  and  as 
there  is  little  or  no  chance  for  the  extension  of  husbandry.  Welling- 
ton Valley,  although  it  was  considered  when  first  discovered,  as  fitted 
to  be  the  granary  of  the  district,  has  disappointed  all  such  expectations; 
and  out  of  seven  harvests  which  have  occurred  since  the  missionaries 
commenced  operations  in  it,  six  have  wholly  or  partially  failed. 

According  to  Mr.  Hale,  the  number  of  languages  in  Australia  has 
been  greatly  exaggerated,  and  so  far  from  every  tribe  having,  as  has 
been  asserted,  a  separate  language,  it  appears  that  within  the  colony, 
or  from  Port  Macquarie  on  the  north  to  Port  Philip  on  the  south,  and 
extending  one  hundred  miles  beyond  Wellington  to  the  west,  com- 
prising one-tenth  of  the  whole  continent,  only  six,  or  at  most,  eight 
dialects  are  spoken,  and  that  these  are  so  similar  in  words  and  gram- 
matical construction  as  to  place  their  identity  of  origin  beyond  a  doubt. 
From  some  vocabularies  of  the  language  spoken  at  Swan  river,  it 
appears  that  this  similarity  of  words  extends  over  the  entire  breadth 
of  the  continent.  On  the  other  hand,  at  Port  Essington  and  Melville 
Island,  on  the  northern  coast,  though  the  distance  is  not  so  great,  the 
dialect  is  represented  as  quite  different,  notwithstanding  the  physical 
characteristics,  habits,  and  customs,  are  said  to  be  similar  to  those  of 
the  other  aborigines.  It  is  not  believed,  however,  that  the  difference 
is  as  great  as  has  been  represented,  and  farther  researches,  it  is 
thought,  will  prove  the  accounts  of  it  to  have  been  exaggerated.  The 
language  differs  radically  from  that  of  the  Malay  tribes,  being  highly 
artificial  in  its  construction,  abounding  in  consonanted  sounds,  and 
remarkable  for  the  number  and  variety  of  its  grammatical  inflexions. 
The  verbal  modifications  are  as  numerous  and  comprehensive  as  in 
the  American  languages,  but  the  manner  of  inflecting  is  different:  the 
root  or  radical  verb  (which  is  usually  a  monosyllable)  is  placed  first, 
and  to  this  the  various  inflexions  or  modifying  syllables  are  attached, 
until  they  protract  the  word  to  an  extraordinary  length.  Thus,  in  the 
word  Bumarce,  I  strike,  (Bu  or  Bum  being  the  root.)  Then  comes 
bumal-guaim,  I  have  struck ;  bumal-gurani,  I  struck  yesterday ;  bumal 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  265 

girri,  I  shall  strike;  bumalugidyillinga,  I  strike  myself;  bumallanna, 
we  two  strike  each  other ;  bumalalinga,  I  strike  again ;  bumalrnam- 
blina,  I  permit  to  strike  again;  bumabumara,  I  continue  striking; 
bumalngarriawagirri,  I  shall  strike  to-morrow ;  and  finally,  bumal- 
bumalalimambilngarriawagirri,  I  shall  permit  to  continue  striking 
again  to-morrow.  Those  who  are  desirous  of  farther  information, 
relative  to  this  language,  are  referred  to  the  results  of  the  Philological 
department. 

Mr.  Peale  made  a  journey  into  the  interior,  in  the  direction  of 
Argyle,  passing  through  Liverpool,  and  visiting  Camden,  Clifton,  and 
Strathara.  The  last  two  were  the  country-seats  of  gentlemen.  Clifton 
is  the  residence  of  James  M' Arthur,  Esq.,  who  possesses  a  large  estate 
in  its  neighbourhood.  Mr.  M'Arthur,  father  of  the  present  owner, 
was  the  first  who  introduced  sheep  into  this  country.  The  facts  con- 
nected with  this  transaction,  as  related  to  me  at  Sydney,  are  as 
follows:  Captain  M'Arthur,  about  the  year  1797,  had  procured  three 
rarns  and  five  ewes  from  Captain  Kent,  R.  N.,  who  brought  them 
from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  They  were  of  Spanish  blood,  and 
had  been  sent  out  by  the  Dutch  government  to  that  colony.  Captain 
M'Arthur  soon  found  by  experience,  that  his  ideas  as  to  the  fitness  of 
the  country  for  the  support  of  this  animal,  had  not  been  too  extra- 
vagant. 

In  1803,  he  visited  England,  and  there  made  a  statement,  which 
was  communicated  to  the  government,  a  copy  of  which  will  be  found 
in  Appendix  XXIII. 

In  consequence  of  this  statement,  Captain  M'Arthur's  plans  were 
investigated  by  a  committee  of  the  Privy  Council — at  whose  meetings 
he  w  as  present — and  were  recommended  to  be  adopted.  Some  sheep 
were  supplied  from  the  flock  of  George  IIF.,  and  with  them  he  embarked 
shortly  for  New  South  Wales,  on  board  the  "  Argo,"  which  vessel  was 
so  named  by  himself  in  reference  to  the  freight  she  bore. 

The  government  having  granted  him  a  large  tract  of  land,  in  what 
was  termed  in  the  colony  the  Cow  Pastures,  he,  in  gratitude  for  the 
assistance  he  had  received,  named  it  Camden,  after  the  distinguished 
nobleman  who  had  befriended  him,  and  who  was  then  presiding  over 
the  Colonial  Department.  This  is  now  a  princely  estate,  with  a 
magnificent  mansion  and  grounds.  The  land  attached  to  it  contains 
thirty  thousand  acres  on  the  Upham  river.  About  the  lawns  of  this 
mansion,  magnolias  and  other  trees  of  North  America  flourish  by  the 
side  of  the  Acacia  pendula,  &c.,  and  plants  indigenous  to  the  Australian 
mountains.  In  the  garden  are  found  figs,  peaches,  pears,  plums,  and 
small  fruits  in  the  greatest  profusion  and  of  the  finest  quality,  besides 

VOL.  ii.  34 


206  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

mulberries,  grapes,  pine-apples,  oranges,  &c.,  growing  in  the  open  air 
The  grounds  are  in  beautiful  order,  and  their  reputation  deservedly 
great  in  the  colony. 

Liverpool  is  a  small  town  in  this  neighbourhood,  fifteen  miles  from 
Paramatta,  to  the  westward.  The  government  has  here  a  large 
hospital  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Hill,  to  whose  kindness  and  atten- 
tion Mr.  Peale  was  much  indebted.  This  institution  is  open  to  the 
disabled  and  sick  of  all  nations;  is  a  large  building,  and  admirably 
kept. 

We  are  sorry  that  as  much  cannot  be  said  for  the  "Wheelwright 
Arms,"  at  Liverpool,  and  other  hotels  in  Campbelltown :  a  larger 
supply  of  spiders,  flies,  and  bed-bugs  is  seldom  seen,  than  that  with 
which  the  bed-rooms  swarm. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Liverpool,  a  dam  is  in  progress  at  the  head 
of  the  tide-water  of  Cook's  river,  which  empties  into  Botany  Bay. 
This  is  a  noble  work,  and  is  intended  for  the  purpose  of  giving  Sydney 
a  supply  of  water,  of  which  it  is  much  in  want.  The  work  is  performed 
entirely  at  the  expense  of  government,  and  the  water  is  led  for  a  long 
distance  by  tunnel. 

While  at  Clifton,  Mr.  Peale  made  an  excursion  along  the  meander- 
ing course  of  the  Nepean  river.  He  was  much  surprised  at  the 
productions  of  the  soil,  although  these  were  apparently  every  where 
deficient  of  moisture;  and  also  at  the  singular  notes  of  the  birds, 
particularly  the  quaint  and  varied  jargon  of  the  Dacelo  gigantea, 
called  in  the  country,  the  "  Laughing  Jackass."  This  is  an  instance 
of  the  ridiculous  misapplication  of  names  in  this  country ;  for,  besides 
belonging  to  a  different  class  of  the  animal  kingdom,  its  notes  have 
little  or  no  resemblance  to  the  braying  of  an  ass,  and  it  feeds  upon 
a  very  different  kind  of  food,  viz.:  lizards  and  serpents.  The  bird  is 
common  in  this  part  of  the  country,  but  peculiar  to  New  South 
Wales. 

There  are  many  native  magpies,  which  have  somewhat  the  appear- 
ance of  a  crow.  This  bird  frequents  the  neighbourhood  of  houses,  and 
its  loud  and  crow-like  note  is  the  matin-call  of  the  country  residents. 
In  spite  of  its  hoarse  croak,  it  was  spoken  of  by  some  as  a  fine  singing 
bird. 

The  wallaby,  the  smallest  species  of  kangaroo,  is  common  here,  as 
well  as  numerous  opossums.  On  reaching  the  Wallondilly  river,  the 
[tarty  stopped  to  hunt  the  Ornithorhynchus,  which  once  abounded  there, 
and  succeeded  in  obtaining  specimens,  although  with  much  difficulty. 
Proceeding  on,  they  reached  Strathara,  the  seat  of  Achlan  M'Alister, 
Esquire,  to  whose  kind  attentions  the  whole  squadron  are  much  indebted. 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  267 

His  property  contains  about  sixteen  thousand  acres  of  the  most  fertile 
land  in  the  colony.  The  soil  is  composed  of  decomposed  trap  rock, 
and  has  the  appearance  of  a  rich  chocolate-coloured  mould,  which 
retains  the  moisture  well.  The  timber  which  grows  upon  it  is  closer 
and  heavier  than  in  the  sandstone  districts:  it  is  principally  Eucalyptus 
of  several  species.  The  grass  is  thinly  spread  over  the  ground,  and 
the  cattle  and  sheep  require  a  great  range.  One  sheep  to  an  acre  is 
the  allotment,  and  even  in  this  proportion  they  suffer  in  dry  seasons. 
There  are  no  running  streams  of  water  on  this  estate;  but,  as  has  been 
remarked,  the  pools  are  numerous,  a  most  happy  circumstance  for  the 
country,  for  from  these  alone  can  the  cattle  be  supplied.  Argyle  is 
the  only  place  where  springs  were  seen  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and 
they  are  scanty.  The  crops  of  wheat  were  unusually  good,  but  they 
were  the  first  that  had  been  collected  for  three  years. 

The  variety  of  birds  seen  here,  and  the  brilliancy  of  their  plumage, 
are  characteristic  of  Australia.  All  the  birds  are  remarkable  for  the 
closeness  of  their  plumage,  and  the  neatness  of  their  form ;  many  of 
the  species  are  peculiar  to  Australia,  and  are  more  nearly  allied  to 
those  of  the  western  part  of  the  Indian  Archipelago  than  of  any  other 
region.  Even  this  analogy  is  extremely  limited.  Many  of  the  Aus- 
tralian species  are  said  to  be  confined  to  peculiar  districts,  which  they 
only  leave  on  emergency,  from  want  of  food,  &c. 

Mr.  Coxen,  near  Peuen  Beuen,  informed  our  gentlemen  that  several 
birds  had  made  their  appearance  around  his  dwelling  that  season,  that 
were  not  known  within  a  hundred  miles  of  his  place  before.  From  the 
little  that  is  known  of  the  ornithology  of  the  rest  of  New  Holland,  it 
seems  that  the  same  general  character  prevails  throughout  the  whole 
continent,  and  there  are  grounds  for  believing  that  there  is  a  complete 
diversity  in  the  species  from  those  of  New  Guinea.  As  an  instance  of 
this,  it  may  be  stated  that  none  of  the  paradise-birds,  so  common  in  the 
islands  to  the  north,  have  been  found  in  Australia ;  and  what  appears  to 
add  strength  to  this  opinion,  is  the  fact  that  the  land  birds  of  Norfolk 
Island  are  all  known  to  be  peculiar. 

The  number  of  parrots  that  are  seen  is  very  great.  They  usually 
occupy  the  tops  of  trees,  and  are  remarkable  for  the  rapidity  of  their 
flight,  particularly  a  green  species,  little  larger  than  a  humming-bird, 
with  which  the  trees  occasionally  swarm.  Other  birds,  hardly  known 
to  the  ornithologist,  are  also  numerous ;  but  Mr.  Gould,  who  is  eminent 
in  that  department  of  natural  history,  is  now  engaged  in  making  col- 
lections, and  will  probably,  ere  long,  give  a  full  account  of  the  habits 
and  economy  of  the  Australian  birds. 

The  Australian  wood-pecker  is  the  famous  bill-bird  whose  note  is 


208  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

always  hailed  with  joy  by  the  traveller  in  there  arid  regions,  as  a  sign 
of  the  vicinity  of  water.  The  sound  resembles  the  click  of  a  stone- 
hammer,  and  the  effect  of  the  united  notes  of  several,  is  similar  to  the 
frog  concerts  of  our  springs.  According  to  Mr.  Coxen,  each  bird 
utters  a  single  note. 

It  was  remarked  that  the  native  animals  of  Australia  are  fast  disap- 
pearing. The  kangaroo,  once  so  numerous,  is  now  seldom  seen;  but 
the  native  dog  still  commits  ravages  among  the  sheep.*  Some  of  the 
animals  which  have  become  rare  are  preserved  in  the  Sydney  Museum  ; 
among  these  are  the  woombat  (Cheropus),  and  the  Ornithorhynchus,  in 
relation  to  which  so  many  questions  have  been  raised.  Snakes  of  many 
kinds  still  abound,  even  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Sydney,  whose 
bite  is  said  to  be  fatal,  and  which  is  of  course  much  dreaded.  The 
stories  that  are  related  of  such  poisonous  bites,  and  the  dread  of  them 
that  animals  show,  make  those  who  wander  through  the  paths  ex- 
tremely cautious,  particularly  as  their  small  size  and  grassy  colour 
render  them  difficult  to  be  seen. 

Among  the  distinguished  gentlemen  of  the  colony,  to  whose  hospi- 
tality our  naturalists  were  indebted,  is  John  Blaxland,  Esq.,  who  resides 
at  Newington,  on  the  river,  near  Paramatta.  The  ladies  of  his  family 
are  in  possession  of  a  handsome  hortus  siccus  of  native  plants,  collected 
and  prepared  by  themselves. 

A  part  of  this  gentleman's  estate  consists  of  extensive  salt-works, 
formed  by  drawing  the  tide-water  from  the  river  into  ponds.  In  these 
it  is  evaporated  as  much  as  possible  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  is 
afterwards  boiled.  The  quantity  of  salt  made  at  these  works  during 
the  preceding  year  (1838)  was  one  thousand  tons.  About  seventy 
assigned  servants  (convicts)  are  employed  in  the  manufacture. 

The  water  of  the  ocean  is  far  from  being  the  only  source  of  this 
necessary  of  life  in  Australia.  Salt  springs  are  abundant,  and  almost 
all  the  wells,  particularly  those  of  the  sandstone  region,  are  said  to 
afford  only  brackish  water.  The  small  streamlets,  and  in  dry  seasons 
even  the  rivers,  are  found  to  be  salt;  and  there  is  hardly  a  traveller  or 
navigator,  but  has  given  an  account  of  his  disappointment  in  finding 
salt  water,  when  every  indication  gave  the  promise  of  fresh. 

Major  Mitchell  attributes  the  occasional  saltness  of  the  Darling 
river,  to  salt  springs,  or  to  its  passing  through  beds  of  rock  salt.  This 
river,  as  has  been  stated,  has  no  tributary  for  more  than  six  hundred 
miles,  and  has  at  times  little  or  no  current ;  and  it  is  where  the  stream 
has  no  sensible  motion,  that  the  saltness  is  most  marked.  The  salt 

*  The  natives  had  never  attempted  to  domesticate  the  dog,  and  all  of  the  species  found, 
when  the  country  was  colonized,  were  wild. 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  269 

appears  to  cover  but  a  small  area  at  any  one  place,  and  it  has  been 
observed  that  within  short  distances  of  each  other,  fresh  and  salt 
rivulets  may  be  seen,  pursuing  the  same  direction,  and  each  retaining 
its  character  throughout  its  whole  course. 

The  lakes  in  the  eastern  section  of  Australia  are  also  nearly  all 
either  salt  or  brackish.  Lake  George,  situated  beyond  Goulburn,  near 
the  source  of  the  Yass  river,  which  empties  into  the  Morrumbidgee,  is 
the  largest  of  these  lakes.  It  is  at  present  only  five  or  six  miles  in 
length,  by  about  four  in  width,  although  according  to  unquestionable 
authority,  it  was,  within  twelve  or  fourteen  years,  sixteen  miles  long  by 
twelve  wide.  Lake  Bathurst,  which  is  not  far  distant  from  Lake 
George,  has  also  undergone  a  similar  diminution.  In  the  latter  lake 
there  are  to  be  seen  stumps  of  trees,  which  prove,  that  although  within 
a  few  years  a  considerable  lake,  and  at  present  decreasing  in  its 
extent,  it  had  at  a  former,  and  that  at  no  remote  epoch,  been  a  marsh, 
if  not  actually  dry  land.  Should  its  present  diminution  continue,  which 
must  take  place  if  the  seasons  of  drought  are  not  interrupted,  it  will  in 
a  few  years  be  again  dry  land.* 

The  facts  observed  at  these  lakes  prove  in  the  most  conclusive 
manner  the  very  great  irregularity  in  the  climate  of  New  South  Wales. 
It  would  appear  from  them,  that,  however  great  the  floods  now  occa- 
sionally experienced  are  considered,  those  that  have  occurred  must 
have  exceeded  them,  and  filled  the  basins  of  these  lakes,  to  such  a 
depth,  that  within  the  fifty  years  that  they  have  been  known,  the 
excess  of  evaporation  has  not  been  sufficient  to  restore  them  to  their 
pristine  state. 

In  conformity  with  the  condition  of  these  lakes,  many  places  now 
dry  are  pointed  out,  where,  within  the  memory  of  the  settlers,  lakes 
or  ponds  existed ;  and  near  the  course  of  streams,  grass  is  to  be  seen 
attached  to  the  trunks  of  trees  thirty  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the 
water,  which  must  have  been  lodged  there  by  very  great  floods. 

The  great  and  important  changes  that  floods  of  such  extent  and 
destructive  force  must  produce  on  the  face  of  the  country,  may  be 
imagined,  and  particularly  when  like  New  South  Wales  it  is  principally 
composed  of  soft  sandstone.  To  such  causes  may  be  ascribed  the 
numerous  coves  of  the  harbours  and  bays,  and  the  deep  ravines  which 
often  break  the  monotony  of  the  table-land.  In  relation  to  the  bays 

*  In  the  basins  of  the  salt  lakes  of  the  interior,  plants  which  grow  on  the  shores  of  the 
ocean  are  found  in  abundance  ;  as  for  instance  the  Salsola.  These  lakes  even  exceed  in 
saltness  the  waters  of  the  ocean;  those  brought  by  Major  Mitchell,  and  analyzed,  contained 
one  hundred  and  thirteen  grains  of  dry  salt  in  three  ounces  of  water;  the  specific  gravity  of 
the  water  was  from  1-0386  to  1-0553. 


270  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

and  coves,  Major  Mitchell  remarks,  that  they  generally  have  a  direc- 
tion either  from  north-northeast  to  south-southwest,  or  from  west-north- 
west to  east-southeast.  Our  geologist  observed  a  coincidence  of  the 
fissures  of  the  sandstone  rock  with  the  same  points  of  the  compass. 
This  double  and  intersecting  direction  of  the  fissures,  gives  to  portions 
of  the  rock  which  are  bare,  the  appearance  of  an  artificial  pavement 
of  enormous  blocks.  This  appearance  is  well  marked,  and  can  be 
readily  observed  in  the  variegated  layers  of  the  sandstone  cliffs  near 
the  Heads  of  Port  Jackson. 

Earthquakes  are  occasionally  felt  in  New  South  Wales.  The 
recorded  accounts  of  these  are  necessarily  imperfect ;  they,  however, 
show  that  within  the  last  fifty  years,  six  are  known  to  have  occurred, 
viz.,  on  the  22d  of  January,  1785,  the  17th  January,  1801,  the  7th 
May,  1804,  the  24th  September,  1806,  the  28th  November,  1823,  and 
the  2d  August,  1837.  That  of  28th  November,  1823,  was  also  felt  at 
Laurie's  Town,  Van  Diemen's  Land. 

As  far  as  could  be  learnt,  these  earthquakes  did  no  material  damage. 
It  may,  however,  be  inferred  from  the  nature  of  the  country,  that 
violent  commotions  have  taken  place  in  former  times.  Major  Mitchell 
has  stated,  and  the  fact  was  confirmed  by  the  personal  examination  of 
our  geologist,  Mr.  Dana,  that  an  alteration  in  the  relative  level  of  the 
sea  is  abundantly  evident  on  the  cliffs  of  the  coast. 

The  Burning  Mountain  of  Wingen  is  something  analogous  to  a 
crater,  which  it  was  not  in  the  power  of  any  of  our  parties  to  reach. 
According  to  Major  Mitchell,  it  appears  to  be  the  same  kind  of  pheno- 
menon as  that  described  by  Professor  Buckland  and  Mr.  De  la  Beche, 
'  caused  by  the  action  of  rain-water  on  iron  pyrites,  which  sets  fire  to 
the  bituminous  shale.  The  combustion  of  Wingen  extends  over  an 
area  of  about  two  miles  in  extent,  and  occurs  near  the  summit  of  a 
group  of  hills,  forming  part  of  a  low  chain  which  divides  the  valley  of 
Kingdom  Ponds  from  that  of  Page's  river.  Blue  smoke  ascends  from 
rents  and  cracks ;  the  breadth  of  the  widest  of  which  measures  about 
three  feet.  A  red  heat  appears  at  the  depth  of  about  four  fathoms,  and 
no  marks  of  any  extensive  change  appear  on  the  surface  near  these 
burning  fissures,  although  the  growth  of  large  trees  in  old  cracks  on 
the  opposite  slope  where  ignition  had  ceased,  shows  that  this  fire  had 
continued  for  a  very  considerable  time.  The  height  of  this  crater  is 
about  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  trade  of  Australia  is  greatly  on  the  increase.  Nearly  all  of  it 
centres  in  Sydney ;  and  this  will  account  for  the  rapid  rise  of  that 
city,  which  not  only  has  the  finest  port,  but  the  most  central  position 
as  respects  the  east  coast.  By  a  reference  to  the  official  documents  in 


NEWSOUTHWALES.  27 1 

the  Appendix,  from  XIV.  to  XX.,  the  rapid  increase  of  the  commerce 
of  Sydney  will  be  seen ;  but  they  give  only  an  imperfect  idea  of  the 
life  and  animation  that  this  port  exhibits,  or  of  the  bustle  attendant  on 
the  receiving  of  produce  and  forwarding  of  supplies  to  the  interior,  on 
the  arrival  of  emigrants.  The  warehouses,  and  all  works  connected 
with  this  trade,  are  of  a  durable  description.  The  number  of  vessels 
that  entered  Port  Jackson  in  1826,  was  sixty-two,  and  their  tonnage 
seventeen  thousand  one  hundred  and  seventy-eight  tons;  in  1840  they 
had  increased  to  seven  hundred  and  nine,  and  the  tonnage  to  one 
hundred  and  seventy-eight  thousand  nine  hundred  and  fifty-eight  tons. 
The  value  of  imports  in  1826  was  sixty  thousand  pounds;  in  1840,  it 
had  increased  to  three  millions  fourteen  thousand  one  hundred  and 
eighty-nine  pounds.  That  of  exports,  in  1826,  was  one  hundred  and 
six  thousand  six  hundred  pounds ;  in  1840,  they  amounted  to  one 
million  three  hundred  and  ninety-nine  thousand  six  hundred  and 
ninety-two  pounds. 

It  will  also  be  seen  that  in  the  return  of  vessels  built  and  registered 
in  1822,  there  were  but  three,  of  only  one  hundred  and  sixty-three 
tons;  in  1840,  one  hundred  and  eleven  vessels,  the  amount  of  whose 
tonnage  was  thirteen  thousand  three  hundred  and  forty-nine  tons. 

But  the  most  remarkable  increase  is  in  the  exportation  of  wool, 
which  in  1822  was  only  one  hundred  and  seventy-two  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  eighty  pounds,  while  in  1840  it  amounted  to  eight  millions 
six  hundred  and  ten  thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy-five  pounds. 
This  is  not  the  only  instance,  for  a  greater  or  less  increase  has  oc- 
curred in  all  the  productions  of  the  colony.  The  quantity  of  timber 
exported  forms  also  no  inconsiderable  item.  The  returns  are  referred 
to  as  showing  it,  in  Appendix  XXII. 

The  fisheries  begin  to  claim  attention,  and  in  particular  the  whale- 
fishery,  as  it  requires  comparatively  a  small  capital,  and  the  returns 
are  quickly  realized.  The  operations  of  this  fishery  are  conducted 
with  great  success,  a  ready  market  being  found  at  Sydney,  and  the 
great  saving  by  arriving  on  and  returning  from  their  cruising-grounds 
without  loss  of  time,  adds  greatly  to  their  gains.  They  are,  however, 
not  as  adroit  in  the  pursuit  of  these  treasures  as  our  own  countrymen ; 
their  vessels  are  sailed  at  greater  expense,  and  the  officers  and  crews 
less  enterprising.  The  value  of  this  trade  and  its  yearly  increase  is 
exhibited  in  the  official  returns,  by  which  it  appears  that  in  1830, 
fifty-nine  thousand  four  hundred  and  seventy-one  pounds  were  derived 
from  it,  while  in  1840  it  amounted  to  two  hundred  and  twenty-four 
thousand  one  hundred  and  forty-four  pounds.  I  heard  many  com- 
plaints that  our  whalers  were  in  the  habit  of  taking  whales  and 


272  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

obtained  much  of  their  oil  in  the  bays  on  the  western  coast  of  New 
Holland ;  and  the  remark  was  made,  that  if  the  colonists  were  not 
brought  into  collision  with  the  Yankees,  they  would  succeed  well 
enough.  This,  I  suppose,  may  be  considered  as  complimentary  to 
the  energy  and  skill  of  this  enterprising  portion  of  our  citizens.  The 
whales  are  reported  to  be  fast  leaving  their  old  haunts,  in  consequence 
of  being  disturbed  in  their  calving  season,  and  the  places  where  they 
used  to  abound  are  now  only  the  resort  of  a  few.  It  is,  therefore,  sup- 
posed they  are  abandoning  the  waters  of  New  Holland  for  other  seas, 
where  they  are  less  disturbed. 

There  is  now  a  large  export  of  salted  provisions  from  the  colony, 
which  are  well  prepared,  and  there  is  a  considerable  trade  with  the 
Mauritius  and  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope ;  the  former  supplying  sugar, 
&c.,  in  return  for  the  cattle  and  produce  of  the  dairy ;  while  from  the 
latter  wine  is  imported  in  considerable  quantities,  and  other  spirits  to  a 
large  amount,  as  has  been  already  noticed. 

The  declared  value  of  exports  of  British  and  Irish  produce  and 
manufactures  to  New  South  Wales,  for  the  year  ending  January  5lh, 
1840,  was  one  million  four  hundred  and  forty  thousand  four  hundred 
and  forty  pounds;  and  of  foreign  and  colonial  produce,  two  hundred 
and  eighty-nine  thousand  and  seventy-two  pounds.  In  return  for 
which  the  colony  sent  back,  in  1839,  six  millions  eight  hundred  and 
ninety-four  thousand  eight  hundred  and  sixty-eight  pounds  of  wool, 
besides  twenty-three  thousand  barrels  of  oil. 

The  number  of  vessels  employed  with  passengers  was  four  hundred 
and  sixteen,  measuring  forty-eight  thousand  nine  hundred  and  eleven 
tons. 

The  export  of  wool  during  1840  was  nearly  one  million  pounds  of 
wool  more ;  the  increase  in  the  number  of  sheep  in  the  colony  during 
late  years  has  been  very  great.  In  1796,  eight  years  after  the  colony 
was  established,  they  numbered  one  thousand  five  hundred  and  thirty- 
one  ;  in  1805,  six  thousand  seven  hundred  and  fifty-seven;  in  1821, 
one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  ;  and  in  1839,  three  millions. 

There  will  also  be  found  in  Appendix  XIV.,  an  official  abstract, 
showing  the  assets,  liabilities,  capital,  and  profits  of  the  banks  of  the 
colony,  by  which  it  appears  that  the  rate  of  interest  derived  from 
investment  amounts  to  eleven  and  a  half  per  cent,  for  the  year  1841. 
Business  is  almost  done  entirely  on  credit,  and  large  discounts  are 
made  by  the  banks  for  the  accommodation  of  merchants. 

The  seal-fishery  on  this  coast  was  formerly  very  successful ;  but  in 
consequence  of  the  immense  numbers  that  were  destroyed  without 
regard  to  season,  they  have  been  almost  exterminated,  or  driven  to 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  373 

new  haunts.  The  seal-fishery,  which  has  heretofore  yielded  so  large 
an  amount  of  wealth,  will  soon  be  at  an  end  in  this  quarter  of  the 
world. 

It  frequently  happens  that  owing  to  the  failure  of  the  harvests,  the 
colony  is  under  great  distress  for  provisions,  Government  is  erecting 
deposits  for  grain,  in  order  to  obviate  this  difficulty  ;  one  of  which  is 
on  an  island  in  the  harbour  of  Port  Jackson.  Heretofore,  on  a  failure 
of  the  crops,  large  quantities  of  flour  have  been  imported  from  France 
and  America,  and  many  cargoes  of  wheat  and  rice  from  India. 

The  commerce  with  the  United  States  is  very  limited,  and  confined 
as  yet  to  a  single  house,  in  Salem,  Massachusetts,  which  has  a  few 
vessels  employed  in  bringing  out  flour,  tobacco,  furniture,  ice,  &c.  In 
exchange,  wool  and  hides  have  been  taken  to  the  United  States.  This 
trade  has  hitherto  been  profitable ;  but  the  uncertainty  of  crops,  and 
consequent  fluctuation  in  the  market,  would,  with  competition,  render 
it  of  no  great  advantage. 

The  Library,  and  Sydney  Museum  are  creditable  institutions,  parti- 
cularly the  latter,  which  contains  a  large  and  interesting  collection  of 
native  productions.  It  has  only  been  established  a  few  years.  There 
is  a  reading-room  attached  to  the  Library,  in  which  are  to  be  found  all 
the  pamphlets  and  periodicals  published  in  Sydney,  and  many  of  those 
of  Europe.  Soon  after  our  arrival,  we  received  an  invitation  to  visit 
these  institutions  at  all  times;  a  privilege  which  afforded  us  much 
pleasure  and  instruction,  and  for  which  we  are  greatly  indebted  to  the 
committee  and  the  librarian. 

Great  Britain  has  three  other  colonies  in  Australia,  at  Swan  river, 
on  the  west  coast,  South  Australia  on  the  south,  and  North  Australia 
on  the  north  coast.  The  former  is  considered,  in  the  colony  of  New 
South  Wales,  as  a  bad  speculation,  arid  it  is  alleged  that  it  needs  the 
aid  of  convicts  or  slaves  for  its  advancement.  It  is  believed  that  all 
the  first  settlers,  if  not  completely  ruined,  have  been  struggling  with 
difficulties,  and  its  growth,  even  should  it  continue,  will  be  slow  and 
precarious. 

Orders  were  received  from  the  home  department  to  raise  the 
minimum  price  of  land  ;  but  it  being  left  optional  with  the  Governor, 
he  had  declined  doing  it,  under  ihe  plea  that  if  individuals  would  sell 
land  for  two  shillings  and  sixpence,  it  was  idle  to  raise  that  of  govern- 
ment to  twelve  shillings,  particularly  as  the  price  allowed  to  individuals 
for  surrendering  their  lands  was  but  one  shilling  and  sixpence.  This 
step,  of  raising  the  minimum  price  of  crown  lands,  I  was  informed, 
had  given  much  dissatisfaction,  and  was  generally  believed  to  have 
originated  in  the  desire  to  force  colonization  to  South  Australia,  which 

VOL.  ii.  35 


274  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

has  lately  increased  in  an  extraordinary  degree ;  in  1836,  its  popula- 
tion was  only  two  hundred,  and  in  1839,  eight  thousand  two  hundred 
and  fifty,  principally  owing  to  the  encouragement  held  out  by  the  funds 
derived  from  the  sale  of  lands.  Adelaide  and  Port  Lincoln  are  the 
two  principal  points,  and  the  latter,  according  to  the  accounts  of  those 
interested,  "  has  every  advantage  under  the  sun  !" 

The  journey  over  land  from  Yass  to  Adelaide,  it  is  said,  can  be 
performed  with  cattle  and  sheep  in  sixty  days.  The  schemers  here 
are  as  eager  and  enthusiastic  for  improvements  as  with  us,  and  among 
them  much  stress  is  laid  upon  the  difficulties  of  inland  transportation,  to 
overcome  which,  as  the  country  is  too  thinly  settled  for  railroads,  the 
introduction  of  camels  from  Africa  has  been  proposed ;  and  it  is 
believed  that  the  country  is  well  adapted  to  them. 

The  population  of  New  South  Wales,  by  the  census  of  1841,  in- 
cluding 2G,9G7  convicts,  was  130,850.  A  very  minute  table  of  the 
census  of  the  above  year  will  be  found  in  Appendix  XIII. 

I  was  not  able  to  obtain  any  accurate  statistical  returns  of  the  three 
other  colonies  ;  both  North  and  South  Australia  are  rapidly  increasing, 
particularly  the  latter :  fifteen  thousand  is  believed  to  be  the  total 
amount  of  their  population  and  that  of  West  Australia. 

To  return  again  to  the  squadron  and  our  occupations.  By  the  18th 
December,  I  had  finished  my  observatory  duties,  and  feeling  deeply 
sensible  of  the  great  kindness  and  attention  we  had  received  from  not 
only  the  Governor,  military,  and  civil  officers,  but  from  all  the  society, 
I  gave  a  lunch  at  Fort  Macquarie  previous  to  delivering  it  up,  and 
had  the  honour  of  entertaining  those  who  had  received  us  so  warmly. 
Although  the  weather  was  unpropitious,  many  of  our  friends  presented 
themselves ;  the  affair  passed  oft"  in  great  good-fellowship,  and  we  had 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  our  guests  retire  apparently  gratified.  Owing 
to  the  weather,  the  number  of  ladies  was  not  so  great  as  we  had 
hoped,  but  there  were  enough  to  add  dancing  to  the  other  amusements 
of  the  occasion.  Many  patriotic  toasts  were  exchanged,  and  an  effect 
seldom  witnessed  produced  on  the  company  by  the  picture  drawn  by 
the  Polish  Count  Strezleski,  (well  known  in  our  country,)  of  the  recep- 
tion his  destitute  countrymen  had  met  with  on  our  shores,  and  the 
liberality  of  our  government  in  providing  for  them.  Those  who  heard 
his  statement  will  not  soon  forget  the  thrill  it  produced. 

During  our  stay  at  Port  Jackson,  our  vessels  were  much  visited  by 
all  classes  ;  and  a  great  many  inquiries  made  respecting  our  accom- 
modations, &c.  All  seemed  disappointed  at  not  being  able  to  see  the 
same  complete  outfits  in  our  vessels  as  they  had  seen  described  in  the 
published  accounts  of  those  of  the  English  expedition  commanded  by 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  375 

Captain  James  Ross.  They  inquired,  whether  we  had  compartments 
in  our  ships  to  prevent  us  from  sinking  1  How  we  intended  to  keep  our- 
selves warm  ?  What  kind  of  antiscorbutic  we  were  to  use  1  and  where 
were  our  great  ice-saws  ?  To  all  of  these  questions  I  was  obliged  to 
answer,  to  their  great  apparent  surprise,  that  we  had  none,  and  to  agree 
with  them  that  we  were  unwise  to  attempt  such  service  in  ordinary 
cruising  vessels ;  but  we  had  been  ordered  to  go,  and  that  was  enough ! 
and  go  we  should.  This  want  of  preparation  certainly  did  not  add  to 
the  character  for  wisdom  of  our  government,  with  this  community ; 
but  they  saw  us  all  cheerful,  young,  and  healthy,  and  gave  us  the 
character,  that  I  found  our  countrymen  generally  bear,  of  recklessness 
of  life  and  limb.  The  tender  Flying-Fish  excited  their  astonishment 
more  than  the  ships,  from  her  smallness  and  peculiar  rig ;  and,  altoge- 
ther, as  a  gentleman  told  me,  most  of  our  visitors  considered  us  doomed 
to  be  frozen  to  death.  I  did  not  anticipate  such  a  fate,  although  I 
must  confess  I  felt  the  chances  were  much  against  us,  in  case  we  were 
compelled  to  winter  within  the  Antarctic.  From  every  calculation, 
we  could  not  stow  quite  twrelve  months'  provision,  even  upon  short 
allowance ;  our  fuel  was  inadequate  to  last  us  more  than  seven  months, 
and  the  means  of  protecting  ourselves  in  the  ships  for  winter  quarters, 
were  any  thing  but  sufficient.  My  mind  naturally  suffered  a  great 
deal  of  anxiety  on  all  these  points,  and  I  felt  myself  not  a  little  de- 
pressed by  it,  particularly  when  I  considered  the  state  of  the  Peacock. 
The  carpenter  of  that  ship,  shortly  after  our  arrival  at  Sydney,  had 
imported  to  her  commander,  Captain  Hudson,  that  the  whole  of  her 
upper- works  were  rotten,  and  required  a  survey.  The  vessel  was 
quietly  examined  into  without  holding  one,  and  her  state  was  found 
even  worse  than  represented.  I  had  many  long  consultations  with 
Captain  Hudson,  and  found  it  was  impossible  to  put  upon  her  the 
necessary  repairs,  without  her  giving  up  the  southern  cruise.  We 
made  up  our  minds  that  it  was  absolutely  necessary  for  the  credit  of 
the  Expedition  and  the  country  for  her  to  perform  it ;  for  we  were 
well  satisfied  that  improper  imputations  and  motives,  "would  be 
ascribed  to  us,  if  she  did  not,  and  was  detained  undergoing  repairs, 
in  a  state  of  inactivity,  during  the  season  for  operations  in  the  high 
southern  latitudes.  The  necessity  I  felt  of  subjecting  so  many  lives  in 
so  unworthy  a  ship,  caused  me  great  anxiety  during  the  whole  cruise. 
The  official  papers  forwarded  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  upon  this 
subject,  will  be  found  in  Appendix  XXI. 

All  the  vessels  underwent  the  necessary  repairs  of  calking,  &c.,  and 
the  Flying-Fish  was  furnished  with  two  new  masts  of  the  Kaurie  pine 
of  New  Zealand,  some  feet  shorter  and  larger  in  diameter  than  her 
former  ones. 


276  NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 

A  few  days  before  our  departure,  the  British  frigate  Druid,  Lord 
John  Russel,  commander,  arrived  from  England,  with  Captain  Hobson, 
R.  N.,  the  new  Governor  (under  the  name  of  consul)  for  New  Zealand. 
He  was  accompanied  by  a  large  retinue,  and  also  had  all  kinds  of  faci- 
lities for  his  permanent  and  comfortable  establishment  there,  among 
which  was  a  house  in  frame. 

The  season  of  our  visit  to  Sydney,  was  that  of  their  summer,  (De- 
cember,) and  it  was  somewhat  difficult  for  us  to  realize  the  luxuriance 
of  vegetation  about  us.  We  could  hardly  become  familiar  with  win- 
dows and  doors  entirely  open  at  Christmas  time.  Although  it  was 
properly  the  out-of-town  season,  we  found  much  gaiety  existing,  and 
we  have  great  pleasure  in  acknowledging  the  attentions  and  civilities 
extended  to  us  during  the  whole  of  our  stay. 

The  facilities  for  outfits  here  are  such  as  are  not  to  be  found  else- 
where in  the  Pacific.  The  mechanics  are  good,  but  as  artisans  are 
scarce  their  wages  are  exorbitant,  and  the  employer  is,  for  the  most 
part,  compelled  to  put  up  with  their  demands.  From  our  experience, 
we  inferred  they  are  not  to  be  depended  on,  and  require  to  be  well 
watched  to  obtain  the  requisite  quantity  of  labour  from  them.  Their 
rations  of  grog  were  always  a  stipulation  made  by  them,  and  had  to 
be  complied  with. 

During  our  stay  here,  our  men  behaved  well.  They  all  received 
leave  in  their  turn  to  visit  the  shore,  and  I  felt  gratified  in  not  having 
a  single  case  reported  to  me  of  bad  behaviour  on  shore. 

As  our  departure  drew  near,  one  and  all  of  us  felt  and  expressed 
regret  at  leaving  such  kind  friends.  In  very  many  places  and  families, 
we  had  found  ourselves  at  home,  and  were  always  received  with  that 
kindness  that  showed  us  we  were  welcome.  The  seasons,  with  many 
other  things,  may  be  reversed,  yet  the  hospitality  of  old  England  is 
found  here  as  warm  and  fresh  as  ever  it  was  in  the  parent  land.  It 
would  be  impossible  to  mention  all  those  to  whom  we  feel  indebted  for 
various  kindnesses  arid  attentions,  or  even  to  cite  those  from  whom  the 
Expedition  received  many  accessions  to  its  collections.  Notwithstand- 
ing I  have  mentioned  many  things  that  have  struck  us  as  requiring 
great  reform,  yet  the  whole  impression  left  on  my  mind  is,  that  it  is 
a  glorious  colony,  which  the  mother  country,  and  the  whole  Anglo- 
Saxon  race,  may  well  be  proud  of,  and  that  it  ought  to  claim  much 
more  attention  than  it  apparently  does,  from  the  home  government. 

After  writing  our  farewell  letters,  we  took  our  Christmas  dinner 
with  many  of  our  friends,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  26th  December, 
at  six  o'clock — the  very  day  that  had  been  set  apart  for  my  departure, 
before  sailing  from  the  United  States — we  weighed  our  anchors  and 
stood  down  the  bay.  The  day  was  fine,  the  breeze  light  and  contrary, 


NEW    SOUTH    WALES. 


277 


and  we  did  not  get  to  sea  till  the  afternoon.  When  we  were  about 
passing  the  Heads,  our  worthy  consul  and  some  others  of  our  country- 
men took  their  leave,  and  by  way  of  dispelling  the  gloom  that  was 
naturally  felt  at  parting,  and  to  show  the  good  wishes  entertained  for 
their  welfare,  we  gave  them  at  parting  several  hearty  cheers,  and  then 
bore  away  on  our  course. 

It  falling  calm,  the  Vincennes  and  tender  were  obliged  to  anchor 
between  the  Heads.  The  Peacock  and  Porpoise  succeeded  in  getting 
outside,  and  when  the  tide  made,  we  weighed  and  stood  after  them. 
On  getting  to  sea,  although  every  search  had  been  previously  made  by 
the  master-at-arms,  I  learned  that  there  were  two  strangers  on  board, 
who  had  contrived  to  evade  his  watchfulness,  and  on  beating  to 
quarters,  and  mustering  the  crew,  they  were  among  the  forthcoming. 
Their  appearance  was  any  thing  but  convict-like ;  but  I  felt  after  all 
the  attentions  heaped  upon  us,  it  was  seemingly  but  an  ungrateful 
return,  to  appear  to  have  committed  an  infraction  of  their  laws,  and 
this  after  I  had  received  intimation  that  an  attempt  would  be  made, 
through  us,  to  effect  desertion  among  the  troops.  From  their  appear- 
ance and  carriage  I  thought  they  showed  the  drill  of  soldiers,  and  at 
once  told  them  and  the  assembled  crew,  that  they  were  mistaken  if 
they  expected  to  be  harboured  as  such,  and  that  on  my  return  from  the 
south,  I  should  send  them  back  to  Sydney  to  be  delivered  over.  I 
then  entered  them  on  the  rolls  for  provisions  only,  until  I  ascertained 
whether  they  were  entitled  to  receive  compensation ;  and  after  telling 
the  men  they  must  look  forward  to  a  hard  and  dangerous  cruise,  and 
saying  a  few  words  relative  to  what  was  expected  of  them  by  the 
country  and  myself,  I  enjoined  upon  them  the  necessity  of  economy  in 
their  food  and  clothing,  in  aiding  me  in  my  endeavours  to  promote 
their  health  and  comfort.  We  then  piped  down,  and  set  about  pre- 
paring the  ship  for  the  Antarctic  cruise,  the  events  of  which  will  be 
detailed  in  the  following  chapters. 


DAISY  BANK. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


CONTENTS. 

PRELIMINARY  REMARKS  —  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  SQUADRON  TO  THE  SECOND  OF 
JANUARY— SEPARATION  OF  THE  FLYING-FISH  AND  PEACOCK— FIRST  ICEBERG  SEEN— 
FALL  IN  WITH  THE  ICY  BARRIER— PORPOISE  LOST  SIGHT  OF— PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE 
PEACOCK  FROM  THE  THIRD  OF  JANUARY— HER  VISIT  TO  MACQUARIE'S  ISLAND  — 
FIRST  ICEBERG  SEEN  BY  HER— SHE  FALLS  IN  WITH  THE  ICY  BARRIER— PROCEEDINGS 
OF  THE  PORPOISE-SEA-ELEPHANTS  SEEN  AND  TAKEN— LAND  SEEN  FROM  ALL  THE 
VESSELS— PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  VINCENNES  FROM  THE  SIXTEENTH  OF  JANUARY- 
SHE  ENTERS  A  DEEP  BAY  IN  THE  BARRIER— PEACOCK  AND  PORPOISE  SEEN— PEA- 
COCK SPOKEN  — LAND  DISTINCTLY  SEEN  FROM  THE  VINCENNES  AND  PEACOCK  — 
FIGHT  BETWEEN  A  WHALE  AND  KILLER,  SEEN  FROM  THE  PEACOCK— PROCEEDINGS 
OF  THE  PEACOCK— SOUNDINGS  OBTAINED  BY  HER— HER  PERILOUS  SITUATION  AND 
PROVIDENTIAL  ESCAPE— HER  CRIPPLED  CONDITION— CAPTAIN  HUDSON  RESOLVES  TO 
RETURN— HIS  ADMIRABLE  CONDUCT,  AND  THAT  OF  HIS  OFFICERS  AND  CREW. 


(279) 


CHAPTER    IX. 

ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

1840. 

THE  subjects  of  which  I  am  about  to  treat  in  the  following  chapters 
are  exclusively  nautical.  I  shall  therefore  adopt  in  treating  them 
more  of  the  form  of  a  log-book,  and  follow  the  daily  order  of  their 
occurrence  with  more  strictness  than  I  have  hitherto  considered 
necessary.  This  will  be  done  in  order  to  illustrate  more  fully  the  nature 
of  the  remote  regions  we  traversed,  and  for  the  purpose  of  giving  a 
more  exact  relation  of  the  incidents  of  this  part  of  our  cruise, — inci- 
dents that  I  cannot  but  hope  have  made  this  part  of  our  labours 
particularly  interesting  to  all  of  our  countrymen  who  possess  a 
feeling  of  national  pride. 

The  credit  of  these  discoveries  has  been  claimed  on  the  part  of  one 
foreign  nation,  and  their  extent,  nay,  actual  existence,  called  into  ques- 
tion by  another ;  both  having  rival  expeditions  abroad,  one  at  the  same 
time,  the  other  the  year  succeeding. 

Each  of  these  nations,  with  what  intent  I  shall  not  stop  to  inquire, 
has  seemed  disposed  to  rob  us  of  the  honour  by  underrating  the  impor- 
tance of  their  own  researches,  and  would  restrict  the  Antarctic  land  to 
the  small  parts  they  respectively  saw.  However  willing  I  might  be  in 
a  private  capacity  to  avoid  contesting  their  statements,  and  let  truth 
make  its  own  way,  I  feel  it  due  to  the  honour  of  our  flag  to  make  a 
proper  assertion  of  the  priority  of  the  claim  of  the  American  Expe- 
dition, and  of  the  greater  extent  of  its  discoveries  and  researches. 

That  land  does  exist  within  the  Antarctic  Circle  is  now  confirmed 
by  the  united  testimony  of  both  French  and  English  navigators. 
D'Urville,  the  celebrated  French  navigator,  within  a  few  days  after 
land  was  seen  by  the  three  vessels  of  our  squadron,  reports  that  his 

VOL.  ii.  36  W» 


282  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

boats  landed  on  a  small  point  of  rocks,  at  the  place  (as  I  suppose) 
which  appeared  accessible  to  us  in  Piner's  Bay,  whence  the  Vincennes 
was  driven  by  a  violent  gale  ;  this  he  called  Clarie  Land,  and  testifies 
to  his  belief  of  the  existence  of  a  vast  tract  of  land,  where  our  view  of 
it  has  left  no  doubt  of  its  existence.  Ross,  on  the  other  hand,  pene- 
trated to  the  latitude  of  79°  S.  in  the  succeeding  year,  coasted  for  some 
distance  along  a  lofty  country  connected  with  our  Antarctic  Continent, 
and  establishes  beyond  all  cavil  the  correctness  of  our  assertion,  that 
we  have  discovered,  not  a  range  of  detached  islands,  but  a  vast 
Antarctic  Continent.  How  far  Captain  Ross  was  guided  in  his  search 
by  our  previous  discoveries,  will  best  appear  by  reference  to  the  chart, 
with  a  full  account  of  the  proceedings  of  the  squadron,  which  I  sent 
to  him,  and  which  I  have  inserted  in  Appendix  XXIV.  and  Atlas. 
Although  I  have  never  received  any  acknowledgment  of  their  receipt 
from  him  personally,  yet  I  have  heard  of  their  having  reached  his 
hands  a  few  months  prior  to  his  Antarctic  cruise.  Of  this,  however,  I 
do  not  complain,  and  feel  only  the  justifiable  desire  to  maintain  the 
truth  in  relation  to  a  claim  that  is  indisputable.  The  following  narra- 
tive must,  I  feel  satisfied,  leave  no  doubt  in  any  unprejudiced  mind  of 
the  correctness  of  the  assertion  that  we  have  discovered  a  vast  conti- 
nent; but  I  would  ask  in  advance,  who  was  there  prior  to  1840,  either 
in  this  country  or  in  Europe,  that  had  the  least  idea  that  any  large 
body  of  land  existed  to  the  south  of  New  Holland  1  and  who  is  there 
that  now  doubts  the  fact,  whether  he  admits  it  to  be  a  vast  continent, 
or  contends  that  it  is  only  a  collection  of  islands  ? 

Examine  all  the  maps  and  charts  published  up  to  that  time,  and 
upon  them  will  any  traces  of  such  land  be  found?  They  will  not,  and 
for  the  very  best  of  reasons — none  was  known  or  even  suspected  to 
exist.  We  ourselves  anticipated  no  such  discovery ;  the  indications  of 
it  wrere  received  with  doubt  and  hesitation;  I  myself  did  not  venture  to 
record  in  my  private  journal  the  certainty  of  land,  until  three  days 
after  those  best  acquainted  with  its  appearance  in  these  high  latitudes 
were  assured  of  the  fact ;  and  finally,  to  remove  all  possibility  of 
doubt,  and  to  prove  conclusively  that  there  was  no  deception  in  the 
case,  views  of  the  same  land  were  taken  from  the  vessels  in  three 
different  positions,  with  the  bearings  of  its  peaks  and  promontories,  by 
whose  intersection  their  position  is  nearly  as  well  established  as  the 
peaks  of  any  of  the  islands  we  surveyed  from  the  sea. 

All  doubt  in  relation  to  the  reality  of  our  discovery  gradually  wore 
away,  and  towards  the  close  of  the  cruise  of  the  Vincennes  along  the 
icy  barrier,  the  mountains  of  the  Antarctic  Continent  became  familiar 
and  of  daily  appearance,  insomuch  that  the  log-book,  which  is  guard- 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  283 

edly  silent  as  to  the  time  and  date  of  its  being  first  observed,  now 
speaks  throughout  of  "the  land." 

After  leaving  Sydney  we  had,  until  the  31st  December,*  fine 
weather  and  favourable  winds.  We  took  advantage  of  these,  and  all 
sail  was  crowded  on  the  vessels  of  the  squadron.  At  the  above  date  we 
had  reached  the  latitude  of  43°  S. 

Under  such  circumstances,  the  usual  order  of  sailing,  in  a  line 
abreast,  was  easily  maintained,  and  the  communications  between  the 
vessels  were  frequent.  On  the  31st  of  December,  I  issued  the  sailing 
instructions  for  the  cruise,  which  will  be  found  in  Appendix  XXV. 

During  this  favourable  weather,  all  hands  were  employed  in  tighten- 
ing the  ports,  in  order  to  secure  the  interior  of  the  vessels  as  much  as 
possible  from  the  cold  and  wet,  which  were  to  be  apprehended  in  the 
region  to  which  we  wrere  bound.  For  this  purpose,  after  calking  all 
the  openings,  the  seams  were  covered  with  tarred  canvass,  over  which 
strips  of  sheet-lead  were  nailed.  The  sailors  exhibited  great  interest 
in  these  preparations,  and  studiously  sought  to  make  every  thing 
snug ;  all  useless  articles  were  stowed  away  in  the  hold,  for  we  were 
in  truth  full  to  overflowing,  and  places  at  other  times  sacred  were  now 
crowded. 

It  was  fortunate  that  the  weather  for  the  first  few  days  was  so 
favourable ;  for  so  full  was  every  place,  that  we  had  been  compelled 
to  stow  bread  in  the  launch  and  cutter,  and  this  in  bulk  ;  for  the 
quantity  was  so  much  beyond  that  which  had  been  carried  on  any 
former  occasion,  that  a  sufficient  number  of  bags  were  not  to  be  had, 
and  in  the  hurry  of  its  reception  on  board,  time  had  not  been  found  to 
provide  them.  Every  ounce  of  bread  thus  exposed  was  looked  to  with 
solicitude,  for  there  was  a  chance  that  all  of  it  might  be  needed. 

Among  other  preparations,  rough  casings  of  boards  were  built 
around  all  the  hatches,  having  doors  furnished  with  weights  and 
pulleys,  in  order  to  insure  that  they  should  not  be  left  open.  Having 
thus  provided  for  the  exclusion  of  cold  air,  I  contented  myself  with 
preparations  for  keeping  the  interior  of  the  vessel  at  a  temperature  no 
higher  than  50°.  I  deemed  this  preferable  to  a  higher  temperature,  in 
order  to  prevent  the  injurious  effects  which  might  be  produced  by 
passing  suddenly  from  below  to  the  deck.  I  conceived  it  far  more 
important  to  keep  the  air  dry  than  warm,  particularly  as  a  lower 
temperature  would  have  the  effect  of  inducing  the  men  to  take  exercise 
for  the  purpose  of  exciting  their  animal  heat. 

*  During  the  29tb,  30th,  and  31st  December,  the  sea  was  very  phosphorescent ;  tempera- 
ture 56°. 


284  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

Aware  that  warm  and  dry  clothing  was  an  object  of  the  first  im- 
portance, inspections  of  the  men's  feet  and  dress  were  held  morning 
and  evening,  in  which  the  wearing  of  a  suitable  number  of  garments 
was  insisted  upon,  as  well  as  the  greatest  personal  cleanliness.  With 
the  same  views,  the  drying-stoves  were  particularly  attended  to ;  and 
that  every  part  under  deck  might  be  effectually  and  quickly  freed  of 
-moisture,  additional  stoves  had  been  procured  at  Sydney.  Thermo- 
meters were  hung  up  in  proper  places,  and  frequently  consulted,  in 
order  by  following  their  indications  to  secure  an  equable  temperature, 
and  at  the  time  to  ascertain  when  the  use  of  stoves  might  be  dispensed 
with,  in  whole  or  in  part.  The  latter  was  an  important  consideration, 
for  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  husbanding  our  stock  of  fuel,  by 
expending  it  only  when  absolutely  necessary. 

We  also  took  advantage  of  the  fine  weather  to  bend  all  our  best 
sails,  and  to  shift  our  top-gallant  masts. 

The  1st  January  was  one  of  those  days,  which  are  termed,  both  at 
sea  and  on  shore,  a  weather-breeder.  The  sea  was  smooth  and  placid, 
but  the  sky  was  in  places  lowering,  and  had  a  wintry  cast,  to  which 
we  had  long  been  strangers ;  the  temperature  shortly  began  to  fall, 
the  breeze  to  increase,  and  the  weather  to  become  misty.  In  a  few 
hours  we  were  sailing  rapidly  through  the  water,  with  a  rising  sea, 
and  by  midnight  it  was  reported  that  the  tender  Flying-Fish  was 
barely  visible.  I  shortened  sail,  but  it  was  difficult  to  stop  our  way ; 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  2d  of  January,  the  fog  was  dense,  and  the 
Peacock  and  Porpoise  only  were  in  sight ;  we  hove-to,  and  the  Pea- 
cock and  Porpoise  were  ordered  to  stand  east  and  west,  in  order  to 
intercept  the  tender,  but  they  returned  without  success  ;  we  also  fired 
guns  in  hopes  of  being  heard.  In  the  afternoon,  I  deemed  it  useless  to 
wait  any  longer  for  her,  and  that  I  must  take  the  chance  of  falling  in 
with  her  at  Macquarie  Island,  our  first  appointed  place  of  rendezvous, 
— a  visit  to  which  I  had  flattered  myself  might  have  been  avoided,  but 
which  it  became  necessary  now  to  make.  We  accordingly  proceeded 
on  our  course  for  that  island,  with  all  sail  set.  This  separation  of  the 
tender  took  place  in  the  latitude  of  48°  S.,  and  she  was  not  again  seen 
until  our  return.  The  officers  and  crew  were  not  slow  in  assigning  to 
the  Flying-Fish  a  similar  fate  with  her  unfortunate  mate,  the  Sea-Gull. 
Men-of-war's  men  are  prone  to  prognosticate  evil,  and  on  this  occasion 
they  were  not  wanting  in  various  surmises.  Woful  accounts  were 
soon  afloat  of  the  distress  the  schooner  was  in  when  last  seen, — and 
this  in  quite  a  moderate  sea. 

The  barometer  now  began  to  assume  a  lower  range,  and  the  tem- 
perature to  fall  below  50°.  On  the  3d,  the  fog  continuing  very  thick, 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  285 

the  Peacock  got  beyond  hearing  of  our  horns,  bells,  drums,  and  guns, 
and  was  parted  with.  This,  however,  I  did  not  now  regret  so  much, 
as  it  was  of  little  consequence  whether  we  sought  one  or  two  vessels 
at  our  rendezvous,  although  it  might  cause  a  longer  detention  there. 

The  wind  was  now  (5th  January)  veering  rapidly  to  the  northwest, 
with  some  thunder  and  lightning,  and  we  in  consequence  expected  the 
wind  to  haul  to  the  southwest,  but  to  my  surprise,  it  went  back  to  the 
northeast,  with  thick  rainy  weather.  This  return  of  the  wind  to  its 
old  quarter  followed  a  fall  of  the  barometer  to  29-60  in.,  and  in  a  few 
hours  afterwards  to  29-30  in.,  while  the  weather  continued  moderate ; 
a  large  number  of  albatrosses,  Port  Egmont  hens,  and  petrels,  were 
seen. 

For  the  last  few  days  we  were  unable  to  get  any  observations,  but 
on  the  6th  we  were  favoured  with  a  sight  of  the  sun,  and  found  our- 
selves in  the  latitude  of  53°  30'  S.,  and  longitude  157°  35'  E.  Our 
variation  had  increased  to  fifteen  and  a  half  degrees  easterly.  This 
being  a  fine  day,  we  completed  our  calking,  and  the  more  effectual 
securing  of  the  ship.  At  midnight  we  were  about  fifty  miles  from 
Macquarie  Island. 

The  morning  of  the  7th  was  misty,  with  squally  weather.  A  heavy 
sea  rising,  and  a  strong  gale  setting  in,  we  lost  sight  of  the  Porpoise 
for  a  few  hours.  Being  unable  to  see  beyond  an  eighth  of  a  mile,  it 
was  thought  imprudent  to  run,  for  fear  of  passing  the  island,  and  we 
hove-to  to  await  its  moderating.  It  cleared  at  noon,  and  we  obtained 
an  observation,  by  which  we  found  ourselves  in  latitude  54°  20'  S , 
and  longitude  160°  47'  E.  I  found  that  we  had  been  carried  to  the 
eastward  upwards  of  twenty  miles  in  less  than  eighteen  hours ;  this, 
with  the  wind  hauling  to  the  southwest,  brought  us  to  leeward  of  the 
island,  and  the  sea  and  wind  increasing,  I  saw  it  was  useless  to 
attempt  to  reach  it  without  great  loss  of  time.  I  therefore  bore  oft" 
to  the  southward  for  our  second  rendezvous,  Emerald  Island,  or  its 
supposed  locality. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th,  the  wind,  which  continued  from  the 
same  quarter,  with  heavy  cumulous  clouds,  began  to  moderate,  and 
we  were  enabled  to  make  more  sail.  By  our  observations,  we  found 
a  current  setting  to  the  southeast,  of  one  mile  an  hour.  Our  longitude 
was  162°  13'  E.,  latitude  55°  38'  S.  The  barometer  stood  at  30-00  in. ; 
the  temperature  had  fallen  to  38°  ;  and  this  change,  on  account  of  the 
rawness  of  the  air,  was  much  felt  by  the  crew. 

During  the  9th  we  passed  the  site  of  Emerald  Isle,  situate,  as  has 
been  stated,  in  latitude  57°  15'  S.,  and  longitude  162°  30'  E.,  but  saw 
nothing  of  it,  nor  any  indications  of  land,  which  I  therefore  infer  does 


28G  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

not  exist  in  the  locality  \vhere  it  is  laid  down.  We  again  experienced 
the  southeast  current  of  twenty  miles  a  day.  Our  variation  had  in- 
creased to  twenty-two  degrees  easterly.  Making  our  course  with  all 
sail  set,  the  Porpoise  in  company,  we  passed  to-day  some  pieces  of 
kelp.  The  temperature  continued  at  38°.  Numerous  flocks  of  gray 
petrels  around  us. 

The  10th  we  encountered  the  first  iceberg,  and  the  temperature  of 
the  water  fell  to  32°.  We  passed  close  to  it,  and  found  it  a  mile  long, 
and  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  height.  We  had  now  reached  the 
latitude  of  01°  08'  S.,  and  longitude  162°  32'  E.  The  current  to-day 
set  in  the  same  direction  as  before,  about  half  a  mile  per  hour.  The 
second  iceberg  seen  was  thirty  miles,  and  the  third  about  fifty-five 
miles  south  of  the  first.  These  ice-islands  were  apparently  much 
worn  by  the  sea  into  cavities,  exhibiting  fissures  as  though  they  were 
ready  to  be  rent  asunder,  and  showed  an  apparent  stratification,  much 
inclined  to  the  horizon.  The  weather  now  became  misty,  and  we  had 
occasionally  a  little  snow.  I  congratulated  myself  that  we  had  but 
few  on  the  sick-list,  and  all  were  in  high  spirits  at  the  novelty  of  the 
cruise.  We  continued  to  meet  icebergs  of  different  heights,  some  of 
which,  though  inclined  to  the  horizon,  had  a  plane  upper  surface. 

llth.  The  fair  wind  from  the  northwest,  (accompanied  with  a  light 
mist,  rendering  objects  on  the  horizon  indistinct,)  still  enabled  us  to 
pursue  our  course  southerly.  Icebergs  became  so  numerous  as  to 
compel  us  occasionally  to  change  our  course.  They  continued  of  the 
same  character,  with  caverns  worn  in  their  perpendicular  sides,  and 
with  flat  tops,  but  the  latter  were  now  on  a  line  with  the  horizon. 
Towards  6  p.  M.,  we  began  to  perceive  smaller  pieces  of  ice,  some  of 
which  were  not  more  than  an  eighth  of  a  mile  in  length,  floating  as  it 
were  in  small  patches.  As  the  icebergs  increased  in  number,  the  sea 
became  smoother,  and  there  was  no  apparent  motion.  Between  8  and 
9  p.  M.,  a  low  point  of  ice  was  perceived  ahead,  and  in  a  short  time 
we  passed  within  it.  There  was  now  a  large  bay  before  us.  As  the 
vessels  moved  rapidly,  at  10£  P.  M.  we  had  reached  its  extreme  limits, 
and  found  our  further  progress  entirely  stopped  by  a  compact  barrier 
of  ice,  enclosing  large  square  icebergs.  The  barrier  consisted  of 
masses  closely  packed,  and  of  every  variety  of  shape  and  size.  We 
hove-to  until  full  daylight.  The  night  was  beautiful,  and  every  thing 
seemed  sunk  in  sleep,  except  the  sound  of  the  distant  and  low  rustling 
of  the  ice,  that  now  and  then  met  the  ear.  We  had  now  reached  the 
latitude  of  G4°  11'  S.,  longitude  164°  30'  E.,  and  found  our  variation 
twenty-two  degrees  easterly.  One  and  all  felt  disappointed,  for  we  had 
flattered  ourselves  that  the  way  was  open  for  further  progress  to  the 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  287 

southward,  and  had  imbibed  the  impression  (from  the  extraordinary 
weather  we  had  had  at  Sydney,  and  the  reports  of  icebergs  having 
been  seen  farther  to  the  northward  than  usual,  by  all  the  vessels 
arriving)  that  the  season  would  be  an  open  one.  What  surprised  me 
most  was  a  change  in  the  colour  of  the  water  to  an  olive-green,  and 
some  faint  appearances  resembling  distant  land ;  but  as  it  was  twilight, 
and  I  did  not  believe  the  thing  credible,  I  put  no  faith  in  these  indica- 
tions, although  some  of  the  officers  were  confident  they  were  not 
occasioned  by  icebergs.  The  barometer  stood  at  29-200  in. ;  the  tem- 
perature of  the  air  33°,  water  32°.  We  lay-to  until  four  o'clock.  As 
it  grew  light,  on  the  12th,  a  fog  set  in  so  thick  that  we  lost  sight  of  the 
Porpoise,  and  could  not  hear  any  answer  to  our  signals.  I  therefore 
determined  to  work  along  the  barrier  to  the  westward. 

We  were  all  day  beating  in  a  thick  fog,  with  the  barrier  of  ice  close 
to  us,  and  occasionally  in  lacking  brought  it  under  our  bow ;  at  other 
times  we  were  almost  in  contact  with  icebergs.  During  the  whole 
day  we  could  not  see  at  any  time  further  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and 
seldom  more  than  the  ship's  length.  The  fog,  or  rather  thick  mist, 
was  forming  in  ice  on  our  rigging.  From  the  novelty  of  our  situation, 
and  the  excitement  produced  by  it,  we  did  not  think  of  the  danger. 

I  shall  now  leave  the  Vincennes  and  Porpoise  pursuing  their  course 
to  the  westward  with  a  head  wind,  and  bring  the  Peacock  up  to  the 
barrier. 

Previously  to  parting  company  on  the  3rd  of  January,  the  crew  of 
that  ship  had  also  been  engaged  in  building  hurricane-houses,  calking, 
and  chintzing,  to  secure  them  from  the  wet  and  cold.  After  parting 
company,  Captain  Hudson  immediately  steered  for  the  first  rendezvous, 
Macquarie  Island,  and  was  more  fortunate  than  we  were  in  reaching 
it,  although  the  Peacock  had  experienced  the  same  kind  of  weather 
that  we  had,  and  currents  setting  to  the  eastward. 


MACQUARIE  ISLAND. 


On  approaching  the  island,  they  discovered  large  patches  of  kelp, 
and  saw  numerous  procellaria  and  albatrosses  about  the  ship.  On  the 
10th  of  January  they  made  the  island,  and  observed  a  reef  of  rocks 
extending  three  quarters  of  a  mile  off  its  south  end.  Passing  within 
a  short  distance  of  it,  they  did  not  observe  any  of  the  signals  of  the 


288  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

squadron  flying  as  they  had  anticipated.  They,  notwithstanding,  stood 
in,  lowered  a  boat,  and  despatched  several  officers  to  put  up  the  signal, 
make  experiments,  and  collect  specimens.  The  boat  approached  an 
indentation  on  the  west  side,  too  open  to  be  called  a  bay,  and  found 
that  the  surf  was  running  high,  and  beating  with  great  violence  against 
the  rocks,  which,  together  with  the  kelp,  rendered  it  dangerous  to 
attempt  landing.  They  made  for  several  other  places  which  looked 
favourable  at  a  distance,  but  on  approaching  them,  they  were  found 
even  less  accessible.  The  boat  then  returned  to  the  first  place  to  make 
another  attempt,  which  was  attended  with  great  difficulty.  The  boat's 
anchor  was  dropped,  and  she  was  backed  in  with  great  caution  to  the 
edge  of  the  rollers ;  the  surf  was  very  high,  and  rolled  in  with  a  noise 
like  thunder,  breaking  furiously  upon  the  rocks,  so  as  to  make  the  boat 
fairly  tremble,  and  threatening  every  moment  to  overwhelm  her;  once 
or  twice  she  was  prevented  from  getting  broadside-to  by  hauling  out 
towards  her  anchor.  At  length,  after  a  dozen  fruitless  attempts,  and 
awaiting  a  favourable  opportunity,  Mr.  Eld  and  a  quarter-master 
succeeded  in  getting  ashore,  but  not  without  being  immersed  up  to 
their  breasts.  It  was  found  impossible  to  land  any  instruments ;  and 
the  quarter-master  was  despatched  to  erect  the  necessary  signals, 
while  Mr.  Eld  proceeded  to  visit  the  penguin-rookery  not  far  distant. 
On  approaching  the  island,  it  had  appeared  to  be  covered  with  white 
spots :  these  excited  conjecture ;  but  after  landing,  the  exhalations 
rendered  it  not  long  doubtful  that  it  was  birdlime. 

Mr.  Eld,  in  his  journal,  gives  the  following  account  of  his  visit: 
"  Although  I  had  heard  so  often  of  the  great  quantity  of  birds  on  the 
uninhabited  islands,  I  was  not  prepared  to  see  them  in  such  myriads 
as  here.  The  whole  sides  of  the  rugged  hills  were  literally  covered 
with  them.  Having  passed  a  deep  fissure  in  the  rocks,  I  ascended  a 
crag  that  led  to  what  I  thought  was  their  principal  roost,  and  at  every 
step  my  astonishment  increased.  Such  a  din  of  squeaking,  squalling, 
and  gabbling,  I  never  before  heard  or  dreamed  could  be  made  by  any 
of  the  feathered  tribe.  It  was  impossible  to  hear  one's  self  speak.  It 
appeared  as  if  every  one  was  vying  with  his  neighbour  to  make  the 
greatest  possible  noise.  I  soon  found  my  presence  particularly  dis- 
pleased them,  for  they  snapped  at  me  in  all  directions,  catching  hold 
of  my  trousers,  shaking  and  pinching  my  flesh  so  violently  as  to  make 
me  flinch  and  stand  upon  the  defensive.  As  wre  wanted  a  number 
of  specimens,  I  commenced  kicking  them  down  the  precipice,  and 
knocked  on  the  head  those  which  had  the  temerity  to  attack  me. 
After  having  collected  a  number,  and  a  few  eggs,  I  laid  them  aside, 
whilst  I  ascended  hkjrhcr  on  the  hill.  I  had  not  left  them  more  than 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  289 

eighteen  feet,  before  two  albatrosses  came  down,  and  commenced  pick- 
ing at  the  dead  birds  I  had  just  killed,  but  not  being  able  to  make  any 
impression  upon  them,  deliberately  picked  up  two  of  the  eggs  with 
their  beaks,  and  in  spite  of  my  efforts  to  prevent  it,  flew  away  with 
them.  The  eggs  were  about  the  size  of  a  goose's ;  the  original  colour 
seemed  to  have  been  white,  but  they  were  so  dirty  that  it  was  difficult 
to  say  with  certainty.  They  were  no  doubt  the  eggs  of  the  penguin, 
as  I  took  them  out  of  their  nest,  which  was  only  a  small  place 
scratched  in  the  earth,  just  big  enough  to  hold  one  or  two  eggs,  with 
little  or  no  grass,  sticks,  or  any  thing  else  to  form  a  nest  of.  I  after- 
wards picked  up  a  number  of  these  eggs,  and  another  was  found,  of  the 
size  of  a  hen's  egg,  white,  with  a  slight  tinge  of  green.  On  mounting 
the  hill  still  higher,  which  was  very  steep,  and  composed  of  volcanic 
rock,  loose  stones,  and  a  little  soil  mixed  with  birdlime,  I  found  that 
there  were  more  of  these  birds  than  I  anticipated.  The  nests  were 
within  two  feet  of  each  other,  with  one  or  two  young  ones  in  each ; 
one  of  the  old  ones  watching  and  sitting  on  the  nest,  whilst  the  young 
were  trying  ineffectually  to  nestle  themselves  under  the  small  wings  of 
the  old  ones.  The  appearance  of  the  young  was  not  unlike  that  of 
goslings,  being  covered  with  a  dark  thick  down. 

"  These  penguins  are  the  Eudyptes  chrysocome ;  they  are  from 
sixteen  to  twenty  inches  in  height,  with  white  breast  and  nearly  black 
back,  the  rest  being  of  a  dark  dove-colour,  with  the  exception  of  the 
head,  which  is  adorned  on  each  side  with  four  or  five  yellow  feathers, 
three  or  four  inches  long,  looking  like  graceful  plumes.  The  birds 
stand  erect  in  rows,  which  gives  them  the  appearance  of  Liliputian 
soldiers.  The  sight  was  novel  and  beautiful,  and  had  it  not  been  for 
the  gabble, — enough  to  deafen  me, — I  could  have  stayed  much  longer. 
It  \vas  now  time  to  return  to  the  boat,  when  it  occurred  to  me  that 
live  birds  wrould  be  preferable  to  the  dead ;  so  throwing  the  latter 
down,  I  seized  one  old  and  a  couple  of  young  ones,  and  with  three  or 
four  eggs  in  my  cap,  made  the  best  of  my  way  to  the  boat.  It  was 
now  found  impossible  to  hand  them  on  board,  and  not  willing  to  sur- 
render my  prize,  a  lead-line  was  thrown  me  from  the  boat,  but  did  not 
come  near  enough,  and  in  my  attempts  to  get  it,  I  was  overtaken  by  a 
sea,  and  was  thrown  violently  against  the  rocks  among  the  kelp,  and 
just  made  out  to  crawl  on  hands  and  knees  beyond  the  reach  of  the 
returning  sea,  somewhat  bruised,  wet,  and  benumbed  with  the  cold." 

At  this  juncture,  the  quarter-master  returned  with  a  large  species 
of  penguin  over  his  shoulders,  but  without  the  crown  of  feathers  on 
his  head.  He  described  a  similar  rookery,  and  also  saw  some  green 
paroquets  with  a  small  red  spot  on  the  head,  and  an  oblong  slaty  or 

VOL.  n.  37 


290  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

purple  spot  at  the  root  of  the  bill,  and  with  straight  beaks.  Mr.  Eld 
was  too  much  exhausted  to  return  with  him  to  get  specimens,  and 
the  hour  being  late,  it  was  necessary  to  return  to  the  boat,  which  had 
been  waiting  for  some  time  for  them.  The  quarter-master  succeeded 
in  getting  his  penguins  to  the  boat,  but  Mr.  Eld's  began  floundering 
about,  and  although  their  legs  were  tied,  managed  to  get  into  the 
water,  where  they  were  at  home,  and  were  soon  out  of  reach.  The 
tying  of  the  legs  did  not  seem  any  impediment  to  their  exertions  in 
the  water,  and  thus  several  interesting  specimens  of  natural  history 
were  lost,  the  trouble  that  it  cost  making  them  doubly  valuable.  With 
great  difficulty  Mr.  Eld  reached  the  boat;  for,  having  again  missed  his 
foothold,  he  fell  among  the  kelp,  but  by  the  timely  aid  of  those  on 
board  he  was  rescued.  After  an  hour's  tug  at  their  oars,  they  reached 
the  ship  in  safety.  During  their  absence  the  ship  sounded  with  a  line 
of  three  hundred  fathoms,  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  shore ;  but 
no  bottom  was  found.  The  temperature  of  the  water  at  the  surface 
was  43°,  and  at  three  hundred  fathoms  deep  39°.  The  current  was 
tried,  but  none  found. 

The  south  end  of  Macquarie  Island  lies  in  latitude  54°  44'  S.,  and 
longitude  159°  49'  E.  The  island  is  high  and  much  broken;  it  is 
apparently  covered  with  verdure,  although  a  long  tufted  rank  grass 
was  the  only  plant  seen  by  those  who  landed. 

The  highest  peak  on  the  island  is  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  feet 
high,  and  as  far  as  our  observations  extended,  it  had  neither  tree  nor 
shrub  on  it.  At  G  p.  M.  the  ship  filled  away,  and  at  eight  was  abreast 
of  the  Bishop  and  Clerk.  Macquarie  Island  affords  no  inducement  for 
a  visit,  and  as  far  as  our  examination  went,  has  no  suitable  place  for 
landing  with  a  boat.  The  only  thing  I  had  to  regret  was  not  being 
able  to  make  it  a  magnetic  station. 

On  the  llth  and  12th  nothing  particular  occurred  on  board  the  Pea- 
cock. All  sail  was  set,  and  running  to  the  southward  on  the  13th,  in 
latitude  61°  30'  S.,  longitude  161°  05'  E.,  the  first  ice-islands  were 
seen.  The  dip  was  observed  with  Lloyd's  and  Dolland's  needles,  which 
made  it  86°  53'. 

There  was  no  occasion  on  the  night  of  the  13th  to  light  the  binnacle- 
lamps,  as  newspaper  print  could  be  read  with  ease  at  midnight.  On 
the  14th,  while  still  making  much  progress  to  the  south,  and  passing 
occasionally  icebergs  and  brash  ice,  the  water  appeared  somewhat 
discoloured.  Robinson's,  Lloyd's,  and  Dolland's  needles,  gave,  the 
same  day,  in  the  cabin,  86°  37'  for  the  dip,  and  in  the  ward-room,  86° 
46'.  Albatrosses,  Cape  pigeons,  and  other  birds  about. 

On  the  15th,  they  passed  many  ice-islands.    The  weather  was  thick, 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  291 

and  snow  fell  at  intervals ;  the  wind  continued  from  the  westward. 
Many  whales  were  seen ;  albatrosses,  petrels,  and  Cape  pigeons  were 
frequent  about  the  ship.  At  4  p.  M.,  the  mist  raised  a  little,  and  to  their 
surprise  they  saw  a  perfect  barrier  of  ice,  extending  to  the  southwest, 
with  several  large  icebergs  enclosed  within  it.  Shortly  after,  they  dis- 
covered a  sail,  which  proved  to  be  the  Porpoise. 

The  Vincennes  and  Porpoise  were  left  in  our  narrative  near  the  icy 
barrier,  separated  by  the  fogs  and  mists  that  prevailed  at  times.  The 
Porpoise,  on  the  13th,  in  latitude  65°  08'  S.,  longitude  163°  E.,  disco- 
vered several  sea-elephants  on  the  ice,  and  sent  a  boat  to  capture  them, 
but  without  success.  The  current  was  tried,  and  found  to  set  west 
one-fifth  of  a  mile  per  hour.  Some  time  afterwards,  seeing  some  sea- 
elephants  near  the  edge  of  the  ice,  a  boat  was  sent,  and  succeeded  in 
capturing  a  female.  From  the  numerous  sea-elephants,  and  the  dis- 
coloration of  the  water  and  ice,  they  were  strongly  impressed  with  the 
idea  of  land  being  in  the  vicinity,  but  on  sounding  with  one  hundred 
fathoms,  no  bottom  was  found ;  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  felt 
convinced,  from  the  above  circumstances,  and  the  report  that  penguins 
were  heard,  that  land  was  near,  and  thought  he  could  discern  to  the 
southeast  something  like  distant  mountains.  A  nearer  approach  was 
impossible,  as  they  were  then  in  actual  contact  with  the  icy  barrier. 

On  the  14th,  at  3  p.  M.,  the  water  being  still  discoloured,  tried  sound- 
ings, but  found  no  bottom. 

Two  sea  elephants  were  seen  lying  motionless  on  the  ice.  On  being 
shot  at,  the  animal  would  raise  its  head  and  look  around  for  an  instant, 
and  then  resume  its  former  posture.  Boats  were  lowered,  when  they 
were  captured  and  brought  on  board :  they  proved  to  be  the  Phoca 
proboscidse.  Dr.  Holmes  examined  their  stomachs,  and  found  nothing 
but  well-digested  food.  Their  dimensions  were  as  follows  : 

Total  length 10  feet,  9  inches. 

Length  of  posterior  flipper l     «    9     » 

Breadth 2     "    4     " 

Circumference  of  largest  part  of  body     .         .        .  6     "    3     " 

This  was  a  young  female.  The  other  was  taken  afterwards;  he 
measured — 

In  length  8  feet,  6  inches. 

Greatest  circumference  behind  anterior  flipper    .  5     "    0     " 

Length  of  flippers 1     "    5     " 

Breadth  " 1     "    5     " 

On  the  15th  the  Peacock  and  Porpoise  were  in  company:  the 
specimens  of  sea-elephants  were  put  on  board  the  Peacock ;  and,  after 
having  had  communication  with  each  other,  the  vessels  again  separated, 
standing  on  opposite  tacks. 


292  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

On  the  16th  the  three  vessels  were  in  longitude  157°  40'  E.,  and  all 
within  a  short  distance  of  each  other.  The  water  was  much  disco- 
loured, and  many  albatrosses,  Cape  pigeons,  and  petrels  were  seen 
about  the  ships.  On  board  the  Vincennes,  we  sounded  with  two 
hundred  and  thirty  fathoms,  and  found  no  bottom  ;  the  water  had  the 
appearance  of  an  olive-green  colour,  as  if  but  forty  and  fifty  fathoms 
deep.  At  the  surface,  its  temperature  was  32°,  at  the  depth  sounded, 
31°.  I  should  have  tried  for  a  deeper  cast,  but  the  line  was  seen  to  be 
stranded,  when  we  were  obliged  to  stop;  we  fortunately  saved  our 
apparatus,  with  Six's  thermometers. 

On  this  day  (16th  January)  appearances  believed  at  the  time  to  be 
land  were  visible  from  all  the  three  vessels,  and  the  comparison  of  the 
three  observations,  when  taken  in  connexion  with  the  more  positive 
proofs  of  its  existence  afterwards  obtained,  has  left  no  doubt  that  the 
appearance  was  not  deceptive.  From  this  day.  therefore,  we  date  the 
discovery  which  is  claimed  for  the  squadron. 

On  board  the  Peacock,  it  appears  that  Passed  Midshipmen  Eld  and 
Reynolds  both  saw  the  land  from  the  masthead,  and  reported  it  to 
Captain  Hudson  :  he  was  well  satisfied  on  examination  that  the  appear- 
ance was  totally  distinct  from  that  of  ice-islands,  and  a  majority  of  the 
officers  and  men  were  also  satisfied  that  if  land  could  exist,  that  was  it. 

I  mention  particularly  the  names  of  these  two  gentlemen,  because 
they  have  staled  the  same  fact  under  oath,  before  the  court-martial, 
after  our  return. 

On  board  the  Porpoise,  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  states, 
that  "  he  went  aloft  in  the  afternoon,  the  weather  being  clear  and  fine, 
the  horizon  good,  and  clouds  lofty;  that  he  saw  over  the  field-ice  an 
object,  large,  dark,  and  rounding,  resembling  a  mountain  in  the  dis- 
tance ;  the  icebergs  were  all  light  and  brilliant,  and  in  great  contrast." 
lie  goes  on  to  say,  in  his  report,  "  I  watched  for  an  hour  to  see  if  the 
sun  in  his  decline  would  change  the  colour  of  the  object :  it  remained 
the  same,  with  a  white  cloud  above,  similar  to  that  hovering  over  high 
land.  At  sunset  the  appearance  remained  the  same.  I  took  the  bear- 
ings accurately,  intending  to  examine  it  closely  as  soon  as  we  got  a 
breeze.  I  am  thoroughly  of  opinion  it  is  an  island  surrounded  by 
immense  fields  of  ice.  The  Peacock  in  sight  to  the  southward  and 
eastward  over  the  ice  ;  the  sun  set  at  a  few  minutes  before  ten  ;  soon 
after,  a  light  air  from  the  southward,  with  a  fog-bank  arising,  which 
quickly  shut  out  the  field-ice." 

In  Passed  Midshipman  Eld's  journal,  he  asserts  that  he  had  been 
several  times  to  the  masthead  during  the  day,  to  view  the  barrier; 
that  it  was  not  onlv  a  barrier  of  ice,  but  one  of  terra  firma.  Passed 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  293 

Midshipman  Reynolds  and  himself  exclaimed,  with  one  accord,  that  it 
\vas  land.  Not  trusting  to  the  naked  eye,  they  descended  for  spy- 
glasses, which  confirmed,  beyond  a  doubt,  their  first  impressions.  The 
mountains  could  be  distinctly  seen,  over  the  field-ice  and  bergs,  stretch- 
ing to  the  southwest  as  far  as  any  thing  could  be  discerned.  Two 
peaks,  in  particular,  were  very  distinct,  (which  I  have  named  after 
those  two  officers,)  rising  in  a  conical  form  ;  and  others,  the  lower 
parts  of  which  were  quite  as  distinct,  but  whose  summits  were  lost  in 
light  fleecy  clouds.  Few  clouds  were  to  be  seen  in  any  other  direc- 
tion, for  the  weather  was  remarkably  clear.  The  sun  shone  brightly 
on  ridge  after  ridge,  whose  sides  were  partially  bare ;  these  connected 
the  eminences  I  have  just  spoken  of,  which  must  be  from  one  to  two 
thousand  feet  high.  Mr.  Eld  further  states,  that  on  reporting  the  dis- 
covery to  Captain  Hudson,  the  latter  replied  that  there  was  no  doubt 
of  it,  and  that  he  believed  that  most  of  the  icebergs  then  in  sight  were 
aground.  At  this  time  they  were  close  in  with  the  barrier,  and  could 
approach  no  nearer.  On  this  day,  the  Peacock  got  a  cast  of  the  deep- 
sea  lead,  with  Six's  thermometer  attached,  to  the  depth  of  eight 
hundred  and  fifty  fathoms,  only  a  short  distance  from  the  barrier :  the 
temperature  of  the  surface  was  31°,  and  at  the  depth  sounded,  31^°; 
current  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  north-by-east. 

The  log-book  of  the  Porpoise  has  also  this  notice  in  it :  "  From  six 
to  eight,  cairn  and  pleasant, — took  in  studding-sails ;  at  seven  set  main- 
topgallant-studding-sail  ;  discovered  what  we  took  to  be  an  island, 
bearing  south-by-east, — a  great  deal  of  field-ice  in  sight;  noticed 
penguins  around  the  brig.  (Signed)  J.  H.  North."  Dr.  Holmes,  on 
the  same  evening,  noted  in  his  journal,  a  marked  appearance  of  land. 

On  board  the  Vincennes  there  was  on  the  same  day  much  excite- 
ment among  the  crew.  All  eagerly  watched  the  flight  of  birds, 
together  with  the  whales  and  penguins,  and  spoke  of  the  proximity 
of  land,  which,  from  the  appearance  of  never-failing  signs,  could 
scarcely  be  doubted.  The  following  is  a  sketch  which  I  made  of 
what  I  myself  saw,  and  have  called  Ringgold's  Knoll  on  the  chart, 
and  which  at  the  same  time  will  show  the  field-ice*  as  it  appeared. 

*  The  field-ice  is  composed  of  a  vast  number  of  pieces,  varying  in  size,  and  separated 
from  one  another,  the  long  swell  keeping  the  outer  ones  always  in  motion.  The  smallest 
pieces  were  about  six  feet  in  diameter,  while  the  largest  sometimes  exceeded  five  or  six 
hundred  feet.  Their  depth  below  the  surface  varies  still  more,  and  some  appear  to  be  soft, 
whilst  others  were  hard  and  compact.  The  depth  of  these  does  not  probably  in  any  case 
exceed  twenty  feet.  Most  of  them,  and  particularly  the  larger  ones,  had  a  covering  of  about 
eighteen  inches  of  snow.  The  whole  at  a  distance  appeared  like  a  vast  level  field,  broken 
up  as  it  were  by  the  plough,  and  presenting  shapeless  angular  masses  of  every  possible  figure, 
while  here  and  there  a  table-topped  iceberg  was  enclosed. 


294 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


SKETCH  OF  LAND  AND  FIELD-ICE. 


This  night  we  were  beating  with  frequent  tacks,  in  order  to  gain 
as  much  southing  as  possible.  Previous  to  its  becoming  broad  day- 
light, the  fog  rendered  every  thing  obscure,  even  at  a  short  distance 
from  the  ship.  I  knew  that  we  were  in  close  proximity  to  icebergs 
and  field-ice,  but,  from  the  report  of  the  look-out  at  sunset,  believed 
that  there  was  an  opening  or  large  bay  leading  to  the  southward. 
The  ship  had  rapid  way  on  her,  and  was  much  tossed  about,  when  in 
an  instant  all  was  perfectly  still  and  quiet;  the  transition  was  so  sudden 
that  many  were  awakened  by  it  from  sound  sleep,  and  all  well  knew, 
from  the  short  experience  we  had  had,  that  the  cessation  of  the  sound  and 
motion  usual  at  sea,  was  a  proof  that  w7e  had  run  within  a  line  of  ice, 
— an  occurrence  from  which  the  feeling  of  great  danger  is  inseparable. 
The  watch  was  called  by  the  officer  of  the  deck,  to  be  in  readiness  to 
execute  such  orders  as  might  be  necessary  for  the  safety  of  the  ship. 
Many  of  those  from  below  were  seen  hurrying  up  the  hatches,  and 
those  on  deck  straining  their  eyes  to  discover  the  barrier  in  time  to 
avoid  accident.  The  ship  still  moving  rapidly  along,  some  faint  hope 
remained  that  the  bay  might  prove  a  deep  one,  and  enable  me  to  satisfy 
my  sanguine  hopes  and  belief  relative  to  the  land. 

The  feeling  is  awful  and  the  uncertainty  most  trying  thus  to  enter 
within  the  icy  barrier  blindfolded  as  it  were  by  an  impenetrable  fog, 
and  the  thought  constantly  recurring  that  both  ship  and  crew  were 
in  imminent  danger;  yet  I  was  satisfied  that  nothing  could  be  gained 
but  by  pursuing  this  course.  On  we  kept,  until  it  was  reported  to  me, 
by  attentive  listeners,  that  they  heard  the  low  and  distant  rustling  of 
the  ice:  suddenly  a  dozen  voices  proclaimed  the  barrier  to  be  in  sight, 
just  ahead.  The  ship,  which  a  moment  before  seemed  as  if  unpeopled, 
from  the  stillness  of  all  on  board,  was  instantly  alive  with  the  bustle  of 
performing  the  evolutions  necessary  to  bring  her  to  the  wind,  which 
was  unfavourable  to  a  return  on  the  same  track  by  which  we  had 
entered.  After  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  the  ice  was  again  made  ahead, 
and  the  full  danger  of  our  situation  was  realized.  The  ship  was 
certainly  embayed  ;  and  although  the  extent  of  sea-room  to  which  we 
were  limited,  was  rendered  invisible  by  the  dark  and  murky  weather, 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  295 

yet  that  we  were  closely  circumscribed  was  evident  from  having 
made  the  ice  so  soon  on  either  tack,  and  from  the  audible  rustling 
around  us.  It  required  several  hours  to  extricate  the  ship  from  this 
bay. 

Few  are  able  to  estimate  the  feelings  that  such  an  occasion  causes 
to  a  commander,  who  has  the  responsibility  of  the  safety  of  ship  and 
crew  operating  as  a  heavy  weight  upon  his  heart,  and  producing  a 
feeling  as  if  on  the  verge  of  some  overwhelming  calamity.  All  tends 
to  satisfy  him  that  nothing  could  guide  him  in  safety  through,  or  shield 
from  destruction  those  who  have  been  entrusted  to  his  charge,  but  the 
hand  of  an  all-wise  Providence. 

17th.  In  the  morning  we  discovered  a  ship  apparently  within  a  mile 
of  us,  to  which  we  made  signal  and  fired  a  gun,  but  she  was  shortly 
after  lost  sight  of.  We  also  saw  the  brig  to  the  eastward,  close  to  the 
barrier  of  ice.  In  the  afternoon  we  spoke  the  Peacock :  she  had  not 
seen  us  in  the  morning ;  and  I  should  be  disposed  to  believe  that  the 
cause  of  her  image  appearing  so  close  to  us  in  the  morning  was 
produced  by  refraction  above  a  low  fog-bank  ;  but  the  usual  accom- 
paniment of  such  phenomena,  a  difference  of  temperature  below  and 
aloft,  did  not  exist. 

I  now  desired  Captain  Hudson  to  make  the  best  use  of  his  time  in 
exploring,  as  to  attempt  to  keep  company  would  only  impede  our 
progress,  and,  without  adding  to  our  safety,  might  prevent  the  oppor- 
tunity of  examining  the  barrier  for  an  opening.  I  was  also  satisfied 
that  the  separation  would  be  a  strong  incentive  to  exertion,  by  exciting 
rivalry  among  the  officers  and  crews  of  the  different  vessels.  This 
day  at  noon  we  were  in  latitude  66°  20'  S.,  longitude  156°  02'  E. 
Many  petrels,  albatrosses,  a  few  whales,  and  a  seal,  were  seen  from 
the  ship ;  and  the  water  was  quite  green. 

18th.  The  weather  this  day  was  variable,  with  light  westerly  winds; 
the  temperature  of  air  and  water  32°.  Occasional  squalls  of  snow  and 
mist  occurred,  but  it  was  at  times  clear.  The  water  was  still  olive- 
green  ;  and  the  other  vessels  occasionally  in  sight,  beating  to  windward. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  deep  bay,  and 
discovered  the  Peacock  standing  to  the  southwest.  Until  eight  o'clock, 
A.  M.,  we  had  a  moderate  breeze.  The  water  was  of  a  darker  olive- 
green,  and  had  a  muddy  appearance.  Land  was  now  certainly  visible 
from  the  Vincennes,  both  to  the  south-southeast  and  southwest,  in  the 
former  direction  most  distinctly.  Both  appeared  high.  It  was  between 
eight  and  nine  in  the  morning  when  I  was  fully  satisfied  that  it  was 
certainly  land,  and  my  own  opinion  was  confirmed  by  that  of  some  of 


296  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

the  oldest  and  most  experienced  seamen  on  board.  The  officer  of  the 
morning  watch,  Lieutenant  Alden,  sent  twice,  and  called  my  attention 
to  it.  We  were  at  this  time  in  longitude  154°  30'  E.,  latitude  60°  20' 
S. ;  the  day  was  fine,  and  at  times  quite  clear,  with  light  winds.  After 
divine  service,  I  still  saw  the  outline  of  the  land,  unchanged  in  form 
but  not  so  distinct  as  in  the  morning.  By  noon,  I  found  we  were 
sagging  on  to  the  barrier;  the  boats  were  lowered  in  consequence,  and 
the  ship  towed  off.  The  report  from  aloft,  was,  "  A  continued  barrier 
of  ice  around  the  bay,  and  no  opening  to  be  seen,  having  the  western 
point  of  it  bearing  to  the  northward  of  west  of  us."  I  stood  to  the 
westward  to  pass  around  it,  fully  assured  that  the  Peacock  would 
explore  all  the  outline  of  the  bay. 

The  Peacock,  at  3h  30m,  according  to  Captain  Hudson's  journal, 
having  got  into  the  drift-ice,  with  a  barrier  still  ahead  to  the  west, 
tacked  to  the  southeast  to  work  up  for  an  immense  mass,  which  had 
every  appearance  of  land,  and  which  was  believed  to  be  such  by  all 
on  board.  It  was  seen  far  beyond  and  towering  above  an  ice-island 
that  was  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  in  height.  It 
bore  from  them  about  southwest,*  and  had  the  appearance  of  being 
three  thousand  feet  in  height,  forming  a  sort  of  amphitheatre,  looking 
gray  and  dark,  and  divided  into  two  distinct  ridges  or  elevations 
throughout  its  entire  extent,  the  whole  being  covered  with  snow.  As 
there  was  no  probability  of  getting  nearer  to  it  in  this  quarter,  they 
stood  out  of  the  bay,  which  was  about  twenty  miles  deep,  to  proceed 
to  the  westward,  hoping  to  get  an  opportunity  to  approach  the  object 
more  closely  on  the  other  side. 

We  had  a  beautiful  and  unusual  sight  presented  to  us  this  night:  the 
sun  and  moon  both  appeared  above  the  horizon  at  the  same  time,  and 
each  throwing  its  light  abroad.  The  latter  was  nearly  full.  The 
former  illuminated  the  icebergs  and  distant  continent  with  his  deep 
golden  rays  ;  while  the  latter,  in  the  opposite  horizon,  tinged  with  silvery 
light  the  clouds  in  its  immediate  neighbourhood.  There  now  being  no 
doubt  in  any  mind  of  the  discovery  of  land,  it  gave  an  exciting  interest 
to  the  cruise,  that  appeared  to  set  aside  all  thought  of  fatigue,  and  to 
make  every  one  willing  to  encounter  any  difficulty  to  effect  a  landing. 

20th.  This  day,  on  board  the  Peacock  they  witnessed  a  sea-fight 
between  a  whale  and  one  of  its  many  enemies.  The  sea  was  quite 
smooth,  and  offered  the  best  possible  view  of  the  whole  combat.  First, 
at  a  distance  from  the  ship,  a  whale  was  seen  floundering  in  a  most 

*  Sketches  of  this  land  will  be  seen  in  the  Atlas  on  the  Chart  of  Antarctic  Continent. 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  297 

extraordinary  way,  lashing  the  smooth  sea  into  a  perfect  foam,  and 
endeavouring  apparently  to  extricate  himself  from  some  annoyance. 
As  he  approached  the  ship,  the  struggle  continuing  and  becoming 
more  violent,  it  was  perceived  that  a  fish,  apparently  about  twenty 
feet  long,  held  him  by  the  jaw,  his  contortions,  spouting,  and  throes  all 
betokening  the  agony  of  the  huge  monster.  The  whale  now  threw 
himself  at  full  length  from  the  water  with  open  mouth,  his  pursuer  still 
hanging  to  the  jaw,  the  blood  issuing  from  the  wound  and  dyeing  the 
sea  to  a  distance  around ;  but  all  his  flounderings  were  of  no  avail ; 
his  pertinacious  enemy  still  maintained  his  hold,  and  was  evidently 
getting  the  advantage  of  him.  Much  alarm  seemed  to  be  felt  by  the 
many  other  whales  around.  These  "  killers,"  as  they  are  called,  are 
of  a  brownish  colour  on  the  back,  and  white  on  the  belly,  with  a  long 
dorsal  fin.  Such  was  the  turbulence  with  which  they  passed,  that  a 
good  view  could  not  be  had  of  them  to  make  out  more  nearly  the 
description.  These  fish  attack  a  whale  in  the  same  way  as  dogs  bait 
a  bull,  and  worry  him  to  death.  They  are  armed  with  strong  sharp 
teeth,  and  generally  seize  the  whale  by  the  lower  jaw.  It  is  said  that 
the  only  part  of  them  they  eat  is  the  tongue.  The  whalers  give  some 
marvellous  accounts  of  these  killers  and  of  their  immense  strength ; 
among  them,  that  they  have  been  known  to  drag  a  whale  away  from 
several  boats  which  were  towing  it  to  the  ship. 

There  was  a  great  quantity  of  animalculas  in  the  water,  and  some 
large  squids  (Medusae)  and  quantities  of  shrimp  were  frequently  seen 
about  the  icebergs ;  these  are  no  doubt  the  attractions  which  bring 
whales  to  frequent  these  seas. 

The  last  two  days  we  had  very  many  beautiful  snow-white  petrels 
about.  The  character  of  the  ice  had  now  become  entirely  changed. 
The  tabular-formed  icebergs  prevailed,  and  there  was  comparatively 
little  field-ice.  Some  of  the  bergs  were  of  magnificent  dimensions, 
one-third  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two 
hundred  feet  in  height,  with  sides  perfectly  smooth,  as  though  they  had 
been  chiselled.  Others,  again,  exhibited  lofty  arches  of  many-coloured 
tints,  leading  into  deep  caverns,  open  to  the  swell  of  the  sea,  which 
rushing  in,  produced  loud  and  distant  thunderings.  The  flight  of  birds 
passing  in  and  out  of  these  caverns,  recalled  the  recollection  of  ruined 
abbeys,  castles,  and  caves,  while  here  and  there  a  bold  projecting 
bluff,  crowned  with  pinnacles  and  turrets,  resembled  some  Gothic 
keep.  A  little  farther  onwards  would  be  seen  a  vast  fissure,  as  if  some 
powerful  force  had  rent  in  twain  these  mighty  masses.  Every  noise 
on  board,  even  our  own  voices,  reverberated  from  the  massive  and 
pure  white  walls.  These  tabular  bergs  are  like  masses  of  beautiful 

VOL.  ii.  38 


298  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

alabaster :  a  verbal  description  of  them  can  do  little  to  convey  the 
reality  to  the  imagination  of  one  who  has  not  been  among  them.  If 
an  immense  city  of  ruined  alabaster  palaces  can  be  imagined,  of  every 
variety  of  shape  and  tint,  and  composed  of  huge  piles  of  buildings 
grouped  together,  with  long  lanes  or  streets  winding  irregularly 
through  them,  some  faint  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  grandeur  and 
beauty  of  the  spectacle.  The  time  and  circumstances  under  which 
we  were  viewing  them,  threading  our  way  through  these  vast  bergs, 
we  knew  not  to  what  end,  left  an  impression  upon  me  of  these  icy  and 
desolate  regions  that  can  never  be  forgotten. 

22d.  It  was  now,  during  fine  weather,  one  continued  day;  but  we 
had  occasional  snow-squalls  that  produced  an  obscurity  that  was  tan- 
talizing. The  bergs  were  so  vast  and  inaccessible,  that  there  was  no 
possibility  of  landing  upon  them. 

The  Peacock  and  Porpoise  were  in  sight  of  each  other  this  day.  A 
large  number  of  whales,  albatrosses,  petrels,  penguins,  &c.,  were  seen 
around,  and  a  flock  of  ducks  was  also  reported  as  having  been  seen 
from  the  Vincennes,  as  well  as  several  seals.  The  effect  of  sunrise,  at 
a  little  after  2  A.  M.,  on  the  23d,  was  glorious. 

As  the  events  which  occurred  on  board  the  Peacock  during  the  next 
few  days  are  particularly  interesting,  I  shall  proceed  to  narrate  them 
in  detail,  leaving  the  Vincennes  and  Porpoise  to  pursue  their  route 
along  their  dangerous  and  novel  pathway,  and  would  particularly 
refer  the  reader  to  the  actual  condition  of  the  Peacock,  a  statement  of 
which  has  been  heretofore  given,  that  it  may  be  borne  in  mind  that 
our  vessels  iiad  no  planking,  extra  fastening,  or  other  preparations  for 
these  icy  regions,  beyond  those  of  the  vessels  of  war  in  our  service. 

The  Peacock  stood  into  the  bay  which  the  Vincennes  had  found 
closed  the  day  before,  and  saw  the  same  appearance  of  high  land  in 
the  distance.  The  water  was  much  discoloured,  and  of  a  dark  dirty 
green.  They  hove-to,  for  the  double  purpose  of  getting  a  cast  of  the 
lead,  and  of  lowering  the  boats  to  carry  the  instruments  to  a  small  ice- 
berg, on  which  it  was  possible  to  land,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
magnetic  observations.  A  line  of  one  thousand  four  hundred  fathoms 
was  prepared  to  sound,  and  to  the  lead  was  attached  the  cylinder  with 
Six's  thermometer.  The  wind  being  fresh,  several  leads  at  different  dis- 
tances were  attached  to  the  line.  They  were  not  aware  that  the  lead- 
line had  touched  bottom,  until  they  began  to  haul  in,  when  it  was  found 
that  the  lead  bent  on  at  five  hundred  fathoms  was  filled  with  blue  and 
slate-coloured  mud.  Attached  to  the  lead  also  was  a  piece  of  stone, 
and  a  fresh  bruise  on  it,  as  though  the  lead  had  struck  heavily  on  rock. 

The  remainder  of  the  line  had  evidently  lain  on  the  bottom,  as  the 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  399 

copper  cylinder  was  covered  with  mud,  and  the  water  inside  of  it  was 
quite  muddy.  They  then  beat  up  a  short  distance  to  windward,  and 
again  sounded,  when,  with  the  line  hanging  vertically,  bottom  was 
reached  at  three  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms  ;  the  matter  brought  up 
was  slate-coloured  mud.  The  temperature  of  the  water  at  the  surface 
was  32°,  and  at  the  above  depth  27^°,  being  a  decrease  of  4^°. 

The  boats  now  returned,  and  on  approaching  the  ship  the  persons  in 
them  were  much  startled  by  hearing  the  crew  cheer  ship  in  conse- 
quence of  finding  soundings.  This  was  a  natural  burst  of  joy,  on 
obtaining  this  unquestionable  proof  that  what  they  saw  was  indeed  the 
land ;  a  circumstance  that,  while  it  left  no  doubt,  if  any  had  existed,  in 
the  mind  of  any  one  on  board  the  Peacock,  that  what  they  had  previ- 
ously seen  was  truly  terra  firma,  furnished  a  proof  that  cannot  be 
gainsaid,  even  by  those  disposed  to  dispute  the  evidence  of  sight, 
unsupported  by  so  decisive  a  fact.  Mr.  Eld  and  Mr.  Stuart,  in  the 
boats,  succeeded  in  getting  observations,  and  the  mean  dip  by  the 
needles  was  86°  16'. 

Mr.  Eld's  boat  succeeded  in  taking  a  king-penguin  of  enormous  size, 
viz. :  from  tip  of  tail  to  the  bill,  forty-five  inches ;  across  the  flippers, 
thirty-seven  inches ;  and  the  circumference  of  the  body,  thirty-three 
inches.  He  was  taken  after  a  truly  sailor-like  fashion,  by  knocking 
him  down.  The  bird  remained  quite  unmoved  on  their  approach,  or 
rather  showed  a  disposition  to  come  forward  to  greet  them.  A  blow 
with  the  boat-hook,  however,  stunned  him,  and  before  his  recovery  he 
was  well  secured.  He  showed,  on  coming  to  himself,  much  resent- 
ment at  the  treatment  he  had  received,  not  only  by  fighting,  but  by  an 
inordinate  noise.  He  was  in  due  time  preserved  as  a  specimen,  and 
now  graces  the  collection  at  Washington.  In  his  craw  were  found 
thirty-two  pebbles,  from  the  size  of  a  pea  to  that  of  a  hazel-nut. 

24th.  Bergs  and  field-ice  were  in  various  directions  around.  They 
had  light  baffling  winds,  clear  and  pleasant  weather,  with  a  smooth  sea. 
The  water  was  of  a  dark  green  colour.  Standing  into  the  bay  for  the 
purpose  of  approaching  the  land,  they  at  5  A.  M.  passed  through  drift- 
ice  into  an  open  space,  and  when  they  had  again  approached  the  field, 
hove-to  for  the  purpose  of  sounding.  Here  bottom  was  found  at  the 
depth  of  eight  hundred  fathoms;  and  the  matter  brought  up  was 
similar  to  that  obtained  the  day  before.  The  distance  between  the 
points  where  these  two  soundings  were  obtained,  was  but  short. 

At  8h  30m  A.  M.,  while  attempting  to  box  off  the  ship  from  some  ice 
under  the  bow,  she  made  a  stern-board,  which  brought  the  stern  so 
forcibly  in  contact  with  another  mass  of  ice,  that  it  seemed  from  the 
shock,  as  if  it  were  entirely  stove  in;  the  rudder  was  so  much  canted 


300  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

from  its  position,  as  to  carry  away  the  starboard  wheel-rope,  and  to 
wrench  the  neck  of  the  rudder  itself  in  such  a  manner  as  to  render  it 
unserviceable,  or  even  worse  than  useless.  In  hopes  of  lessening  the 
difficulty,  relieving-tackles  were  applied  to  the  tiller,  but  without  effect, 
for  it  was  discovered  that  the  rudder  had  been  so  far  twisted  as  to 
make  a  considerable  angle  with  the  keel,  and  every  exertion  to  move 
it  proved  ineffectual. 

All  hands  were  now  called,  and  every  officer  and  man  was  speedily 
at  his  station.  The  ship  was  found  to  be  rapidly  entering  the  ice,  and 
every  effort  to  direct  her  course  by  the  management  of  the  sails  proved 
fruitless.  In  this  helpless  condition  scarcely  a  moment  passed  without 
a  new  shock  in  some  quarter  or  other  from  the  ice,  and  every  blow 
threatened  instant  destruction.  The  hope  was  not  yet  abandoned,  that 
some  temporary  expedient  might  be  found  to  bring  the  rudder  again 
into  use,  until  they  should  be  extricated  from  this  perilous  situation. 
A  stage  was,  therefore,  rigged  over  the  stern,  for  the  purpose  of 
examining  into  its  state,  but  it  was  found  to  be  so  much  injured  that  it 
was  impossible  to  remedy  its  defects  while  in  its  place,  and  prepara- 
tions were  forthwith  made  for  unshipping  it.  In  the  mean  time  the 
position  of  the  vessel  was  every  instant  growing  worse,  surrounded  as 
she  was  by  masses  of  floe-ice,  and  driving  further  and  further  into  it, 
towards  an  immense  wall-sided  iceberg.  All  attempts  to  get  the  vessel 
on  the  other  tack  failed,  in  consequence  of  her  being  so  closely  encom- 
passed, and  it  was  therefore  thought  expedient  to  attempt  to  bring  her 
head  round,  by  hanging  her  to  an  iceberg  by  the  ice-anchors,  and  thus 
complete  what  had  been  partially  effected  by  the  sails.  The  anchor 
was  attached,  but  just  at  the  moment  the  hawser  was  passed  on  board, 
the  ship  took  a  start  so  suddenly  astern,  that  the  rope  was  literally 
dragged  out  of  the  men's  hands  before  they  could  get  a  turn  around 
the  bits. 

The  ship  now  drove  stern  foremost  into  the  midst  of  the  huge  masses 
of  ice,  striking  the  rudder  a  second  time.  This  blow  gave  it  the 
finishing  stroke,  by  nearly  wringing  off  the  head,  breaking  two  of  the 
pintles,  and  the  upper  and  lower  brace. 

The  wind  now  began  to  freshen,  and  the  floe-ice  to  set  upon  the 
ship.  The  sails  were  furled,  and  spars  rigged  up  and  down  the  ship's 
sides  as  fenders.  Attempts  were  again  made  to  plant  the  ice-anchors, 
for  which  purpose  the  boats  were  lowered ;  but  the  confined  space, 
and  the  force  with  which  the  pieces  of  ice  ground  against  each  other 
was  so  great,  that  the  boats  proved  nearly  as  unmanageable  as  the 
ship.  After  much  exertion,  however,  the  ice-anchors  were  planted,  and 
the  hawser  hauled  taut.  Here  they  for  a  time  enjoyed  comparative 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  301 

security,  as  the  vessel  hung  by  the  anchors,  which  were  planted  in  a 
large  floe.  The  ice  continued  to  close  in  rapidly  upon  them,  grinding, 
crushing,  and  carrying  away  the  fenders;  and  the  wind,  that  had 
changed  to  seaward,  rose  with  appearances  that  foreboded  bad 
weather. 

At  10h  30m  this  security  was  at  an  end ;  for  the  anchors,  in  spite  of 
the  exertions  of  the  officers  and  men  who  were  near  them,  broke  loose, 
and  the  ship  was  again  at  the  mercy  of  huge  floating  masses.  A  rapid 
stern-board  was  the  consequence ;  and  a  contact  with  an  ice-island, 
vast,  perpendicular,  and  as  high  as  the  mastheads,  appeared  inevitable. 

Every  possible  preparation  was  made  to  meet  the  expected  shock. 
There  was  no  noise  or  confusion,  and  the  self-possession  and  admi- 
rable conduct  of  the  commander  inspired  courage  and  confidence  in 
all.  Preparations  were  made  to  cockbill  the  yards,  and  spars  were 
got  out. 

While  these  preparations  were  going  forward,  the  imminence  of  the 
danger  lessened  for  a  while :  the  anchors  again  held,  and  there  was  a 
hope  that  they  might  bring  the  vessel  up  before  she  struck.  This 
hope,  however,  endured  but  for  a  moment ;  for  the  anchors,  with  the 
whole  body  of  ice  to  which  they  were  attached,  came  in,  and  the 
ship  going  astern,  struck  quartering  upon  a  piece  of  ice  which  lay 
between  her  and  the  great  ice-island.  This  afforded  the  last  hope  of 
preventing  her  from  coming  in  contact  with  it ;  and  this  hope  failed 
also ;  for,  grinding  along  the  ice,  she  went  nearly  stern  foremost,  and 
struck  with  her  larboard  quarter  upon  the  ice-island  with  a  tremen- 
dous crash. 

The  first  effect  of  this  blow  was  to  carry  away  the  spanker-boom, 
the  larboard  stern-davit,  and  to  crush  the  stern-boat.  The  starboard 
stern-davit  was  the  next  to  receive  the  shock,  and  as  this  is  connected 
with  the  spar-deck  bulwarks,  the  whole  of  them  were  started ;  the 
knee,  a  rotten  one,  which  bound  the  davit  to  the  taffrail,  was  broken 
off,  and  with  it  all  the  stanchions  to  the  plank-sheer,  as  far  as  the 
gangway. 

Severe  as  was  this  shock,  it  happened  fortunately  that  it  was  fol- 
lowed by  as  great  a  rebound.  This  gave  the  vessel  a  cant  to  star- 
board, and  by  the  timely  aid  of  the  jib  and  other  sails,  carried  her 
clear  of  the  ice-island,  and  forced  her  into  a  small  opening.  While 
doing  this,  and  before  the  vessel  had  moved  half  her  length,  an  impend- 
ing mass  of  ice  and  snow  fell  in  her  wake.  Had  this  fallen  only  a  few 
seconds  earlier,  it  must  have  crushed  the  vessel  to  atoms. 

It  was  also  fortunate  that  the  place  where  she  struck  the  ice-island 
was  near  its  southern  end,  so  that  there  was  but  a  short  distance  to  be 


302  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

passed  before  she  was  entirely  clear  of  it.  This  gave  more  room  for 
the  drifting  ice,  and  permitted  the  vessel  to  be  worked  by  her  sails. 

The  relief  from  this  pressing  danger,  however  gratifying,  gave  no 
assurance  of  ultimate  safety.  The  weather  had  an  unusually  stormy 
appearance;  and  the  destruction  of  the  vessel  seemed  almost  inevita- 
ble, with  the  loss  of  every  life  on  board.  They  had  the  melancholy 
alternative  in  prospect  of  being  frozen  to  death  one  after  the  other,  or 
perishing  in  a  body  by  the  dissolving  of  the  iceberg  on  which  they 
should  take  refuge,  should  the  vessel  sink. 

When  the  dinner  hour  arrived  the  vessel  was  again  fast  in  the  ice, 
and  nothing  could  for  a  time  be  done :  it  was  therefore  piped  as  usual. 
This  served  to  divert  the  minds  of  the  men  from  the  dangers  around 
them. 

When  the  meal  was  over,  the  former  manoeuvring  was  resorted  to, 
the  yards  being  kept  swinging  to  and  fro,  in  order  to  keep  the  ship's 
head  in  the  required  direction.  She  was  labouring  in  the  swell,  with 
ice  grinding  and  thumping  against  her  on  all  sides ;  every  moment 
something  either  fore  or  aft  was  carried  away — chains,  bolts,  bob- 
stays,  bowsprit,  shrouds  ;  even  the  anchors  were  lifted,  coming  down 
with  a  surge  that  carried  away  the  eyebolts  and  lashings,  and  left  them 
to  hang  by  the  stoppers.  The  cut-water  also  was  injured,  and  every 
timber  seemed  to  groan. 

Similar  dangers  attended  those  in  the  boats.  Passed  Midshipman 
Eld  was  sent  to  plant  the  ice-anchors :  there  was  no  room  for  the  use 
of  oars;  the  grinding  and  grating  of  the  ice,  as  it  rose  and  fell  with  the 
swell,  rendered  great  precaution  necessary  to  prevent  the  boat  from 
being  swamped  or  crushed  ;  and  when  it  is  stated  that  two  hours  of 
hard  exertion  were  required  to  plant  the  ice-anchors,  some  idea  of  the 
difficulty  attending  this  service  will  be  had.  But  this  was  not  all;  the 
difficulty  of  returning  was  equally  great,  and  no  possible  way  of  effect- 
ing it  seemed  to  suggest  itself.  The  sides  of  the  icebergs  could  not  be 
ascended,  and  to  approach  the  berg  on  the  side  next  the  ship  was 
certain  destruction  to  the  boat  and  crew,  for  the  ice  and  water  were 
foaming  like  a  cauldron  ;  and  to  abandon  the  former  was  equally  out  of 
the  question.  At  last  a  chance  offered,  although  almost  a  hopeless 
one,  by  passing  between  two  of  these  bergs,  that  appeared  on  the 
other  side  of  a  small  clear  space.  The  boat  was  upon  a  small  piece 
of  ice,  from  which,  by  great  exertions,  she  was  launched  ;  a  few  pulls 
at  the  oars  brought  them  to  the  passage ;  the  bergs  were  closing  fast, 
and  agitated  by  the  swell;  no  time,  therefore,  was  to  be  lost:  the 
danger  was  already  great,  and  in  a  few  seconds  it  would  be  impossible 
to  pass.  They  entered ;  their  oars  caught,  and  they  got  but  half-way 


r -sorted  to. 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  305 

There  appeared  no  other  course  but  to  drive  her  out,  which  was 
deemed  the  only  chance  of  saving  the  ship  and  crew.  All  the  canvass 
that  would  draw  was  therefore  set  to  force  her  through;  and  the 
wind  favouring  them,  they  had  by  four  o'clock  succeeded  in  passing 
the  thick  and  solid  ice,  and  shortly  afterwards  found  themselves  in 
clear  water,  without  a  rudder,  the  gripe  gone,  and,  as  was  afterwards 
found,  the  stem  ground  down  to  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the  wood- 
ends. 

The  carpenters  were  still  employed  on  the  rudder,  and  had  suc- 
ceeded in  removing  the  broken  pieces  of  the  pintles  from  the  second 
and  third  braces  on  the  stern-post ;  the  upper  and  lower  pintles  were 
broken,  leaving  only  two  to  hang  the  rudder  by.  The  weather  seemed 
now  to  favour  them,  and  about  ten  o'clock  they  had  finished  the  rudder, 
which  had  been  repaired  in  the  best  possible  manner.  Great  credit  is 
due  to  Mr.  Dibble,  the  carpenter,  (who  left  his  sick  bed  on  the  occa- 
sion,) for  his  exertions,  attention,  and  perseverance.  He  and  the 
carpenter's  crew  worked  twenty-four  hours  without  intermission. 
The  ship  was  now  hove-to,  for  it  was  apprehended  that  her  rolling 
would  render  the  task  of  shipping  the  rudder  troublesome.  By  meri- 
dian they  were  again  in  a  situation  to  make  sail  to  extricate  them- 
selves from  a  bay  some  thirty  miles  in  extent,  which,  with  the 
exception  of  the  small  opening  by  which  they  had  entered,  was 
apparently  closed  by  the  barrier. 

Shortly  afterwards,  the  wind  becoming  fair,  they  made  all  sail  for 
the  outlet.  The  weather  proved  fine,  and  the  winds  moderate.  At 
midnight  they  found  the  only  opening  left,  which  was  not  more  than 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide ;  they  succeeded  in  passing  through  this,  by 
2  A.  M.,  in  a  snow-storm,  and  felt  grateful  to  God  for  their  providential 
escape. 

Captain  Hudson  now  came  to  the  conclusion  of  returning  north. 
"  After,"  as  he  says,  "  thoroughly  turning  over  in  my  own  mind  the 
state  of  the  ship, — with  the  head  of  the  rudder  gone,  hanging  by  two 
braces,  and  in  such  a  state  that  we  could  hardly  hope  to  make  it 
answer  its  purposes  again,  in  encountering  the  boisterous  weather  we 
should  have  to  pass  through  before  reaching  the  first  port, — the  ship 
considerably  strained ;  her  starboard  spar-deck  bulwarks  gone  as  far 
forward  as  the  gangway ;  the  gripe  off,  and  the  stern  mutilated ; — fully 
satisfied  from  this  state  of  things  that  she  was  perfectly  useless  for 
cruising  among  icebergs,  and  the  accompanying  dangers,  in  thick 
foggy  weather,  to  which,  in  these  latitudes,  we  should  be  more  or  less 
subject,  and  where  rapid  evolutions  were  often  necessary,  in  which  the 
rudder  must  perform  its  part ;  and  that  the  ship  would  require  exten- 

VOL.  n.  39 


306 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


sive  repairs  before  being  employed  in  surveying  operations;  and  feeling 
that  the  season  \vas  rapidly  coming  round  when  our  services  would  be 
required  in  that  duty,  I  held  a  council  of  the  ward-room  officers,  and 
required  their  opinions  as  to  making  any  further  attempts  to  cruise  in 
these  latitudes. 

"  There  was  but  one  opinion  as  to  the  necessity  of  the  ship's  return- 
ing north,  with  the  exception  of  Mr.  Emmons  and  Mr.  Baldwin,  who 
thought  the  rudder  might  stand,  provided  we  did  not  get  near  the  ice 
or  fall  in  with  icebergs.  This  of  course  would  be  to  effect  little  or 
nothing,  and  result  only  in  a  loss  of  time.  I  accordingly  put  the  ship's 
head  north,  determined  to  proceed  at  once  to  Sydney,  to  effect  the 
necessary  repairs,  so  as  to  be  ready  at  the  earliest  possible  day  to  join 
the  squadron." 

Such  were  the  dangers  and  difficulties  from  which  the  Peacock,  by 
the  admirable  conduct  of  her  officers  and  crew,  directed  by  the  con- 
summate seamanship  of  her  commander,  was  enabled  at  this  time  to 
escape.  There  still,  however,  remained  thousands  of  miles  of  a  stormy 
ocean  to  be  encountered,  with  a  ship  so  crippled  as  to  be  hardly  capa- 
ble of  working,  and  injured  to  such  an  extent  in  her  hull  as  to  be  kept 
afloat  with  difficulty.  The  narrative  of  the  events  of  this  perilous 
navigation  must,  however,  be  postponed,  until  I  shall  have  given  the 
proceedings  of  the  other  vessels  of  the  squadron,  while  tracing  out  the 
position  of  the  icy  barrier,  and  following  along  the  newly-discovered 
continent. 


CHAP  TEE  X. 


CONTENTS. 

PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  VINCENNES  FROM  THE  TWENTY  SECOND  OF  JANUARY— DISAP- 
POINTMENT BAY— WATERING  ON  THE  ICE-DIAGRAMS  OF  THE  ICE-ISLANDS-THEIR 
UTILITY— VIOLENT  GALE  AND  SNOW-STORM—NARROW  ESCAPE  FROM  STRIKING  THE 
ICE— THE  OPEN  SEA  REACHED-RETURN  OF  FINE  WEATHER  — VINCENNES  STANDS 
AGAIN  TO  THE  SOUTH,  AND  REACHES  THE  ICY  BARRIER— PINER'S  BAY-SOUNDINGS 
IN  THIRTY  FATHOMS  —  ANOTHER  VIOLENT  GALE  —  REPORT  OF  THE  MEDICAL 
OFFICERS— OPINION  OF  THE  WARD  ROOM  OFFICERS— DETERMINATION  TO  PROCEED 
WITH  THE  CRUISE— ITS  EVENTS  UP  TO  THE  FOURTEENTH  OF  FEBRUARY— LANDING 
ON  AN  ICEBERG— SPECIMENS  OF  ROCKS  OBTAINED— INQUIRY  IN  RELATION  TO  THE 
FORMATION  OF  ICEBERGS— THEIR  SEPARATION  FROM  THE  LAND— THEIR  PROGRESS- 
FURTHER  EVIDENCE  IN  RELATION  TO  THE  ANTARCTIC  CONTINENT— ESTIMATE  OF 
THE  RATE  AT  WHICH  THE  FLOATING  ICE  MOVES  — THE  VINCENNES  BEGINS  HER 
RETURN  TO  THE  NORTH. 


(307) 


CHAPTER   X. 

ANTARCTIC    C  R  U  I  S  E  —  C  O  N  T  I  N  U  E  D . 
1840. 

IN  taking  up  the  narrative  of  the  disaster  sustained  by  the  Peacock, 
with  which  the  preceding  chapter  closes,  the  Vincennes  and  Porpoise 
were  left  on  the  22d  of  January. 

On  that  day  the  Vincennes  passed  the  place  through  which  the  Pea- 
cock entered,  as  has  been  related,  on  the  23d,  and  found  no  opening. 
To  judge  from  the  manner  in  which  the  ice  moved  during  the  time  the 
Peacock  was  enclosed  in  it,  I  am  inclined  to  ascribe  the  alternate  open- 
ing and  closing  of  the  passage  into  the  bay,  to  a  tide  setting  along  this 
coast.  In  support  of  this  opinion  it  is  sufficient  to  state,  that  the  strength 
of  the  winds  experienced  on  board  that  vessel  was  at  no  time  sufficient 
to  account  for  the  manner  in  which  the  ice  was  found  to  move. 

About  thirty  miles  to  the  westward  of  this  point,  the  Vincennes 
passed  a  remarkable  collection  of  tabular  icebergs,  for  whose  existence 
I  can  account  in  no  other  manner  than  by  supposing  them  to  be 
attached  to  a  rocky  islet,  which  formed  a  nucleus  to  which  they 
adhered.  It  was  quite  obvious  that  they  had  not  been  formed  in  the 
place  where  they  were  seen,  and  must,  therefore,  have  grounded,  after 
being  adrift. 

On  the  23d  January,  after  passing  around  this  group  of  icebergs,  the 
sea  was  found  comparatively  clear,  and  a  large  open  space  showed 
itself  to  the  southward.  Into  this  space  the  course  of  the  Vincennes 
was  immediately  directed.  While  thus  steering  to  the  south,  the 
appearance  of  land  was  observed  on  either  hand,  both  to  the  eastward 
and  westward. 

Pursuing  this  course,  we  by  midnight  reached  the  solid  barrier,  and 

(309) 


310  ANTARCTICCRUISE. 

all  approach  to  the  land  on  the  east  and  west  was  entirely  cut  off  by 
the  close  packing  of  the  icebergs.  I  was,  therefore,  reluctantly  com- 
pelled to  return,  not  a  little  vexed  that  we  were  again  foiled  in  our 
endeavour  to  reach  the  Antarctic  Continent.  This  was  a  deep  inden- 
tation in  the  coast,  about  twenty-five  miles  wide:  we  explored  it  to  the 
depth  of  about  fifteen  miles,  and  did  not  reach  its  termination.  This 
bay  I  have  called  Disappointment  Bay:  it  is  in  latitude  67°  04'  30"  S., 
longitude  147°  30'  E.  The  weather  was  remarkably  fine,  with  a 
bracing  air:  the  thermometer  in  the  air  22°,  in  the  water  31°. 

The  next  day,  24th,  we  stood  out  of  the  bay,  and  continued  our 
course  to  the  westward.  About  noon,  to  my  surprise,  I  learnt  that  one 
of  the  officers,  Lieutenant  Underwood,  had  marked  on  the  log-slate  that 
there  was  an  opening  of  clear  water,  subtending  three  points  of  the 
compass,  at  the  bottom  of  Disappointment  Bay.  Though  confident 
that  this  was  not  the  fact,  in  order  to  put  this  matter  at  rest,  I  at  once 
determined  to  return,  although  forty  miles  distant,  and  ordered  the  ship 
about,  to  refute  the  assertion  by  the  officer's  own  testimony.  This  was 
most  effectually  done  the  next  morning,  25th,  when  the  ship  reached  the 
identical  spot,  and  all  were  fully  convinced  that  no  opening  existed. 
The  whole  bay  was  enclosed  by  a  firm  barrier  of  ice,  from  north-north- 
west to  east-northeast. 

The  weather  proved  delightful,  with  light  airs  from  the  southward, 
and  I  determined  to  take  this  opportunity  to  fill  up  the  \vater-tanks  with 
ice.  The  ship  was  hove-to,  a  hawser  got  in  readiness,  the  boats 
lowered,  and  brought  alongside  of  an  iceberg  well  adapted  to  our 
purpose. 

The  same  opportunity  was  also  taken  to  make  the  magnetic  obser- 
vations on  the  ice,  and  to  try  the  local  attraction  of  the  ship. 

Many  birds  were  seen  about  the  ship,  of  which  we  were  fortunate  in 
obtaining  specimens.  The  day  \vas  remarkably  clear,  and  the  same 
appearance  of  land  was  seen  that  had  been  witnessed  on  the  24th.  We 
filled  nineteen  of  our  tanks  with  ice,  after  having  allowed  it  to  remain 
for  some  time  on  deck  for  the  salt  water  to  drain  off  in  part,  and  it 
proved  very  potable. 

At  about  5  P.  M.,  we  had  completed  our  required  store  of  ice,  and 
cast  off,  making  sail  to  the  northward. 

In  order  that  no  further  mistakes  should  take  place  as  to  the  openings 
being  passed,  I  issued  an  order,  directing  the  officer  of  the  deck  on 
being  relieved  to  go  to  the  masthead,  and  report  to  me  the  exact  situa- 
tion of  the  ice;  and  this  was  continued  during  the  remainder  of  our 
cruise  a'monc:  it. 


sn  Our 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  313 

remarkable  berg  that  had  been  the  last  entered  on  the  chart,  and  which 
would  be  a  guide  to  my  course  out.  I  therefore  stood  for  its  position. 
The  weather  was  so  thick,  that  it  was  necessary  to  run  close  to  it,  to 
be  quite  sure  of  recognising  it,  for  on  this  seemed  to  depend  our  safety. 
About  the  estimated  time  we  would  take  to  pass  over  the  distance,  an 
iceberg  was  made  (we  were  within  one  thousand  feet  of  it)  which,  at 
first  view,  1  felt  confident  was  the  one  sought,  but  was  not  altogether 
satisfied  afterwards.  1  therefore  again  consulted  my  chart,  and 
became  more  doubtful  of  it.  Just  at  that  moment  I  was  called  on  deck 
by  an  officer,  who  informed  me  that  there  were  icebergs  a  short  dis- 
tance ahead  !  Such  proved  to  be  the  case ;  our  path  was  beset  with 
them,  and  it  was  evident  we  could  not  regain  our  route.  To  return 
was  worse,  so  having  but  little  choice  left,  I  determined  to  keep  on.  To 
encounter  these  icebergs  so  soon  after  seeing  the  other,  was  in  some 
respects  satisfactory,  for  it  removed  all  doubts,  and  showed  me  that 
we  were  not  near  the  track  by  which  we  entered.  Nothing,  therefore, 
was  to  be  done  but  to  keep  a  good  look-out,  and  the  ship  under  suffi- 
cient way  to  steer  well.  My  safest  plan  was  to  keep  as  near  our  former 
track  as  possible,  believing  it  to  be  most  free  of  these  masses. 

At  8  p.  M.  it  began  to  blow  very  hard,  with  a  violent  snow-storm, 
circumscribing  our  view,  and  rendering  it  impossible  to  see  more  than 
two  ship's-lengths  ahead.  The  cold  was  severe,  and  every  spray  that 
touched  the  ship  was  immediately  converted  into  ice.  At  9  p.  M.,  the 
barometer  still  falling  and  the  gale  increasing,  we  reduced  sail  to 
close-reefed  fore  and  main-topsails,  reefed  foresail  and  trysails,  under 
which  we  passed  numerous  icebergs,  some  to  windward,  and  some  to 
leeward  of  us.  At  101'  30ra,  we  found  ourselves  thickly  beset  with 
them,  and  had  many  narrow  escapes ;  the  excitement  became  intense ; 
it  required  a  constant  change  of  helm  to  avoid  those  close  aboard ; 
and  we  were  compelled  to  press  the  ship  with  canvass  in  order  to 
escape  them,  by  keeping  her  to  windward.  We  thus  passed  close 
along  their  weather  sides,  and  distinctly  heard  the  roar  of  the  surf 
dashing  against  them.  We  had,  from  time  to  time,  glimpses  of  their 
obscure  outline,  appearing  as  though  immediately  above  us.  After 
many  escapes,  I  found  the  ship  so  covered  with  ice,  and  the  watch  so 
powerless  in  managing  her,  that  a  little  after  midnight,  on  the  29th, 
I  had  all  hands  called.  Scarcely  had  they  been  reported  on  deck, 
when  it  was  made  known  to  me  that  the  gunner,  Mr.  Williamson,  had 
fallen,  broken  his  ribs,  and  otherwise  injured  himself,  on  the  icy  deck. 

The  gale  at  this  moment  was  awful.  We  found  we  were  passing 
large  masses  of  drift-ice,  and  ice-islands  became  more  numerous.  At 
a  little  after  one  o'clock  it  was  terrific,  and  the  sea  was  now  so  heavy, 

VOL.  ii.  40 


314 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


that  I  was  obliged  to  reduce  sail  still  further :  the  fore  and  main-top- 
sails were  clewed  up ;  the  former  was  furled,  but  the  latter  being  a 
new  sail,  much  difficulty  was  found  in  securing  it. 


A  seaman,  by  the  name  of  Brooks,  in  endeavouring  to  execute  the 
order  to  furl,  got  on  the  lee  yardarm,  and  the  sail  having  blown  over 
the  yard,  prevented  his  return.  Not  being  aware  of  his  position  until 
it  was  reported  to  me  from  the  forecastle,  he  remained  there  some 
time.  On  my  seeing  him  he  appeared  stiff,  and  clinging  to  the  yard 
and  lift.  Spilling-lines  were  at  once  rove,  and  an  officer  with  several 
men  sent  aloft  to  rescue  him,  which  they  succeeded  in  doing  by 
passing  a  bowline  around  his  body  and  dragging  him  into  the  top, 
lie  was  almost  frozen  to  death.  Several  of  the  best  men  were  com- 
pletely exhausted  with  cold,  fatigue,  and  excitement,  and  were  sent 
below.  This  added  to  our  anxieties,  and  but  little  hope  remained  to 
me  of  escaping :  I  felt  that  neither  prudence  nor  foresight  could  avail 
in  protecting  the  ship  and  crew.  All  that  could  be  done,  was  to  be 
prepared  for  any  emergency,  by  keeping  every  one  at  his  station. 

We  were  swiftly  dashing  on,  for  I  felt  it  necessary  to  keep  the  ship 
under  rapid  way  through  the  water,  to  enable  her  to  steer  and  work 
quickly.  Suddenly  many  voices  cried  out,  "  Ice  ahead !"  then,  "  On 
the  weather  bow !"  and  again,  "  On  the  lee  bow  and  abeam !"  All 
hope  of  escape  seemed  in  a  moment  to  vanish ;  return  we  could  not,  as 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  315 

large  ice-islands  had  just  been  passed  to  leeward :  so  we  dashed  on, 
expecting  every  moment  the  crash.  The  ship,  in  an  instant,  from  having 
her  lee  guns  under  water,  rose  upright ;  and  so  close  were  we  passing 
to  leeward  of  one  of  these  huge  islands,  that  our  trysails  were  almost 
thrown  aback  by  the  eddy  wind.  The  helm  was  put  up  to  pay  the  ship 
off,  but  the  proximity  of  those  under  our  lee  bade  me  keep  my  course. 
All  was  now  still  except  the  distant  roar  of  the  wild  storm,  that  was 
raging  behind,  before,  and  above  us ;  the  sea  was  in  great  agitation, 
and  both  officers  and  men  were  in  the  highest  degree  excited.  The 
ship  continued  her  way,  and  as  we  proceeded,  a  glimmering  of  hope 
arose,  for  we  accidentally  had  hit  upon  a  clear  passage  between  two 
large  ice-islands,  which  in  fine  \veather  we  should  not  dare  to  have 
ventured  through.  The  suspense  endured  while  making  our  way 
between  them  was  intense,  but  of  short  duration;  and  my  spirits  rose 
as  I  heard  the  whistling  of  the  gale  grow  louder  and  louder  before  us, 
as  we  emerged  from  the  passage.  We  had  escaped  an  awful  death, 
and  were  again  tempest-tost. 

We  encountered  many  similar  dangers  that  night.  At  half-past  4, 
A.  M.,  I  found  we  had  reached  the  small  open  space  laid  down  on  my 
chart,  and  at  five  o'clock  I  hove-to  the  ship.  I  had  been  under  intense 
excitement,  and  had  not  been  off  the  deck  for  nine  hours,  and  was  now 
thankful  to  the  Providence  that  had  guided,  watched  over,  and  pre- 
served us.  Until  7  A.  M.,  all  hands  were  on  deck,  when  there  was  some 
appearance  of  the  weather  moderating,  and  they  were  piped  down. 

The  barometer  was  marked  at  intervals,  for  which  the  reader  is 
referred  to  Appendix  XXVI. 

This  gale  was  from  the  southeast,  from  which  quarter  it  blew 
during  the  whole  of  its  strength ;  and  when  it  began  to  moderate,  the 
wind  veered  to  the  southward.  By  noon  we  felt  satisfied  that  the  gale 
was  over,  and  that  we  had  escaped,  although  it  was  difficult  to  realize 
a  sense  of  security  when  the  perils  we  had  just  passed  through  were 
so  fresh  in  our  minds,  and  others  still  impending.  Towards  four 
o'clock,  it  cleared  ofF,  and  we  saw  but  few  icebergs  near  us.  Our 
longitude  was  found  to  be  140°  E.,  latitude  63°  30'  S.,  and  I  again 
made  sail  for  the  ice  to  the  south,  to  pass  over  the  very  route  we  had 
just  traversed  through  so  many  perils. 

The  wind  had  now  hauled  to  the  southwest.  At  6  p.  M.,  we  again 
began  to  enter  among  ice-islands.  The  weather  appeared  settled ;  but 
I  had  so  often  been  deceived  by  its  fickleness,  that  I  felt  no  reliance 
ought  to  be  put  in  its  continuance.  A  powerful  inducement  was  held 
out  to  us,  in  the  prospect  of  getting  close  enough  to  effect  a  landing ; 
and  this  rendered  us  insensible  to  the  dangers. 


316  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th  the  sun  rose  in  great  brilliancy,  and  the 
scene  could  hardly  be  realized  as  the  same  as  that  we  had  passed 
through  only  twenty-four  hours  before.  All  was  now  quiet;  a  brisk 
breeze  blew  from  the  eastward,  all  sail  was  set,  and  there  was  every 
prospect  that  we  might  accomplish  our  object ;  for  the  land  was  in 
sight,  and  the  icebergs  seemed  floating  in  quiet.  We  wound  our  way 
through  them  in  a  sea  so  smooth  that  a  yawl  might  have  passed  over 
it  in  safety.  No  straight  line  could  have  been  drawn  from  us  in  any 
direction,  that  would  not  have  cut  a  dozen  icebergs  in  the  same  number 
of  miles,  and  the  wondering  exclamations  of  the  officers  and  crew  were 
oft  repeated, — "  How  could  we  have  passed  through  them  unharmed  ?" 
and,  "  What  a  lucky  ship !"  At  eight  o'clock,  we  had  reached  the  icy 
barrier,  and  hove-to  close  to  it.  It  was  tantalizing,  with  the  land  in 
sight,  to  be  again  and  again  blocked  out.  Open  water  was  seen  near 
the  land  to  the  southwest  of  us,  and  a  tortuous  channel  through  the 
broken  ice  to  leeward,  apparently  leading  to  it.  All  sail  was  immedi- 
ately crowded;  we  passed  rapidly  through,  and  found  ourselves  again  in 
clear  water,  which  reached  to  the  shores :  the  barrier  extending  in  a 
line  with  our  course,  about  two  miles  to  windward,  and  a  clear  channel 
to  the  northwest,  about  two  miles  wide,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 
Seeino;  this,  I  remarked  to  one  of  the  officers  that  it  would  have  been 

O 

a  good  place  to  drift  in  during  the  last  gale, — little  thinking  that  in  a 
few  short  hours  it  would  serve  us  for  that  purpose,  in  still  greater  need. 
A  brisk  gale  ensued,  and  the  ship  ran  at  the  rate  of  nine  or  ten  miles 
an  hour ;  one  reef  was  taken  in  the  topsails,  and  we  stood  directly  in 
for  the  most  southerly  part  of  the  bay. 

This  bay  was  formed  partly  by  rocks  and  partly  by  ice-islands. 
The  latter  were  aground,  and  on  the  western  side  of  the  bay  extended 
about  five  miles  to  the  northward  of  our  position. 

While  we  stood  on  in  this  direction  the  gale  increased,  and  our 
room  became  so  circumscribed  that  we  had  not  time  on  any  one  tack 
to  reduce  our  canvass,  before  it  became  necessary  to  go  about.  In 
this  way  we  approached  within  half  a  mile  of  the  dark,  volcanic 
rocks,  which  appeared  on  both  sides  of  us,  and  saw  the  land  gradually 
rising  beyond  the  ice  to  the  height  of  three  thousand  feet,  and  entirely 
covered  with  snow.  It  could  be  distinctly  seen  extending  to  the  east 
and  west  of  our  position  fully  sixty  miles.  I  make  this  bay  in  longi- 
tude 140°  02'  30"  E.,  latitude  66°  45'  S. ;  and,  now  that  all  were  con- 
vinced of  its  existence,  I  gave  the  land  the  name  of  the  Antarctic 
Continent.  Some  of  the  officers  pointed  out  the  appearance  of  smoke, 
as  if  from  a  volcano,  but  I  was  of  opinion  that  this  was  nothing  but 
the  snow-drift,  caused  by  the  heavy  squalls.  There  was  too  much 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  317 

wind  at  this  time  to  tack ;  I  therefore  had  recourse  to  luffing  the  vessel 
up  in  the  wind,  and  wore  her  short  round  on  her  heel.  At  the  same 
time  we  sounded,  and  found  a  hard  bottom  at  the  depth  of  no  more 
than  thirty  fathoms.  I  made  a  rough  sketch  of  this  bay,  which  I  have 
called  Piner's  Bay,  after  the  signal  quarter-master  of  that  name.  It 
was  impossible  to  lower  a  boat,  or  to  remain  longer ;  indeed,  I  felt  it 
imperative  on  me  to  clear  its  confined  space  before  the  floating  ice 
might  close  it  up. 

At  10h  30m  we  had  gone  round,  and  in  an  hour  more  we  cleared  the 
bay.  At  noon  the  wind  had  increased  to  a  gale,  and  by  one  o'clock, 
p.  M.,  we  were  reduced  to  storm-sails,  with  our  top-gallant  yards  on 
deck.  The  barometer  had  again  declined  rapidly,  proving  a  true 
indicator,  but  giving  little  or  no  warning.  To  run  the  gauntlet  again 
among  the  icebergs  was  out  of  the  question,  for  a  large  quantity  of 
field-ice  would  have  to  be  passed  through,  which  must  have  done  us 
considerable  damage,  if  it  did  not  entirely  disable  us.  The  clear  space 
we  occupied  was  retained  until  five  or  six  o'clock,  when  I  found  the 
floe-ice  was  coming  down  upon  us ;  1  then  determined  to  lay  the  ship 
for  a  fair  drift  through  the  channel  I  had  observed  in  the  morning,  and 
which  I  had  every  reason  to  believe,  from  the  wind  (southeast)  blow- 
ing directly  through  it,  would  not  be  obstructed  until  the  floe-ice  came 
down.  It  was  a  consolation  to  know  that  if  we  were  compelled  to 
drift,  we  should  do  so  faster  than  the  ice;  I  therefore  thought  it  as 
well  to  avoid  it  as  long  as  possible.  Another  reason  determined  me 
to  delay  the  drifting  to  the  latest  moment :  I  did  not  believe  that  the 
extent  of  the  channel  we  had  seen  in  the  morning  was  more  than  ten 
miles  in  extent,  and  at  the  rate  we  drifted,  the  end  of  it  would  be 
reached  long  before  the  gale  was  over.  This,  like  the  former  gale, 
was  an  old-fashioned  snow-storm.  All  the  canvass  we  could  show  to 
it  at  one  time  was  a  close-reefed  main-topsail  and  fore-storm-staysail. 
It  blew  tremendously,  and  the  sea  we  experienced  was  a  short  dis- 
agreeable one,  but  nothing  to  be  compared  to  that  which  accompanied 
the  first  gale.  From  the  shortness  of  the  sea,  I  inferred  that  we  had 
some  current.  This  state  of  things  continued  for  several  hours,  during 
which  we  every  moment  expected  to  reach  the  end  of  our  channel. 
Since  the  last  gale,  the  whole  crew,  officers  and  men,  had  been  put  in 
watch  and  watch,  ready  for  an  instantaneous  call,  and  prepared  for 
rapid  movements.  The  snow  was  of  the  same  sleety  or  cutting 
character  as  that  of  the  previous  day,  and  seemed  as  if  armed  with 
sharp  icicles  or  needles. 

The  31st  brought  no  moderation  of  the  weather.  At  1  A.  M.,  a 
group  of  ice-islands  was  reported,  and  shortly  afterwards  field-ice  close 


318  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

under  our  lee.  We  wore  ship  instantly,  and  just  avoided  coming  in 
contact  with  the  latter.  Sail  was  immediately  made  on  the  ship,  and 
the  scene  of  the  former  gale  again  gone  through  (which  it  is  needless 
here  to  repeat),  with  this  exception,  that  we  were  now  passing  to  and 
fro  among  icebergs  immediately  to  windward  of  the  barrier,  and  each 
tack  brought  us  nearer  to  it.  Between  4  and  5  A.  M.,  our  space  was 
becoming  confined,  and  there  was  no  abatement  of  the  gale;  I  there- 
fore, as  it  had  cleared  sufficiently  to  enable  us  to  see  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  determined  to  bear  up  and  run  off  north-northwest  for  a  clear 
sea.  In  doing  this  we  passed  icebergs  of  all  dimensions  and  heavy 
floe-ice.  By  8h  30m  we  had  run  thirty  miles,  when,  finding  a  more 
open  sea,  I  judged  we  had  partially  cleared  the  ice.  At  noon  the  gale 
still  continued.  The  lowest  reading  of  the  barometer  during  this  gale 
was  28-59  in. 

After  lasting  thirty  hours,  the  gale,  at  6  p.  M.,  began  to  moderate  a 
little,  when  we  again  made  sail  to  the  southward.  I  now  felt  inclined 
to  seek  Piner's  Bay  again,  in  order  to  effect  a  landing.  This  would 
have  been  a  great  personal  gratification ;  but  the  bay  was  sixty  miles 
distant,  so  that  to  revisit  it  would  occupy  time  that  was  now  precious  ; 
and  feeling  satisfied  that  a  great  extent  of  land  wholly  unknown  lay 
to  the  westward,  I  deemed  it  my  duty  to  proceed  to  its  discovery,  not 
doubting  that  if  my  opinions  of  its  existence  were  correct,  a  place 
equally  feasible  for  landing  would  be  found.  Another  subject  also 
presented  itself,  which,  for  a  time,  caused  me  some  anxiety,  and  which 
I  confess  was  not  only  unexpected  by  me,  but  directly  at  variance  with 
my  own  observations  on  the  condition  of  my  crew.  As  I  feel  com- 
pelled to  give  a  complete  detail  of  our  proceedings,  I  must  now  revert 
to  this  subject. 

The  following  report  of  the  medical  officers  of  the  ship  was  made 
to  me  on  the  day  of  its  date. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  January  31st,  1840. 
SIR,— 

It  becomes  our  duty,  as  medical  officers  of  this  ship,  to  report  to  you 
in  writing  the  condition  of  the  crew  at  the  present  time. 

The  number  upon  the  list  this  morning  is  fifteen :  most  of  these  cases 
are  consequent  upon  the  extreme  hardships  and  exposure  they  have 
undergone  during  the  last  gales  of  wind,  when  the  ship  has  been  sur- 
rounded with  ice. 

This  number  is  not  large,  but  it  is  necessary  to  state,  that  the 
general  health  of  the  crew,  in  our  opinion,  is  decidedly  affected,  and 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  319 

that  under  ordinary  circumstances  the  list  would  be  very  much  in- 
creased, as  the  men  under  the  present  exigencies,  actuated  by  a 
laudable  desire  to  do  their  duty  to  the  last,  refrain  from  presenting 
themselves  as  applicants  for  the  list. 

Under  these  circumstances,  we  feel  ourselves  obliged  to  report  that, 
in  our  opinion,  a  few  days  more  of  such  exposure  as  they  have  already 
undergone,  would  reduce  the  number  of  the  crew  by  sickness  to  such 
an  extent  as  to  hazard  the  safety  of  the  ship  and  the  lives  of  all  on 
board. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servants, 

(Signed)        J.  L.  Fox, 

J.  S.  WHITTLE, 

Assistant-Surgeons. 
To  CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ., 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Although  my  own 'opinion,  as  I  have  stated,  differed  from  that 
expressed  in  the  report,  I  deemed  it  my  duty  to  ask  the  opinion  of  the 
ward-room  officers,  and  also,  in  order  to  procure  additional  medical 
advice,  restored  to  duty  Acting-Surgeon  Gilchrist,  who  was  under 
suspension.  The  opinion  of  the  ward-room  officers  was  asked  in  a 
written  circular,  of  which  the  following  is  a  copy. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  January  31st,  1840. 
GENTLEMEN, — 

The  receipt  of  the  enclosed  report  of  Drs.  Fox  and  Whittle,  relative 
to  the  health  and  condition  of  the  crew  of  this  ship,  at  this  time, 
renders  it  necessary  for  me  to  decide  whether  it  is  expedient  to  push 
farther  south  in  exploration  under  the  present  circumstances. 

As  you  are  acquainted  with  all  the  circumstances,  it  is  unnecessary 
to  repeat  them,  except  to  remark,  that  your  opinion  is  requested  before 
I  decide  upon  the  course  to  be  pursued,  in  consequence  of  the  strong 
bias  self-interest  might  give  me  in  the  prosecution  of  our  arduous 
duties.  I  wish  the  report  returned  to  me,  and  for  you  to  communicate 
your  opinion  in  writing. 

I  am,  respectfully,  &c., 

CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
To  the  Ward-Room  Officers, 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes. 

The  answers  to  this  letter  will  be  seen  in  Appendix  XXVII. ;  and  it 
is  sufficient  here  to  say,  that  a  majority  concurred  in  opinion  with  the 


320  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

report  of  the  medical  officers.  Notwithstanding  these  opinions,  I  was 
not  satisfied  that  there  was  sufficient  cause  to  change  my  original 
determination  of  passing  along  to  the  appointed  rendezvous ;  and  after 
full  consideration  of  the  matter,  I  came  to  the  conclusion,  at  whatever 
hazard  to  ship  and  crew,  that  it  was  my  duty  to  proceed,  and  not 
give  up  the  cruise  until  the  ship  should  be  totally  disabled,  or  it  should 
be  evident  to  all  that  it  was  impossible  to  persist  any  longer.  In 
bringing  myself  to  this  decision,  I  believe  that  I  viewed  the  case  on  all 
sides  with  fairness,  and  allowed  my  duty  to  my  country,  my  care  for 
those  whom  it  had  committed  to  my  charge,  and  my  responsibility  to 
the  world,  each  to  have  its  due  weight. 

The  weather  now  moderated,  and  I  ordered  sail  to  be  made.  The 
2d  of  February  found  us  about  sixty  miles  to  the  westward  of  Piner's 
Bay,  steering  to  the  southward,  and  as  usual  among  ice-islands,  with 
the  land  in  sight.  The  land  had  the  same  lofty  appearance  as  before. 
We  stood  in  until  3  p.  M.,  when  we  were  within  two  and  a  half  miles 
of  the  icy  cliffs  by  which  the  land  was  bounded  on  all  sides.  These 
were  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  quite 
perpendicular,  and  there  was  no  appearance  whatever  of  rocks ;  all 
was  covered  with  ice  and  snow.  A  short  distance  from  us  to  the 
westward  was  a  long  range  of  icebergs  aground,  which,  contrary  to 
the  usual  appearance,  looked  much  weather-beaten.  We  tried  for 
soundings,  but  did  not  get  any  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms, 
although  the  water  was  much  discoloured.  The  badness  of  the  deep- 
sea  line  was  a  great  annoyance  to  us,  for  deeper  soundings  would  pro- 
bably have  obtained  bottom.  No  break  in  the  icy  barrier,  where  a 
foot  could  be  set  on  the  rocks,  was  observable  from  aloft.  The  land 
still  trended  to  the  westward  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  con- 
tinued to  exhibit  the  same  character  as  before.  Our  longitude  now 
was  137°  02'  E.,  latitude  66°  12'  S. :  we  found  the  magnetic  declina- 
tion westerly. 

This  proved  a  fine  day,  so  that  we  had  an  opportunity  of  airing  the 
men's  bedding,  of  ventilating  the  ship,  and  of  getting  rid  of  the  ice, 
with  which  we  were  much  encumbered.  The  thermometer  varied 
from  33°  to  36°.  Our  sick-list  had  increased  the  last  few  days  to 
twenty ;  many  of  the  men  were  affected  with  boils,  which  rendered 
them  comparatively  useless;  and  ulcers,  which  were  caused  by  the 
least  scratch,  were  exceedingly  prevalent ;  but  their  food  was  good, 
they  had  plenty  of  it,  and  their  spirits  were  excellent.  The  high  land 
was  seen  this  afternoon,  but  the  barrier  along  which  we  were  passing 
prevented  any  nearer  approach.  This  evening  it  was  perceptible  that 
the  days  were  becoming  shorter,  which  was  a  new  source  of  anxiety, 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  321 

for  we  were  often  surrounded  by  numerous  ice-islands,  which  the 
darkness  rendered  more  dangerous. 

Towards  evening  the  weather  became  unsettled,  and  the  3d  of 
February  was  ushered  in  by  another  gale,  accompanied  with  snow. 
The  barometer  fell  lower  than  heretofore,  namely,  to  28-460  in. ;  the 
thermometer  stood  at  33°.  Before  the  thick  snow  came  on,  we  had 
taken  the  bearings  of  the  ice-islands,  and  finding  we  had  a  few  miles 
comparatively  free  from  them,  I  determined  to  await  the  result  of  the 
storm,  and  made  every  thing  snug  to  encounter  it.  The  gale  con- 
tinued throughout  the  day,  and  although  it  moderated  after  5  p.  M.,  we 
had  some  strong  squalls,  but  nothing  so  violent  as  those  we  had  already 
experienced.  The  ship,  in  consequence  of  the  snow,  became  more 
damp  and  uncomfortable,  and  our  sick-list  was  increased  to  thirty, 
who  were  rather  overcome  by  want  of  rest  and  fatigue  than  affected 
by  any  disease.  To  remedy  the  dampness,  a  stove  was  placed  on  the 
gun-deck,  and  fires  kept  burning  in  the  galleys  on  the  berth-deck,  more 
for  the  purpose  of  drying  the  men's  clothes  than  for  warmth.  We 
had  no  observations  this  day,  but  the  dead-reckoning  gave  the  longi- 
tude 134°  E.,  latitude  63°  49'  S. 

The  4th  and  5th  the  weather  continued  the  same.  As  the  winds 
became  lighter  thick  snow  fell,  and  we  were  able  to  see  only  a  short 
distance  from  the  ship.  We  contrived  by  manceuvring  to  retain  our 
position.  On  this  last  day  we  got  a  tolerable  observation,  which  gave 
our  longitude  as  133°  42'  E.,  and  latitude  64°  06'  S. 

The  first  part  of  the  6th  the  same  thick  weather  continued,  but 
towards  4  p.  M.,  it  began  to  clear,  when  we  again  made  sail,  until  we 
saw  and  took  the  bearings  of  the  barrier.  We  found  ourselves  situ- 
ated opposite  the  part  of  it  we  had  seen  three  days  before.  It  still  had 
the  appearance  of  being  attached  to  the  land,  and  in  one  uninterrupted 
line.  Wishing  to  examine  it  closely,  I  hove-to  for  broad  daylight. 
Many  whales,  penguins,  flocks  of  birds,  and  some  seals,  were  reported. 

On  the  7th  we  had  much  better  weather,  and  continued  all  day 
running  along  the  perpendicular  icy  barrier,  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  height.  Beyond  it  the  outline  of  the  high  land  could  be 
well  distinguished.  At  6  p.  M.,  we  suddenly  found  the  barrier  trending 
to  the  southward,  and  the  sea  studded  with  icebergs.  I  now  hauled 
off  until  daylight,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  trending  of  the  land  more 
exactly.  I  place  this  point,  which  I  have  named  Cape  Carr,  after  the 
first-lieutenant  of  the  Vincennes,  in  longitude  131°  40'  E.,  and  latitude 
64°  49'  S. 

On  the  8th,  at  daylight,  we  again  made  sail  to  the  southward,  and 
found  at  4  A.  M.  the  field  of  ice  had  stopped  our  progress,  and  the 

VOL.  n.  41 


322 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


weather  was  thick.  Land  was  no  longer  seen  to  the  south,  a  deep 
bay  apparently  making  in.  We  continued  our  course  to  the  west- 
ward along  the  barrier,  until  8  r.  M.,  when  we  were  again  brought  to. 
At  7  p.  M.  we  had  strong  indications  of  land ;  the  barrier  was  of  the 
former  perpendicular  form,  and  later  the  outline  of  the  Continent  ap- 
peared distinct  though  distant.  The  night  was  dark  and  unpleasant. 
At  noon  our  longitude  was  127°  07'  E.,  and  latitude  65°  03'  S. ;  varia- 
tion 14°  30'  westerly. 

On  the  9th  we  had  the  finest  day  we  had  yet  experienced  on  this 
coast ;  the  wind  had  veered  from  the  east  to  southwest,  and  given  us 
a  clear,  bracing,  and  wholesome  atmosphere.  The  barrier  exhibited 
the  same  appearance  as  yesterday.  Our  longitude  was  125°  19'  E., 
latitude  65°  08'  S.,  variation  32°  45'  westerly.  The  current  was  tried, 
but  none  found  ;  the  pot  was  only  visible  at  five  fathoms ;  the  colour 
of  the  water  a  dirty  green;  the  dip  sector  gave  3'  15".  1  never  saw 
a  clearer  horizon,  or  one  better  defined  than  we  had  to  the  northward. 
The  icy  barrier  was  really  beautiful.  At  midnight  we  had  a  splendid 
display  of  the  aurora  australis,  extending  all  around  the  northern 


horizon,  from  west-by-north  to  east-northeast.     Before  its  appearance, 
a  few  clouds  only  were  seen  in  the  southeast,  on  which  the  setting 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  323 

sun  cast  a  red  tint,  that  barely  rendered  them  visible.  The  horizon, 
with  this  exception,  appeared  clear  and  well  defined.  The  spurs  or 
brushes  of  light  frequently  reached  the  zenith,  converging  to  a  point 
near  it. 

Although  no  clouds  could  be  seen  in  the  direction  of  the  aurora, 
before  or  after  its  appearance,  yet  when  it  was  first  seen,  there 
appeared  clouds,  of  the  form  of  massive  cumuli,  tinged  with  pale 
yellow,  and  behind  them  arose  brilliant  red,  purple,  orange,  and  yellow 
tints,  streaming  upwards  in  innumerable  radiations,  with  all  the  shades 
that  a  combination  of  these  colours  could  effect.  In  its  most  brilliant 
state  it  lasted  about  twenty  minutes.  The  gold-leaf  electrometer  was 
tried,  but 'without  being  affected :  the  instrument,  however,  was  not 
very  sensitive.  Being  somewhat  surprised  at  the  vast  mass  of  cumuli 
which  appeared  during  the  continuance  of  the  aurora,  I  watched  after 
its  disappearance  till  daylight,  but  could  see  only  a  few  clouds :  I  am 
therefore  inclined  to  impute  the  phenomenon  to  some  deception  caused 
by  the  light  of  the  aurora.  The  apparent  altitude  of  these  clouds 
was  8°. 

On  the  10th  we  were  again  favoured  by  the  weather;  it  gave  us  a 
fine  sunshine,  and  an  opportunity  of  airing  the  ship  and  drying  the 
clothes.  All  the  sick  were  improving  in  health. 

Running  close  along  the  barrier,  which  continued  of  the  same 
character,  although  more  broken  than  yesterday,  we  saw  an  appear- 
ance of  land,  although  indistinctly,  to  the  southward.  The  water  was 
of  the  same  colour  here  as  before,  and  the  wind  being  from  the  south- 
southeast,  we  made  some  progress,  and  found  ourselves  in  longitude 
122°  35'  E.,  latitude  65°  27'  S. :  the  variation  had  now  increased  to 
44°  30'  westerly.  No  aurora  was  seen  this  night,  although  it  was 
looked  for  anxiously. 

llth.  The  barometer  had  been  stationary  at  29-080  in.  for  the  last 
three  days:  it  now  began  to  fall ;  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  31°, 
of  the  water  32°.  The  fall  of  the  barometer  was  soon  followed  by 
snowr  and  thick  weather.  The  trending  of  the  barrier  had  been  south- 
west-by-west,  and  a  good  deal  of  floe-ice  had  been  met  with,  which 
we  ran  through.  The  sea  was  quite  smooth,  and  many  icebergs  were 
enclosed  in  the  barrier,  wyhich  was  very  compact  and  composed  of 
flat  fields.  At  10  p.  M.,  I  found  it  too  dark  to  run,  and  hove-to. 

During  the  12th  we  had  pleasant  weather,  and  at  2  A.  M.  filled  away*. 
At  8  A.  M.,  land  was  reported  to  the  southwest.  Keeping  along  the 
barrier  and  increasing  our  latitude,  I  again  had  hopes  of  getting  near 
the  land.  We  passed  through  great  quantities  of  large  floe-ice  until  1 


324  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

p.  M.,  when  the  solid  barrier  prevented  our  farther  progress.  Land  was 
now  distinctly  seen,  from  eighteen  to  twenty  miles  distant,  bearing 
from  south-southeast  to  southwest, — a  lofty  mountain  range,  covered 
with  snow,  though  showing  many  ridges  and  indentations.  I  laid  the 
ship  to  for  three  hours,  in  hopes  of  discovering  some  opening  or  move- 
ment in  the  ice,  but  none  was  experienced.  I  tried  the  current,  and 
found  none.  The  water  was  of  a  dirty  dark  green.  We  sounded  with 
the  wire-line  in  two  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms,  and  found  no  bottom. 
The  temperature  at  that  depth  was  30£°,  of  the  air  31°.  The  barrier 
had  in  places  the  appearance  of  being  broken  up,  and  we  had  decreased 
our  longitude  to  112°  16'  12"  E.,  while  our  latitude  was  64°  57'  S. 
This  puts  the  land  in  about  65°  20'  S.,  and  its  trending  nearly  east  and 
west.  The  line  of  the  icy  barrier  was  generally  uniform,  although  it 
was  occasionally  pierced  with  deep  bays.  We  saw  some  icebergs 
with  decided  spots  of  earth  on  them,  which  gave  me  hopes  of  yet 
obtaining  the  object  of  my  washes.  The  water  was  remarkably 
smooth  during  this  day,  and  the  weather  clear,  enabling  us  to  see  a 
great  distance.  Two  hours  after  we  bore  away,  we  left  the  floe-ice, 
and  entered  a  clear  sea  to  the  westward,  where  we  lost  sight  of  the 
barrier  for  a  time  ;  but  in  hauling  up  to  the  southwest,  it  was,  by 
8  p.  M.,  within  three  miles  of  us,  when  we  again  kept  off  parallel  to  its 
trending.  The  appearance  of  land  still  continued.  Shortly  after,  I 
hove-to,  for  the  purpose  of  awaiting  the  daylight  to  continue  our 
observations  of  the  land,  with  little  prospect  or  probability  of  reach- 
ing it,  from  the  immense  quantity  of  ice  which  continued  to  form  an 
impenetrable  barrier. 

13th.  At  2  A.M.  we  made  sail  to  the  southwest,  in  order  to  close 
with  the  barrier,  which  we  found  retreated  in  that  direction,  and  gave 
us  every  prospect  of  getting  nearer  to  it.  Our  course,  for  the  most 
part,  was  through  icebergs  of  tabular  form.  In  the  afternoon  we  had 
the  land  ahead,  and  stood  in  for  it  with  a  light  breeze  until  G^  p.  M., 
when  I  judged  it  to  be  ten  or  twelve  miles  distant.  It  was  very 
distinct,  and  extended  from  west-southwest  to  south-southeast.  We 
were  now  in  longitude  106°  40'  E.,  and  latitude  65°  57'  S. ;  the  varia- 
tion was  54°  30'  westerly.  The  water  was  very  green.  We  sounded 
in  three  hundred  fathoms,  and  found  no  bottom.  The  weather  having 
an  unsettled  appearance,  we  stood  off  to  seek  a  clearer  space  for  the 
night.  The  land  left  was  high,  rounded,  and  covered  with  snow, 
resembling  that  first  discovered,  and  had  the  appearance  of  being 
bound  by  perpendicular  icy  cliffs. 

14th.  At  daylight  we  again  made  sail  for  the  land,  beating  in  for  it 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  325 

until  11  A.  M.,  when  we  found  any  further  progress  quite  impossible.  I 
then  judged  that  it  was  seven  or  eight  miles  distant.  The  day  was 
remarkably  clear,  and  the  land  very  distinct.  By  measurement,  we 
made  the  extent  of  coast  of  the  Antarctic  Continent,  which  was  then 
in  sight,  seventy-five  miles,  and  by  approximate  measurement,  three 
thousand  feet  high.  It  was  entirely  covered  with  snow.  Longitude  at 
noon,  100°  18'  42"  E.,  latitude  65°  59'  40"  S.,  variation  57°  05'  westerly. 
On  running  in,  we  had  passed  several  icebergs  greatly  discoloured 
with  earth,  and  finding  we  could  not  approach  the  shore  any  nearer,  I 
determined  to  land  on  the  largest  ice-island  that  seemed  accessible,  to 
make  dip,  intensity,  and  variation  observations.  On  coming  up  with 
it,  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from  where  the  barrier  had  stopped  us,  I 
hove  the  ship  to,  lowered  the  boats,  and  fortunately  effected  a  landing. 
We  found  embedded  in  it,  in  places,  boulders,  stones,  gravel,  sand,  and 
mud  or  clay.  The  larger  specimens  were  of  red  sandstone  and  basalt. 
No  signs  of  stratification  were  to  be  seen  in  it,  but  it  was  in  places 
formed  of  icy  conglomerate  (if  I  may  use  the  expression),  composed  of 
large  pieces  of  rocks,  as  it  were  frozen  together,  and  the  ice  was 
extremely  hard  and  flint-like.  The  largest  boulder  embedded  in  it  was 
about  five  or  six  feet  in  diameter,  but  being  situated  under  the  shelf  of  the 
iceberg,  we  were  not  able  to  get  at  it.  Many  specimens  were  obtained, 
and  it  was  amusing  to  see  the  eagerness  and  desire  of  all  hands  to  possess 
themselves  of  a  piece  of  the  Antarctic  Continent.  These  pieces  were 
in  great  demand  during  the  remainder  of  the  cruise.  In  the  centre  of 
this  iceberg  was  found  a  pond  of  most  delicious  water,  over  which 
was  a  scum  of  ice  about  ten  inches  thick.  We  obtained  from  it  about 
five  hundred  gallons.  We  remained  upon  this  iceberg  several  hours, 
and  the  men  amused  themselves  to  their  hearts'  content  in  sliding. 
The  pond  was  three  feet  deep,  extending  over  an  area  of  an  acre,  and 
contained  sufficient  water  for  half-a-dozen  ships.  The  temperature  of 
the  water  was  31°.  This  island  had  been  undoubtedly  turned  partlv 
over,  and  had  precisely  the  same  appearance  that  the  icy  barrier 
•would  have  exhibited  if  it  had  been  turned  bottom  up  and  subsequently 
much  worn  by  storms.  There  was  no  doubt  that  it  had  been  detached 
from  the  land,  which  was  about  eight  miles  distant.  The  view  of  the 
land,  ice,  &c.,  taken  from  this  ice-island,  is  exhibited  in  the  opposite 
plate,  and  gives  a  correct  representation  of  these  desolate  regions. 

Around  the  iceberg  we  found  many  species  of  zoophytes,  viz. : 
salpee,  a  beautiful  specimen  of  clio  helicina,  some  large  pelagic,  and 
many  small  Crustacea.  I  made  several  drawings  of  them.  This  day, 
notwithstanding  our  disappointment  in  being  still  repelled  from  treading 


326  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

on  the  new  continent,  was  spent  with  much  gratification,  and  gave  us 
many  new  specimens  from  it. 

Finding  that  we  had  reached  the  longitude  of  105°  E.,  before  the 
time  anticipated,  and  being  desirous  to  pursue  the  discoveries  further 
west,  I  left  a  signal  flying  on  this  berg,  with  a  bottle  containing 
instructions  for  the  other  vessels,  directing  them  to  proceed  to  the 
westward  as  far  as  they  could,  in  the  time  which  should  remain  prior 
to  the  1st  of  March.  At  8  p.  M.  we  joined  the  ship,  and  bore  away 
again  to  the  westward,  intending  to  pursue  the  route  pointed  out  to 
them. 

On  the  15th,  we  passed  many  icebergs  much  discoloured  with 
earth,  stones,  &c.,  none  of  which  appeared  of  recent  formation.  The 
weather  this  day  became  lowering,  and  the  breeze  fresh;  we  double- 
reefed  the  topsails,  and  made  every  thing  snug :  the  wind  wras  from 
the  southward.  At  noon  this  day,  we  were  in  longitude  104°  E., 
latitude  64°  06'  S.  The  sea  had  been  remarkably  smooth  the  last 
few  days,  with  no  swell ;  and  I  began  to  entertain  the  idea  that  we 
might  have  a  large  body  of  ice  to  the  northward  of  us,  for  the  position 
where  Cook  found  the  barrier  in  1773  was  two  hundred  miles  further 
to  the  north.  I  determined,  however,  to  pass  on  in  our  explorations, 
hoping  they  might  enable  me  to  join  that  of  Enderby's  Land.  I 
deemed  it  a  great  object  actually  to  prove  the  continuity  with  it  if 
possible;  and  if  disappointed  in  this,  I  should  at  any  rate  ascertain 
whether  there  had  been  any  change  in  the  ice  in  this  quarter,  since 
the  time  of  Cook,  which  had  been  done  already  near  his  Ne  Plus 
Ultra. 

We  had  a  vast  number  of  whales  about  us  this  day,  as  well  as 
penguins,  Cape  pigeons,  white  and  gray,  and  small  and  large  petrels. 
Some  seals  also  were  seen. 

I  was  now  happy  to  find  the  health  of  my  crew  had  become  re- 
established, and  that  only  a  few  remained  on  the  sick-list.  This,  I 
think,  was  effected  by  constant  attention  to  their  being  warmly  clothed. 

The  icebergs  were  covered  with  penguins.  Several  officers  landed 
on  the  icebergs  to  get  a  few  as  specimens.  On  their  return,  some 
penguins  followed  them  closely,  particularly  one,  who  at  last  leaped 
into  the  boat.  It  was  supposed  that  its  mate  had  been  among  those 
taken,  and  that  it  had  followed  on  that  account.  If  this  were  the  fact, 
it  would  show  a  remarkable  instinctive  affection  in  this  bird. 

On  the  16th,  the  barrier  of  ice  trended  to  the  northward,  and  we 
were  obliged  to  haul  to  the  northeast,  passing  through  a  large  number 
of  ice-islands,  many  of  which  were  stained  with  earth.  In  the  after- 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  329 

19th.  During  this  day  the  barrier  trended  more  to  the  northeast, 
and  we  not  unfrequently  entered  bays  so  deep  as  to  find  ourselves,  on 
reaching  the  extremity,  cut  off  by  the  barrier,  and  compelled  to  return 
to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  place  where  we  had  entered.  I  thought 
at  first  that  this  might  have  been  caused  by  the  tide  or  current,  but 
repeated  trials  showed  none.  Neither  did  I  detect  any  motion  in  the 
floating  ice  except  what  was  caused  by  the  wind.  Our  longitude  to- 
day was  101°  E.,  latitude  63°  02'  S.  Some  anxiety  seemed  to  exist 
among  the  officers  and  crew  lest  we  should  find  ourselves  embayed  or 
cut  oft"  from  the  clear  sea,  by  a  line  of  barrier.  There  appeared  strong 
reason  for  this  apprehension,  as  the  smooth  sea  we  had  had  for  several 
days  still  continued;  we  had  been  sailing  as  if  upon  a  river,  and  the 
water  had  not  assumed  its  blue  colour. 

It  was,  therefore,  with  great  pleasure  that,  on  the  20th,  a  slight 
swell  was  perceived,  and  the  barrier  began  to  trend  more  to  the  north- 
ward, and  afterwards  again  to  the  westward.  In  the  morning  we  found 
ourselves  still  surrounded  by  great  numbers  of  ice-islands.  After 
obtaining  a  tolerably  clear  space,  the  day  being  rather  favourable,  we 
sounded  with  the  deep-sea  line  eight  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms.  Six's 
thermometer  gave  at  the  surface  31°,  and  at  the  depth  of  eight  hundred 
and  fifty  fathoms  35°,  an  increase  of  four  degrees.  The  current  was 
again  tried,  but  none  was  found.  A  white  object  was  visible  at  eleven 
fathoms.  The  water  had  now  assumed  a  bluish  cast. 

We  endeavoured  to-day  to  land  on  an  iceberg,  but  there  was  too 
much  sea.  Shrimps  were  in  great  quantities  about  it,  but  swam  too 
deep  to  be  taken.  The  wind  again  hauled  to  the  westward,  which 
disappointed  me,  as  I  was  in  hopes  of  getting  to  the  position  where 
Cook  saw  the  ice  in  1773,  being  now  nearly  in  the  same  latitude.  It 
was  less  than  one  hundred  miles  to  the  westward  of  us;  and  little 
doubt  can  exist  that  its  situation  has  not  materially  changed  in  sixty- 
seven  years. 

The  observations  of  the  squadron  during  this  season's  Antarctic 
cruise,  together  with  those  of  the  preceding  year,  would  seem  to 
confirm  the  opinion  that  very  little  change  takes  place  in  the  line  of 
ice.  It  may  be  inferred  that  the  line  of  perpetual  congelation  exists  in 
a  lower  latitude  in  some  parts  of  the  southern  hemisphere  than  in 
others.  The  icy  barrier  retreats  several  degrees  to  the  south  of  the 
Antarctic  Circle  to  the  west  of  Cape  Horn,  while  to  the  eastward  it  in 
places  advances  to  the  northward  of  that  line,  which  is  no  doubt  owing 
to  the  situation  of  the  land.  From  the  great  quantities  of  ice  to  be 
found  drifting  in  all  parts  of  the  ocean  in  high  southern  latitudes,  I  am 
induced  to  believe  that  the  formation  of  the  ice-islands  is  much  more 

VOL.  ii.  42 


330 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


rapid  than  is  generally  supposed.  The  manner  of  their  formation 
claimed  much  of  my  attention  while  among  them,  and  I  think  it  may 
be  explained  satisfactorily  and  without  difficulty.  In  the  first  place, 
I  conceive  that  ice  requires  a  nucleus,  whereon  the  fogs,  snow,  and 
rain,  may  congeal  and  accumulate ;  this  the  land  affords.  Accident 
then  separates  part  of  this  mass  of  ice  from  the  land,  when  it  drifts  off, 
and  is  broken  into  many  pieces,  and  part  of  this  may  again  join  that 
which  is  in  process  of  formation.  The  sketch  in  Chapter  IX.  has 
already  given  the  reader  some  idea  of  its  appearance  in  this  state. 

From  the  accumulation  of  snow,  such  a  mass  speedily  assumes  a 
flat  or  table-topped  shape,  and  continues  to  increase.  As  these  layers 
accumulate,  the  field-ice  begins  to  sink,  each  storm  (there  of  frequent 
occurrence)  tending  to  give  it  more  weight.  The  part  which  is  now 
attached  to  the  land  remains  aground,  whilst  that  which  is  more 
remote  being  in  deep  water  is  free  to  sink.  The  accumulated  weight 
on  its  outer  edge  produces  fissures  or  fractures  at  the  point  where  it 
takes  the  ground,  which  the  frosts  increase;  thus  separated,  the  surface 
again  becomes  horizontal,  and  continues  to  receive  new  layers  from 
snow,  rain,  and  even  fogs,  being  still  retained  to  the  parent  mass  by 
the  force  of  attraction.  The  fogs  have  no  small  influence  in  con- 
tributing to  the  accumulation :  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the 
increase  from  this  cause,  from  the  fact  that  during  a  few  hours  the  ice 
accumulated  to  the  thickness  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch  on  our  rigging 
and  spars,  though  neither  rain  nor  snow  fell.  It  may,  therefore,  I 
think,  be  safely  asserted  that  these  icebergs  are  at  all  times  on  the 
increase ;  for  there  are  few  days,  according  to  our  experience  in  this 
climate,  in  which  some  mode  of  precipitation  does  not  prevail  in  these 
high  latitudes,  where,  according  to  our  observations,  ice  seldom  melts. 
The  temperature  of  even  the  summer  months  being  rarely  above  the 
freezing  point,  masses  of  a  thousand  feet  in  thickness  might  require 


*•"", 


TABULAR  ICEBERG. 


but  few  years  to  form.     Icebergs  were  seen  in  all  stages  of  formation, 
from  five  to  two  hundred  feet  above  the  surface,  and  each  exposed  its 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


331 


stratification  in  horizontal  layers  from  six  inches  to  four  feet  in  thick- 
ness. When  the  icebergs  are  fully  formed,  they  have  a  tabular  and 
stratified  appearance,  and  are  perfectly  wall-sided,  varying  from  one 
hundred  and  eighty  to  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  in  height.  These 
were  frequently  found  by  us  in  their  original  situation,  attached  to  the 
land,  and  having  the  horizontal  stratification  distinctly  visible. 

In  some  places  we  sailed  for  more  than  fifty  miles  together,  along  a 
straight  and  perpendicular  wall,  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two 
hundred  feet  in  height,  with  the  land  behind  it.  The  icebergs  found 
along  the  coast  afloat  were  from  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  five  miles  in 
length ;  their  separation  from  the  land  may  be  effected  by  severe  frost 
rending  them  asunder,  after  which  the  violent  and  frequent  storms 
may  be  considered  a  sufficient  cause  to  overcome  the  attraction  which 
holds  them  to  the  parent  mass.  In  their  next  stage  they  exhibit  the 
process  of  decay,  being  found  fifty  or  sixty  miles  from  the  land,  and 
for  the  most  part  with  their  surfaces  inclined  at  a  considerable  angle 
to  the  horizon.  This  is  caused  by  a  change  in  the  position  of  the 
centre  of  gravity,  arising  from  the  abrading  action  of  the  waves. 


INCLINED  ICEBERG. 


By  our  observations  on  the  temperature  of  the  sea,  it  is  evident  that 
these  ice-islands  can  be  little  changed  by  the  melting  process  before 
they  reach  the  latitude  of  60°.  The  temperature  of  the  sea  (as 
observed  by  the  vessels  going  to  and  returning  from  the  south), 
showed  but  little  change  above  this  latitude,  and  no  doubt  it  was  at  its 
maximum,  as  it  was  then  the  height  of  the  summer  season. 

During  their  drift  to  the  northward,  on  reaching  lower  latitudes,  and 
as  their  distance  from  the  land  increases,  they  are  found  in  all  stages 
of  decay ;  some  forming  obelisks ;  others  towers  and  Gothic  arches ; 
and  all  more  or  less  perforated  :  some  exhibit  lofty  columns,  with  a 
natural  bridge  resting  on  them  of  a  lightness  and  beauty  inconceivable 
in  any  other  material.  The  following  wood-cut  and  the  tail-pieces  of 
the  chapters  are  sketches  of  some  of  them. 

While  in  this  state,  they  rarely  exhibit  any  signs  of  stratification, 


332 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


and  some  appear  to  be  formed  of  a  soft  and  porous  ice ;  others  are 
quite  blue  ;  others  again  show  a  green  tint,  and  are  of  hard  flinty  ice. 


Large  ice-islands  are  seen  that  retain  their  tabular  tops  nearly  entire 
until  they  reach  a  low  latitude,  when  their  dissolution  rapidly  ensues; 
whilst  some  have  lost  all  resemblance  to  their  original  formation,  and 
had  evidently  been  overturned.  The  process  of  actually  rending 
asunder  was  not  witnessed  by  any  of  the  vessels,  although  in  the 
Flying-Fish,  when  during  fogs  they  were  in  close  proximity  to  large 
ice-islands,  they  inferred  from  the  loud  crashing,  and  the  sudden 
splashing  of  the  sea  on  her,  that  such  occurrences  had  taken  place. 
As  the  bergs  gradually  become  worn  by  the  abrasion  of  the  sea,  they 
in  many  cases  form  large  overhanging  shelves,  about  two  or  three  feet 
above  the  water,  extending  out  ten  or  twelve  feet ;  the  under  part  of 
this  projecting  mass  exhibits  the  appearance  of  a  collection  of  icicles 
hanging  from  it.  The  temperature  of  the  water  when  among  the 
icebergs,  was  found  below  or  about  the  freezing  point. 

I  have  before  spoken  of  the  boulders  embedded  in  the  icebergs.  All 
those  that  I  had  an  opportunity  of  observing,  apparently  formed  a  part 
of  the  nucleus,  and  were  surrounded  by  extremely  compact  ice,  so 
that  they  appear  to  be  connected  with  that  portion  of  the  ice  that 
would  l)e  the  last  to  dissolve,  and  these  boulders  would  therefore  in  all 
probability,  be  carried  to  the  farthest  extent  of  their  range  before  they 
were  let  loose  or  deposited. 

The  ice-islands,  on  being  detached  from  their  original  place  ot 
formation  by  some  violent  storm,  are  conveyed  to  the  westward  by 
the  southeast  winds  which  are  prevalent  here,  and  are  found,  the  first 
season  after  their  separation,  about  seventy  miles  north  of  the  barrier. 
This  was  inferred  from  the  observations  of  both  the  Vincennes  and 
Porpoise,  the  greatest  number  having  been  found  about  that  distance 
from  the  barrier.  That  these  were  recently  detached  is  proven  by 
their  stratified  appearance ;  while  those  at  a  greater  distance  had  lost 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  333 

their  primitive  form,  were  much  worn,  and  showed  many  more  signs 
of  decay.  Near  the  extreme  point  of  the  barrier  visited,  in  longitude 
97°  E.,  latitude  02°  30'  S.,  and  where  it  begins  to  trend  to  the  west- 
ward, vast  collections  of  these  islands  were  encountered.  From  this 
point  they  must  pass  to  the  northward  during  the  next  season,  partly 
influenced  by  the  current,  and  partly  scattered  by  the  prevailing  winds, 
until  they  reach  the  sixtieth  degree  of  latitude,  when  they  encounter 
the  easterly  and  north-easterly  streams  that  are  known  to  prevail, 
which  carry  them  rapidly  to  the  north. 

Our  data  for  their  actual  drift,  though  not  altogether  positive,  are 
probably  the  best  that  can  be  had,  and  will  go  far  towards  ascertain- 
ing the  velocity  of  their  progress  to  lower  latitudes;  our  observations 
also  furnish  some  estimate  of  the  time  in  which  they  are  formed.  On 
our  way  south,  we  did  not  fall  in  with  ice-islands  until  we  reached 
latitude  61°  S.  The  Peacock  was  the  first  to  return,  and  nearly  upon 
the  track  by  which  we  had  gone  south ;  the  last  seen  by  her  was  in 
55°  S.  The  Vincennes,  on  her  return  fifty  days  later,  saw  them  in 
51°  S.  The  Porpoise,  about  the  same  time,  in  53°  S.  The  observa- 
tion in  the  Vincennes  gives  a  distance  of  ten  degrees  of  latitude,  or 
six  hundred  miles  to  be  passed  over  in  fifty  days,  which  would  give 
about  half  a  mile  an  hour ;  or,  taking  the  Peacock's  observations,  a 
more  rapid  rate  would  be  given,  nearly  three-fourths  of  a  mile.  Many 
icebergs  were  met  in  the  latitude  of  42°  S.,  by  outward-bound  ships  to 
Sydney,  in  the  month  of  November  ;  these,  I  learned,  were  much  worn, 
and  showed  lofty  pinnacles,  exhibiting  no  appearance  of  having  ever 
been  of  a  tabular  form.  These  no  doubt  are  such  as  were  detached 
during  a  former  season,  and  being  disengaged  from  the  barrier,  would 
be  naturally,  early  the  next  season,  drifted  by  the  easterly  current  as 
well  as  the  westerly  wind,  and  would  pursue  the  direction  they  give 
them.  They  would  therefore  be  driven  to  the  northeast  as  far  as  the 
southwest  winds  prevail,  and  when  these  veer  to  the  westward  would 
receive  an  easterly  direction.  It  is  where  these  winds  prevail  that 
they  are  most  frequently  found  by  the  outward-bound  vessels, — be- 
tween the  latitudes  of  40°  and  50°  S. 

Respecting  the  period  of  time  required  for  the  formation  of  these 
ice-islands,  much  light  cannot  be  expected  to  be  thrown  on  the  subject ; 
but  the  few  facts  derived  from  observations  lead  to  some  conclusions. 
Many  of  them  were  measured,  and  their  altitude  found  to  be  from 
fifty  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet ;  eighty  distinct  stratifications 
were  counted  in  some  of  the  highest,  and  in  the  smallest  thirty, 
which  appeared  to  average  a  little  more  than  two  feet  in  thickness. 


334  ANTARCTICCRUISE. 

Supposing  the  average  fall  of  snow  in  these  high  latitudes  to  be  an  inch 
a  day,  or  thirty  feet  a  year,  the  largest  icebergs  would  take  more  than 
thirty  years  to  form.  They  were  seen  by  us  in  all  the  stages  of  their 
growth,  and  all  bore  unequivocal  marks  of  the  same  origin.  The  dis- 
tance from  the  land  at  which  they  were  forming,  fully  satisfied  me  that 
their  fresh  water  could  only  be  derived  from  the  snows,  &c. 

The  movement  of  the  ice  along  the  coast  is  entirely  to  the  west- 
ward, and  all  the  large  ranges  of  ice-islands  and  bergs  were  found  in 
that  direction,  while  the  eastern  portion  was  comparatively  free  from 
it.  A  difference  was  found  in  the  position  of  the  floe-ice  by  the 
different  vessels,  caused  rather  by  the  wind  than  by  the  tide.  When 
the  Vincennes  and  Porpoise  passed  the  opening  by  which  the  Peacock 
entered,  it  was  found  closed,  although  only  twenty-four  hours  had 
elapsed.  It  has  been  seen  that  the  ice  had  much  movement  during  the 
time  the  Peacock  was  beset  by  it,  and  the  bay  was  all  but  closed  when 
she  effected  her  escape.  Another  instance  occurred,  where  the  Por- 
poise, in  about  the  longitude  of  130°  E.,  found  the  impracticable 
barrier  a  few  miles  further  south  than  the  Vincennes  did  six  or  seven 
days  after ;  but  this  fact  is  not  to  be  received  as  warranting  any 
general  conclusion,  on  account  of  the  occurrence  of  southeast  gales 
during  the  intermediate  time.  The  trials  for  currents  have,  for  the 
most  part,  shown  none  to  exist.  The  Porpoise,  it  is  true,  experienced 
some,  but  these  were  generally  after  a  gale.  If  currents  do  exist,  their 
tendency  is  westward,  which  I  think  the  drift  of  the  ice  would  clearly 
prove.  The  difference  between  the  astronomic  positions  and  those 
given  by  dead-reckoning,  was  of  no  avail  here  as  a  test,*  for  the 
courses  of  the  vessels  among  the  ice  were  so  tortuous,  that  the  latter 
could  not  be  depended  upon. 

The  winds  which  prevail  from  the  southwest  to  the  southeast  occa- 
sionally bring  clear  weather,  interrupted  by  flurries  of  snow  ;  the  north 
wind  is  light,  and  brings  thick  fogs,  attended  by  a  rise  of  temperature. 
Extremes  of  weather  are  experienced  in  rapid  succession,  and  it  is 
truly  a  fickle  climate. 

The  evidence  that  an  extensive  continent  lies  within  the  icy  barrier, 
must  have  appeared  in  the  account  of  my  proceedings,  but  will  be,  I 
think,  more  forcibly  exhibited  by  a  comparison  with  the  aspect  of  other 
lands  in  the  same  southern  parallel.  Palmer's  Land,  for  instance, 
which  is  in  like  manner  invested  with  ice,  is  so  at  certain  seasons  of 


*  The  fact  of  there  being  no  northerly  current  along  this  extended  line  of  coast,  is  a 
etrong  proof  in  my  mind  of  its  being  a  continent,  instead  of  a  range  of  islands. 


ANTARCTIC   CRUISE.  335 

the  year  only,  while  at  others  it  is  quite  clear,  because  strong  currents 
prevail  there,  which  sweep  the  ice  off  to  the  northeast.  Along  the 
Antarctic  Continent  for  the  whole  distance  explored,  which  is  upwards 
of  fifteen  hundred  miles,  no  open  strait  is  found.  The  coast,  where  the 
ice  permitted  approach,  was  found  enveloped  with  a  perpendicular 
barrier,  in  some  cases  unbroken  for  fifty  miles.  If  there  was  only  a 
chain  of  islands,  the  outline  of  the  ice  would  undoubtedly  be  of  another 
form ;  and  it  is  scarcely  to  be  conceived  that  so  long  a  chain  could 
extend  so  nearly  in  the  same  parallel  of  latitude.  The  land  has  none 
of  the  abruptness  of  termination  that  the  islands  of  high  southern  lati- 
tudes exhibit ;  and  I  am  satisfied  that  it  exists  in  one  uninterrupted  line 
of  coast,  from  Ringgold's  Knoll,  in  the  east,  to  Enderby's  Land,  in  the 
west ;  that  the  coast  (at  longitude  95°  E.)  trends  to  the  north,  and  this 
will  account  for  the  icy  barrier  existing,  with  little  alteration,  where  it 
was  seen  by  Cook  in  1773.  The  vast  number  of  ice-islands  conclu- 
sively points  out  that  there  is  some  extensive  nucleus  which  retains 
them  in  their  position ;  for  I  can  see  no  reason  why  the  ice  should  not 
be  disengaged  from  islands,  if  they  were  such,  as  happens  in  all  other 
cases  in  like  latitudes.  The  formation  of  the  coast  is  different  from 
what  would  probably  be  found  near  islands,  soundings  being  obtained 
in  comparatively  shoal  water ;  and  the  colour  of  the  water  also  indi- 
cates that  it  is  not  like  other  southern  lands,  abrupt  and  precipitous. 
This  cause  is  sufficient  to  retain  the  huge  masses  of  ice,  by  their  being 
attached  by  their  lower  surfaces  instead  of  their  sides  only. 

Much  inquiry  and  a  strong  desire  has  been  evinced  by  geologists,  to 
ascertain  the  extent  to  which  these  ice-islands  travel,  the  boulders  and 
masses  of  earth  they  transport,  and  the  direction  they  take. 

From  my  own  observations,  and  the  information  I  have  collected, 
there  appears  a  great  difference  in  the  movements  of  these  vast  masses ; 
in  some  years,  great  numbers  of  them  have  floated  north  from  the 
Antarctic  Circle,  and  even  at  times  obstructed  the  navigation  about 
the  capes.  The  year  1832  was  remarkable  in  this  respect ;  many 
vessels  bound  round  Cape  Horn  from  the  Pacific,  were  obliged  to  put 
back  to  Chili,  in  consequence  of  the  dangers  arising  from  ice ;  while, 
during  the  preceding  and  following  years,  little  or  none  was  seen:  this 
would  lead  to  the  belief,  that  great  changes  must  take  place  in  the 
higher  latitudes,  or  the  prevalence  of  some  cause  to  detach  the  ice- 
islands  from  the  barrier  in  such  great  quantities  as  to  cover  almost  the 
entire  section  of  the  ocean,  south  of  the  latitude  50°  S.  Taking  the 
early  part  of  the  (southern)  spring,  as  the  time  of  separation,  we  are 
enabled  to  make  some  estimate  of  the  velocity  with  which  they  move : 


336  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

many  masters  of  vessels  have  met  them,  some  six  or  seven  hundred 
miles  from  the  barrier,  from  sixty  to  eighty  days  after  this  period, 
which  will  give  a  near  approximation  to  our  results  heretofore 
stated. 

The  season  of  1839  and  '40  was  considered  as  an  open  one,  from 
the  large  masses  of  ice  that  were  met  with  in  a  low  latitude,  by  vessels 
that  arrived  from  Europe  at  Sydney :  many  of  them  were  seen  as  far 
north  as  latitude  42°  S. 

The  causes  that  prevail  to  detach  and  carry  them  north,  are  difficult 
to  assign.  I  have  referred  to  the  most  probable  ones  that  would 
detach  them  from  the  parent  mass  in  their  formation.  Our  frequent 
trials  of  currents,  as  has  been  stated,  did  not  give  us  the  assurance  that 
any  existed ;  but  there  is  little  doubt  in  my  mind  that  they  do  prevail. 
I  should  not,  however,  look  to  a  surface  current  as  being  the  motive 
power  that  carries  these  immense  masses  at  the  rate  they  move ;  com- 
paratively speaking,  their  great  bulk  is  below  the  influence  of  any 
surface  current,  and  the  rapid  drift  of  these  masses  by  winds  is  still 
more  improbable ;  therefore  I  conceive  we  must  look  to  an  under 
current  as  their  great  propeller.  In  one  trial  of  the  deep-sea  thermo- 
meter, we  found  the  temperature  beneath,  four  degrees  warmer  than 
the  surface.  Off  Cape  Horn,  the  under  temperature  was  found  as  cold 
as  among  the  ice  itself;  repeated  experiments  have  shown  the  same  to 
occur  in  the  Arctic  regions.  From  this  I  would  draw  the  conclusion 
that  changes  are  going  on,  and  it  appears  to  me  to  be  very  reasonable 
to  suppose,  that  at  periods,  currents  to  and  from  the  poles  should  at 
times  exist ;  it  is  true,  we  most  generally  find  the  latter  to  prevail,  as 
far  as  our  knowledge  of  facts  extends,  but  we  have  not  sufficient  infor- 
mation yet  to  decide  that  there  is  not  a  reflow  towards  the  pole ;  the 
very  circumstance  of  the  current  setting  from  the  higher  latitudes, 
would  seem  a  good  argument  that  there  must  be  some  counter-current 
to  maintain  the  level  of  the  waters.  These  masses,  then,  are  most 
probably  carried  away  in  the  seasons  when  the  polar  streams  are  the 
strongest,  and  are  borne  along  by  them  at  the  velocity  with  which 
they  move :  that  these  do  not  occur  annually  may  be  inferred  from 
the  absence  of  ice-islands  in  the  lower  latitudes ;  and  that  it  is  not 
from  the  scarcity  of  them,  those  who  shared  the  dangers  of  the 
Antarctic  cruise,  will,  I  have  little  doubt,  be  ready  to  testify ;  for, 
although  great  numbers  of  them  studded  the  ocean  that  year,  yet  the 
narrative  shows  that  vast  numbers  of  them  were  left. 

The  specific  gravity  of  the  ice  varies  very  much,  as  might  naturally 
be  expected;  for  while  some  of  it  is  porous  and  of  a  snowy  texture, 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  337 

other  islands  are  in  great  part  composed  of  a  compact  blue  flinty  ice. 
This  difference  is  occasioned  by  the  latter  becoming  saturated  with 
water,  which  afterwards  freezes. 

On  the  ice  there  was  usually  a  covering  of  about  two  feet  of  snow, 
which  in  places  had  upon  it  a  crust  of  ice  not  strong  enough  to  bear 
the  weight  of  a  man.  Those  ice-islands,  which  after  having  been 
once  seen  were  again  passed  through  immediately  after  a  gale,  were 
observed  to  be  changed  in  appearance  ;  but  though  for  forty-eight 
hours  a  severe  storm  had  been  experienced,  they  had  not  undergone  so 
great  a  transformation  as  not  to  be  recognised.  They  also  appeared 
to  have  shifted  their  position  with  regard  to  one  another,  their  former 
bias  and  trendings  being  broken  up. 

During  our  stay  on  the  icy  coast,  I  saw  nothing  of  what  is  termed 
pack-ice, — that  is,  pieces  forced  one  upon  the  other  by  the  action  of 
the  sea  or  currents. 

On  the  21st,  the  weather  became  unsettled,  with  light  westerly  winds, 
and  we  made  but  little  progress  to  the  westward.  The  barrier,  at  6 
p.  M.,  was  seen  trending  to  the  westward.  In  consequence  of  indica- 
tions that  threatened  bad  weather,  I  deemed  it  useless  risk  to  remain  in 
the  proximity  of  so  many  ice-islands ;  and  a  strong  breeze,  with  squally 
weather,  having  already  set  in,  I  took  advantage  of  it,  feeling  satisfied 
that  our  farther  continuance  in  this  icy  region  would  not  only  be 
attended  with  peril  to  the  ship,  but  would  cause  a  waste  of  the  time 
which  was  demanded  by  my  other  duties ;  and  having  nearly  three 
thousand  miles  to  sail  to  our  next  port  (Bay  of  Islands),  I  made  up  my 
mind  to  turn  the  head  of  the  vessel  northward. 

I  therefore  had  the  officers  and  crew  called  aft,  thanked  them  all 
for  their  exertions  and  good  conduct  during  the  trying  scenes  they  had 
gone  through,  congratulated  them  on  the  success  that  had  attended 
us,  and  informed  them  that  I  had  determined  to  bear  up  and  return 
north. 

Having  only  twenty-five  days'  full  allowance  of  water,  I  ordered  its 
issue  to  be  reduced  to  half  allowance. 

I  have  seldom  seen  so  many  happy  faces,  or  such  rejoicings,  as  the 
announcement  of  my  intention  to  return  produced.  But  although  the 
crew  were  delighted  at  the  termination  of  this  dangerous  cruise,  not  a 
word  of  impatience  or  discontent  had  been  heard  during  its  continu- 
ance. Neither  had  there  been  occasion  for  punishment ;  and  I  could 
not  but  be  thankful  to  have  been  enabled  to  conduct  the  ship  through 
so  difficult,  and  dangerous  a  navigation  without  a  single  accident,  with 
a  crew  in  as  good,  if  not  in  a  better  condition  than  when  we  first- 

VOL.  n.  43 


338 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


reached  the  icy  barrier.  For  myself,  I  indeed  felt  worse  for  the 
fatigues  and  anxieties  I  had  undergone ;  but  I  was  able  to  attend  to  all 
my  duties,  and  considered  myself  amply  repaid  for  my  impaired  health 
by  the  important  discoveries  we  had  made,  and  the  success  that  had 
attended  our  exertions. 

I  shall  now  leave  the  Vincennes  to  pursue  her  route  northward,  and 
return  to  the  Porpoise,  the  result  of  whose  proceedings  will  be  detailed 
in  the  following  chapter. 


ICE-ISLAND. 


CHAPTER  XL 


CONTENTS. 

PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  PORPOISE  FROM  THE  TWENTY-SECOND  TO  THE  THIRTIETH  OF 
JANUARY  —  FRENCH  SQUADRON  SEEN  — ITS  COMMANDER  REFUSES  TO  SPEAK  THE 
PORPOISE  — PROCEEDINGS  UP  TO  THE  THIRD  OF  FEBRUARY— GALE— FURTHER  PRO- 
CEEDINGS TO  THE  TWELFTH  OF  FEBRUARY  —  SPECIMENS  OF  ROCK  OBTAINED  — 
WESTERN  LIMIT  OF  HER  CRUISE— RETURN  TO  THE  EASTWARD— PORPOISE  STANDS 
TO  THE  NORTHWARD  —  AUCKLAND  ISLANDS— PORPOISE  ARRIVES  AT  THE  BAY  OF 
ISLANDS  —  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLYING  -  FISH  —  LANDING  AT  MACdUARIE'S  ISLAND  — 
PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  FLYING-FISH  UP  TO  THE  FOURTH  OF  FEBRUARY— STATE  OF 
HER  CREW-THEIR  LETTER  TO  LIEUTENANT  PINKNEY— HE  RESOLVES  TO  RETURN- 
ARRIVAL  OF  THE  FLYING -FISH  AT  THE  BAY  OF  ISLANDS  — EVENTS  DURING  THE 
RETURN  OF  THE  VINCENNES— SHE  FAILS  TO  REACH  VAN  DIEMEN'S  LAND-ARRIVAL 
OF  THE  VINCENNES  AT  SYDNEY— PEACOCK  FOUND  THERE  — RETURN  OF  THE  PEA- 
COCK  FROM  THE  ICY  BARRIER— SHE  MAKES  MACdUARIE'S  ISLAND— SHE  ARRIVES  AT 
SYDNEY— STATE  OF  THE  PEACOCK— HOSPITALITIES  RECEIVED  AT  SYDNEY. 


(339) 


CHAPTER    XL 

ANTARCTIC    CRUISE  —  CONTINUED. 

1840. 

ON  the  22d  January,  the  Porpoise  lost  sight  of  the  Peacock,  and 
continued  beating  to  the  southwest.  The  weather  was  extremely 
cold ;  sea-water  froze  on  being  a  few  minutes  in  the  bucket  on  deck. 
Some  shrimps  were  caught.  The  water  at  3  p.  M.  was  much  dis- 
coloured; got  a  cast  of  the  lead  with  two  hundred  fathoms:  no 
bottom ;  found  the  current  south-by-east  three-fourths  of  a  mile  per 
hour.  At  4h  30m,  passed  large  icebergs,  one  of  which  had  several 
dark  horizontal  veins,  apparently  of  earth,  through  it ;  large  quantities 
of  floe  and  drift-ice  to  the  southward;  the  sea  very  smooth.  A  report 
of  high  land  was  made  this  morning;  indeed  every  thing  indicated 
the  proximity  of  land.  The  number  of  seals,  whales,  penguins, 
shrimps,  &c.,  had  very  much  increased.  The  pure  white  pigeons 
were  also  seen  in  numbers. 

23d.  Countless  icebergs  in  sight ;  the  sea  quite  smooth ;  not  the 
slightest  motion  perceptible.  At  meridian,  they  were  in  latitude 
66°  44'  S.,  longitude  151°  24'  E.,  and  close  to  the  barrier,  which 
appeared  quite  impenetrable,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  from  aloft, 
to  the  north-northwest  and  north-northeast,  with  numberless  immense 
ice-islands  entangled  and  enclosed  in  it  in  all  directions.  The  position 
they  occupied  seemed  an  inlet  of  elliptical  shape,  with  an  opening  to 
the  north.  It  was  needless  to  count  the  many  scattering  islands  of  ice 
distinct  from  the  vast  chain ;  intermingled  with  field-ice,  they  studded 
the  gulf  like  so  many  islands,  of  various  shapes  and  dimensions.  At 
2h  25m,  a  sail  was  discovered  on  the  lee  bow ;  kept  off  to  communi- 
cate, supposing  it  to  be  the  Vincennes  or  Peacock.  At  2h  30m,  the 

(341) 


312  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

Peacock  was  made  out  on  the  southern  board,  showing  no  disposition 
to  communicate ;  showed  our  colours,  and  hauled  to  the  westward. 

24th.  The  day  was  remarkably  fine,  such  as  is  seldom  experienced 
in  this  region.  The  water  appeared  much  discoloured  and  of  a  dirty 
olive-green  colour.  At  meridian,  they  again  made  the  field-ice,  and 
tacked  to  the  northward,  passing  through  large  quantities  of  ice- 
islands  ;  weather  looking  bad,  with  occasional  light  snow-storms. 

25th.  Part  of  this  day  was  clear  and  pleasant,  though  snow  fell  at 
intervals ;  the  field-ice  was  in  sight  several  times,  and  many  ice- 
islands  of  great  size  and  beauty.  Penguins  were  swimming  round, 
and  also  several  shoals  of  black-fish ;  a  black  albatross  was  shot ; 
towards  night  the  weather  became  very  thick ;  they  were  in  longitude 
150°  E.,  latitude  65°  56'  S. 

2Gth.  Fresh  winds  blowing  from  the  eastward ;  during  the  first  few 
hours,  a  thick  snow-storm ;  at  4  A.  M.  it  cleared ;  at  six  o'clock  made 
a  sail ;  the  strange  sail  fired  a  gun  and  made  signal,  when  we  bore 
down  and  spoke  her;  she  proved  to  be  the  Vincennes ;  compared 
chronometers,  and  received  rate ;  bore  off  to  the  westward  under  all 
sail ;  found  the  drift  and  floe-ice  very  thick,  and  were  wrilh  great  diffi- 
culty enabled  to  navigate  through  it ;  wind  fresh,  with  a  long  swell 
from  the  southwest ;  at  5h  30m,  the  ice  increasing  in  quantity,  found  it 
was  necessary  to  haul  off.  Lost  sight  of  the  Vincennes;  weather  very 
threatening.  The  course  during  the  day  proved  a  very  tortuous  one ; 
many  penguins  resting  on  the  ice ;  their  gait  is  an  awkward  kind  of 
strut. 

Received  orders  to-day  by  signal  to  meet  the  Vincennes  along  the 
icy  barrier  between  the  20th  and  28th  of  next  month. 

27th.  This  day  proved  clear  and  cold ;  wind  from  the  southwest ; 
ice  forming  rapidly  on  the  vessel ;  at  meridian,  lost  sight  of  the 
Vincennes;  very  many  ice-islands  in  sight;  latitude  65°  41'  S.,  longi- 
tude 142°  31'  E.  On  this  day,  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold 
determined  with  the  fair  wind  to  pass  to  the  extreme  limit  of  his 
orders,  longitude  105°  E. ;  being  of  opinion  he  would  thereby  save 
time,  and  be  enabled  more  effectually  to  examine  the  barrier  with 
what  he  thought  would  be  found  the  prevailing  wind,  viz. :  that  from 
the  westward  ;  in  this,  however,  he  was  mistaken. 

The  28th  set  in  with  a  light  breeze  from  east-northeast ;  made  all 
sail;  at  5  A.  M.,  wind  increasing  rapidly,  snow  falling  fast,  and  weather 
becoming  thick  ;  at  six  o'clock,  made  the  floe  and  drift-ice ;  shortened 
sail,  and  hauled  off  to  the  northwest,  it  becoming  so  thick  as  to  render 
any  advance  unsafe ;  until  meridian,  very  strong  winds  from  the  east- 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  343 

ward,  the  brig  under  close-reefed  topsails ;  at  2  p.  M.  found  it  difficult 
and  hazardous  to  proceed,  passing  within  a  short  distance  of  ice- 
islands,  and  just  seeing  them  dimly  through  the  obscurity;  at  three, 
the  brig  was  hove-to,  and  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  says,  in 
reference  to  their  situation — 

"  I  felt  great  anxiety  to  proceed,  but  the  course  was  so  perilous,  the 
extent  and  trend  of  the  barrier  so  uncertain,  I  could  not  reconcile  it 
with  prudence  to  advance.  The  frequent  falling  in  with  fields  of 
drift-ice,  the  numerous  and  often  closely-grouped  chains  of  icebergs, 
were  sufficient  to  point  out  discretion.  The  long-extended  barrier 
was  encountered  in  latitude  65°  08'  S. ;  at  twelve  to-day  our  position 
was  65°  16'  S. ;  it  is  easy  to  perceive  the  possibility  of  a  trend 
northerly  again,  which  would  have  placed  us  in  a  large  and  dangerous 
gulf,  with  a  heavy  gale  blowing  directly  on,  without  a  hope  of  escape. 

"  At  8  p.  M.,  blowing  very  heavy ;  the  snow  falling  rendered  vision 
beyond  a  few  yards  impossible ;  I  have  seldom  experienced  a  heavier 
blow,  and  towards  the  conclusion  the  squalls  were  severe  and  frequent." 

The  barometer  at  3  A.  M.,  stood  at  28-200  in.,  the  lowest  point  it 
reached  during  the  gale.  The  temperature  of  the  air  was  26°. 

The  severe  gale  continued  during  the  29th,  with  a  heavy  sea,  and 
snow  falling  thickly ;  at  8  A.  M.  the  gale  abated,  and  the  clouds  broke 
away ;  through  the  day  the  sun  occasionally  out ;  the  weather  ap- 
peared unsettled ;  the  sun  set  red  and  fiery ;  the  latitude  was  observed 
64°  46'  S.,  longitude  137°  16'  E. 

On  the  30th  they  stood  again  to  the  southwest ;  at  2  A.  M.  they  made 
the  barrier  of  field-ice,  extending  from  southeast  to  west,  when  it 
became  necessary  to  haul  more  to  the  northwest ;  the  weather  be- 
coming thick  with  a  heavy  fall  of  snow,  at  four  o'clock,  the  wind 
increasing,  compelled  them  to  shorten  sail ;  at  7h  30™  the  ice  in  fields 
was  discovered  close  aboard,  heading  west ;  at  this  time  hauled  imme- 
diately on  a  wind  to  the  northeast,  and  soon  passed  out  of  sight  of  the 
ice  and  out  of  danger ;  during  the  day  blowing  a  gale  of  wind,  and 
very  heavy  sea  running,  passing  occasional  ice-islands ;  at  meridian, 
being  clear  of  the  barrier,  the  brig  was  hove-to  under  storm-sails,  to 
await  the  clearing  of  the  weather.  In  the  afternoon  the  weather 
showed  signs  of  clearing ;  the  sun  coming  out,  again  made  sail  to 
approach  the  barrier ;  no  ice  in  sight ;  great  numbers  of  black  petrels 
about. 

At  4  p.  M.  discovered  a  ship  ahead,  and  shortly  after  another  was 
made,  both  standing  to  the  noithward  ;  the  brig  hauled  up  to  the  north- 
west, intending  to  cut  them  off  and  speak  them,  supposing  them  to  be 
the  Vincennes  and  the  Peacock ;  shortly  afterwards  they  were  seen  to 


344  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

be  strangers,  being  smaller  ships  than  our  own;  at  4h  30m  the  Porpoise 
hoisted  her  colours.  Knowing  that  an  English  squadron  under  Captain 
Ross  was  expected  in  these  seas,  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold 
took  them  for  his  ships,  and  was,  as  he  says,  "  preparing  to  cheer  the 
discoverer  of  the  North  Magnetic  Pole." 

"  At  4h  50m,  being  within  a  mile  and  a  half,  the  strangers  showed 
French  colours:  the  leeward  and  sternmost  displayed  a  broad  pen- 
nant; concluded  now  that  they  must  be  the  French  discovery  ships 
under  Captain  D'Urville,  on  a  similar  service  with  ourselves :  desirous 
of  speaking  and  exchanging  the  usual  and  customary  compliments 
incidental  to  naval  life,  I  closed  with  the  strangers,  desiring  to  pass 
within  hail  under  the  flag  ship's  stern.  While  gaining  fast,  and  being 
within  musket-shot,  my  intentions  too  evident  to  excite  a  doubt,  so  far 
from  any  reciprocity  being  evinced,  I  saw  with  surprise  sail  making 
by  boarding  the  main  tack  on  board  the  flag-ship.  Without  a  moment's 
delay,  I  hauled  down  my  colours  and  bore  up  on  my  course  before  the 
wind." 

It  is  with  regret  that  I  mention  the  above  transaction,  and  it  cannot 
but  excite  the  surprise  of  all  that  such  a  cold  repulse  should  have  come 
from  a  French  commander,  when  the  officers  of  that  nation  are  usually 
so  distinguished  for  their  politeness  and  attention.  It  was  with  no 
small  excitement  I  heard  the  report  of  it, — that  the  vessels  of  two 
friendly  powers,  alike  engaged  upon  an  arduous  and  hazardous  service, 
in  so  remote  a  region,  surrounded  with  every  danger  navigators  could 
be  liable  to,  should  meet  and  pass  without  even  the  exchange  of 
common  civilities,  and  exhibit  none  of  the  kind  feelings  that  the  situa- 
tion would  naturally  awaken: — how  could  the  French  commander 
know  that  the  brig  was  not  in  distress  or  in  want  of  assistance  ?  By 
refusing  to  allow  any  communication  with  him,  he  not  only  committed 
a  wanton  violation  of  all  proper  feeling,  but  a  breach  of  the  courtesy 
due  from  one  nation  to  another.  It  is  difficult  to  imagine  what  could 
have  prompted  him  to  such  a  course. 

At  6  p.  M.  the  weather  again  was  thick,  with  the  wind  southeasterly; 
field-ice  again  in  sight ;  it  commenced  snowing  and  the  French  ships 
were  lost  sight  of.  At  8  p.  M.,  they  passed  in  sight  of  large  fields  of 
ice  and  ice-islands;  at  10h  30m,  the  snow  falling  so  dense  and  the 
weather  so  thick,  that  it  was  impossible  to  see  the  brig's  length  in  any 
direction ;  she  was  hove-to,  to  await  a  change  of  weather. 

The  beginning  of  the  31st  the  gale  continued  ;  at  7  A.  M.  moderating, 
they  again  made  sail  to  the  westward ;  in  half  an  hour  discovered  a 
high  barrier  of  ice  to  the  northward,  with  ice-islands  to  the  south- 
ward; at  10  A.  M.,  they  found  themselves  in  a  great  inlet  formed  by 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  345 

vast  fields  of  ice,  which  they  had  entered  twelve  hours  previously ;  the 
only  opening  appearing  to  the  eastward,  they  were  compelled  to 
retrace  their  steps,  which  they  effected  at  8  p.  M.,  passing  some  ice- 
islands  which  they  recognised  as  having  been  seen  the  evening  before. 
They  now  found  themselves  out  of  this  dangerous  position,  and, 
passing  the  point,  kept  away  to  the  westward.  Lieutenant-Com- 
mandant Ringgold  judged  it  prudent  to  heave-to  during  the  night,  on 
account  of  the  darkness. 

February  1st.  The  immense  perpendicular  barrier  encountered  yes- 
terday was  now  in  sight,  trending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  to  the 
westward;  it  was  of  tabular  form,  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  one 
hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  height,  of  solid  compact  ice,  resembling  a 
long  line  of  coast ;  wind  moderate  from  the  southeast, — a  brilliant 
blink  extending  along  and  elevated  above  the  barrier.  At  4  p.  M.,  they 
arrived  at  the  end  of  this  barrier,  and  found  it  trending  off  to  the 
southward,  seeming  as  if  numbers  of  icebergs  had  been  broken  from 
the  barrier  by  some  mighty  force,  exceeding  in  numbers  any  thing 
that  had  yet  been  seen,  and  extending  as  far  south  as  could  be  dis- 
tinguished, interspersed  with  much  drift  and  floe-ice.  On  the  southern 
horizon  sixty-four  ice-islands  were  counted,  exclusive  of  many  near 
them,  and  those  that  were  not  distinguishable  from  the  barrier. 

The  current  was  tried  here,  and  found  setting  southeast  nearly  a 
mile  an  hour.  Pigeons  around  in  numbers,  also  whales  and  large 
flocks  of  penguins. 

The  nights  now  evidently  lengthened,  thus  adding  to  the  cares  and 
anxieties  attendant  on  this  navigation.  It  was  fortunate  that  the  pre- 
vailing winds  were  from  the  southeast  and  southwest,  or  coming  off 
the  ice.  If  they  had  blown  from  the  northward,  they  would  have  been 
attended  with  danger,  and  might  have  proved  fatal  to  the  vessel. 

2d.  At  meridian,  in  longitude  130°  36'  E.,  and  latitude  65°  24'  S. 
They  were  prevented  from  proceeding  farther  to  the  southward  by  the 
impenetrable  icy  barrier.  At  this  time  they  had  one  hundred  large 
ice-islands  in  sight,  without  counting  any  of  the  smaller  bergs,  which 
were  innumerable;  saw  great  numbers  of  penguins  and  some  seals 
(Phoca  proboscida).  The  current  was  tried  here,  and  found  setting 
as  yesterday,  and  at  the  same  rate. 

At  8  p.  M.,  were  obliged  to  retrace  their  steps  to  the  northward,  the 
weather  becoming  thick,  with  light  snow.  At  eleven,  constant  and 
thick  snow-storm,  and  unable  to  see  any  distance ;  the  gale  continuing, 
lay-to  under  a  close-reefed  main-topsail.  The  vignette,  from  a  sketch 
by  Mr.  Totten  will  give  some  idea  of  her  situation. 

VOL.  ii.  44 


346 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE 


3d.  A  gale  from  southeast,  heavy  sea  rising ;  occasionally  passing 
ice-islands  and  field-ice.  The  gale  continued  throughout  the  day,  but 
moderated  towards  midnight;  the  sea  was  heavy,  the  weather  thick, 
and  the  brig  completely  covered  with  ice  and  snow.  The  barometer 
fell  to  28-040  in.  Temperature  of  the  air  32°- 

4th.  Although  the  wind  was  moderate,  yet  it  was  so  thick  and  foggy 
as  to  preclude  bearing  up.  Towards  meridian  it  cleared  sufficiently 
for  them  to  bear  up  and  continue  their  examinations.  To  day  the 
current  was  found  west-northwest,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  per  hour. 

On  the  5th  they  had  a  beautiful  day, — no  climate  or  region,  Lieu 
tenant-Commandant  Ringgold  remarks,  could  have  produced  a  finer 
this  gave  them  an  opportunity  of  thoroughly  drying  every  thing  and 
ventilating  the  vessel,  which  was  much  required ;  standing  to  the 
northward,  in  order  to  make  a  long  board  to  the  westward  ;  the  longi- 
tude 127°  08'  E.,  latitude  63°  22'  S. ;  few  ice-islands  in  sight,  and 
those  appeared  much  worn,  showing  marks  of  rapid  decay,  with 
isolated  pieces, — some  standing  erect,  while  others  were  inclined, 
resembling  fragments  of  columns  and  broken  arches.  This  night 
there  was  a  brilliant  display  of  the  aurora  australis  :  at  eleven  o'clock 
there  was  perceived  in  the  northern  horizon  a  luminous  arched  cloud, 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  347 

at  15°  of  altitude,  extending  from  northwest  to  northeast;  the  stars 
were  partially  obscured  in  the  direction  of  the  clouds  ;  the  pale  flashes 
or  coruscations  vanishing  very  suddenly,  were  succeeded  by  spiral 
columns  or  streamers,  converging  with  great  velocity  towards  the 
zenith ;  brilliant  flashes  would  again  issue  forth  from  the  remote  parts 
of  the  cloud,  succeeded  in  quick  succession  by  perpendicular  rays 
emanating  from  the  cloud,  having  the  shape  of  a  rounded  column  or 
basaltic-shaped  cylinder,  which  in  contrast  with  the  dark  cloud  showed 
in  broad  relief.  As  the  cloud  seemed  to  rise,  the  scene  became  a  most 
interesting  one,  from  the  varied  and  oft-changing  coruscations :  finally 
the  arc  assumed  a  contracted  and  elliptical  form,  vivid  streamers 
bursting  forth  as  if  from  a  corona,  converging  all  towards  the  zenith, 
until  they  were  lost  in  the  coming  day.  The  magnetic  needle  did  not 
show  any  disturbance.  The  barometer  stood  stationary  during  its 
continuance.  The  sympiesometer  indicated  a  slight  fall.  At  the  time 
there  was  no  wind  ;  the  stars  were  brilliant,  and  all  visible. 

6th.  During  this  day  they  had  light  winds ;  pursued  their  course  to 
the  westward  ;  wind  from  the  southward.  In  the  afternoon  they  had 
light  flurries  of  snow,  and  at  times  hail ;  the  sea  perfectly  smooth,  and 
few  icebergs  in  sight.  Longitude  125°  32'  E.,  latitude  63°  34'  S. 

During  the  7th,  the  winds  variable ;  at  eight  tacked  to  the  southward, 
in  order  to  close  in  with  the  barrier ;  the  wind  again  hauling,  tacked  ; 
the  number  of  icebergs  increasing;  all  those  seen  for  the  few  days 
past  have  appeared  variously  shaped,  much  worn  and  fractured, 
some  evidently  overturned,  and  immense  arches  or  caves  washed  in 
them ;  they  were  totally  distinct  from  those  seen  to-day. 

8th.  A  brisk  breeze  from  the  southward,  which  carried  them  on 
rapidly  to  the  westward.  At  meridian,  discovered  compact  fields  of 
ice,  with  many  stupendous  ice-islands  enclosed  within  it;  the  ice 
appeared  more  broken  than  any  hitherto  seen,  with  many  fragments 
of  icebergs  resembling  spires  and  broken  columns.  Altered  their 
course  to  clear  the  barrier,  and  by  two  o'clock  they  had  extricated 
themselves.  Penguins,  whales,  brown  pigeons,  and  the  black  alba- 
tross, were  seen  near  the  barrier.  In  the  afternoon  the  snow  fell  in 
beautiful  shining  spiculas,  resembling  stars,  usually  of  six,  but  some- 
times of  twelve  points  :  they  varied  from  one-eighth  to  one-sixteenth  of 
an  inch  in  diameter. 

The  barrier  was  occasionally  seen,  and  the  ice-islands  began  again 
to  assume  a  tabular  form ;  towards  the  close  of  the  day,  very  many 
whales,  penguins,  &c.,  seen.  Longitude  116°  E.,  latitude  64°  01'  S. 

On  the  9th,  fresh  breezes  from  the  southeast;  at  10  A.  M.  made  the 
barrier  again,  the  weather  being  favourable ;  at  4  p.  M.  standing  along 


348  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

the  barrier,  through  drift-ice,  with  countless  icebergs  in  sight ;  good 
observations  were  obtained,  placing  them  in  longitude  112°  41'  E.,  and 
latitude  64°  55'  S.  At  10  p.  M.,  some  few  appearances  of  the  aurora 
australis  in  the  northern  sky,  light  coruscations  streaming  upwards, 
but  quite  faint,  and  only  for  a  very  short  period;  many  stars  and 
several  constellations  were  traced  without  difficulty.  The  sea  was 
smooth ;  lowered  a  boat  to  try  the  current,  but  found  none.  The  dip 
was  83°  30'. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th  the  weather  cleared  off,  and  gave  them 
an  opportunity  of  ventilating  the  vessel ;  closed  in  with  the  field-ice  for 
the  purpose  of  obtaining  a  supply  of  water,  and  the  boats  were 
despatched  to  take  in  ice;  the  longitude  was  found  to  be  110°  34'  E., 
latitude  65°  12'  S. ;  the  field-ice  here  was  found  to  be  interspersed  with 
many  large  ice-islands  and  bergs.  At  five  o'clock  the  boats  returned 
with  ice.  The  current  was  found  to  be  setting  north-northeast,  five 
fathoms  an  hour ;  the  weather  continued  clear  and  healthful ;  made  the 
field-ice  ahead  and  on  the  lee  bow  ;  shortly  after,  cleared  it.  The  twilight 
in  the  southern  horizon  presented  a  beautiful  appearance,  a  bright 
salmon  colour  radiating  from  the  sun,  throwing  its  tints  over  the  whole 
sky,  tinging  the  few  cirro-stratus  clouds  that  were  in  the  northern 
quarter,  and  giving  a  soft  colour  to  the  immense  ice-islands  that  were 
slumbering  along  the  barrier,  and  aiding  to  lend  to  the  scene  its  pecu- 
liar character  of  silence,  solitude,  and  desolation. 

The  weather  was  clear  and  pleasant  on  the  llth,  with  a  light  wind 
from  the  southeast ;  many  penguins  and  whales  were  seen.  The  ice- 
bergs were  numerous,  and  some  of  great  beauty,  with  almost  regularly 
turned  arches,  and  of  the  most  beautiful  aqua-marine  tints.  Longitude 
was  100°  10'  E.,  latitude  65°  28'  S. 

During  the  morning  of  the  12th,  running  along  high  broken  fields  of 
ice,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  southward;  weather  overcast;  dis- 
covered a  large  piece  of  ice  of  a  dark  brown  colour  floating  by,  resem- 
bling a  piece  of  dead  coral ;  lay-to,  and  sent  a  boat  to  bring  it  along- 
side ;  obtained  from  it  several  pieces  of  granite  and  red  clay,  which 
were  frozen  in ;  the  ice  was  extremely  hard  arid  compact,  composed 
of  alternate  layers  of  ice  and  snow;  the  strata  of  snow  was  filled  with 
sand.  The  icebergs  near  at  the  time  presented  signs  of  having  been 
detached  from  land,  being  discoloured  by  sand  and  mud.  A  number 
of  white  procellaria  were  obtained.  The  ice-islands  again  appeared  in 
great  numbers.  At  3  r.  M.  hauled  up,  steering  westerly  into  a  very 
deep  inlet  or  gulf,  formed  by  extensive  fields  of  ice.  Believing  from  the 
indications  of  the  morning  that  land  could  not  be  far  off,  in  approaching 
the  head  of  this  inlet,  several  icebergs  had  the  appearance  of  being  in 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  349 

contact  with  the  land,  having  assumed  a  dark  colour  from  the  clay  and 
sand  blown  upon  them ;  the  whole  group  around  seemed  as  if  in  the 
vicinage  of  land ;  sounded  with  two  hundred  fathoms :  no  bottom  ;  also 
tried  the  current,  but  found  none.  Towards  night,  it  becoming  thick 
with  snow,  they  continued  under  snug  sail,  intending  to  examine  more 
closely  the  barrier  and  inlets  in  the  morning. 

13th.  At  3  A.  M.  they  again  made  sail  to  the  westward,  with  wind 
from  the  east ;  at  six  o'clock  they  had  snow-squalls,  rendering  it 
unsafe  to  proceed,  and  impossible  to  make  any  discovery.  A  few 
hours  afterwards  the  weather,  cleared  a  little;  made  sail  again  to  the 
northwest.  At  meridian  overcast,  with  a  stiff  southeast  breeze ;  at 
lh  30ra,  approached  to  within  pistol-shot  of  the  barrier,  observing  much 
of  the  dark  dirty  ice  interspersed  with  the  field-ice ;  kept  along  it  very 
closely,  tracing  the  barrier  northerly ;  observed  a  large  black  object 
on  the  ice ;  shortened  sail,  and  despatched  a  boat :  it  proved  to  be  a 
large  mass  of  black,  red,  and  mixed-coloured  earth,  resting  upon  a 
base  of  snow  and  ice,  situated  some  fifty  yards  back  from  the  margin 
of  the  field-ice,  and  was  found  to  be  red  earth,  mixed  with  granite  and 
sandstone.  Penguins  were  also  procured  alive.  At  3  p.  M.  they  again 
followed  the  trend  of  the  ice  in  a  northwesterly  direction  ;  a  vast  field, 
of  uninterrupted  extent,  seemed  moving  along  to  the  westward,  the 
large  icebergs  containing  dark  and  discoloured  masses,  with  frequent 
strata  of  the  same  description.  They  were  still  at  a  loss  to  account 
for  these  frequent  signs  of  land ;  discoloured  pieces  of  ice  seemed 
mingled  with  the  general  mass ;  they  were  often  seen  along  its  margin, 
and  appeared  as  though  the  icebergs  had  been  turned  over,  presenting 
collections  as  if  from  the  bottom.  Great  numbers  of  sperm  whales 
were  seen  this  day.  At  8  p.  M.  they  passed  out  northwardly  with  a 
light  breeze  and  smooth  sea,  through  an  extensive  chain  of  icebergs, 
which  seemed  grouped  off  the  western  point  of  the  barrier:  upwards 
of  one  hundred  of  them  were  counted,  several  of  which  were  very 
much  discoloured.  The  sunset  was  brilliant,  bright  crimson  tints 
illuminating  the  icebergs,  and  producing  a  beautiful  effect. 

On  the  14th,  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  having  passed  a 
few  degrees  beyond  his  instructions,  that  is,  having  reached  longitude 
100°  E.,  and  latitude  64°  15'  S.,  now  commenced  his  return,  in  order 
to  examine  those  places  in  the  barrier  which  he  had  been  prevented 
from  doing  on  his  way  west. 

15th.  Continued  their  course  to  the  eastward.  Lieutenant-Comman- 
dant Ringgold  frequently  refers  to  the  happy  and  cheerful  condition 
of  his  crew,  and  their  freedom  from  all  disease. 

On  the  16th  and  17th,  they  were  employed  in  getting  to  the  east- 


350  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

ward,  passing  many  worn  and  shattered  bergs.  On  the  evening  of 
the  latter  day,  they  had  another  exhibition  of  the  aurora  australis, 
extending  from  north-northwest  to  east ;  it  was  of  a  light  straw-colour, 
but  very  indistinct ;  the  luminous  bank  was  at  an  elevation  of  30°. 
The  light  in  the  northwest  was  most  distinct,  radiating  from  a  nucleus 
above  the  horizon  towards  the  zenith,  where  it  formed  a  beautiful  halo. 
It  was  not  of  long  duration.  Many  ice-islands  and  bergs  in  sight. : 
upwards  of  two  hundred ;  nearly  all  of  a  tabular  form, — the  sides  of 
many  of  them  beautifully  excavated  by  the  waves,  presenting  innume- 
rable Gothic  arches,  extending  often  to  a  considerable  distance  into 
the  body  of  the  ice. 

Their  position  on  the  18th  was  in  longitude  114°  17'  E.,  latitude 
62°  37'  S.  Flocks  of  black-birds  were  very  numerous,  but  not  near 
enough  to  be  taken. 

On  the  19th  and  20th,  proceeding  to  the  eastward.  On  the  20th, 
they  had  but  few  ice-islands  in  sight,  although  they  were  seventy  miles 
further  south  than  on  the  18th,  when  the  largest  number  ever  seen  by 
them  at  one  time  was  visible ;  having  reached  the  longitude  of  120° 
E.,  they  again  steered  south,  to  make  the  barrier.  The  current  was 
tried,  but  none  found. 

The  21st  proved  stormy,  with  strong  breezes  from  the  southeast, 
and  much  snow  and  rain,  which  covered  the  brig  with  ice.  Field-ice 
was  seen  ahead,  when  they  again  stood  to  the  eastward,  longitude 
being  121°  30'  E.,  latitude  65°  15'  S.  On  this  night  they  experienced 
a  heavy  gale,  during  which  the  barometer  fell  to  27-50  in.,  where  it 
remained  during  part  of  the  22d.  The  squalls  were  very  severe, 
accompanied  with  snow,  sleet,  hail,  and  heavy  seas;  they  had  now 
reached  longitude  122°  E.,  and  latitude  64°  09'  S. 

February  22d,  being  Washington's  birthday,  the  colours  were  hoisted, 
and  the  crew  received  an  extra  allowance.  Lieutenant-Commandant 
Ringgold  took  this  occasion  to  express  to  them  his  satisfaction  for  the 
manner  in  which  they  had  performed  their  duties  during  the  present 
cruise,  and  that  their  conduct  would  be  duly  represented  to  the 
Commander  of  the  Expedition,  and  the  government. 

On  the  23d  the  weather  was  again  thick,  with  snow  and  mist. 

On  the  24th  they  had  reached  longitude  126°  E.,  and  latitude  64° 
29'  S.  On  this  day  they  again  sighted  the  barrier ;  when,  having 
completed  what  he  deemed  a  full  execution  of  his  instructions,  Lieu- 
tenant-Commandant Ringgold  determined  to  put  the  brig's  head  north, 
— which  was  accordingly  done. 

Strong  winds  and  gales  continued  for  the  next  three  days.  On  the 
27th  they  again  found  themselves  in  east  variation,  in  longitude  138° 


ANTARCTICCRUISE.  35 1 

E.,  latitude  60°  08'  S.  The  white  albatross  had  now  again  become 
common. 

On  the  29th,  they  had  a  beautiful  display  of  the  aurora  australis ; 
the  whole  southern  hemisphere  was  covered  with  arches  of  a  beautiful 
straw-colour,  from  which  streamers  radiated,  both  upwards  and  down- 
wards, of  almost  a  lustrous  white;  numbers  of  concentric  arches  would 
occasionally  show  themselves,  of  a  width  of  a  few  feet,  uniting  to  form 
a  complete  canopy  for  a  moment,  and  then  vanish.  The  arches 
extended  from  east-southeast  to  west-northwest ;  the  display  continued 
for  over  two  hours ;  the  stars  were  seen  above  them.  Previous  to,  and 
during  its  continuance,  the  thermometer  indicated  a  change  of  four 
degrees,  and  the  wind  shifted  to  the  southward. 

On  the  1st  of  March,  in  latitude  55°  S.,  and  longitude  140°  E.,  they 
passed  the  last  ice-island. 

On  the  2d,  great  numbers  of  pyrosoma  of  large  size  were  passed. 

On  the  4th,  some  faint  appearances  of  the  aurora  australis  were 
seen. 

On  the  5th,  the  Lord  Auckland  Isles  were  descried.  Mr.  Totten, 
who  was  officer  of  the  deck,  was  accidentally  knocked  overboard  by 
the  trysail-boom,  but  was  fortunately  rescued  without  injury.  Immense 
numbers  of  albatrosses  were  about.  The  aurora  was  again  seen  in 
the  southern  hemisphere. 


On  the  7th  they  anchored  in  the  harbour  of  Sarah's  Bosom,  in  twelve 
fathoms  water.  During  their  brief  stay  here,  all  were  actively  em- 
ployed wooding  and  watering,  for  which  this  harbour  affords  a  fine 
opportunity.  Assistant-Surgeon  Holmes  made  several  excursions  on 
the  largest  island,  of  which  he  gives  the  following  account: 

"  I  found  it  very  thickly  covered  with  trees,  in  its  less  elevated  parts; 
as  few  of  them  were  of  any  size,  I  found  no  small  difficulty  in  pene- 
trating and  making  my  way  through  them ;  in  many  places  it  was 
absolutely  impossible.  It  was  only  after  a  long  and  fatiguing  walk, 
that  1  succeeded  in  reaching  the  summit  of  that  part  of  the  island,  near 
which  the  brig  was  anchored,  where  I  found  the  trees  less  numerous 


352  ANTARCTIC   CRUISE. 

A  thick  growth  of  underwood  and  dwarf  bushes,  intermixed  with  ferns 
concealed  the  surface,  rendering  it  difficult  to  walk.  Even  on  the 
places  apparently  most  level,  the  ground  was  very  unequal,  and  a  single 
step  would  sometimes  send  me  nearly  up  to  the  neck  into  a  hollow 
filled  with  large  fern  fronds.  On  the  highest  parts,  the  small  level  spots 
were  covered  only  with  moss,  and  a  description  of  tall  grass,  and  in 
places  also  a  kind  of  grain  grew  abundantly.  The  ground  was  dry 
every  where,  all  the  water  being  found  in  the  streams,  which  were 
numerous  and  pure.  .Near  the  summit,  the  ground  was  perforated  in 
all  directions,  probably  by  birds,  who  rear  their  young  in  these  holes. 
Many  of  the  birds,  principally  procellaria,  were  sitting  on  the  ground : 
they  made  no  effort  to  escape,  but  suffered  themselves  to  be  taken 
without  any  attempt  at  resistance. 

"  The  forest  was  full  of  small  birds,  of  three  or  four  different  species, 
which  were  perfectly  fearless ;  one  little  fellow  alighted  on  my  cap  as 
I  was  sitting  under  a  tree,  and  sang  long  and  melodiously ;  another 
and  still  smaller  species,  of  a  black  colour  spotted  with  yellow,  was 
numerous,  and  sang  very  sweetly ;  its  notes  were  varied,  but  approxi- 
mated more  nearly  to  the  song  of  our  blackbird ;  occasionally  a  note 
or  two  resembled  the  larks.  Hawks  too  were  numerous,  and  might  be 
seen  on  almost  all  the  dead  trees,  in  pairs.  Along  the  sea-coast  were 
to  be  seen  the  marks  of  their  ravages  upon  the  smaller  birds.  The 
sea-birds  were  very  numerous  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  island,  sitting 
upon  the  cliffs  or  hovering  over  the  islet." 

On  the  western  side  of  the  Auckland  Island,  the  under-brush  and 
young  trees  are  exceedingly  thick.  Dr.  Holmes  remarks,  that  it  was 
impossible  to  penetrate ;  that  he  was  occupied  fully  an  hour  in  making 
his  way  for  a  hundred  yards,  where  to  all  appearance  a  human  step 
had  never  before  trodden.  There  was  not  a  vestige  of  a  track ;  old 
trees  were  strewn  about  irregularly,  sometimes  kept  erect  by  the 
pressure  on  all  sides.  Some  trees  were  seen  upwards  of  seventy  feet 
in  height,  although  the  generality  were  only  from  fifteen  to  twenty; 
every  part  of  the  island  was  densely  covered  with  vegetation  ;  the  soil, 
from  the  decomposition  of  vegetable  matter,  had  acquired  considerable 
richness;  specimens  of  all  the  plants  were  collected.  The  botany  of 
these  islands  is  nearly  allied  to  that  of  New  Zealand,  and  will  be  found 
treated  of  in  the  Botanical  Report,  to  which  I  would  refer.  Some 
species  resembling  the  tropical  plants  were  found  here,  viz.,  the  coffea- 
ceous  plants. 

These  islands  have  in  many  places  the  appearance  of  having  been 
raised  directly  from  the  sea ;  the  cliffs  consisted  of  basalt,  and  were 
generally  from  fifty  to  ninety  feet  perpendicular. 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  353 

The  Auckland  Islands  are  the  resort  of  whalers  for  the  purpose  of 
refitting  and  awaiting  the  whaling  season,  which  occurs  here  in  the 
months  of  April  and  May.  Near  the  watering  place  a  commodious 
hut  has  been  erected  by  a  French  whaler.  Near  by  was  another  in 
ruins,  and  close  to  it  the  grave  of  a  French  sailor,  whose  name  was 
inscribed  on  a  wooden  cross  erected  over  it.  Some  attempts  at  form- 
ing a  garden  were  observed  at  one  of  the  points  of  Sarah's  Bosom,  and 
turnips,  cabbage,  and  potatoes,  were  growing  finely,  which,  if  left  un- 
disturbed, will  soon  cover  this  portion  of  the  island ;  to  these  a  few 
onions  were  added.  Besides  the  birds,  the  only  living  creature  was  a 
small  mouse,  one  of  which  Dr.  Holmes  caught :  it  made  no  attempt  to 
get  out  of  his  way,  and  seemed  to  have  no  fear  when  taken ;  being 
consigned  to  a  pocket,  he  soon  contrived  to  escape.  Many  of  the 
smaller  islands  of  this  group  were  visited ;  they  closely  resemble 
the  larger  one.  Penguins  were  numerous  and  of  a  variety  of  colours. 

These  isles  have  a  picturesque,  wild,  steep,  and  basaltic  appearance : 
the  highest  peak  was  estimated  to  be  eight  hundred  feet;  the  smaller 
has  a  less  elevation:  the  general  aspect  of  the  land  resembles  the 
region  around  Cape  Horn.  The  Harbour  of  Sarah's  Bosom  is  not  the 
most  secure ;  that  of  Lawrie's  is  protected  from  all  winds,  and  has  a 
large  and  fine  streamlet  of  water  at  its  head.  The  rocks  are  covered 
with  limpets,  and  small  fish  of  many  varieties  are  caught  in  quantities 
among  the  kelp.  The  crew  enjoyed  themselves  on  chowders  and  fries. 
No  geese  were  seen,  and  the  only  game  observed  were  a  few  gray 
ducks,  snipes,  cormorants,  and  the  common  shag.  The  land  birds  are 
excellent  eating,  especially  the  hawks ;  and  on  the  whole,  it  is  a  very 
desirable  place  at  which  to  refit. 

On  the  9th  of  March  they  had  finished,  and  were  prepared  for  sea, 
but  the  weather  was  threatening  and  caused  them  to  delay.  The 
magnetic  dip  was  found  to  be  73°  47'  30"  S. 

A  whaler,  under  Portuguese  colours,  butcommanded  by  an  English- 
man, arrived,  and  anchored  in  Lawrie's  Cove,  to  await  the  coming  of 
the  whales!  The  night  proved  stormy;  the  wind  at  10h  30m  from  the 
northeast,  blowing  very  heavy  in  puffs.  Towards  noon  it  moderated, 
and  at  2  p.  M.  they  got  under  way,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  north- 
west, and  stood  to  sea. 

The  latitude  of  Sarah's  Bosom  is  50°  38'  S.;  the  longitude  165° 
28'  E. 

On  the  12th  no  current  was  found;  latitude  49°  27'  S.,  longitude 
168°  13'  E.  The  weather  experienced  from  this  port  to  New  Zealand 
was  very  similar  to  that  in  passing  from  Cape  Horn  to  Valparaiso : 
northerly  winds  with  mist  and  fog  prevailing,  with  a  heavy  sea.  On 

VOL.  ii.  45 


354  ANTARCTIC   CRUISE. 

the  17th  they  fell  in  with  the  whale-ship  Mary  and  Martha,  of  Ply- 
mouth, Coffin,  master,  who  informed  them  that  there  were  at  least 
one  hundred  whale-ships  cruising  in  the  neighbouring  seas;  of  these, 
several  were  seen.  This  will  give  some  idea  of  the  number  of  vessels 
employed,  and  how  great  a  capital  is  engaged  in  this  business. 

On  the  18th  they  had  a  gale  from  north-northwest,  which  lasted 
through  the  day,  moderating  at  sunset.  They  were  in  latitude  43°  02' 
S.,  longitude  by  chronometer,  175°  24'  E.  The  barometer  sank  to 
29-30  in.  A  current  was  experienced  setting  northwest,  in  the  direction 
of  Cook's  Straits. 

On  the  20th,  in  latitude  41°  00'  S.,  longitude  177°  R,  the  current 
was  found  setting  northeast-by-north,  half  a  mile  per  hour.  On  the 
22d  and  23d  they  experienced  a  heavy  gale  from  the  southeast,  when 
they  were  in  longitude  179°  35'  E.,  and  latitude  37°  52'  S.;  during  the 
morning  of  the  latter  day  the  wind  hauled  to  the  south-southwest ;  the 
barometer,  at  3  A.  M.,  stood  at  29-10  in.;  the  weather  cleared,  with  the 
wind  at  southwest. 

On  the  26th,  they  reached  and  anchored  in  the  river  Kawa-Kawa, 
in  the  Bay  of  Islands,  off  the  American  consul's,  about  three  miles 
above  its  mouth.  Many  vessels  were  passed  lying  at  anchor  off  the 
town  of  Kororarika.  Here  they  found  the  tender  Flying-Fish ;  all 
well. 

The  cruise  of  the  latter  will  now  be  taken  up  from  the  1st  of 
January,  on  which  day  she  parted  company  with  the  Vincennes,  in 
consequence  of  having  carried  away  a  gaff,  and  being  obliged  to 
shorten  sail,  in  doing  which  their  jib-stay  got  adrift,  and  carried  away 
the  squaresail-yard  before  it  could  be  secured.  The  vessel  was  in  the 
mean  time  exposed  to  a  heavy  sea  beating  over  her,  and  at  midnight 
they  were  compelled  to  heave-to.  They  then  steered  for  the  first 
rendezvous,  Macquarie  Island,  where  they  arrived  on  the  10th,  in  the 
afternoon,  and  saw  the  Peacock,  but  it  becoming  thick,  they  were  not 
seen  by  that  ship. 

On  the  llth,  Acting-Master  Sinclair  landed  for  the  purpose  of 
placing  a  signal  on  the  island,  agreeably  to  instructions.  The  landing 
was  found  difficult  and  dangerous,  and  their  description  of  the  island 
agrees  with  that  heretofore  given  of  it  from  the  notes  of  Mr.  Eld,  as 
being  dreary  and  inhospitable.  Large  numbers  of  penguins,  and  small 
green  and  yellow  paroquets  were  seen.  Near  where  they  landed,  they 
saw  about  twenty  huge  sea-elephants  basking  on  the  rocks,  which  did 
not  seem  to  heed  them ;  when  disturbed,  they  would  only  throw  their 
carcasses  over,  open  their  mouths,  utter  a  loud  growl,  and  go  to  sleep 
again ;  no  measurement  was  taken  of  them,  and  one  which  was  killed 


ANTARCTIC   CRUISE.  355 

could  not  be  taken  in  the  boat.  The  soil  was  soft  and  spongy,  yielding 
to  the  pressure  of  the  feet.  The  staff  and  signal  being  planted,  they 
returned  on  board,  and  now  passed  the  surf  without  difficulty. 

On  the  12th,  they  put  away  for  the  next  rendezvous,  Emerald  Isle. 
They  reached  its  position  on  the  14th,  but  nothing  was  seen  of  it ;  the 
weather  was  thick. 

On  the  16th,  they  kept  off  to  the  southward,  with  the  wind  from 
the  southwest,  accompanied  with  sleet  and  snow.  In  latitude  61°  S., 
longitude  164°  E.,  they  saw  the  first  ice.  The  next  day,  the  19th  of 
January,  the  water  was  very  much  discoloured  ;  got  a  cast  of  the  lead 
in  ninety  fathoms  :  no  bottom ;  passed  a  number  of  icebergs  that  were 
all  flat  on  the  top,  with  perpendicular  sides. 

On  the  21st  they  made  the  icy  barrier,  in  longitude  159°  36'  E.,  and 
latitude  65°  20'  S.  From  the  number  of  icebergs  and  the  frequency 
of  snow-squalls,  they  found  great  danger  in  running  through  them, 
although  the  water  was  quite  smooth. 

On  the  22d  the  weather  proved  pleasant,  and  they  followed  the 
trend  of  the  ice.  The  ice-islands  still  showed  flat  tops  and  perpendi- 
cular sides,  and  there  were  a  number  of  birds,  seals,  and  whales 
around  them;  they  were  at  noon  in  longitude  158°  27'  E.  On  this 
day  they  were  close  by  an  iceberg,  from  the  main  body  of  which  a 
large  mass  fell  with  a  noise  like  thunder ;  the  snow  flying  into  the  air 
resembled  smoke,  and  the  swell  produced  by  the  immersion  of  the 
fragment  caused  the  schooner  to  roll  water  in  on  her  deck.  A  number 
of  large  penguins  were  in  sight,  differing  from  any  they  had  heretofore 
seen. 

On  the  23d  the  weather  was  pleasant,  and  they  had  light  winds  from 
the  southward  and  westward.  Longitude  157°  49'  E.,  latitude  65°  58' 
S.  They  continued  coasting  along  the  ice  in  search  of  an  opening. 
At  8  p.  M.  they  discovered  several  dark  spots,  which  had  the  appear- 
ance of  rocks,  and  on  approaching  the  margin  of  the  ice,  they  could 
make  them  out  to  be  such  with  their  glasses,  but  they  were  situated 
too  far  within  the  field-ice  for  a  boat  to  get  near  them.  This  day 
being  fine,  an  opportunity  was  afforded  of  drying  the  deck  and  clothes, 
and  searing  the  seams  with  a  hot  iron.  The  vessel  had  been  very 
wet,  and  her  decks  leaked  badly,  notwithstanding  the  thorough  calking 
and  repairs  she  had  received  at  Sydney :  the  crew  were  almost  con- 
stantly wet,  below  as  well  as  above  deck. 

On  the  24th  they  were  obliged  to  steer  again  to  the  northward,  in 
consequence  of  making  the  barrier  ahead.  Sea-lions  were  seen  on  the 
ice.  They  continued  to  follow  the  barrier,  which  trended  north-north' 
east ;  the  compasses  were  very  sluggish.  On  the  26th  and  27th  the 


356  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

weather  became  bad,  with  the  wind  to  the  northward  and  westward, 
accompanied  by  a  heavy  fall  of  snow :  in  the  evening  of  the  latter  day, 
the  wind  hauled  to  the  southward  and  westward,  and  brought  clear 
weather.  The  28th  passed  with  clear  weather,  and  several  seals  were 
about  them. 

The  29th  was  thick  and  snowy,  with  a  northeast  wind;  passed 
through  quantities  of  drift-ice,  and  by  2h  30m,  it  had  become  so  thick 
as  to  render  a  continuance  of  their  course  perilous ;  at  7  p.  M.  they 
again  made  the  solid  barrier,  when  it  was  blowing  a  stiff  gale ;  at  Oh 
30m  discovered  the  ice  ahead,  and  on  both  beams;  wore  round  to  the 
northward  and  eastward,  to  retrace  their  steps ;  it  was  not  long  before 
they  discovered  a  chain  of  ice-islands  ahead,  apparently  connected  by 
solid  ice ;  about  midnight  a  passage  was  discovered  between  two  ice- 
bergs, through  which  they  passed.  It  was  now  blowing  a  heavy  gale, 
and  having  gained  the  open  sea,  they  attempted  to  reef  the  foresail,  but 
were  unequal  to  the  task  (four  of  the  men  being  on  the  sick-list),  and 
were  compelled  to  lay-to  under  the  whole  sail,  which  caused  the  vessel 
to  labour  very  much,  as  well  as  to  leak  a  great  deal,  and  endangered 
her  safety  by  making  her  fly  into  the  wind,  and  get  a  sternboard  in  a 
high  sea. 

On  the  30th,  in  the  morning,  the  gale  abated,  and  the  weather 
became  more  pleasant  than  they  had  experienced  for  a  number  of 
days.  They  had  reached  the  longitude  of  150°  16'  E.,  latitude  65°  15 
S.  On  this  day  they  again  passed  into  blue  water. 

31st  January  was  thick  with  snow ;  a  north  wind  and  heavy  sea. 

1st  of  February,  they  were  running  among  ice,  until  they  sighted  the 
barrier,  when  they  again  hauled  to  the  northward ;  a  moderate  gale 
blowing,  with  thick  weather  and  a  heavy  sea,  they  were  obliged  to 
heave-to. 

On  the  2d  and  3d,  they  were  coasting  the  ice.  In  the  afternoon  of 
the  3d  they  again  had  bad  weather,  which  made  it  necessary  to  bring 
to ;  surrounded  by  bergs  and  drift-ice ;  the  latter,  in  case  of  striking, 
would  have  seriously  injured  the  tender.  The  icebergs  seen  on  these 
days,  had  the  appearance  of  recent  formation  ;  the  tops  flat,  the  sides 
perpendicular,  and  not  worn  by  the  action  of  the  sea. 

On  the  4th,  the  gale  continued,  and  the  sea  had  risen  to  an  extra- 
ordinary height ;  the  wreather  was  so  thick  that  an  iceberg  could  not 
be  seen  further  than  twice  the  length  of  the  vessel.  The  tender  was 
under  too  much  sail,  which  caused  her  to  labour  dreadfully,  in  conse- 
quence, of  which  she  leaked  in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  it  necessary 
to  keep  the  pumps  going  almost  continually.  When  they  were  stopped 
for  a  short  time  to  rest  the  men,  the  wrater  increased  so  as  to  reach  the 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  357 

cabin-floor :  the  water  came  through  the  seams  forward  in  such  quan- 
tities as  to  wet  every  bed  and  article  of  clothing  on  the  berth-deck. 
This  was  a  great  addition  to  the  labour  and  discomfort  of  the  crew, 
now  reduced  by  sickness  to  four  men,  and  the  strength  of  these  much 
impaired  by  previous  sickness,  excessive  labour,  and  almost  constant 
exposure.  To  relieve  their  situation  as  much  as  possible,  Lieutenant 
Pinkney  ordered  them  to  make  use  of  the  cabin  in  common  with  the 
officers.  To  ease  the  pitching  of  the  vessel,  a  quantity  of  coal  was 
shifted  aft ;  but  although  this  was  a  partial  relief,  yet  as  she  had  too 
much  sail  on  her,  which  they  had  been  unable  to  reduce  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  gale,  it  was  not  sufficient  to  make  her  easy. 

On  the  5th,  the  gale  began  to  abate,  when  the  crew,  through  one  of 
their  number,  presented  a  communication  to  Lieutenant  Pinkney,  of 
which  the  following  is  a  copy. 

(COPY.) 

"We,  the  undersigned,  the  crew  of  the  Schooner  Flying-Fish,  wish  to 
let  you  know  that  we  are  in  a  most  deplorable  condition:  the  bed- 
clothes are  all  wet ;  we  have  no  place  to  lie  down  in ;  we  have  not  had 
a  dry  stitch  of  clothes  for  seven  days ;  four  of  our  number  are  very 
sick ;  and  we,  the  few  remaining  number,  can  hold  out  no  longer ;  we 
hope  you  will  take  it  into  consideration,  and  relieve  us  from  what  must 
terminate  in  our  death. 

(Signed)     A.  MURRAY.  THOMAS  DARLING. 

JOHN  ANDERSON.    JAMES  DANIELS. 
F.  BEALE.  JOSEPH. 

JAMES  DARLING.     JOHN  H.  WEAVER. 
To  LIEUTENANT  PINKNEV, 

U.  S.  Schooner  Flying-Fish. 

On  the  receipt  of  this  appeal,  Lieutenant  Pinkney  addressed  an  order 
to  the  officers,  a  copy  of  which  follows. 

U.  S.  Schooner  Flying-Fish, 
Lat.  66°  S.,  long.  143°  E.,  Feb.  5th,  18-10, 
GENTLEMEN, — 

You  will  furnish  me  with  your  opinion,  and  the  reasons  which 
induced  that  opinion,  of  the  propriety  of  any  longer  endeavouring  to 
accomplish  that  part  of  the  accompanying  order,  which  refers  to  pene- 
trating to  the  south. 

I  am,  respectfully,  &c., 

R.  F.  PINKNEY, 

To  ACTING  MASTER  GEORGE  T.  SINCLAIR.  Lieutenant-Commandant 

PASSED  MIDSHIPMAN  WILLIAM  MAY. 
PASSED  MIDSHIPMAN  GEORGE  W.  HARRISON. 


358  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

COPY  OF  REPLY. 

U.  S.  Schooner  Flying-Fish, 
Lat.  66°  S.,  long.  143°  E.,  Feb.  5th,  1840. 
SIR,— 

Agreeably  to  your  order  of  this  date,  we,  the  undersigned  officers, 
have  to  express  our  most  thorough  conviction,  that  the  condition  of 
this  vessel's  crew,  and  the  vessel,  loudly  demand  an  immediate  return 
to  milder  latitudes. 

The  causes  of  this  opinion  are  these :  that  the  crew  of  this  vessel, 
consisting  of  fifteen  persons  (four  officers  and  eleven  men),  even  if 
wrell,  are  entirely  inadequate  to  her  safe  management ;  but  five  are 
now  confined  to  sick  beds  (one  a  servant),  one  of  them  is  in  a  very 
critical  state  of  health,  and  three  others  dragging  out  upon  duty, 
complaining,  and  under  medical  treatment.  Out  of  four,  nominally 
performing  duty,  one  of  them,  the  cook,  is  totally  unfit  to  a  turn  at 
the  helm,  and  another  cannot  be  trusted  without  the  closest  watching ; 
indeed,  so  deficient  in  force  are  we,  that  in  the  gale  of  yesterday  and 
the  day  before,  and  on  a  previous  occasion,  when  it  became  extremely 
necessary  to  reef  the  foresail,  the  men  were  so  deficient  in  physical 
strength  as  to  make  it  impossible  to  accomplish  it. 

The  crew's  apartment  is  in  the  most  deplorable  state,  leaking  like  a 
sieve,  all  their  beds  being  wet,  their  clothes  on  them  being  so,  even  to 
their  under  flannels,  for  one  week,  and  without  a  dry  change  on  hand, 
and  no  prospect  of  having  one;  so  miserable  is  their  situation,  that  at 
length  you  have  been  compelled  to  allot  them  the  cabin,  in  common 
with  us,  for  the  purpose  of  cooking,  eating,  and  sleeping. 

Furthermore,  sir,  in  the  gale  now  abating  wre  find  that  nearly 
constant  application  to  the  pump  is  barely  sufficient  to  keep  the  water 
from  flooding  the  cabin-floor,  evidently  having  started  a  leak ;  notwith- 
standing this,  the  condition  of  the  crew  is  more  imperative,  much  more 
so  in  this,  our  recommendation,  for  a  return  to  the  northward  ;  in  fact, 
we  would  cheerfully  continue  to  the  southward,  if  we  had  a  proper  crew. 

Lastly,  understanding  that  the  crew,  through  one  of  their  body, 
have  waited  upon  you,  and,  by  written  application,  also  stated  their 
inability  to  live  through  these  hardships  much  longer,  and  begging 
your  return. 

We  are  respectfully,  your  obedient  servants, 

(Signed)         GEORGE  T.  SINCLAIR, 

Acting  Master. 
WILLIAM  MAY, 

GEORGE  W.  HARRISON, 

Passed  Midshipmen. 
LIEUT.  COM.  R.  F.  PINKNEY, 

Commanding  U.  S.  Schooner  Flying-Fish. 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  359 

Lieutenant  Pinkney,  in  accordance  with  this  opinion,  and  his  own 
conviction  of  the  necessity  of  an  immediate  return  to  milder  latitudes, 
as  the  only  means  of  restoring  the  sick,  and  preserving  those  on  duty, 
who  were  then  incapable  of  managing  the  vessel  without  the  assistance 
of  the  officers,  deemed  it  his  duty  to  steer  for  the  north,  which  he 
accordingly  did. 

The  6th  and  7th  continued  thick,  with  occasional  squalls.  On  the 
8th,  the  weather  again  broke  up,  when  they  had  several  hours  of  sun- 
shine, which  proved  of  great  benefit  to  the  sick.  Lieutenant  Pinkney 
was  enabled  to  come  again  on  deck,  who  had  scarcely  been  able  to 
quit  his  berth  since  leaving  Macquarie  Island,  from  sickness.  They 
had  reached  the  longitude  of  139°  45'  E.,  latitude  61°  S.  At  11  p.  M. 
the  aurora  was  seen ;  it  was  first  visible  in  the  southeast  quarter,  in 
spots  resembling  pale  moonlight,  extending  to  the  zenith,  from  whence 
it  diverged  in  rays,  some  of  which  reached  the  horizon,  but  the  greatest 
number  terminated  at  an  altitude  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  degrees.  On 
the  9th,  the  aurora  was  also  seen  in  the  west,  in  vertical  rays  of  pale 
yellow  light,  commencing  about  five  degrees  above  the  horizon,  and 
extending  to  an  altitude  of  thirty  degrees.  After  a  short  time  it  dis- 
appeared, and  was  again  seen  in  the  zenith,  radiating  in  lines  to  the 
northeast  and  west,  reaching  to  within  ten  degrees  of  the  horizon. 
The  wind  was  from  the  southward.  Temperature  34°.  The  follow- 
ing five  days  they  had  thick  weather,  and  nothing  occurred  until  the 
evening  of  the  14th,  when  they  again  had  a  display  of  the  aurora ;  the 
coruscations  were  frequent  and  brilliant,  but  did  not  exhibit  any  diffe- 
rent form,  until  after  midnight,  when  it  appeared  in  arches,  reaching 
nearly  to  the  horizon,  at  from  45°  to  73°  of  altitude,  and  composed  of 
short  perpendicular  lines,  blending  at  one  moment  into  a  sheet  of  misty 
light,  and  then  breaking  out  into  brighter  lines,  some  of  which  were 
broad.  It  then  again  shifted  to  the  zenith,  with  radiations  extending 
in  every  direction,  in  straight  and  wavy  lines.  The  changes  were 
incessant,  but  not  shooting. 

On  the  morning  of  the  15th,  they  again  had  a  display  of  the  aurora. 
It  first  appeared  in  the  southern  heavens,  at  an  altitude  of  45°,  flashing 
to  the  zenith,  where  it  disappeared.  After  midnight  it  was  again 
visible  in  the  southern  quarter,  at  about  30°  of  altitude.  It  finally 
centered  in  a  bright  spot,  which  changed  into  a  crescent,  with  the 
rounded  side  to  the  northward.  From  this,  feathery-edged  rays  of 
pale  orange-colour  branched  off  in  every  direction,  over  which  the 
prismatic  colours  seemed  to  flit  in  rapid  succession.  The  rays  would 
sometimes  fold  into  one  another  like  a  fan,  and  reach  the  horizon  in 
one  direction,  while  in  another  they  were  drawn  up  to  the  zenith,  again 


360 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


to  burst  forth  in  repetitions,  until  lost  in  daylight.  On  the  19th,  the 
aurora  again  appeared  in  an  arch  of  15°  altitude. 

They  passed  the  last  icebergs  in  latitude  55°  30'  S.,  longitude  145° 
30'  E. 

On  the  22d  they  spoke  a  French  whaler  from  Hobart  Town,  who 
expressed  much  surprise  at  finding  so  small  a  vessel  in  such  high 
latitudes.  The  captain  sent  a  boat  on  board,  and  invited  them  to 
"  soup"  with  him. 

On  the  23d  they  made  the  southern  island  of  New  Zealand.  On 
the  1st  of  March  they  experienced  a  most  violent  gale.  The  wind, 
about  noon  on  the  29th  of  February,  hauled  to  the  southward  and 
eastward,  and  by  midnight  it  blew  a  gale,  hauling  to  the  eastward, 
until  about  8  p.  M.,  when  its  violence  moderated.  Their  latitude  was 
40°  S.,  longitude  178°  30'  E.  For  several  days  previous  to  this,  a 
noise  was  heard  about  the  heel  of  the  main-mast;  an  examination 
was  had,  and  the  conclusion  arrived  at  that  it  worked  in  the  step,  the 
wedges  in  the  partners  having  been  driven  without  obviating  it.  On 
the  9th  of  March  they  arrived  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  where  they  found 
the  gentlemen  who  had  gone  there  to  pursue  their  researches  in  natural 
history  waiting  our  arrival. 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  361 

The  Vincennes  was  left  on  the  21st  of  February  on  her  way  north. 
On  the  night  of  the  22d,  we  had  a  beautiful  and  novel  appearance 
of  the  aurora  australis.  The  sketch  of  it  which  I  made  will  in  some 
measure  convey  an  idea  of  it. 

Black  clouds  were  passing  rapidly  over  the  sky ;  an  orange  glow  of 
light  seemed  to  cover  the  heavens,  emanating  from  a  point,  over  which 
flitted  rays  of  the  prismatic  colours,  directed  towards  the  horizon, 
lighting  up  both  edges  of  the  clouds,  and  throwing  them  into  bold  relief. 
The  rays  seemed  to  dart  simultaneously  towards  the  horizon,  on 
reaching  which  they  would  seem  to  be  gathered,  as  if  by  magic,  to- 
wards the  centre,  and  slowly  vanish,  to  reappear  again  and  fold  up. 

Strong  gales  from  the  west-northwest  with  snow-squalls  continued 
until  the  27th,  with  thick  misty  weather.  Numerous  ice-islands  were 
passed  during  this  interval.  The  last  iceberg  seen,  was  in  the  latitude 
of  53°  S.,  and  longitude  120°  25'  E.,  the  temperature  of  the  water 
was  46°. 

On  the  28th,  we  found  our  variation  1°  easterly,  in  the  longitude 
of  131°  50'  E.,  latitude  50°  30'  S.;  and  in  attempting  to  get  a  deep- 
sea  sounding  of  eight  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms,  we  lost  our  Six's 
thermometer  by  the  wire  parting.  The  sea  was  a  deep  blue;  the 
temperature  45°.  We  found  a  current  setting  west-northwest  three- 
fourths  of  a  knot  per  hour.  The  white  object  was  seen  at  the  depth 
of  fifteen  fathoms. 

On  the  1st  of  March  we  had  reached  the  latitude  of  the  Royal 
Company's  Isles,  and  I  continued  to  run  in  nearly  the  same  parallel 
for  eight  degrees  of  longitude,  without  seeing  any  signs  of  the  sup- 
posed land.  Having  sailed  far  to  the  eastward  of  their  supposed 
position,  I  again  hauled  to  the  northward  to  proceed  to  Hobart 
Town,  Van  Diemen's  Land,  to  fill  up  our  water.  We  now  saw  a 
sail,  the  first  during  sixty  days,  which  made  us  feel  as  if  we  were 
returning  to  a  habitable  part  of  the  globe.  This  night  we  had  a 
brilliant  display  of  the  aurora  australis,  resembling  that  seen  on  the 
9th  of  February,  with  this  difference,  that  it  was  seen  to  the  south- 
ward, extending  from  east-southeast  to  west-southwest. 

On  the  5th  of  March  the  wind  headed  us  off  our  course  to  Hobart 
Town ;  I  then  determined  to  proceed  direct  to  Sydney,  and  thus  be 
enabled  to  communicate  as  speedily  as  possible  with  the  United  States. 
The  consideration  of  getting  intelligence  respecting  the  other  vessels, 
also  led  to  this  determination.  I  felt,  in  truth,  forebodings  that  all  was 
not  well,  from  not  having  met  any  of  the  vessels  at  the  appointed 
rendezvous,  along  the  icy  barrier  ;  and  I  was  anxious  for  their  safety, 
after  the  severe  gale  of  the  28th  of  January. 

VOL.  II.  46 


•362  ANTARCTIC   CRUISE. 

Having  readied  a  lower  latitude,  the  weather  had  now  become 
pleasant,  and  we  could  dispense  with  our  winter  clothing, — a  relief 
which  the  whole  of  the  crew  seemed  to  enjoy.  It  was  the  reverse 
with  me ;  I  had  a  feeling  of  exhaustion  and  lassitude  that  I  could  not 
account  for,  and  the  least  exertion  caused  me  much  fatigue. 

On  the  9th,  we  reached  the  latitude  of  Cape  Howe,  and  were  seventy 
miles  to  the  eastward  of  it.  We  there  experienced  a  rise  in  the  tem- 
perature of  the  water :  six  degrees  in  less  than  an  hour. 

On  the  10th,  when  off  Cape  Jervis,  and  about  forty  miles  to  the 
eastward  of  it,  we  again  changed  the  temperature  from  G8°  to  73°,  as 
we  steered  in  for  the  land  to  the  northward,  but  on  hauling  to  the 
eastward  it  again  fell  to  68°.  A  strong  southerly  current  has  been 
long  known  to  exist  along  this  coast;  and  I  feel  well  satisfied  that  the 
thermometer  is  a  good  guide  in  making  the  passage  from  the  south- 
ward. The  coasting  vessels,  as  I  was  informed  at  Sydney,  had 
frequently  made  long  passages  from  Van  Diemen's  Land,  and  South 
Australia,  which  I  have  but  little  doubt  is  owing  to  the  prevalence  of 
this  minor  Gulf  Stream,  the  position  of  which  the  use  of  the  thermo- 
meter will  clearly  indicate.  This  current,  will  be  noticed  particularly 
in  the  chapter  on  currents ;  its  width  no  doubt  varies  with  the  season. 

On  the  llth  of  March,  at  noon,  we  passed  the  Heads  of  Port 
Jackson,  and  took  a  pilot.  We  were,  as  a  body,  in  better  condition 
than  when  we  left  Sydney  three  months  before. 

In  an  hour  afterwards  we  dropped  our  anchor  in  Farm  Cove,  off 
Fort  Macquarie.  Our  reception  was  flattering;  scarcely  was  our 
anchor  well  down  before  many  of  our  friends  came  on  board  to  bid 
us  welcome ;  and  we  felt  tenfold  that  kind  hospitality  which  on  our 
former  visit  we  had  first  become  acquainted  with.  They  appeared  to 
rejoice  in  our  success  as  if  we  had  been  their  countrymen. 

During  our  absence  from  Sydney,  many  improvements  had  taken 
place.  The  storehouses  for  tl\e  deposit  of  grain  on  an  island  in  the 
harbour  were  in  rapid  progress ;  the  new  Government-House  nearly 
completed,  and  the  foundation  of  an  Exchange  laid  ;  besides  this,  many 
improvements  in  town  that  were  then  in  progress,  had  been  completed ; 
and  the  rapidity  with  which  these  works  had  been  accomplished,  strongly 
reminded  me  of  similar  operations  at  home. 

The  country  was  looking  quite  green  and  pretty ;  indeed,  the  sail  up 
the  noble  harbour  was  truly  beautiful ;  it  wore  quite  a  different  face 
from  its  former  parched  appearance,  the  rains  having  been  abundant 
during  our  absence. 

Observations  were  obtained  for  the  rates  of  our  chronometers  and 
the  magnetic  needles  again  experimented  with. 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE.  353 

On  overhauling  my  ship,  the  fore-topmast  was  found  to  be  slightly 
sprung. 

It  was  with  great  pleasure  I  learned  the  safety  of  the  Peacock ;  for 
that  vessel  had  occupied  my  thoughts  more  than  the  others,  on  account 
of  the  condition  in  which  she  left  Sydney.  All  on  board  of  her  were 
well,  and  the  vessel  was  undergoing  repairs  in  Mossman's  Cove,  one 
of  the  many  which  this  harbour  forms.  These  coves  may  be  termed 
wet-docks,  affording  as  they  do  every  facility  for  the  repair  of  vessels 
of  any  size.  They  are  more  like  artificial  than  natural  basins,  and  are 
secure  against  any  wind.  There  is  no  port  in  the  world  that  offers  so 
many  natural  advantages  as  Port  Jackson,  for  a  great  naval  power. 
We  had  many  things  to  relate  to  each  other ;  among  others,  the  parti- 
culars of  the  accident  that  befell  the  Peacock,  that  has  already  been 
noticed.  The  return  of  that  vessel  to  this  port  now  claims  our 
attention. 

On  the  28th  of  January,  their  sick-list  had  increased  to  thirteen, 
more  in  consequence  of  the  fatigue  the  men  had  undergone,  than  from 
any  disease. 

On  the  29th,  they  experienced  strong  gales  from  the  northwest,  which 
continued  to  increase  until  midnight,  after  which  the  weather  mode- 
rated. The  ship  during  this  gale  was  in  latitude  61°  20'  S.,  and  longi- 
tude 154°  09'  E.  This  gale  is  remarkable,  in  consequence  of  its 
blowing  in  a  contrary  direction  to  that  which  the  Vincennes  experi- 
enced on  the  same  day ;  while  the  former  had  it  from  the  northwest, 
the  latter  had  it  from  southeast.  Their  distance  apart  was  four 
hundred  and  fifty  miles,  in  a  northeast  direction. 

On  the  1st  of  February  the  weather  was  stormy  until  towards 
evening,  when  it  moderated  and  cleared  off,  with  the  wind  to  the 
northwest,  and  gave  them  a  view  of  the  aurora  australis  lighting  up  the 
southern  portion  of  the  horizon.  Rays  were  thrown  out  in  different 
directions,  some  reaching  an  altitude  of  30°,  others  of  40°,  whilst 
others  again  almost  spanned  the  heavens. 

On  the  2d,  they  had  another  display  of  the  aurora,  but  contrary  to 
that  of  the  previous  day,  it  was  first  seen  at  an  altitude  of  70°,  di- 
verging towards  the  horizon,  from  east-southeast  to  the  southwest-by- 
west,  before  it  disappeared.  The  point  from  which  the  rays  diverged 
reached  the  zenith. 

On  the  4th  they  made  Macquarie  Island,  and  shortly  after  passing 
it,  experienced  another  gale  from  northwest  to  southwest,  which  caused 
them  much  anxiety  for  their  rudder,  which  thus  far  had  answered 
well,  although  great  attention  was  necessary  to  prevent  strain  upon  it. 


364  ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 

Strong  gales  yet  continued.  On  the  5th,  they  had  a  faint  display  of 
the  aurora. 

On  the  7th  of  February,  the  weather  had  become  less  boisterous, 
and  having  reached  latitude  49°  S.,  longitude  155°  23'  E.,  the  aurora 
australis  again  appeared.  It  was  first  seen  in  the  north,  and  gradually 
spread  its  coruscations  over  the  whole  heavens ;  the  rays  and  beams 
of  light  radiating  from  nearly  all  points  of  the  horizon  to  the  zenith, 
where  their  distinctive  outlines  were  lost  in  a  bright  glow  of  light, 
which  was  encircled  by  successive  flashes,  resembling  those  of  heat 
lightning  on  a  sultry  summer  night ;  these  formed  a  luminous  arc  in 
the  southern  sky,  about  20°  in  altitude,  from  the  upper  part  of  which, 
rays  were  continually  flashing  towards  the  zenith ;  light  showers  of 
rain  finally  shut  it  out  from  view.  On  the  same  night,  between  one 
and  three,  the  aurora  burst,  out  from  the  southwestern  horizon,  stream- 
ing up  and  concentrating  in  the  zenith,  and  attended  with  quick  flashes 
of  every  variety  of  tint.  The  wind  was  moderate  from  the  southwest, 
and  a  squall  of  hail  passed  at  the  time.  In  latitude  47°  S.  they  first 
encountered  phosphorescence  in  the  water.  On  the  17th  they  made  the 
land  of  New  South  Wales,  and  continued  to  experience  a  variety  of 
weather  until  the  21st,  when  they  arrived  off,  and  anchored  within,  the 
Heads  of  Port  Jackson. 

The  next  day  they  proceeded  up  the  harbour,  and  anchored  off 
Sydney  Cove.  The  ship  was  much  shattered,  but  her  officers  and  crew 
all  in  good  health.  Here  they  were  kindly  received,  and  no  time  was 
lost  in  proceeding  to  make  the  necessary  repairs.  The  collector  was 
kind  enough  to  give  them  permission  to  land  every  thing  that  might  be 
necessary,  when  and  where  they  pleased.  The  powder  and  fire-works 
were  received  into  the  public  magazine,  and  when  called  for  were 
politely  sent  in  a  government  boat,  free  of  expense.  The  railway  for 
merchant-vessels  was  found  too  light  to  trust  the  Peacock  upon  it ; 
Mossman's  Cove,  on  the  north  shore,  was  then  resorted  to,  not  only  as 
a  convenient  place  for  making  the  necessary  repairs,  but  as  affording 
more  security  for  the  crew  against  the  crimps  and  rum-shops. 

The  day  after  my  arrival,  I  visited  the  Peacock,  in  order  to  examine 
into  her  condition,  and  could  not  withhold  my  astonishment  that  she 
had  been  able,  after  undergoing  such  damage,  to  reach  a  distant  port. 
The  visible  injuries  have  already  been  stated,  in  speaking  of  her  acci- 
dent. On  their  arrival  at  Sydney,  it  was  found  that  her  stem  had  been 
chafed  to  within  one  and  a  half  inches  of  her  wood  ends,  and  much 
strained  throughout.  After  a  full  examination  of  the  circumstances,  I 
feel  it  a  duty  I  owe  to  Captain  Hudson,  as  well  as  to  his  officers  and 


ANTARCTIC    CRUISE. 


365 


crew,  to  state  that  I  am  well  satisfied,  that  his  coolness,  decision,  and 
seamanship,  with  the  good  conduct  of  his  officers  and  men  in  the 
perilous  situation  in  which  they  were  placed,  are  worthy  of  the  highest 
encomiums.  The  preservation  of  the  ship  and  crew,  and  her  subse- 
quent navigation  to  a  distant  port,  reflect  the  highest  credit  upon  her 
commander  and  upon  the  service  to  which  he  belongs. 

Sydney  was  now  much  crowded  with  people,  and  several  balls  were 
given,  to  which  we  had  the  honour  of  an  invitation.  That  of  the  St. 
Patrick  Society  was  attended  by  the  chief  people  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Sydney,  including  the  governor  and  most  of  the  officers  of  the 
crown.  It  was  given  in  the  new  court-house,  and  was  a  handsome 
and  well-conducted  entertainment.  Two  military  bands  were  in 
attendance;  quadrilles  and  country  dances  followed  each  other  in 
rapid  succession ;  rooms  were  provided  for  cards,  refreshments,  teas, 
lemonade,  &c. ;  and  towards  the  close  of  the  evening,  the  company 
was  ushered  in  to  an  elegant  supper,  which  was  partaken  of  standing. 

I  was  struck  with  the  beauty  and  general  appearance  of  the  ladies, 
though  I  was  informed  that  many  of  the  belles  were  absent.  The 
style  of  the  party  was  neither  English  nor  American,  but  something 
between  the  two.  I  scarcely  need  remark  that  we  were  all  much 
gratified  and  pleased.  The  hospitality  and  kindness  shown  us  were 
of  that  kind  that  made  us  feel  truly  welcome. 

Our  last  week  at  Sydney  was  spent  in  a  round  of  pleasure,  and  the 
attention  we  met  with  being  entirely  unexpected,  was  doubly  gratify- 
ing to  us. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


CONTENTS. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  SYDNEY— PASSAGE  TO  NEW  ZEALAND— ARRIVAL  AT  THE  BAY  OP 
ISLANDS— MEETING  WITH  THE  SCIENTIFIC  CORPS— THEIR  PASSAGE  FROM  SYDNEY- 
BAY  OF  ISLANDS— RIVERS  WHICH  FALL  INTO  IT— FACE  OF  THE  COUNTRY— ACTIVE 
VOLCANO— HOT  SPRING  OF  TAIAIMI— CRATER  OF  POERUA— DR.  PICKERING'S  VISIT  TO 
HOKIANGA  —  MISSIONARY  ESTABLISHMENT  AT  PAHIA  —  KORORARIKA  —  ENGLISH 
POLICE  MAGISTRATE  AND  ACTING  GOVERNOR— TREATY  OF  CESSION  TO  ENGLAND- 
CONDUCT  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONSUL— INSTALLATION  OF  THE  LIEUTENANT-GOVER- 
NOR—OPINION OF  THE  CHIEFS  IN  RELATION  TO  THE  TREATY— ARRIVAL  OF  ENGLISH 
REVENUE  OFFICERS  —  LAND  CLAIMS  — BURTHENSOME  TAXES  AND  TARIFF  — THEIR 
EFFECT  ON  AMERICAN  COMMERCE— EXPENSE  OF  THE  NEW  GOVERNMENT— CASE  OF 
JOHN  SAC— HIS  LETTER  TO  MR.  WALDRON— FURTHER  REMARKS  ON  THE  TREATY  OF 
CESSION  — VIOLENT  GALE  — ITS  EXTENT  AND  ROTARY  CHARACTER— FOREIGN  RESI- 
DENTS—HIGH PRICE  OF  LAND  — MISSIONS  — TABOO  — PAS,  OR  FORTIFIED  TOWNS- 
DWELLINGS— TOMB— DRESS  OF  THE  NATIVES— THEIR  STOREHOUSES— THEIR  FOOD— 
THEIR  ARMS  AND  ORNAMENTS-KING  POMARE— MAUPARAW A— CHARLEY  POMARE— 
POMARE'S  WARS-CEREMONY  OF  HIS  RETURN— HIS  MEANNESS— POPULATION  OF  NEW 
ZEALAND— VISIT  TO  WANG ARARA  — POLITENESS  OF  KO-TOWATOWA  — WANGARARA 
BAY  — CHARACTER  OF  THE  NEW  ZEALANDERS  —  THEIR  PERSONAL  APPEARANCE  — 
TRADITION  IN  RELATION  TO  THEIR  ORIGIN  —  TATTOOED  HEADS  — CANNIBALISM- 
CONDITION  AND  PROSPECTS  OF  THE  NATIVES -NATIVE  DANCES-MUSIC-CHATHAM 
ISLAND-CHART  OF  THE  BAY  OF  ISLANDS-MR.  COUTHOUY'S  PASSAGE  FROM  SYDNEY 
—HIS  ACCOUNT  OF  MOUNT  EGMONT  — OF  PORT  COOPER— WARS  OF  ROBOLUA— PORT 
LEVY— KORAKIBARURU— PIGEON  BAY— CAPE  CAMPBELL  AND  SNOWY  PEAKS-CLOUDY 
BAY  — ROBOLUA  — HABITS  OF  THE  NATIVES,  AND  PREVAILING  WINDS  AT  CLOUDY 
BAY  — CLIMATE  OF  NEW  ZEALAND  — DISEASES  — SOIL  — CULTIVATION  — VEGETABLE 
PRODUCTIONS— TIMBER— CANOES— QUADRUPEDS— BIRDS— COMMERCE. 


(367) 


CHAPTER   XII. 

NEW    ZEALAND. 

1840. 

HAVING  replenished  our  stores  of  provisions,  we  took,  with  much 
regret,  a  final  leave  of  our  friends  at  Sydney.  The  Vincennes  weighed 
anchor,  and  at  3  p.  M.  on  the  19th  March,  we  discharged  our  pilot, 
and  bade  adieu  to  these  hospitable  shores.  The  Peacock,  not  having 
completed  her  repairs,  was  left  at  Sydney  for  a  few  days,  with  orders 
to  follow  us  to  Tongataboo. 

On  reaching  a  distance  of  thirty  miles  from  the  coast,  we  again 
found  a  difference  of  three  degrees  in  the  temperature  of  the  water, 
and  experienced  the  effects  of  a  strong  current  towards  the  south. 
The  wind  was  from  the  northward  and  eastward. 

On  the  23d  we  spoke  the  French  whale-ship  Ville  de  Bordeaux,  in 
want  of  provisions,  which  we  supplied  her.  She  had  been  out  three 
years,  and  had  on  board  four  thousand  barrels  of  oil.  The  crew  was 
reduced  to  bread  and  water,  and  the  vessel  was  apparently  in  a  bad 
condition  in  other  respects. 

On  the  25th,  in  latitude  34°  24'  S.,  longitude  160°  26'  E.,  we  ex- 
perienced a  current  setting  to  the  south  at  the  rate  of  twenty  miles  in 
twenty-four  hours. 

On  the  26th  the  current  set  east-southeast  at  the  rate  of  twelve 
miles  per  day. 

The  wind  on  the  27th  hauled  to  south-southeast  by  the  east,  and 
became  a  fine  breeze. 

On  the  29th,  we  made  the  North  Cape  of  New  Zealand.  The 
current  for  the  two  previous  days  had  been  setting  north-northwest, 
and  the  temperature  of  the  air  varied  during  our  passage  from  Sydney 
from  63°  3',  to  76°  4' ;  that  of  the  water  from  70°  to  72°. 

VOL.  ii.  47  (36°) 


370  NEW    ZEALAND. 

At  daylight  on  the  30th,  we  made  Cape  Brett,  and  after  groping 
our  way  through  the  dark,  into  the  Bay  of  Islands,  anchored  at  10 
p.  M.  in  the  Kawa-Kawa  river,  opposite  the  residence  of  Mr.  Clendon 
the  American  consul.  Here  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  the  Porpoise 
and  Flying-Fish,  and  receive  the  reports  of  their  cruises,  which  will 
be  found  in  Appendix  XXX. :  they  were  all  well  on  board.  The 
former  vessel  had  arrived  a  few  days,  and  the  latter  about  three 
weeks,  before  us.  We  were  also  gratified  with  the  receipt  of  letters 
from  the  United  States.  Every  exertion  was  made  to  shorten  the 
duration  of  our  stay  in  New  Zealand,  and  the  necessary  instruments 
were  landed  without  delay. 

Here  also  we  met  all  the  scientific  gentlemen, — who,  as  has  been 
stated,  had  been  left  at  Sydney  when  the  squadron  sailed  upon  the 
Antarctic  cruise, — anxiously  awaiting  our  arrival. 

They  had  been  forced  to  remain  inactive  at  Sydney,  in  consequence 
of  a  change  in  the  destination  of  the  vessel  in  which  they  had  first 
taken  their  passages,  and,  by  this  vexatious  delay,  had  not  only  been 
prevented  from  pursuing  further  researches  in  New  South  Wales,  but 
had  lost  time  that  might  have  been  advantageously  employed  in  New 
Zealand.  They  finally  succeeded  in  finding  an  opportunity  of  reaching 
the  Bay  of  Islands,  in  the  British  brig  Victoria. 

After  leaving  Sydney  in  this  vessel,  a  sea  was  shipped,  which, 
besides  doing  other  mischief,  entered  at  the  cabin-windows,  and  filled 
the  chronometer-box  with  salt  water ;  in  consequence  of  which  the 
master  considered  it  necessary  to  put  back,  in  order  to  exchange  the 
injured  time-piece  for  another.  She  accordingly  anchored  again  in 
Port  Jackson. 

On  the  7th  February,  they  had  a  beautiful  exhibition  of  the  aurora 
australis  :  the  coruscations  were  of  a  straw-coloured  light,  reaching 
nearly  to  the  zenith  in  the  southern  sky,  and  lasting  from  seven  until 
ten  o'clock.  A  noddy  lighted  on  the  brig,  and  remained  on  board 
many  days ;  so  tame  was  it  that  it  even  suffered  itself  to  be  handled. 

On  the  16th,  when  they  had  performed  about  half  the  passage,  they 
had  another  exhibition  of  the  aurora,  much  like  the  former;  after 
which  they  experienced  a  gale  of  wind  of  five  days'  duration.  On  the 
21st,  they  were  enabled  again  to  make  sail,  and,  on  the  23d,  they 
made  the  North  Cape.  A  gale  then  came  on  from  the  eastward,  and 
they  had  a  narrow  escape  from  shipwreck  while  running  down  the 
land.  On  the  24th,  they  dropped  anchor  at  Kororarika,  about  three 
miles  above  which  place  they  found  the  United  States  Consul,  Mr. 
Clendon,  at  Ornotu  Point. 

From  the  splendid  panorama  of  Mr.  Burford,  I  had  pictured  the  Bay 


NEW    ZEALAND.  373 

lava.  The  soil  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  craters  is  richer,  looser, 
and  more  fit  for  cultivation  than  in  other  places. 

Dr.  Pickering  made  a  visit  to  Hokianga,  on  the  western  side  of  the 
island,  and  found  that  it  had  more  of  the  forest  character  than  the 
eastern.  He  took  the  direct  road  to  Waimati,  which  is  fifteen  miles 
from  the  Bay  of  Islands.  The  river  Waitanga  was  very  high,  and 
one  of  the  chiefs,  a  large  and  muscular  man,  seemed  to  take  particular 
interest  in  getting  them  across  safe  and  dry ;  but  notwithstanding  his 
stature  and  all  his  care,  he  could  not  prevent  a  slight  immersion.* 
The  Doctor  arrived  at  Waimati  at  4  p.  M.,  and  was  kindly  welcomed 
by  Mr.  Davis,  the  Methodist  missionary,  to  whom  he  had  a  letter  of 
introduction.  It  was  not  without  surprise  that  he  found  here  a  water- 
mill  in  operation,  which  the  guides  took  care  to  point  out  with  no  little 
exultation.  This,  together  with  the  fences,  and  well  cultivated  fields, 
were  the  works  of  the  missionaries.  He  remained  with  Mr.  Davis  for 
the  night,  who  advised  his  proceeding  direct  to  Hokianga;  but  the 
guides  who  had  hitherto  accompanied  him  were  ignorant  of  the  route, 
and  another  became  necessary. 

The  next  day  they  passed  over  the  flank  of  Te-ahooahoo,  a  volcanic 
cone,  and  the  most  prominent  elevation  in  this  region.  A  little  farther 
on,  a  fine  lake  was  passed,  about  three  miles  in  length.  At  nine  miles 
from  Waimati,  the  wooded  region  was  entered,  which  extended  to 
Hokianga.  Just  before  crossing  the  Hokianga  river  for  the  first  time, 
the  Baron  de  Thierry  was  met  with,  who  was  exceedingly  polite.  The 
road  after  this  became  difficult,  it  being  necessary  to  cross  the  river 
repeatedly,  and  to  follow  the  stream  for  some  distance.  The  usual 
manner  of  crossing  here  is  to  be  carried.  The  guides,  under  various 
pretexts,  prevented  them  from  reaching  Hokianga,  and  they  were 
compelled  to  stop  four  miles  short  of  it,  at  a  chief's  called  Tooron,  of 
rather  doubtful  character. 

Tooron,  with  his  family,  had  worship  both  morning  and  evening, 
as  is  customary  with  converted  natives,  he  himself  officiating.  The 
accommodations  were  none  of  the  best.  An  open  shed,  with  fire  and 
blanket,  were,  however,  sufficient  to  insure  a  good  night's  rest. 
Tooron  was  liberally  paid,  and  so  well  pleased,  that  he  said  he  was 
determined  to  carry  his  guests  over  the  river  himself.  The  road  was 
any  thing  but  good,  being  miry,  and  filled  with  roots  of  trees,  so  that 

*  On  the  banks  of  the  Waitanga,  the  adult  inhabitants,  to  the  number  of  twenty,  were 
collected  in  a  circle,  each  armed  with  a  musket,  and  several  had  been  met  on  the  way,  all 
armed.  The  cause  of  this  unusual  occurrence  was  not  known.  They  are  very  fond  of  fire- 
arms, and  on  welcoming  any  one,  particularly  a  chief,  all  the  people  of  the  village  assemble 
and  salute  him  with  a  number  of  rounds,  in  proportion  to  his  rank. 


374  NEW    ZEALAND. 

their  attention  was  wholly  engrossed  in  seeking  a  good  foothold.  The 
river  was  again  repeatedly  crossed.  On  the  way  they  met  natives 
loaded  with  baskets  of  peaches,  the  season  for  which  had  arrived. 
They  freely  offered  their  fruit,  for  which  tobacco  was  returned. 
Before  noon,  they  arrived  at  Baron  de  Thierry's  house,  where  they 
were  hospitably  received  by  his  lady.  This  house  is  situated  at  the 
head  of  tide-water  on  the  Ilokianga  river,  about  thirty  miles  from  its 
mouth,  and  boats  can  ascend  as  far  as  this  place.  There  is  no  village 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  but  many  whites  reside  at  different  points  on 
its  banks.  There  is  a  bar  between  the  headlands  at  its  mouth,  which 
will  admit  only  of  small  vessels  entering. 

Our  travellers  had  intended  to  return  the  next  day,  but  one  of  their 
guides,  by  the  name  of  Pooe,  was  missing.  He  had  been  allowed  to 
take  up  his  quarters  at  a  short  distance,  on  condition  of  his  being 
ready  for  an  early  start ;  on  inquiry,  however,  they  were  informed 
that  Pooe  had  said  he  did  not  intend  to  go  back  until  Monday,  which 
was  two  or  three  days  off.  They  departed  without  him,  but  before 
reaching  Tooron's,  Pooe  again  joined  them,  having  a  piece  of  pork, 
which  one  of  his  friends  had  furnished  for  the  Doctor's  supper. 

Mr.  Davis's  was  reached  at  dark,  and  the  same  warm  greeting  ex- 
perienced as  before.  The  next  day  they  reached  the  Bay  of  Islands, 
at  Pahia. 

Pahia  is  the  principal  missionary  establishment  of  the  Episcopal 
Church.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  bay,  opposite  Kororarika,  and 
is  the  residence  of  all  those  attached  to  the  mission,  and  their  printing- 
presses  are  there.  It  is  too  much  exposed  to  afford  a  good  harbour  for 
shipping,  but  as  it  is  the  most  favourable  side  for  communication  with 
the  interior,  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of  its  position  are  nearly 
balanced. 

Kororarika  is  still  the  principal  settlement,  and  contains  about  twenty 
houses,  scarcely  deserving  the  name,  and  many  shanties,  besides  tents. 
It  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  the  lowest  order  of  vagabonds,  mostly  run- 
away sailors  and  convicts,  and  is  appropriately  named  "  Blackguard 
Beach." 

The  appointment  of  the  police  magistrates  was  one  of  the  first  acts 
under  the  new  order  of  things.  Mr.  Robert  Shortland,  the  first  police 
magistrate,  after  the  illness  of  Governor  Hobson,  styled  himself  acting 
governor,  and  a  more  ridiculously  pompous  functionary  could  scarcely 
be  imagined.  He  paid  a  visit  to  the  vessel  in  which  some  of  our 
gentlemen  had  made  the  passage  from  Sydney,  and  demanded  the 
reason  why  the  mail-bag  had  not  been  sent  to  the  new  government 
postmaster.  The  master  of  the  vessel  replied,  that  he  thought  it  his 


NEW    ZEALAND.  375 

duty,  not  having  been  informed  of  any  change,  to  deliver  them  to  the 
old  postmaster,  until  he  should  be  directed  otherwise  by  Governor 
Hobson.  This  pompous  functionary,  in  an  improper  tone  as  well  as 
manner,  exclaimed,  "  I  wish  you  to  know  that  I  am  governor  now  !" 
In  the  words  of  one  of  the  gentlemen,  "  had  he  been  the  viceroy  of  the 
Indies,  he  could  not  have  made  his  inquisitions  in  tones  of  loftier 
supremacy." 

Some  of  our  gentlemen  arrived  at  the  Bay  of  Islands  in  time  to 
witness  the  ceremonies  of  making  the  treaty  with  the  New  Zealand 
chiefs.  I  mentioned,  whilst  at  Sydney,  the  arrival  of  H.  B.  M.  frigate 
the  Druid,  with  Captain  Hobson  on  board,  as  consul  to  New  Zealand. 
It  was  well  understood  that  he  had  the  appointment  of  Lieutenant- 
Governor  in  his  pocket,  in  the  event  of  certain  arrangements  being 
made.  His  arrival  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  in  H.  B.  M.  ship  Herald, 
seemed  to  take  the  inhabitants,  foreigners  as  well  as  natives,  by 
surprise.  A  few  days  afterwards,  on  the  5th  February,  a  meeting  was 
called  at  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Busby.  The  meeting  was  large  and 
numerously  attended  by  the  chiefs.  Many  arguments  and  endeavours 
were  used  to  induce  them  to  sign  a  treaty  with  Great  Britain,  all  of 
which  were  but  little  understood,  even  by  those  who  were  present,  and 
had  some  clue  to  the  object  in  view.  Great  excitement  prevailed,  and 
after  five  hours'  ineffectual  persuasion,  the  meeting  broke  up,  every 
chief  refusing  to  sign  or  favour  Captain  Hobson's  proposition,  which 
was  in  reality  nothing  more  or  less  than  a  cession  of  their  lands, 
authority,  and  persons,  to  Queen  Victoria.  Among  the  arguments 
made  use  of,  he  stated  that  unless  they  signed  the  treaty,  he  could  do 
nothing  more  than  act  as  consul !  Nothing  having  been  effected,  the 
meeting  was  broken  up,  and  the  following  Friday  appointed  for  a 
second.  Tobacco  and  pipes  were  given  them  before  they  departed, 
which  restored  their  good  humour,  and  they  went  away  shouting. 

In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  J.  R.  Clendon,  an  Englishman  acting  as 
American  consul,  the  missionaries,  and  many  interested  persons 
residing  there,  or  about  becoming  settlers,  were  made  to  understand 
that  their  interest  would  be  much  promoted  if  they  should  forward  the 
views  of  the  British  government.  Every  exertion  was  now  made  by 
these  parties  to  remove  the  scruples  of  the  chiefs,  and  thus  to  form  a 
party  strong  enough  to  overreach  the  rest  of  the  natives,  and  overcome 
their  objections.  About  forty  chiefs,  principally  minor  ones, — a  very 
small  representation  of  the  proprietors  of  the  soil, — were  induced  to 
sign  the  treaty.  The  influence  of  Mr.  Clendon,  arising  from  his  posi- 
tion as  the  representative  of  the  United  States,  was  among  the  most 
efficient  means  by  which  the  assent,  even  of  this  small  party,  was 


37G  NEW    ZEALAND. 

obtained.  The  natives  placed  much  confidence  in  him,  believing  him 
to  be  disinterested.  He  became  a  witness  to  the  document,  and 
informed  me,  when  speaking  of  the  transaction,  that  it  was  entirely 
through  his  influence  that  the  treaty  was  signed. 

The  Lieutenant-Governor  installed  himself,  confirmed  the  appoint- 
ments of  a  host  of  government  officers,  and  the  whole  machinery,  that 
had  been  long  prepared,  was  put  in  motion.  Proclamations  were 
issued  by  him,  extending  his  authority  over  all  the  English  residents 
on  both  islands  !  and  it  was  considered  by  the  Englishmen  as  good  as 
law,  though  far  otherwise  by  the  other  foreigners.  After  this,  the 
Lieutenant-Governor  proceeded  to  the  district  of  the  Thames  River, 
or  Hauaki,  in  the  Herald,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a  similar 
cession  of  the  country ;  but  before  this  could  be  consummated,  he  was 
attacked  with  paralysis,  and  the  Herald  was  obliged  to  depart  for 
Sydney. 

So  far  as  the  chiefs  understand  the  agreement,  they  think  they 
have  not  alienated  any  of  their  rights  to  the  soil,  but  consider  it  only 
as  a  personal  grant,  not  transferable.  In  the  interview  I  had  with 
Pomare,  I  was  desirous  of  knowing  the  impression  it  had  made  upon 
him.  I  found  he  was  not  under  the  impression  that  he  had  given  up 
his  authority,  or  any  portion  of  his  land  permanently;  the  latter  he 
said  he  could  not  do,  as  it  belonged  to  all  his  tribe.  Whenever  this 
subject  was  brought  up,  after  answering  questions,  he  invariably  spoke 
of  the  figure  he  would  make  in  the  scarlet  uniform  and  epaulettes,  that 
Queen  Victoria  was  to  send  him,  and  "  then  what  a  handsome  man 
he  would  be !" 

Those  who  are  not  directly  benefited  by  the  change,  cannot  but  view 
it  as  a  disastrous  circumstance  for  the  natives,  which  will  seal  their 
doom,  and  make  them  the  prey  of  the  hosts  of  adventurers  who  are 
flocking  in  from  all  parts,  some  to  be  engaged  as  public  officers,  and  to 
fatten  on  the  coming  revenues,  and  others  as  speculators.  During  our 
stay,  a  cutter  arrived  from  Sydney,  with  a  number  of  revenue  officers, 
magistrates,  and  other  minor  dignitaries. 

New  Zealand  continued  under  the  authority  of  New  South  Wales 
until  September,  1840,  when  it  became  a  separate  colony.  One  of  the 
first  acts  of  the  new  government  has  been,  by  proclamation,  to  require 
all  those  who  have  acquired  lands  by  purchase  from  the  natives,  to 
exhibit  their  vouchers,  and  to  show  how  much  land  they  had  purchased, 
and  the  price  paid.  At  the  same  time,  a  committee  was  appointed  to 
examine  these  claims.  A  few  statements  made  by  this  committee,  will 
show  how  the  spirit  of  speculation  has  been  at  work  in  New  Zealand. 
Up  to  October,  1841,  they  reported  that  five  hundred  and  ninety-one 


NEW    ZEALAND.  377 

claims  had  been  entered  by  two  hundred  and  eighty  individuals ;  of 
these,  there  are  four  hundred  and  thirty-five  claims,  amounting  to 
thirteen  millions  nine  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  four  hundred  and 
eighty-two  acres.  The  remaining  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  claims  are 
not  defined  by  ordinary  landmarks,  but  are  limited  by  degrees  of  lati- 
tude and  longitude,  and  computed  in  square  miles  instead  of  acres.  The 
last  description  of  claims  are  considered,  at  a  moderate  calculation,  to 
be  double  the  amount  of  the  four  hundred  and  thirty-five  claims,  so  that, 
in  round  numbers,  the  claims  already  sent  in  to  the  commissioners  may 
be  estimated  at  forty  millions  of  acres.  For  four  hundred  claims, 
affidavits  have  been  made,  and  the  total  value  of  goods  and  money  paid 
by  these  claimants  -is  thirty-four  thousand  and  ninety-six  pounds. 

For  one  hundred  and  ninety-five  claims,  no  value  is  stated  ;  but  if 
paid  for  in  the  same  ratio,  the  amount  will  be  nearly  forty  thousand 
pounds,  or  about  one  penny  for  three  acres.  The  whole  surface  of  the 
two  islands  does  not  contain  more  than  eighty  thousand  six  hundred 
square  miles,  or  fifty  millions  of  acres,  and  the  largest  part  of  them  has 
not  yet  been  sold  by  the  natives,  viz.,  the  Waikati  district,  Rotorua 
and  Taupo,  in  the  interior,  as  well  as  the  whole  of  the  eastern  coast  of 
the  northern  island;  so  that  it  will  be  difficult  to  find  a  space  wherein 
to  locate  these  enormous  claims. 

Laws  have  likewise  been  promulgated  and  imposts  levied,  harassing 
to  foreigners,  (Americans  and  others,)  and  most  destructive  to  their 
commercial  pursuits,  while  they  offer  the  most  marked  protection  to 
those  of  British  subjects !  This  would  seem  not  a  little  unjust  to  those 
who  have  been  resident,  and  extensively  engaged  in  commerce,  before 
England  took  possession,  and  whilst  New  Zealand  was  acknowledged 
as  an  independent  state.  It  has,  among  other  things,  been  enacted, 
that  all  goods  imported  and  remaining  on  hand  on  the  1st  of  January, 
1840,  the  time  of  British  assumption,  shall  pay  duties;  that  all  lands 
are  to  be  considered  as  belonging  to  the  Queen,  even  those  purchased 
of  the  chiefs  prior  to  the  treaty,  while  the  purchasers  shall  be  only 
entitled  to  as  many  acres  as  the  amount  paid  to  the  chiefs  will  cover 
at  the  rate  of  five  shillings  per  acre.  The  government  in  addition 
reserves  to  itself  the  right  to  such  portions  as  it  may  require.  Many 
of  these  purchases  were  made  from  the  native  chiefs,  prior  to  the  treaty, 
in  good  faith,  and  for  an  equivalent  with  which  they  were  well  satis- 
fied, and  so  expressed  themselves. 

The  destructive  effect  of  these  laws  on  American  commerce  will  be 
great,  particularly  as  those  engaged  in  mercantile  pursuits  find  them- 
selves called  upon  to  pay  heavy  duties  on  their  stocks.  Americans  are 
not  permitted  to  hold  property,  and,  in  consequence,  their  whaling 

VOL.  n.  48 


378  NEW    ZEALAND. 

establishments  on  shore  must  either  be  broken  up  altogether,  or  trans- 
ferred to  other  places,  at  a  great  loss  of  outlay  and  capital.  Our 
whalers  are  now  prevented  from  resorting  to  the  New  Zealand  ports, 
or  fishing  on  the  coast,  by  the  tonnage  duty,  port  charges,  &c. ;  are 
denied  the  privilege  of  disposing  of  any  thing  in  barter,  and  obliged  to 
pay  a  duty  on  American  articles  of  from  ten  to  five  hundred  per  cent. 
The  expenses  of  repairs  have  so  much  increased,  that  other  places 
must  be  sought  for  the  purpose  of  making  them.  The  timber  and 
timber-lands  are  exclusively  claimed  as  belonging  to  Her  Majesty. 
Thus  have  our  citizens  been  deprived  of  a  fishery  yielding  about  three 
hundred  thousand  dollars  annually  in  oil. 

Governor  Hobson's  proclamation  will  be  found  in  Appendix  XXXI. 

The  expenses  of  this  new  government  were  estimated  for  the  year 
1841  at  £50,022  3s.  4d.,  sterling,  which  is  about  equal  to  £10  for  each 
man,  woman,  and  child  ;  for  the  whole  foreign  population  on  all  the 
islands,  is  not  supposed  to  be  more  than  five  thousand.  The  great 
precipitancy  with  which  the  islands  were  taken  possession  of,  is  said 
to  have  been  owing  to  the  fears  entertained  that  the  French  intended 
forming  a  colony  on  the  southern  island  in  like  manner. 

After  my  arrival  I  gave  the  men  liberty.  Among  the  first  who 
obtained  it  was  John  Sac,  a  native  of  New  Zealand,  and  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  this  bay.  His  native  name  was  Tuatti,  and  he  was  a 
petty  chief.  He  had  been  some  time  absent  from  his  country,  and  had 
sailed  in  the  Expedition  from  the  United  States,  was  an  excellent 
sailor,  a  very  good  fellow,  and  had  been  enthusiastic  in  the  praise  of 
his  country  and  countrymen.  According  to  him,  there  was  nothing 
like  New  Zealand ;  and  under  this  feeling  he  hired  a  canoe  to  take 
him  on  shore,  for  which  his  countryman  charged  him  three  dollars, 
although  half  a  dollar  would  have  been  an  exorbitant  price.  He 
landed  at  Tibbey's,  and  being  desirous  of  going  to  his  friends,  wished 
to  engage  a  canoe  to  take  him  about  ten  miles  up  one  of  the  rivers, 
the  Kawa-Kawa,  where  they  resided.  For  this  conveyance  he  was 
asked  £2,  nearly  a  month's  pay.  Poor  John  could  not  submit  to  this 
extortion,  and  was  found  sitting  on  a  log,  greatly  mortified,  depressed, 
and  incensed  at  such  treatment. 

After  John  returned  on  board,  he  made  a  proposition  to  Mr.  Wal- 
dron,  in  a  letter,  to  purchase  the  island  which  he  called  Motugee,  with 
the  territory  of  Muckatoo,  belonging  to  his  father  and  family,  and  ex- 
pressing his  belief  that  they  were  all  opposed  to  the  encroachments  of 
the  English,  and  were  determined  not  to  part  with  their  land  to  them. 

Although  the  land  about  the  Bay  of  Islands  is  much  cut  up  by 
indentations,  yet  from  this  circumstance  it  affords  many  pretty  views, 


N  1 :  W    Z  E  A  L  A  N  D. 


379 


which  have  in  some  respects  an  appearance  of  an  advance  towards 
civilization,  that  one  hardly  expects  to  find  within  the  scope  of  the 
residences  of  these  savages. 

One  of  the  many  sketches  Mr.  Agate  made,  will  serve  to  convey  an 
idea  of  their  beauty,  as  well  as  a  distant  view  of  their  pas. 


At  the  time  of  rny  visit,  which  was,  as  has  been  seen,  immediately 
after  Captain  Hobson's  arrival,  and  the  signing  of  the  treaty,  or  cession, 
it  was  evident  that  full  seven-eighths  of  the  native  population  had  the 
same  feelings  as  are  found  expressed  in  this  note.  The  circumstances 
that  have  occurred  at  New  Zealand  fully  prove  the  necessity  of  having 
American  citizens  as  our  consuls  abroad.  Mr.  J.  R.  Clendon,  our 
consul  at  New  Zealand,  an  independent  state,  and  the  only  represen- 
tative of  a  foreign  power,  whose  interest  was  at  stake,  was  consulted 
by  some  of  the  most  powerful  and  influential  chiefs,  who  had  refused 
to  sign  the  treaty  or  cession  to  Great  Britain.  They  came  to  Mr. 
Clendon  for  advice,  how  they  should  act,  and  he  admitted  that  he  had 
advised  them  to  sign,  telling  them  it  would  be  for  their  good.  He  him- 
self signed  the  treaty  as  a  witness,  and  did  all  he  could  to  carry  it  into 
effect ;  but,  in  doing  this,  he  said,  he  had  acted  as  a  private  citizen,  by 
request  of  the  Governor,  thus  separating  his  public  duties  from  his 
private  acts.  At  the  same  time  he  buys  large  tracts  of  land,  for  a  few 


380  NEW    ZEALAND. 

trifles,  and  expects  to  have  his  titles  confirmed  as  Consul  of  the  United 
States.  This  is  not  surprising,  and  any  foreigner  would  undoubtedly 
have  pursued  the  same  course  ;  for  his  personal  interest  was  very 
great  in  having  the  British  authority  established,  while  the  influence 
he  had  over  the  chiefs  was  too  great  not  to  attract  the  attention  of  tha 
Governor,  and  make  it  an  object  to  secure  his  good-will  and  services. 

The  prospects  of  these  islanders  are,  in  my  opinion,  any  thing  but 
pleasing,  and  the  change  by  no  means  calculated  to  insure  their  hap- 
piness, or  promote  their  welfare.  It  seems  to  have  been  brought  about 
by  a  rage  for  speculation,  and  a  desire  to  take  possession  of  this  country, 
in  order  to  secure  it  from  the  French.  The  idea  that  it  was  necessary 
to  extend  the  laws  of  New  South  Wales  over  the  island,  in  order  to 
protect  the  natives,  and  break  up  the  nest  of  rogues  that  had  taken 
refuge  there,  is  far  from  being  true.  No  such  necessity  existed,  for 
there  was  no  difficulty  in  having  any  one  apprehended  by  sending 
officers  for  the  purpose,  or  offering  a  reward. 

The  New  Zealand  Land  Company  have  been  the  secret  spring  of 
this  transaction,  and  under  the  shelter  of  certain  influential  names, 
the  managers  have  contrived  to  blind  the  English  public.  It  will 
scarcely  be  believed  that  the  New  Zealand  Land  Company  had  dis- 
posed of  several  thousand  shares  of  land  before  they  purchased  an  acre. 
Some  three  or  four  thousand  emigrants,  who  had  purchased  allotments, 
left  England  on  their  way  to  take  possession  of  them,  just  after  the 
agent.  Upon  their  arrival  they  could  obtain  no  satisfactory  informa- 
tion respecting  their  allotments,  and  were  left  in  a  destitute  condition, 
to  spend  the  few  earnings  they  had  left,  and  to  endure  all  the  privations 
to  which  people  landed  in  a  new  country  are  subject. 

Even  of  those  allotments  that  have  been  given  out,  many  are  not 
susceptible  of  cultivation.  It  is  scarcely  to  be  believed  that  the  high 
names  which  stand  at  the  head  of  this  Company  could  have  been 
informed  of  the  true  state  of  things ;  yet  it  is  generally  supposed  in  this 
part  of  the  world,  that  it  is  by  their  exertions  and  influence  that  the 
British  government  has  been  induced  to  take  forcible  possession  of  the 
territory  of  an  independent  state,  which  New  Zealand  undoubtedly 
was.  However  this  may  be,  the  speculators  have  succeeded  in  their 
object,  and  the  country  will  now  be  retained  by  England,  even  if  a 
military  power  should  be  necessary.  Should  the  New  Zealanders 
resist,  and  they  are  a  warlike  race,  yet  acting  against  European  disci- 
pline, they  will  readily  be  overcome.  They  are  not  unlike  grown 
children,  and  may  be  more  easily  ruled  by  kindness,  and  by  satisfying 
the  wants  of  the  chiefs,  than  by  force.  The  population  will  soon 
disappear  before  the  whites,  for  the  causes  that  have  operated  else- 


N  E  W    Z  E  A  L  A  N  D.  381 

where  are  to  be  seen  in  action  here,  where  the  savage  is  already 
sinking  imperceptibly  before  the  advances  of  civilization.  While 
philanthropy,  real  or  pretended,  is  ransacking  the  globe  to  find  subjects 
for  its  benevolence,  it  seems  a  little  surprising  that  scarcely  a  voice 
has  been  raised  in  Parliament  against  this  act  of  usurpation. 

On  the  29th  of  February,  1840,  there  was  a  violent  gale  at  the  Bay 
of  Islands,  said  by  the  missionaries  to  have  been  the  severest  they  had 
experienced,  with  perhaps  the  exception  of  one  which  took  place 
shortly  after  their  arrival.  Many  vessels  suffered  great  damage. 
The  Thorn,  of  Sag  Harbour,  which  sailed  a  few  days  before,  bound 
home,  was  obliged  to  put  back,  and  in  consequence  of  the  damage 
received,  was  condemned  as  unseaworthy,  as  was  also  the  Tuscan,  an 
English  whaler.  The  barque  Nimrod  arrived,  having  lost  her  topmast, 
and  several  coasters  were  missing,  supposed  to  have  been  lost.  Most 
of  the  vessels  lying  off  Kororarika  dragged  their  anchors,  but  they 
suffered  less  from  not  being  much  exposed ;  the  Harriet  was  driven 
ashore  at  Tipoona,  a  few  miles  to  the  eastward,  near  Point  Pocock. 
This  vessel  parted  her  cables  during  the  night,  and  the  next  morning 
was  found  a  complete  wreck.  The  crew  barely  escaped  with  their 
lives.  Besides  these  disasters  on  the  water,  those  on  the  land  were 
also  great :  fences  were  carried  away,  houses  deluged,  grounds  over- 
flowed, wharves  injured,  and  the  extensive  embankment  of  the  mission- 
ary establishment  at  Pahia  nearly  demolished.  The  tide  rose  six 
feet,  during  the  night  of  Saturday,  beyond  its  usual  mark,  which  caused 
most  of  the  damage. 

This  gale  was  experienced  at  the  Thames  on  board  H.  B.  M.  ship 
Herald,  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  to  the  south;  also  by  the  Flying- 
Fish,  off  Cook's  Straits,  and  by  the  barque  Achilles,  to  the  north.  Mr. 
Hale  was  a  passenger  in  the  last  named  vessel,  and  took  barometrical 
observations  and  notes  during  the  continuance  of  the  gale. 

From  the  observations,  it  appears  that  the  change  took  place  at  the 
two  northern  and  two  southern  positions,  in  opposite  directions,  proving 
that  the  gale  was  a  rotary  one,  and  that  its  centre  must  have  passed 
between  the  Bay  of  Islands  and  the  river  Thames.  The  greatest  force 
of  the  gale  was  between  the  hours  of  1  and  3  A.  M.,  on  the  1st  of  March. 
At  the  Bay  of  Islands,  a  calm  was  observed  by  Mr.  Dana  and  others, 
which  lasted  fifteen  minutes,  after  which  the  wind  rapidly  hauled  round 
to  the  westward,  and  blew  with  increased  violence.  On  board  the 
Herald,  the  barometer  fell  to  28-75  in.,  and  from  the  fact  of  the  gale 
having  been  experienced  first  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  it  is 
certain  that  it  came  from  that  quarter,  and  passed  over  New  Zealand 
in  a  southwest  direction:  the  width  of  the  track  was  about  five  hundred 


382  NEW    ZEALAND. 

miles.     The  particulars  of  the  preceding  observations  will  be  found  in 
the  Meteorological  Report. 

Foreign  residents  have  established  themselves  in  many  places,  and 
on  all  the  inlets  or  arms  of  the  Bay  of  Islands  their  cottages  are  to  be 
seen,  occupying  the  points  and  coves. 

On  the  north,  the  British  resident,  Mr.  Busby,  has  built  a  large  and 
commodious  cottage,  and  commenced  laying  out  his  grounds  in  town 
lots  for  the  future  city  of  Victoria,  of  which  there  was  a  public  sale 
previous  to  our  arrival.  All  the  lots  were,  I  believe,  purchased  on 
speculation,  for  after  seeing  the  locality,  one  must  be  convinced  that  it 
offers  no  advantages  for  more  than  a  village,  if  indeed  for  that.  More 
to  the  westward,  is  situated  Pahia,  the  mission  establishment.  For 
commercial  purposes,  the  south  or  Kororarika  shore  offers  the  greatest 
advantages,  having  the  deepest  water,  and  being  the  most  sheltered 
from  the  stormy  winds. 

The  extent  to  which  speculation  has  raised  the  prices  of  land  in  this 
neighbourhood  is  almost  incredible.  Mayew's  Point,  the  first  above 
Kororarika  Bay,  has  on  it  a  few  storehouses,  which  are  rented  for  six 
hundred  pounds  ($3,000)  a-year. 

Mr.  Clendon,  the  American  consul,  for  about  three  hundred  and 
twenty-five  acres,  of  which  only  fifty  are  level,  has  received  thirty 
thousand  pounds  from  the  British  government,  reserving  to  himself 
the  remainder,  one  hundred  acres.  He  bought  the  whole  for  a  trifle 
a  few  years  ago.  The  location  is  a  pretty  one,  on  a  hill  about  three 
hundred  feet  high,  and  is,  perhaps,  the  most  commanding  spot  on  these 
waters.  The  neatness  of  his  cottage  and  of  the  grounds  about  it  adds 
much  to  its  pleasing  appearance. 

The  introduction  of  a  Sydney  police  at  Kororarika  has  been  of 
service  to  that  place,  for  they  have  dealt  in  a  summary  manner  with 
the  vagabonds  who  formerly  frequented  it. 

A  Roman  Catholic  bishop  is  established  here,  who  has  a  chapel, 
and  it  was  said,  was  making  many  converts;  but  it  was  supposed  that 
the  principal  inducement  to  conversion  was  the  liberality  with  which 
he  and  his  associates  bestowed  gifts  and  presents  upon  those  who 
joined  in  their  prayers  and  received  the  cross. 

Besides  the  Episcopal  mission,  under  the  Reverend  Mr.  Williams, 
formerly  a  lieutenant  in  the  British  navy,  there  is  a  Wesleyan  mission 
at  Hokianga,  which  is  highly  spoken  of.  Many  reports  have  been  put 
in  circulation  by  the  evil-disposed,  in  relation  to  these  missions ;  but 
as  far  as  my  observations  went,  they  seemed  exemplary  in  their  duties; 
they  were  also  occupied  in  farming,  in  which  native  labourers  were 
employed.  Mr.  Williams  having  a  large  family  growing  up,  many  of 


NEW    ZEALAND.  333 

them  obtained  farms,  and  are  now  in  the  successful  occupation  of  them. 
There  is  no  doubt  the  hue  and  cry  against  the  father,  that  the  mis- 
sion had  obtained  all  the  best  land  from  the  natives,  arose  from  this 
cause.  Some  circumstances  were  remarked,  from  which  it  was 
evident  that  the  interests  of  the  natives  were  looked  after  by  the 
missionaries,  who  protected  their  lands  and  induced  them  not  to  sell  to 
the  emigrants,  who  would  otherwise  have  found  them  only  too  ready 
to  part  with  them. 

It  is  true  that  the  situation  of  these  missionaries  of  the  Church  of 
England  is  different  from  that  of  any  we  had  heretofore  seen,  and 
equally  so  that  they  do  not  appear  to  have  succeeded  as  well  in  making 
proselytes  as  those  in  the  other  Polynesian  islands ;  but  I  am  persuaded 
that  they  have  done  and  are  still  endeavouring  to  do  much  good. 
They  are,  however,  separated,  as  it  were,  from  their  flocks,  and  con- 
sequently, cannot  have  that  control  over  their  behaviour  that  would  be 
desirable.  Many  scenes,  therefore,  take  place  at  the  pas  or  strong- 
holds, that  might  be  prevented  if  the  missionaries  mingled  more  with 
their  converts. 

Mr.  Williams  was  kind  enough  to  have  divine  service  at  the  house 
where  our  naturalists  stayed, — Mr.  Tibbey's.  I  was  not  a  little 
surprised  when  I  heard  that  Mr.  Williams  had  refused  any  opportunity 
to  our  philologist  to  inspect  a  grammar  of  the  New  Zealand  language, 
that  was  then  going  through  the  press.  I  mention  the  circumstance 
as  remarkable,  from  being  the  only  instance  of  the  kind  that  occurred 
to  us  during  the  cruise  ;  and  it  cannot  be  easily  imagined  what  could 
have  been  the  cause  of  his  refusal,  for  a  very  short  period  after  our 
departure  it  would  be  published,  and  there  could  have  been  no  fear  of 
his  being  forestalled  by  us. 

Among  the  natives  the  taboo  is  yet  law,  though  endeavours  are 
making  to  introduce  other  laws  among  them.  It  was  told  me,  on 
good  authority,  that  there  had  been  a  trial  for  murder  by  a  jury  of 
chiefs  at  or  near  Hokianga,  under  the  direction  of  a  white  man,  but 
there  was  great  reason  to  believe  that  the  person  did  not  receive  that 
impartial  justice  which  a  duly  organized  court  would  have  assured 
him.  The  evidence  was  said  to  have  been  deficient,  but  the  current 
belief  being  against  him,  he  was  notwithstanding  shot. 

The  natives,  we  were  told,  were  not  a  little  surprised  at  the  sum- 
mary way  in  which  justice,  or  rather  punishment,  is  dealt  out  by  the 
magistrate  of  Kororarika. 

Their  taboo  laws  are  very  strict,  and  carefully  observed,  even 
among  those  who  are  considered  Christians.  The  chief,  Tomati, 
refused  to  enter  the  house  of  a  person  whom  he  took  Mr.  Hale  to  visit; 


381  NEW    ZEALAND. 

for  if  he  had  entered,  it  would  have  become  tabooed ;  and  the  native 
law,  which  does  not  permit  any  man  to  enter  a  house  in  which  a 
chief  has  resided,  even  temporarily,  would  have  compelled  him  to 
abandon  his  dwelling.  Women  alone  are  allowed  to  enter  the  houses 
of  chiefs.  An  instance  of  this  was  witnessed  at  the  pa  of  Pomare, 
and  another  where  we  attempted  to  purchase  the  prow  of  a  canoe. 
This  prow,  which  was  elaborately  carved  to  represent  some  non- 
descript animal,  with  a  human  head,  having  the  tongue  protruded, 
was  accidentally  seen  in  an  out-of-the-way  storehouse,  and  was  some- 
what mutilated ;  it  had  belonged  to  the  late  chief  Kiwikiwi,  and  was 
tabooed  in  the  first  degree.  Overtures  were  made  to  the  widow  of 
Kiwikiwi  for  its  purchase.  It  was  evidently  considered  very  sacred, 
for  none  of  the  natives  would  touch  it,  or  even  enter  the  storehouse  in 
which  it  was  kept.  Notwithstanding  all  its  sacredness,  it  was  sold, 
after  a  little  chafi'ering,  for  six  dollars.  The  first  price  asked  was  two 
pounds,  but  the  widow  could  not  resist  the  chance  of  its  sale.  After 
the  bargain  was  concluded,  no  native  could  be  found  willing  to  incur 
the  penalty  of  the  taboo,  by  carrying  it.  When  the  transportation 
was  accomplished,  a  new  and  unexpected  difficulty  arose :  it  could 
not  be  carried  across  the  water  in  a  canoe,  as  it  was  against  taboo  to 
do  it.  The  threat  of  making  them  refund  the  money,  and  take  back 
the  ihu  or  nose,  so  worked  upon  the  covetousness  of  old  Kawiti,  the 
chief,  that  he  consented  to  remove  it,  and  also  promised  to  come  the 
next  day  and  paint  it  red,  after  the  native  fashion.  This  he  punctually 
performed,  using  a  kind  of  red  earth  mixed  with  water.  This  is 
represented  in  the  tail-piece  at  the  end  of  this  chapter. 

The  taboo  is  always  resorted  to,  to  protect  their  kumara-patches, 
and  the  fear  of  breaking  it  was  strongly  shown  by  the  intrusion  of  Mr. 
Tibbey's  goats  into  the  kumara-patch  of  Pomare,  near  his  pa.  No  one 
could  be  induced  to  go  in  to  drive  them  out,  for  fear  of  punishment ; 
and  a  message  was  sent  to  the  chief  to  allow  them  to  be  expelled. 
After  the  permission  was  given,  the  natives  could  not  be  induced  to 
enter  by  any  olher  place  but  that  where  the  goats  had  broken  through. 

The  natives,  for  the  most  part,  have  their  permanent  residence  in 
towns,  or  what  are  here  termed  "  pas,"  which  are  generally  built  on 
high  promontories,  or  insulated  hills,  and  fortified  in  a  rude  fashion, 
with  a  palisade  of  upright  stakes,  about  ten  feet  high :  the  houses  or 
huts  are  all  built  closely  together. 

Pomare's  pa  being  near  our  anchorage,  was  frequently  visited.  It 
contained  about  three  hundred  huts.  There  was  a  main  entrance 
through  the  palisade,  near  which  are  two  posts,  the  tops  of  which  are 
carved  into  distorted  representations  of  the  human  figure. 


NEW    ZEALAND. 


385 


DRAWINGS  OF  NEW  ZEALAND  CARVING. 


Within  the  main  enclosure  are  other  enclosures,  each  containing 
five  or  six  houses,  with  alleys  of  two  feet  wide,  that  traverse  the  town. 
Their  houses  are  very  simply  constructed :  four  corner-posts  are 
driven  into  the  ground,  and  left  from  two  to  five  feet  above  the  sur- 
face; in  the  centre  line  two  or  three  strong  posts  are  firmly  set  in  the 
ground,  to  support  the  ridge-pole  of  the  roof;  on  the  posts  is  placed 
and  lashed  a  horizontal  beam  for  the  rafters  to  rest  upon,  and  smaller 
poles  are  lashed  to  the  posts,  at  one  foot  apart,  from  the  ground  up ; 
on  these  the  roofing  is  worked  :  the  material  used  in  thatching  is  the 
rush  (Typha  latifolia),  or  our  common  cattail.  The  manner  of  making 
the  roof  is  to  tie  the  materials  on  the  horizontal  strips  or  poles,  setting 
the  larger  ends  on  the  ground,  and  driving  them  close  against  each 
other,  generally  with  the  fist,  and  so  on  until  all  is  closed  in,  leaving 
doorways  under  the  eaves,  at  the  gable-ends ;  the  rappooing  is  then 
cut  square  off  at  the  upper  horizontal  beam  or  plate-piece,  and  the 
roof  is  put  on,  made  of  the  same  material,  and  generally  thatched 
with  it  or  fern.  The  roofs  have  usually  but  little  pitch,  which  gives  a 
squat  look  to  the  houses.  Mats  are  generally  hung  up  at  the  doorways, 
but  some  have  doors  made  of  pine ;  they  are  low,  obliging  one  to 
stoop  or  creep,  in  entering.  Around  their  houses  they  have  usually 
peach  trees  growing,  but  nothing  else  is  cultivated  about  them. 

The  furniture  consists  of  mats,  a  few  baskets  and  trinkets,  an  old 
chest  to  lock  them  up  in,  an  iron  pot,  and  a  double-barrelled  gun, 
generally  of  the  best  maker. 


VOL.  II. 


49 


386 


NEW    ZEALAND. 


Pomare's  house  was  about  twenty  feet  long  by  twelve  broad ;  from 
five  to  eight  feet  high.  The  mode  of  construction  was  the  same  as 
above  described,  with  the  exception  that  the  rafters  were  flat  and 
ornamented  with  arabesque  work,  drawn  with  soot  or  black  pigment. 
The  posts  were  likewise  carved  ;  but  from  the  dirt  and  filth  with  which 
they  were  covered,  it  was  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  decipher  them. 
It  is  said  that  the  New  Zealanders  have  improved  in  the  art  of  building 
since  they  were  first  visited,  but  they  are  still  in  this  respect  far  behind 
any  of  the  islanders  we  have  visited. 

Four  of  our  gentlemen,  before  my  arrival,  had  paid  Pomare  a  visit, 
and  made  him  some  presents,  which,  so  far  from  satisfying  his  cupidity, 
only  made  him  more  covetous.  On  receiving  a  watch-chain,  he  asked 
for  the  watch  ;  and  could  not  be  induced  to  exhibit  a  dance,  unless  each 
person  presented  him  with  a  shilling.  This  exaction  was  submitted  to, 
though  they  were  disgusted  and  disappointed  with  the  greediness  he 
manifested.  The  dance  proved  very  similar  to  those  seen  among  the 
Samoans  and  Tahitians,  with  the  same  tossing  of  the  arms  and  legs, 


NEW    ZEALAND.  387 

and  various  contortions  of  the  body,  performed  by  a  number  of  men 
and  women.  The  only  music  was  that  of  the  voice,  two  or  three 
singing  in  a  high  monotonous  key.  The  dance  was,  however,  seen  to 
disadvantage  by  candlelight. 

On  the  top  of  the  hill  is  a  sacred  enclosure,  or  Kianga-taboo,  in 
which  is  erected  the  tombs  of  the  chiefs.  A  few  days  before  our  visit 
one  was  interred  here.  The  vignette  represents  the  tomb. 

This  tomb  is  formed  of  a  small  canoe,  cut  across  through  the  middle, 
and  the  two  parts  joined  face  to  face,  forming  a  hollow  cone,  about 
seven  or  eight  feet  long.  The  corpse  is  placed  inside,  in  a  sitting 
posture,  and  would  remain  there  a  year,  after  which  the  bones  would 
be  carried  up  the  river,  and  as  Charley  Pomare  expressed  it,  would  be 
"  thrown  away  any  where." 

The  tomb  is  painted  red,  and  ornamented  with  feathers  on  each  side, 
from  the  ground  to  the  top  ;  it  is  covered  with  a  small  shed,  to  protect 
it  from  the  weather,  and  enclosed  all  around  with  a  fence.  The 
funeral  ceremonies  were  not  witnessed,  but,  from  the  description  of 
the  natives,  were  very  noisy,  and  accompanied  with  firing  of  many 
guns, — a  general  practice  on  all  public  occasions.  Their  faces  and 
arms  bore  evident  marks  of  their  having  been  engaged  in  the  cere- 
mony, being  covered  with  scratches  which  they  had  inflicted  on 
themselves. 

The  pas  of  the  natives  are  not  in  reality  strong  places,  but  are  little 
more  than  insulated  and  commanding  situations.  Pomare  makes  some 
show  of  warlike  instruments,  in  the  formidable  array  of  three  ten- 
pounders,  all  of  them  in  bad  condition,  though  looked  at  and  spoken 
of  by  the  natives  with  no  small  pride  and  conceit.  The  natives,  in 
time  of  peace,  do  not  live  constantly  in  these  pas,  but  are  mostly 
occupied  at  their  plantation-grounds  ;  for  which  reason  only  a  few 
men  were  seen  lounging  about  in  front  of  their  houses.  The  women 
were  generally  engaged  in  making  and  plaiting  mats,  or  cooking,  and 
the  men  seemed  the  greater  idlers. 

Their  native  dress  consists  of  mats  of  various  kinds,  made  of  the 
native  flax  (Phomax),  which  are  braided  by  hand,  and  are,  some  of 
them,  finer  than  carpeting,  while  others  are  as  coarse  as  our  corn-leaf 
mats.  The  latter  were  worn  by  the  women  while  at  work,  tied  around 
the  hips,  and  sometimes  over  the  shoulders.  They  carry  their  children 
on  the  back,  like  our  Indians. 

The  men  were  more  luxurious  in  their  dress,  having  fine  mats,  nearly 
as  large  in  size  as  our  blankets,  ingeniously  and  beautifully  wrought, 
and  sometimes  embroidered.  Both  of  these  kinds  are  still  worn, 
though  they  are  gradually  disappearing,  and  the  dress  is  becoming 


388  NEW    ZEALAND. 

more  European,  or  rather  Tahitian.  The  women  now  often  wear 
loose  slips  of  calico,  drawn  about  the  neck,  which  are  any  thing  but 
becoming,  while  the  men  have  coarse  clothing,  sometimes  a  dirty  white 
blanket,  at  others,  different  parts  of  European  dress.  The  blanket  is 


NEW  ZEALAND  WOMAN  AND  CHILD. 


worn  in  the  same  manner  as  the  native  kakahu.  They  never  think 
it  necessary  to  use  clothing  for  a  covering;  it  is  worn  more  from  pride 
and  ostentation  than  any  thing  else ;  and  not  unfrequently  a  native 
may  be  seen  decked  out  in  a  coat  and  vest  without  any  covering  on  his 
nether  limbs,  and  occasionally  with  a  pea-jacket  and  no  shirt.  That 
which  gives  a  foreigner  a  peculiar  disgust  to  the  persons  of  the  New 
Zealanders,  is  their  filth,  which  also  pervades  their  houses.  They 
seldom,  if  ever,  bathe  themselves,  or  wash  their  clothes,  which  are 
usually  worn  until  they  drop  off  from  age.  They  occasionally  anoint 
their  skins  with  fish-oil,  and  of  course  cannot  b3  expected  to  keep 
themselves  clean. 

To  their  houses,  the  description  of  Cook  still  applies :  they  arc 
small,  low,  begrimed  with  soot,  besmeared  with  grease,  and  are  filled 
with  filth.  As  yet,  their  furniture  has  received  no  addition  from  their 
intercourse  with  the  whites,  except  the  huge  sea-chest  and  iron  pot : 
the  former  to  deposit  their  valuables  in,  and  the  latter  for  cooking.  It 
was  remarked  by  us  all,  how  few  of  the  grotesque  figures,  so  much 
spoken  of  by  voyagers,  were  to  be  seen.  There  appeared  to  be  little 


NEW    ZEALAND.  391 

Pomare  is  said  to  place  much  confidence  in  her  judgment.  She  was 
the  best-looking  native  I  saw  in  New  Zealand,  but  would  not  be  called 
handsome  elsewhere.  The  missionaries  have  not  yet  been  able  to 
produce  any  effect  upon  Pomare  or  the  family  connected  with  him. 
Pomare's  chief  warrior  is  Mauparawa,  who  has  been  persuaded 
to  remain  with  him,  although  a  native  of  Hauaki,  on  the  river 
Thames. 

Mauparawa  is  a  much  finer-looking  man  than  Pomare, — in  appear- 
ance a  very  Hercules;  but  the  effects  of  dissipation  are  beginning  to  be 
perceived  in  his  powerful  frame.  He  has  long  been  a  favourite  with 
the  whites,  who  admire  him  for  his  prowess.  Many  of  his  followers 
came  with  him  to  join  Pomare,  of  whom  few  are  now  left ;  for  in  an 
expedition  last  year  he  lost  almost  all  of  them :  having  landed  on  Aoteu 
or  Barrier  Island,  he  was  overpowered  and  badly  wounded,  barely 
escaping  with  life.  One  of  his  acts  of  daring  took  place  in  the  last 
feuds  with  the  Kororarikans,  by  whom  he  was  much  detested.  Wishing 
to  put  a  disgrace  upon  them  and  show  his  contempt,  he  one  night  took 
his  canoe,  and  with  six  of  his  followers  left  Pomare's  pa  or  stronghold 
for  Kororarika,  the  heart  of  his  enemies'  strength.  He  landed  there 
in  the  midst  of  his  foes,  whom  he  found  fast  asleep.  Drawing  up  his 
canoe  on  the  beach,  he  went  to  the  house  of  a  white  man,  whom  he 
awoke,  and  ordered  him  to  give  himself  and  followers  some  spirits, 
threatening  him,  in  case  of  refusal,  with  instant  death.  They  took 
their  spirits  quietly,  desiring  the  man  to  say  to  the  Kororarikans  in 
the  morning,  that  Mauparawa  had  been  there  in  the  night,  with  some 
insulting  message ;  but  before  leaving,  it  occurred  to  him  that  the  man 
would  not  have  the  courage  to  tell  of  his  visit :  he  therefore  determined 
to  leave  his  own  canoe,  (which  was  very  well  known,)  and  take  a 
whale-boat  in  its  stead.  All  of  which  was  done  merely  to  throw  a  slur 
upon  his  enemies,  at  the  risk  of  his  own  life. 

Another  person  of  some  note,  is  a  cousin  of  Pomare,  called 
Charley  Pomare,  the  son  of  the  former  ruling  chief  of  that  name. 
Hoia,  the  brother  of  the  king,  appears  to  be  a  stupid  fellow.  Charley 
Pomare  was  very  talkative,  and  although  young,  appears  well-informed 
in  the  history  of  the  island,  and  is  quite  intelligent.  In  his  accounts, 
he  dwells  particularly  on  the  extensive  ravages  committed  by  Shougi, 
who  I  believe  was  taken  or  went  to  Europe.  After  his  return,  finding 
he  had  lost  influence  in  his  tribe,  in  order  to  regain  it,  he  committed 
some  of  the  most  barbarous  cruelties  that  have  ever  disgraced  these 
islands,  and  made  his  name  terrible  among  the  tribes.  Most  of  these, 
before  his  wars,  had  from  three  hundred  to  one  thousand  warriors,  but 
only  a  few  now  remain  in  some  of  those  who  were  formerly  powerful 


392  NEW    ZEALAND. 

and  independent,  and  who  being  from  their  weakness  unable  to  contend 
by  themselves,  have  become  incorporated  with  other  tribes.  The 
reason  that  the  natives  give  for  this  diminution  is,  that  Shougi  had 
killed  them  all.  His  conquests  embraced  nearly  all  the  northern  part 
of  the  north  island,  whose  warriors  he  then  united,  and  led  against  the 
people  of  the  south,  about  Hauaki,  on  the  river  Thames.  With  these 
he  waged  a  long  and  bloody  war,  and  extended  the  name  of  Ngapuhi, 
which  properly  belongs  to  the  people  about  the  Bay  of  Islands,  as  far 
south  as  Kiapara.  His  death,  which  happened  a  few  years  since,  was 
a  great  relief  both  to  his  followers  and  foes. 

The  last  war  took  place  in  1837,  about  two  years  before  our  arrival. 
It  was,  in  all  probability,  the  last  native  contest  that  will  be  waged.  It 
was  caused  by  the  disappearance  of  a  woman  of  Otuiha,  whom  the 
tribe  of  Kororarika  were  suspected  and  accused  of  having  killed  and 
eaten.  Formidable  preparations  \vere  made,  and  the  allies  on  both 
sides  called  in ;  the  people  of  Kororarika  being  aided  by  the  forces 
from  Hokianga.  The  principal  battle  was  fought  in  a  piece  of  marshy 
ground  between  Waikereparu  and  Otuiha.  Here  Pomare,  better  known 
by  the  name  of  Charley,  then  quite  a  boy,  led  the  forces  of  Otuiha, 
while  those  of  Kororarika  were  marshalled  by  Pi,  a  great  chief  of 
Hokianga ;  and  the  fight  was  terminated  by  Charley  first  shooting  Pi, 
and  then  the  second  chief,  who  was  endeavouring  to  save  the  body, 
with  his  double-barrelled  gun.  The  heads  of  the  warriors  were  cut 
off',  and  preserved  as  trophies,  while  their  bodies  were  left  on  the 
ground.  They  were  not  eaten,  though  the  Hokianga  people  are  said 
to  be  cannibals.  This  latter  imputation,  however,  should  be  received 
with  caution,  as  the  information  was  derived  from  their  enemies. 

From  all  I  could  learn,  Pomare  is  not  deemed  very  courageous, 
and  was  not  himself  engaged  in  the  fight.  He  is  looked  upon  as  quite 
avaricious,  and  as  a  great  coward  :  he  is  much  addicted  to  liquor.  It 
will,  perhaps,  excite  surprise  to  learn  how  he  came  to  exercise  the 
influence  he  docs  over  his  countrymen  ;  it  is  entirely  owing  to  his 
eloquence,  by  which  he  is  enabled  to  lead  them  any  where.  When 
Charley  was  asked  the  cause  of  his  uncle's  influence,  he  said  that 
Pomare  could  lead  the  people  wherever  he  chose  ;  and  to  the  question 
as  to  why  he  himself  was  not  king,  he  answered,  "  Oh,  that  is  maori" 
(country  fashion). 

Some  of  the  gentlemen  visited  the  pa  of  Pomare,  for  the  purpose  of 
witnessing  his  return  from  a  visit  to  one  of  his  allies.  The  canoe  was 
seen  coming  up  the  bay,  paddled  by  forty-five  natives,  and  on  the  side 
of  the  hill  all  the  people  of  the  pa  were  collected,  shouting,  waving 
their  garments,  and  firing  muskets,  to  welcome  their  friends.  When 


NEW    ZEALAND.  393 

the  chief  touched  the  shore,  a  curious  scene  ensued.  All  the  boatmen 
seized  their  paddles,  and  ran  some  distance  along  the  beach,  where 
they  halted,  and  formed  themselves  into  a  compact  body,  in  martial 
array.  Those  of  the  pa  did  the  same,  and  were  stationed  in  front  of 
the  canoe  ;  the  former  party  then  returned,  and  when  near,  the  latter 
made  simultaneously,  ten  or  twelve  leaps  directly  upward,  waving  their 
paddles  over  their  heads,  and  giving  at  each  jump,  a  hard  guttural 
sound,  like  hooh.  The  two  parties  then  changed  positions,  when  the 
boatmen  went  through  the  same  motions,  after  which  the  whole 
mingled  together.  This  ceremony  was  supposed  to  represent  that  used 
on  the  return  of  a  war-party.  Pomare  was  found  shortly  afterwards 
seated  in  front  of  his  house,  surrounded  by  his  people,  who  were  busily 
engaged  in  preparing  a  great  feast,  for  which  he  was  giving  directions, 
and  which  shortly  took  place,  accompanied  by  much  merry-making. 

The  chief,  Pomare,  on  one  occasion  paid  a  visit  to  the  gentlemen 
of  the  squadron  at  Mr.  Tibbey's,  with  some  fish  for  sale,  and  for  which 
he  had  been  fishing  several  hours.  He  first  asked  a  shilling  for  them, 
which  was  handed  to  him,  when  he  immediately  raised  his  price  to 
two  shillings,  and  when  this  was  refused,  he  went  away  in  high 
dudgeon,  and  complained  to  me  on  my  arrival,  that  he  had  not  been 
treated  well.  Many  instances  of  the  same  kind  occurred. 

Mr.  Hale  induced  Hoia,  Pomare's  brother,  to  give  him  a  list  of  the 
various  clans  of  the  great  Yopaki  tribe,  which  under  Shougi  had 
formerly  been  the  terror  of  all  New  Zealand.  From  this  and  other 
authorities,  the  number  of  the  tribes  were  given  at  one  hundred  and 
five,  in  which  were  comprised  upwards  of  sixty  thousand  fighting 
men.  Those  who  are  more  acquainted,  and  have  the  best  oppor- 
tunities of  knowing,  state  the  population  at  less  than  three  hundred 
thousand ;  there  are  others  who  rate  the  population  from  thirty  to  forty 
thousand.  A  mean  between  the  two  estimates  would  be  nearer  the 
truth.  From  the  information  I  received,  I  am  satisfied  that  it  cannot 
be  great.  The  population  of  both  islands  is  said  to  amount  to  from 
one  hundred  and  forty  to  one  hundred  and  eighty  thousand,  and  the 
whole  of  this  number  are  on  the  north  island,  with  the  exception  of 
three  or  four  thousand  who  are  on  the  southern  island.  It  is  re- 
markable that  every  tribe  has  a  name  peculiar  to  itself,  and  distinct 
from  the  district  which  it  inhabits :  thus  the  natives  of  Kororarika  are 
called  Yaitawake ;  those  of  Hauaki  (the  river  Thames),  Ngaitawake ; 
and  with  few  exceptions  these  names  begin  with  the  syllable  of  Nga  or 
Ngati — most  commonly  the  latter.  These  names  are  thought  to  have 
reference  to  clanship.  The  members  of  each  tribe  appear  to  be  all 
connected  by  the  ties  of  consanguinity. 

VOL.  ii.  50 


394  NEW    ZEALAND. 

Some  of  our  naturalists  made  a  visit  to  a  town  called  Wangarara, 
situated  near  the  coast,  about  thirty  miles  to  the  southward  of  Cape 
Brett.  They  passed  up  the  Waicaddie  river  eleven  miles  to  Waicaddie 
Pa.  Here  they  found  a  missionary  station  occupied  by  a  Mr.  Baker ; 
but  none  of  the  family  were  at  home.  The  old  chief  of  Waicaddie 
was  very  indignant,  and  treated  them  quite  uncivilly,  because  they 
were  going  to  Wangarara.  After  procuring  a  guide,  they  set  out  on 
foot  for  that  place.  The  distance  is  twelve  miles,  which  they  accom- 
plished by  sunset.  The  road  lay  over  mountains.  The  village  of 
Wangarara  consists  of  four  or  five  miserable  huts,  or  what  would 
more  properly  be  designated  kennels,  made  in  the  rudest  manner,  and 
thatched  with  fern-leaves.  In  order  to  enter  these,  they  were  obliged 
to  crawl  on  their  hands  and  knees.  The  furniture  of  the  chiefs  house 
consisted  of  a  few  mats,  two  or  three  fishing  nets,  and  an  old  chest. 
A  fire  was  smoking  in  the  centre  to  keep  out  the  musquitoes,  and  the 
resemblance  to  a  smoke-house  was  striking ;  or,  perhaps,  the  latter 
would  have  suffered  by  the  comparison.  The  accommodations  in  this 
hut  were  rather  confined  and  crowded ;  for  besides  themselves,  there 
were  three  runaway  sailors  as  guests.  They,  therefore,  gladly  ac- 
cepted the  invitation  of  the  chief  Ko-towatowa,  who  was  on  a  visit 
here,  to  accompany  him  to  his  hut,  at  the  mouth  of  the  bay.  They 
went  with  him  in  his  fine  large  canoe,  and  reached  his  residence  late 
in  the  evening,  where  they  found  themselves  much  more  comfortably 
accommodated,  having  clean  mats  and  a  good  supper  of  pigeons  and 
potatoes.  This  was  Ko-towatowa's  principal  farm.  His  pa  is  situated 
a  few  miles  up  the  bay,  on  a  rocky  point,  and  contains  one  hundred 
and  fifty  houses.  It  was,  at  the  time  of  their  visit,  nearly  deserted,  in 
consequence  of  the  attention  demanded  by  their  crops ;  and  this  is  the 
case  with  nearly  all  the  other  pas  at  this  season. 

This  part  of  the  country  is  flat,  and  has  a  good  soil ;  and  here  Ko- 
towatowa  raises  most  of  his  potatoes  and  kumaras,  which  are  larger 
and  better  than  those  raised  at  the  Bay  of  Islands.  They  also  raise 
a  good  supply  of  Indian  corn,  and  are  at  no  loss  for  food,  which  was 
evident  from  the  quantities  of  dried  as  well  as  fresh  fish  which  was 
seen. 

A  great  difference  was  perceived  between  the  natives  of  this  place 
and  those  of  the  Bay  of  Islands.  The  former  have  had  little  or  no 
communication  with  foreigners,  their  manners  are  more  simple,  and 
they  have  little  or  no  idea  of  the  conventional  value  of  money.  The 
people  of  this  place  appeared  more  virtuous  and  happy,  and  a  number 
of  young  women  were  seen,  good-looking,  sprightly,  and  full  of 
animation. 


NEW    ZEALAND. 


395 


NEW  ZEALAND  OIUL. 


They  here  saw  the  old  chief  of  Wangarara,  grand-uncle  to  Ko-to- 
watowa.  He  was  very  feeble,  with  white  hair,  and  clad  in  an  old 
dogskin  robe.  He  was  observed  to  sit  all  day  on  a  small  mound  of 
dirt  and  pipi-shells ;  having  lately  lost  a  relation,  he,  according  to 
custom,  is  tabooed  for  the  season.  He  does  not  help  himself,  and  is 
not  allowed  to  touch  any  thing  with  his  hands ;  his  grand-daughter,  a 
sprightly  girl,  waits  upon  him ;  and  it  was  pleasing  to  witness  the 
watchfulness  she  evinced  in  attending  to  his  wants,  often  filling  and 
lighting  his  pipe,  and  holding  it  in  his  mouth  while  he  smoked.  Not- 
withstanding the  promising  appearance  of  Ko-towatowa's  house  and 
premises,  it  was  found  swarming  with  fleas  and  other  vermin.  Ko- 
towatowa  is  a  member  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  and  daily  per- 
formed worship  in  his  native  tongue.  After  their  morning  meal,  they 
began  their  rambles,  but  had  not  proceeded  far  before  they  were 
met  by  a  large  party  of  natives,  who  kept  saying  to  them,  "  walk 
about  one  hilling"  by  which  they  soon  understood  that  they  were 
required  to  pay  one  shilling  for  the  privilege  of  walking  on  the  beach 
and  picking  up  shells ;  on  Ko-towatowa's  being  appealed  to,  he  soon 
dispersed  them.  On  a  hill,  near  this  place,  Mr.  Drayton  found  a 
beautiful  specimen  of  Bulimus  Shougii. 

Wangarara  Bay  is  a  deep  indentation  in  the  coast,  to  which  it  runs 
parallel,  and  is  separated  from  the  ocean  by  a  narrow  belt  of  high  and 
rocky  land.  It  is  said  to  have  good  anchorage  for  a  distance  of  six 
miles  from  its  mouth.  The  entrance  is  very  deep,  free  from  danger, 
and  about  one  mile  wide:  it  is  a  much  safer  port  than  the  Bay  of 
Islands.  A  vessel  might  pass  by  its  entrance  without  suspecting  that 


396  N  E  W    Z  E  A  L  A  N  D. 

a  harbour  existed.  Provisions  of  all  kinds  are  much  cheaper  and 
better  than  at  the  Bay  ;  and  although  the  natives  are  aware  of  this 
difference,  yet  not  being  able  to  transport  their  provisions  there,  they 
are  content  to  dispose  of  them  for  a  less  price. 

Their  kind  friend  Ko-towatowa  took  them  back  to  Wangarara, 
stopping  on  the  way  at  his  pa,  where  he  presented  them  with  quanti- 
ties of  peaches,  which  had  been  tabooed  to  his  people.  At  Wanga- 
rara they  again  found  their  guide,  and  the  two  old  chiefs, — the  elder  of 
whom  was  called  Kawau,  and  the  other,  a  little  younger,  Ruahenna : 
both  of  them  have  the  character  of  being  great  rascals.  The  contrast 
between  them  and  Ko-towatowa  was  very  much  to  their  disparage- 
ment. With  some  reluctance  they  ordered  a  pot  of  potatoes  to  be 
boiled ;  but  when  night  came,  they  positively  refused  entrance  into 
their  huts  unless  each  gave  a  shilling,  to  which  Ko-towatowa  sternly 
objected,  saying  that  they  were  his  guests,  and  should  not  pay.  A 
quarrel  between  the  chiefs  ensued,  and  the  only  way  it  was  prevented 
from  going  to  extremity,  was  to  slip  the  money  quietly  into  old  Ka- 
wau's  hand ;  after  which,  peace  was  restored,  and  they  retired  for  the 
night,  where  they  were  effectually  tormented  by  the  fleas  and  vermin. 
Ko-towatowa,  on  taking  leave  of  them,  refused  any  compensation  for 
his  services ;  but  a  pressing  invitation  to  pay  them  a  visit  at  the  bay 
was  accepted. 

They  returned  by  the  same  route,  and  by  noon  reached  Waicaddie 
Pa.  It  contains  about  two  hundred  houses,  and  is  situated  between 
two  small  fresh-water  streams.  This  is  the  most  cleanly  and  extensive 
town  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Bay  of  Islands.  Mr.  Baker,  of  the 
Episcopal  Mission,  has  settled  here ;  he  has  many  acres  of  land,  and 
comfortable  dwellings,  farms  extensively,  and  has  about  twenty  head 
of  cattle,  with  good  pasture  for  them.  The  natives  also  possess  some 
cattle.  By  night  they  reached  their  lodgings. 

One  who  has  long  known  the  New  Zealanders,  and  on  whose  judg- 
ment reliance  may  be  placed,  gives  them  credit  for  intelligence  and 
generosity,  and  says  that  they  are  hospitable  and  confiding  to  strangers, 
persevering  where  the  object  concerns  themselves,  strongly  attached 
to  their  children,  and  extremely  jealous  of  their  connubial  rights.  A 
violation  of  the  latter  is  punished  with  death,  not  only  to  the  parties 
themselves,  but  sometimes  extended  to  the  near  relatives  of  the 
offenders.  They  are  crafty,  but  not  overreaching  in  their  dealings, 
covetous  for  the  possession  of  novelties,  although  trustworthy  when 
any  thing  is  placed  under  their  immediate  charge,  but  not  otherwise 
over-honest. 

A  transient  visitor  would  hardly  give  them  so  high  a  character,  and 


s  there,  they 

Wangai  i 
with  <.ju. 


nut  pay.     A 

JH'CV' 

',  into  oiti 
i-»;'ijod  1' 


venty  head 


its.  A 
•  .irtiea 

;  -.he 
.ulinga, 

when 


( 
1 


NEW    ZEALAND.  399 

to  the  chiefs  that  is  not  so  observable  in  the  common  people;  they 
want,  however,  the  softness  of  the  rest  of  the  Polynesian  family,  of 
which  they  are  a  part,  not  having  the  full  muscles,  or  soft  contour  of 
face,  which  we  had  hitherto  observed  among  the  groups  we  visited. 
They  are  as  indolent  as  the  other  cognate  races,  but  more  capable  of 
undergoing  fatigue. 

The  following  is  one  of  their  traditions  respecting  their  origin. 
The  first  natives  came  from  Hawaiki,  situated  towards  the  east,  in 
several  canoes,  and  the  names  of  some  of  the  principal  men,  were 
Tanepepeke,  Tanewitika,  Taneweka,  Rongokako,  Kopaia,  Kornan- 
poko :  the  canoes  in  which  they  came  were  called  Kotahinui,  Kotea- 
rawa,  Kohorouta,  Takitima.  They  settled  first  at  Kawia,  on  the  west- 
ern coast;  then  near  Maketu,  Turanga,  and  Ahuriri,  at  the  east  cape. 
The  natives,  it  may  be  as  well  to  remark,  say  that  this  story  is  all 
nonsense,  yet  the  similarity  of  the  foregoing  names  with  those  of  the 
people  of  Savaii,  in  the  Samoan  Group,  is  striking.  This,  connected 
with  the  story,  which  we  shall  hereafter  quote,  of  the  introduction  of 
the  kumara  in  canoes,  taken  together,  would  appear  to  afford  very 
strong  reason  for  the  conjecture  that  they  were  derived  from  the  same 
source.  In  their  native  traditions  there  appears  to  be  some  idea  of  a 
creation,  having  a  general  resemblance  to  that  of  the  other  nations  of 
Polynesia. 

The  trade  in  native  curiosities  is  not  quite  so  great  as  it  used  to  be, 
particularly  in  tattooed  heads.  So  great  at  one  time  was  the  traffic  in 
the  latter  article,  between  New  Zealand  and  Sydney,  that,  in  1831,  it 
was  prohibited  by  law.  In  Governor  Darling's  administration  of  the 
colony,  the  chief  Shougi  is  supposed  to  have  macle  large  sums  by  it, 
and  there  are  some  persons  who,  in  part,  impute  his  wars  to  his  desire 
of  gain;  for,  having  been  in  England,  he  became  acquainted  with  the 
value  set  upon  them,  and  the  demand  for  them.  It  is  generally  thought 
that  many  of  the  heads  thus  sold  have  been  prepared  by  the  white  run- 
away convicts,  who  have  learnt  the,mode  of  doing  this  from  the  natives. 
They  are  still  to  be  obtained,  though  great  precaution  is  used  in  dispos- 
ing of  them.  A  missionary  brig,  lying  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  had  many 
curiosities  on  board,  in  the  possession  of  the  steward ;  and  after  the 
buying  of  mats,  &c.,  had  been  finished,  he  invited  our  officers  to  step 
down  to  his  little  store-room,  under  the  forecastle,  where  he  had  a 
curiosity  which  could  not  be  brought  out.  After  this  mysterious  enun- 
ciation, they  followed  him  to  the  bottom  of  the  ladder ;  he  then  told  them 
he  was  about  to  put  his  fate  into  their  hands,  believing  that  they  were 
too  much  men  of  honour  to  betray  him.  He  then  proceeded  to  inform 


400  NEW    ZEALAND. 

them  that  he  had  two  preserved  heads  of  New  Zealand  chiefs,  which  he 
would  sell  for  ten  pounds.  He  could  not  venture,  he  said,  to  produce 
them  on  board  the  brig,  but  if  they  would  appoint  a  place,  he  would 
bring  them.  The  penalty  for  selling  them  was  fifty  guineas,  and  he  con- 
jured them  to  the  most  perfect  secrecy.  These  proved  to  be  beautiful 
specimens,  and  now  form  a  part  of  our  collections.  So  effectually  has 
the  fine  prevented  this  traffic,  that  it  is  an  extremely  difficult  matter  to 
obtain  a  head;  they  are  as  rare  now  as  they  have  been  common 
heretofore ;  and  the  last  place  in  which  it  could  have  been  expected  to 
find  them,  would  have  been  on  board  a  missionary  vessel. 

The  New  Zealanders  are  still  cannibals,  although  in  the  districts 
where  the  missionaries  reside,  they  have  done  much  to  put  a  stop  to 
this  practice.  After  the  arrival  of  our  gentlemen,  an  instance  occurred 
of  a  chief  having  killed  a  boy  about  fourteen  years  of  age,  as  a  medi- 
cine for  his  son,  who  was  sick ;  and  as  this  prescription  did  not  effect 
a  cure,  a  girl  about  the  same  age  was  to  be  served  up,  but  the  timely 
interference  of  the  missionaries  prevented  it. 

The  present  condition  of  the  New  Zealanders  is  inferior  to  that  of 
some  of  the  other  Polynesian  nations.  There  is,  as  in  other  places, 
little  or  no  occasion  for  labour ;  the  industry  of  a  few  weeks  is  all  that 
is  needed  to  supply  them  with  food  for  the  year ;  their  traffic  in  pigs 
and  other  supplies  to  whalers  and  traders  is  quite  sufficient  to  procure 
their  necessary  supply  of  clothing.  It  is  said  their  moral  condition 
has  much  improved  of  late,  and  that  they  are  becoming  sensible  of  the 
advantages  of  civilized  life.  In  the  former  direction  there  is  still  great 
room  for  improvement,  and  the  latter,  I  should  think,  as  yet  far  above 
their  ideas  of  honesty  and  of  the  obligations  they  owe  to  those  about 
them.  Perhaps  those  who  have  become  somewhat  attached  to  the 
Christian  religion  may  be  a  little  improved,  but  the  only  instance  that 
we  can  recall  to  our  recollections  is  that  of  the  chief  Ko-towatowa. 
The  chiefs,  however,  in  general  show  a  growing  disposition  to  acquire 
comforts  about  their  dwellings,  and  in  comparison  with  the  other 
natives,  are  almost  cleanly  in  their  persons.  Industry  is  also  making 
progress  in  the  cultivation  of  their  plantations.  If  I  could  believe  it 
possible  that  the  dwellings  of  the  lower  classes  of  the  people  had  ever 
been  more  filthy,  or  their  persons  less  cleanly,  I  would  more  readily 
credit  that  some  improvement  had  taken  place.  Numbers  are  said  to 
be  able  to  read  and  write  their  own  language,  having  been  taught  by 
the  missionaries,  and  then  have  afterwards  been  known  to  take  a  pride 
in  instructing  others,  and  to  display  a  great  eagerness  in  the  acquisi- 
tion of  farther  knowledge ;  but  they  are  far,  very  far  behind,  in  the 


NEW    ZEALAND.  401 

rudiments  of  education,  the  natives  of  other  groups  where  the  mis- 
sionaries have  been  established,  although,  as  respects  natural  capacity, 
they  may  probably  rank  higher. 

There  is  much  that  is  worthy  of  notice  in  the  missionary  operations 
here.  They  seern  to  have  pursued  a  different  course  from  that  followed 
at  the  other  groups,  and  appear  to  begin  by  teaching  the  useful  arts, 
and  setting  an  example  of  industry.  This  has  given  rise  to  much 
remark.  The  missionaries  of  the  Episcopal  Church  appear  to  keep 
aloof  from  the  natives,  and  an  air  of  stiffness  and  pride,  unbecoming  a 
missionary  in  most  minds,  seems  to  prevail.  They  have  a  chapel  at 
Pahia  and  one  at  Tipoona,  but  very  few  persons  attend ;  their  native 
and  Sunday  schools  have  also  very  few  scholars  ;  and  they  appear  to 
be  doing  but  little  in  making  converts.  Most  of  the  natives,  however, 
have  morning  and  evening  prayers,  but  their  practices  and  characters 
show  any  thing  but  a  reform  in  their  lives.  The  missionaries  hold 
large  tracts  of  land,  and  about  the  Bay  of  Islands  the  Church  Mission 
(Episcopal)  may  be  said  to  have  the  entire  control  of  the  property. 
At  the  missionary  establishment  at  Pahia  they  have  a  printing-press, 
and  have  printed  some  parts  of  the  Scriptures.  They  are  now  printing 
a  New  Zealand  grammar.  In  the  native  traditions,  there  appears  to 
be  some  idea  of  a  creation,  having  a  general  resemblance  to  that  of 
the  other  nations  of  the  Polynesian  groups.  The  first  god  was  Maui, 
who  fished  up  the  earth  out  of  the  sun;  afterwards  a  great  flood  came, 
which  covered  the  land,  and  then  the  waters  were  dried  up  by  another 
god,  who  set  fire  to  the  forest.  From  the  accounts  and  observations 
of  all,  it  may  be  safely  asserted  that  the  natives  have  no  religion. 
Some  few  apparently  follow  the  form  of  it,  and  call  themselves  pro- 
fessing Christians ;  but  the  majority  or  greater  number  of  the  natives 
have  none,  either  Christian  or  pagan.  When  undergoing  tuition  by 
the  missionaries,  they  are  said  frequently  to  stop  and  ask  for  a  present 
for  having  said  their  hymn,  and  it  is  said,  I  know  not  with  what  truth, 
that  the  Catholic  missionaries  have  been  in  the  habit  of  giving  them 
some  small  token  in  the  shape  of  crosses,  which  the  natives  look  upon 
as  a  sort  of  compensation. 

At  Kororarika,  as  has  been  stated,  there  is  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel, 
and  it  is  the  residence  now  of  the  Bishop  of  the  South  Sea  Catholic 
Mission.  Some  singular  anecdotes  are  related  of  the  natives,  of  their 
first  joining  one  denomination  and  then  another,  receiving  little  articles 
as  presents  from  each ;  indeed,  it  is  said  that  there  are  few  of  them 
but  conceive  they  ought  to  be  paid  for  saying  their  prayers,  or 
attending  mass.  At  Hokianga  there  is  also  a  Methodist  or  Wesleyan 

VOL.  n.  51 


402  NEW    ZEALAND. 

Mission,  which  is  generally  considered  the  most  active,  and  is  doing  a 
great  deal  of  good. 

The  native  pas  are  generally  scenes  of  revelry  and  debauchery. 
My  crew  soon  got  tired  of  their  visits  to  that  of  Pomare,  and  com- 
plained much  of  the  dishonesty  of  the  natives.  Pomare  and  his  suite 
paid  the  ship  a  visit  a  few  days  after  our  arrival,  for  the  purpose  of 
obtaining  his  quota  of  presents.  I  received  him  and  all  his  retinue 
with  kindness,  and  made  him  several  presents,  among  which  was  a 
fowling-piece ;  but  he  had,  in  going  round  the  ship,  seen  one  of  Hall's 
patent  rifles,  that  loaded  at  the  breech ;  and  nothing  would  satisfy  him 
but  to  exchange  the  gun  I  had  given  him  for  one  of  these.  He 
surprised  me  by  at  once  comprehending  its  facility  of  use,  and  its 
excellent  manufacture.  After  a  great  deal  of  importunity,  I  consented 
to  the  exchange,  but  found  that  he  was  inclined,  after  having  once 
succeeded,  to  beg  every  thing  that  struck  his  fancy.  In  this  he  was 
followed  by  the  other  chiefs,  among  the  rest  by  Hoia,  his  brother.  To 
the  latter,  I  gave  an  old  cocked-hat,  which  pleased  him  exceedingly,  and 
I  was  not  a  little  amused  to  see  him  wearing  it,  and  dressed  in  a  tight 
coat  and  vest,  with  bare  legs,  exhibiting  one  of  the  most  ridiculous 
figures  imaginable,  although  in  his  own  opinion  the  beau  ideal  of 
elegance.  Pomare  went  about  the  ship  begging  for  military  caps  with 
gold  bands,  and  was  extremely  importunate  until  he  found  that  nothing 
more  could  be  obtained.  I  by  no  means  admired  his  appearance  on 
this  visit ;  for,  although  of  good  proportions,  tall,  and  well  made,  he  is 
awkward  and  parrot-toed.  His  height  and  manner  of  walking  make 
this  defect  more  apparent,  and  he  wants  that  dignity  which  is  sometimes 
seen  in  a  savage  of  our  country.  The  New  Zealanders,  however,  struck 
us  as  having  a  closer  resemblance  to  our  North  American  Indians  than 
any  others  we  had  yet  met  with  among  the  Polynesian  nations.  I  was 
surprised  to  see  how  little  respect  was  paid  to  the  orders  of  Pomare  by 
his  followers,  and  was  told  that  there  is  little  authority  acknowledged  by 
those  who  are  free.  His  slaves  and  wives  are  those  who  must  sustain 
the  burden  of  his  wrath  ;  their  lives  are  at  his  disposal,  and  with  them 
his  will  is  law;  they  seem,  however,  to  be  treated  kindly.  Pomare  is 
said  to  be  entirely  under  the  control  of  his  favourite  wife,  of  whom  I 
have  heretofore  spoken.  She  is  a  far  more  respectable  person  than 
her  husband,  and  was  the  most  intelligent  native  I  met  with. 

Wishing  to  see  their  war-dances,  I  requested  Pomare  to  gratify  us 
with  an  exhibition,  which  he  consented  to  do.  The  ground  chosen 
was  the  hill-side  of  Mr.  Clendon,  our  consul's  place,  where  between 
three  and  four  hundred  natives,  with  their  wives  and  children, 


NEW    ZEALAND.  493 

assembled.  Pomare  divided  the  men  into  three  parties  or  squads,  and 
stationed  these  at  some  distance  from  each  other.  Shortly  after  this 
was  done,  I  received  a  message  from  him,  to  say  that  they  were  all 
hungry,  and  wanted  me  to  treat  them  to  something  to  eat.  This  was 
refused  until  they  had  finished  their  dance,  and  much  delay  took  place 
in  consequence.  Pomare  and  his  warriors  were  at  first  immovable  : 
but  they  in  a  short  time  determined  they  would  unite  on  the  hill-top, 
which  was  accordingly  ordered,  although  I  was  told  they  were  too 
hungry  to  dance  well.  Here  they  arranged  themselves  in  a  solid 
column,  and  began  stamping,  shouting,  jumping,  and  shaking  their 
guns,  clubs,  and  paddles  in  the  air,  with  violent  gesticulations,  to 
a  sort  of  savage  time.  A  more  grotesque  group  cannot  well  be 
imagined ;  dressed,  half-dressed,  or  entirely  naked.  After  much  pre- 
liminary action,  they  all  set  off,  with  a  frantic  shout,  at  full  speed  in  a 
war-charge,  which  not  only  put  to  flight  all  the  animals  that  were 
feeding  in  the  neighbourhood,  but  startled  the  spectators.  After 
running  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  they  fired  their  guns  and 
halted,  with  another  shout.  They  then  returned  in  the  same  manner, 
and  stopped  before  us,  a  truly  savage  multitude,  wrought  up  to 
apparent  frenzy,  and  exhibiting  all  the  modes  practised  of  maiming 
and  killing  their  enemies,  until  they  became  exhausted,  and  lay  down 
on  the  ground  like  tired  dogs,  panting  for  breath.  One  of  the  chiefs 
then  took  an  old  broken  dragoon-sword,  and  began  running  to  and  fro 
before  us,  flourishing  it,  and  at  the  same  time  delivering  a  speech  at 
the  top  of  his  voice.  The  speech,  as  interpreted  to  me,  ran  thus : 
"  You  are  welcome,  you  are  our  friends,  and  we  are  glad  to  see  you  ;" 
frequently  repeated.  After  three  or  four  had  shown  off  in  this  way, 
they  determined  they  must  have  something  to  eat,  saying  that  I  had 
promised  them  rice  and  sugar,  and  they  ought  to  have  it.  Mr. 
Clendon,  however,  persuaded  them  to  give  one  of  their  feast-dances. 
The  performers  consisted  of  about  fifteen  old,  and  as  many  young 
persons,  whom  they  arranged  in  close  order.  The  young  girls  laid 
aside  a  part  of  their  dress  to  exhibit  their  forms  to  more  advantage, 
and  they  commenced  a  kind  of  recitative,  accompanied  by  all  manner 
of  gesticulations,  with  a  sort  of  guttural  husk  for  a  chorus.  It  was 
not  necessary  to  understand  their  language  to  comprehend  their 
meaning,  and  it  is  unnecessary  to  add,  that  their  tastes  did  not  appear 
very  refined,  but  were  similar  to  what  we  have  constantly  observed 
among  the  heathen  nations  of  Polynesia.  Their  impatience  now  be- 
came ungovernable,  and  hearing  that  the  rice  and  sugar  were  being 
served  out,  they  retreated  precipitately  down  the  hill,  where  they  all 
set  to  most  heartily,  with  their  wives  and  children,  to  devour  the  food. 


404  NEW    ZEALAND. 

This  to  me  was  the  most  entertaining  part  of  the  exhibition.  They  did 
not  appear  selfish  towards  each  other ;  the  children  were  taken  care 
of,  and  all  seemed  to  enjoy  themselves.  I  received  many  thanks  in 
passing  among  them,  and  their  countenances  betokened  contentment. 
Although  they  were  clothed  for  the  occasion  in  their  best,  they 
exhibited  but  a  squalid  and  dirty  appearance,  both  in  their  dress  and 
persons. 

No  native  music  was  heard  by  any  of  our  officers,  and  they  seem 
to  have  little  or  none  in  their  composition.  In  their  attempts  to  sing 
the  hymns,  chaunts,  or  old  psalm-tunes,  they  entirely  failed  to  produce 
any  thing  like  a  resemblance.  The  pitch  of  their  voices  when  speak- 
ing, is  higher  than  that  of  Europeans,  (the  French  excepted,)  and  that 
of  the  women  was  not  a  tone  above,  which  gives  additional  coarseness 
to  their  character.  Both  sexes  have  but  little  intonation  in  conversa- 
tion, and  there  are  no  tones  heard  which  would  indicate  sympathy  of 
feeling. 

Chatham  Island,  which  will  probably  soon  be  connected  with  the 
English  colony  of  New  Zealand,  is  now  considered  as  a  nest  of 
rogues,  and  several  vessels  have  been  robbed  there.  Its  inhabitants 
have  a  tradition  that  they  are  derived  from  New  Zealand,  whence 
their  progenitors  came  about  a  century  since,  having  been  driven  off 
in  their  canoes  by  a  storm,  and  that  on  landing  they  had  changed  their 
language.  The  change  consisted  in  reversing  the  ordinary  construc- 
tion of  their  phrases,  and  the  syllables  of  words,  as,  for  Hare-mai, 
Mai-hare;  and  for  Paika,  Ka-pai.  The  natives  of  Chatham  Island 
are  not  tattooed,  do  not  wear  clothing,  and  are  said  to  be  more  intelli- 
gent than  their  progenitors.  They  were  conquered  a  few  years  ago 
by  a  party  of  New  Zealanders  from  Port  Nicholson,  who  had  been 
driven  out  by  the  Kapiti  tribes,  under  the  celebrated  Rauparaka. 

An  examination  of  the  charts  of  the  Bay  of  Islands  was  made,  and 
some  additional  soundings  added  ;  the  meridian  distance,  measured  by 
our  chronometers  from  Sydney,  gave  the  longitude  of  the  point  oppo- 
site Mr.  Clendon's  wharf,  174°  07'  E. ;  its  latitude  was  found  to  be  35° 
17'  S.  The  dip  and  intensity  observations  were  also  made  here,  and 
will  be  found  registered  with  those  results  in  the  volume  on  Physics. 

Mr.  Couthouy,  who  was  left  sick  at  Sydney,  took  passage  in  a  vessel 
to  Tahiti,  and  passed  through  Cook's  Straits,  touching  at  several  of  its 
anchorages.  To  his  observations  I  am  indebted  for  the  following 
information  relative  to  the  southern  part  of  these  islands. 

The  first  point  they  made  was  the  Sugar  Loaf  Islands  and  Mount 
Egmont.  The  charts  published  by  Clintz  at  Sydney,  give  also  the 
height  of  this  mountain  as  fourteen  thousand  feet,  but  this  was  believed 


NEW    ZEALAND.  405 

to  be  erroneous,*  for  only  a  small  portion  of  the  top  was  covered  with 
snow.  The  day  previous  to  their  making  land,  they  had  been  set  to 
the  northward  by  current  about  twenty  miles  in  fourteen  hours. 

They  next  passed  through  Cook's  Straits  to  Port  Cooper,  on  the 
north  side  of  Banks'  Peninsula,  where  they  anchored.  This  harbour 
is  sheltered,  except  from  the  northerly  winds,  and  is  much  frequented 
by  whalers,  who  resort  thither  to  try  out  the  whale-blubber.  The 
beach  is  in  consequence  strewn  with  the  bones  of  these  monsters.  On 
going  on  shore,  a  party  of  three  natives  and  their  wives  were  found 
in  a  state  of  wretchedness  and  degradation, — their  only  clothing  being 
an  old  blanket,  disgustingly  dirty,  besmeared  with  oil  and  with  a 
reddish  earth  which  had  been  rubbed  from  their  bodies,  and  a  coarse 
mat  of  New  Zealand  flax ;  they  depended  for  subsistence  on  a  small 
potato-patch,  and  smoked  fish ;  they  lived  in  low  huts  formed  of 
stakes,  covered  with  mats,  and  thatched  with  grass  in  the  rudest 
manner :  their  condition  was  but  little  better  than  that  of  the  Fuegians. 
A  fellow-passenger,  who  had  seen  the  oldest  man  left  of  the  tribe, 
stated  that  these  wrere  the  remnants  of  a  tribe  that,  but  a  dozen  years 
before,  could  muster  six  hundred  fighting  men ;  they  were  all  cut  ofF, 
about  ten  years  since,  by  the  noted  chief  Robolua,  residing  near  Cook's 
Straits.  The  old  man  appeared  deeply  affected  whilst  dwelling  on 
the  history  of  his  people.  The  cupidity  of  the  whites  in  this  case,  as 
in  many  others,  had  brought  about,  or  was  the  cause  of,  this  deadly 
attack;  the  particulars  were  as  follow. 

The  master  of  an  English  vessel,  by  the  name  of  Stewart,  (the  same 
person  from  whom  the  small  southern  island  takes  its  name,)  was 
trading  along  the  northern  island,  and  fell  in  with  the  chief,  Robolua, 
who  was  then  meditating  an  excursion  to  the  south.  Feeling  con- 
fident that  if  he  could  come  upon  his  enemies  unawares  their  defeat 
was  certain,  he  offered  Stewart  to  load  his  vessel  with  flax,  if  he 
would  transport  him  and  his  warriors  to  the  place  he  wished  to  attack. 
The  contract  was  readily  entered  into  by  Stewart,  and  the  warriors 
were  taken  on  board,  and  landed  on  various  parts  of  the  coast,  where 
the  inhabitants,  taken  by  surprise,  were  butchered  without  mercy. 
Not  less  than  fifteen  hundred  persons  were  cut  ofF  at  this  and  the 
adjoining  harbour  of  Port  Levy,  or  Kickurarapa.  This  Stewart  is 
said  to  be  still  living  on  the  northern  island  of  New  Zealand. 

Many  specimens  of  shells  were  obtained  here,  and  a  few  presents, 
consisting  of  pipes  and  tobacco,  were  made  to  the  remnant  of  this 
once  powerful  tribe.  Two  of  their  fellow-passengers  intended  to  land 

*  I  have  seen  other  authorities,  which  give  its  height  at  eight  thousand  feet. 


406  NEW    ZEALAND. 

here  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  themselves,  but  the  place  offered 
so  little  inducement  that  they  determined  to  proceed  to  Port  Levy,  a 
larger  harbour  to  the  eastward,  where  the  natives  informed  them  that 
refreshments  could  be  had  in  plenty.  The  next  day  they  anchored  in 
it,  and  found  it  somewhat  similar  to  Port  Cooper,  but  more  open.  In 
the  afternoon  a  party  went  on  shore,  and  returned  with  sixty-four 
brace  of  pigeons,  and  three  black  parrots.  The  former  were  in  great 
abundance  and  very  large,  some  of  them  weighing  twenty  ounces: 
the  colour  of  their  backs  was  a  dull  slate,  passing  into  bronze  on  the 
neck  and  wings;  the  head  was  very  black,  the  breast  white,  deepening 
into  a  reddish  brown  on  the  belly ;  the  bill  and  feet  of  a  bright  red. 
The  parrots  were  quite  black,  about  the  size  of  a  crow,  and  remarkable 
for  two  rose-coloured  wattles  at  the  lower  mandible,  like  the  common 
fowl.  They  also  killed  a  species  of  pica,  called  cuga  by  the  natives, 
about  the  size  of  a  blackbird ;  it  was  of  a  dull  black,  with  greenish 
reflections  on  the  back,  and  on  each  side  of  the  neck  was  a  single 
white  feather,  which  curled  forward  and  upward. 

Here  they  became  acquainted  with  Charley,  or  Karakiharuru,  the 
chief  proprietor  of  Port  Cooper,  Port  Levy,  and  Pigeon  Bay.  Not- 
withstanding these  extensive  possessions,  neither  himself  nor  his  fol- 
lowers were  better  clad,  housed,  or  superior  in  any  respect  to  those 
already  described.  As  for  Charley  himself,  he  appeared  in  a  striped 
shirt,  pea-jacket,  and  trousers,  the  cast-off  clothing  of  some  sailor. 
From  having  made  the  voyage  to  Sydney,  Charley  fancied  he  had 
seen  the  world,  and  took  great  pains  to  show  his  knowledge  and 
excite  the  admiration  of  those  about  him.  The  captain  of  the  vessel 
obtained  from  him  about  twenty  bushels  of  potatoes,  at  the  rate  of  a 
pound  of  tobacco  for  a  basket  containing  about  a  peck ;  he  besides 
offered  to  sell  one-third  of  his  dominions  or  estate  for  a  new  whale- 
boat.  Charley  had  on  the  usual  heitiki  or  neck  ornament.  The  only 
account  he  could  give  of  the  locality  of  this  green  stone  was,  that  it 
was  found  to  the  southward,  in  a  large  bed  between  two  mountains. 
Among  other  things  in  Charley's  possession,  was  an  enormous  wax 
doll,  dressed  in  the  height  of  the  Parisian  fashion,  which  had  been 
presented  to  him  by  the  officers  of  a  French  expedition  that  had 
touched  there,  some  time  previously, — rather  a  droll  occupant  of  a 
dirty  New  Zealand  hut. 

About  Port  Levy  the  land  rises  nearly  twelve  hundred  feet  high: 
the  soil  is  every  where  exceedingly  rich,  but  its  value  for  agricultural 
purposes  is  diminished  by  its  steepness ;  it  would  be  impracticable  to 
use  cattle  in  ploughing.  The  land  in  all  parts  of  the  peninsula 
exhibited  the  same  character :  a  succession  of  steep  hills,  intersected 


NEW    ZEALAND.  497 

by  deep  and  narrow  ravines,  clothed  with  a  thick  forest,  except  where 
they  terminate  on  the  coast,  and  form  a  tolerably  level  spot  of  a  few 
acres  in  extent,  available  for  cultivation.  The  forest  consisted  of  an 
abundance  of  fine  timber,  principally  the  Kaurie  pine,  from  one 
hundred  and  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  height,  and 
seven  to  eight  feet  in  diameter.  The  fern  was  thick  in  patches,  but 
in  no  great  variety;  some  scandent  and  parasitic  plants  were  met  with, 
and  a  great  number  of  flourishing  ones  observed ;  but  Mr.  Couthouy 
having  no  means  for  the  purpose,  was  not  enabled  to  secure  any  speci- 
mens. He  remarked  that  the  vegetation  appeared  much  more  luxu- 
riant and  diversified  than  that  of  any  country  he  had  seen  since 
leaving  Brazil.  The  soil  is  a  rich  black  loam,  composed  of  vegetable 
mould  and  decomposed  basalt;  the  structure  of  the  rocks  decidedly 
columnar,  exposing  at  the  summit  of  the  hills  large  masses  of  compact 
dark  gray  basalt,  containing  numerous  crystals  of  olivine,  pyroxine, 
and  other  volcanic  minerals.  At  the  base  of  the  hill,  the  rock  was 
frequently  a  coarse  cellular  lava,  and  the  beach  was  covered  with 
boulders  of  all  these  varieties. 

They  next  stopped  at  Pigeon  Bay,  but  remained  there  only  a  few 
hours;  the  passengers  who  were  in  search  of  a  position  to  establish 
themselves,  found  this  quite  as  unfavourable  as  either  of  the  two  pre- 
vious places. 

In  passing  to  the  northward,  towards  Cape  Campbell,  the  coast  is 
high  and  broken,  with  no  level  land  in  the  vicinity  of  the  sea  ;  but 
notwithstanding  its  abruptness,  they  found  only  fourteen  fathoms  of 
water  at  a  distance  of  four  miles  from  the  shore,  with  sandy  bottom. 
They  had  a  fine  view  of  the  snowy  peaks,  called  the  "  Lookers  On," 
about  twenty  miles  to  the  southward.  These  are  supposed  to  be 
nearly  as  high  as  Mount  Egmont,  and  tower  up  in  sharp  peaks, 
covered  with  snow  for  fifteen  hundred  feet  from  the  summit.  The 
land  along  this  part  of  the  coast  is  very  rugged,  is  apparently  un- 
suited  for  any  kind  of  cultivation,  and  has  no  harbours.  Off  Cape 
Campbell,  a  line  of  rocks  was  seen  extending  to  the  eastward  about  a 
league,  which  do  not  appear  on  the  charts ;  they  are  partly  above  and 
partly  below  water. 

They  then  anchored  in  Cloudy  Bay,  which,  contrary  to  the  repre- 
sentation of  the  charts,  proved  a  good  anchorage.  The  wind  here 
sweeps  down  the  gullies  in  strong  squalls,  but  the  water  is  at  all  times 
smooth.  There  are  five  whaling  establishments  in  Cloudy  Bay,  each 
employing  from  twenty  to  thirty  hands,  chiefly  New  Zealanders. 
The  kind  of  whale  taken  here  is  principally  the  right  whale,  and  the 
quantity  of  oil  collected  the  previous  year  was  four  thousand  five 


408  NEW    ZEALAND. 

hundred  barrels,  which  was  sold  on  the  spot  to  Sydney  dealers,  at 
forty  pounds  the  tun.  Tn  addition  to  this  quantity,  five  thousand  five 
hundred  barrels  were  taken  in  the  bay,  by  whale-ships,  principally 
Americans,  from  which  some  idea  of  its  value  to  our  countrymen  may 
be  formed.  The  establishments  on  shore  have  connected  with  them 
stores  for  supplying  ships,  where  articles  may  be  had  at  one  hundred 
per  cent,  advance  on  the  Sydney  prices ;  potatoes  are  sold  at  thirty 
dollars  the  ton,  and  pork  at  twelve  and  a  half  cents  per  pound ;  boards 
and  plank  may  also  be  obtained  at  fifty  dollars  per  thousand;  wood 
and  water  are  purchased  of  the  natives  for  muskets,  powder  and  ball, 
blankets,  pipes,  and  tobacco.  It  is  also  customary  to  make  a  present 
of  two  muskets,  or  an  equivalent,  to  Robolua,  the  chief,  for  harbour 
dues.  A  Mr.  Williams,  who  was  one  of  the  establishment,  furnished 
the  above  information. 

Two  American  whalers  were  found  here.  A  number  of  chiefs 
came  off  to  the  vessel,  in  the  course  of  the  day;  they  were  fierce- 
looking  savages,  with  coarse  matted  hair,  tattooed  visages,  and  bodies 
besmeared  with  red  earth  and  oil ;  some  of  them  were  clad  in  coarse 
mats,  others  in  blankets,  and  all  exceedingly  filthy ;  most  of  them  had 
the  heitiki  ornament  about  their  necks,  and  some  in  their  ears,  which 
were  also  decorated  with  red  and  white  feathers,  and  the  holes  pierced 
in  them  were  also  made  the  receptacle  of  their  pipes;  others  had 
necklaces  of  human  bones,  polished, — trophies  of  the  enemies  they 
had  slain. 

Their  manners  were  uncouth,  exhibiting  none  of  that  amenity  so 
remarkable  in  the  natives  of  the  other  Polynesian  groups ;  yet  there 
was  a  rude  dignity  about  them,  that  evinced  a  consciousness  of  their 
rank  and  consequence.  Three  or  four  women  came  on  board,  but  not 
one  of  them  could  be  called  good-looking,  and  they  appeared  to  care 
less  about  their  appearance  than  the  men. 

The  noted  Robolua  made  his  appearance  at  the  breakfast-table, 
unannounced  and  uninvited;  he  most  unceremoniously  took  his  seat 
next  the  captain,  remarking,  "  Me,  Robolua  !"  In  person,  he  is  above 
the  middle  stature,  powerfully  built,  and  rather  ill-featured.  The  usual 
expression  of  his  countenance  is  not  bad,  but  when  enraged,  it  is  truly 
fiendish,  and  his  small  deep-sunk  eyes,  which  betoken  cunning,  gleam 
with  the  ferocity  of  a  tiger.  His  head  is  of  enormous  size,  covered 
with  long  matted  hair,  sprinkled  with  gray;  his  eyebrows  were  long 
and  shaggy ;  he  had  a  bad  expression  of  the  mouth,  resulting  from  the 
loss  of  his  teeth,  a  circumstance  of  rare  occurrence  among  these 
natives.  He  seemed  in  feeble  health,  and  his  figure  was  slightly  bent 
by  age;  he  wore  a  filthy  blanket,  and  over  it  an  old-fashioned  plaid 


NEW    ZEALAND.  409 

cloak,  the  colours  of  which,  like  those  of  his  under  garments,  were  no 
longer  distinguishable.  All  the  chiefs  wore  their  dress  so  as  to  cover 
their  left  arm,  and  leave  the  right  bare,  which  Mr.  Williams  said  was 
for  the  purpose  of  concealing  their  meara,  or  stone  cleaver,  which  is 
constantly  suspended  to  the  left  wrist,  ready,  at  a  moment's  warning, 
for  use,  and  which  they  take  particular  care  never  to  expose  to  view. 
With  Robolua  was  his  principal  warrior,  Oranga-dieti,  a  fine  specimen 
of  a  savage  chieftain,  about  fifty  years  of  age,  with  a  noble  though 
fierce  cast  of  countenance,  nearly  six  and  a  half  feet  in  height,  and  as 
straight  as  an  arrow ;  his  long  hair  was  tied  up  behind,  a  la  Grecque, 
the  knot  being  secured  by  two  long  black  feathers  stuck  through  it ; 
altogether  he  had  more  the  appearance  of  a  chief  than  Robolua ;  the 
latter,  from  the  account  Mr.  Williams  gave  of  him,  owes  his  ascen- 
dency more  to  his  powers  of  persuasion  in  council,  and  his  talents  for 
strategy  in  their  system  of  warfare,  than  to  his  warlike  achievements ; 
and  he  seldom  risks  his  person  in  battle.  The  chiefs,  in  their  figurative 
language,  say,  "  The  breath  of  Robolua  can  turn  them  round  and 
round,  and  his  tongue  is  more  powerful  than  any  of  their  weapons." 
He  was  originally  a  petty  rangatira  (landholder).  Of  late  years  his 
power  had  very  much  declined :  five  or  six  years  ago  he  could  number 
more  than  six  thousand  warriors,  but  now  he  has  not  over  four  hun- 
dred. His  rapid  rise  is  imputed  to  the  introduction  of  fire-arms,  for 
he  was  long  the  only  chief  who  possessed  any  number  of  them ;  and 
the  decay  of  his  power  is  attributed  to  the  acquisition  of  this  weapon 
by  others,  and  the  inactivity  arising  from  his  advancing  age.  Several 
of  the  natives  who  were  met  here  could  read,  and  a  portion  of  the 
Testament  was  seen  in  their  possession;  two  women  in  particular 
were  desirous  of  showing  their  accomplishments,  and  remarked  that 
the  missionary  religion  was  not  made  for  New  Zealanders ;  it  was  too 
good  for  them.  Drunkenness  and  dishonesty  prevail,  by  their  own 
confession,  among  the  white  men,  who  are  at  times  entirely  beyond 
the  control  of  their  masters ;  they  all  have  native  wives,  who  are  taken 
and  discarded  at  pleasure. 

The  whalers  stated  that  the  prevailing  winds  at  Cloudy  Bay  in 
summer  and  the  beginning  of  autumn,  from  November  to  March,  are 
from  the  southeast  and  northwest,  which  usually  succeed  each  other  at 
short  intervals ;  during  the  rest  of  the  year,  winds  from  south  round  to 
west  are  more  frequent,  and  bring  with  them  wet  weather. 

The  general  information  which  we  obtained,  and  which  has  not 
been  included  in  the  preceding  portions  of  the  chapter,  is  as  follows : 

The  climate  of  New  Zealand  is  extremely  changeable ;  but  although 
it  may  be  considered  as  the  cause  of  many  diseases  among  the  natives, 

VOL.  ii.  52 


•HO  NEWZEALAND. 

it  is,  perhaps,  the  best  suited  to  a  European  constitution  of  any  in  the 
South  Seas.  A  large  quantity  of  rain  falls  during  the  year,  but  I  was 
unable  to  obtain  any  record  of  its  exact  amount.  The  temperature  at 
Kororarika,  during  the  months  of  February  and  March,  varied  from 
53°  to  78°,  and  the  mean  was  64-2°.  In  the  sun  the  thermometer  rose 
as  high  as  110°.  The  principal  prevailing  winds  are  from  the  south- 
east and  west ;  the  former  are  frequently  in  squalls,  and  attended  with 
rain  :  May  and  June  are  the  rainy  months. 

Warm  days  are  often  succeeded  by  cold  nights,  which  give  rise 
to  pectoral  diseases  among  the  natives,  many  of  whom  are  affected  by 
phthisis,  or  swept  off  by  rapid  consumptions.  They  are  also  liable  to 
rheumatism  and  pleurisy.  European  and  American  residents,  who 
enjoy  better  food  and  clothing,  and  inhabit  more  comfortable  dwellings, 
are  exempt  from  these  complaints.  Measles,  hooping-cough,  and  other 
epidemics,  have  been  introduced  from  foreign  vessels.  While  we  lay 
at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  the  influenza  prevailed  on  shore  and  was  com- 
municated to  our  crew.  The  venereal  disease,  propagated  by  their 
licentious  habits  of  life,  and  unchecked  by  medicine,  is  rapidly  reducing 
the  numbers  of  the  natives. 

The  greater  part  of  the  soil  of  the  portion  of  New  Zealand  which 
fell  under  our  observation  is  too  sterile  to  be  profitably  employed  in 
agriculture.  It  consists,  in  general,  of  an  obdurate  yellow  loam, 
capable  of  bearing  little  else,  after  it  is  cleared  of  trees  and  brush- 
wood, than  the  fern  (Pteris  esculenta).  Where  the  soil  is  volcanic, 
however,  it  is  comparatively  fertile  ;  but  this  description  of  ground  is 
rare. 

Wheat  and  other  grains  are  raised,  and  the  fruits  and  vegetables  of 
temperate  climates  succeed  well.  The  hills  are  almost  bare  of  vege- 
tation ;  for  after  the  ground  is  cleared,  the  heavy  falls  of  rain  sweep 
the  soil  from  them  into  the  valleys,  and  wear  the  hill-sides  into  gullies. 
In  this  manner  patches  of  good  land  are  formed  in  them,  which, 
however,  rarely  exceed  fifteen  or  twenty  acres  in  extent.  The  only 
continuous  level  tract  of  as  much  as  a  hundred  acres,  is  on  the  farm 
of  Mr.  Clendon  on  Manawa  Bay.  The  sterility  of  the  soil  is  not  the 
only  obstacle  the  agriculturist  has  to  contend  with.  The  fern,  of 
which  we  have  spoken,  springs  up  the  moment  the  forest  is  removed, 
and  covers  the  land  with  a  dense  vegetation.  Ploughing  is  not  suffi- 
cient to  extirpate  it,  for  it  will  spring  again  from  the  severed  roots,  and 
choke  the  grain.  It  can  only  be  completely  eradicated  by  removing  it 
by  hand  and  burning  it.  The  ashes  are  then  spread  upon  the  ground, 
and  are  found  to  be  a  good  manure.  In  this  manner  the  sons  of  Mr. 
Williams  the  missionary  at  Pahia,  arc  endeavouring  to  bring  a  farm 


NEW    ZEAL  AND.  411 

they  possess  mto  cultivation.  Natives  are  employed  in  the  labour,  and 
they  have  in  this  way  cleared  several  acres. 

The  fern,  from  its  size  and  strength,  is  supposed  to  indicate  a  fertile 
soil ;  but  this  is  not  the  fact,  for  I  have  seen  nearly  a  thousand  acres 
in  a  body  covered  with  a  growth  of  it  six  feet  in  height,  where  the 
ground  was  deemed  fit  for  no  purpose  but  to  furnish  brick-clay.  So 
densely  do  the  ferns  grow,  that  it  is  impossible  to  force  a  way  through 
them,  and  the  only  mode  of  traversing  the  country  where  they  abound, 
is  by  following  the  native  paths ;  these  pursue  the  high  ground  and 
ridges,  and  have  branches  which  lead  to  the  neighbouring  cultivated 
spots.  The  moment  the  culture  of  the  land  is  neglected,  the  fern  again 
makes  its  appearance. 

The  clayey  soils  afford  only  a  scanty  growth  of  grass,  which  is 
scarcely  fit  for  pasture,  and  indeed  there  appear  to  be  no  native  grasses. 
In  the  more  fertile  soils,  red  clover,  according  to  Mr.  Brackenridge, 
does  well ;  and  he  believes  that  white  clover  would  succeed  on  the  hills, 
which  are  now  bare.  The  climate  is  favourable  to  the  growth  of  the 
foreign  grasses. 

After  the  fern  has  been  burnt  and  the  ashes  spread,  a  crop  of  wheat 
is  raised,  and  the  land  is  laid  down  in  grass.  To  give  an  idea  of  the 
produce  of  land  near  the  Bay  of  Islands,  we  may  cite  the  instance  of 
Captain  Wright's  farm,  which  is  eligibly  situated,  and  is  considered  as 
possessing  a  fertile  soil.  He  had  twenty  acres  in  wheat,  whose  average 
product  was  only  fourteen  bushels  per  acre. 

Among  the  foreign  fruits  which  have  been  introduced,  are  apples, 
peaches,  and  grapes.  The  latter  grow  best  in  the  volcanic  soils,  but 
the  climate  is  considered  to  be  too  moist  to  permit  them  to  attain  per- 
fection. The  peaches  are  fine,  but  the  propensity  of  the  natives  to 
pluck  them  before  they  are  ripe,  prevents  them  from  attaining  their  full 
flavour.  Cape  gooseberries  are  plentiful,  but  the  common  description 
of  that  fruit,  and  the  currant,  have  not  been  introduced.  Late  writers 
have  given  marvellous  accounts  of  the  growth  of  the  fruit  trees  of 
temperate  climates,  in  New  Zealand ;  but  these  may  be  set  down  as 
exaggerations  calculated  to  mislead,  and  intended  to  subserve  specu- 
lation. The  success  of  Captain  Wright,  however,  in  raising  fruit  and 
vegetables,  has  been  great. 

Among  the  native  vegetables  is  the  sweet-potato,  which  they  call 
kumara  :  it  is  plentiful. 

The  missionaries  stated  that  the  natives  have  a  remarkable  tradition 
in  relation  to  this  root ;  namely,  that  it  was  first  brought  to  the  island 
in  canoes  of  a  different  construction  from  their  own,  and  composed  of 
pieces  of  wood  sewed  together. 


412  NEW   ZEALAND. 

Cook  left  the  common  potato,  which  has  been  cultivated  ever  since 
his  visit,  and  is  now  plentiful. 

The  native  hemp  (Phormium  tenax)  is  a  most  useful  plant ;  it  grows 
in  large  quantities,  and  is  applied  by  them  to  many  purposes,  besides 
being  a  principal  article  of  foreign  trade.  It  is  an  important  material 
in  the  construction  of  their  houses,  for  which  purpose  it  is  made  into 
cords,  that  are  also  employed  for  other  more  common  uses.  It  is 
manufactured  into  fine  fishing-lines,  which  are  much  prized  at  Sydney 
for  their  strength  and  beauty. 

The  manufacture  of  the  hemp  is  altogether  performed  by  the  women, 
who  cut  it,  and  after  it  has  been  dried  a  little,  divide  it  into  strips  of 
about  an  inch  in  width.  The  outer  green  fibres  are  then  scraped  off 
with  a  piece  of  glass,  or  a  sharp  shell.  The  inner  fibres  being  thus 
exposed  are  easily  separated,  and  the  greatest  care  is  taken  to  keep  all 
the  fibres  as  straight  as  possible,  both  in  this  and  the  following  ope- 
rations. To  this  precaution  the  great  strength  of  the  cordage  the 
natives  make  of  it,  is  owing.  After  the  fibres  are  separated,  they  are 
washed,  rubbed,  and  laid  in  the  sun  to  bleach. 

The  vegetation  of  New  Zealand  is  of  a  fresher  and  deeper  green 
than  that  of  New  Holland,  and  has  some  resemblance  to  that  of 
Terra  del  Fuego.  According  to  the  missionaries,  the  ridges,  and 
indeed  the  greater  part  of  the  northern  island,  are  destitute  of  trees ; 
and  the  woods,  which  are  confined  to  the  valleys,  are  for  the  most  part 
in  detached  spots.  The  western  part  of  this  island  contains  more 
actual  forests  than  the  eastern. 

It  was  remarked  by  our  botanists  that  trees  of  genera  which  in 
other  countries  grow  in  the  more  barren  soils,  are  found  in  New 
Zealand  in  those  which  are  fertile.  This  is  in  particular  the  case 
with  the  pine  tribe.  It  also  appeared  to  them,  from  the  position  of 
isolated  trees,  and  the  quantity  of  Kaurie-gum  found  embedded  in  the 
soil,  that  forests  had  formerly  been  more  generally  spread  over  the  face 
of  the  country,  than  they  are  at  present. 

The  gum  which  has  just  been  spoken  of,  is  still  produced  by  the 
Kaurie  pine,  which  is  the  finest  of  the  timber-trees  of  New  Zealand. 
The  greatest  portion  of  that  which  is  shipped  from  the  island,  is  dug 
from  the  ground.  Small  quantities  of  the  latter  description  have 
been  purchased  by  our  countrymen,  and  shipped  to  the  United  States, 
where  it  was  manufactured  into  a  varnish.  This  was  of  a  good  quality, 
and  was  afterwards  sent  to  New  South  Wales,  and  New  Zealand, 
where  it  is  sold  for  copal  varnish. 

The  Kaurie  and  Kaikotia  pines  yield  spars  which  for  large  ships 
are  not  surpassed  by  any  in  the  world.  The  trees  are  generally 


NEW    ZEALAND.  413 

large,  and  are  easily  brought  to  the  coast  by  means  of  the  numerous 
streams. 

The  natives  use  these  trees  in  building  their  canoes,  which  are  dug 
out  of  a  single  log.  They  have  no  out-rigger,  and  are  in  consequence 
liable  to  accident  from  want  of  stability.  Great  ingenuity  is  shown  in 
repairing  them.  We  saw  a  war-canoe  which  was  sufficiently  large 
to  be  manned  by  fifty  men ;  it  had  a  prow  extended  ten  feet  upwards, 
which  was  elaborately  carved  and  decked  with  tufts  of  feathers.  The 
paddles  have  spoon-shaped  blades,  by  which  the  canoes  are  propelled 
with  great  swiftness. 

No  native  quadrupeds  were  found  wild  in  New  Zealand.  Cattle 
have  been  introduced,  and  thrive.  Those  which  are  imported  require 
to  be  fed,  but  those  raised  in  the  country  can  provide  for  themselves, 
and  grow  fat  by  browsing. 

Among  the  birds,  are  the  native  nightingale  and  the  tui,  also  known 
under  the  sobriquet  of  the  parson-bird.  The  latter  is  a  great  favourite 
with  the  natives. 

I  saw  it  only  in  a  cage,  and  its  note  did  not  strike  me  as  pleasing, 
but  several  of  our  gentlemen  saw  and  heard  it  in  the  woods ;  they 
describe  its  note  as  rather  louder  than  that  of  the  bird  called  by  the 
Samoans  "poe,"  and  it  is  at  times  said  to  utter  a  cry  resembling  the 
sound  of  a  trumpet. 

The  domestic  fowl  does  not  appear  to  have  been  known  before  this 
island  was  visited  by  white  men. 

I  made  inquiries  in  relation  to  the  mode  in  which  birds  were  taken 
in  this  country  before  the  introduction  of  fire-arms,  but  could  not  obtain 
any  satisfactory  information.  I  was  inclined  to  think  that  the  natives 
had  no  method  of  doing  this  in  former  times. 

The  great  staple  articles  of  trade  are  flax,  spars,  and  wheat;  pota- 
toes and  gum  are  also  exported ;  but  the  whale-fishery  is  of  more  value 
at  present  to  foreigners  than  all  the  productions  of  the  soil.  This  is 
carried  on  from  the  shores  by  parties  of  New  Zealanders  and  foreigners ; 
but  they  are  rapidly  destroying  this  source  of  wealth,  for,  as  has  been 
stated,  their  eagerness  for  present  gain  leads  them  to  destroy  the  ani- 
mals whether  old  or  young,  without  discrimination. 

The  whaling  establishments  of  British  subjects  on  the  coast  are 
numerous,  and  the  most  disgraceful  acts  are  perpetrated  by  their  occu- 
pants and  by  the  crews  of  the  whale-ships,  who  not  only  use  violence 
against  the  natives,  but  against  each  other.  As  New  Zealand  is  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  whaling-ground,  it  is  a  desirable  rendezvous 
for  our  whalers ;  and  the  American  whaling  fleet,  actively  employed 
on  the  coast  in  the  spring  of  1840,  amounted  to  one  hundred  sail. 


414 


NEW    ZEALAND. 


Many  spars  are  now  exported  to  England,  where,  however,  the 
smaller  sticks  are  not  as  much  esteemed  in  proportion  as  the  larger 
ones.  Several  government  vessels  have  recently  obtained  spars  for  the 
Royal  Navy  at  the  trifling  cost  of  a  few  blankets  and  muskets.  The 
latter,  in  particular,  are  a  great  inducement  to  the  chiefs,  who  are 
willing  to  devote  much  labour  for  the  purpose  of  acquiring  the  means 
of  rendering  themselves  powerful.  Besides  guns  and  blankets,  gun- 
powder, lead,  coarse  blue  and  white  cottons,  whiskey,  rice,  sugar,  and 
molasses  are  the  articles  most  in  request.  These  now  bring  enormous 
prices,  in  consequence  of  the  demand  caused  by  the  number  of  immi- 
grants ;  but  the  effect  of  these  prices  is  to  render  labour  proportionably 
dear. 


NEW  ZEALAND  IHU  AND  WEAPONS. 


APPENDIX. 


CONTENTS. 


I.    REGULATIONS  RESPECTING  TRADE  WITH  NATIVES 419 

II.    ORDERS  FOR  LIEUTENANT  EMMONS'S  PARTY 4-20 

III.  ORDERS  TO  LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT  RINGGOLD 421 

IV.  LETTER  TO  Q.UEEN  POMARE 422 

V.    ORDERS  TO  LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT  RINGGOLD 424 

VI.     ORDERS  TO  CAPTAIN  HUDSON  AND  LIEUTENANT  PINKNEY 424 

VII.    ABSTRACT  OF  DIARY  KEPT  AT  PAGO  PAGO  HARBOUR  426 

VIII.    EXTRACT  OF  A  LETTER  RELATIVE  TO  REMARKABLE  FLOW  OF  THE  SEA. .  427 

IX.    COMMERCIAL  RULES  AND  REGULATIONS  OF  SAMOAN  GROUP 428 

X.    TABLES  OF  NUMBER  OF  PERSONS  COMMITTED  FOR  TRIAL  IN  NEW  SOUTH 

WALES 431 

XL    ORDERS  TO  THE  NATURALISTS,  ETC.,  ETC 433 

XII.    RETURN  OF  SCHOOLS,  ETC. - 436 

XIII.  CENSUS  OF  1841,  AND  RETURN  OF  IMMIGRANTS  AND  CONVICTS  ARRIVED-.  438 

XIV.  TABLE  OF  RETURN  OF  BANKS,  ETC.,  ETC 442 

XV.    TABLE  OF  RETURN  OF  VALUE  OF  EXPORTS 443 

XVI.    TABLE  OF  RETURN  OF  VESSELS  BUILT  AND  REGISTERED  IN  THE  COLONY, 

AND  LIVE-STOCK 444 

XVII.    TABLE  OF  RETURN  OF  TONNAGE  OF  VESSELS  ARRIVING  AND  DEPARTING  445 

XVIII.    TABLE  OF  RETURN  OF  WOOL  AND  DUTIES,  ETC.,  ETC 447 

XIX.    TABLE  OF  RETURN  OF  SALE  OF  CROWN-LANDS 443 

XX.    TABLE  OF  ESTIMATED  O.UANTITY  OF  LAND  IN  CULTIVATION 448 

XXI.    REPORT  OF  STATE  OF  PEACOCK 449 

XXII.    TABLE  OF  RETURNS  OF  TIMBER  AND  FISHERIES 450 

VOL.  II.  53  (417) 


418  CONTENTS. 

XXIII.  STATEMENT  OF  INTRODUCTION  OF  SHEEP  IN  NEW  SOUTH  WALES 451 

XXIV.  LETTER  TO  CAPTAIN  JAMES  ROSS,  OF  H.  B.  M.  SHIP  EREBUS 453 

XXV.    INSTRUCTIONS  TO  VESSELS  FOR  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE 457 

XXVI.    BAROMETRICAL  OBSERVATIONS  DURING  GALES 459 

XXVII.    LETTERS  FROM  OFFICERS  RELATIVE  TO  SITUATION  OF  SHIP 460 

XXVIII.    REGISTER  OF  BAROMETER  AND  THERMOMETER  ON  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE..  464 
XXIX.    REPORT  OF  CAPTAIN  HUDSON  OF  THE  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE  OF  PEACOCK..  464 
XXX.    REPORT    OF    LIEUTENANT -COMMAND  ANT    RINGGOLD    OF  PORPOISE,    ON 

ANTARCTIC  CRUISE 469 

XXXI.    QUEEN   VICTORIA    AND   CAPTAIN    HOBSON'S    PROCLAMATION    TO    NEW 

ZEALAND  CHIEFS 473 


APPENDIX. 


REGULATIONS  RESPECTING  THE  TRADE,  ETC.,  WITH  THE  NATIVES  OP  THE 
ISLANDS  THAT  MAY  BE  VISITED  BY  THE  VESSELS  OF  THE  EXPLORING 
SQUADRON. 

1st.  The  purser  on  board  each  vessel  appointed  to  take  charge  of 
the  articles  on  board,  intended  to  be  exchanged  for  fresh  provisions 
and  vegetables  for  the  crew,  and  for  shells,  specimens,  &c.,  will  regu- 
late the  rates  of  exchange,  under  the  direction  of  the  commander  of 
the  vessel,  in  such  a  manner  that  they  may  be  the  same  on  board  all 
the  vessels. 

2d.  No  one  on  board,  except  the  trade-master  and  his  assistants, 
will  be  permitted  to  hold  any  trade  or  barter  with  any  natives  on 
board  or  alongside  the  different  vessels  of  the  squadron. 

3d.  Any  one  wishing  to  obtain  articles  not  wanted  for  the  Ex- 
pedition, will  procure  them  through  the  trade-master,  under  such 
directions  as  may  be  given  by  the  respective  commanders. 

4th.  No  natives  whatever,  either  male  or  female,  will  be  allowed  on 
board  any  of  the  vessels  (except  hostages  or  interpreters)  before  seven 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  or  after  half  an  hour  before  sunset,  and  none 
will  be  allowed  on  board  during  the  day,  except  when  the  white  flag 
remains  at  the  mizzen,  or  at  any  time  when  they  may  interfere  with 
the  duties  of  the  ship. 

(Signed)         CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Tahiti,  September  10th,  1839. 

(419) 


420  APPENDIX. 

ORDERS  RELATIVE  TO  THE  WATCHES,  ETC.,  ON  BOARD  THE  VESSELS  OF 
THE  EXPLORING  SQUADftON. 

THE  following  alterations  are  made  in  the  General  Rules  and  Regu- 
lations of  the  Squadron,  and  will  be  obeyed  and  respected  accordingly: 

1st.  The  thirty-second  article  of  the  General  Rules  and  Regulations 
•will  be  stricken  out,  and  the  following  article  be  inserted  in  lieu 
thereof,  as — 

Article  32d.  The  first-lieutenant  may  grant  leave  of  absence  to 
those  officers  whose  services  may  not  be  required  during  the  day, 
until  sunset.  All  officers  will  return  on  board  their  respective  vessels 
by  sunset.  Boats  will  be  in  waiting  agreeably  to  the  arrangements 
made  by  the  first-lieutenant. 

2d.  The  forty-third  article  of  the  Rules  and  Regulations  is  amended 
by  striking  out  the  words  "  and  third"  in  the  first  line. 

3d.  The  "  General  Instructions  to  all  Officers,"  in  the  same  Rules 
and  Regulations,  are  altered  by  striking  out  the  words  "  or  Passed 
Midshipman,"  and  inserting,  "  except  by  special  direction  of  the  com- 
mander of  the  vessel." 

No  division  of  watches  will  take  place,  except  by  permission  of  the 
commanders. 

The  order  of  the  20th  September,  1838,  relative  to  medical  officers, 
is  revoked  ;  they  will  hereafter,  when  in  port,  (unless  ordered  to  attend 
to  special  duty,)  attend  to  the  medical  duties  of  the  vessel  to  which 
they  are  attached,  agreeably  to  the  usages  of  the  service. 

No  boat  will  leave  the  ship  for  the  shore  after  sunset,  unless  by 
order  of  the  commander. 

(Signed)         CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vinccnnes, 

Tahiti,  September  10th,  1839. 


II. 


ORDERS  FOR  LIEUTENANT  EMMONS  AND  DR.  GUILLOU. 

1st.  They  will  compare  the  sympiesometer  of  the  Porpoise  and  of 
this  ship  together,  and  carefully  note  the  difference. 

2d.  Lieutenant  Emmons  will  provide  himself  with  a  pocket  sextant, 
artificial  horizon,  and  pocket  azimuth  compass,  note-book,  &c. 

3d.  Dr.  Guillou  will  provide  himself  with  two  thermometers  and  an 
hygrometer. 


APPENDIX.  421 

4th.  The  observations  required  to  be  made  with  the  sympiesometer 
half-hourly,  on  ascending  the  heights ;  the  temperature  of  all  springs ; 
the  temperature  of  all  the  different  heights,  in  the  sun  and  shade ; 
morning  and  evening,  at  noon,  9  A.  M.,  9  p.  M.,  3  p.  M,  and  9  A.  M.  ;  their 
watches  will  be  set  to  ship's  time,  in  order  that  the  observations  may 
be  compared. 

5th.  As  many  observations  relative  to  the  topography  of  the  island 
as  may  be  in  their  power ;  the  dimensions  of  the  lake  on  the  moun- 
tains, its  altitude,  and,  if  any  opportunity  offers  of  getting  at  its  depth, 
to  ascertain  that  also. 

6th.  The  meridian  altitude,  or  that  of  double  altitudes  for  latitude. 

7th.  Any  peculiar  or  remarkable  atmospheric  phenomenon,  such  as 
refraction,  &c.,  will  be  sketched,  and  the  time  of  appearance  noted ; 
the  other  observations  will  be  made  at  the  same  time. 

(Signed)         CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincenncs, 

Matavai  Bay,  September  13th. 


III. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Matavai  Bay,  September  19th,  1839. 
SIR,— 

You  will  proceed  with  the  Porpoise  under  your  command,  to  the 
west  end  of  Nairsa,  Dean's,  or  Prince  of  Wales's  Island,  in  longitude 
148°  02'  W.,  and  latitude  15°  05'  30"  S.  You  will  measure  the  dis- 
tance from  this  point  to  Krusenstern's  Island,  both  by  your  log  and 
chronometer  observations. 

You  will  circumnavigate  Krusenstern's  Island,  and  ascertain  the 
latitude  and  longitude  of  its  eastern  and  western  points ;  thence  to  the 
small  island  which  you  saw  before,  carefully  ascertaining  its  distance 
from  Krusenstern's ;  after  which  you  will  proceed  westerly,  to  search 
for  Lazareff  Island,  said  to  be  in  latitude  14°  56'  S.,  longitude  149° 
10'  00"  W.  I  am  disposed  to  believe,  from  our  examinations,  that 
Krusenstern's  Island  may  have  been  taken  for  a  part  of  Dean's  Island  ; 
that  a  passage  of  a  few  miles  may  exist,  dividing  what  we  now  believe 
to  be  Krusenstern's  Island  ;  if  such  exist,  it  is  at  its  western  extremity. 

From  thence  you  will  proceed  along  the  parallel  of  latitude  15°  30' 
S.,  and  keep  a  good  look-out  for  Recreation  and  Fugitive  Islands,  laid 
down  on  Arrowsmith's  Chart,  and  until  you  have  passed  the  longitude 
of  165°  W.  There  is  a  reef  and  island  supposed  to  exist  in  about  161° 
W. ;  this  ground  you  will  well  examine. 


422  APPENDIX. 

Thence  you  will  proceed  to  the  easternmost  of  the  Navigator's 
Group,  the  south  part  of  Manua  being  in  latitude  14°  30'  S.,  longitude 
169°  45'  W.,  which  you  will  examine,  and  remain  off  until  my  arrival, 
or  farther  orders. 

You  may  expect  me  off  them  between  the  1st  and  5th  of  October. 

I  am,  &c., 
(Signed)         CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
LIEUT.  COM.  C.  RINGGOLD, 

U.  S.  Brig  Porpoise. 


IV. 


TO  POMARE  IV.,  QUEEN  OF  THE  SOCIETY  ISLANDS. 

THE  undersigned  has  been  instructed  by  the  President  of  the  United 
States  to  visit  Tahiti  with  the  squadron  under  his  command,  to  inquire 
into  and  make  representations  respecting  certain  occurrences  that  have 
taken  place ;  and  to  assure  you  that  the  President  and  country  place 
full  reliance  upon  the  letter  addressed  by  you  to  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  dated  September  20th,  1839,  a  copy  of  which  is  en- 
closed, in  which  you  invite  all  Americans  to  visit  your  ports,  and  give 
assurances  of  protection  and  friendship;  in  consequence  of  which  the 
President  has  established  a  consulate  at  Papieti,  for  the  purpose  of 
watching  over  an  extensive  commerce  now  carried  on  by  American 
citizens,  which  results  in  advantages  to  both  countries ;  and  farther, 
that  the  President  continues  to  feel  much  good-will  and  interest  toward 
the  government  and  inhabitants  of  these  islands. 

1st.  That  the  President,  feeling  this  strong  reliance  in  the  promises 
contained  in  the  said  letter,  could  not  but  be  astonished  that  the  autho- 
rities had  suffered  an  occurrence  to  take  place  that  might  be  deemed 
an  infringement  of  the  former  consular  premises.  At  the  same  time 
that  he  was  disposed  to  overlook  that  circumstance,  he  desired  that 
some  assurance  should  be  given  that  such  an  occurrence,  so  contrary 
to  the  laws  and  usages  of  nations,  should  not  be  repeated,  and  to  warn 
them,  through  me,  that  it  must  not  occur  again. 

2d.  Relative  to  the  ill  treatment  of  the  crew  of  a  whale-boat  be- 
longing to  an  American  vessel,  in  1836,  and  the  detention  of  the  boat 
at  the  Queen's  boat-house,  and  the  delay  of  bringing  the  offenders  to 
justice.  Such  acts  must  not  occur  again. 

3d.  The  consul  of  the  United  States  will  maintain  and  be  ever  ready 
to  aid  the  authorities  in  the  execution  and  ascendency  of  their  laws, 


APPENDIX.  423 

particularly  as  respects  the  deportment  of  American  seamen;  and 
every  facility  offered  to  other  consuls  should  be  extended  to  him  for 
the  discharge  of  his  duties,  by  assigning  for  his  use  a  portion  of  land 
in  a  suitable  situation  to  enable  him  to  perform  his  duties  advantage- 
ously, particularly  as  you  invited  the  President  to  send  him,  and  re- 
quested that  our  vessels  might  visit  your  ports. 

4th.  Relative  to  the  inefficiency  of  the  laws  in  regard  to  the  appre- 
hension of  deserters  from  the  whale-ships,  and  the  absolute  necessity 
of  providing  a  jail  or  place  for  their  safe-keeping,  until  they  can  be 
sent  on  board ;  also,  for  the  appointment  of  a  proper  police  to  watch 
over  and  secure  any  offenders,  otherwise  it  is  impossible  that  the 
consul  can  carry  into  effect  the  good  intentions  of  the  President,  that 
all  who  violate  the  laws  may  be  punished  and  made  examples  of. 

5th.  It  has  been  represented  that  a  law  formerly  existed  or  still 
exists,  exacting  from  seamen  landing  on  this  island  the  sum  of  thirty 
dollars. 

If  there  is  such  a  law  it  is  extremely  oppressive  to  them,  as  they 
are  under  the  protection  of,  to  be  taken  care  of,  and  sent  away  by  the 
consul  as  soon  as  convenient,  agreeably  to  the  laws  of  the  United 
States.  Any  such  law  should  be  revoked  or  amended.  Seamen  else- 
where are  exempted  from  such  dues,  unless  they  do  not  leave  in  a 
reasonable  time,  or  intend  to  become  residents. 

The  President  and  country  entertain  the  fullest  confidence  that 
justice  will  be  exercised  at  all  times  to  American  citizens,  and  that 
they  will  be  safely  guarded  and  protected  in  their  rights  secured  to 
them  by  treaty  and  assurances  given  them  heretofore. 

The  President  will  order  vessels  of  war  to  visit  these  islands  fre- 
quently, for  the  protection  of  American  citizens  and  commerce,  and  to 
see  that  justice  be  done  to  all. 

The  undersigned  requests  that  this  communication  may  receive  the 
careful  attention  and  consideration  of  the  Queen  and  chiefs,  and  that 
a  written  answer  may  be  returned  to  him  on  his  anchoring  in  the 
harbour  of  Papieti,  where  he  intends  to  proceed  with  the  vessels  under 
his  command  in  a  few  days,  for  the  purpose  of  affording  the  Queen 
and  chiefs  an  opportunity  of  visiting  the  vessels,  and  of  receiving  a 
few  tokens  of  friendship  from  the  President  as  evidences  of  his  con- 
tinued regard. 

All  of  which  is  respectfully  submitted. 

(Signed)         CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding-  Exploring  Expedition. 
U.  S.  Ship  Vinccnnes, 

Matavai  Bay,  Sept.  18th,  1839. 


424  APPENDIX. 

V. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  October  10th,  1839. 
SIR, — 

You  will  proceed  to  the  most  western  island  of  the  Navigator 
Group,  called  Savaii,  passing  on  your  route  to  the  northward  of 
Upolu,  and  leave  an  officer  at  Apia,  to  take  charge  of  and  attend  to 
tide-staves  hourly. 

From  thence  on  your  route  you  will  proceed  to  Manono  and 
Apolima,  ascertaining  the  distance  between  each  of  them  and  Savaii, 
by  the  methods  pointed  out  in  my  surveying  instructions;  you  will 
particularly  examine  Savaii  for  harbours,  and  will  not  allow  any 
thing  to  escape  you  that  will  tend  to  give  facilities  to  commerce  and 
navigation. 

Dr.  Pickering  will  join  the  Porpoise  for  the  purpose  of  procuring 
every  thing  relative  to  its  natural  productions.  You  will  land  him 
at  the  missionary  settlement  at  Savaii,  with  an  officer  to  attend  to  the 
tide-staves  hourly,  until  you  leave  that  island. 

Lieutenant  Alden,  with  a  boat  and  crew  from  this  ship,  will  be  put 
under  your  orders,  for  duty. 

You  will  return  to  the  harbour  of  Pago-pago  as  soon  as  you  shall 
have  finished,  which  will  not  detain  your  arrival  beyond  the  20th  inst. 

If  there  are  any  of  the  crew  of  the  Porpoise  who  are  on  the  sick- 
list,  and  unfit  for  duty,  you  will  send  them,  with  their  bags  and  ham- 
mocks, to  this  ship. 

As  many  specimens,  sketches,  &c.,  as  possible,  will  be  obtained  as 
usual  by  the  officers ;  also  observations,  &c.,  noted. 

The  presents  for  natives  will  be  exchanged  for  specimens,  also  fresh 
provisions,  &c.,  for  the  crew. 

Wishing  you  a  successful  cruise, 

I  am,  &c., 
(Signed)       CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

LIEUT.  COM.  C.  RINGGOLD, 

U.  S.  Brig  Porpoise. 


VI. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Harbour  of  Pago-pago,  October  13th,  1839. 
SIR, — 

You  will,  with  the  Peacock  and  Flying-Fish  under  your  command, 


APPENDIX.  425 

proceed  to  the  next  island  of  this  group,  called  Upolu,  and  enter  the 
harbour  of  Apia,  situated  on  the  northern  side,  and  will  remain  while 
the  Flying-Fish  and  your  boats  are  making  a  survey  of  it,  by  circum- 
navigating it,  and  making  all  possible  observations,  sketches,  &c. 

The  officers  sent  in  the  schooner  and  boats  will  be  careful  to 
examine  and  survey  any  harbour  or  shelter  that  may  be  found, 
making  sketches  of  their  approach,  and  surveys ;  also  observations  to 
determine  their  situation,  &c. 

You  will  also  make  a  careful  survey  of  the  harbour  of  Apia. 
Every  facility  will  be  afforded  to  the  scientific  corps,  for  making 
collections  and  observations  on  shore ;  all  information  possible  will  be 
obtained  from  the  missionaries  and  others,  relative  to  the  island;  as  to 
the  population,  productions,  soil,  number  of  white  missionaries,  &c. 

You  will  remain  at  Apia  until  you  hear  from  me,  or  until  you  have 
completed  the  duties  required,  which  I  deem  five  days  amply  sufficient 
for.  One  of  the  officers  of  the  Porpoise  was  left  to  superintend  tide- 
staves,  which  observations  will  be  continued  by  you  after  that  officer 
leaves. 

I  am  yours,  very  respectfully, 

(Signed)          CHARLES  WILKKS, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
CAPTAIN  WM.  L.  HUDSON, 

Peacock. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vinccnnes, 

Harbour  of  Pago-pago. 
SIR, — 

You  will  receive  on  board  Lieutenant  Perry,  and  Mr.  Colvocoressis, 
of  the  Peacock,  with  their  boats  and  crews,  delivering  your  boats  to 
the  Peacock,  and  then  you  will  carry  into  effect  the  following  instruc- 
tions. 

Proceed  to  the  eastern  point  of  the  island  of  Upolu,  then  commence 
the  survey  of  its  south  side,  particularly  examining  it  for  harbours, 
and  all  places  that  may  afford  any  shelter  for  vessels ;  the  boats  are 
intended  to  operate  with  you,  and  will  trace  the  shore  or  reefs  by 
compass,  and  astronomical  bearings.  You  will  be  very  particular  in 
keeping  your  deck-board  as  ordered  for  surveying  duty.  The  boats 
will  make  sketches  of  all  the  shores,  and  you  will  be  particular  in 
getting  your  observations  for  latitude  and  longitude,  at  the  same  time 
taking  astronomical  bearings,  that  the  point  may  be  determined  there- 
from. If  possible,  you  will  pass  between  Upolu  Island  and  Manono, 
making  your  survey  embrace  the  eastern  shore  of  Manono  Island ; 
but  if  the  passage  proves  dangerous,  you  will  then  go  round  Manono, 

VOL.  n.  54 


426 


APPENDIX. 


between  it  and  Apolima,  and  survey  the  whole  of  Manono  Island 
only.  You  will  then  proceed  to  the  eastward,  along  the  northern 
shore  of  Upolu,  to  the  harbour  of  Apia,  continuing  the  survey  in 
like  manner  up  to  that  harbour ;  here  you  will  again  rejoin  the  Pea- 
cock,— when  Lieutenant  Perry  and  Mr.  Colvocoressis  will  rejoin  the 
Peacock,  and  you  receive  your  boats,  and  remain  under  the  orders  of 
Captain  Hudson  until  further  instructions.  During  the  survey,  you 
will  ascertain  how  far  soundings  exist  from  the  shore.  You  will 
proceed  to  sea  at  daylight. 

I  am,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)         CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
LIEUT.  COM.  R.  F.  PINKNEY, 

Schooner  Flying-Fish. 


VII. 


ABSTRACT    FROM  A  DIARY    KEPT  BY  WILLIAM    FOXALL,  PILOT  OF   THE    HARBOUR 
OF  PAGO-PAGO,  ISLAND  OF  TUTUILA,  SAMOAN  GROUP,   1839. 


MONTHS. 

WINDS. 

CALM 
DAYS. 

CLOUDY 
DAYS. 

RAINY 
DAYS. 

CLEAR 
DAYS. 

Northward 
and 
Eastward. 

Southward 
and 
Eastward. 

Southward 
and 
Westward. 

Norlhwaid 
and 
Westward. 

January     . 

5 

13 

12 

1 

5 

6 

20 

February  . 

3 

12 

13 

4 

12 

13 

March  .     . 

7 

16 

1 

6 

1 

2 

18 

11 

April    .     . 

22 

1 

7 

4 

9 

17 

May      .     . 

1 

19 

1 

6 

4 

8 

18 

5 

June     . 

1 

27 

2 

4 

15 

11 

July      .     . 

3 

22 

5 

1 

1 

12 

18 

August 

25 

1 

5 

9 

7 

15 

September 

8 

19 

3 

4 

4 

22 

October     . 

12 

11 

28 

187 

14 

43 

13 

41 

101 

143 

APPENDIX.  427 

VIII. 

EXTRACT  OF  A  LETTER  FROM  GEO.  BURADER  TO  THE  REV.  W.  MILLS,  RELATING 
TO  A  REMARKABLE  PHENOMENON  OF  THE  TIDES,  AT  THE  HARBOUR  OF  PAGO- 
PAGO,  ISLAND  OF  TUTUILA. 

WEDNESDAY,  November  7th,  1837,  2h  20m  p.  M.  the  tide  rose  suddenly 
to  two  feet  above  high-water  mark,  spring  tide. 

At  2h  30m,  sunk  to  low-water  mark,  neap  tide. 

At  2h  35m,  rose  as  high  as  at  first. 

At  2h  40m,  sunk  to  low-water  mark,  spring  tide;  immediately  rushed 
in  again  with  great  violence,  and  with  such  rapidity,  that  in  two 
minutes  it  was  as  much  as  three  feet  higher  than  it  had  been  before. 
Receded  with  equal  force,  and  at  2h  52m  had  sunk  a  great  deal  below 
low-water  mark. 

At  2h  55m  rose  again  as  high  as  before;  receded  about  eighteen 
inches,  and  suddenly  rushed  in  again  to  the  same  height  as  at  the 
third  time. 

At  3h  3m  it  was  high,  and  at  3b  6^m  it  was  much  lower  than  it  had 
been  before. 

At  3h  12m  it  rose  again  to  the  same  height  as  at  3h  3m;  receded 
suddenly  one  foot,  and  at  3'1  17^m  rose  again  nearly  as  high  as  at  the 
third  time. 

At  3h  20m,  sunk  to  low-water  mark,  spring  tide. 

At  3h  35m,  rose  to  high-water  mark,  spring  tide ;  sunk  to  half  tide, 
and  returned  rapidly. 

At  3h  36m,  was  as  high  as  at  first  and  second  times ;  fell  two  feet. 

At  3h  42m,  nearly  the  same  height  as  at  third  rising;  it  then  sunk 
much  lower  than  at  any  other  time. 

At  3h  50m,  several  feet  below  low-water  mark ;  spring  tide  rushed  in 
again. 

At  3h  54m,  rose  full  two  feet  higher  th'an  at  the  third  time ;  fell 
nearly  as  fast  as  it  rose,  and  with  equal  force. 

At  4b,  was  down  at  high-water  mark,  neap  tide. 

At  4h  15m,  rose  about  half  as  high  as  at  last  time. 

At  4h  20m,  was  down  to  low-water  mark. 

At  4h  32m,  rose  to  same  height  as  at  4h  15™. 

At  4h  40m,  a  heavy  shower  of  rain  fell ;  the  sea  at  this  time  at  low- 
water  mark. 

At  4h  55m,  rose  to  the  same  height  as  at  first  time. 

At  5h  3m,  again  at  low-water  mark. 

Al  5h  8m,  rose  again  about  one  foot  above  high-water  mark,  spring 


428  APPENDIX. 

tide ;  after  which  it  gradually  sunk  to  low-water  mark,  and  during  the 
remainder  of  the  evening  continued  to  ebb  and  flow  less  frequently 
than  during  the  afternoon,  and  not  passing  the  bounds  of  high  and  low 
water. 

During  the  evening  preceding  the  above  remarkable  event,  we  had 
frequent  and  heavy  squalls  from  the  east,  which  continued  till  7  A.  M., 
from  which  time  the  day  was  calm  and  cloudy,  and  frequent  light 
showers,  but  no  heavy  rains  till  the  one  referred  to  above,  at  4h  40m, 
after  which  it  continued  to  rain  more  or  less  till  ten  o'clock. 

On  Thursday,  the  8th,  the  tide  continued  to  ebb  and  flow  in  an  irre- 
gular manner,  both  as  to  time  and  height,  being  sometimes  a  little  below 
low-water  mark,  and  a  little  above  high-water  mark,  and  at  other  times 
ebbing  and  flowing  the  same  as  at  neap  tide,  till  4  p.  M.,  when  it  rose  to 
the  same  height  as  at  the  first  time  the  day  before ;  fell  about  half  tide, 
and  for  a  short  time  appeared  nearly  stationary. 

At  4h  24™,  rose  to  the  same  height  as  at  4h. 

Sunk  a  little  below  high-water  mark,  and  continued  to  ebb  and  flow 
during  the  evening  in  the  same  way  as  during  the  morning.  During 
the  whole  of  Thursday  the  weather  was  very  hot,  and  the  sun  shone 
bright,  without  clouds,  and  with  little  wind. 


IX. 

COMMERCIAL  REGULATIONS,  MADE  BY  THE  PRINCIPAL  CHIEFS  OF  THE  SAMOAN 
GROUP  OF  ISLANDS,  AFTER  FULL  CONSIDERATION  IN  COUNCIL,  ON  THE  5lll 
DAY  OF  NOVEMBER,  1839. 

1st.  ALL  foreign  consuls  duly  appointed  and  received  in  Samoa 
shall  be  protected  and  respected  both  in  their  persons  and  property,  and 
all  foreigners  obtaining  the  consent  of  the  government  and  conforming 
to  the  laws,  shall  receive  the  protection  of  the  government. 

2d.  All  foreign  vessels  shall  be  received  into  the  ports  and  harbours 
of  Samoa  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  supplies  and  for  commerce,  and 
with  their  officers  and  crews,  so  long  as  they  shall  comply  with  these 
regulations  and  behave  themselves  peaceably,  shall  receive  the  pro- 
tection of  the  government. 

3d.  The  fullest  protection  shall  be  given  to  all  foreign  ships  and  ves- 
sels which  may  be  wrecked,  and  any  property  saved  shall  be  taken 
possession  of  by  the  consul  of  the  country  to  which  the  vessel  belongs, 
who  will  allow  a  salvage  or  portion  of  the  property  so  saved,  to  those 
who  may  aid  in  saving  and  protecting  the  same,  and  no  embezzlement 


APPENDIX.  429 

will  be  permitted  under  any  circumstances  whatever.  The  effects  of 
all  persons  deceased  shall  be  given  up  to  the  consul  of  the  nation  to 
which  they  may  have  belonged. 

4th.  Any  person  guilty  of  the  crime  of  murder  upon  any  foreigner, 
shall  be  given  up  without  delay  to  the  commander  of  any  public  vessel 
of  the  nation  to  which  the  deceased  may  belong,  upon  his  demanding 
the  same. 

5th.  Every  vessel  shall  pay  a  port-charge  of  five  dollars  for  anchor- 
age and  water,  before  she  will  be  allowed  to  receive  refreshments  on 
board,  and  shall  pay  for  pilotage  in  and  out,  the  sum  of  seven  dollars, 
before  she  leaves  the  harbour ;  and  pilots  shall  be  appointed,  subject  to 
the  approval  of  the  consuls. 

6th.  No  work  shall  be  done  on  shore,  nor  shall  any  natives  be  em- 
ployed on  board  vessels  on  the  Sabbath  day,  under  a  penalty  of  ten  dol- 
lars, unless  under  circumstances  of  absolute  necessity. 

7th.  All  trading  in  spirituous  liquors  or  landing  the  same  is  strictly 
forbidden;  any  person  offending  shall  pay  a  fine  of  twenty-five  dollars, 
and  the  vessel  to  which  he  belongs  shall  receive  no  more  refreshments. 
Any  spirituous  liquors  found  on  shore  shall  be  seized  and  destroyed. 

8th.  All  deserters  from  vessels  will  be  apprehended,  and  a  reward 
paid  of  eight  dollars,  viz.,  five  dollars  to  the  person  who  apprehends 
him,  and  three  dollars  to  the  chief  of  the  district  in  which  he  may  be 
apprehended,  on  his  delivery  to  the  proper  officer  of  the  vessel.  No 
master  shall  refuse  to  receive  such  deserter,  under  a  penalty  of  twenty- 
five  dollars.  Deserters  taken  after  the  vessel  has  sailed  shall  be  de- 
livered up  to  the  consul,  to  be  dealt  with  as  he  may  think  fit.  Any 
person  who  entices  another  to  desert,  secretes  a  deserter,  or  in  any 
way  assists  him,  shall  be  subject  to  a  penalty  of  five  dollars  or  one 
month's  hard  labour  on  the  public  roads. 

9th.  No  master  shall  land  a  passenger  without  permission  of  the 
government,  under  a  penalty  of  twenty-five  dollars,  and  no  individual 
shall  be  permitted  to  land  or  reside  in  Samoa,  without  special  permis- 
sion of  the  government.  Any  one  so  landing  shall  be  compelled  to  leave 
by  the  first  opportunity. 

10th.  If  a  sick  person  be  left  on  shore  from  any  vessel  for  the  re- 
covery of  his  health,  he  shall  be  placed  under  charge  of  the  consul,  who 
shall  be  responsible  for  his  sick  expenses,  and  will  send  him  away  by 
the  first  opportunity  after  his  recovery. 

llth.  Any  seaman  remaining  on  shore  after  nine  o'clock  at  night, 
shall  be  made  a  prisoner  of,  until  the  next  morning,  when  he  shall  be 
sent  on  board,  and  shall  pay  a  fine  of  five  dollars. 

12th.  All  fines  to  be  paid  in  specie  or  its  equivalent ;  or  be  com- 


430  APPENDIX. 

muted  by  the  government,  at  the  rate  of  one  month's  hard  labour  on 
the  public  roads  for  five  dollars. 

13th.  Should  the  master  of  any  vessel  refuse  to  comply  with  any  of 
these  regulations,  a  statement  of  the  case  shall  be  furnished  to  the  con- 
sul of  the  nation  to  which  he  belongs,  and  redress  sought  from  thence. 

14th.  All  magistrates  or  chiefs  of  districts,  where  vessels  or  boats 
may  visit,  shall  enforce  the  rules  and  regulations  relative  to  the  landing 
of  foreigners,  and  apprehension  of  deserters,  or  pay  such  a  fine  as  the 
Malo  shall  impose. 

15th.  For  carrying  into  effect  the  foregoing  rules  and  regulations, 
the  chiefs  and  governors  of  the  respective  districts  shall  be  account- 
able, and  elect  one  of  their  number  to  act  as  a  magistrate  or  judge,  to 
execute  the  laws. 

16th.  These  regulations  shall  be  printed,  promulgated,  and  a  copy 
furnished  to  the  master  of  each  vessel  visiting  these  islands. 

Done  in  council  at  the  port  of  Apia,  in  the  island  of  Upolu,  this  5th 
day  of  November,  A.  D.  1839. 

MALIETOA,  his  X  mark. 

TAI-MA-LE-LAGI,     "    X      " 
MALETAU,  "    X     " 

PEA,  "     X     " 

TOOA,  "    x     " 

MOLE,  "    x     " 

SANGA,  "    X     " 

Witnesses. 

CHARLES  WILKKS, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

J.  C.  WILLIAMS, 

U.  S.  Consul. 
W.  C.  CUNNINGHAM, 

H.  B.  M.  Consul. 
November  5th,  1839. 

The  foregoing  commercial  rules  and  regulations,  having  been  signed 
by  the  chiefs  in  my  presence,  and  submitted  to  me,  I  consider  them 
just  and  proper,  and  shall  forward  to  the  American  government  a 
copy  of  the  same,  for  the  information  of  all  masters  of  vessels  visiting 
the  Samoan  or  Navigator  Group  of  Islands. 

(Signed)       CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition, 

United  States  of  America. 
U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 
Harbour  of  Apia,  Island  of  Upolu, 
Samoan,  or  Navigator  Group, 

November  6th,  1839. 


APPENDIX. 


431 


X. 


NUMBER  OF  PERSONS  COMMITTED  FOR  TRIAL  FROM   1831   TO   1837. 


CRIMES. 

1831. 

1832. 

1833. 

1834. 

1835. 

1836. 

1837, 

M. 

F. 

M. 

F. 

M. 

F. 

M. 

F. 

M. 

F, 

M. 

F. 

M. 

F. 

Murder, 

18 

— 

15 

1 

18 

3 

31 

5 

36 

4 

29 

1 

27 

— 

Attempt  to  mur- 

der, shooting 

at,    stabbing, 

cutting    and 

maiming, 

with  intent, 

12 



15 

1 

18 

3 

31 

5 

18 

— 

30 

2 

26 

4 

Manslaughter, 

2 

— 

4 

— 

2 

— 

5 

— 

5 

— 

13 

— 

4 

— 

Rape, 

5 

— 

3 

— 

10 

— 

9 

— 

24 

— 

15 

— 

9 

— 

Arson, 

5 

— 

6 

— 

1 

— 

1 

— 

7 

— 

— 

— 

11 

2 

Forgery, 

4 

— 

6 

— 

9 

— 

16 

— 

21 

— 

1 

15 

1 

22 

Highway    rob- 

bery,    bush- 

ranging    at 

large,  with 

fire-arms, 

37 



46 



82 

— 

158 

3 

111 

5 

78 

1 

77 

2 

Cattle,  horse, 

and  sheep- 

stealing, 

54 

2 

42 



25 

— 

114 

1 

118 

1 

114 

2 

134 

— 

Burglary, 

37 

— 

21 

— 

30 

— 

41 

— 

33 

— 

42 

3 

50 

— 

Perjury, 

7 

— 

10 

— 

12 

2 

19 

3 

8 

2 

12 

3 

16 

5 

Piracy  and  re- 

volt, 

— 

— 

34 



— 

— 

6 

— 

— 

— 

4 

— 

11 

— 

Larceny,  know- 

ingly  receiv- 

ing    stolen 

property, 

271 

34 

269 

54 

253 

44 

367 

58 

484 

89 

562 

115 

450 

89 

Misdemeanour 

and  assault, 

69 

9 

84 

11 

94 

19 

95 

23 

91 

20 

106 

11 

112 

10 

1836.  1837. 

MALF.S.      FEM.  MALES.      FEM. 

Sentence  of  death  passed  on  prisoners, 32        —  23        — 

Transportation,         254         42  164         16 

Labour  and  imprisonment, 299         22  315         35 

Executed, 26        —  12        — 


432 


APPENDIX. 

X. C  ONTINUED. 


ISSUES  TRIED  BEFORE  COURTS  OF  QUARTER  SESSIONS. 

Abstract  of  Returns  of  the  number  of  Criminal  Issues  and  Prisoners  tried  before  the  several 
Courts  of  Quarter  Sessions  throughout  the  Colony,  distinguishing  those  tried  by  Civil,  and 
by  Military  Juries — laid  before  the  Legislative  Council  on  the  llth  September,  1839. 


WHEN  AND  WHERE  TRIED. 

BY  CIVIL  JURIES. 

BY  MILITARY  JURIES. 

a  a 

3  5 
o  p 

PERSONS 
TRIED. 

CON- 
VICTED. 

CASES 
TRIED. 

PERSONS 
TRIED. 

CON- 
VICTED. 

1838. 

COUNTY  OF  CUMBERLAND  :  — 

100 
11 
12 
42 

38 

119 

18 
15 
55 

16 

68 
12 
12 
24 

12 

143 

7 
14 
15 

41 

158 
9 

18 
20 

48 

114 
5 

14 
8 

29 

1st.  Jan.  1837,  to  15th  Aug.  1839. 

1st.  Jan.  1837,  to  15th  Aug.  1839. 
Maitland      

CRIMINAL  ISSUES  TRIED  BEFORE  THE  SUPREME  COURT. 

A  Return  of  the  number  of  Criminal  Issues  and  Prisoners  tried  before  the  Supreme  Court 
of  New  South  Wales,  from  the  1st  day  of  January,  1837,  to  the  15th  day  of  August, 
1839  ;  distinguishing  those  tried  by  Civil,  and  by  Military  Juries. 


NO.  OF  CASES  TRIED. 

NO.  OF  PRISONERS  TRIED. 

NO.  OF  PRISONERS  CONVICTED. 

YEAR. 

BY  A  CIVIL 

BY  A  MILI- 

BY A   CIVIL 

BY  A  MILITARY 

BY  A  CIVIL 

BY  A  MILITARY 

JURY. 

TARY  JURY. 

JURY. 

JURY. 

JURY. 

JURY. 

1837 

136 

130 

223 

175 

99 

97 

1838 

108 

136 

168 

181 

96 

118 

1839 

57 

46 

83 

76 

46 

60 

TOTALS 

301 

312 

474 

432 

241 

275 

APPENDIX.  433 

XL 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Sydney  Cove,  Dec.  llth,  1839. 
GENTLEMEN, — 

To  prevent  any  misunderstanding  relative  to  the  conversation  with 
you  on  the  30th  ultimo,  I  would  state  that  it  was  not  my  intention  to 
make  any  proposition  to  you  to  leave  the  squadron,  during  our  cruise 
south,  but  to  receive  any  suggestions  that  you  might  offer,  after  being 
informed  of  our  cruise,  that  might  be  considered  more  advantageous 
to  your  departments  than  accompanying  the  squadron  in  the  Antarctic 
cruise. 

It  is  my  intention  to  sail  from  this  harbour  on  the  18th  instant,  with 
all  the  vessels  of  the  squadron  for  the  Antarctic  Ocean. 

The  vessels  will  be  ordered  to  call  at  New  Zealand  in  the  spring, 
and  may  be  expected  there  in  March  or  April,  if  they  are  not  detained 
by  ice. 

I  request  that  such  of  you  as  may  wish  orders  to  join  the  squadron 
at  New  Zealand  under  these  circumstances,  will  inform  me  by  letter. 
I  am,  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)          CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
To  the  Gentlemen  of  the  Scientific  Corps. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

December  19th,  1839. 
GENTLEMEN, — 

Agreeably  to  your  application,  you  will  remain  on  shore,  and  join 
the  squadron  on  the  return  of  the  Expedition,  from  the  Antarctic 
Ocean,  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  by  the  1st  of  March  next. 

You  will,  of  course,  employ  yourselves  as  may  be  most  conducive 
to  the  interest  of  the  Expedition,  in  New  South  Wales  and  New 
Zealand,  and  will  keep  a  minute  journal,  making  all  possible  collections, 
and  a  full  report  to  me  in  writing,  of  your  observations  and  duties. 

Vouchers  for  passages   and   expenses  on  scientific  excursions  on 
public  duty,  will  be  taken  when  practicable  for  my  approval. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)         CHARLES  WILKES, 

To  MESHRS.  PEAI.K,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

RICH, 

PlCKERIXU, 

HALE, 
DANA, 

AGATE, 
DRAYTO.V, 

Scirntific  Corps. 
VOL.  II.  55 


APPENDIX. 

Sydney,  December  2d,  1839. 
SIR  — 

The  undersigned,  naval  officers  and  naturalists,  attached  to  the 
Expedition  under  your  command,  are  prompted  by  sincere  zeal  in  the 
public  service,  and  a  most  disinterested  desire  to  promote  the  important 
objects  of  the  cruise,  to  submit  to  your  indulgent  consideration  the  fol- 
lowing proposition  : 

We  are  induced  to  think  that  an  English  brig  lately  arrived  in  this 
harbour,  and,  in  our  judgment,  very  well  adapted  for  such  a  service, 
may  be  purchased  at  a  reasonable  rate ;  and  that,  while  the  rest  of  the 
squadron  proceeds  on  the  southern  tour,  we  may  be  advantageously 
employed  in  the  survey  and  examination  of  many  interesting  and  im- 
portant islands.  We,  therefore,  respectfully  suggest  the  employment 
of  this  or  a  similar  vessel,  and  volunteer  our  best  endeavours  to  per- 
form to  the  spirit  such  duties  as  you  may  conclude  to  assign  to  us 
during  your  absence  in  the  south ;  and  we  beg  you  to  accept  our 
assurance,  that,  in  case  of  your  consent,  no  exertion  shall  be  spared  to 
justify  this  proposal,  and  recommend  our  temporary  service  to  your 
highest  consideration.  Very  respectfully. 

WM.  M.  WALKER,*  T.  R.  PEALE, 

JAMES  ALDEN,  WM.  RICH, 

Lieutenants.  JAMES  D.  DANA, 

J.  C.  PALMER,  H.  HALE, 

Acting-Surgeon.  ALFRED  T.  AGATE, 

WM.  REYNOLDS,  Scientific  Corps. 

SIMON  F.  BLUNT, 

Passed  Midshipmen. 

NOTE. — No  notice  was  taken  of  this  letter:  it  being  one  of  the 
official  communications  of  the  cruise,  has  caused  me  to  insert  it. 

CHARLES  WILKES. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

December  2d,  1839. 

IN  declining  to  sign  the  accompanying  paper  I  do  not  wish  to  have 
it  understood  that  I  disapprove  of  the  proposition  in  the  main.  If  the 
commander  of  the  Expedition  should  find  that  it  better  suited  his  con- 
venience to  charter  a  vessel  to  convey  us  to  a  rendezvous,  and  for 
other  purposes,  I  should  not  conceive  that  I  had  a  voice  in  the  matter ; 
but  a  direct  proposition  having  already  been  made  (with  which  I  have 

*  Mr.  Walker  begs  leave  to  disavow  any  thought  of  promotion  on  the  projected  service, 
and,  in  anticipation,  begs  respectfully,  but  most  earnestly,  to  decline  any  acting  appointment. 


APPENDIX.  435 

every  reason  to  be  satisfied),  perhaps  some  expression  of  opinion  may 
be  looked  for  on  my  part. 

I  confess  then  freely  that  I  have  been  actuated  somewhat  by  selfish 
considerations.  A  visit  to  New  Zealand  is  a  point  which  I  have  more 
at  heart  than  any  other  in  these  seas,  and  I  conceive  the  time  allotted 
by  no  means  too  much  to  be  employed  between  Australia,  New  Zealand, 
and  the  Tonga  Islands.  Perhaps,  if  I  had  every  thing  at  my  disposal, 
I  should  feel  tempted  to  touch  at  some  southern  point  of  New  Zealand, 
before  proceeding  to  the  Bay  of  Islands ;  but  there  would  be  danger  in 
this,  both  by  land  and  water,  besides  the  risk  of  losing  the  main  points 
of  observation.  Farther  than  this,  I  should  not  think  of  attempting.  I 
should  therefore  deprecate  any  change  of  plan,  which  would  lead  to  a 
change  of  destination,  but  of  course  should  not  expect  my  individual 
voice  to  weigh  against  the  general  good  of  the  Expedition. 

CHARLES  PICKERING. 
To  CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ., 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Sydney  Cove,  Dec.  23d,  1839. 

SIR,— 

You  will  proceed  to  New  Zealand  by  the  first  opportunity,  and 
attend  to  the  following  duties. 

1st.  You  will  make  hourly  observations  of  the  tides. 

2d.  Observations   of  the   temperature,   at   eight,  twelve,   and   six; 
winds,  weather,  &c. 

3d.  Collect  all  specimens  possible  for  the  scientific  corps,  and  other 
departments  of  the  Expedition. 

4th.  Keep  a  journal,  and  note  all  the  information  you  can  obtain 
relative  to  New  Zealand,  and  make  a  report  in  writing  to  me. 

You  will   take  with   you  a  tide-staff,  three  thermometers,  watch, 
stationary,  &c. 

I  am,  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)       CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
MR.  J.  W.  WALDRON, 

U.  S.  Brig  Porpoise. 


XII. 

RETURN  OF  THE  SCHOOLS  IN  NEW  SOUTH  WALES  IN  THE  YEAR  1838. 


DESCRIPTION. 

WHERE  SITUATED. 

HO.  OF  SCHOOLS. 

no.  OF  SCHOLARS 
ATTENDING. 

EXPENSE  PAID 
BY  THS 
GOVERNMENT 
IN 
1838. 

REMARKS. 

MALE. 

1 

TOTAL 

I.         INSTITUTIONS       AND 
SCHOOLS,       SUPPORTED 
WHOLLY,  OR    IN  PART, 
BY  GOVERNMENT. 

Church  of  England. 
Male  Orphan  Institution.  . 
FemaleOrphan  Institution 

Primary  and  Infant           ( 
Schools                            J 

Roman  Catholic. 
Orphan  Institution....     j 
Primary  and  Infant  < 
Primary  and  Infant  < 

Presbyterian. 
Primary  and  Infant  < 
Australian  School  Society. 

Liverpool  

I 
1 
6 
29 
37 

1 

5 
5 
1 
4 

147 

507 

f.82 

141 
383 
548 

147 

141 
950 
1.230 

£.      a.    d. 

3,090  15    8i 
3,708    5    5 

2,580    0    3j 

)      Supported  wholly  by   Go- 
)  vernment. 
1     Supported    chiefly   by  Go- 
vernment;   some  slight  por- 
f  tion  of  the  expense  is  paid  by 
J  the  parents  of  the  children. 

)     Supported  wholly  by  Go- 
i  vernment. 
"j      Supported    chiefly  by   Go- 
!  vernmerit  ;  some  slipht  pur- 
Jtion  of  the  expense  is  paid  by 
the  parents  of  the  children. 

These    schools    are    sup- 
ported  by  Government,  and 
liy  voluntary  contributions; 
the  principle  being,  that  in 
aid  of  each  school,  sums  are 
paid  from  the  Colonial  Trea- 
sury, equal   to  those  raised 
by  private  subscription*. 

IThe  expenses  are  defrayed 
by  the  subscribers  to  these 
^institution?,  and  by  the  fees 
j  paid  by  the  parents  or  guar- 
j  dians  of  the  students. 

Country  Districts 

Waverly  Crescent, 
near  Sydney  .  • 

1,3% 

1,072 

2,468 

9,379    1    5 

40 

239 
234 

50 

22 

225 
157 

70 

62 

464 
391 

120 

800    0    0 
769  13  11 

126    7    71 
1,1596     1    <>i 

Country  Districts 

Country  Districts 

If. 

10 

7 

2 
4 

1 
I 
1 
3 

503 

474 

1,037 

200 
Esli 

40 

* 

105 
125 
70 

150 
mated 

30 

350 

Nos. 

76 

105 
125 

70 

1,121    6    6 

178    0  11 
50  15    8 

Country  Districts 
Sydney  

Wfsleyan. 

Sydney  

U.       INSTITUTIONS       AND 
SCHOOLS,       SUPPORTED 
WHOLLY    BY    PRIVATE 
INDIVIDUALS. 

Colleges. 
K  i  ng's  School  
Sydney  College  

Paramatta  
Sydney  
Sydney  

Private  Schools. 
Classical,  Elementary,      > 
&c.                      .            \ 

300 

- 

300 

30 
37 

67 

390 
442 

530 
444 

920 
886 

-  

Country  Districts 

832 

974 

1,806 

TOTALS 

142   3,337 

2,700 

6,037 

£12,425    6    Oi 

»  Number  oCChildren  attending  these  Schools,  312,  of  which  157  are  Males,  and  155  Females. 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES- 
ABSTRACT  OF  THE  RETURNS  OF  THE  POPULATION  IN  THE  DIFFERENT  POLICE  DISTRICTS,  AS  DEFINED  Ils 

LOCATION,  PENAL  SETTLEMENTS,  AND  EMPLOYED  IN 


NUMBER  OF  EACH  AGE. 

MALES. 

FEMALES. 

<u 

3 

o 

CB 

0 

§ 

«B 

>> 

>t 

>, 

te 

DISTRICT. 

a 
CD 
o 

0> 
£ 

1 

"S 

i 

£3 

1 

"3 

c 

C 

EH 

CJ 

02 
t* 

CJ 

3 

EH 

02 

1 

1 

•o 

c 

o 
•a 

09 

"O 

1 

£ 

V 

-a 

i 

1 

. 

t, 

V 

Q 

•a 

3 

3 

k 

c 

-a 

§ 

-o 

e 

-a 

c 
a 

T3 

& 

.g 

•o 

3 

§ 

T3 

o 

c 

o 

c 

3 

a 

d 

2 

3 

a 

C 

EH 

cd 

•a 

CO 

a 

o 

a 
o 

j», 

V 

13 
§ 

EH 

1 

•n 
§ 

a 

a 

y 

5 

1 

CJ 
T3 
C 
P 

O 
EH 

a 
2 

y 

3 

ro 

e 

EH 

1 

« 

02 

B 

T3 
C 

1 

EH 

1 
i 

M 

£ 

EH 

O 

EM 

• 

Police  District  of  Sydney       .... 

1106 

1977  1882  1849 

11782 

1626 

511 

1161 

1998 

1916 

1861 

6914 

717 

. 

44          Paramatta       .     .     . 

284 

515    642    488 

2727 

528 

221 

301 

616 

721 

486 

2082 

331 

1 

14        Liverpool    .... 

52 

139    220      83 

588 

137 

48 

70 

112 

102 

79 

314 

4( 

44        Campbelltown     .    . 

108 

179 

21  4    145 

952 

176 

66 

110 

184 

200 

164 

472 

73 

44         Stonequarry    .     .     . 

42 

77 

76 

54 

466 

66 

19 

47 

72 

62 

36 

189 

16 

44         Illawarra    .... 

155 

257 

213 

190 

1529 

240 

49 

144 

233 

222 

165 

547 

88 

44         Berrima      .... 

37 

81 

63 

61 

613 

99 

26 

37 

67 

70 

53 

173 

3; 

44         Goulburn    .... 

109 

206 

150 

134 

1835 

227 

48 

133 

187 

132 

92 

464 

43 

44         Braidvvood       .     .     . 

15 

42 

52 

61 

540 

89 

15 

28 

48 

52 

33 

110 

1] 

27 

36 

37 

56 

36^ 

37 

7 

97 

32 

3'. 

1  fi 

QA 

| 

44         Qucanbcyan    .     .     . 

21 

31 

31 

44 

524 

63 

3 

&  i 

22 

35 

^ 
31 

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18 

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87 

Yass      

36 

53 

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76 

14 

41 

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44         Windsor     .... 

238 

449 

504 

308 

1626 

512 

285 

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212 

Vi 

476 

415 

i 
330 

104 

841 

177 

4         Penrith  

125 

260 

232 

176 

106' 

283 

74 

101 

228 

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Hartley       .... 

23 

39 

41 

44 

327 

48 

12 

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39 

32 

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109 

7 
11 

4        Bathurst     .... 

132 

224 

159 

178 

1604 

244 

26 

97 

208 

133 

105 

504 

48 

4         Carcoar       .... 

22 

46 

18 

30 

606 

66 

20 

19 

50 

27 

19 

89 

6 

'         Wellington      .     .     . 

7 

13 

5 

22 

257 

41 

7 

13 

21 

{ 

8 

44 

6 

4         Mudgee      .... 

11 

29 

18 

25 

397 

75 

i 

24 

26 

14 

13 

67 

i 

4         Brisbane  Water  .     . 

39 

59 

57 

53 

441 

60 

12 

56 

55 

37 

36 

164 

JC 

4         Newcastle  and  Ray- 

mond Terrace 

59 

102 

72 

107 

1221 

135 

17 

51 

96 

81 

86 

295 

28 

44         Dungog      .... 

50 

71 

56 

110 

771 

99 

11 

39 

69 

55 

42 

153 

28 

44         Maitland    .... 

202 

365 

351 

237 

2324 

277 

52 

233 

371 

308 

220 

947 

91 

44         Wollombi    and   Mc- 

• 

Donald  River  .     . 

37 

63 

65 

52 

429 

97 

15 

41 

78 

58 

34 

156 

22 

44         Paterson     .... 

83 

137 

11!) 

117 

1246 

120 

15 

123    143 

113 

86 

406 

31 

44         Patrick's  Plains  .     . 

77 

165 

160 

105 

1110 

152 

29 

101 

152 

115 

80 

373 

30 

• 

44         Morton     and    Mus- 

wcllbrook    .     .     . 

33 

51 

46 

55 

515 

59 

10 

34 

41 

38 

18 

141 

10 

44         Scone    and    Murru- 

rnndi      .... 

35 

52 

39 

33 

642 

63 

5 

38 

54 

27 

22 

132 

8 

_ 

44         Cassilis       .... 

7 

15 

16 

29 

430 

50 

10 

13 

in 

12 

3 

39 

2 

_ 

44         Macquarie       .     .     . 

44 

68 

58 

90 

1327 

240 

92 

54 

68 

44 

61 

231 

25 

Wellington      .     .     . 

10 

18 

14 

37 

665 

87 

6 

12 

19 

8 

2 

53 

4 



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14 

27 

3 

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25 

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1080 

118 

24 

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68 

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42 

47 

35 

63 

958 

97 

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29 

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133 

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'g  fj  o  ~~                  New  England      .     . 

11 

52 
23 

33 

23 

51 

1258 
834 

75 

56 

6 
5 

2 
16 

43 
17 

23 

8 

10 

95 
57 

4 
4 

- 

E  "5  "^                       Clarence  River    .     . 

7 

7 

16 

52 

238 

22 

1 

8 

12 

11 

9 

31 

2 

Q                    ^          McLeay  River     .     . 

12 

20 

21 

30 

308 

47 

5 

17 

25 

11 

14 

71 

2 

Moreton  Bay       .     . 

8 

6 

4 

2 

148 

8 

5 

1 

2 

15 

1 



Norfolk  Island     .     . 

15 

21 

10 

87 

1722 

189      38 

16 

12 

12 

m 
4 

55 

2 

Colonial  Vessels 

.9*      f             County  of  Bourke        .     .     . 

242 

384 

304 

387 

3355 

187 

23 

276 

336 

342 

327 

1485 

67 

a.|                           "         Grant      .... 

13 

24 

22 

45 

445 

47        2 

16 

22 

16 

27 

105 

6 



P"1  •£  s                       "         Normanby  .     .     . 
t;  Q      Commissioners'  \  Western  Port 
£       1       Districts.        )  Portland  Bay  .     . 

8 
18 
24 

20 
30 
21 

11 
37 
21 

8 
68 
53 

408 
972 
865 

45 

58, 
105 

2 
7 
13 

10 
20 
18 

16 
27 
24 

8 
16 
13 

12 
15 
3 

47 
95 
96 

1 

8 
4 

— 

TOTAL      .      .      . 

707 

6633 

G396  6045 

53381 

7212  1884 

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2175 

SI 

VSUS  OF  THE  YEAR  1841. 


GOVERNMENT  NOTICE  OF   12TH  AUGUST,    1840?    COMMISSIONERS'  DISTRICTS  BEYOND  THE  BOUNDARY  OF 
COLONIAL  VESSELS,  TAKEN  ON  THE  2o  MARCH,    1841. 


MARRIED  OR  SINGLE.                   CIVIL  CONDITION. 

MALES. 

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FEMALES. 

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FREE. 

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612 
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491 
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589 
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302 
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128 
83 
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267 
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596 
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122 
385 
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589 
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621 
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20733 
5405 
1267 
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800 
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980 
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563 
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534 
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155 
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RETURN  OF  IMMIGRANTS  AND  CONVICTS  ARRIVED,  AND  OF  BIRTHS  AND  DEATHS,  IN  THE  COLONY  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES,  FROM  THE  YEAR  1837  TO 
1840,  INCLUSIVELY. 

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APPENDIX. 


XV. 

RETURN    OF    THE  VALUE   OF    IMPORTS,    FROM    THE    YEAR    1826    TO    1840, 

INCLUSIVELY. 


VALUE, 

After    de- 

YEAR. 

From 
Great 
Britain. 

From 
British 
Colonies. 

From 
South 
Sea 
Islands. 

From 

New 
Zealand. 

From 
Fisheries. 

From 
United 
States. 

From 
Foreign 
States. 

Total. 

ducting 
Imports 
from  New 
Zealand 

and  the 

Fisheries. 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

1826 

280,000 

30,000 

— 

— 

— 

— 

50,000 

360,000 



1827 

253,975 

63,220 

— 

— 

— 

— 

45,129 

362,324 

— 

1823 

399,892   125,862 

— 

— 

— 

— 

44,246 

570,000 

— 

1829 

423,463   135,486 

— 

— 

— 

— 

42,055 

601,004 

— 

1830 

268,935 

60,356 

— 

— 

— 

— 

91,189 

420,480 

— 

1831 

241,989 

68,804 

— 

— 

— 

— 

179,359 

490,152 

— 

1832 

409,344 

47,895 

— 

— 

— 

— 

147,38] 

604,620 

— 

1833 

434,220 

61,662 

— 

— 

— 

— 

218,090 

713,972 

— 

1834 

66:),663 

124,570 

— 

— 

— 

— 

197,757 

991,990 

— 

1835 

707,133 

144,824 

1,420 

35,542 

141,823 

13,902 

70,161 

1,114,805 

937,400 

1836 

794,422 

220,254 

1,972 

32,155 

103,575 

22,739 

62,289 

1,237,406 

1,101,676 

1837 

807,264 

257,427 

1,764 

42,886 

80,441 

9,777 

97,932 

1,297,491 

1,174,164 

1838 

1,102,127 

255,975 

5,548 

53,943 

71,506 

8,066 

82,112 

1,579,277 

1,453,828 

1839 

1,251,969 

504,828 

3,863 

71,709 

186,212 

23,093 

194,697 

2,236,371 

1,978,450 

1840 

2,200,305 

376,954 

1,348 

54,192 

104,895 

24,164 

252,331 

3,014,189 

2,855,102 

RETURN  OF  THE   VALUE    OF    EXPORTS,  FROM    THE    YEAR    1826    TO    1840, 

INCLUSIVELY. 


YEAR. 

To  Great 
Britain. 

To  British 
Colonies. 

To 

South 
Sea 
Islands. 

To 

New 
Zealand. 

To 

Fisheries. 

To 

United 
States. 

To 

Foreign 

States. 

TOTAL 
VALUE. 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

1826 

101,314 

1,735 







_ 

3,551 

106,600 

1827 

70,507 

4,926 

— 

— 

— 

— 

881 

76,314 

1828 

84,008 

4,845 

— 

— 

— 



1,197 

90,050 

1829 

146,283 

12,692 

— 







2,741 

161,716 

1830 

120,559 

15,597 

— 

— 

— 

— 

23,503 

159,659 

1831 

211,138 

60,354 

— 

— 

— 

— 

52,676 

324,168 

1832 

252,106 

63,934 

— 

— 

— 

— 

68,304 

384,344 

1833 

269,508 

67,344 

— 

— 

— 

— 

57,949 

394,801 

1834 

400,738 

128,211 

— 

— 

— 

— 

58,691 

587,640 

1835 

496,345 

83,108 

2,696 

39,984 

38,445 

18,594 

3,011 

682,193 

1836 

513,976 

136,596 

9,628 

36,184 

35,918 

13,697 

2,625 

748,624 

1837 

518,951 

118,447 

485 

39,528 

54,434 

10,617 

17,592 

760,054 

1838 

583,154 

113,716 

7,137 

46,924 

33,988 

11,324 

6,525 

802,768 

1839 

597,100 

194,684 

1,347 

95,173 

34,729 

18,568 

7,175 

948,776 

1840 

792,494 

304,724 

6,621 

215,486 

27,864 

27,885 

24,618 

1,399,692 

444 


APPENDIX. 


XVI. 

RETURN  OF  LIVE-STOCK  IMPORTED  INTO  NEW  SOUTH  WALES,  IN  EACH  YEAR,  FROM 

1828  TO    1840. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  STOCK. 

YEAR. 

Horses. 

Horses  and 

Mules. 

Horned  Cattle. 

Sheep  and 
Goats. 

Sheep  and 
Hogs. 

Sheep. 

Number. 

Number. 

Number. 

Number. 

Number. 

Number. 

1828 

132 

3,443 

1829 

— 

16 

— 

— 

— 

2,215 

1830 

— 

12 

— 

— 

— 

10 

1831 



Not  stated 



— 



66 

1832 

— 

— 

— 

36 

— 



1833 





— 

— 



_ 

1834 

6 

— 

— 

— 

62 

_ 

1835 

11 

— 

— 

— 

137 



1836 

8 



4 

— 

449 



1837 

92 

— 

97 

— 

307 

55,208 

1838 

185 

— 

74 

— 

192 

9,822 

1839 

652 

— 

135 

— 

359 

17,567 

1840 

1,008 

— 

244 

— 

252  ) 

19,958 

Hogs.  < 

RETURN    OF    VESSELS    BUILT    AND    REGISTERED    IN    THE    COLONY    OF  NEW  SOUTH 
WALES,  FROM  THE  YEAR   1822  TO   1840,  INCLUSIVELY. 


VESSELS  BUILT. 

VESSELS  REGISTERED. 

YEAR. 

Number. 

Tons. 

Number. 

Tons. 

1822 

3 

163 

3 

163 

1823 

3 

182 

3 

182 

1824 

5 

157 

5 

157 

1825 

2 

119 

2 

119 

1826 

12 

654 

19 

1,634 

1827 

9 

434 

19 

1,732 

1828 

6 

162 

13 

478 

1829 

7 

462 

5 

428 

1830 

3 

78 

25 

1,777 

1831 

5 

112 

38 

3,224 

1832 

5 

220 

21 

2,143 

1833 

6 

393 

29 

2,655 

1834 

9 

376 

19 

1,852 

1835 

7                             303 

21 

2,267 

1836 

9                             301 

39 

4,560 

1837 

17 

760 

36 

3,602 

1838 

20                             808 

41 

6,229 

1839 

11                             763 

75 

10,668 

1840 

17                           1196 

94 

12,153 

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APPENDIX. 


447 


XVIII. 

RETURN  OF  WOOL  EXPORTED  FROM  THE  COLONY  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES,  FROM 

1822  TO  1840. 


YEAR. 

QUANTITY. 

VALUE, 

As  entered  in 
the  Returns  of 
Exports. 

YEAR. 

QUANTITY. 

VALUE, 

As  entered  in 
the  Returns  of 
Exports. 

Ibs. 

£ 

Ibs. 

£ 

1822 

172,880 

Not  known 

1832 

1,515,156 

73,559 

1823 

198,240 

— 

1833 

1,734,203 

103,692 

1824 

275,560 

— 

1834 

2,246,933 

213,628 

1825 

411,600 

— 

1835 

3,893,927 

299,587 

1826 

552,960 

48,384 

1836 

3,693,241 

369,324 

1827 

407,116 

24,306 

1837 

4,448,796 

332,166 

1828 

834,343 

40,851 

1838 

5,749,376 

405,977 

1829 

1,005,333 

63,555 

1839 

7,213,584 

442,504 

1830 

899,750 

34,907 

1840 

8,610,775 

566,112 

1831 

1,401,284 

75,979 

RETURN  OF  AMOUNT  OF  AUCTION  DUTY,  AT   1       PER    CENT.,    PAID    INTO    THE    COLO- 
NIAL TREASURY,  FROM   1824  TO   1840,  INCLUSIVELY. 


YEAR. 

AMOUNT  OF  DUTY. 

YEAR. 

AMOUNT  OF  DUTY. 

£ 

8. 

d. 

£ 

s. 

d. 

1824 

328 

3 

11 

1833 

1,540 

2 

8 

1825 

555 

3 

1 

1834 

2,327 

6 

10 

1826 

576 

7 

14 

1835 

3,135 

16 

2 

1827 

682 

18 

HI 

1836 

4,697 

11 

5 

1828 

1,325 

10 

7J 

1837 

4,820 

3 

11 

1829 

1,228 

7 

If 

1838 

6,137 

10 

1 

1830 

1,423 

18 

3* 

1839 

7,700 

16 

5 

1831 

1,353 

7 

4| 

1840 

18,701 

2 

10 

1832 

1,415 

15 

101 

TOTAL 

£°,S89 

12 

41 

TOTAL 

£49,060 

10 

4 

448 


APPENDIX. 
XIX. 


RETURN    OF    THE    AMOUNTS    RECEIVED    FROM    THE    SALE    OF    CROWN    LANDS,    FROM 
1824  TO   1840,  INCLUSIVELY. 


YEAR. 

AMOUNT. 

YEAR. 

AMOUNT. 

£ 

8. 

d. 

£ 

8. 

d. 

1824 

279 

17 

H 

1833 

24,956 

1 

1 

1825 

5,548 

14 

10 

1834 

41,844 

9 

1 

1826 

2,596 

2 

6 

1835 

80,784 

14 

6 

1827 

2,274 

11 

7 

1836 

126,458 

16 

0 

1828 

5,004 

19 

2 

1837 

120,427 

0 

5 

1829 

2,710 

15 

0 

1838 

116,324 

18 

11 

1830 

943 

5 

10 

1839 

152,962 

16 

4 

1831 

2,597 

1 

10 

1840 

316,626 

7 

5 

1832 

12,509 

13 

10 

TOTAL 

34,465 

2 

4i 

TOTAL 

980,385 

3 

9 

L 

XX. 

ESTIMATED    QUANTITY    OF     LAND    IN    CULTIVATION,    EXCLUSIVE    OF    GARDENS    AND 
ORCHARDS,  ON  31ST  DECEMBER,   1840. 


CROPS. 

WHEAT. 

MAIZE. 

BARLEY. 

OATS. 

RYE. 

MILLET. 

POTATOES. 

TOBACCO. 

SOWN 
GRASSES. 

Acres. 

Acres. 

Acres. 

Acres. 

Acres. 

Acres. 

Acres. 

Acres. 

Acres. 

74,133 

24,966 

5,144 

5,453 

609 

115 

2,594 

381 

12,721 

PRODUCE. 

WHEAT. 

MAIZE. 

BARLEY. 

OATS. 

RYE. 

MILLET. 

POTATOES. 

TOBACCO. 

SOWN 
GRASSES 
(HAY.) 

Bushels. 

Bushels. 

Bushels. 

Bushels. 

Bushels. 

Bushels. 

Tons. 

3\vt. 

Tons. 

Cwt 

Tons. 

1,116,814 

777,947 

105,389 

66,020 

8,863 

3,338 

11,050 

15 

215 

— 

21,329 

APPENDIX.  449 

XXL 

U.  S.  Ship  Peacock, 

Sydney  Cove,  New  South  Wales, 

December  21st,  1839. 
SIR, — 

Having  thoroughly  examined  this  ship  at  different  times,  and  par- 
ticularly at  this  place,  I  would  respectfully  submit  the  following  report 
of  her  condition.  First,  that  the  sheer-streak  is  quite  rotten  in  many 
places,  as  well  as  the  gun  and  berth-deck  water-ways ;  and  from  the 
frequent  calking  the  gun  and  spar-decks  have  undergone,  they  have 
become  much  worn,  and  quite  leaky,  particularly  the  spar-deck ;  also, 
the  stanchions  supporting  the  bulwark  on  the  spar-deck  are  very  much 
decayed,  and  with  the  exception  of  three  or  four  of  them,  are  unsafe, 
and  not  able  to  support  the  rail  and  boats  attached  to  it,  under  any 
thing  more  than  ordinary  circumstances. 

I  am,  sir,  yours  respectfully, 

(Signed)         JONAS  DIBBLE, 

WILLIAM  L.  HUDSON,  Esq..,  Carpenter. 

Commanding  U.  S.  Ship  Peacock. 

U.  S.  Ship  Peacock, 

Sydney,  New  South  Wales, 

December  22d,  1839. 
SIR, — 

I  have  delayed  reporting  in  writing  the  defective  state  of  the  Pea- 
cock until  the  present  time,  with  a  full  knowledge  it  would  have  been 
utterly  impossible  to  have  completed  the  necessary  repairs  at  this  port 
in  sufficient  time  for  our  Antarctic  cruise.  I  feel,  too,  that  the  govern- 
ment and  the  whole  country  are  anticipating  results  from  that  quarter, 
and  are  under  the  full  belief  that  all  the  ships  composing  this  squadron 
were  thoroughly  overhauled,  and  amply  prepared  to  encounter  every 
kind  of  weather.  I  have  no  wish  at  present  to  undeceive  them,  but 
feel  it  my  duty  to  state  to  you  on  the  present  occasion,  that  the  Pea- 
cock's sheer-streak,  to  which  the  channels  are  bolted  and  ports  hung, 
is  perfectly  decayed,  fore  and  aft,  and  that  all  the  stanchions  of  the 
upper-deck  bulwarks,  are  either  rotten,  or  in  an  advanced  state  of 
decay.  Against  these  defects,  however,  I  feel  it  my  duty  to  contend, 
without  anticipating  any  thing  but  favourable  results,  but  at  the  same 
time  prepared  for  the  worst  that  may  occur. 

Yours,  respectfully, 

(Signed)         WM.  L.  HUDSON. 

CAPTAIN  CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding-  Exploring  Expedition. 


450 


APPENDIX. 


XXII. 

RETURN  OF  TIMBER  EXPORTED,  FROM  THE  YEAR   1830    TO    1840, 

INCLUSIVELY. 


Cedar. 

Blue  Gum,  Pine,  and 
other  Timber. 

Treenails. 

YEAR. 

TALUK. 

Quantity. 

Quantity. 

Number. 

£ 

1830 

368,8301 

179,403  1 

23,959 

5,218 

1831 

580,393 

416,857 

*i 

24,316 

8,401 

1832 

418,930 

+2 

233,653 

1 

186,831 

6,132 

1833 

1,086,437 

1 

147,170 

•a 

328,503 

13,153 

1834 

899,492 

HH 

30,065 

..a 

o 

212,467 

7,941 

1835 

907,921  i-.S 

145,628 

CQ 
I* 

178,969 

10,489 

1836 

1,409,467 

ta 

106  Logs  3,778 

o 

OH 

35,094 

14,611 

1837 

116,828 

1 

18,828 

a 
02 

62,989 

14,463 

1838 

699,066 

CO 

9,000, 

73,450 

6,382 

1839 

729,001 

823  Deals,  15  Logs 

40,588 

8,815 

1840 

1,250,786J 

$          151,500 

4,350 

20,971 

\  Superficial  Feet. 

RETURN  OF  OIL,  ETC.,  EXPORTED,  FROM   THE  YEAR   1830  TO   1840, 

INCLUSIVELY. 


Sperm  Whale. 

Black  Whale. 

Whalebone. 

Seal  Skins. 

YEAR. 

VALUE. 

Tuns. 

Tuns. 

Tons. 

Cwt. 

No. 

£ 

1830 

983 

98 

9 

16 

9,720 

59,471 

1831 

1,571 

505 

28 

5 

4,424 

95,969 

1832 

2,491 

695 

43 

6 

1,415 

147,409 

1833 

3,048 

418 

— 

— 

1,890 

146,855 

1834 

2,760 

975 

43 

15 

890 

157,334 

1835 

2,898 

1,159 

112 

— 

641 

180,349 

1836 

1,682 

1,149 

79 

— 

386 

140,220 

1837 

2,559 

1,565 

77 

8 

107 

183,122 

1838 

1,891 

3,055 

174 

— 

3  Cases 

197,644 

1839 

1,578 

1,229 

134 

14 

7  Cases 

172,315 

1840 

1,854 

4,297 

250 

~~ 

474 

224,144 

APPENDIX.  451 


XXIII. 

STATEMENT    OF    THE   INTRODUCTION    AND    PROGRESS    OF    THE    BREED    OF    FINE- 
WOOLLED    SHEEP    IN    NEW    SOUTH    WALES,    DELIVERED    AT    THE    RIGHT    HON. 

LORD  HOBART'S  OFFICE,  26TH  JULY,  1803. 

THE  samples  of  wool  brought  from  New  South  Wales  having  ex- 
cited the  particular  attention  of  the  merchants  and  principal  English 
manufacturers,  Captain  M'Arthur  considers  it  his  duty  respectfully 
to  represent  to  His  Majesty's  ministers,  that  he  has  found,  from  an 
experience  of  many  years,  the  climate  of  New  South  Wales  is  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  the  increase  of  fine-woolled  sheep;  and  that,  from 
the  unlimited  extent  of  luxuriant  pastures  with  which  that  country 
abounds,  millions  of  those  valuable  animals  may  be  raised  in  a  few 
years,  with  but  little  other  expense  than  the  hire  of  a  few  shepherds. 

The  specimens  of  wool  that  Captain  M'Arthur  has  with  him,  have 
been  inspected  by  the  best  judges  of  wool  in  this  kingdom  ;  and  they 
are  of  opinion  that  it  possesses  a  softness  superior  to  many  of  the 
wools  of  Spain ;  and  that  it  certainly  is  equal,  in  every  valuable 
property,  to  the  very  best  that  is  to  be  obtained  from  thence. 

The  sheep  producing  this  fine  wool  are  of  the  Spanish  kind,  sent 
originally  from  Holland  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  taken  from 
thence  to  Port  Jackson. 

Captain  M'Arthur  being  persuaded  that  the  propagation  of  those 
animals  would  be  of  the  utmost  consequence  to  this  country,  procured, 
in  1797,  three  rams  and  five  ewes  ;  and  he  has  since  had  the  satisfac- 
tion to  see  them  rapidly  increase,  their  fleeces  augment  in  weight,  and 
the  wool  very  visibly  improve  in  quality.  When  Captain  M'Arthur 
left  Port  Jackson  in  1801,  the  heaviest  fleece  that  had  then  been  shorn 
weighed  only  three  pounds  and  a  half;  but  he  has  received  reports  of 
1802,  from  which  he  learns  that  the  fleeces  of  his  sheep  were  increased 
to  five  pounds  each  ;*  and  that  the  wool  is  finer  and  softer  than  the 
wool  of  the  preceding  year.  The  fleece  of  one  of  the  sheep  originally 
imported  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  has  been  valued  here  at  four 
shillings  and  sixpence  per  pound  ;  and  a  fleece  of  the  same  kind  bred 
in  New  South  Wales  is  estimated  at  six  shillings  a  pound. 

Being  once  in  possession  of  this  valuable  breed,  and  having  ascer- 
tained that  they  improved  in  that  climate,  he  became  anxious  to  ex- 

*  In  the  grease.  The  average  weight  of  the  fleeces  of  fine-woolled  sheep  in  New  South 
Wales,  washed,  is  two  and  a  half  pounds. 


452  APPENDIX. 

tend  them  as  much  as  possible ;  he  therefore  crossed  all  the  mixed- 
breed  ewes  of  which  his  flocks  were  composed,  with  Spanish  rams. 
The  lambs  produced  from  this  cross  were  much  improved ;  but  when 
they  were  again  crossed,  the  change  far  exceeded  his  most  sanguine 
expectations.  In  four  crosses,  he  is  of  opinion,  no  distinction  will  be 
perceptible  between  the  pure  and  the  mixed  breed.  As  a  proof  of  the 
extraordinary  and  rapid  improvement  of  his  flocks,  Captain  M'Arthur 
has  exhibited  the  fleece  of  a  coarse-woolled  ewe,  that  has  been  valued 
at  ninepence  a  pound;  and  the  fleece  of  her  lamb,  begotten  by  a 
Spanish  ram,  which  is  allowed  to  be  worth  three  shillings  a  pound. 

Captain  M'Arthur  has  now  about  four  thousand  sheep,  amongst 
which  there  are  no  rams  but  of  the  Spanish  breed.  He  calculates  that 
they  will,  with  proper  care,  double  themselves  every  two  years  and  a 
half;  and  that  in  twenty  years  they  will  be  so  increased  as  to  produce 
as  much  fine  wool  as  is  now  imported  from  Spain  and  other  countries, 
at  an  annual  expense  of  £1,800,000  sterling.  To  make  the  principle 
perfectly  plain  upon  which  Captain  M'Arthur  founds  this  expectation, 
he  begs  to  state,  that  half  his  flock  has  been  raised  from  thirty  ewes 
purchased  in  1793,  out  of  a  ship  from  India,  and  from  about  eight  or 
ten  Spanish  and  Irish  sheep  purchased  since.  The  other  half  of  his 
flock  were  obtained  in  1801,  by  purchases  from  an  officer  who  had 
raised  them  in  the  same  time,  and  from  about  the  same  number  of 
ewes  that  Captain  M'Arthur  commenced  with.  This  statement  proves 
that  the  sheep  have  hitherto  multiplied  more  rapidly  than  it  is  calcu- 
lated they  will  do  in  future ;  but  this  is  attributed  to  the  first  ewes 
being  of  a  more  prolific  kind  than  the  Spanish  sheep  are  found  to  be ; 
for  since  Captain  M'Arthur  has  directed  his  attention  to  that  breed 
he  has  observed  the  ewes  do  not  so  often  produce  double  lambs. 

As  a  further  confirmation  of  the  principle  of  increase  that  Captain 
M'Arthur  has  endeavoured  to  establish,  and  which  he  is  positive 
time  will  prove  to  be  correct,  he  would  refer  to  the  general  returns 
transmitted  from  New  South  Wales.  In  1796,  (since  when  not  one 
hundred  sheep  have  been  imported,)  one  thousand  five  hundred  and 
thirty-one  were  returned  as  the  public  and  private  stock  of  the  colony. 
In  1801,  six  thousand  seven  hundred  and  fifty-seven  were  returned  ; 
arid  although  between  those  periods  all  the  males  have  been  killed  as 
soon  as  they  became  fit,  yet  there  is  a  surplus  over  the  calculation  of 
six  hundred  and  thirty-three. 

Captain  M'Arthur  is  so  convinced  of  the  practicability  of  supplying 
this  country  with  any  quantity  of  fine  wool  it  may  require,  that  he  is 
earnestly  solicitous  to  prosecute  this,  as  it  appears  to  him,  important 
object ;  and  on  his  return  to  New  South  Wales,  to  devote  his  whole 


APPENDIX.  453 

attention  to  accelerate  its  complete  attainment.  All  the  risk  attendant 
on  the  undertaking  he  will  cheerfully  bear ;  he  will  require  no  pecuniary 
aid,  and  all  the  encouragement  he  humbly  solicits,  is  the  protection 
of  government,  permission  to  occupy  a  sufficient  tract  of  unoccupied 
lands  to  feed  his  flocks,  and  the  indulgence  of  selecting  from  amongst 
the  convicts,  such  men  for  shepherds,  as  may,  from  their  previous 
occupations,  know  something  of  the  business. 

(Signed)     JOHN  M' ARTHUR. 
London,  26th  July,  1803. 

XXIV. 

U.  S.  Flag-Ship  Vinccnnes, 
New  Zealand,  Bay  of  Islands,  April  5th,  1840. 

MY  DEAR  SIR, — 

I  need  not  tell  you  how  much  I  feel  interested  in  your  cruise.  From 
the  interest  you  took  in  the  outfit  of  our  expedition,  I  am  sure  you  well 
know  the  interest  it  excites,  and  how  much  ihis  feeling  is  heightened 
by  a  knowledge  on  my  part  of  what  you  have  undertaken,  and  have 
to  go  through.  This  prompts  me  to  a  desire  to  be  useful  to  you  if 
possible,  and  to  give  you  my  experience  of  the  last  season  among  the 
ice,  whither  you  are  bound. 

Your  cruise  will  be  an  arduous  one,  no  matter  how  you  may  be 
enlightened  on  your  course ;  but  you  have  so  much  knowledge  of  the 
ice,  and  the  manner  of  treating  it,  that  it  appears  almost  presumptuous 
in  me  to  sit  down  to  give  you  any  hints  relative  to  it.  But,  believing 
as  I  do,  that  the  ice  of  the  Antarctic  is  of  a  totally  different  character 
from  that  of  the  Arctic,  I  venture  to  offer  you  a  few  hints  that  may  be 
useful  to  you  in  your  undertaking ;  and  although  my  instructions  are 
binding  upon  me  relative  to  discoveries,  I  am  nevertheless  aware  that 
I  am  acting  as  my  government  would  order,  if  they  could  have  anti- 
cipated the  case,  knowing  how  deeply  it  feels  the  liberal  assistance  and 
great  interest  evinced  by  all  the  societies  and  distinguished  men  of 
Great  Britain,  to  promote  and  aid  this,  our  first  undertaking  in  the 
great  cause  of  science  and  usefulness ;  and  I  must  add  the  pleasure  it 
gives  to  me  personally,  to  be  able  to  return,  though  in  a  small  degree, 
the  great  obligation  I  myself  feel  under  to  you,  and  many  others,  the 
promoters  of  your  undertaking. 

WINDS. — The  winds  for  the  first  fortnight  of  our  time,  to  the  east- 
ward of  longitude  140°  E.,  were  from  the  northward  and  westward, 
light  generally,  accompanied  occasionally  with  clear  weather  for  hours, 
and  again  with  dense  fogs  of  short  duration,  with  a  long  swell  from 
the  same  quarter. 

57 


454  APPENDIX. 

After  passing  longitude  140°  E.,  or  to  the  westward  of  it,  we  ex- 
perienced fine  weather,  with  southeast  winds  and  occasional  snow- 
squalls,  lasting  but  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  and  a  dry  healthy  atmo- 
sphere. 

The  barometer,  during  our  stay  on  the  coast,  was  always  indicative 
of  wind  by  its  depression,  and  was  a  true  guide.  Its  mean  standing 
was  28  in.  The  temperature  surprised  me :  we  seldom,  if  ever,  had 
it  above  30°,  even  in  the  sun  at  mid-day,  and  I  do  not  think  that  three 
times  it  was  found  above  35°. 

Gales  come  on  very  suddenly,  and  are  always  attended  with  snow, 
sleet,  and  thick  fogs,  rendering  it  extremely  hazardous;  for  one  must 
be  found,  when  they  do  come,  more  or  less  surrounded  with  ice- 
islands.  They  sometimes  last  for  thirty-six  hours.  After  they  set  in, 
you  may  calculate  that  they  will  blow  strong  for  at  least  half  that 
time.  The  nearer  you  are  to  the  land,  the  more  violent  they  are, 
though  not  of  such  long  duration.  Fine  weather  usually  precedes 
them,  and  we  found  them  to  happen  and  the  weather  to  be  more 
changeable  near  the  full  and  change,  although  I  am  no  believer  in  the 
lunar  influences  upon  the  weather. 

CURRENTS. — During  the  whole  of  our  stay  along  the  icy  coast,  we 
found  no  perceptible  current  by  the  reckoning  and  current  log.  During 
a  gale  of  wind  I  was  induced  to  believe  that  some  existed,  from  the 
short  sea  that  was  formed,  thinking  there  was  more  than  was  to  be 
expected.  Tides  on  such  an  extent  of  coast  there  undoubtedly  must 
be,  but  of  little  strength,  or  we  should  have  perceived  them. 

In  many  of  the  icy  bays  we  were  stationary  for  a  sufficient  time  to 
perceive  them  if  they  had  been  of  any  magnitude,  and  where  the 
current  was  repeatedly  tried. 

The  winds  have  their  effect  upon  the  loose  drift-ice,  or  that  which  is 
detached  from  the  icy  barrier.  Owing  to  a  change  of  wind  from 
southeast  to  north,  with  a  fresh  breeze,  the  Peacock  became  embayed, 
and  the  ice  forced  in  upon  her,  which  brought  about  the  accident. 
The  northerly  winds  are  always  accompanied  with  a  heavy  swell,  and 
her  escape  is  attributable  to  a  rare  exercise  of  good  seamanship  and 
perseverance.  If  Captain  Hudson's  ship  had  been  as  strong  as  adamant 
itself,  he  is  of  opinion  she  would  have  been  ground  to  atoms  by  a  longer 
exposure ;  her  stem  was  abraded  to  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the 
wood-ends. 

There  are  places  in  which  the  barrier  is  within  the  floe-ice  several 
miles.  I  enclose  you  the  mean  temperature  during  the  summer 
months. 

You  will  see  there  is  but  little  chance  of  the  ice  melting  or  disap- 


APPENDIX.  455 

pearing,  as  from  accounts  frequently  takes  place  in  the  Arctic  Ocean. 
Your  time,  being  unlimited,  will  allow  you  to  wait  some  days  in  a 
situation  to  make  experiments. 

I  frequently  found  myself  so  closely  beset  that  I  thought  it  next  to 
impossible  to  escape,  and  if  the  wind  had  not  been  extremely  constant 
in  its  direction,  I  should  have  been  shut  up  or  much  injured ;  as  it 
was,  I  escaped  with  scarcety  a  scratch,  although  we  took  some  heavy 
thumps. 

The  charts  will  show  you  the  tracks  and  state  of  the  ice.  It  was 
constructed  as  I  went  on,  and  the  ice-islands  laid  down  by  carefully- 
kept  diagrams  by  the  officer  of  the  deck  during  his  watch.  This  I 
found  gave  me  more  confidence  in  proceeding,  and  facilities  in  case  of 
having  to  return. 

MAGNETIC  POLE. — I  consider  we  have  approached  very  near  to  the 
pole.  Our  dip  was  87°  30'  S.,  and  the  compasses  on  the  ice  very 
sluggish ;  this  was  in  longitude  147°  30'  E.,  and  latitude  67°  04'  S. 
Our  variation,  as  accurately  as  it  could  be  observed  on  the  ice,  we 
made  12°  30'  E.  It  was  difficult  to  get  a  good  observation,  on  account 
of  the  sluggishness  of  our  compasses.  About  one  hundred  miles  to  the 
westward,  we  crossed  the  magnetic  meridian. 

The  pole,  without  giving  you  accurate  deductions,  I  think  my  obser- 
vations will  place  in  about  latitude  70°  S.,  and  longitude  140°  E. 

On  the  meridian  of  140°  E.,  you  will  find  a  small  bay,  partly  formed 
by  ice-islands  and  rocks,  which  I  have  named  Piner's  Bay,  and  I  think 
among  the  rocks  you  may  find  a  snug  little  harbour.  I  was  driven 
out  of  the  bay  by  a  gale  of  wind  ;  sounding  about  one  and  a  half 
miles  from  the  shore  in  thirty  fathoms.  The  icebergs  being  aground, 
form  good  shelters ;  but  I  was  too  much  exposed  to  venture  to  remain, 
and  my  object  was  to  trace  the  land  and  the  icy  barrier,  which  I  have 
done,  as  you  will  see  it  laid  down  on  my  chart. 

We  had  delightful  arid  clear  weather  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  along 
the  coast,  with  the  wind  at  from  southeast  to  south-southwest;  the  two 
latter  points  particularly.  The  drift-ice  is  in  large  pieces,  so  large  as 
to  give  a  ship  an  awkward  thump;  but  when  I  found  it  tolerably  open 
I  have  run  through  it  to  get  to  clear  water,  and  in  hopes  of  making  the 
land,  but  our  progress  was  soon  stopped  by  the  firm  barrier,  impene- 
trable, through  which  llicrc  is  no  passing. 

I  am  of  opinion  that  there  is  little  movement  of  the  ice  during  the 
season.  Strong  gales  may  change  its  position  a  trifle,  but  I  think  not 
materially. 

The  only  prospect  of  nearing  the  land  is  through  a  sen  well  studded 
with  largo  icebergs,  nearly  thirty  or  forty  miles  in  width;  and  I 


456  APPENDIX. 

generally  found  that  \ve  got  nearer  to  the  shore  in  those  places  than 
elsewhere.  One  thing  I  must  tell  you,  as  respects  filling  your  water : 
you  will  sometimes  find  a  pond  of  delicious  water  on  the  top  of  an  old 
iceberg,  frozen  over,  but  on  cutting  through  it  you  will  see  a  supply 
sufficient  for  a  navy.  It  will  save  you  fuel,  and  discomfort  and  cold 
to  you,  your  vessels,  and  their  crews. 

I  was  very  fortunate  in  the  weather  the  latter  part  of  the  time ;  and 
indeed  altogether  I  was  scarcely  a  day  without  some  observation, 
(except  during  the  gales,  of  which  we  had  three,  occupying  about 
eight  days,)  and  generally  half  a  dozen. 

My  time  for  six  weeks  was  passed  on  deck,  and  having  all  day- 
light, I  of  course  had  constant  employment,  and  with  the  many 
assistants,  I  could  make  rapid  progress ;  and  you  will  find  that  no 
opportunity  ought  to  be  lost  in  this  navigation,  if  one  is  to  do  any 
thing.  One's  ship  is  in  constant  danger,  and  the  Vincennes,  a  first- 
class  sloop  of  seven  hundred  and  eighty  tons,  it  requires  all  the  fore- 
sight and  activity  one  is  possessed  of  to  look-out  for  her. 

I  consider  that  I  have  had  a  most  providential  escape ;  and  if  this 
ship  had  not  been  enabled  to  "  do  every  thing  but  talk,"  I  should  not 
have  been  where  I  now  am  ;  but  she  had  inspired  me  with  so  much 
confidence,  among  the  coral  reefs  last  summer,  that  I  could  put  full 
faith  in  her  doing  her  duty.  I  must  refer  you  to  the  chart,  on  which  I 
have  noted  remarks,  variations,  &c. 

I  should  have  mentioned,  that  in  1838  and  1839  I  went  south  in 
the  brig  Porpoise,  in  order  to  trace  Palmer's  Land  on  its  eastern  side, 
(but  too  late  for  any  trial  to  reach  high  latitudes,)  and  hoping  that  the 
lateness  of  the  season  would  enable  me  to  run  some  distance  along  it. 
I  got  within  three  miles  of  the  coast,  and  saw  it  trending  to  the  south- 
southeast  about  thirty  miles ;  but  it  was  so  blocked  up  with  ice  as  to 
render  it  impossible  to  get  through.  I  have  little  doubt  myself,  in 
favourable  seasons,  Weddell's  track  may  be  followed,  notwithstanding 
what  the  Frenchman  may  say,  there  being  no  land  to  which  the  ice  is 
attached  ;  and  that  the  ice  in  those  parts  changes  very  much,  the 
currents  being  exceedingly  strong,  as  I  myself  witnessed.  I  could  not 
afford  the  time  to  be  frozen  up,  as  my  other  duties  were  and  are 
paramount  to  passing  the  winter  in  such  a  situation.  But  you  are 
differently  situated,  and  I  should  advise  you,  by  all  means,  to  try  to 

penetrate  between  longitude  35°  and  45°  W. 

I  am,  &c., 

CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition 
To  CAPTAIN  JAMES  C.  Ross, 

Commanding  II.  B.  M.  Ships  Erebus  and  Terror. 


APPENDIX.  457 

XXV. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Sydney  Cove,  Dec.  23d,  1839. 
SIR, — 

The  following  instructions  will  claim  your  particular  attention 
during  our  contemplated  Antarctic  cruise. 

1st.  It  cannot  be  too  strongly  impressed  upon  you  the  necessity  to 
use  every  means  in  your  power  to  avoid  a  separation,  as  the  lives  of 
those  entrusted  to  your  particular  care,  and  those  comprising  the 
squadron,  may  be  jeoparded  by  it. 

2d.  The  most  careful  attention  must  be  given  by  you  to  the  health 
and  comfort  of  your  crew,  and  the  most  economical  care  and  expen- 
diture of  your  stores  and  provisions.  The  greatest  attention  to  the 
cleanliness  and  airing  of  the  vessels,  and  the  drying  of  the  clothes  and 
bedding  to  avoid  all  dampness  and  foul  air,  are  likewise  essential. 

In  the  event  of  your  being  frozen  up  or  detained  by  the  ice,  your 
responsibilities  will  be  great,  and  every  precaution  must  be  taken  to 
insure  your  safety.  You  may  rest  assured  that  every  exertion  will  be 
made  to  relieve  you  at  the  earliest  possible  day. 

I  now  give  you  a  short  sketch  of  what  I  deem  to  be  the  principal 
object  of  our  cruise  towards  the  Antarctic  Circle :  first,  to  reach  as 
high  a  southern  latitude  as  can  be  attained,  without  hazarding  the 
safety  of  your  vessel  and  crew ;  and  last,  to  make  all  the  observations 
that  rny  former  instructions  have  pointed  out,  including  the  dip  and 
intensity. 

In  the  event  of  parting  company,  you  will  rendezvous,  first,  at 
Macquarie  Island,  if  it  should  occur  before  reaching  its  latitude,  where 
you  will  remain  forty-eight  hours,  off  and  on ;  thence  proceed  to  the 
Emerald  Isle,  waiting  on  and  off  thirty-six  hours,  and  from  thence  to 
the  south  as  far  as  the  ice  will  permit,  and  continue  cruising  along  its 
borders,  between  the  longitude  of  160°  E.  and  105°  E.,  until  the  1st 
of  March,  at  which  period  it  is  deemed  the  season  will  become  too 
far  advanced  to  proceed  south  with  any  chance  of  success. 

On  your  return,  you  will  proceed  to  the  Bay  of  Islands,  New 
Zealand,  where  you  will  await  my  arrival,  or  find  orders  with  the 
American  consul,  resident  there. 

If  the  Lord  Auckland  Group  should  lay  in  your  path  on  your  return, 
you  will  find  a  secure  harbour  in  that  of  Sarah's  Bosom,  in  latitude 
50°  38'  S.,  longitude  166°  16'  E. 

On  your  return,  you  will  vary  your  route  as  much  as  possible,  or  as 
the  weather  and  stale  of  your  vessel  will  permit. 


458  APPENDIX. 

In  case  you  should  not  be  able  to  reach  the  Bay  of  Islands,  prior  to 
the  25th  of  March,  you  will  thence  make  for  the  island  of  Tonga- 
taboo,  Friendly  Group,  where  you  will  find  me  or  orders  directing 
your  further  movements.  (If  no  intelligence  before  the  15th  of  April, 
you  will  then  proceed  to  the  Feejce  Group  of  Islands,  Harbour  of 
Takanova,  or  Sandalwood  Bay,  and  there  continue  to  employ  your- 
self making  the  various  surveys  directed  in  the  copy  of  the  instruc- 
tions.) 

Leave  letters  where  you  may  stop,  and  place  signal  No.  2  on  a 
conspicuous  spot ;  No.  1  will  represent  the  Vincennes,  No.  3  the 
Porpoise,  and  No.  4  the  Flying-Fish. 

In  the  event  of  your  penetrating  the  ice,  with  the  prospect  of  a 
clear  sea  before  you,  you  will  steer  to  the  westward,  bearing  in  mind 
that  the  only  prospect  of  again  clearing  it  is  on  the  route  you  first 
followed,  or  that  supposed  to  have  been  taken  by  Weddell,  between 
the  longitude  of  35°  and  49°  W. 

On  clearing  it,  you  will  proceed  to  carry  out  the  foregoing  instruc- 
tions, to  make  the  appointed  rendezvous  with  the  least  possible  delay. 

(It  is  my  intention,  if  I  am  not  detained  by  ice,  to  reach  the  harbour 
of  Sandalwood  Bay,  in  the  Feejee  Group,  in  April,  and  after  exami- 
ning those  islands,  to  proceed  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  for  provisions 
early  in  July.  I  state  this  that  you  may  govern  yourself  accordingly, 
in  the  event  of  your  not  being  able  to  meet  me  or  the  Peacock  at  any 
of  the  rendezvous  pointed  out.  Should  you  fall  in  with  the  Peacock, 
Captain  Hudson  will  give  you  the  necessary  instructions.) 
I  am,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)          CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

The  foregoing  instructions  were  sent  to  Captain  Hudson.  To 
Lieutenants-Commandant  Ringgold  and  Pinkney,  without  the  clause 
in  parenthesis. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  December  29th,  1839. 

SIR, — 

The  following  observations  and  duties  will  be  attended  to  on  board 

o 

the  Flying-Fish,  under  your  command,  during  her  present  cruise  to 
the  Antarctic  Ocean : 

1st.  You  will  keep  a  daily  journal  of  every  occurrence  of  interest. 

2d.  Your  route  will  be  daily  laid  down  upon  the  skeleton  chart; 


APPENDIX. 


459 


also,  the  position  of  all  land,  islands  of  ice,  &c.,  which  you  may  fall  in 
with.  Astronomical  bearings  will  be  taken  when  the  weather  will  permit. 

3d.  You  will  note  in  your  journal  the  variation  of  the  compass,  daily, 
sketches  of  refractions,  and  appearances  of  ice-islands  and  formations. 

4th.  You  will  obtain,  if  possible,  and  preserve  any  stones,  specimens 
of  earth,  &c.,  from  the  ice,  and  note  the  appearances  of  any  halos, 
aurora  australis,  (fee. 

5th.  The  observations,  &c.,  required  in  the  General  Order  of  the  25th 
August,  1838,  will  be  attended  to,  when  practicable,  excepting  those  of 
the  barometer  and  hygrometer,  and  the  observations  of  the  masthead. 
I  am,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)         CHARLES  WILKES, 

To  LIEUT.  COM.  PINKNEY,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Schooner  Flying-Fish. 

XXVI. 

BAROMETRICAL   OBSERVATIONS    DURING   THE    GALES   OF    WIND    EXPERIENCED   BY 
U.  S.  SHIP  VINCENNES,  JAN.  28TH,  29TH,  30TH,  31sT,  AND  FEB.   1ST  AND  2D. 


DATE. 

HOUR. 

BAROMETER. 

REMARKS. 

1840. 

A.  M. 

P.  M. 

JAN.  28TH, 
U 

3 
9 

3 
1030 

29-50  in. 
29-40 
29-24 
29-10 
28-90 

Light  snow  ;  S.  E.  by  S.  fresh. 
Wind  fresh  from  S.  E.  by  S.,  cloudy. 
Wind  quite  fresh  S.  E.  by  S.,  light  snow. 
Wind  blowing  a  gale  from  S.  E.,  snow. 

29TH, 

1  30 
230 

28-79 
28-68 

11 

3 

28-68 

U 

4 

28-59 

« 

445 

28-57 

u 

U 

6 
9 

28-57 
28-68 

Weather  was  pleasant  the  remainder  of 
29th. 

« 

10 

28-67 

H 

11 

28-78 

30TH, 

9 
11 

29-16 
29-10 

At  3  A.  M.  of  the  30th,  the  Barometer  rose 

H 

12 

1 

29-04 
29-00 

to  29-16  in.,  and  remained  at  that  point 
several  hours. 

H 

2 

28-98 

11 

3 

28-91 

U 

4 

28-90 

U 

5 

28-90 

H 

6 

28-88 

« 

7 

28-82 

M 

8 

28-80 

u 

9 

28-80 

« 

10 

28-76 

u 

11 

28-76 

H 

12 

28-74 

.460 


APPENDIX. 


X  X  V  I.  —  CONTINUED- 


DATE. 

HOUR. 

BAROMETER. 

HOUR. 

BAROMETER. 

1840. 

A.   M. 

P.   H. 

JAN.  31ST, 

1 

28-72  in. 

1 

28-60  in. 

" 

2 

28-72 

2 

28-60 

u 

3 

28-73 

3 

28-60 

" 

4 

28-70 

4 

28-60 

" 

5 

28-70 

5 

28-60 

U 

6 

6 

28-60 

" 

730 

28-68 

7 

28-60 

tl 

8 

8 

28-66 

" 

9 

28-62 

9 

28-70 

u 

10 

28-60 

10 

28-70 

II 

11 

28-60 

11 

28-70 

u 

12 

28-60 

12 

28-70 

FEB.  1ST, 

2 

28-72 

ti 

3 

28-73 

3 

28-90 

U 

4 

28-73 

II 

5 

28-73 

u 

9 

28-76 

9 

29-00 

FEB.  2D, 

3 

29-12 

2 

29-3] 

(i 

9 

29-25 

3 

29-31 

U 

11 

29-30 

7 

29-35 

(> 

12 

29'32 

9 

29-37 

II 

1030 

29-300 

u 

12 

29-210 

XXVII. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  January  31st,  1840. 


SIR, — 

It  becomes  my  duty,  in  consequence  of  the  report  of  the  assistant- 
surgeons  of  this  ship  (a  copy  of  which  is  enclosed),  relative  to  the 
health  and  condition  of  the  crew  of  this  ship,  to  restore  you  to  duty 
for  their  benefit,  and  to  obtain  all  the  medical  advice  in  my  power  to 
enable  me  to  carry  out  the  instructions  of  the  government. 

You  will,  after  due  examination  and  consideration,  relative  to  the 
health  and  condition  of  the  crew,  report  to  me  in  writing,  your 
opinion  in  regard  to  the  same. 

I  am,  very  respectfully, 
Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)          CHARLES  WILKES, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 
DR.  EDWARD  GILCHRIST, 

Acting  Surgeon,  Vincennes. 


APPENDIX.  461 

U.  S.  Ship  Vinccnnes, 

At  Sea,  January  31st,  1840. 
SIR, 

I  have  received  your  letter  of  this  date,  restoring  me  to  duty, 
enclosing  a  report  of  the  assistant- surgeons  of  this  ship,  and  directing 
me  after  due  examination  and  consultation  relative  to  the  health  and 
condition  of  the  crew,  to  report  to  you  in  writing  my  opinion  in 
regard  to  the  same. 

In  obedience  to  that  order,  I  respectfully  report  that,  in  my  opinion, 
the  health  of  the  crew  is  materially  affected  by  the  severe  fatigue, 
want  of  sleep,  and  exposure  to  the  weather,  to  which  they  have  lately 
been  subjected ;  that  a  continuance  of  these  hardships,  even  for  a  very 
short  period,  will  entirely  disqualify  a  great  number  of  men  for  their 
duty ;  and  that  the  necessary  attention  to  the  health  of  the  crew,  and 
their  future  efficiency  and  usefulness,  demand  the  immediate  return  of 
the  ship  to  a  mild  climate. 

I  am,  very  respectfully, 

EDWARD  GILCHRIST, 

CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ.,  Acting  Surgeon. 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  January  31st,  1840. 

Sra,— 

In  answer  to  your  letter  of  this  date,  enclosing  the  report  of  the 
medical  officers  on  the  present  state  of  the  health  of  the  crew,  and 
requesting  the  opinion  of  the  ward-room  officers,  as  to  the  expediency 
of  pushing  farther  south  under  the  present  circumstances,  we  would 
state,  that,  in  our  opinion,  it  would  be  as  well  to  hold  on  until  to- 
morrow at  meridian,  in  order,  should  the  weather  then  prove  more 
favourable,  to  attempt  making  the  recently  discovered  land  at  another 
point ;  but  that  on  a  material  increase  of  the  sick-list,  or  continuance 
of  the  present  bad  weather  beyond  the  above  period,  we  should  run  to 
the  northward.  We  are,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servants, 

(Signed)          OVERTON  CARR, 

First  Lieutenant. 
'  A.  LTJDLOW  CASE, 
JOSEPH  A.  UNDERWOOD, 

Lieutenants. 

EDMUND  H.  DE  HAVEN, 
SAMUEL  R.  KNOX, 

To  CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ.,  Acting  Masters 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

VOL.  ii.  58 


462  APPENDIX. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  January  31st,  1840. 
SIR, — 

In  answer  to  your  communication  of  to-day,  addressed  to  the  ward- 
room officers,  calling  upon  them  for  their  opinion  with  regard  to  the 
practicability  of  our  prosecuting  the  desirable  researches  in  these 
latitudes,  I  am  of  opinion,  with  due  regard  to  the  report  of  the 
medical  officers,  which  you  have  submitted  for  our  perusal,  that  it  is 
very  desirable  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  the  recently  discovered  land, 
by  another  attempt  to  the  westward ;  provided,  of  course,  this  object 
can  be  attained  without  further  endangering  the  health  of  the  crew. 

Very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)       JAMES  ALDEN. 
CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ., 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  January  31st,  1840. 
SIR, — 

In  answer  to  your  letter,  with  the  report  of  the  medical  officers 
enclosed,  requesting  the  opinion  of  the  ward-room  officers  of  this  ship, 
as  to  the  expediency  under  the  present  circumstances  of  prosecuting 
our  discoveries  south  at  this  time,  I  beg  leave  to  state,  that  in  my 
opinion  the  report  of  all  the  medical  officers  of  the  ship,  as  to  the 
reduced  condition  of  the  crew,  would  be  a  sufficient  reason  for  putting 
back  ;  and,  in  addition,  I  would  state  other  reasons  which  occur  to  me. 

We  have  been  almost  surrounded  with  drift-ice  and  ice-islands  for 
the  last  twenty-three  days,  and  coasting  along  the  barrier  of  field-ice, 
which  has  rendered  it  impossible  to  penetrate  further  south  in  this 
vicinity ;  and,  although  gratifying  it  would  be  to  land  upon  the 
Antarctic  Continent,  I  am  not  aware  that  any  advantages  to  be 
derived  from  it  would  be  commensurate  for  the  dangers  it  would  be 
necessary  to  incur ;  and  if  the  discovery  of  new  land  in  these  regions 
is  important,  I  consider  it  equally  so  that  every  precaution  be  taken  to 
communicate  the  same  to  others. 

Farther,  in  my  opinion,  the  continuance  of  the  severe  gale  which 
we  have  encountered  for  the  last  five  days,  accompanied  with  sleet, 
hail,  and  snow,  and  the  necessity  of  keeping  all  hands  on  the  watch, 
owing  to  the  thick  weather,  &c.,  and  difficulty  of  navigating  among 
ice,  makes  it  not  only  most  dangerous,  but,  if  necessary  to  be  con- 
tinued in,  will  render  the  wratch  officers  and  crew  unfit  for  the  arduous 


APPENDIX. 

duties  now  and  hereafter  required  of  them,  at  a  time  when  the  ship 
and  rigging  are  enveloped  in  ice. 

In  fact,  I  am  of  opinion,  that  the  future  operations  should  not  be 
hazarded  by  encountering  dangers  and  risks  to  be  run,  under  all  the 
circumstances,  greater  than  I  have  ever  encountered  in  the  course  of 
seven  years'  sea  service. 

In  expressing,  however,  finally  and  respectfully,  my  opinions,  I  most 
cheerfully  yield  to  those  of  more  experience  and  skill,  if  they  do  not 
concur  with  mine. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)       R.  R.  WALDRON, 

Purser  U.  S.  Navy. 
CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ., 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  January  31st,  1840. 
SIR, — 

In  reply  to  your  communication  of  this  date,  addressed  to  the  ward- 
room officers  of  this  ship,  I  would  state,  that  I  think  that  it  would  be 
advisable  to  remain  in  this  vicinity  at  least  two  days  longer,  and  if 
possible,  get  farther  information  respecting  the  recently  discovered 
land.  At  the  expiration  of  the  above  mentioned  time,  if  the  stormy 
weather  we  have  experienced  should  continue,  or  the  number  of  sick 
be  increased,  I  think  it  would  be  expedient  to  bear  up  to  the  north- 
ward. In  expressing  this  opinion,  I  am  sensible  of  the  hardship  and 
danger  to  which  the  officers  and  men  are  exposed,  but  I  am  also  pre- 
pared to  share  the  same  with  them  in  any  manner  you  may  dictate. 

Respectfully,  yours, 

(Signed)         JARED  ELLIOTT. 
CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ., 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


464 


APPENDIX. 


XXVIII. 

BAROMETER  AND  DAILY  MEAN  OF  TEMPERATURE  OF  AIR  AND  WATER,  DURING 
THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  SHIP  VINCENNES,  NEAR  THE  ANTARCTIC  CIRCLE,  IN 
JANUARY  AND  FEBRUARY,  1840. 


DATE. 

BAROH. 

AIR. 

WATER. 

DATE. 

BAROH. 

AIR. 

WATER. 

JAN.  11 

29-36  in. 

32-45° 

31-29° 

FEB.  1 

28-85  in. 

30-75° 

29-50° 

12         28-97    • 

32-45 

30-00 

2 

29-26 

32-45 

29.41 

13         28-87 

32-45 

30-45 

3 

28-74 

32-04 

31-33 

14         29-17 

32-37 

31-74 

4 

28-50 

32-80 

32-75 

15         28-87 

32-95 

31-16 

5 

29-23 

32-58 

32-62 

16         28-68 

33-95 

30-50 

6 

29-21 

31-17 

32-75 

17         28-84 

30-95 

31-20 

7 

29-00 

31-00 

31-90 

18         28-87 

32-52 

31-75 

8 

29-14 

32-16 

31-75 

19         28-77 

32-48 

31-26 

9 

29-19 

32-18 

31-50 

20         28-91 

31-70 

32-04 

10 

29-08 

31-83 

31-75 

21          29-02 

34-56 

31-09 

11 

29-08 

30-12 

30-00 

22         29-03 

25-18 

30-63 

12 

29-15 

29-00 

30-03 

23         29-04 

26-16 

30-45 

13 

29-08 

27-75 

30-20 

24         29-15 

26-37            30-75             14 

29-15 

25-29 

29-90 

25 

29-22 

23-04            28-45 

15         29-28 

27-00 

30-80 

26 

29-06 

25-69            29-00 

16         29-33 

26-58 

30-20 

27         29-29 

26-40            28-91             17         29-16 

28-79 

30-00 

28         29-31 

25-91            28-87             18         28-91 

28-58 

30-00 

29         28-88 

28-75            29-00 

19          28-76 

30-12 

30-75 

30         29-00 

26-04            28-75            20         28-97 

28-00 

30-62 

31         28-66 

29-00            29-00            21          29-06 

29-08 

31-70 

22          28-89 

32-22 

32-50 

23 

35-25 

35-45 

24 

36-08 

34-82 

XXIX. 

[Copy.] 

U.  S.  Ship  Peacock, 

Sydney,  New  South  Wales, 

March  3d,  1840. 
SIR, — 

I  have  the  honour  to  report  the  arrival  of  the  Peacock  at  this  port, 
for  the  purpose  of  making  such  few  repairs  as  have  become  necessary, 
preparatory  to  the  further  prosecution  of  the  objects  of  the  Expedition, 
and  avail  myself  of  the  occasion  to  say,  that  in  our  recent  adventures 
south,  we  fell  in  with  a  barrier  of  ice  in  the  latitude  of  65°  S.,  and 
longitude  159°  E.,  and  had  followed  its  trendings  as  far  as  67°  S., 
longitude  150°  E. 


APPENDIX.  465 

On  Sunday,  January  19th,  while  standing  into  a  bay  of  ice,  in  lati- 
tude 66°  31'  S.,  and  longitude  153°  40'  E.,  we  made  (what  we  believed 
to  be)  land  to  the  southward  and  westward. 

It  was  seen  towering  above  and  beyond  some  large  icebergs,  that 
were  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height.  We 
endeavoured  to  work  up  for  this  land,  which  presented  the  appearance 
of  an  immense  mass  of  snow,  apparently  forming  a  vast  amphitheatre, 
with  two  distinct  ridges  or  elevations  throughout  its  extent.  After 
working  up  until  midnight  through  detached  portions  of  ice,  we 
reached  the  barrier  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  were  compelled  to 
give  up  any  further  attempt  to  near  it,  (what  we  believed  to  be  land,) 
and  passed  out  of  the  bay  again,  which  was  some  twenty  miles  in 
extent,  through  drift-ice,  into  a  more  open  space  for  pursuing  our 
course  to  the  southward  and  westward  along  the  barrier. 

On  the  23d  of  January  we  made,  beyond  the  barrier,  which  was 
thickly  studded  with  bergs  and  islands  of  ice,  (what  we  believed  it  to 
be,)  high  land,  at  least  so  far  as  terra  firma  can  be  distinguished  where 
every  thing  is  covered  with  snow,  and  worked  into  a  bay  for  a  nearer 
and  more  minute  examination.  The  sea-water  had  been  discoloured 
for  some  days,  but  no  bottom  obtained  by  soundings  ;  in  the  bay,  how- 
ever, it  changed  to  a  dark  dull  green,  and  gave  every  indication  that 
we  were  on  soundings,  and  not  far  from  land. 

The  result  confirmed  the  appearances:  we  obtained  bottom  in  three 
hundred  and  twenty  fathoms,  of  slate-coloured  mud,  and  the  lead 
brought  up  with  it  a  piece  of  stone,  about  an  inch  in  length,  of  nearly 
the  same  colour,  while  the  lower  part  of  the  lead  showed  a  fresh  and 
deep  indentation,  as  though  it  had  struck  on  a  rock.  Dip  observations 
were  made  on  the  ice  with  Robinson's  and  Lloyd's  needles ;  the 
former  gave  86-10°,  the  latter  86-23°. 

While  ascertaining  the  dip,  a  large  king-penguin  was  captured  on 
the  ice,  and  brought  to  the  ship;  to  add  to  our  collections,  in  his 
stomach  were  found  thirty-two  pebbles  of  various  sizes,  which  ap- 
peared to  have  been  very  recently  obtained,  and  afforded  additional 
evidence  of  our  immediate  proximity  to  land. 

While  further  pursuing  the  object  of  our  search  in  this  vicinity,  on 
the  morning  of  the  24th,  arid  endeavouring  to  clear  some  ice  ahead  of 
us,  the  ship  made  a  sternboard,  and  came  in  contact  with  a  large 
piece  of  ice,  which  carried  away  one  of  the  wheel-ropes,  wrenched 
the  neck  of  the  rudder,  and  rendered  it  useless. 

We  immediately  commenced  working  ship  with  the  sails  and  ice- 
anchors  into  a  more  open  sea.  In  this  we  were  successful  for  a  time, 
until  an  increase  of  wind,  and  a  change  in  its  direction,  brought  in 


466  APPENDIX. 

upon  us  masses  of  ice  for  miles  in  extent,  which  completely  beset  the 
ship,  finished  the  work  of  destruction  on  our  rudder,  and  forced  us  into 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  an  ice-island  some  seven  or  eight  miles 
in  extent,  with  an  elevation  equalling  our  topgallant-masthead,  and  its 
upper  portion  inclining  towards  the  ship.  In  this  situation  we  furled  all 
but  the  fore-and-aft  sails,  and  hung  by  our  ice-anchors.  Fortunately, 
between  us  and  a  portion  of  this  island,  lay  a  larger  piece  of  ice,  one 
end  of  which  held  us  by  the  counter,  until  forced  beyond  it  by  the 
pressing  masses  of  ice  outside,  which  started  our  anchors,  and  set  us 
stern  on  to  the  island,  carrying  away  our  spanker-boom  and  stern- 
davits,  and  forcing  the  starboard  quarter-deck  bulwarks  in  end  some 
three  or  four  inches,  jamming  a  signal-gun  hard  and  fast  in  the  gang- 
way, and  breaking  off  all  the  bulwark  stanchions  on  that  side  of  the 
quarter-deck.  We  took  this  occasion  to  cant  her,  with  the  jib,  into  a 
narrow  channel  alongside  the  island,  and  with  the  help  of  other  sails, 
passed  by  a  portion  of  it  without  further  injury  to  our  spars,  until  an 
opportunity  presented  of  forcing  her  into  a  small  opening  in  the  ice, 
with  the  head  towards  the  sea. 

Our  rudder,  which  we  unshipped  and  got  in  upon  deck  while  wedged 
in  the  ice,  came  in  over  the  side  in  two  pieces,  the  head  and  neck 
entirely  broken  off,  with  the  two  midship  pintles,  and  we  shortly  after- 
wards found  the  upper  and  lower  braces  gone  from  the  stern-post. 

Towards  midnight  the  sea  was  increasing,  accompanied  with  snow, 
with  every  indication  of  a  gale  from  seaward ;  and  the  ice,  with 
which  we  were  continually  in  contact,  or  actually  jammed,  more  for- 
midable in  character,  rapidly  accumulating  outside  of  us,  and  forming 
a  compact  mass.  I  found,  as  we  were  nearing  the  open  sea,  that  we 
had  been  carried  so  far  to  leeward  by  the  ice,  as  to  be  in  great  danger 
of  taking  up  our  last  residence  in  the  barrier,  amongst  bergs  and 
islands  of  ice.  There  was,  therefore,  no  choice  left  but  to  force  her 
out,  or  grind  and  thump  the  ship  to  pieces  in  the  attempt. 

Aided  by  a  kind  Providence,  we  reached  an  open  space  on  the 
morning  of  the  25th,  after  having  beat  off  the  gripe  of  the  ship,  &c., 
and  at  meridian  the  carpenters  had  so  far  secured  our  rudder  that  it 
was  again  shipped,  in  the  two  remaining  braces  left  on  the  stern-post. 

We  were  yet  surrounded  by  ice  and  icebergs,  in  a  bay  some  thirty 
miles  in  extent,  from  which  no  outlet  could  be  seen  from  the  masthead. 
At  midnight,  however,  we  found  a  passage,  about  half  a  mile  in  width, 
between  some  bergs  and  field-ice. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th,  having  reached  a  partially  clear  sea, 
and  thoroughly  turned  over  in  my  mind  the  state  of  the  ship,  with  the 
head  of  the  rudder  gone,  hanging  by  two  braces  only,  and  in  such  a 


APPENDIX.  4G7 

state  we  could  hardly  hope  to  have  it  answer  its  purpose,  through  the 
boisterous  weather  with  which  we  should  have  to  contend  before 
reaching  the  nearest  port,  and  its  utter  unfitness  for  further  cruising 
amongst  icebergs  and  near  ice,  through  the  foggy,  thick  weather,  and 
frequent  snows  to  which  those  latitudes  are  subject,  and  when  rapid 
evolutions  are  often  necessary,  in  which  the  rudder  must  perform  its 
part, — with  the  ship  considerably  strained,  her  starboard  spar-deck 
bulwarks  gone  as  far  as  the  gangway,  the  gripe  off  and  stern  muti- 
lated, and  the  further  fact  before  me,  that  the  other  vessels  of  the 
squadron  were  ranging  over  the  same  longitude,  with  directions  to 
leave  on  the  1st  of  March  for  surveying  operations  in  the  north;  that 
the  ship's  bottom  would  have  to  be  examined,  and  repairs  made  before 
leaving  another  port,  (which  would  occupy,  with  all  the  facilities  this 
quarter  of  the  world  affords,  at  least  four  weeks,)  during  which  time 
the  services  of  this  ship  would  be  lost  in  surveying  the  Feejee,  &c.,  I 
determined  to  proceed  at  once  to  Sydney,  expedite  as  much  as  pos- 
sible the  repairs  of  the  ship,  and  be  ready  at  the  earliest  moment  to 
co-operate  with  the  rest  of  the  squadron. 

The  Vincennes  was  seen  by  us  in  the  distance  on  the  19th,  and  the 
brig  Porpoise  on  the  23d  of  January. 

On  the  night  of  the  7th,  and  morning  of  the  8th  of  February,  we 
had  frequent  and  unusually  brilliant  displays  of  the  aurora  australis, 
one  of  which  made  its  first  appearance  in  the  southwest  portion  of  the 
horizon,  but  soon  diffused  its  beams  of  light  from  east  to  west,  throw- 
ing them  up  to  a  concentrated  point  in  the  zenith,  where  they  were 
attended  with  continued  quick  flashes,  resembling  heat  lightning,  and 
extending  over  about  a  third  part  of  the  heavens.  The  rays  or  beams 
of  light  composing  this  magnificent  spectacle,  varied  in  colour  from  a 
light  orange  to  tints  of  pale  red,  assuming  in  their  changes  hues  I 
should  in  vain  attempt  to  describe. 

During  intervals  of  the  brightest  flashes  in  the  zenith,  however,  they 
lost  their  distinctive  outlines,  and  mingled  in  the  glow  of  bright  twilight 
which  nearly  overspread  the  heavens. 

This  exhibition  was  to  us  so  perfectly  unique  and  strongly  marked 
in  character,  as  to  excite  the  attention  of  those  on  board  most  indif- 
ferent to  such  phenomena,  and  called  forth  from  all,  exclamations  of 
surprise  and  pleasure. 

The  ship's  compasses  were  minutely  examined  on  this  occasion,  but 
exhibited  no  symptoms  of  being  affected  by  the  presence  of  the  aurora. 
The  motion  of  the  ship,  however,  from  the  effect  of  the  sea  at  the  time, 
would  have  rendered  any  change  imperceptible,  if  the  disturbing  cause 
had  not  produced  an  oscillation  of  the  needle  beyond  four  or  five  degrees. 


APPENDIX. 


During  the  aurora,  a  single  squall  of  light  hail  passed  over  the  ship. 
After  a  rough  and  boisterous  passage  north,  we  anchored  within  the 
Heads  at  Sydney,  on  the  night  of  the  21st  of  February. 

The  officers  and  crew  have  all  enjoyed  good  health,  indeed,  we 
have  been  for  some  days  past  without  a  man  on  the  sick-list;  and  it 
affords  me  great  pleasure  again  to  bear  testimony  to  the  zeal  and 
efficiency  of  the  officers  and  men  in  the  performance  of  their  various 
duties. 

I  feel  quite  confident  we  shall  have  completed  our  repairs,  and  be 
ready  to  leave  Sydney,  in  about  three  weeks. 

I  am,  sir,  most  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)       WM.  L.  HUDSON, 

Commander. 
To  J.  K.  PAUL.DING,  ESQ., 

Secretary  of  the  Navy. 


U.  S.  Ship  Peacock, 

Sydney,  New  South  Wales, 

March  12th,  1840. 
SIR, — 

The  foregoing  report  was  prepared  for  the  Honourable  Secretary  of 
the  Navy,  immediately  after  my  arrival  in  port,  but  no  conveyance 
having  offered,  I  take  leave  to  address  it  to  you  as  commander  of  the 
squadron  ;  availing  myself  of  the  occasion  to  add,  that  we  fell  in  with 
the  first  ice,  on  our  passage  south,  in  the  latitude  of  61°  32'  S.,  longi- 
tude 161°  E.,  and  made  the  barrier  on  the  15th  of  January,  in  the 
latitude  of  05°  53'  S.,  longitude  159°  E.,  and  followed  its  trendings  as 
far  as  67°  S.,  and  150°  E. 

Our  compasses  were  at  the  time  exceedingly  sluggish,  and  gave  no 
evidence  of  the  ship  changing  her  position,  unless  kept  in  continual 
agitation  by  shaking. 

Immediately  after  my  arrival  at  this  port,  I  commenced  the  repairs 
of  the  Peacock,  which  are  now  so  far  advanced  that  I  shall  be  ready 
for  such  duties  as  you  may  assign  me  by  the  25th  of  the  present 
month. 

The  Peacock,  as  you  have  seen,  has  been  considerably  strained  ; 
and  we  have  found  on  examination  while  repairing,  that  after  her 
gripe  was  beaten  off,  the  ice  had  chafed  the  stem  to  within  one  inch 
and  a  half  of  the  wood-ends  of  the  planking. 

I  trust  my  efforts  to  carry  out  your  orders,  and  the  course  I  have 
pursued  in  returning  to  Sydney,  and  expediting  the  repairs  of  the  ship, 


APPENDIX.  469 

have  been  such  as  to  meet  your  approbation,  as  well  as  that  of  the 
Honourable  Secretary  of  the  Navy. 

I  am,  sir,  yours,  respectfully, 

(Signed)         WILLIAM  L.  HUDSON, 

Commander. 
CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ., 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


XXX. 

[Copy.] 

U.  S.  Brig  Porpoise, 

Bay  of  Islands,  New  Zealand. 

March  31st,  1840. 
SIR,— 

I  have  great  gratification  in  reporting  my  arrival  at  this  place  on 
the  night  of  the  26th  instant,  all  in  good  health  ;  and  respectfully 
report  the  following  results,  as  occurring  since  the  period  of  separating 
from  you. 

The  12th  of  January  was  consumed  in  diligent  search  and  endea- 
vours to  regain  :  failing  to  do  so,  I  proceeded  westerly.  At  10  p.  M., 
the  day  following,  I  entered  an  inlet  formed  by  the  barrier,  for  the 
purpose  of  making  a  close  examination  and  experimenting  on  dip. 

On  a  near  approach  to  the  margin,  numbers  of  Phocos  proboscidse 
were  seen  reposing :  I  succeeded  in  taking  a  pair,  the  skins  of  which 
were  subsequently  placed  on  board  the  Peacock. 

Very  lofty  ridges  of  ice,  and  the  loom  usual  over  high  land,  were 
visible  along  the  southern  horizon,  over  the  barrier.  The  compass  at 
the  time  being  very  sluggish,  showing  the  brig's  head  to  the  north, 
when  her  head  was  correctly  south. 

From  appearances  to  the  southward,  with  the  numerous  Phocse 
proboscidao,  I  was  strongly  impressed  with  the  belief  of  the  close 
approach  to  land. 

On  the  15th  the  water  was  much  discoloured,  casting  in  one  hundred 
and  fifty  fathoms  without  success.  Dense  fogs  and  snow  prevented 
further  examination.  I  fell  in  and  communicated  with  the  Peacock  on 
the  evening  of  the  15th,  having  her  in  sight  on  the  21st  and  22d. 

On  the  evening  of  the  16th,  strong  appearances  of  land  again  arose, 
in  corroboration  of  which  I  insert  an  extract  from  my  journal,  as  well 
as  the  remarks  from  the  log-book. 
VOL.  ii.  59 


470  APPENDIX. 


EXTRACT  FROM  JOURNAL. 

"  At  6h  30m  p.  M.  I  went  aloft  to  take  a  look,  the  weather  being  clear, 
horizon  good,  and  clouds  lofty.  I  heard  the  noise  of  a  penguin  ;  soon 
after,  one  was  seen  very  near  the  brig,  with  a  large  seal  to  windward. 
After  reaching  masthead,  I  saw  over  the  field  of  ice,  an  object,  large, 
dark,  and  rounding,  resembling  a  mountain  in  the  distance.  The  ice- 
bergs all  were  bright  and  brilliant,  and  in  great  contrast. 

"  I  watched  for  an  hour  to  see  if  the  sun  in  his  decline  would  change 
the  colour  of  the  object  by  a  difference  of  rays :  it  remained  the  same, 
with  a  white  cloud  above,  similar  to  those  generally  hovering  over 
high  land  ;  at  sunset  it  remained  the  same.  I  took  the  bearing  accu- 
rately, intending  to  examine  it  closely  as  soon  as  I  got  a  breeze.  I  am 
strongly  of  the  opinion  it  is  an  island,  surrounded  by  immense  fields  of 
ice  now  in  sight." 

EXTRACT  FROM  LOG. 

"  At  7  p.  M.  discovered  what  was  supposed  to  be  an  island,  bearing 
south-by-east, — a  great  deal  of  field-ice  in  sight. 

(Signed)         "  J.  H.  NORTH." 

17th,  the  indications  were  again  noticed,  corroborating  those  of  the 
day  preceding.  From  the  19th  to  the  21st,  I  was  not  in  sight  of  the 
barrier,  owing  to  adverse  winds  and  thick  weather.  On  the  afternoon 
of  the  last  date,  I  closed  in  again.  On  the  22d,  4  A.  M.,  appearances 
of  land  again  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  at  the  time  passing  an 
iceberg  with  dark  veins  and  dusty  appearances,  exciting  again  confi- 
dent hopes  of  soon  making  positive  discoveries. 

On  the  23d,  I  attained  the  parallel  of  66°  49'  S.,  151°  24'  E.,  by 
observation,  having  reached  the  southern  extreme  of  an  extensive  gulf, 
studded  with  islands  of  ice,  and  far  in  the  distance  to  the  southward 
high  and  lofty  bergs  w7ere  identified  and  entangled  in  the  main  barrier, 
rendering  our  advancement  one  step  further  impossible.  I  put  about, 
tried  dip,  and  retraced  my  steps,  exchanging  colours  with  Peacock  at 
2h  30m  p.  M.,  then  on  her  way  in. 

After  separating  from  you  on  the  27th,  I  proceeded  westward, 
keeping  the  barrier  close  to,  reluctantly  meeting  insuperable  obstacles 
in  every  effort  to  pass  the  Antarctic  Circle. 

On  the  28th,  I  experienced  a  heavy  gale  from  southeast  of  thirty-six 
hours,  with  snow  and  dense  fog,  rendering  my  situation  dangerous  in 


APPENDIX.  471 

the  extreme,  from  the  vast  numbers  of  icebergs,  and  quantities  of  floe 
and  drift-ice,  surrounding  the  brig  at  the  time. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  30th,  at  3h  45m,  a  ship  was  discovered 
ahead ;  at  3h  50m,  another  appeared  in  company  ;  being  in  latitude  64° 
52'  30"  S.,  and  longitude  135°  27'  E.  I  determined  to  speak  them: 
supposing  them  to  be  the  Vincennes  and  Peacock ;  at  4h  made  them 
out  to  be  standing  to  the  northward,  under  easy  sail,  and  discovered 
them  to  be  strangers ;  at  4h  30m  hoisted  our  colours,  knowing  that  an 
expedition  tinder  Captain  Ross  was  expected  in  these  seas,  I  took 
them  to  be  his  ships,  and  stood  ready  to  cheer  the  discoverer  of  the 
North  Magnetic  Pole.  At  4h  50™,  having  gained  considerably  upon 
them,  and  being  within  I  suppose  a  mile  and  a  half,  the  strangers 
showed  French  colours,  the  leeward  and  sternmost  displaying  a  broad 
pennant ;  and  concluded  they  were  the  French  discovery  ships  under 
Captain  D'Urville. 

Desirous  of  speaking,  and  exchanging  the  usual  and  customary 
compliments  incident  to  naval  life,  I  closed  with  them,  designing  to 
pass  within  hail  under  the  flag-ship's  stern.  When  within  short 
musket-shot,  my  intentions  too  evident  to  excite  a  doubt,  so  far  from  a 
reciprocity  being  evinced,  I  saw,  with  surprise,  sail  made  on  board 
the  flag-ship.  Without  a  moment's  delay,  I  hauled  down  my  colours 
and  bore  upon  my  course. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st,  at  8  A.  M.,  I  found  myself  completely 
embayed  in  an  immense  gulf,  with  a  field  of  table-ice  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  high,  bearing  to  the  northward,  and  from  east  to  west  so  far 
as  eye  could  discern.  After  consuming  the  day  in  trending  to  wind- 
ward, I  passed  out  along  its  eastern  margin  without  accident. 

In  my  progress  and  examinations,  I  obtained  frequent  specimens  of 
sandstone,  granite,  and  red  clay,  from  the  field  and  floe-ice. 

I  gained  the  meridian  of  105°  E.,  on  the  12th  of  February,  latitude 
64°  54'  S. ;  the  weather  was  at  intervals  misty,  affording  little  oppor- 
tunity for  observation ;  many  strong  indications  of  land  presented 
themselves.  The  barrier  assumed  a  dark  discoloured  appearance, 
with  numerous  stratified  veins  of  earth  and  rocks,  and  with  lofty  and 
conical  peaks,  remotely  placed  along  its  southern  portion  ;  the  impres- 
sion of  land,  surrounded  and  covered  by  field-ice,  was  often  strongly 
urged.  Penguins  and  seals  were  seen,  and  in  my  anxiety  to  land  and 
convince  my  mind,  I  was  embayed  in  a  narrow  and  dangerous  inlet, 
which,  with  the  aid  of  a  strong  southeast  wind,  was  cleared  in  safety 
ere  night  closed  in. 

The  wind  easterly  and  the  weather  becoming  clear,  the  occasion 


472  APPENDIX. 

seemed  so  auspicious,  that  I  was  induced  to  extend  rny  researches  a 
day  or  two,  believing  it  would  meet  your  approbation. 

As  I  advanced  westward,  the  marks  of  the  approach  to  land  were 
becoming  too  plain  to  admit  a  doubt.  The  constant  and  increasing 
noise  of  penguins  and  seals,  the  dark  and  discoloured  aspect  of  the 
ocean,  with  frequent  huge  masses  of  black  frozen  earth  identified 
therewith,  strongly  impressed  me  with  the  belief  that  a  positive  result 
would  arise  in  the  event  of  a  possibility  to  advance  a  few  miles 
further  south. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  13th,  I  landed  and  extracted  from  an  im- 
mense mass  of  black  earth  identified  with  the  barrier,  some  hundreds 
of  yards  back  from  the  margin,  specimens  of  rock  corresponding  to 
those  previously  obtained.  At  sunset  of  the  13th,  one  hundred  and 
fifty-one  icebergs,  all  assuming  a  discoloured  and  earthy  appearance, 
were  counted  from  deck. 

At  G  A.  M.  of  the  14th,  the  wind  having  set  in  from  the  northwest,  I 
stood  back  along  the  barrier  on  rny  return,  hauling  in  to  the  south- 
ward, and  making  it  within  the  meridians  of  120°  and  130°  E.,  being 
a  portion  which  escaped  my  personal  observation,  arising  from  incle- 
ment weather. 

I  had  reached  the  meridian  of  100°  07'  40"  E.,  latitude  64°  15'  S. 
I  attempted  to  close  with  the  barrier  on  the  24th,  in  order  to  procure 
a  supply  of  ice,  being  reduced  to  a  half-gallon  allowance  of  water ; 
after  several  unsuccessful  attempts,  owing  to  rough  and  foggy  weather, 
I  concluded  to  proceed  north,  in  conformity  with  my  instructions,  and 
at  2  p.  M.  bore  up  in  a  gale  from  northwest ;  the  wind  prevailing  heavy 
from  that  quarter  gradually  carried  me  near  the  Lord  Auckland  Isles, 
passing  the  last  iceberg  in  latitude  in  55°  24'  S.,  longitude  148°  37'  E. 

I  availed  myself  of  your  suggestion, — put  in  and  anchored  on  the 
night  of  the  7th  of  March  in  the  harbour  of  Sarah's  Bosom.  I  pro- 
cured a  supply  of  wood  and  water,  and  sailed  again  on  the  afternoon 
of  the  10th.  The  sketch  of  the  island  in  my  possession,  though  not 
entirely  correct,  is  sufficiently  so  to  guide  a  vessel  safely  to  the 
anchorage.  I  proceeded  to  this  place,  passing  to  the  eastward  of 
New  Zealand, — strong  northeast  winds  prolonging  the  passage. 

I  spoke  the  American  whale-ship  Mary  and  Martha,  Coffin,  master, 
of  Plymouth,  Massachusetts,  off  Cook's  Straits,  on  the  night  of  the  17th 
instant :  twenty-seven  months  out ;  twenty-two  hundred  barrels  of  oil ; 
reported  at  least  one  hundred  ships  engaged  on  the  east  coast  in  the 
fisheries. 

The  weather  during  the  cruise  has  been  attended  with  great  variety, 


APPENDIX.  473 

and  sudden  transitions.  The  great  anxiety  I  felt  to  attain  a  high 
southern  parallel,  and  obtain  convincing  proofs  of  the  existence  of 
land  from  the  indications  presented,  added  to  the  ardour  of  the  officers 
and  crew,  often  involved  us  in  situations,  alike  interesting,  critical, 
and  dangerous,  attributing  our  escapes  without  injury  to  the  too  plain 
guidance  of  the  watchful  hand  of  Providence. 

Among  the  most  pleasing  reflections  are  those  of  the  perfect  exemp- 
tion from  sickness  and  disease, — not  a  serious  case  occurring  during 
the  whole  period,  and  not  a  symptom  of  incipient  scurvy.  I  have 
avoided  all  unnecessary  exposure,  affording  every  convenience  and 
comfort  to  the  crew,  ever  keeping  in  mind,  and  rigidly  adhering  to, 
your  sanitary  regulations. 

I  cannot  sufficiently  express  the  satisfaction  I  feel  in  reporting  the 
very  exemplary  conduct  of  the  crew;  a  universal  desire  to  perform 
their  several  duties  was  evinced,  from  the  eldest  to  the  youngest.  I 
beg  leave  to  recommend  them  in  the  strongest  terms  to  your  notice 
and  consideration. 

To  the  officers  I  return  my  thanks :  they  were  ever  attentive  and 
unremitting  in  their  duties,  greatly  contributing  to  the  gratifying  and 
safe  termination  of  the  cruise. 

I  feel  great  pleasure  in  speaking  in  high  terms  of  them,  and  feel 
assured  they  will  receive  from  you  the  merit  which  they  deserve. 

The  observations  resulting  from  the  cruise,  together  with  the  currents, 
soundings,  &c.,  are  minutely  and  correctly  placed  upon  the  chart  accom- 
panying, which  indicates  the  track  of  our  researches  along  the  Antarctic 
Circle. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be, 

Very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)      CADWALADER  RINGGOLD, 

Lieut.  Com.  U.  S.  Navy. 

To  CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ., 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


XXXI. 

[Copy.] 
SIR,— 

In  reply  to  your  letter  of  yesterday,  I  have  to  inform  you  that 
Captain  William  Hobson,  R.  N.,  arrived  here  on  the  29th  January, 
ult.,  in  H.  B.  M.  ship  Herald,  and  that  on  the  following  day  the  two 
proclamations  now  enclosed  were  made.  During  the  next  week 


474  APPENDIX. 

meetings  with  some  of  the  chiefs  were  held  by  Captain  Hobson,  when 
the  treaty  (of  which  I  have  forwarded  you  a  copy)  was  signed  by  a 
few  chiefs.  Subsequently  Captain  Hobson  and  suite  visited  Hokianga 
and  the  Thames,  and  obtained  a  few  signatures  at  either  place;  hitherto 
these  are  the  only  proceedings  which  have  taken  place  relative  to  the 
cession  of  any  rights,  by  the  chiefs  of  New  Zealand,  to  the  British 
crown. 

Referring  to  the  above,  the  other  apparent  measures  taken  by  Cap- 
tain Hobson  to  establish  the  British  authority  here  are,  the  holding  a 
court  of  sessions  at  Kororarika,  which  is  in  active  operation,  having  a 
strong  police  force  under  its  control;  the  formation  of  a  General  Post 
for  New  Zealand,  and  the  appointment  of  various  government  officers 
for  New  Zealand,  by  His  Excellency  the  Governor  of  New  South 
Wales. 

It  is,  however,  to  be  remarked,  that  no  laws  relative  to  the  mode  or 
form  of  government  intended  to  be  pursued  in  this  colony,  have  as  yet 
been  published. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be,  &c., 

(Signed)       JAMES  R.  CLENDON, 

U.  S.  Consul. 


PROCLAMATION. 


VICTORIA,  Queen  of  England,  with  her  affectionate  remembrance  to 
the  chiefs  and  tribes  of  New  Zealand,  desires  to  point  out  to  them  their 
chieftainships  in  these  lands ;  and  that  they  may  keep  in  peace  and 
live  in  comfort,  thinks  it  right  to  send  an  English  chief  to  advise  with 
the  natives  of  New  Zealand,  that  they  may  accept  the  government  of 
the  Queen  over  all  their  land  and  islands.  Because  there  will  be 
thousands  of  the  Queen's  subjects  to  reside  in  the  lands,  and  they  are 
coming. 

The  Queen  is  desirous  of  establishing  a  government,  that  all  the 
evils  now  upon  the  natives  from  the  English  living  in  idleness  and 
lawlessness  may  be  removed. 

Now  the  Queen  is  pleased  to  send  me,  William  Hobson,  Captain, 
Royal  Navy,  as  governor  of  all  the  islands  of  New  Zealand,  which 
will  at  another  time  be  given  to  the  Queen. 

The  Queen  says  to  the  collection  of  the  tribes  of  New  Zealand, 
and  all  other  tribes  of  New  Zealand,  these  are  the  laws  that  we  have 
spoken  of. 

First.  That  the  chiefs  at  the  assembly,  and  those  that  were  not  at 


APPENDIX.  475 

the   assembly,  hereby  give   up  entirely  to  the   Queen  for  ever   the 
government  of  all  their  land. 

Secondly.  The  Queen  of  England  agrees  and  consents  to  secure  to 
all  the  tribes,  chiefs,  and  all  men  in  New  Zealand,  and  the  head  chiefs, 
all  their  rights  in  their  lands,  villages,  and  other  property.  But  the 
chiefs  are  to  give  to  the  Queen  the  right  of  purchasing  all  the  lands 
that  the  owners  are  willing  to  sell,  at  the  price  they  choose  to  put  on 
it,  and  the  Queen  says  she  will  pay  for  it  herself. 

Thirdly.  This  is  the  consent  to  the  government  of  the  Queen.  The 
Queen  will  protect  all  the  natives  of  New  Zealand,  and  secure  to  them 
all  the  rights  and  privileges  of  the  people  of  England. 

(Signed)         WILLIAM  HOBSON, 

Consul  and  Lieutenant-Governor. 

We  the  chiefs  at  the  collection  of  the  tribes  of  New  Zealand, 
assembled  at  Waitanga,  are  the  chiefs  of  New  Zealand,  and  see  the 
truth  of  these  words  and  accept  them,  and  therefore  we  put  our  names 
and  marks  thereto. 

Done  at  Waitanga  on  the  6th  day  of  February,  in  the  year  of  our 
Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  forty. 


TRANSLATION  OF  THE  TREATY. 

HER  MAJESTY,  VICTORIA,  Queen  of  England,  in  her  gracious  consi- 
deration for  the  chiefs  and  people  of  New  Zealand,  and  her  desire  to 
preserve  to  them  their  lands  and  to  maintain  peace  and  order  amongst 
them,  has  been  pleased  to  appoint  an  officer  to  treat  with  them  for  the 
cession  of  their  country,  and  of  the  islands  adjacent. 

The  Queen  seeing  that  many  of  Her  Majesty's  subjects  have  already 
settled  in  this  country,  and  are  constantly  arriving,  and  that  it  is  desi- 
rable for  the  protection  of  the  natives  to  establish  a  government 
amongst  them. 

Her  Majesty  has  accordingly  been  pleased  to  appoint  me,  William 
Hobson,  a  Captain  in  the  Royal  Navy,  to  be  governor  of  such  parts  of 
New  Zealand  as  may  be  now  or  hereafter  ceded  to  Her  Majesty,  and 
proposes  to  the  chiefs  of  the  confederation  of  the  united  tribes  of  New 
Zealand,  and  the  other  chiefs,  to  agree  to  the  following  articles : 

Art.  I.  The  chiefs  of  the  confederation  of  the  united  tribes,  and  the 
other  chiefs  who  have  not  joined  the  confederation,  cede  to  the  Queen 
of  England  for  ever  the  entire  sovereignty  of  the  country. 

Art.  II.  The  Queen  of  England   confirms  and   guarantees   to   the 


476  APPENDIX. 

chiefs  and  tribes,  and  to  all  the  people  of  New  Zealand,  the  possession 
of  their  lands,  dwellings,  and  all  their  property.  But  the  chiefs  of  the 
confederation  and  the  other  chiefs  grant  to  the  Queen  the  exclusive 
right  of  purchasing  such  lands  as  the  proprietors  thereof  may  be  dis- 
posed to  sell,  at  such  prices  as  shall  be  agreed  upon  between  them  and 
the  persons  appointed  by  the  Queen  to  purchase  from  them. 

Art.  III.  In  return  for  the  cession  of  the  sovereignty  to  the  Queen, 
the  people  of  New  Zealand  shall  be  protected  by  the  Queen  of 
England,  and  the  rights  and  privileges  of  British  subjects  shall  be 
granted  to  them. 

(Signed)         WILLIAM  HOBSON, 

Consul  and  Lieutenant-Governor. 

Now  we  the  chiefs  of  the  confederation  of  the  united  tribes  of  New 
Zealand,  being  assembled  at  Waitanga,  and  we  the  other  chiefs  of 
New  Zealand  having  understood  the  meaning  of  these  articles,  accept 
of  them  and  agree  to  them  all.  In  witness  whereof  our  names  or 
marks  are  affixed. 

Done  at  Waitanga  the  6th  day  of  February,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord 
one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  forty. 

Here  follow  signatures  of  chiefs. 


END  OF  THE  SECOND  VOLUME. 


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